# 2026-06-26 - A Day In Old Athens by William Stearns Davis
       
       I don't remember learning much about Greek history in school.  I
       vaguely recall an English teacher telling the story of the Trojan
       horse and then mentioning the Iliad and the Odyssey.  Perhaps I
       just forgot parts of the curriculum.  Anyhow, i've always imagined
       ancient Greece through rose-colored lenses as some golden age that
       inspired Western civilization.
       
       Recently i read The Echo of Greece by Edith Hamilton [1].  This
       broadened my perspective a little.  I still felt that my
       "mental map" needed to be fleshed out.  So i selected
       A Day In Old Athens by William Stearns Davis to read next.
       
       This is the second book i've read by this author.  In 2012 i read
       Life on a Medieaval Barony [2], which was a real treat.
       
       What a book!  I reviewed the maps [5], then stepped into the time
       machine and set the dial to 360 B.C.  What i saw next blew the
       rose-colored goggles right off my face.  The more i learned about
       ancient Greece, the less ideal it appeared.  Ancient Athens had
       a host of social ills and -isms.  And it's all told as though by
       Vincent Price [4], sitting in a tall chair and narrating with a
       smile.
       
       Neither Edith Hamilton nor William Stearns Davis mentioned the slave
       operated Laurion silver mine [3] outside of Athens.  At one time it
       was the major economic driver in Athens.  Wikipedia says it was
       re-opened in 370 B.C. and was more successful than expected,
       resulting in an economic boom.  That means that the mine would have
       been in operation during our hypothetical visit in 360 B.C.
       
       What follows are excerpts from the book with my comments in brackets.
       
       # Preface
       
       This little book tries to describe what an intelligent person would
       see and hear in ancient Athens, if by some legerdemain [they] were
       translated to the fourth century B.C. and conducted about the city
       under competent guidance.
       
       The year 360 B.C. has been selected for the hypothetical time of this
       visit, not because of any special virtue in that date, but because
       Athens was then architecturally almost perfect, [its] civic and [its]
       social life seemed at their best...
       
       # Chapter 1: The Physical Setting of Athens
       
       To three ancient nations the [people] of the twentieth century owe an
       incalculable debt.  To the Jews we owe most of our notions of
       religion; to the Romans we owe traditions and examples in law,
       administration, and the general management of human affairs which
       still keep their influence and value; and finally, to the Greeks we
       owe nearly all our ideas as to the fundamentals of art, literature,
       and philosophy, in fact, of almost the whole of our intellectual
       life. ... When we examine closely, we see that the civilized life of
       Greece, during the centuries when [it] was accomplishing the most,
       was peculiarly centered at Athens.  Without Athens, Greek history
       would lose three quarters of its significance, and modern life and
       thought would become infinitely the poorer.
       
       Because, then, the contributions of Athens to our own life are so
       important, because they touch (as a Greek would say) upon almost
       every side of "the true, the beautiful, and the good," it is obvious
       that the outward conditions under which this Athenian genius
       developed deserve our respectful attention.
       
       To understand the Athenian civilization and genius it is not enough
       to know the outward history of the times, the wars, the laws, and the
       lawmakers.  We must see Athens as the average [person] saw it and
       lived in it from day to day, and _then_ perhaps we can partially
       understand how it was that during the brief but wonderful era of
       Athenian freedom and prosperity [*], Athens was able to produce so
       many [people] of commanding genius...
       
       [*] That era may be assumed to begin with the battle of Marathon (490
       B.C.), and it certainly ended in 322 B.C., when Athens passed
       decisively under the power of Macedonia...
       
       Attica was a very small country according to modern notions, and
       Athens the only large city therein.  The land barely covered some 700
       square miles...  It was thus far smaller than the smallest of our
       American "states" (Rhode Island = 1250 square miles), and was not so
       large as many American counties. ... Yet small as it was, the hills
       inclosing it to the west, the seas pressing it form the northeast and
       south, gave it a unity and isolation all its own. ... Attica was thus
       distinctly separated from the rest of Greece.
       
       This triangle of Attica had its peculiar shortcomings and virtues.
       It was for the most part stony and unfertile.  Only a shallow layer
       of good soil covered a part of its hard foundation rock, which often
       in turn lay bare on the surface.  The Athenian farmer had a sturdy
       struggle to win a scanty crop, and about the only products [one]
       could ever raise in abundance for export were olives (which seemed to
       thrive on scanty soil and scanty rainfall) and honey, the work of the
       mountain bees.
       
       All Greece, to be sure, was favored by the natural beauty of its
       atmosphere, seas, and mountains, but Attica was perhaps the most
       favored portion of all...
       
       In the Athens of to-day it is reckoned that the year averages
       179 days in which the sun is not concealed by clouds one instant; and
       157 days more when the sun is not hidden more than half an hour.
       Ancient Athens was surely not more cloudy.  Nevertheless, despite this
       constant sunshine and a southern latitude, Athens was stricken
       relatively seldom with semitropical heat.  The sea was a good friend,
       bringing tempering breezes.  In the short winter there might be a
       little frost, a little snow, and a fair supply of rain.  For the rest
       of the year, one golden day was wont to succeed another, with the sun
       and the sea breeze in ever friendly rivalry.
       
