Post B6Qk98EZSGzDLn1DJA by quad@akko.quad.moe
(DIR) More posts by quad@akko.quad.moe
(DIR) Post #B6Q7lOoCNnQFY0wJbE by quad@akko.quad.moe
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I love the ebike so far, but man, 250W motor with a rock bottom Nm rating is so utterly useless when tackling any mediocre incline.Even at a 30 degree incline I have to gear all the way down to the bottom and snail my way up at like 7 km/h.And if I encounter a 45 degree slope, I'm going into first gear and still feel like I'm doing most of the pull up the hill
(DIR) Post #B6Q92C6swtx32aFiQy by michal@toot.kottman.xyz
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@quad My ebike does all of that and additionally likes to turn itself off mid-hill due to overheat protection :)
(DIR) Post #B6Q92CIEGj1dblYm7E by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@michal I haven't had mine overheat on me. But I also live in Norway, so I suspect that helps a bit.I'm just spoiled from having a 500W nominal 2000W peak kickscooter I guess.
(DIR) Post #B6QA26ir50nQHlXESu by michal@toot.kottman.xyz
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@quad https://victripebike-eu.com/blogs/news-eu/eu-ebike-laws-explained-speed-limits-power-rules-age-requirements 250w 25km/h only-when-pedaling seems to be the legal limit for "no license plate required" vehicle around my part of the world
(DIR) Post #B6QA26zs3kPJ8XUozI by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@michal Norway have separate regulations for ebikes and "small electric vehicles".E-bikes are max 25 km/h and 250W engine.Small electric vehicles are 20 km/h, no engine limit. (Plus size/weight limits to define "small")If an electric vehicle doesn't fit in either of those, it's a moped, and in practice, illegal. Because Norway requires mopeds to go trough certification just like cars (which no vehicles besides actual mopeds bother doing).I like the E-bike because the added cargo capacity and ability to go faster than 20 km/h by pedaling is great. However the 250W limit is just absolutely useless up most hills. I've heard drive units with higher torque ratings are much better, but I'm still doubtful 250W is anywhere near enough for western Norway.
(DIR) Post #B6QATMO2wqJsgcnTf6 by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@michal Of course, ebikes also have the only-when-pedaling requirement. Because we follow the same rules as the EU for ebikes.But electric kickscooters, and other small electric vehicles like those "hoverboards" or electric skateboards are not subject to the engine power and pedaling requirements, instead they mostly just have a stricter speed limit.
(DIR) Post #B6QZ2LxguzVyP4gkCG by quad@akko.quad.moe
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oh shit, i just realized my e-bike is so cheap that the drive unit isn't even integrated into the frame whatsoever. it's one of those conversion kits which can just slot into a regular bike frame. except they've added a little compartment above the drive unit to house the controller and cables. I'm not entirely sure, but I think it's a BWAx-A.i might be able to just buy a better bafang conversion kit down the line and upgrade it myself.
(DIR) Post #B6QiRJkdApCSNGYfsu by quad@akko.quad.moe
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totally theoretical question, totally.but if i HYPOTHETICALLY replaced the 36V battery pack with a 48V one, would the crappy bewo motor do any better?i mean any explosion risk would be in the battery pack, so worst case i assume i just kill the drive unit?
(DIR) Post #B6QjrwKkRmWrWFi5wG by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@quad I'm not an electrician, can't give you advice, only my best understanding if treating it as a high school physics task:AFAIK the most likely way this could damage the battery is if the motor gets shorted somehow, or otherwise pulls too much current. So the first thing to do would be to have a fuse is at or below the *battery's* max rated current.The second question is, what's the max rated current of the *motor*. If you want to save the motor, the fuse needs to be lower than this, too
(DIR) Post #B6Qk98EZSGzDLn1DJA by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@wolf480pl bah the motor is utter shite and only rated for 9A
(DIR) Post #B6QkPjD3kSBuf5E2JU by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@quad so now the question is, do you want more max rpm, or do you want more torque.If you want more torque, and don't mind melting the motor, you could in theory operate it above its rated current for a limited time.How to get it to pull more current will AFAIK depend on whether it's a brushed DC or "brushless DC" (actually AC) motor, and on the control circuit around it.If you want more max rpm, that'll also depend on the type of motor and control circuit.
(DIR) Post #B6QkdfKixPhCh3SMDI by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@wolf480pl In theory the motor should do this on its own and already does.After all EU regulations won't let it do more than 250W continuous anyways. It can only peak above that.Pretty sure there's a little controller box in the metal box on the frame. If anything gets fried first, I'd bet it'd be that guy.The chinese specs are ass, but it says "non-brush"
(DIR) Post #B6QmY3lnOCeMeYZcSO by wolf480pl@mstdn.io
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@quad so that means it's an AC motor powered by an inverter circuit that controls the frequency, and possibly also current or voltage, of the "sine" wave that powers the motor.I don't know enough about these control circuits to know how they affect the motor's current draw.
(DIR) Post #B6QmoPqp3nAjlmix4S by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@wolf480pl oh well, if i end up doing it it'll be a project for later anyways.it's just that i hate both the motor and the battery (both capacity and charge speed) in this bike.But it's kind of a chicken and egg problem, because if I upgrade the motor first, I'd get a proper 48V one, because 36V systems suck. At the same time I'd prefer to not spend money on a new battery only to get another 36V one.But upgrading both the drive unit and the battery to a 48V system would be expensive af
(DIR) Post #B6QxU5uqZG8Ne87Qu0 by fedops@fosstodon.org
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@quad more likely the ESC will go first.
(DIR) Post #B6QxU66tqRm8FVl3gm by quad@akko.quad.moe
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@fedops makes sense