Post B1jjunzH5Hsr3hfwFk by justinerickson@noauthority.social
(DIR) More posts by justinerickson@noauthority.social
(DIR) Post #B1iHWxkK9qLSV6Z6Su by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T16:48:52Z
1 likes, 1 repeats
I've wanted to put up a fence (and gate) for quite a while, but I've been put-off by the "pick two" aspect of building a "100 year fence".Last night I stumbled on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE-t86b07yMThe posts are oiled cast concrete. One change I'll make is using fiberglass rebar instead of metal.This satisfies "good" and "cheap", but it will take quite some time to cast the near 200 posts I need. I'll have to make a half dozen forms if I want to to be done within the year.
(DIR) Post #B1iJLXmoXFjMi7PePg by RandomDeamon@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:09:13Z
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@eriner I’m not sure this design is worth the time and hassle of making concrete posts. It’s looks to be using metal brackets to attach the wood rails to the posts. At some point that wood is going to breakdown before 100 years. Have you looked into charging the posts before you put them in the ground? This method was used for decades and still works well. Regardless there will always be some kind of maintenance needed for any kind of fence.
(DIR) Post #B1iJyfmKkopin9qWTg by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:16:18Z
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@RandomDeamon A) the wood is not in contact with the ground, and as long as you tilt and/or drill a hole in the joist hanger (which is doable because it’s not load bearing) then rain water won’t be still against the board, therefore regarding the rotting.B) unscrewing the boards and replacing them is a trivial task in the grand scheme of fence repair.
(DIR) Post #B1iKKh9ELNCvPS3aAy by RandomDeamon@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:20:16Z
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@eriner The sun and weather will eat the boards no matter what. The hangers will rust. However, if that’s the way you want to go it would most definitely be better than the old post method.
(DIR) Post #B1iLN78ylKAgZGemI4 by thisisthebreath@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:31:54Z
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@eriner around here there are plenty of 100-year fences built with wood
(DIR) Post #B1iLZ04WsfWa6tF8Ay by sir_rob@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:34:03Z
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@eriner get a used wind turbine blade, could easily get 200 posts out if 1 blade I bet
(DIR) Post #B1iLp4Z7wRo0gDDd9E by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:36:58Z
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@RandomDeamon > The sun and weather will eat the boards no matter what. The hangers will rust.Of course, but the posts should last quite a while and the boards, primarily decorative, should last longer with this installation method than just about any other way they could be installed.I’m not looking to never have to do maintenance ever – if I were I’d spend 20x as much and do it all with wrought iron. I’m looking to minimize the maintenance and total cost while maximizing the visual appeal.
(DIR) Post #B1iM0j6lXtiHbcVgoq by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T17:39:04Z
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@thisisthebreath not around here
(DIR) Post #B1iP3ODFzS3fX0VXO4 by thisisthebreath@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T18:13:10Z
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@eriner well we had better wood back then, esp here in the forest
(DIR) Post #B1iTzp8CSvt1d7GGjA by ThewTheKooky@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T19:08:33Z
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@eriner @RandomDeamon Might look into thishttps://youtu.be/gncCfLg30b8
(DIR) Post #B1iURXCAkDry6wKhRA by SirLibre@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T19:13:32Z
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@eriner I wonder if building holes into your forms for the rails to slide into would be a good idea?It would eliminate the need for brackets, but it would make rail replacement more difficult.Also I wonder if aircrete might be a fun experiment. Less strong but even cheaper and lighter. Might be good for non corner posts.
(DIR) Post #B1iW8hgPj8872ocumG by cjd@pkteerium.xyz
2025-12-28T19:32:26.021817Z
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That was a good video indeed, and I agree about fiberglass rebar. Keep us updated about the progress, I'm curious how it goes...
(DIR) Post #B1iWK6yy0O3ch5kDLs by daniel@campduffel.social
2025-12-28T19:34:35Z
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@eriner This is similar to what I’ve had in mind for my place. We have to install full round 3 rail fence, and even though it looks good for the first 5-10 years, it starts to look pretty bad after that.
(DIR) Post #B1iWR3AAbUW8sMIEVs by CattleBaron@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T19:35:52Z
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@eriner how many miles or feet of fence do you need?. border or just cross fence or both
(DIR) Post #B1iWStyRjuTExIgzho by justinerickson@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T19:36:12Z
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@eriner we had a concrete fence where I grew up and it’s still up today but the top of it crumbled apart where water sat and would freeze and expand. It had to be repaired with a metal cap so that wouldn’t happen anymore. The one thing I would consider doing is making the top of the posts rounded or pointy, or even better would be adding metal caps.
