[HN Gopher] Food Grammar: Unspoken rules of cuisine
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       Food Grammar: Unspoken rules of cuisine
        
       Author : pseudolus
       Score  : 74 points
       Date   : 2021-01-31 12:14 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.atlasobscura.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.atlasobscura.com)
        
       | hirundo wrote:
       | About 300 million McDonald's Fillet-O-Fish sandwiches, "topped
       | with melty American cheese," are sold each year. I offer this as
       | proof that cheese-on-fish does _not_ violate the American food
       | grammar, just the {haute cuisine,foodie} American food grammar, a
       | very different thing. Just because _they_ say  "ain't" ain't
       | right don't mean ain't ain't right.
        
         | Spivak wrote:
         | I think you're thinking about rules too much like a programmer
         | in that they are something absolute rather than the rules _of
         | thumb_ that they actually are. Fillet-o-fish (and fish-sticks
         | in general) are an exceptional dish in American cuisine that is
         | akin to an irregular verb.
         | 
         | It doesn't matter if the individual dish itself is popular but
         | that the paring it rare among the different types of dishes in
         | American cuisine. Just because an irregular verb is commonly
         | used doesn't mean it's not still irregular.
        
           | TeMPOraL wrote:
           | > _Fillet-o-fish (and fish-sticks in general) are an
           | exceptional dish in American cuisine that is akin to an
           | irregular verb._
           | 
           | Ironically, irregular verbs get regularized over time as the
           | language evolves (hell, I saw some paper the other day that
           | attempted to compute half-life of irregular verbs in English;
           | can't find it now) - but in case of food, I fully expect the
           | opposite to happen; that is, cheese-on-fish will become
           | normalized. McDonald's is the vanguard of the universal
           | culture - whatever stuff it sells everywhere is here to stay.
        
           | hirundo wrote:
           | An irregular verb is not ungrammatical. It just follows an
           | exceptional rule of conjugation. Same with a fish sandwich
           | with cheese.
        
             | Spivak wrote:
             | Fair enough. I consider these to be spiritually equivalent
             | since any ungrammatical form can be made grammatical with
             | the addition of a new rule.
        
         | [deleted]
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | technothrasher wrote:
       | _Offer an American a hamburger patty coated in thick demi-glace,
       | and they'll likely raise an eyebrow at this common Japanese
       | staple dubbed hambagoo._
       | 
       | But I'm an American, and that immediately sounds pretty good to
       | me. Like a little Japanese meatloaf. The only "grammar" problem I
       | see there is that I suspect the word is hambagu.
        
         | quicklime wrote:
         | One of the mistakes that many gaijin make (myself included) is
         | to assume that katakana words are always loan words from
         | _their_ home country.  "Hambagoo" is the Japanese take on a
         | Hamburg steak, not an American hamburger.
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamburg_steak
        
       | icefrakker wrote:
       | What this article partly talks about is one of the reasons I
       | think "cultural appropriation" is such a silly and offensive
       | concept, an indication of the intellectual bankruptcy of the
       | American left when it comes to things like multiculturalism and
       | race.
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | klyrs wrote:
       | In my life, I've made a commitment to combining foods that break
       | the grammars that I've been exposed to. Much of the time, I've
       | enjoyed (pear compote on steak!) or at least tolerated (hot dog,
       | peanut butter and banana? Only whilst camping) the results.
       | However: _never mix strawberries and shrimp_. It wasn 't my idea,
       | but I did execute on the suggestion.
        
         | mhh__ wrote:
         | One of the worst things ever featured on the UK version of
         | Kitchen Nightmares was someone who was serving up chocolate and
         | prawn smoothies in sunny spain...
        
           | silicon2401 wrote:
           | Just watched that and was about to comment the same. I wish
           | there was some kind of quantification to this stuff, or at
           | least a subjective graph demonstrating the different aspects
           | of foods and which ones are complementary: flavor, texture,
           | color, smell, etc. if we had this kind of quantified space to
           | explore, i think we could programmatically find some bizarre
           | combinations that taste amazing
        
             | mhh__ wrote:
             | I don't think there's as much science to it as he implies
             | but this is how heston blumenthal cooks.
             | 
             | I genuinely can't find the book (it's not modernist
             | cuisine) but he recommended a book which is sort of part
             | chemistry textbook part cookbook.
        
