Post 573133 by phryk@mastodon.social
(DIR) More posts by phryk@mastodon.social
(DIR) Post #569959 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-16T13:30:25Z
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Current mood: Skinning people alive and dragging them through a fucking salt pit.
(DIR) Post #572428 by StuC@social.nasqueron.org
2018-10-16T16:08:01Z
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@phryk what's up?
(DIR) Post #573133 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-16T16:59:06Z
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@StuC Fucking bike is literally falling apart even though I've literally spent more time repairing than riding it.Now I have to replace the whole thing with the two little gears in the rear as well as the front-wheel and should probably replace the chain and most screws while I'm at it.The frame seems pretty good, but it only survived because of the coating, not because of any care it received and most everything else is fucked to some degree.
(DIR) Post #574456 by rawsta@mastodon.xyz
2018-10-16T18:28:26Z
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@phryk@StuCAt this condition, wouldn't it be more efficient to get a better used mtb instead? There's a bike-guy at Hawerkamp. He's left of the fence to the old wz. Right next to the fusion club. He should have a good bike for a fair price.
(DIR) Post #589631 by StuC@social.nasqueron.org
2018-10-16T19:54:09Z
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@rawsta @phryk rawsta's idea might be the way forward, I'm not sure how much is your frustration and how much the bike being knackered.If it is just the guide and tensioner wheels on the rear changer plus chain you are unlikely to get a used bike for that money. Other stuff, like the Cup and ball bearings can last for decades and probably just need taking apart, regreasing and putting back together.If you need help or tools, let me know.
(DIR) Post #589632 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-17T10:18:18Z
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@StuC Nah, that'll give me a worse frame and some other mostly used up components.Pretty sure it's better and cheaper to salvage it, but it's still really fucking frustrating when the thing doesn't even hold together.Worst case would probably be having to replace the whole crankset on top of everything I listed - but I don't think anything else can be broken for the simple reason that I already repaired, put in maintenance work or replaced everything else.@rawsta
(DIR) Post #595325 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-17T11:50:04Z
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@StuC The front wheel has too much wiggle, to the point that with new brake pads it's always dragging on one or the other pad (until the pads have been ground down enough). Fixing this might be possible without replacing, but would include redoing the spokes I think.The rear changer is completely busted by the previous owner.From the "repairs" he implemented I can tell that he either had no fucking clue whatsoever or wanted to make the bike look less broken than it actually was.@rawsta
(DIR) Post #595558 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-17T11:54:31Z
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@StuC The crankset has a bit much wiggle as well, but not to a problematic degree yet.@rawsta
(DIR) Post #602885 by StuC@social.nasqueron.org
2018-10-17T19:29:33Z
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@phryk not clear if you are using wiggle in two different contexts. Ie. Does not run true, because...1. Bent.2. Play in the bearings.2. Is easy to fix.1. Can often be fixed by retensioning spokes. Time consuming, but not really hard if not very bent.@rawsta
(DIR) Post #603692 by phryk@mastodon.social
2018-10-17T20:15:01Z
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@StuC It's 2, but don't I have to remove all spokes to get to the bearing of the front wheel?@rawsta
(DIR) Post #603766 by StuC@social.nasqueron.org
2018-10-17T20:20:09Z
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@phryk nopehttps://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment@rawsta