        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                91


                                    Chapter 7
                                 USING EXPLOSIVES
        
             The first step that a person using explosives would take would be to 
        determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be 
        done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would also 
        have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where 
        the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the 
        device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved. 
        Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device. 
        These are some of the topics covered in the next section.
        
        SAFETY
        
             There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.  One can only speak 
        in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
        
        IGNITION DEVICES
        
             There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic 
        "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive 
        mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation 
        systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appro
        priate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detona
        tion system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.  A device with 
        a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
        
             FUSE IGNITION
        
             The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite 
        type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse 
        in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse 
        is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It 
        is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 
        for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers 
        because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or 
        lighter. 
        
             Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses 
        fuse ignition, would be very impractical. If a grenade ignition system can be 
        acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do 
        not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which 
        does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplic
        ity.













                                (c) 1990 
        92                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             One such method is described below:
        
        
             MATERIALS
        
             strike-on-cover type matches
        
             electrical tape or duct tape
        
             waterproof fuse
        
             1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply 
               measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stop
               watch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse 
               lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the 
               time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the 
               fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:
        
                 Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time 
               of combustion is 20 seconds.
        
                           20 seconds
                           8 inches   = 2.5 seconds per inch.
        
                  If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the 
               desired time by the number of seconds per inch:
        
                           10 seconds      
                           2.5 seconds / inch  = 4 inches
        
                  NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. 
               SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD 
               THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!
        
             2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive 
               device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount 
               of fuse, and cut it off.
        
             3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do 
               not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the 
               cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave 
               the other one to make a second igniter.
        
             4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the 
               matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, 
               making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are 
               very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They 
               should not be able to move.
        
             5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the 
               fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and 
               the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly 
               tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the 
               fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for 
               ignition.


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                  _____________________
                  \                   /
                   \                 /  ------ match book cover
                    \               /
                     |    M|f|M ---|------- match head
                     |    A|u|A    |
                     |    T|s|T    |
                     |    C|e|C    |
                     |tapeH|.|Htape|
                     |     |f|     |
                     |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
                     |#####|s|#####|
                     \     |e|     /
                      \    |.|    /
                       \   |f|   /
                        \  |u|  /
                        |ta|s|pe|
                        |ta|e|pe|
                           |.|
                           |f|
                           |u|
                           |s|
                           |e|
                           |.|
                           |_|
        
        
                  The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to 
               itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub 
               against the matchheads when the match book is pulled.
        
             6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the 
               striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light 
               them. In turn, the burning matchheads will light the fuse, since it 
               adjacent to the burning match heads.
        
        
             IMPACT IGNITION
        
             Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous ter
        rorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it 
        must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being 
        transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a 
        removable impact initiator.












                                (c) 1990 
        94                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made 
        initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such 
        primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a 
        cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are 
        also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package 
        of nipples and the caps that fit them.  Nipples have a hole that goes all the 
        way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. 
        A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
                        ________________
                       |                |
                       _                |
                      | |                 |
               _______| |^^^^^^^^|        |
               |      ___________|          |
               |     |                      |
        no. 11       |_______|                |
        percussion    _______                 | <--- threads for screwing
        cap here     |       |                |       nipple onto bomb
               |     |___________           |
               |_______         |           |
                    | |^^^^^^^^^|         |
                    |_|                   |
                                        |
                       |________________|
        
             When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into 
        whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed 
        into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed 
        on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount 
        before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The 
        only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must 
        strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a 
        small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when 
        thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb 
        with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which 
        end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the 
        person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
        
                  MINI-COMPOUND DETONATOR'S 
        
             MATERIALS  
        
              Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum 
                tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These
                tubes must be closed at one end.
        
              A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX  
                (amount depends on how many detonators you intend to    
                 make) or PETN can be substituted here.                  
                                                                
              A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e.        
                Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.                  
                                                                
              An ignition charge of black powder.                     
        


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              A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells)
                (Please be safe considering a few of these detonators may detonate
                 when being compressed, so take the necessary precautions such as
                 safety glasses etc.)
        
             *NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonators to an unsafe level, so 
        when handling the primary, secondary, and ignition charges, use tongs. Also 
        boil a bucket of water in the room as humidity helps, or if your in a house, 
        turn your shower on hot and leave it on!
        
             1) Light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell casing 
               before use. Let the wax cool down.
        
             2) Fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then 
               *GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly 
               and evenly. Remove the ram slowly and carefully.
        