               | euoia wrote:
               | I think you are talking about to "On Food and Cooking" by
               | Harold McGee. It is a very good book and I do refer to my
               | copy from time to time.
        
             | RobertKerans wrote:
             | Flavour thesaurus is very good, if quite small relative to
             | what I think you want (or I might be projecting -- it's
             | what I want). Would be a good start for seeding the graph
             | anyway, it's a great book.
             | 
             | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Flavour_Thesaurus?wprov=s
             | f...
        
           | _jal wrote:
           | A high-school friend once made a chicken milkshake.
           | 
           | Pot may have been involved.
        
         | yawnxyz wrote:
         | try peanut butter, banana, sriracha over greek yogurt with
         | granola... sounds weird, but I eat it for breakfast all the
         | time
         | 
         | One day I decided to make a cobbler with thanksgiving
         | leftovers... turning it into a "shepherds pie" thing but as a
         | turkey cobbler.. that thing was delicious.
         | 
         | I love taking and combining familiar concepts in unfamiliar
         | ways... it's at least one way to pass time during the
         | pandemic...
        
           | klyrs wrote:
           | > One day I decided to make a cobbler with thanksgiving
           | leftovers...
           | 
           | Marvelous. I did an "all-in-one" dish for a winter potluck
           | one year. Ham, cranberries, and (a few) brussels sprouts, in
           | a base of potatos au gratin. It got a few weird looks, but
           | there were no leftovers.
        
         | CapitalistCartr wrote:
         | Yeah, don't do orange juice on cereal, either.
        
           | madcaptenor wrote:
           | Of course cookies can be dunked in milk. Once on a plane,
           | sometime around her first birthday IIRC, my daughter tried
           | dunking Biscoff in Diet Coke. I was so proud of her because
           | clearly she was a culinary genius! Until I tried it.
        
           | blendergeek wrote:
           | I LOVE orange juice on Wheat Chex. So, I don't think this
           | warning applies to me.
        
           | kazinator wrote:
           | Rooibos tea works on some cereals. You can think of that as a
           | sort of North American hipster version of chazuke.
        
         | yomly wrote:
         | Wow I was with you until strawberry and shrimp.
         | 
         | Korean marinades use pears for kalbi iirc.
         | 
         | PB on a hot dog isn't crazy tho the addition of banana is
         | slightly more odd.
         | 
         | But my god. Strawberry and shrimp. Especially that very rich
         | full bodied shrimp would be awful with strawberry! Gross!
         | 
         | And yet the brain is ticking, if you chose sweeter prawns that
         | were very fresh and steamed them, I could see them going with
         | milder raw strawberries. At least not contradicting them. Maybe
         | some balsamic can bridge the two.
        
           | klyrs wrote:
           | > And yet the brain is ticking...
           | 
           | Well met, friend! After writing that, I started reconsidering
           | how it could be done. I arrived at a sibling comment's
           | observation, that ceviche could be a better approach. Not so
           | far from the balsamic! Onion in the ceviche may help (on
           | second thought, it might be another strike against the
           | strawberries). But no, the original incident was a grilled
           | skewer -- yikes.
           | 
           | One flavor that I've found to be a a very flexible "strange
           | bridge" is mustard. But... ye gods... that'd only turn the
           | retch up to 11.
        
           | burke wrote:
           | Riffing on ceviche seems like a plausible path to something
           | edible.
        
             | monocasa wrote:
             | Yeah, I was about to say, I've had mango salsa ceviche that
             | was pretty killer. Strawberry isn't a leap.
        
           | yawnxyz wrote:
           | shrimp is usually combined with lemon, or that radish stuff
           | right?
           | 
           | yeah I'd definitely try balsamic, or maybe sour apples, or
           | orange marmalade? Shrimp, mayo, apple is definitely a thing
           | right? Is the cream part required? What about a citrusy
           | balsamic shrimp banana crepe, with a light sugar dusting? ok
           | weird but I'd love to try it
        
         | jimmaswell wrote:
         | I once browned some ground beef and cookie dough together and
         | thoroughly enjoyed it.
        
