        120                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                                    Chapter 8
        
                                 PROJECTILE WEAPONS
        
        PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
        
             Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for 
        years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it 
        or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any 
        danger of apprehension.
        
             They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to 
        force out the spent shell.
        
             There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
        
             First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest 
        in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape.
        
             The trigger is made from galvanized tin.  A slot is punched in the trig
        ger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The 
        trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short 
        length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a 
        cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.
        
             The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through 
        it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass 
        through the hole and rest on the primer.
        
             To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with 
        the thumb of the right hand.  The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the 
        trigger and the thing actually fires.
        
             Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. 
        All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
        
             Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. 
        For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas 
        line. Unfortunately, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the 
        firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider 
        length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel 
        pipe with threads and a cap.
        
             Using this method, you can accommodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. 
        The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accommodates the bullet. The second 
        accommodates its wider powder chamber.
        
             A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to 
        comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.
        
             Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has 
        a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small 
        nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the 
        front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around 
        the trigger and snagged over the other nail.


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             In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it 
        by  hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to 
        where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go 
        off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel 
        does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand.
        
             You should not attempt to register such a gun.
        
                        Pipe Cap--\      Bullet    Tape       Pipe
                                   v       /      /     \      /
                                 |----|   /       v     v      v
                       Nail--\  /   /-|---v-----|---|-|---|---------
                              v ---  - - - - - -|- -|-|- -|- - - - |
                            //---->    |[][]\   |   | |   |        |
                           ^  | |--\   |[][]/   |   | |   |        |
                      Wire/   | |   \-|- - - - -|- -|-|- -|- - - - |
                  Trigger---> | | |---|         |   | |   |     ::::
                             /| |      /--------|---|-|---|--::::--|
        		    / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\
                           |  |-|   /                             \-- Rubber
                           /       /                                  band
                           |      |
                           |      /
                           |      |                            /<---Nail
                           |      |                        |-|/
                           |      |                  /-----|o|-----\    
                           |------|                 | ------------- |     
                                          Place nail||             ||    Nail
                                           here     ||             ||    hole
                   /------------------\       \     ||             ||    /
                  | O        O       O |       ---> ||             || <--
                   \--------| |-------/             ||             ||
                            |-|                     ||             ||
                    Trigger before bending                Trigger 
        
        
        DRY ICE GUN 
        
             Introduction:
        
             In the past, many people have experimented with the power generated by 
        the conversion of dry ice into gaseous carbon dioxide. The most common use 
        that I have seen is the dry ice bomb. The dry ice bomb is easily made by using 
        a two liter plastic bottle, some hot water and some crushed dry ice. To make 
        one, one simply puts about a cup and a half of crushed dry ice into the bot
        tle, adds hot water, caps the bottle and throws it. These bombs are not a 
        joke, and have been known to blow a metal trash can fifteen feet into the air, 
        as well as bursting the bottom of the can. If you make a dry ice bomb, you had 
        best throw it before it explodes due to the enormous force generated by the 
        explosion of the bottle. A  friend of mine waited a bit too long on throwing 
        one, and he jammed three of his fingers badly, got a huge bruise on his left 
        leg, and one of the plastic fragments was propelled with enough force to punc
        ture his tennis shoes and cut his foot all to hell. In short, be careful with 
        these things.


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        122                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        
             One day in May of 1985, an idea was introduced to me by a friend. His 
        plan was to control the force of the expanding dry ice and harness it to a 
        useful end. The result was the dry ice gun. In following these plans, please 
        keep in mind that when dry ice is finished expanding, it can generate pres
        sures of up to 2400 PSI. For this reason, I recommend that when arming the gun 
        and when disarming it, you hold all valves OPEN, and that you wear a pair of 
        protective goggles at all times. I will take no responsibility for injury that 
        occurs because of the content of this file, or through the use of this infor
        mation. This information is intended for educational purposes ONLY.
        