             3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a 
               column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed 
               into the 1 inch shell casing.
        
             4) Add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the 
               secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Add the Mer
               cury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of 
               secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a 
               height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.
        
             5) Compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Seal the top 
               with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
        
                             DIAGRAM
        
                       -   ++++++           Key:
                       |   |@@@@|      @ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)
                       |   |****|      * = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide
                       |   |****|            (Primary Charge)
                       |   |####|      # = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)
           1 INCH------<   |####|      - = Two drops of wax on bottom
                       |   |####|      + = Tape covering top
                       |   |####|      = = Bottom of shell casing
                       |   |####|      | = Sides of .22 Magnum shell
                       |   |----|
                       -   |====|
        
             These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger 
        version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use 
        is for miniature hand grenades and other small explosives.  










                                (c) 1990 
        96                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             CHEMICAL IGNITION
        
                  POTASSIUM CHLORATE/SUGAR IGNITER
        
             This igniter is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by either 
        concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a time 
        delay, which I will detail later.
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Potassium Chlorate          Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon
                                                               etc.)
              Sugar (Granulated)
                                          Storage Container w/tight fitting lid
        
                                          Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
        
                                          Two flat boards (one large 36x36 and the
                                            other small so it can be held in the 
                                            hand).
        
             1) Spread one handful of the potassium chlorate at a time on the large 
               board and rub with the other flatboard or a rolling pin until the 
               particles resemble granulated sugar.
        
             2) Measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then 
               add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container. 
               Recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it 
               has a uniform color and consistency.
        
             3) Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake 
               it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.
        
             For a delayed reaction, place the acid in a gelatin capsule and bury the 
        gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. The delay depends on how 
        many gelatin capsules you use and their size. It can range from 20 minutes to 
        an hour or more. This type of igniter reaches a temperature of 3,200 degrees 
        Fahrenheit and can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be compacted into a 
        pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.



















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                  SULFUR AND ALUMINUM IGNITER
        
             This is more of a secondary igniter for those tough to ignite incendi
        aries such as thermite etc. It is relatively easy to make and safe to handle, 
        so it is an excellent igniter, and it does not lose it's effectiveness quick
        ly.
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        Fine Aluminum Powder              Measuring Container 
                                            (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
        Sulfur
                                          Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
        
                                          Storage Container w/tight fitting lid
                                            (airtight)
        
                                          Two Flat Boards one hand size and the other
                                            36x36 or a big board and a rolling pin
        
             1) Spread the sulfur out on the board and crush into a fine powder 
               (dust).
        
             2) Measure out 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulfur to 1 part by 
               volume of aluminum powder. Mix these two in the mixing container by 
               closing the lid and shaking it up for 4-5 minutes until a uniform 
               color and consistency are achieved.
        
             3) Store the igniter in a waterproof container until ready for use. Also 
               re-shake before use to re-mix and settled particles.
        
             This is mainly used to ignite thermite. Four spoonfuls of this aluminum/ 
        sulfur igniter are added on top of the thermite, and one spoonful of potassium 
        chlorate/sugar igniter is added on top of that.  When the potassium Chlo
        rate/sugar igniter is ignited, it in turn ignites the aluminum/sulfur igniter. 
        This igniter reaches an incredible heat, and should not be watched igniting 
        without dark lensed protective eyewear, as it may cause blindness.
        
        
             ELECTRICAL IGNITION
        
             Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and 
        most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition 
        work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools 
        of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a 
        "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that 
        could get hurt. 
        
             With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device 
        will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less 
        than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, 
        or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. 






                                (c) 1990 
        98                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry 
        igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry ignit
        ers are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need 
        be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. 
        Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since 
        they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters 
        only burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high 
        explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. 
        Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, 
        which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
        
        
             ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
        
             Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of 
        mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of 
        switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person 
        who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it 
        explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed.
        
        
                  MERCURY SWITCHES
        
             Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal 
        conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room 
        temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two elec
        trodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty 
        habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to 
        explain a mercury switch.
        
                                 ______________
                             A  /              \   B
              _____wire +______/___________     \
                               \   ( Hg )  |    /
                                \ _(_Hg_)__|___/
                                           |
                                           |
                                    wire - |
                                           |
                                           |
        
             When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both 
        contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in 
        its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can 
        touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
        
             If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only 
        touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury 
        does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position.








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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                99


             This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the 
        path of a swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of the door would 
        knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This 
        would tilt the switch into the vertical position, causing the mercury to touch 
        both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the ignit
        er or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it 
        slammed in your face by an explosion.
        
