Post AmHLKMjpfSK3OCEeki by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
(DIR) More posts by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
(DIR) Post #AmHEi08wcxcmaDIx1M by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-22T23:35:10.512450Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
Hey makers what makes this take on this appearance with PLA?
(DIR) Post #AmHEi0qtzWmomXs3XM by Tfmonkey@merovingian.club
2024-09-22T23:38:29Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@SlicerDicer Are you using glue to get the PLA to stick to the print bed? I prefer PETG personally. You don't need glue and it's less brittle.
(DIR) Post #AmHEvgUYUImHgnwBRA by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-22T23:39:21.307607Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey I’ve never used glue it’s always been fine. This is more about the surface.
(DIR) Post #AmHEvhOD9NIUTPydBg by Tfmonkey@merovingian.club
2024-09-22T23:40:58Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@SlicerDicer Oh, I thought you meant the speckles on the PLA. If you're referring to the layers not adhering smoothly, it's because your temp is too low. you probably changed filament brands and didn't run a test print. It looks like your temp needs to be increased by 5-10 degrees, which should clear up those cracks between the layers.
(DIR) Post #AmHLKMjpfSK3OCEeki by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-23T00:50:10.900997Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey Ahh so it’s too cold. No I didn’t change the filament I changed the thermistor when I broke the 3D printer and had to do all kinds of invasive surgery. You can see my posts on it.https://bikeshed.party/notice/AmEjTQcSGG3NCAMFfc
(DIR) Post #AmHLKNZaZ1iryiRzQO by Tfmonkey@merovingian.club
2024-09-23T00:52:39Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@SlicerDicer print a benchie boat and that will help you dial in your settings.general the filament tells you the temps you should have the printer set to on the label, but sometimes you have to increase the temps by 5-10 degrees if things aren't sticking correctly.
(DIR) Post #AmHMc7X32hKROXHlrc by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-23T01:00:46.107887Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey Yeah I had to put it at 175c and it’s working now. Should be able to go to 220. My thermistor is way off in calibration.
(DIR) Post #AmHMc8G4LJLDeALj2O by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-23T01:01:47.187163Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey
(DIR) Post #AmHMc8t40KX7b6arom by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-23T01:04:00.767000Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey Now I’m at 170c and it is really printing good. That’s a huge offset.
(DIR) Post #AmHMc9Qjz7TJHYLlJI by Tfmonkey@merovingian.club
2024-09-23T01:07:05Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@SlicerDicer good to hear that it's working. The only other thing you can do if raising the temp doesn't work is to slow down the print.
(DIR) Post #AmHSLY9FQlI4kGdQlk by SlicerDicer@bikeshed.party
2024-09-23T01:44:16.875513Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@Tfmonkey I really had no problems printing anything till I broke my printer. I’m not sure how to calibrate the thermistor in the unit. I may have to build a custom firmware for this to make it read the temperature correctly. steinhardt calculations are not hard. If I can adjust that I will need to look. I used a 100k ohm thermistor so I’m confused why it’s showing such a difference in temperature to the original thermistor that got destroyed.
(DIR) Post #AmHSLZ6Rsee5hsKi2q by Tfmonkey@merovingian.club
2024-09-23T02:11:18Z
0 likes, 0 repeats
@SlicerDicer I just use a cheap <$200 printer. If my thermistor broke I would probably just buy a whole new one as an upgrade because FDM printers have come a long way in the last few years, but I don't want to buy a new printer while the one I have works fine.I just recognized the flaws in the print as being indicative of the temp being low. I'm not much of a printer hobbyist. I just print stuff for tabletop RPGs and games.