Post AzhsLNj4oESdvGxoQa by anokasion@cawfee.club
(DIR) More posts by anokasion@cawfee.club
(DIR) Post #AzfSHl3F9sGtyx5Wym by anokasion@cawfee.club
2025-10-28T12:21:00.736638Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
Good morning, today it's Tuesday, and I keep getting hardware issues related to different things; you see, I use two monitors, the first one, a HDMI LED from 2 years ago, and a VGA to DVI (via an adapter) LCD from 13 years ago (it was the one my dad used, not a bad monitor believe me). It always worked fine as second monitor, for years. The last time it worked was yesterday night that I decided to use the sleep mode from MX Linux for the first time (instead of shutting down the PC); I got used to not reboot the computer on Linux unless there was a kernel upgrade.This morning, after waking up the computer pressing a key, the second monitor didn't do anything. I tried what I think should be an easy way to know if it's working, disconnect and connect the power cable. Nothing, not even the searching signal or no signal or the little blue light on the power button. I found many results of this problem happening, but not going to sleep mode literally killing the monitor. I don't know what else to do.Now 3 hardware components in some way or another stopped being usable after erasing Windows 11 and going back to Linux. I really wish it would be a skill issue.I also find extremely strange and I doubt it's a coincidence that the last time the monitor worked was before going sleep mode.
(DIR) Post #AzhTtBGP9XziGMZYi8 by Suiseiseki@freesoftwareextremist.com
2025-10-29T11:48:25.481245Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@anokasion Proprietary drivers and proprietary hardware randomly kills itself when it comes to display outputs - only power cycling fixing it.Hardware often decides to die right after you shutdown (sleep mode is the same as shutdown hardware wise - the CPU is shut down, but the memory controller and backdoor are kept online) and when you come back it just fails to turn on.If the monitor isn't turning on with only the power cable attached, it's dead.
(DIR) Post #AzhsLNj4oESdvGxoQa by anokasion@cawfee.club
2025-10-29T16:22:25.806787Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Suiseiseki I bought new power cables, the monitor won't turn on. I was told either to start shutting down the computer when going to sleep at night (I got used for decades to leave it on sleep mode) or buy a power stabilizer + an UPS in case the electricity company sends too much or too low voltage...
(DIR) Post #AzjSf9XL47DZDOA04u by Suiseiseki@freesoftwareextremist.com
2025-10-30T10:44:06.473423Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@anokasion >I bought new power cables, the monitor won't turn on.Generally you would test the power cable on something you know that works, rather than buying a new one (still imagine not having a power cable collection).As the LCD is 13 years old, unfortunately either the power delivery components failed or the monitor software corrupted itself.The former is fixable, but not really worth the time, money and effort - as it takes much less effort to find another used monitor.>I was told either to start shutting down the computer when going to sleep at night (I got used for decades to leave it on sleep mode)Completely garbage recommendation - ACPI S3 and shutdown are the exact same thing as far as the monitor is concerned.ACPI S3 mostly keeps the memory controller and backdoor going - it can't do anything but negligibly reduce how long the power support lasts, as in ACPI S3, the PSU does need to keep delivering a few watts.>buy a power stabilizer + an UPS in case the electricity company sends too much or too low voltage...The whole idea of a UPS is that if the AC waveform exceeds the maximum voltage or is deficit below the minimum voltage, it cuts the connection and makes a cleaner AC waveform from the swaps to the battery - making a power stabilizer completely redundant.In the case where mains delivers really bad quality power, the only way to get clean power is with a DC-DC UPS, which are expensive (if the DC-DC UPS manual says you can't use it with a generator, don't buy it, as it's utter garbage).A cheap power strip with a built-in surge protector will deal with moderate overvoltages just fine - but those only last a few moderate overvoltages and will fail to surge arrest and light on fire if there's a severe overvoltage.
(DIR) Post #Azla1g2PzkTSNkIxXc by anokasion@cawfee.club
2025-10-31T11:15:59.123425Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Suiseiseki I read it all yesterday, but since I didn't reply, I wanted to thank you for your usual help suiseiseki; I'll continue using sleep mode then.I have one more question, as my cousin told me "all SATA disks from the last 5 years are SATA III", how likely is this true? I thought I should be able to check this with smartctl but cannot find the attribute.
(DIR) Post #AzmHAKIkTbdHbPJWgy by EdBoatConnoisseur@poa.st
2025-10-31T19:19:25.978488Z
3 likes, 0 repeats
@anokasion @Suiseiseki can you open the monitor and take pics of the power supply/delivery board? cuz a 13yo LCD display suddenly diying sounds like a blown out capacitor, after 10 years of constant use the first components to go out are going to be the capacitors as every manufacturer for the last 20 years has been cheaping out on them to the point a cap from a 100 capacitors bag for 20 bucks (before shipping) straight from chengdu is still considered higher quality in comparison to the cheap shit manufacturers will use.when you open the display any electrlytic cap that looks like the one on the right IS blown out.