                  TRIPWIRE SWITCHES
        
             A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly 
        invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and 
        by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. 
        If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a 
        tripwire to detonate a bomb. 
        
             The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin 
        with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires 
        to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made. If a piece of 
        wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothes
        pin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the 
        clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two 
        pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the 
        igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter 
        or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode.
        
                            __________________________________
                            \_foil___________________________/
         Insert strip of      ----------------------------spring
         wood with trip-      _foil__________________________
         wire between foil   /_______________________________\
         contacts.
        
             Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since 
        the spring also conducts electricity.
        
             RADIO CONTROL DETONATORS
        
             In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled deto
        nator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several 
        miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in 
        much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators 
        is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that 
        an individual would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC 
        (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted 
        to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby 
        store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her 
        abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that 
        controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the 
        solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC 
        boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for 
        the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or 
        igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the 
        receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detona
        tor).


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        100                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        
        DELAYS
             
             A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set 
        up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost 
        quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the 
        different types of delays that can be employed by anyone wishing to be sure 
        that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does.
        
        
             FUSE DELAYS
        
             It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for 
        ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average 
        cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, 
        the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker 
        than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely 
        to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft 
        in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition 
        of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough 
        oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses 
        will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure 
        they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is 
        determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way 
        through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the 
        fuse for a device in the hole formed.
        
                                    |=|
                                    |=| ---------- filter
                                    |=|
                                    | |
                                    | |
                                    |o| ---------- hole for fuse
         cigarette ------------     | |
                                    | |
                                    | |
                                    |_| ---------- light this end
        
             A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet 
        of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with 
        powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a 
        fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused 
        with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed 
        with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A 
        chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few 
        bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the 
        first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party 
        supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the 
        fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possi
        ble.







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             Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the 
        home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of 
        boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all 
        cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, 
        it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of 
        the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder 
        or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-
        burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow 
        fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder 
        and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then 
        gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to 
        dry.
        
             TIMER DELAYS
        
             Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who 
        wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location 
        and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place 
        if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. 
        By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, 
        and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be 
        made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less 
        than an hour is desired.
        
          ___________________________________  to igniter   from igniter
          |                                  |
          |               12                 |      :            :
          |         11           1           |      :            :
          |                                  |      :            :
          |     10                   2       |      :            :
          |                 o................|......:            :
          |                                  |                   :
          |   9                         3    |                   :
          |                                  |                   :
          |                                  |                   :
          |    8                      4      |                   :
          |                        o.........|......             :
          |          7             5         |     :             :
          |                 6                |     :.+.....-.....:
          |__________________________________|     __|_____|
                                       |           |
                                       |  battery  |
         o - contacts                  |           |
         ..... - wire                  |           |
                                       |___________|
        
             This device is set to go off in eleven hours.  When the hour hand of the 
        clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, 
        allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
        
             The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set 
        for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that 
        in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By remov
        ing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib 
        or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. 


                                (c) 1990 
        102                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        
             To utilize this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can 
        be plugged into. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to 
        the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with 
        an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the 
        speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, 
        since such a timer could be extremely small. 
        
             The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can 
        usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the 
        recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be con
        nected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be 
        ideal. 
        
             Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-
        magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not 
        have to be stepped up.
        
             CHEMICAL DELAYS
        
             Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some 
        cases. 
        
             If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and 
        capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat 
        through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with alumi
        num foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container 
        must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas 
        that is forming does not break the container. 
        
                    _               _
                   | |             | |
                   | |_____________| |
                   | |             | |
                   | |  sulfuric   | |
                   | |  acid       | |
                   | |             | |---------- aluminum foil
                   | |_____________| |           (several thicknesses)
                   |_________________|
        
             The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured 
        there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used 
        to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
        
             1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that 
               eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed under
               neath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a 
               current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires 
               are immersed in the acid.








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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                103


             2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the 
               acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the 
               potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to 
               ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a 
               thermite bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio 
               with the thermite, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the 
               rest of the thermite.
        
             3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
        
        EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
        
             This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a 
        complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which 
        are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.
        
