        MANUFACTURING EXPLOSIVES                                        59


                                    Chapter 6
        
                              MANUFACTURING EXPLOSIVES
        
        PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
        
             NITRIC ACID
        
               There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for 
        explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.
        
             Materials:                     Equipment:
             sodium nitrate or              adjustable heat source
             potassium nitrate 
                                            retort
        
             distilled water                ice bath
        
             concentrated                   stirring rod
             sulfuric acid
                                            collecting flask with stopper
        
             1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
        
             2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potas
               sium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not 
               dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
        
             3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place 
               the collecting flask in the ice bath.
        
             4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until 
               liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that 
               forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the 
               retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. 
        
                  CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will 
               decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production 
               of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good 
               idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it.
        
             Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, 
        simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the 
        sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be neces
        sary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one liter of boiling 
        water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a 
        jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in 
        black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is 
        allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.








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        60                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             SULFURIC ACID
        
             Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or 
        industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car bat
        tery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a 
        car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be 
        pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, 
        either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can 
        also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster 
        than clean motor oil.
        
             AMMONIUM NITRATE
        
             Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. 
        It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an 
        ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running 
        away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped 
        reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until 
        all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There 
        would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be 
        kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from 
        the air.  The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated 
        VERY gently to drive off the remaining water.
        
        EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
        
             These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could 
        conceivably produce the materials described.  The methods here are usually 
        scaled-down industrial procedures.
        
        
             IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
        
             Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, 
        only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium triio
        dide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no 
        light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and should 
        never be stored near any high or low explosives.
        
                  AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
        
             Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals 
        that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they 
        are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crys
        tals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks 
        across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps 
        and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, 
        or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple 
        iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface 
        that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the 
        iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corro
        sive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it 
        contacts. Iodine gas can damage lungs and it settles to the ground and stains 
        things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last 
        for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. 


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             Materials                Equipment
        
             iodine crystals          funnel and filter paper
        
             clear ammonia            paper towels
             (ammonium hydroxide,
              for the suicidal)       two throw-away glass jars
        
             1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The 
               jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
        
             2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
        
             3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the 
               funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught 
               in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, 
               so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form 
               a triangle with one curved side.  Pull one thickness of paper out to 
               form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel.
        
             4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour 
               the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
        
             5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first 
               jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it 
               drains.
        
             6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter 
               paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. 
               Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources 
               of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, 
               divide the wet material into about eight chunks.
        
             7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch 
               piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press 
               the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press 
               the crystal itself.
        
                   Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of 
               scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have 
               a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual 
               containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to 
               slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will 
               stain whatever they settle on. 
        
             One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in air
        tight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place 
        them where they will be stepped on or crushed.








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        62                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  MERCURY FULMINATE
        
             Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating com
        pounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock and even the action of 
        dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode.
        
             MATERIALS                  EQUIPMENT
        
             mercury (5 g)              glass stirring rod
        
             concentrated nitric        100 ml beaker (2)
             acid (35 ml)
                                        adjustable heat source
             ethyl alcohol (30 ml)
                                        blue litmus paper
             distilled water
                                        funnel and filter paper
        
             1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric 
               acid, using the glass rod.
        
             2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when 
               the solution turns green and boils.
        
             3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and 
               carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red 
               and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flamma
               ble.
        
             4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicat
               ing that the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 
               30 ml of the distilled water to the solution.
        
             5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the 
               liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is 
               corrosive and toxic.
        
             6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much 
               excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper 
               until they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue 
               when it touches the wet crystals.
        
             7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away 
               from any explosive or flammable material.
        
             This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury 
        cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of 
        ethanol to every one volume of mercury.









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                  NITROGLYCERINE
        
             Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the 
        most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. 
        Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to 
        make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the 
        all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is con
        verted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make 
        nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
        
             MATERIAL               EQUIPMENT
        
             distilled water        eye-dropper
        
             table salt             100 ml beaker
        
             sodium bicarbonate     200-300 ml beakers (2)
        
             concentrated nitric    ice bath container
             acid (13 ml)           (a plastic bucket serves well)
        
             concentrated sulfuric  centigrade thermometer
             acid (39 ml)
                                    blue litmus paper
             glycerine
        
             1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
        
             2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and 
               about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the 
               sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate 
               in the water so that some remains undissolved.
        