       The climate saved the Athenians from being obliged to wage a stern
       warfare with nature as did the northern peoples.  Their life and
       civilization could be one developed essentially "in the open air"...
       
       The city lay in a plain, somewhat in the south central part of
       Attica, and about four miles back from the sea.
       
       We may select the year 360 B.C. At that time Athens had recovered
       from the ravages of the Peloponnesian War, while the Macedonian peril
       had not as yet become menacing.  The great public buildings were
       nearly all completed.  No signs of material decadence were visible,
       and if Athens no longer possessed the wide naval empire of the days
       of Pericles, [its] fleets and [its] armies were still formidable.
       The harbors were full of commerce; the philosophers were teaching
       their pupils in the groves and porticoes; the democratic constitution
       was entirely intact.
       
       # Chapter 2: The First Sights in Athens
       
       There are few late risers at Athens; the Council of Five Hundred, the
       huge Jury Courts, and the Public Assembly (if it has met to-day) are
       appointed to gather at sunrise.  The plays in the theater, which,
       however, are given only on certain festivals, begin likewise at
       sunrise.  The philosophers say that "the [person] who would
       accomplish great things must be up while yet it is dark."
       
       ...hither and thither bevies of sturdy slave girls, carrying graceful
       pitchers on their heads, are hurrying towards the fountains which
       gush cool water at most of the street corners.  Theirs is a highly
       necessary task, for few or no houses have their own water supply...
       
       [The streets] are only fifteen feet wide or even less,--intolerable
       alleys a later age would call them,--and dirty to boot.  Sometimes
       they are muddy, more often extremely dusty.  Worse still, they are
       contaminated by great accumulations of filth; for the city is without
       an efficient sewer system or regular scavengers.
       
       The narrow, dirty, ill-paved streets are also very crooked.  One can
       readily be lost in a labyrinth of filthy little lanes the moment one
       quits the few main thoroughfares.
       
       There are no street numbers.  There are often no street names.
       
       Every guess at the population of Athens rests on mere conjecture;
       yet, using the scanty data which we possess, it seems possible that
       _the population of all Attica_ at the height of its prosperity was
       about _200,000 free persons_ (including the _metics_--resident
       foreigners without citizenship); and a rather smaller number of
       slaves--say 150,000 or less.  Of this total of some 350,000, probably
       something under one half resided in the city of Athens during times
       of peace, the rest in the outlying farms and villages.  _Athens may
       be imagined as a city of about 150,000_--possibly a trifle more.
       
       When we investigate, we will find conditions like these--houses
       absolutely without plumbing, beds without sheets, rooms as hot or as
       cold as the outer air, only far more drafty.  We must cross rivers
       without bridges; we must fasten our clothes (or rather our "two
       pieces of cloth") with two pins instead of with a row of buttons; we
       must wear sandals without stockings (or go barefoot); must warm
       ourselves over a pot of ashes; judge plays or lawsuits on a cold
       winter morning sitting in the open air; we must study poetry with
       very little aid from books, geography without real maps, and politics
       without newspapers; and lastly, "we must learn how to be civilized
       without being comfortable!"
       
       Or, to reverse the case: we must understand that an Athenian would
       have pronounced our boasted "civilization" hopelessly artificial, and
       our life so dependent on outward material props and factors as to be
       scarcely worth the living.
       
       Preëminently Athens may be called the "City of the Simple Life."
       Bearing this fact in mind, we may follow the multitude and enter the
       Marketplace; or, to use the name that stamps it as a peculiarly Greek
       institution,--the Agora.
       
       # Chapter 3: The Agora and its Denizens
       
       Full market time!  Between nine and twelve A.M.
       
       The Agora is a square of spacious dimensions, planted here and there
       with graceful bay trees.  Its greatest length runs north and south.
       Ignoring for the time the teeming noisy swarms of humanity, let our
       eyes be directed merely upon the encircling buildings.  The place is
       almost completely enclosed by them, although not all are of equal
       elegance or pretension.  Some are temples of more or less size, like
       the temple of the "Paternal Apollo" near the southwestern angle; or
       the "Metroön," the fane of Cybele "the Great Mother of the Gods,"
       upon the south.  Others are governmental buildings; somewhat behind
       the Metroön rise the imposing pillars of the Council House, where
       the Five Hundred are deliberating on the policy of Athens; and hard
       by that is the Tholos, the "Round House," with a peaked,
       umbrella-shaped roof, beneath which the sacred public hearth fire is
       ever kept burning, and where the presiding Committee of the Council
       and certain high officials take their meals, and a good deal of state
       business is transacted.  The majority of these buildings upon the
       Agora, however, are covered promenades, porticoes, or stoæ.
       
       [Stoicism was named after the stoas because Zeno liked to hang out on
       there and converse.]
       
       The stoæ are combinations of rain shelters, shops, picture
       galleries, and public offices.
       