             PAPER CONTAINERS
        
             Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was 
        first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very 
        simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses 
        for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrack
        ers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing 
        it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting 
        and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of 
        Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their 
        manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a 
        sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one 
        corner so that it looks like this:
        
           ________________________________________________________
           |                                                      |\
           |                                                      | \
           |                                                      |  \
           |______________________________________________________|___\
        
           and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
        
           _______________________________________________________
           |                                                     /|
           |                                                    / |
           |                                                   /  |
           |__________________________________________________/___|
        
              A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyro
        dex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning 
        fuel-oxidizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then 
        inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill 
        out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped 
        together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, 
        and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished 
        polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle.
        




                                (c) 1990 
        104                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                     ^
                    / \  ----- securely tape all corners
                   /   \
                  /     \
                 /       \
                /         \
               /           \____________________________
              /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/  ---------- fuse
        
        
             METAL CONTAINERS
        
             The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained 
        explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match 
        heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
        tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills 
        the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause 
        enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode 
        the unfinished bomb. 
        
             By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the less stupid 
        anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would buy two 
        pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).  
        
             First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so 
        that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The 
        fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. 
        
             He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, possibly 
        putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then pour his 
        explosive powder in the bomb.  To pack it tightly, he would take a large wad 
        of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the powder 
        down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil or 
        other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. 
        
             Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue 
        paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads 
        of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which 
        might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled 
        bomb is shown in fig. 2.
        
             _________           _______________          __________
             |       |     ^^^^^^               ^^^^^^    |        |
             | |vvvvv|    |_________________________|     |vvvvvv| |
             | |                                                 | |
             | |                                                 | |
             | |                                                 | |
             | |                                                 | |
             | |           ___________________________           | |
             | |          |                           |          | |
             | |^^^^^|     vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv    |^^^^^^| |
             |_______|                                    |________|
        
             fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.



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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                105


              ________                                ________
              | _____|________________________________|_____ |
              | |__________________________________________| |
              | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
              | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
              | | : : :  |- - - low order explosive - - --------------
              | | paper  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|    fuse
              | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
              | |________|_________________________________| |
              | |__________________________________________| |
              |______|                                |______|
               endcap                pipe               endcap
                                                        w/ hole
        
             fig. 2  Assembled pipe bomb.
        
             This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he 
        did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece 
        of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. 
        A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without 
        tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it 
        will split along the fold. 
        
             The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe 
        is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens one end of 
        a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the pip
        ing. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if 
        this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the 
        now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would 
        fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of 
        tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a 
        pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the 
        process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the 
        explosive. A diagram is presented below:
        
                                                    _______
         __________________________________________/       |
        |                                                  |
        |                                              o   |
        |__________________________________________        |
                                                   \_______|
        
               fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled
                      (top view)
                                                      _____ 
          ___________________________________________/  |  |
         |                                              |  |
         |                                            o |  |
         |___________________________________________   |  |
                                                     \__|__|
        
               fig. 2  pipe with one end flattened and folded up 
                       (top view)




                                (c) 1990 
        106                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                                  ____________ fuse hole
                                  |
                                  v
         _________________________________________________
         |                             \ |____ |
         |                              \____| |
         |                               ______|
         |                              /
         |_____________________________/__________________
        
               fig. 3  pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
        
                                                    _____________ fuse
                                                   /
                                                   |
          ________   ______________________________|___   _______
          |  ____|  /     |- - - - - - - - - - -| - -  \  |___  |
          |  |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
          |________ paper |- - -  low order explosive -  _______|
                \         | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
                 \_____________________________________/
        
        
               fig. 4  completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and
                       explosive (side view)
        
        
              A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low-
        order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. 
        But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a 
        pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 car
        tridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxidizer 
        mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called
        "crater makers".
        
             A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary 
        device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so 
        that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The 
        fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the 
        thermite.
        
             The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-
        order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the 
        latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller low-
        order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order explo
        sive would probably be used. 











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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                107


                                           _______________________ fuse
                                           |
        _________                          |           _________
        |   ____|__________________________|___________|____   |
        |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |
        |   |  * * * * * *  high explosive | * * * * * * * |   |
        |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |
        |   |  *  ______    _______________|_    ______  * |   |
        |   | * * |  __|   /   - - - - - - | \   |__  | *  |   |
        |   |  *  |  |____/   low explosive - \____|  |  * |   |
        |   | * * |_______  - - - - - - - - -  _______| *  |   |
        |   |  * * * * *  \  - - - - - - - -  /  * * * * * |   |
        |   | * * * * * *  \_________________/  * * * * *  |   |
        |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |
        |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  |   |
        |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |
        |   |______________________________________________|   |
        |_______|                                      |_______|
        
        
             If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, 
        then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe 
        bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
        
             GLASS CONTAINERS
        
             Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are 
        problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily 
        compared to metal or plastic containers.  Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely 
        event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be seri
        ously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample 
        perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still 
        has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his 
        ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
        
             Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a 
        demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal detec
        tors in an airport or other public place.  All that need be done is fill the 
        container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, 
        and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.

