         | yesenadam wrote:
         | Maybe HN could apply itself to finding solutions to George
         | Hart's _Incompatible Food Triad_. (George is father to maths
         | /art youtube superstar Vi Hart and himself an amazing
         | maths/artist.)
         | 
         |  _After twenty-five years of thinking about this problem I
         | decided to write a web page about it. Here is the problem:_
         | 
         |  _Can you find three foods such that all three do not go
         | together (by any reasonable definition of foods "going
         | together") but every pair of them does go together?_
         | 
         | The page is extremely funny, but also serious - my favourite
         | combination.
         | 
         | http://www.georgehart.com/triad.html
        
           | klyrs wrote:
           | Indeed, the pb/hotdog/banana experiment was performed with
           | this problem in mind. Though, nobody thinks that banana and
           | hotdog is worth considering... until you roast the banana...
           | (and, yeah, still questionable)
        
           | curiousllama wrote:
           | > That this thought experiment merits a web page is really
           | quite astounding. That I decided to write you an e-mail
           | telling you that is even more astounding. And that I don't
           | drink myself stupid following this exchange will be the most
           | astounding non-event in the history of mankind. I am baffled,
           | shattered, and destroyed by the mind-numbing pointlessness of
           | The Incompatible Food Triad experiment. It makes me ill. I
           | promise you, sir, I will never again be the same after
           | witnessing the sheer mind-blowing uselessness of that puzzle.
           | My life as I know it, is over. I once was lost, but then I
           | was found, and then I found your website linked to Wikipedia
           | and now I am lost again, irretrievably lost in a dark maze, a
           | pitch dark maze with the Minotaur of Bafflement hunting me
           | down. I shall not escape him, I shall not escape my doom. No,
           | good sir, instead I fall - far and away, even from myself I
           | fall until I slam forcefully into the cold steel floor of my
           | own mind, crippled and alone, dead to all sensation. I am
           | gone, sir, and I shall never return.
           | 
           | Loved the page, myself.
        
           | babelfish wrote:
           | This deserves it's own post
        
         | InitialLastName wrote:
         | Nobody ever accepted me putting chocolate chips in my tuna
         | subs.
        
         | wirrbel wrote:
         | French fries with vanilla ice cream is somewhat popular in
         | Germany.
        
           | babelfish wrote:
           | It is in the United States too - mostly vanilla milkshakes,
           | though (Wendy's frosty, In-N-Out shake, etc)
        
       | jimbokun wrote:
       | This is why I don't like "fusion" dishes.
       | 
       | When I'm exploring new cuisines, I want to learn the grammar of
       | that culture and how they put food together. I find those
       | traditional dishes that have evolved over a long period of time
       | to have flavors that complement each other very well. And also
       | like imagining the experience of people from that culture.
       | 
       | And I know others enjoy something new and innovative that hasn't
       | been done before, and that's OK, too.
        
         | GuB-42 wrote:
         | A lot of "traditional" dishes are not that old.
         | 
         | Japanese Ramen is my favorite example. Inspired by Chinese
         | noodles, it is only about a century old, and it really took off
         | during WW2. A sign of it not being of Japanese tradition is the
         | fact it is most often written in katakana (ramen).
         | 
         | The fact it is not traditional is actually a strength. While
         | more traditional Japanese food like sushi or tempura is highly
         | codified, Ramen shops are free to do as they please, which
         | result in a great deal of variety. There is no "one true
         | Ramen".
        
           | lhorie wrote:
           | Fun fact: tempura are actually of portuguese origin. And
           | california rolls are, as the name suggest, from California.
           | Another japanese staple that has a weird history is curry: it
           | mimics the _british_ curry, rather than the indian/thai
           | varieties.
        
         | OnlyOneCannolo wrote:
         | Where do you draw the line? At the Columbian Exchange?
        
           | retrac wrote:
           | A valid question. When my mother was growing up, pizza was
           | considered a somewhat exotic Italian-American import.
        
         | AmericanChopper wrote:
         | Depending on your perspective, all food is "fusion". If you
         | take any dish, it's always going to be a fusion of different
         | cultural, and trade, and climate, and agricultural...
         | influences. Today's perspective on "traditional" could be
         | yesterdays tradition-defying modern innovation. You find (with
         | very few exceptions) that it's vary hard to define what a dish
         | actually is. There's no such thing as a "correct" Laksa recipe
         | for instance, so if you want to understand what it is, you have
         | to investigate how different people make it differently, and
         | how that's changed over time. Where you draw the line of
         | "traditional" is mostly rather arbitrary.
        