(DIR) Post #B1ij3JTbb7unvQOaIK by rw@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T21:57:14Z
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@eriner why not drill stem pipe driven into the ground?That's what I'm doing.10' stick of 3" pipe driven into the ground until 50" stick out. No digging, no concrete.Just weld a cap on top after to keep water out.I'm doing electric fencing, so I have to something to get insulators into the mix, but you could either weld hangers on for wood or just weld metal cross members.Paint the metal ever 5 years.
(DIR) Post #B1ij5s1Q86qRe3QowC by MountainJay@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T21:57:43Z
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@ThewTheKooky @eriner @RandomDeamon — there are lots of other similar, useful in the comments of that first video. :)
(DIR) Post #B1ilJxj1vBWbIQg1ya by ThewTheKooky@noauthority.social
2025-12-28T22:22:40Z
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@MountainJay @eriner See what you mean@RandomDeamon
(DIR) Post #B1jAulPBBiVcee2Lse by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:09:27Z
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@SirLibre I won’t put in holes for the joist screws, but I planned to put some silicone plugs through the form for a few strands of barbed wire and maybe a tensioned cable through one.Foamed concrete wouldn’t make sense in this application because insulation isn’t relevant.
(DIR) Post #B1jAygCUTrkHfey9L6 by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:10:09Z
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@CattleBaron assuming I do all that I should, around 1600 linear feet.
(DIR) Post #B1jB8O9oQ5IibgLVk8 by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:11:55Z
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@justinerickson yeah, I was planning to fold copper sheet into caps for that reason.
(DIR) Post #B1jBJ1aseNWFoT4vvU by CattleBaron@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:13:50Z
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@eriner what is the purpose of the fence..what critters are you holding in?
(DIR) Post #B1jBbOLgmp8pbBjNse by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:17:09Z
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@CattleBaron dogs for now, though I might put hogs up against parts of it in the future. I plan to mount some fiberglass poles to a total height of 8’ to run fishing line and twine “ornaments” to also hopefully keep deer out.Hedge apples (Osage orange) will be planted on the immediate other side of the fence as well (which is what I would have the hogs butted up against)
(DIR) Post #B1jCfC0qh4jgS3MLqK by EarlThePearls@social.quodverum.com
2025-12-29T03:29:00Z
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@erinerThat's some hard wood@CattleBaron
(DIR) Post #B1jChizB4VgZIKmjXE by CattleBaron@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:29:30Z
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@eriner hogs or dogs means youll have to bury some hog panel or hogwire in the ground.im still trying to get rid of old hogwire..every place used to have some hogs, crap is everywhere and generally tore up. i get a chance i tear it out so i dont have to keep it in repair. barbwire fence so much nicer than hogwire to keep tight and up
(DIR) Post #B1jDHaHotQSujtbViq by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T03:35:59Z
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@CattleBaron I plan to train them to electric fence, which I'll span along the ground on the other side of the fence. So to get out, hogs would have to go through the electric wire, through the hedge apples, and through the fence.
(DIR) Post #B1jjunzH5Hsr3hfwFk by justinerickson@noauthority.social
2025-12-29T09:41:38Z
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@eriner nice. It will patina and look so classic. I dig that style. And I dig things built and designed to last longer than the maker. I tip my hat to you.
(DIR) Post #B1nDAS2nur8LmX1Epc by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-31T01:53:32Z
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I'm going to do some tests, but it looks like I have a few options for molds.I could use wood (with a lot of screwing and unscrewing between pours), but I don't think that will work for the scale I need.I could use silicone, polyurethane, or ABS to make flex-separable molds, but I don't know which is optimal.The plan is to make a few small forms of each and test combinations of materials and release agents to decide what method I'll use to make the final 10-20 molds.
(DIR) Post #B1nDbCrUTKpgVrU81Y by Vo@noauthority.social
2025-12-31T01:58:22Z
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@eriner What about PVC square fencepost? I think they only come in 4"x4" but cut on the diagonals you could ratchet strap together and peel off after. Kinda pricey though for just 6 feet...
(DIR) Post #B1nFVNe1fWda7sXKmO by eriner@noauthority.social
2025-12-31T02:19:44Z
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As to why not the wood+bag method, I don't like the look of the semi-circular folds the bag inevitably imparts.I'm going to test release agents on wood with no plastic sheet/bag in case I'm surprised by something, but I suspect alternative materials will have superior longevity (retained detail after N pours).
(DIR) Post #B1nMgQmF3tUGhpb0xE by Alvin@noauthority.social
2025-12-31T03:40:10Z
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@eriner My first thought was digging in the ground and lined with plastic but you could put wood in loose.
(DIR) Post #B1nMlG2uO5Tms6h2wa by Alvin@noauthority.social
2025-12-31T03:27:21Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@ThewTheKooky @MountainJay @eriner @RandomDeamon I built my Mom a deck in about 94 and put gravel in the bottom and a little up the sides and then did the dry concrete and then mounded it around the base of the post with wet concrete and they look brand new still.