                                (c) 1990 
        108                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                        ________________________  fuse
                        |
                   _____|_____
                   | ___|___ |
                   | >  |  < |  drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
                   | >  |  < |  be sure fuse will not come out of cap
                   | >  |  < |
                   |    |    |
                   |         |  screw cap on bottle
                   V         V
                    _________
                   <         >
                   <         >
                   <         >
                     /     \
                    /       \
                   /         \
                  |           |  fill bottle with low-order explosive
                  |           |
                  |           |
                  |           |
                  |           |
                  |___________|
        
        
             Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practical, 
        since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.  Much of the explosive 
        that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger 
        than a 16 oz. soda bottle.  Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for 
        high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand 
        the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was 
        able to detonate.
        
             PLASTIC CONTAINERS
        
             Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since 
        they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping 
        can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones 
        used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with 
        plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detect
        able by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by heating 
        the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be glued 
        closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an 
        endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying 
        agent works best in this type of device.












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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                109


                       ||               ||
                       ||               ||
                       ||\_____________/||
                       ||               ||
                       ||     epoxy     ||
                       ||_______________||
                       ||               ||
                       ||    tissue     ||
                       ||     paper     ||
                       ||_______________||
                       ||***************||
                       ||***************||
                       ||***************||
                       ||***************||
                       ||** explosive **||
                       ||***************||
                       ||***********-----------------------  fuse
                       ||***************||
                       ||_______________||
                       ||               ||
                       ||    tissue     ||
                       ||     paper     ||
                       ||_______________||
                       ||               ||
                       ||     epoxy     ||
                       || _____________ ||
                       ||/             \||
                       ||               ||
                       ||               ||
        
             One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the 
        device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue 
        paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe 
        works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an 
        inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used 
        in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
        
        ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
        
             The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person 
        who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this infor
        mation comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced uses 
        for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount of 
        explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high-
        order explosives.
        
             SHAPED CHARGES
        
             A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the 
        explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used 
        to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of 
        pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order 
        explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL 
        EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!



                                (c) 1990 
        110                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
        
                   + wire ________           _______ - wire
                                  |         |
         _               _________|_________|___________ 
         ^              |  _______|_________|_________  |
         |              | |       |         |         | |
         |              | |       \ igniter /         | |
         |              | |        \_______/          | |
         |              | |     priming charge        | |
         |              | |   (mercury fulminate)     | |
         |              | |             ^             | |
         |              | |            / \            | |
         |              | |           /   \           | |
                        | |          /     \          | |
         8 inches high  | |         /       \         | |
                        | |        /   high  \        | |<--1/2 inch 
         |              | |       /  explosive\       | |   thick steel
         |              | |      /    charge   \      | |   pipe
         |              | |     /               \     | |
         |              | |    /        ^        \    | |
         |              | |   /        / \        \   | |
         |              | |  /        /   \        \  | |
         |              | | /        /     \        \ | |
         |              | |/        /       \        \| |
         |              | |        /         \        | |
         |              | |       /           \       | |
         |              | |      /             \      | |
         |              | |     /               \     | |
         |              | |    /                 \    | |
         |      hole for| |   /                   \   | | hole for
         |      screw   | |  /                     \  | |  screw
         V______     ___| | /                       \ | |___   ______
         |______|   |_____|/                         \|_____| |______|
        
                          |<------- 8 inches -------->|
        
             If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would 
        direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the 
        opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in 
        the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device 
        such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful 
        electromagnet.














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        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                111


             TUBE EXPLOSIVES
        
             A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that 
        shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a 
        sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive 
        container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be pro
        duced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type 
        of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone 
        pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy 
        whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would 
        look like this:
        
                       ||      ||
                       ||      ||
                       ||\____/||
                       || epoxy||
                       ||______||
                       ||      ||
                       ||tissue||
                       || paper||
                       ||______||
                       ||******||
                       ||******||
                       ||******||
                       || RDX  ||
                       ||******||
                       ||******||
                       ||******||
                       ||  __  ||
                       || | s| ||
                       || | q| ||
                       || | u| ||
                       || | i| ||
                       || | b| ||
                       || | b| ||
                       || |__| ||
                       ||__||__||
                       ||tissue||
                       || paper||
                       ||__||__||
                       ||  ||  ||
                       || epoxy||
                       ||  ||  ||
                       || _||_ ||
                       ||/ || \||
                       ||  ||  ||
                           ||_______ + wire ______________
                           |________ - wire ______________
        
             When anyone wishes to use a tube bomb, they must wrap it around whatever 
        thing they wish to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb together. 
        After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the 
        bomb, with any method of electric detonation.