             Materials needed:
        
             The materials required will vary for each gun produced because of the 
        nature of the construction itself and the effect produced by using different 
        parts. The following parts, however, are necessary for a gun with moderate 
        power and range:
        
             1- Standard valve. I recommend the kind that is just a lever and turns 
               1/4 turn to open or close and has 3/4" connectors.
        
             1- Blow gun (These can be found at auto parts stores. Shop around a 
               little and get one with the highest pressure rating you can find 
               (probably 150 PSI)). This will be sometimes referred to as a valve 
               also.
        
             1- Length of hot water PVC piping. This will be used for the barrel. I 
               recommend that you use 3/4" piping, because that is the kind that 
               fits paint pellets of the type used in KILLER best. Note, however, 
               that it is possible to launch anything up to the size of an egg with 
               pleasing results, provided that the barrel is large enough in diame
               ter.
        
             You will also need various lengths of regular lead or steel piping (to 
        construct the actual gun), and adapters to get the blow gun to fit the rest of 
        the gun (blow guns usually have connectors that are 1/4" in diameter, while 
        the rest of the gun (except the dry ice container) should be constructed with 
        3/4" fittings). You will also need an end cap to go on the end of your dry ice 
        container and probably an elbow joint.
        
             Optional parts:
        
             1- Standard valve (same kind as above, but with a shorter lever).
        
             1- "T" joint with 3/4" connectors all around.
        
             1- 6 or 7 inch length of 3/4" diameter pipe.
        
             1- 3/4" end cap.
        
             Form-a-gasket and pipe dope






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             Construction:
        
             Because of the nature of the gun, step-by-step plans are not possible. 
        However, a diagram of the gun will give you an idea of what has to be done, 
        and construction tips should prove enough to allow successful completion of 
        the project.
        
             Diagram:
        
           trigger (part of the blow gun)   standard
           adaptor______________        :    valve
                                \       :        \
                                 :      :         :
          ______________________ :    _ ;    _____:______
         |                      |\__ __|___/|      |     \
         |  barrel              | __|__|__| |   O  |      \
         |______________________|/ / :  :  \|___I__|__     \
               joint B____________/  :  :  :    I     \     \
               blow gun_____________/   :  :    I    / \     \
               pressure chamber________/   :    I   /  |_____|<-joint A
               adaptor____________________/        /   |     |
               elbow joint________________________/   /|     |
               dry ice container_____________________/ |     |
               end cap_______________________________ _|_____|_
                                                     \||     ||
                                                      +-------+
             NOTES:
        
             1- The dry ice container can be any size. The one I use is about 6 
               inches long by 2 inches in diameter. The larger the chamber is, the 
               more shots the gun will fire before reloading is necessary.
        
             2- The elbow joint can be left out. It will only make the gun in the 
               shape of a straight rod rather than a "traditional" gun shape.
        
             3- The barrel length can be any length you like, but very long ones are 
               cumbersome and very short ones don't allow much accuracy. I recommend 
               a length of about 2 1/2 to 3 feet.
        
             4- All joints except the two marked 'A' and 'B' should be tightened as 
               much as possible  and sealed by coating the threads with the form-a-
               gasket and then putting the two pieces together and tightening them 
               as much as possible. If you like, you can also caulk around the 
               finished and tightened joint.
        
             5- The joint marked 'B' should be tight, but DO NOT SEAL IT unless you 
               do not intend to ever use more than one kind of barrel.
        
             6- The joint marked 'A' should not be sealed with form-a-gasket like the 
               others because it is the one that you will be filling the dry ice 
               into the gun through. To fill the gun with dry ice, detach the dry 
               ice chamber pipe from the elbow joint. Load the container with as 
               much crushed dry ice as it will hold. Then, coat the threads of one 
               of the pieces of the joint with pipe dope. This will prevent leakage 
               of the carbon dioxide after it has changed into gaseous form.