         | lhorie wrote:
         | I like fusion cuisine: it tends to be endemic of places with
         | lots of immigration and it's part of the character of these
         | cities.
         | 
         | What I think you're referring to is the idea of authenticity,
         | which I think is illustrated well by looking at how different
         | cultures barbecue. The "classic" american barbecue features
         | harburgers and hotdog sausages in bread, brazilian barbecue
         | offers a large variety of cuts of meats along with an extensive
         | salad buffet, and chinese barbecue might get you duck to go
         | with rice.
        
       | dekhn wrote:
       | I love this idea and want to expand on it. I personally think of
       | all cuisines in the worlds as points within a large embedding-
       | "recipe space". Every recipe is a graph of nodes representing
       | items, and edges representing actions ("take sugar and flour and
       | mix in a bowl"). Out of this whole space, different cultures have
       | explored various areas but we've ended up with a number of very
       | similar approaches, such as:
       | 
       | flatbreads. a wide range of cultures/cuisines use a flatbread as
       | a starch structural vehicle (tortilla, dumpling wrappers)
       | combined with a protein/fat interior (cheese, dumplings,
       | whatever). This pattern shows up over and over and suggests a
       | wide range of new fusion approaches ("world wrapps" is an example
       | of prior art).
       | 
       | Once you've cooked across enough cuisines you'll see people have
       | rediscovered a number of techniques (quick fermentation, drying,
       | evaporating) to get rich flavors quickly.
       | 
       | There's a side comment in one my cookbooks (Sauces) which dives
       | into salsa- which means "sauce" but most people think of it as a
       | condiment. It points out that if you think of salsa as fresh
       | sauces it opens up a whole new world of saucing opportunities.
       | 
       | Building the latent space for recipes would mean taking every
       | recipe in the world, encoding it, and generating an embedding;
       | with the result, you could easily create fusion food by casting
       | vectors between two cuisines and sampling points between them.
        
       | madcaptenor wrote:
       | Eggs are breakfast food.
        
         | yawnxyz wrote:
         | eggs are a food fit for every meal... does that mean every meal
         | is breakfast?
        
         | dsr_ wrote:
         | Eggs hold things together. Cake, enriched breads, sauces,
         | breading on your fried foods...
        
       | polygotdomain wrote:
       | While I've never heard it expressed that as "food grammar",
       | there's definitely a context that tends to get lost with cuisines
       | from another culture. Interestingly enough, that context tends to
       | get "filled in" with their local vernacular.
       | 
       | When done well, it can result in some really interesting fusion
       | cuisine and dining experiences. That's not always the case
       | though, and I'm reminded of an experience I had in Rome ordering
       | a cheese burger in a quasi-Irish pub, and getting a dry puck of
       | ground beef with a cold thick slice of fresh mozzarella on top.
       | Not really what I was hoping for.
        
       | pmontra wrote:
       | > fish is often perched on risotto
       | 
       | As Italian I confirm that this is The Horror, really. And yet I
       | can have a Spanish paella with no problem.
        
         | yesenadam wrote:
         | How about an authentic, traditional paella made with water rats
         | and eels?
         | 
         | " 'The peasants would cook the rice in a frying pan and
         | accompany it with whatever they could find. This would normally
         | be water rats and eels,' explains respected Valencian chef
         | Rafael Vidal in an interview with El Pais. 'These were more
         | like rabbits than the modern sewer rats found in cities' "[0]
         | 
         | It seems these are actually water voles:
         | 
         | "Water vole meat was one of the main ingredients of early
         | paellas, along with eel and butter beans. Novelist Vicente
         | Blasco Ibanez described the Valencia custom of eating water
         | voles in Canas y Barro (1902), a realistic novel about life
         | among the fishermen and peasants near lake Albufera."[1]
         | 
         | [0] https://jbcrocket.medium.com/anyone-for-rat-and-eel-
         | paella-t...
         | 
         | [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paella
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_water_vole
        
         | bonzini wrote:
         | Not entirely true. It's kind of traditional in some places to
         | prepare it with lightly fried lake fish (I am from the Como
         | area). The horror would be parmesan with fish. But it is
         | "small" fish, not a whole bass or trout.
        
           | ryanbrunner wrote:
           | A lot of Italian food rules tend to be more regional than
           | most italians think. Even the classic heretical example of
           | spaghetti and meatballs pretty closely resembles traditional
           | dishes from Abruzzo -
           | https://www.lacucinaitaliana.it/ricetta/primi/spaghetti-
           | alla...
        