                                (c) 1990 
        112                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
        
             If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small 
        particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion 
        similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The 
        tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, 
        pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and 
        ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would 
        push the walls of the building down. 
        
             This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion. If a person can 
        effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable substance and ignite 
        it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or other structure. Atomiz
        ing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be extremely difficult, 
        unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon jug of gasoline was 
        placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge was detonated, 
        the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a 
        building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely occur. 
        
             Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish 
        this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.  Also, instead 
        of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high 
        explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion 
        does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.
        
             LIGHTBULB BOMBS
        
             An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the 
        light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead 
        light socket.  
        
             A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes with its own 
        initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb 
        glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in 
        a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be done 
        carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot 
        enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is 
        necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. 
        When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in the bulb, remem
        bering the vacuum state inside the bulb. 
        
             In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temper
        ature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as 
        black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued 
        back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct 
        tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after 
        making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, 
        all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. 
        
             Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, 
        since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the 
        light.
        




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             LETTER-BOMBS
         
             Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making 
        sure it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a bomb.
        
             (1) Mix about 75% aluminum powder with 25% iron powder. This is a light 
               version of thermite, since it is in an enclosed space (the envelope, 
               as described below). 
        
             (2) Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. 
               Separate the layers. In the inner layer goes the thermite mixture, 
               one you are satisfied with. The outer layer can be either magnesium, 
               for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own choice.  
        
             (3) For the fuse we can use another set of chemicals: iodine crystals 
               and ammonium hydroxide in liquid form. Mix these together, in about  
               equal amounts, but you might want to use a heavy amount of iodine if 
               pressed for time. These are highly volatile, so keep them protected. 
               They have about the impact power of an M-100 for a teaspoon. Put 
               these in a protective card-board lining, and put them at the top of 
               the envelope.  Rig this so it puts pressure on the crystals when the 
               package is opened, but not from just squeezing the envelope.
        
             Iron can burn, at a very high temperature, but it needs a little help. 
        This is what the aluminum is for.  Aluminum burns at a relatively low tempera
        ture, so it is used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite 
        the aluminum, which then burns the iron, at a suitable temperature. Since this 
        is going off in an enclosed space, it will burn much hotter and slower and 
        with more violence than a normal mix.
        
             Since the bulk of letter bombs are easily recognizable, they rarely make 
        it past the post office.
         
             How to avoid letter bombs:
        
             Since you made it this far, I will tell you how to avoid being detonated 
        with a letter bomb you may have had sent to you.
        
             1) Never open a letter bomb the way it wants to be opened! This is the 
               way of possibly avoiding the fuse. If it is set to detonate on con
               tact with air, then this will not work.  
        
             2) Don't squeeze, bend, or anything!
        
             3) If it looks like a bomb, then don't even touch it! This is the best 
               way to avoid problems!











                                (c) 1990 
        114                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             BOOK BOMBS
        
             Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where 
        perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by 
        authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to 
        set off a bomb.  
        
             One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; 
        an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a 
        relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback varie
        ty to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large text
        books, and other such books work well.  
        
             When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book 
        that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The 
        actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an 
        electric drill and a coping saw.  
        
             First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By pouring 
        an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the 
        bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold 
        all of the book's pages together tightly.  
        
             After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and 
        the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in 
        the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is ex
        tremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of 
        the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and 
        clamping the pages together in a vice works best. 
        
             When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be 
        drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. 
        Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a 
        rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a 
        shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
                        ______________________ 
                       |  __________________  |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |                  | |
                       | |__________________| |
                       |______________________|
        
                         (book covers omitted)
        
             This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
        


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             The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be 
        packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about.  
        
             Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, 
        the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.
        
             PHONE BOMBS
        
             The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to 
        kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the 
        person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.  If a small but powerful high 
        explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the 
        current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the 
        high explosive in the person's hand. 
        
             All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch 
        down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the 
        squib's leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 in the 
        receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by 
        the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual 
        to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the 
        tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib.  
        
