Post B6dByouFab1b7ku87k by breizh@pleroma.breizh.pm
(DIR) More posts by breizh@pleroma.breizh.pm
(DIR) Post #B6ZFDAFqXIKecRhIsC by lanodan@queer.hacktivis.me
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@madcollector Similar kind of flowchart:How to measure things like a Canadian.png
(DIR) Post #B6ZSEmJLpL2eLKR84W by mirabilos@toot.mirbsd.org
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@madcollector you have a chance at improving it…
(DIR) Post #B6ZyqTh2h2nY8cXRkO by Zahadoom@noauthority.social
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@lanodan @madcollector I've lived this as well, and it's fucking hilarious to watch it observed from outside. Canada is honestly a fucked up place.
(DIR) Post #B6Zyx3xSm4MMLhMJzE by lanodan@queer.hacktivis.me
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@Zahadoom @madcollector Yeah, always fun when my Canadian friends tell me about it ^^
(DIR) Post #B6aAVvWHEteHoCTCGO by erik@mastodon.infrageeks.social
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@madcollector Yup. That's the way it is. Worse, a habit shared with the US about woodworking and construction: measurements are expressed in inches, but the numbers do not represent current reality. A 2"x4" board is actually 1.5"x3.5" 🤷♂️https://roofobservations.com/lumber-dimensions-nominal-actual/
(DIR) Post #B6aAVvtfpuMcylPsjQ by badtux@mastodon.social
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@erik @madcollector This is why Europe doesn't build wood frame buildings like we do. They learned that a 2x4 was not, in fact, 50mm x 100mm, and staggered off muttering about deranged colonials.
(DIR) Post #B6aAVwAKpxgvoRDBhY by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@badtux @erik @madcollector but we do use inch pipes for plumbing and those are also misnamed
(DIR) Post #B6d4LKSa9e4TiwBWMa by asl@mastodon.launay.org
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@wolf480pl @badtux @erik @madcollector That is correct... 20/27, 26/34 and other... I hate plumbery. Electricity is so efficient in comparison.
(DIR) Post #B6d51fErI3p4KWx7ui by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@asleverybody likes electricity until they show their schematic on a forum and an old-timer asks "how do you implement protection against electric shock under fault conditions?"@badtux @erik @madcollector
(DIR) Post #B6d5puqTXTn7DFVeW8 by asl@mastodon.launay.org
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@wolf480pl @badtux @erik @madcollector Not in France in domestic electricity. There is a very strict norm existing (NFC 15-100), and if you follow it -- which is mostly easy -- there are no problem to enjoy.And if an old timer wants me to upgrade my breakers for the new shiny things with arc-protection, I'd be very glad to do it if they offer me the replacements parts :)
(DIR) Post #B6d8DBQeFRc1DKeSSe by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@aslcan you download the norm without paying? case if you can, that's very cool indeed!Anyway, the case where this kinda stuff shows up is usually when someone tries to do something non-standard, like powering part of their house through a UPS, or sth.If all you need is light and outlet circuits powered from a single source, there's not much room for design decisions anyway...
(DIR) Post #B6d8QSuCa7GTBJoBHs by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@aslalso, since I was makng a hidden reference to elektroda.pl: they don't want you to buy fancier gear, they usually just say "you clearly have no idea what you're doing and nobody is going to teach you through the forum, just hire a qualified electrician", completely ignoring the fact that qualified electricians are a) hard to find, and b) rarely do things by the book
(DIR) Post #B6d9VYGKBzALCJ94gS by asl@mastodon.launay.org
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@wolf480pl Ah, understood. Here they do not have much a choice (for new installations and/or big, big rework), there is a job named a "Consuel", which audt the electrical parts post-installation, before allowing you to be correctly connected to the network.Of course, and unfortunately from my PoV, they only come for new install. I think there should be an audit at least when an asset is sold, to check whatever modifications have been done post-install, /and/ to check the (absence of) conformity to newer norms.For the norm, no, it of course cost money, but as it's a norm, it's not really readable anyway, and thus we have quite a few good books that explain what you have to do to follow it correctly.And I also confirm that most pro electricians take a few liberty with the norm when it means 15 minutes less work for them... Like switches. For the most part, our switches are connected only on the Live wire, there's no Neutral inside switches boxes. If you want to add any kind of domotic, or even a simple light indicating "yes there's light outside", you can't without adding the wire yourself.
(DIR) Post #B6dBb3AauEH0PbDMxM by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@asl > not running neutral to switch boxesthat's pretty benignhere they sign the papers that they measured fault loop impedance, ground electrode impedance, and insulation resistance, without actually measuring anything
(DIR) Post #B6dByouFab1b7ku87k by breizh@pleroma.breizh.pm
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@wolf480pl @asl We can’t, but there is a big manufacturer that maintain a guide for it, and is easier to read.It’s probably not perfect, but it’s really great to have sometimes.https://assets.legrand.com/editorial/legrandfr/outils/documentations-et-guides/legrand-guide-norme-nf-c-15-100.pdf
(DIR) Post #B6dBypMFuTQUWc0Um8 by breizh@pleroma.breizh.pm
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@wolf480pl @asl (of course, they also explain how their own products can be used, but… I think that’s fair, and that other manufacturer should do the same, until we can have the original spec for free (but even then, this kind of guide is still easier to read)).
(DIR) Post #B6dBypiaZRI5dsSKaO by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@breizh @asl do they mention anything beyond overcurrent breaker, RCD, RCBO? Cause these are pretty standardized so it doesn't really matter which manufacturer's one is used as an example