             3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, 
               and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the 
               overall temperature.
        
             4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of 
               concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the 
               beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will 
               not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be 
               sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring 
               the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or 
               less.
        
             5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully 
               add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix 
               the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centi
               grade. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
        
             6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, 
               one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture 
               where the mixed acids and glycerine meet.  




                                (c) 1990 
        64                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF 
               THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!  The 
               glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will 
               immediately begin to rise. 
        
                  Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of 
               the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small 
               quantities.
        
             7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of 
               nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the tempera
               ture of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees 
               centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the 
               mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb 
               the water produced by the reaction.
        
             8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 
               30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of 
               nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker 
               in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the 
               beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and 
               disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible 
               without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
        
             9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and 
               place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution 
               will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine 
               more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can 
               do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus 
               stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicar
               bonate solutions as in step 2.
        
             10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a 
               clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycer
               ine is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
        
            Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in 
        a secure cool place.
        
        
                  PICRATES
        
             Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or trinitrophe
        nol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they are 
        extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with metal 
        hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water, 
        metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and 
        mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range 
        molarity (about 6-9 M). This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, 
        and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.







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             LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
        
             There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores 
        and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise store owner 
        would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such an 
        individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order explo
        sives.
        
                  BLACK POWDER
        
             First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first 
        used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, 
        but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is con
        verted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine 
        burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by 
        static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be 
        made with wooden or clay tools. 
        
             MATERIALS               EQUIPMENT
        
             potassium               clay grinding bowl
             nitrate (75 g)          and clay grinder
        
               or                         or
        
             sodium                  wooden salad bowl
             nitrate (75 g)          and wooden spoon
        
             sulfur (10 g)           plastic bags (3)
        
             charcoal (15 g)         300-500 ml beaker (1)
        
             distilled water         coffee pot or heat source
        
             1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grind
               ing bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the 
               potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of 
               the plastic bags.
        
             2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical 
               in a separate plastic bag.
        
             3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the 
               beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it 
               all wet.
        
             4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or 
               sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until 
               there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is 
               universally black.
        
             5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. 
               Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is 
               never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
        


                                (c) 1990 
        66                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe 
               container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. 
               Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are 
               prone to generate static electricity.
        
                  NITROCELLULOSE
        
             Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton".  It is more 
        stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It 
        also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. 
        
             MATERIALS                   EQUIPMENT
        
             cotton  (cellulose)          two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
        
             concentrated                 funnel and filter paper
             nitric acid
                                          blue litmus paper
             concentrated
             sulfuric acid
        
             distilled water
        
             1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 
               10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
        
             2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 
               minutes.
        
             3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled 
               water to wash it in.
        
             4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
        
             5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is 
               ready to be dried and stored.





















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                  FUEL-OXIDIZER MIXTURES
        
             There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be 
        produced. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and 
        less effective.  A list of working fuel-oxidizer mixtures will be presented, 
        but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effec
        tiveness.  A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and 
        oxidizer:
        
              Oxidizer                  Fuel              Speed
            % by weight              % by weight            #   
        =========================================================
        potassium chlorate 67%        sulfur 33%            5  
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          friction/impact sensitive; unstable                    
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium chlorate 50%        sugar 35%             5   
                                      charcoal 15%   
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          fairly slow burning; unstable                          
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium chlorate 50%        sulfur 25%            8      
                                      magnesium or                   
                                      aluminum dust 25%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          extremely unstable!                                    
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium chlorate 67%        magnesium or          8          
                                      aluminum dust 33%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unstable                                                
        _________________________________________________________
        sodium nitrate 65%            magnesium dust 30%    ?        
                                      sulfur 5%           
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unpredictable burn rate                                
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium permanganate 60%    glycerine 40%         4     
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        delay before ignition depends upon grain size
         WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!        
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium permanganate 67%    sulfur 33%            5       
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unstable                                               
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium permangenate 60%    sulfur 20%            5       
                                      magnesium or
                                      aluminum dust 20%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unstable                                               
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium permanganate 50%    sugar 50%             3      
        _________________________________________________________



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        68                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