             Note that the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the 
        owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is 
        highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device ex
        plodes.
        
             MINIATURE CLAYMORE MINE
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Potassium Chlorate          Measuring Container
                                            (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
              Nitrobenzene                
                (Oil of Mirbane)          Double-Sided Adhesive Tape
        
              Epoxy Resin                 Small Alnico 5 Horseshoe Magnets
        
                                          Several 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings
        
                                          Soap dishes consisting of two separate
                                            halves that fit together with the bottom
                                            half and the top half beveled
        
                                          Flat board 36x36 and another flat board or
                                            Rolling Pin
        
             (1) Crush the Potassium Chlorate between the two boards or with the 
               rolling pin until it is a very very fine powder.
        
             (2) Fill the top half of the soap dish to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 
               inch diameter ball bearings held together with a light coating of 
               epoxy resin.




                                (c) 1990 
        116                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             (3) Cut a hole in the bottom half and cover it with tape. The hole 
               should be big enough for you to pour the nitrobenzene into later and 
               big enough to fit a detonator into.
        
             (4) Pack the bottom half tightly with Potassium Chlorate, very tightly 
               leaving no extra room.
        
             (5) Tape the two halves together tightly.
        
             When you are ready to use your charge, simply pour in the nitrobenzene. 
        The correct ratio is 1 part by volume of nitrobenzene to 4 parts by volume of 
        potassium chlorate. If you didn't read this through and keep track of the 
        amount of potassium chlorate you used, then you won't get optimum results.
        
             Allow the nitrobenzene to soak for 4-6 minutes, and then insert your 
        electronically initiated or time fused detonator into the hole. Seal around 
        the hole with epoxy resin.
        
             Use the magnets and the tape to attach the charge 3 feet above the ground 
        with the ball bearing side facing outward.
        
             You can either use an egg timer or a stepswitch (Underground detonator 
        activated by weight) or you can use the good old time fuse running into a 
        mini-compound detonator.
        
        
             SHOTGUN SHELL IMPACT GRENADE
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Potassium Chlorate/         Wood dowel or Steel bar 11/16"
                Nitrobenzene                in diameter and any length beyond 1/2"
        
              Mini-Compound Detonator     Hacksaw
        
              12 Gauge Shotgun Shell      Drill w/ 1/4 " bit
        
              Epoxy Resin                 Pieces of Cloth 12' x 1/2'
        
              Electrical Tape             Steel Ball Bearing 3/8' in Diameter
        
             (1) Cut open or open up the front end of a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and 
               empty out the entire contents saving only the casing.
        
             (2) To ensure the mini detonator is centered, use the hacksaw to cut a 
               1/2' length of 11/16' steel bar or wooden dowel. Drill a 1/4' diame
               ter hole in the center of the 1/2' long wood or metal cylinder.
        
             (3) After the guide has been prepared then glue it in place on the 
               primer inside the shotgun shell casing.  
        
                 *NOTE* do not get any glue on the primer itself.  






                           An M & M Enterprises Production 
        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                117


                 Place the minicompound detonator open side down in the cylinder and 
               glue it into place. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell with 
               Potassium Chlorate ***CAREFULLY***. Close off the end with tape, and 
               when ready to use simply pour in the nitrobenzen activator.
        
             (4) After this is accomplished, tape a 3/8' steel ball bearing over the 
               primer on the outside of the shell over the primer. Tape the cloth 
               streamers around the upside of the shell casing to ensure stability 
               in flight and also helping it to land on the downside or primer side.
        
             (5) Tape nails around the shell with notches filed 1/4' apart all along 
               them.
        
                       DIAGRAM
        
                \  /  \ | / \         Key:
                 \/    \|/  /         + = Mini Compound Detonator
                 |\    /\|  |         & = Wood or Metal Holding Cylinder
                 \ \  / // /                for Mini-Compound Detonator
                  \ \/ // /           = = Tape
                   \ \\||/            O = Ball Bearing
                   -------            % = Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene   
                  |%%%%%%%|                 High Explosive
                  |%%+++%%|        \|\/ = Cloth Streamers    
                  |%%+++%%|           " = Primer
                  |&&+++&&|
                  |&&+++&&|
                   ---"---
                   \  O  /
                    =====
        
             Pour the nitrobenzene into the upside of the shell and then wait 3-4 
        minutes. Then to use, simply throw at a target or group of people and upon 
        impact the grenade will detonate itself.
        
             To use as a booby trap, simply place it with the ball bearing side up in 
        the ground where someone will step on it (minus the cloth streamers).
        