       | mikehollinger wrote:
       | There's a pretty good article from the BBC [1] on the "bad
       | grammar" of ordering a marinara pizza with cheese in Italy. It
       | got covered on HN back in 2015. [2] There're some pretty good
       | anecdotes in there if you like this article. :-)
       | 
       | [1] https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-33542392
       | 
       | [2] https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=10026519
        
       | pierrebai wrote:
       | Give this article to someone, taking out every occurence of 'food
       | grammar'. I'll bet they'll guess the missing words are 'eating
       | habits'.
       | 
       | Why invent new words for existing concepts? Most of the times, in
       | my experience, it is done to either appear more intelligent or to
       | stake a new ground and be the self-anointed expert.
       | 
       | What's wrong with eating habits?
        
         | crazygringo wrote:
         | They're different concepts.
         | 
         | Eating habits are, well, just habits. They're what you usually
         | do. But they don't embody notions of right and wrong.
         | 
         | Grammars embody notions of right and wrong. Americans don't
         | avoid eating horses and dogs because it's not part of their
         | habit, they do it because they think it's wrong.
         | 
         | Habits are relatively easy to change. Grammars are not. I think
         | food grammar is a great term.
        
           | roelschroeven wrote:
           | I think 'style' would be a much better name. Grammar
           | describes how to put words together, style describes which
           | combinations are a good idea and which aren't.
        
         | morsch wrote:
         | The article (and the related book[1], written by a linguist)
         | introduce the term to refer to cultural rules around what foods
         | to combine, either at the same time or sequentially.
         | 
         | Eating habits is a very general term. The first 3 google
         | results I got[2][3][4] aren't really related to what the
         | article refers to as food grammar. I'd say referring to habit
         | stresses the individual preference, while referring to a
         | grammar stresses the cultural preference.
         | 
         | I'll say that if the Google results for grammar inside the book
         | are exhaustive, the concept isn't fully developed though. I'd
         | have expected a longer, systematic list of food-grammatical
         | rules.
         | 
         | [1]
         | https://www.google.com/books/edition/_/7BF0AwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gb...
         | 
         | [2]
         | https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/losing_weight/eating_habit...
         | 
         | [3] https://www.healthlinkbc.ca/health-topics/ad1169
         | 
         | [4] https://www.everydayhealth.com/diet-and-nutrition-
         | pictures/b...
        
       | vz8 wrote:
       | Hunched over a bitter + savory hotpot in Nanning, China was both
       | dizzying and delicious. A tour-de-force of sinus-clearing,
       | palate-disorienting goodness.
       | 
       | Boiling roiling fungus and grasses (lemon, bamboo, some things
       | entirely new)
       | 
       | A wordless meal, punctuated by satisfied sighs and appreciative
       | noises
       | 
       | Plates of piled high greens. Mystery broth, mystery guests.
       | 
       | The live entertainment: torchlit, rhythmic caterwauling over a PA
        
       | grawprog wrote:
       | I've never heard those.concepts described as grammar before, but
       | it makes a lot of sense and puts into words well the reason why
       | some food just feels like it doesn't go together.
       | 
       | As far as adapting food goes vs traditional recipes. Personally,
       | I think there's room for both. I really enjoy getting to try food
       | done 'traditonally' but I also enjoy fusions of food, or new
       | rakes on old things or just finding a recipe myself somewhere and
       | changing it up in some way.
       | 
       | Food's great and it's great people keep experimenting, adapting
       | food from other cultures and combining things.
        
         | Djvacto wrote:
         | You can see this in stuff like Chinese-American restaurants, or
         | British-Indian food, but a lot of great food comes from what
         | cooks have to do when using their original recipes/cooking
         | styles in a region with distinct ingredients. I end up
         | accumulating a lot of ingredients that are traditional from
         | international groceries and stuff, but a lot of interesting and
         | tasty dishes come from what you can substitute regarding local
         | produce and ingredients.
        
       | jeromenerf wrote:
       | Grammar was very much a class thing, imposed top-down.
       | 
       | However, one had to wonder how Icelanders came up with the
       | rotten-shark-in-a-clay-pot, french with garlic and snails. It
       | feels like survival tactics turned cuisine grammar.
        
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       (page generated 2021-02-01 23:01 UTC)