              Oxidizer                  Fuel              Speed
            % by weight              % by weight            #   
        =========================================================
        
        potassium nitrate 75%         charcoal 15%          7 
                                      sulfur 10%                 
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          This is black powder!                                  
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium nitrate 60%         powdered iron         1     
                                      or magnesium 40%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          burns very hot                                         
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium chlorate 75%        phosphorus            8 
                                      sesquisulfide 25%       
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          used to make strike-anywhere matches                   
        _________________________________________________________
        ammonium perchlorate 70%      aluminum dust 30%     6    
                                      and small amount of               
                                      iron oxide
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
         solid fuel for space shuttle                           
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium perchlorate 67%     magnesium or         10    
        (sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 33%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          flashpowder                                            
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium perchlorate 60%     magnesium or          8     
        (sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 20%            
                                      sulfur 20%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          alternate flashpowder                                  
        _________________________________________________________
        barium nitrate 30%            aluminum dust 30%     9    
        potassium perchlorate 30%  
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          alternate flash powder                                 
        _________________________________________________________
        barium peroxide 90%           magnesium dust 5%    10    
                                      aluminum dust 5%                
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          alternate flash powder                                 
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium perchlorate 50%     sulfur 25%            8      
                                      magnesium or        
                                      aluminum dust 25%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          slightly unstable                                      
        _________________________________________________________





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              Oxidizer                  Fuel              Speed
            % by weight              % by weight            #   
        =========================================================
        potassium chlorate 67%        red phosphorus 27%    7    
        calcium carbonate 3%          sulfur 3%                  
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          very unstable; impact sensitive                        
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium permanganate 50%    powdered sugar 25%    7    
                                      aluminum or                    
                                      magnesium dust 25%            
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unstable; ignites if it gets wet!                      
        _________________________________________________________
        potassium chlorate 75%        charcoal dust 15%     6     
                                      sulfur 10%
        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          unstable
        =========================================================
        
        NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
              perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
        
             The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxidizer mixture burns 
        AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of 
        burning.
        
             As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxidizer mixtures 
        that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxidizer(s), 
        different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity 
        of the mixture.
        
                  PERCHLORATES
        
             As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid 
        will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or 
        sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can 
        be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium 
        perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potas
        sium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with 
        a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explo
        sively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide 
        are ideal.














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        70                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
        
             High order explosives can be made in the home without too much difficul
        ty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high explo
        sive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is made 
        up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 (nitrogen dioxide) molecules. 
        T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a material. When 
        a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond 
        is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microsec
        onds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives. Several 
        methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
        
                  R.D.X.
        
             R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with 
        plasticizers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is 
        because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to 
        detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too 
        severe shock.  It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, 
        but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the 
        surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in 
        the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammo
        nium nitrate.
        
                       R.D.X. RECIPE #1
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
             hexamine                     500 ml beaker
               or
             methenamine                  glass stirring rod
             fuel tablets (50 g)
                                          funnel and filter paper
             concentrated
             nitric acid (550 ml)         ice bath container
                                          (plastic bucket)
             distilled water
                                          centigrade thermometer
             table salt
                                          blue litmus paper
             ice
        
             ammonium nitrate
        
             1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, and carefully pour 550 ml of con
               centrated nitric acid into the beaker.
        
             2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small 
               amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature 
               will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire 
               consequences could result.
        
                Stir the mixture.




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             3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding 
               more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. 
               Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it 
               becomes cold when it is put in water. 
        
                Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero 
               degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes.
        
             4) Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the 
               mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the 
               crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
        
             5) Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled water. 
               Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat 
               steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the 
               crystals more stable and safe.
        
             6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry com
               pletely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an 
               explosive.
        
             7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 
               11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together 
               in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
        
             8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by 
               weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight 
               R.D.X.
        
             9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it 
               should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, 
               since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. 
        
                Sodium or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is 
               sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
        
             10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is com
               pressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.



















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        72                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                       R.D.X. Recipe #2
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
              Hexamethylenetetramine      Scale with gram accuracy
                (Hexamin, Urotropine,
                 or Methenamine)          Graduated cylinder (cc or ml)
                                            or measuring cups
              Strong Nitric Acid
                                          Thermometer (20-100 degrees Celsius
              Acetone                       or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit
        
                                          Several large quart canning jars
        
                                          Two large basins or bowls made of metal
                                            or some other heatable metal
        
                                          Paper Towels
        
             1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning 
               jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius 
               (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.
        
             2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the 
               temperature between your basins of hot and cold water.
        