             SHOTGUN SHELL BOMBS
        
             These are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with card
        board fins put on. On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a 
        hole drilled through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay 
        in, but loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact. Since the shell is 
        not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will naturally not cause the same 
        amount of damage. 
        
             These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling 
        crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut 
        buster to head straight downward.
        
             Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on 
        contact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to trace 
        its point of origin.



                                (c) 1990 
        118                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


        		 -----
        		 !    \
        	      /> !     \		/- Cork
        	  Fins	 !     !	       v
        		 --------------------!\
        	   ! \	 !	   !-----!   ! \ !
        	   !  \> !------   !	 !   !---!  <-- Roofing nail
        	   !	 !	   !-----!   ! / !
        	   \	 --------------------!/
        	    \	 !     !       ^
        	     \-> !     / ^	\
        		 !    /  !	 \
        		 -----	 !	 Shell
        			 !
        			 !
        		Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell.
        
             DESTRUCTORS
        
             The Destructor is a simple yet powerful bomb to make, using general 
        components found at most hobby stores.
        
           The following is all you need to make one Destructor:
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
              1 CO2 Cartridge             Scissors               
        
              2 Size D Estes model        Funnel
                  rocket engines  
                                          Masking Tape
              2 Solar igniters 
                                          Hammer
              1 Bottle of fast drying 
                  model glue              Container (jar, cup, glass, etc)
        
                                          20 foot wire (+ and -)
        
                                          6 volt (or 12 volt) lantern battery
        
        
             The CO2 cartridge is the body of the bomb and when it explodes will 
        fragment shrapnel, so stand back.
        
             If you have a CO2 BB gun then you will have many empty cartridges. For 
        those of you who have never bought CO2 cartridges you will have to find some 
        other way of emptying them. I have done this on accident before, simply insert 
        a nail in the top of the cartridge and watch the CO2 gas come out! Very cold 
        if you let it touch you. I do not suggest doing it this way, so if possible, 
        ask a friend who has a CO2 BB gun for their empty CO2 cartridges.







                           An M & M Enterprises Production 
        USING EXPLOSIVES                                                119


             Procedure:
        
             1) Once you have an empty cartridge you have to make the hole bigger, 
               otherwise it is very difficult to get the explosive compounds into 
               the cartridge. Take a nail and pound the hole bigger. The size of the 
               hole is very important. If it is too big the cartridge will act as a 
               rocket instead of a bomb.
        
             2) Unroll the model rocket engines with a pocket knife, until you have 
               the black chunk of boosting compound. Throw away the unrolling paper. 
               You may remove the block of clay since this is not explosive. Powder 
               the chunk with the hammer until you have fine powder. To make the 
               fine powder, lay down some wax paper on the floor. Find a screen 
               mesh, and filter the powder, leaving the big pieces on top and the 
               fine powder on the wax paper. Then pour the powder on the wax paper 
               into a container. After you have the two size D engines powdered and 
               in the container you are ready to put the powder into the CO2 car
               tridge.
        
             3) Make a funnel out of paper (a floppy disk jacket works well, with the 
               end clipped off) and tape it around the end of the cartridge. Slowly 
               pour the powder from the container into the funnel. You may have to 
               use a toothpick to help the powder through the funnel and into the 
               cartridge. If your powder is not fine enough it might jam in the hole 
               and you will have to remove the funnel and clear the passage. Shake 
               the cartridge every so often until you can't hear the powder in 
               there. The cartridge is now full of explosive powder.
        
             4) Clip the paper protector of the igniter with a scissors and bend the 
               wires so they are relatively straight. (Be careful not to break the 
               igniter when bending the wires) Coat the igniter with glue except for 
               the ends, and let it dry for a few minutes. Then insert the igniter 
               into the cartridge leaving the ends exposed. The tip of the igniter 
               must touch the powder for the powder to ignite. This should be no 
               problem if you have enough powder in the cartridge. Put glue around 
               the igniter and the tip of the cartridge and let dry.
        
             5) Bend the end wires of the igniter and connect to your 20 foot wire. 
               Put tape around the end wires and cartridge. The Destructor is now 
               ready to detonate.
        
             6) When you have found a place to detonate The Destructor, stretch the 
               wire the full 20 feet and then touch both wires to the two negative 
               and positive connectors. This will send a 6 volt charge through the 
               wire and to the igniter. The igniter will ignite the explosive com
               pounds in the cartridge.
        










                                (c) 1990 
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