Subj : Re: Child-proofing tank?
To   : All
From : The Outcaste
Date : Tue May 18 2004 11:46 pm

On 18 May 2004 16:37:46 -0400, asb@cc.gatech.edu (Amy S. Bruckman)
bubbled forth the following:

>My son is just learning to crawl, and I'm concerned that he's going to
>pull our fish tank crashing down on his head!  Can anyone recommend
>a tank base that will be really stable on an old, uneven hardwood floor?
>
>We have a 20 gallon long tank.  My current tank base is hollow with a
>door in the front to keep equipment.  The weight of the tank is
>distributed around the perimeter of the base.  (It doesn't have legs--
>the whole perimeter of the rectangular shape touches the floor.)
>Since our floors are uneven, I had to shim it with cardboard to make
>it stable.  I can latch/nail the door shut so the door doesn't act as
>a lever to destabilize the weight, and keep the chemicals on a high
>shelf.  But even with that, I'm concerned that it might be possible to
>tip it over. (Heck, just start picking away at the cardboard shim....)
>
>All suggestions appreciated!
>
>-- Amy, asb@cc.gatech.edu
>
>p.s. He loves the fishies.  Stares at them and stares at them and
>smiles.  :-)

Assuming standard stud type wall, take a 2" x 2" board the same width
as the stand and screw it horizontally to the wall behind the tank.
Make sure you get it screwed into at least 2 studs.

Next, 2 short pieces of pine/oak 1" x 2" or 1" x 3" stained to match
the stand are screwed onto the sides of the stand and to the ends of
the 2" x 2".

A less visible approach is to cut the 2" x 2" shorter than the stand,
then use a metal "L" bracket screwed to the back of the stand and the
end of the 2" x 2" board.

If the tank is close enough to the wall, you can just run long screws
with washers through the back of the stand into the 2" x 2".

Another option is to use "L" brackets and fasten the base of the stand
to the floor, assuming you don't mind putting holes in the hardwood
floor.

HTH

Jerry
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