             3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamine.  
               Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 
               15 minute time period. All the while maintaining the temperature 
               between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius by moving it in and out of the cold 
               water basins.
        
             4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55 
               degrees Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. 
               Then maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.
        
             5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the 
               basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius (68 F).  
               Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3 cups (750ml) 
               of cold water and white salt will appear.
        
             6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care.  Now 
               filter the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the 
               mouth of another jar.
        
             7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 
               cups of fresh cold water and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neu
               tralize the acid.
        
               Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.
        
             8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart can
               ning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heating the acetone then adding the 
               RDX crystals to it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely 
               dissolves in the acetone.


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             9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room tempera
               ture and let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate 
               again into it's salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel 
               around another jar and rinse it with cold water the same way you did 
               before. Now you have the finished product (roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces 
               of RDX).
        
             10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in a jar with an 
               air tight lid for future use. RDX does not lose it's effectiveness 
               for months.
        
        
             RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes 
        to make detonators. RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as 
        an explosive by itself. It is also commonly referred to as Clyclonite.
        
        
                  AMMONIUM NITRATE
        
             Ammonium nitrate could be made according to the haphazard method in 
        Chapter 5, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since it is usually 
        used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. 
        A person could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical 
        supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate would be detonating 
        it. A rather powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster 
        charge.  The diagram below will explain.
        
                  _________________________________________
                  |       |                               |
                  |  |-------|                            |
             --------| T.N.T.|     ammonium nitrate       |
             |primer |booster|                            |
             --------|       |                            |
                  |  |-------|                            |
                  |_______|_______________________________|
        
             The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a 
        tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
        
        
                  ANFOS
        
             ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate-Fuel Oil Solution.  An ANFO 
        solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to 
        pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to 
        detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by 
        weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the 
        ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a 
        large shockwave to set it off.







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        74                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  T.N.T.
        
             T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high 
        explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known 
        high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is 
        the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well 
        known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is 
        designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the 
        product. A beginner, however, would probably opt for the less economical one 
        step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very 
        strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very 
        strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, 
        and it is filtered.
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Toluene                     Graduated Cylinder   
              
              70% Nitric Acid             Thermometer
        
              100% Sulfuric Acid
        
              Sulfur Trioxide
        
              Benzene
        
             (1) Mix 2 parts of nitric acid with 3 parts of sulfuric acid in an ice 
               bath, ensuring temperature is maintained below 30 degrees centigrade.
        
             (2) Once this mixture has stabilized below 30 degrees, remove it from 
               the ice bath.
        
             (3) Mix 170 parts of toluene with 100 parts of the nitric/sulfuric acid 
               mixture in an ice bath, again ensuring that temperature is maintained 
               below 30 degrees.      
         
             (4) Allow this mixture to set for 30 minutes and let it separate. This 
               forms mononitrotoluene.
        
             (5) Mix 1 part nitric acid with 2 parts sulfuric acid in an ice bath.
        
             (6) Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it with 215 parts of 
               the acid mixture from step (5). Keep the temperature at 60-70 while  
               they are slowly mixed. 
        
             (7) Raise the temperature to 90-100 degrees and stir for 30 min. This 
               forms di-nitrotoluene.
        
             (8) Separate the di-nitrotoluene and mix 100 parts of this with 225 
               parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric with 20% extra dissolved 
               sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. 
        
             (9) Heat at 95 degrees for 60 min. and then at 120 degrees for 90 
               minutes.
        
             (10) Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water.


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             (11) Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene.
        
        
                  POTASSIUM CHLORATE
        
             Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be 
        obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of 
        Vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the 
        material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, 
        however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. 
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
             potassium chlorate           zip-lock plastic bag
             (9 parts, by volume)
        
             petroleum jelly              clay grinding bowl
             (Vaseline)                          or
             (1 part, by volume)          wooden bowl and wooden spoon
        
             1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and 
               slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer 
               that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
        
             2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into 
               the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possi
               ble, i.e. put the Vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
        
             3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the 
               potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main 
               glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
        
             4) The material must be used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react 
               to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, 
               however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
        
        
                  DYNAMITE
        
             The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. 
        Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was 
        made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided 
        individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) 
        would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various 
        materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large 
        weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate 
        could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase 
        the power.  But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.








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        76                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
        
             Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All 
        that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated 
        nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 
        ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. 
        Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. 
        Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are 
        more readily detonated.
        