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        124                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        
             7- The pressure chamber should be about 1 1/2 inches in length for a 
               fairly powerful gun. The longer the pressure chamber is, the more 
               powerful the gun. On a gun with a three inch pressure chamber, we 
               shot a AA battery 500 (yes, hundred) feet across a parking lot. Such 
               high power, however, is dangerous, and is not recommended for use in 
               games such as  Killer, but rather for target practice (on INANIMATE 
               objects).
        
             How to operate the dry ice gun:
        
             Once you have the dry ice gun built and loaded, the first thing you must 
        do is to open the standard valve and immerse the gun in water. This is to 
        check for leaks. If any leaks are present, they will show up as streams of 
        bubbles rising from the gun. If any are found, tighten the offending joint and 
        put the gun back in the water. When all leaks are gone (if necessary, take the 
        whole thing apart and rebuild it from scratch to eliminate leaks, especially 
        on either end of the pressure chamber), release the pressure built up so far 
        by closing the standard valve and then operating the trigger. You should hear 
        a 'woosh' sound, and the gun should kick slightly. This indicates that all is 
        working properly. When loading the dry ice gun, it is important to keep both 
        valves OPEN until the dry ice container is secure, and then close both valves. 
        Even after you are sure that the gun has no leaks anywhere, it is good to 
        immerse the dry ice container (while it is attached to the gun) in water. This 
        warms the dry ice and causes it to change into gaseous carbon dioxide.
        
             After the dry ice container has been immersed for 5 minutes or so, remove 
        the gun from the water and dry it off. The gun is now ready to be fired.
        
             Firing the dry ice gun:
        
             This is the simplest step of all. To fire the gun, simply place the 
        projectile (I recommend paint pellets) in the barrel of the gun, open the 
        standard valve for about a second and then close it. You should hear a muffled 
        rush of air as some of the gaseous CO2 is bled into the pressure chamber. Aim 
        the gun at who/whatever you wish to hit, and squeeze the trigger. For more 
        power, you can leave the standard valve open and squeeze the trigger.
        
             Disarming the dry ice gun:
        
             To disarm the gun, open both valves until you can no longer hear the 
        pressure escaping through the barrel of the gun. Then, unscrew the dry ice 
        container and place it in cold water for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until all of 
        the remaining dry ice has evaporated. When all of the dry ice is gone, clean 
        the threads on the dry ice container and elbow joint, and store the gun in a 
        clean, dry area.











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             Suggested modifications:
        
             The only really nice modification that I've discovered is to replace the 
        pressure chamber pipe with a "T" joint and valve so  as to make a gun with 
        long, medium, and short range capability. To do this, construct the pressure 
        chamber section of the gun like this:
        
                  ___adaptor                                       I
                 :  ______________________________________ ________I___
         _____ _ :/!                                      !        I
        ___#__!o!/ !                                      !        I
                !  !                                      !        I
                !  !        "T" joint                     !        O
        ________!  !                                      !
        :        \ !                                      !
        :         \!____________             _____________!____________
        :                      !             !                 ^
        :                      !_____________!                 !
        :__blow gun            !______O______!<-standard       standard
                               !      I      !  valve #2       valve #1
                               !      I      !
                               !      I      !<-short length
                              _!______I______!_  of piping
                              !!             !!
                              +---------------+
                   end cap_______/
        
        
             What this does is make a pressure chamber with a variable length. The 
        following chart shows the combinations in which the valves may be used to 
        create different ranges.
        
         RANGE  |  INSTRUCTIONS
        --------+--------------------------------------------------------
         short  | Open valve number 1, hold it open for about a second,
                | close it, and then open valve #2.
        --------+--------------------------------------------------------
         medium | Open valve number 1 for about a second and close it.
                | Leave valve #2 closed.
        --------+--------------------------------------------------------
         long   | Open valve #2 before opening valve #1.  Open valve #1
                | for about a second, then close it.
        --------+--------------------------------------------------------
        
             The trigger can be squeezed at any time following any of the above proce
        dures. 
        