(DIR) Post #AzntIxuD6UEuAKLIxM by Suiseiseki@freesoftwareextremist.com
2025-11-01T14:01:28.642091Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@anokasion It is true that most disks manufactured from 5 years ago, especially SSD's are SATA 3.x - but not all - as SATA 2.0 doesn't even bottleneck most cheap SATA SSDs and old designs would continue to use 2.0, rather than be redesigned to used SATA3.SATA tends to be backwards compatible - so it doesn't really matter if the host or drive is SATA1.1/SATA2/SATA3 - the only exception I'm aware of is drives that re-use a 3.3V pin as a poweroff signal - meaning those drives won't work when plugged into a PC PSU unless you tape over the pin or remove it.>I thought I should be able to check this with smartctl but cannot find the attribute.It does work on my machine;sudo smartctl -a /dev/sda |grep 'SATA Version is:'SATA Version is: SATA 3.3, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 3.0 Gb/s)As you can see, the SP5100 of the KGPE-D16 only does SATA 2.0 - but really it doesn't slow down the drive at all - as even 2 is faster than the drive.Of course that's dependent on the drive reporting the SATA version attributes.
(DIR) Post #AznuiPjMt5DxeoyCoq by Suiseiseki@freesoftwareextremist.com
2025-11-01T14:17:16.755323Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@EdBoatConnoisseur @anokasion Yes, it most likely is just a blown cap, but the difficulty of opening up the display and getting a suitable replacement makes it not worth it.The pictured cap is not blown out - it's just bulging a bit from slight gas release (that cap likely still "works" - although it'd have an ESR totally out of spec - which results in a device working badly or not working at all).A blowout can be a slight pop or a loud explosion, with the outer case totally disintegrating and the inner jelly roll unravelling (you get this surprise if you hot air gun a electrolytic cap for a few seconds by mistake).
(DIR) Post #AznyaoxZbNsRP7FVnE by anokasion@cawfee.club
2025-11-01T15:00:42.188293Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Suiseiseki @EdBoatConnoisseur I'm not used to try to repair some PC parts -or rather, I'm only used trying to repair very very few computer parts, like networking related stuff, cables, switches and some old networking cards (yes I'm old).The monitor I'm trying to replace *should* be cheap to replace, although for now I didn't have luck; although I'm getting used to work and do everything else using a single monitor, I miss a second monitor to have *something* playing, since I don't own a TV.One question though, I still have plugged in both to the power and to the DVI port (although the monitor it's a VGA it connects via an adapter I bough), and by chance I booted up a new distro called KAoS (nevermind the name, it was just because it came with the latest Ladybird and I wanted to try it); the point is that it detected that I had two monitors. I thought the DVI port would shown something is connected, so I tried disconnecting the monitor from the power, and it detected there was no second monitor anymore. I plugged in the monitor to the electricity again, and it recognized it.It's me being ignorant, or if the monitor stopped working it shouldn't be recognized at all, connected or not? About the SSD disks bandwidth (or speed?), I was using the wrong device because I forgot I changed the SATA cables position:$ sudo smartctl -a /dev/sda | grep -i 'SATA'SATA Version is: SATA 3.2, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 6.0 Gb/s)168 SATA_Phy_Error_Count 0x0012 100 100 000 Old_age Always - 0199 SATA_CRC_Error_Count 0x0032 100 100 000 Old_age Always - 0okasion@tictac:~$ sudo smartctl -a /dev/sdb | grep -i 'SATA'SATA Version is: SATA 3.2, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 6.0 Gb/s)It seems both SATA disks have the same bandwidth.Last question, is this 6.0gb/s bandwidth or speed?PS: sharing this picture from when I still had no table to put the monitor on my left (so it was on the right) because it's best one that shows it.Thanks in advance for the replies gentleman.
(DIR) Post #Aznzg5Mw7XuFhLBeGe by Suiseiseki@freesoftwareextremist.com
2025-11-01T15:12:53.276949Z
2 likes, 0 repeats
@anokasion @EdBoatConnoisseur >I plugged in the monitor to the electricity again, and it recognized it. >It's me being ignorant, or if the monitor stopped working it shouldn't be recognized at all, connected or not? Monitors contain an small processor that provide EDID information to tell the video card what resolutions and clocks are supported; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EDID?useskin=monobookIt appears that some of the power delivery circuitry is working, as EDID is working - a bad cap in the panel power circuit would explain why the panel is not getting power.>Last question, is this 6.0gb/s bandwidth or speed?6.0 GB/s is bandwidth.It's ~600 MB/s speed; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sata?useskin=monobook#Comparison_with_other_busesSATA2 is ~300 MB/sSATA1 is 150 MB/s, which is faster than terrible SSD's and doesn't bottleneck cheap SSDs by much.
(DIR) Post #Azo9fhIcbsZOaace1I by EdBoatConnoisseur@poa.st
2025-11-01T17:04:53.111479Z
1 likes, 0 repeats
@Suiseiseki @anokasion nigga i know what a blown off cap is, i used to intentionally detonate caps in highschool.but when it comes to function of devices any cap that is slightly bulging or tastes like dielectric on the top is going to be working out of spec and has to be changed.