                  PICRIC ACID
        
             Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military 
        explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less 
        sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It is another explosive that is fairly 
        simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and 
        nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry 
        lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its 
        tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as 
        potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such 
        as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D.  
        
             MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT
        
             phenol (9.5 g)                    500 ml flask
        
             concentrated                      adjustable heat source
             sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
                                               1000 ml beaker
             concentrated nitric               or other container
             acid (38 ml)                      suitable for boiling in
        
             distilled water                   filter paper
                                               and funnel
        
                                               glass stirring rod
        
             1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 
               12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
        
             2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container 
               and bring the water to a gentle boil.
        
             3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the 
               boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid 
               for about thirty minutes.  
        
                 After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for 
               about five minutes.








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             4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the con
               tainer to cool, use it to create an ice bath. Place the 500 ml flask 
               with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concen
               trated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. 
               A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture 
               stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
        
             5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling 
               more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling 
               water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
        
             6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in 
               an ice bath until it is cold.
        
             7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the 
               solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid 
               and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
        
             8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents 
               of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake 
               vigorously.
        
             9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
        
             10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they 
               will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could 
               explode spontaneously.
        
        
                  AMMONIUM PICRATE
        
             Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. 
        It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than 
        that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, 
        since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in 
        metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household 
        ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass 
        container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear house
        hold ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder 
        remaining should be ammonium picrate.

















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        78                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
        
             Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow 
        liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees Celsius, or 
        when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to 
        produce.
        
             1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. 
               Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it 
               remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
        
             2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing 
               hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a 
               stopper and glass pipe.
        
             3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of 
               the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the 
               beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, 
               oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solu
               tion, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat 
               source immediately.
        
                 Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium ni
               trate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this 
               requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
        
                 The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by 
               gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the 
               glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the 
               ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water.
        
             4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immedi
               ately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
        
        
                  LEAD AZIDE
        
             Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other 
        explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. 
        It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily 
        detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to 
        produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
        
             By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, 
        the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers together, 
        and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no 
        reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops form
        ing. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The 
        precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead 
        acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. 
        Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.






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                  FERTILIZER/HYDRAZINE LIQUID EXPLOSIVE
        
              This one is more powerful than C-4. However you will need a blasting cap 
        or a homemade compound detonator to detonate it. Acetone Peroxide detonators 
        can be used here or Mini-Compound Detonators.
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
              Ammonium Nitrate            Large Mixing Container 
                Fertilizer (no less
                 than 32% Nitrogen)       Glass Stirring Rod
        
              Anhydrous Hydrazine         Storage container w/ tight lid
                (Be careful with this one 
                 as it is very reactive!)
        
              Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator
        
             *NOTE* Mixing Ammonium Nitrate and Hydrazine is the same as mixing baking 
        soda and vinegar, so the reaction is very effervescent and can bubble over the 
        top. Use a jar 6 times the volume of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of 
        ammonia gas are released when these two are mixed, so wear a gas mask or be 
        upwind of the mixing.
        
             1) Pour into the container an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to 
               the amount of explosive required.
        
             2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to 
               the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly), 
               and then add more.
        
             3) Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer 
               dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount 
               of ammonium nitrate left over.
        
             4) Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than 
               any military explosive.
        
             5) To make it more powerful, add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 
               mesh or finer)
        
        
            This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties, and can be 
        poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine. This type of land mine 
        is totally disguised and cannot be noticed. All you need to do is bury a 
        compound detonator in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc. 
        This type of land mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of 
        rain etc. It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.









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        80                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  ACETONE PEROXIDE
        
              This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a 
        detonator. 
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Hydrogen Peroxide           Eye Dropper or Syringe w/
                                            glass tube
              Acetone
                                          Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
              Sulfuric Acid boiled until 
                white fumes appear.       Thermometer (0-100 degrees C)
                                          
              Ice                         Glass Containers
        
              Salt                        Large Pan
        
              Water                       Paper Towels
        
             1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass 
               container and mix thoroughly.
        
             2) Cool the mixture by placing it in a larger container containing ice, 
               salt, and water. Cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.
        
             3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop 
               by drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer, 
               keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the tempera
               ture rises, stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then 
               start adding it again.
        
             4) Once you have added all the acid into the mixture, continue stirring 
               for another 5 minutes.
        