        
        SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
        
             Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social 
        deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over 
        individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to 
        kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows 
        to shotguns.


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        126                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        
             SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
        
             For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive 
        that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This 
        means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
        
                  BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
        
             Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition.  It is ex
        tremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter 
        to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum 
        piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire 
        segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates 
        upon impact, or with a fuse.  
        
             All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and 
        diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube 
        with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to 
        about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and care
        fully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a 
        small hole. Place a no.11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with 
        super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, 
        and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, 
        and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like:
        
             _____
             |   | ----- no. 11 percussion cap
             ||*||
              |*|
              |*|
              |*| ------ aluminum piping
              |*|
              |e|
              |x|
              |p|
              |l|                             tp = tissue paper
              |o|                            epy = epoxy
              |s|
              |i|
              |v|
              |e|
              |*|
              |*|
             /|_|\
            / |t| \
            | |p| |
            | |_| |
            | |e| | ----- fins
            | |p| |
            | |y| |
            |_|_|_|
              |_|
        
        


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             When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap ex
        plodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
        
                       PORTABLE GRENADE LAUNCHER
         
             If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an alumi
        num arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns 
        easy) and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule 
        went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one 
        is nearby. Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!!
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
        
             The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A 
        blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or 
        poisoned projectile.  
        
             The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. 
        Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, 
        such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule 
        could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be 
        re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive 
        charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the 
        larger capsules were used.  
        
             Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a 
        tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to 
        insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a 
        device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel 
        or cotton, and look something like this:
                   ____________________
                  /mercury |           \-----------------------
                 (fulminate|   R.D.X.   )---------------------- } tassels
                  \________|___________/-----------------------
        
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
        
             A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter 
        marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could 
        well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area.  
        
             Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a 
        wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful 
        explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an 
        impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive 
        material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and 
        fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would 
        have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the 
        device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 
        caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make 
        excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a 
        relatively close range, because of their light weight.




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        128                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
        
             When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidi
        ty of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a 
        single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be 
        difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. 
        
             There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the 
        ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet 
        even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will 
        occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNI
        TION.
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
        
             If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her 
        handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive 
        explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, 
        and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in 
        a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an 
        explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the 
        bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed explod
        ing bullet is shown below.
        
                              _o_ ------------ drop of wax
                             /|*|\
                            | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
                            | |_| |
                            |_____|
        
             This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
        
             Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some 
        extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell 
        is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, 
        if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the 
        bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- 
        launched weapons. 
        
             Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the 
        shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end 
        of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explo
        sive or incendiary device is to be used. 
        
             This device can be a chemical fire bottle, a pipe bomb, or a thermite 
        bomb. After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. 
        When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary 
        device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long 
        enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. 
        
             If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible.




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                       ____
                       ||  |
                       ||  |
                       ||  | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
                       ||__|
                       || |
                       || | ------- fuse
                       || |
                       ||
                       || --------- dowel
                       ||
                       ||
                       || --------- insert this end into shotgun
        
        
             SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
        
             This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for com
        pressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, 
        and .22 cal pellet guns.  These weapons, although usually thought of as kids 
        toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
        
             A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or 
        pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber 
        of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a 
        muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. 
        
             Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact 
        detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most 
        ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the 
        powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many 
        people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by 
        the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard 
        surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 
        caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the 
        gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of 
        thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled 
        with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a 
        projectile appears below:
        
               _____ primers _______
              |                    |
              V                    V
             _____                _____ 
            | ________________________ |-------------------
            | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
            | ________________________ |-------------------   cotton
            |_____                _____|-------------------
                      ^
                      |_______ antenna tubing
        




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        130                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The 
        tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. 
        Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to 
        insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile 
        should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
        
                  SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
        
             A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at 
        close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be 
        adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.  A design similar to that used in 
        section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or small
        er. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would 
        have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, 
        since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too 
        small, but anything larger will do nicely.
        








































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