             5) Let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.
        
             6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out 
               of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 
               hours.
        
             7) Filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with 
               a rubber band. Wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water over them, 
               letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the 
               paper towel into the jar.
        
             8) Select a container and allow them to dry.
        
            This can be used as an explosive; however, it is the simplest detonator 
        that I have ever encountered. It works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass 
        tubing with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly 
        as Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it refrig
        erated seems to make it last longer; however, for optimum effects it should be 
        used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate 
        almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that 
        matter.


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             INCENDIARIES
        
             This section covers the other types of materials that can be used to 
        destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented here are 
        explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
        
                  THERMITE
        
             Thermite is a fuel-oxidizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous 
        amounts of heat. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely 
        powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from 
        the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a 
        combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced 
        by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignit
        ed, it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
        
             MATERIALS
        
             powdered aluminum (10 g)
        
             powdered iron oxide (10 g)
        
             1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. 
               Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as 
               homogeneous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 
               50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts.
        
             2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of 
               potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sul
               furic acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later. The 
               other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, 
               by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermite, the 
               mixture can be ignited.
        
        
                  MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
        
             First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now 
        exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, 
        and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, 
        such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter 
        fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large 
        glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. 
        
             After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of 
        cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits 
        tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure 
        to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and 
        throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle 
        breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area 
        near the site of impact, and burst into flame. 






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        82                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a 
        more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A 
        mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it 
        strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such 
        as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown.
        
                  TIMED DELAY MOLTOV COCKTAIL
        
             This bomb disperses flaming oil and gasoline quickly, so steer clear 
        of it when it goes off.
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
              Potassium/Chlorate          Narrow necked Bottles
                Sugar igniter
        
              Concentrated Sulfuric Acid   
        
              Gelatin Capsules 
                (sizes 0,00, and 000)
        
              Lead Shot 
        
              Oil
        
              Gasoline
        
             1) Empty out the contents of the gelatin capsules (if any) and separate 
               them. Fill the smaller half of the capsule 1/4 full of lead shot. 
               Fill the remaining space with the potassium chlorate/sugar igniter.
        
             2) Pack the capsule, and place the larger end cap on the packed main 
               capsule. Set this aside for later use. Repeat this process until a 
               number of capsules have been produced.
        
             3) Store in a airtight container for future use.
        
             You are now ready to make the incendiary device. Fill the bottle about 
        1/4 inch high with Sulfuric Acid, and then fill the remaining space 3/4 full 
        of a gasoline/oil mixture in a 1:1 ratio.
        
             To detonate, drop in three or four of the previously prepared capsules, 
        and turn the bottle upside down (the neck of the bottle downward). The cap
        sules with the lead shot in them sink to the neck of the bottle, where the 
        heavier Sulfuric Acid is concentrated. In about 20 minutes the acid will eat 
        through the capsules and a white hot flame will explode the bottle, dispersing 
        the gasoline and oil mixture.
        
             For a prolonged time delay, place the capsule inside a larger capsule.
        








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                  CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
        
             The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather 
        than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best 
        a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the 
        very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. 
        When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays 
        onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck 
        by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The 
        chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced 
        to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
        
             MATERIALS                         EQUIPMENT
             potassium chlorate               glass bottle (12 oz.)
             (2 teaspoons) 
                                              cap for bottle, w plastic inside
             sugar (2 teaspoons) 
                                              cooking pan w/ raised edges
             concentrated  
             sulfuric acid (4 oz.)            paper towels 
        
             gasoline (8 oz.)                 glass or plastic cup and spoon
        
             1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make 
               sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. 
               If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and 
               tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A 
               glass top is excellent.
        
             2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
        
             3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass 
               bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and 
               screw the cap on the bottle. 
        
                Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
        
             4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons 
               of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling 
               water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
        
             5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. 
               Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved 
               potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow 
               the towel to dry.
        
             6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle 
               containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.
        
                  Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks 
               to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be 
               broken or tipped over.





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        84                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


             7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two dis
               tinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a 
               clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the 
               chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
        
             8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, 
               WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTAS
               SIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
        
             9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the 
               bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel 
               should immediately burst into a white flame.
        
        
                  BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
        
             Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane 
        stoves or for Bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. 
        
             To make such a device, all that a simple-minded individual would have to 
        do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of 
        Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the 
        fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will 
        boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. 
        In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized 
        fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of 
        the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expand
        ing gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, 
        however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely 
        to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning 
        charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of secur
        ing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas 
        container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should 
        immediately re-ignite it. 
        
             Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas 
        will do nicely.
        
                  CARBIDE GAS
         
             This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution. Obtain some calci
        um carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found 
        at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like 
        gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The 
        carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is 
        similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode 
        from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice 
        fireball!









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                  HTH/BRAKE FLUID
        
             This is a very effective time delayed incendiary that anyone can make, 
        and get the materials too. It is simple and easy and inexpensive, so enjoy. 
        Also this incendiary bursts into flames when brake fluid comes in contact with 
        the Calcium Hypochlorite.
        
             MATERIALS                          EQUIPMENT
        
              Granular Calcium Hypochlorite     Two cans of *EQUAL* size
               70% HTH swimming pool purifier
                                                Tape
              Brake Fluid 
                                                Nail or Small Drill
        
             1) Take the two cans and remove the contents. Wash them out thoroughly. 
               Drill or puncture a small hole in the bottom center of one of the 
               cans.
        
             2) Drill or puncture a series of small holes evenly spaced in the side 
               of the other can, and cover them with tape.
        
             3) Tape the top can (the can with one hole) on top of the other can (the 
               one with a lot of holes taped over)
        
             4) Place this set up in the center of a pile of Calcium Hypochlorite. 
               Depending on the delay time required, remove the tape from over the 
               appropriate number of holes.
        
             5) To start the delay just add brake fluid to the top can and let it 
               start to drip down.
        
             Diagram
        
                        ------------------<------Top Can
                        |________________|
                        ||              ||
                        ||            <---------Brake Fluid
                        ||              ||
                        ||_______O<-----------Drip Hole
                        ------------------
                        ++++++++++++++++++
                        ++++++++++++++++++<-------Tape bonding cans together
                        ------------------
                        |       O        |<------ O's are the delay holes
                        |+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole
                        |       O        |
              &&&&&&&&&&|+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole
          &&&&&&&&&&&&&&------------------&&&&&&&&&&&&    <----&'s is the Calcium
        &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&         Hypochlorite
        






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        86                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                  GELLED FLAME FUELS
                     
             Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use 
        in incendiary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readi
        ly to the target and produces greater heat concentration.
        
             Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly available 
        materials. The methods are divided into the following categories based on the 
        major ingredient:
        
                        1. Lye Systems
                        2. Lye-Alcohol Systems
                        3. Soap-Alcohol Systems
                        4. Egg White Systems
                        6. Wax Systems
        
                       LYE SYSTEMS
        
             Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in combi
        nation with powdered rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame 
        fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
        
             MATERIALS
              Gasoline
        
              Lye (Flake or Powder)
        
              Rosin or Castor Oil
        
             CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing 
        the flame fuel. NO SMOKING!
        
             NOTE: IF rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces.
        
             CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is 
        spilled, wash away immediately with large quantities of water.
        
             (1) Pour 60 parts gasoline with 15 parts rosin or castor oil into jar, 
               bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM CONTAINER.)
        
             (2) Add 15 parts rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for about 
               five minutes to mix thoroughly.
        
             (3) In a second container (NOT ALUMINUM) add 2 parts (flake) or 1 part 
               (powder) lye to an equal volume of water slowly with stirring.
        
             (4) Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens 
               (about one minute).
        
             NOTE: The sample will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can 
        be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
        





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                       LYE-ALCOHOL SYSTEMS
        
            Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in combi
        nation with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame 
        fuel.
        
             MATERIALS 
              Gasoline      
        
              Lye (flake or powder)           
        
              Ethyl Alcohol 
        
              Tallow
        
             NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substi
        tuted for ethyl alcohol, but their use produces softer gels.
        
             NOTE: The following can be substituted for the tallow:
        
                (a) Wool grease (Lanolin) (very good) -- Fat extracted from sheep wool
                (b) Castor Oil (good)
                (c) Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.)
                (d) Any fish oil
                (e) Butter or oleo margarine
        
             It is necessary when using substitutes (c) to (e) to double the given 
        amount of fat and of lye for satisfactory bodying.
        
             CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing 
        the flame fuel. NO SMOKING! 
        
             CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is 
        spilled, wash away immediately with large quantities of water.
        
             (1) Pour 60 parts gasoline and 14 parts tallow (or substitute) into jar, 
               bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM CONTAINER.)
        
             (2) Stir for about 1/2 minute to dissolve fat.
        
             (3) Add 3 parts alcohol to the gasoline mixture. Mix thoroughly.
        
             (4) In a separate container (NOT ALUMINUM) slowly add 2 parts (flake) or 
               1 part (powder) lye to an equal volume of water. Mixture should be 
               stirred constantly while adding lye.
        
             (5) Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until 
               thickened (about 1/2 hour)
        
             NOTE: The sample will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm 
        paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
        





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        88                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                       SOAP-ALCOHOL SYSTEM
        
             Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel 
        gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
        
             MATERIALS 
        
              Gasoline
        
              Ethyl Alcohol Whiskey
        
              Laundry soap
        
             NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substi
        tuted for ethyl alcohol.
        
             NOTE: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container 
        or wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. THESE CAN NOT BE USED.
        
             CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing 
        the flame fuel. NO SMOKING!
        
             NOTE: If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife.
        
             (1) Pour 1 part Alcohol and 36 parts gasoline into a jar, bottle or 
               other container and mix thoroughly.
        
             (2) Add 20 parts soap powder or 28 parts flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix 
               and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15 minutes).




























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        MANUFACTURING EXPLOSIVES                                        89


                       EGG SYSTEM
        
             The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame 
        fuel.
        
             MATERIALS 
              Gasoline      
        
              Egg Whites    
        
              Table Salt or any one of the following:
        
                   Ground Coffee      (3 parts)
        
                   Dried Tea Leaves   (3 parts) 
        
                   Cocoa              (3 parts)
        
                   Sugar              (2 parts)
        
                   Saltpeter (Niter)  (1 part)
                    (Potassium Nitrate)      
        
                   Epson salts        (1 part)
        
                   Washing soda       (2 parts)
                     (Sal soda)    
        
                   Baking soda        (1-1/2 parts)
        
                   Aspirin            (1-1/2 parts)
                                        
             CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing 
        the flame fuel. NO SMOKING!
        
             (1) Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg 
               into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
        
                 NOTE: DO NOT GET THE YELLOW EGG YOLK MIXED INTO THE EGG WHITE. If 
               egg yolk gets into the egg white, discard the egg.
        
             (2) Pour 14 parts egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and 
               add 85 parts gasoline.
        
             (3) Add the 1 part salt (or other additive, using indicated parts) to 
               the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (about 5 to 10 
               minutes).
        
             NOTE: A thicker flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in 
        hot (65 C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temper
        ature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE).
        





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        90                        The Survivalist's Second Strike Handbook


                       WAX SYSTEM
        
             Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as a 
        flame fuel.
        
             MATERIALS 
              Gasoline 
        
              Wax (Ozocerite, Mineral wax,  
                   fossil wax, ceresin wax   
                   beeswax)      
                                             
             (1) Melt 20 parts wax and 80 parts gasoline in jar or bottle which has 
               been placed in a hot water bath.
        
             (2) When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water 
               bath to cool slowly to room temperature.
        
             NOTE: If a gel does not form, add additional wax (up to 40% by volume) 
        and repeat the above steps. If no gel forms with 40% wax, make a Lye solution 
        by dissolving a small amount of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in an equal amount of  
        water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shake 
        bottle until a gel forms.
        
        
             OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
        
                  CHLORINE/SUGAR
        
             MATERIALS                    EQUIPMENT
        
              Granulated Pool Chlorine      2 Liter Soda Bottle 
               (At least 75% calcium 
                hypochlorite)
        
              Sugar
              
              Water
        
             (1) Mix part chlorine with one part sugar in the dry 2 liter bottle.
        
             (2) Add enough water to make the mixture soupy.
        
             (3) IMMEDIATELY, put the cap on and throw it away! (It splatters all 
               kinds of blinding and noxious chemicals when it goes off).
        
             As the sugar and chlorine dissolve in the water they will react with each 
        other. The bomb is about as loud as an M-80.  The bomb will take anywhere from 
        30 seconds to 5 minutes to go off, so if it doesn't explode still stay away 
        and come back the next day to examine it. If it doesn't work try adjusting the 
        amounts of sugar and chlorine.
        





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