       Cross the square, and on the opposite side is one of the most
       magnificent of the porticoes, the "Painted Porch"
       ("_Stoa Poikilë_"), a long covered walk, a delightful refuge alike
       from sun and rain.  Almost the entire length of the inner walls (for
       it has columns only on the side of the Agora) is covered with vivid
       frescoes.  Here Polygnotus and other master painters have spread out
       the whole legendary story of the capture of Troy and of the defeat of
       the Amazons; likewise the more historical tale of the battle of
       Marathon.  Yet another promenade, the "Stoa of Zeus," is sacred to
       Zeus, Giver of Freedom.  The walls are not frescoed, but hung with
       the shields of valiant Athenian warriors.
       
       If an Athenian has no actual business to transact, [they] will at
       least go to the Agora to get the morning news.  Two turns under the
       "Painted Porch" will tell [them] the last rumor...
       
       The major part of the square is covered with little booths of boards
       and wicker work, very frail and able to be folded up, probably every
       night.  There are little lanes winding amid these booths; and each
       manner of huckster has its own especial "circle" or section of the
       market.  "Go to the wine," "to the fish," "to the myrtles"
       (_i.e._ the flowers), are common directions for finding difficult
       parts of the Agora.
       
       Lentils and peas can be had either raw, or cooked and ready to eat on
       the spot.
       
       To have a social gathering without garlands, in short, is impossible.
       ... The usual garland was made of myrtle or ivy and then entwined
       with various flowers.
       
       Athenians boast themselves of being no hearty "meat eaters" like
       their Bœotian neighbors, but of preferring the more delicate fish.
       No dinner party is successful without a seasonable course of fish.
       
       One [fact] is the extraordinarily large proportion of _men_ among the
       moving multitudes.  Except for the bread women and the flower girls,
       hardly one female is to be found among the sellers.  Among the
       purchasers there is not a single reputable lady.  No Athenian
       gentlewoman dreams of frequenting the Agora.  Even a poor man's wife
       prefers to let her spouse do the family marketing.  As for the
       "men folk," the average gentleman will go daily indeed to the Agora,
       but if he is really pretentious, it will be merely to gossip and to
       meet his friends; a trusted servant will attend to the regular
       purchasing.
       
       Another thing is striking.  The average poor Athenian seems to have
       no purse.  Or rather he uses the purse provided by nature.  At every
       booth one can see unkempt buyers solemnly taking their small change
       from their mouths.
       
       "Fixed prices" are absolutely unknown.  The slightest transaction
       involves a war of bargaining.
       
       There is great _political_ democracy in Athens, but not so much
       _social_ democracy.  "Leisure," _i.e._ exemption from every kind of
       sordid, money-getting, hard work, is counted the true essential for a
       respectable existence, and to live on the effort of others and to
       devote oneself to public service or to letters and philosophy is the
       open satisfaction or the private longing of every Athenian.
       
       This habit of genteel idleness naturally develops various peculiar
       institutions.  For example, the barber shops are almost club rooms.
       Few Hellenes at this time shave their beards, but to go with unkempt
       whiskers and with too long hair is most disgraceful.  The barber
       shops, booths, or little rooms let into the street walls of the
       houses, are therefore much frequented.
       
       Alexander the Great (336-323 B.C.) required his soldiers to be shaved
       (as giving less grasp for the enemy!), and the habit then spread
       generally through the whole Hellenic world.
       
       # Chapter 4: The Athenian House and its Furnishings
       
       We observe that almost the entire crowd leaving the Agora goes on
       foot.  To ride about in a chariot is a sign of undemocratic
       presumption; while only women or sick men will consent to be borne in
       a litter.
       
       As we enter behind him (carefully advancing with right foot foremost,
       for it is bad luck to tread a threshold with the _left_) we notice
       above the lintel some such inscription as "Let no evil enter here!"
       or "To the Good Genius," then a few steps through a narrow passage
       bring us into the _Aula_, the central court, the indispensable
       feature of every typical Greek house.
       
       All domestic architecture, later investigators will discover, falls
       into two great categories--of the northern house and the southern
       house.  The northern house begins with a single large room,
       "the great hall," then lesser rooms are added to it.  It gets its
       light from windows in the outer walls, and it is covered by a single
       steep roof.  The southern (Greek and Oriental) house is a building
       inclosing a rectangular court.  The rooms, many or few, get their
       light from this court, while they are quite shut off from the world
       outside.  All in all, for warm climates this style of house is far
       more airy, cool, comfortable than the other.  The wide open court
       becomes the living room of the house save in very inclement
       weather.
       
       [The southern house sounds like a Japanese or Roman design.]
       
       Dark, ill ventilated, and most scantily furnished, it is no wonder
       that the average Athenian loves the Agora better than his chamber.
       
       Directly behind the open court is a sizable chamber forming a passage
       to the inner house.  This chamber is the _Andron_, the dining hall
       and probably the most pretentious room in the house.
       
       In the rear wall of the Andron facing the Andronitis is a solid door.
       We are privileged guests indeed if we pass it.  Only the father,
       sons, or near male kinsmen of the family are allowed to go inside,
       for it leads into the _Gynæconitis_, the hall of the women.  To
       thrust oneself into the Gynæconitis of even a fairly intimate friend
       is a studied insult at Athens, and sure to be resented by bodily
       chastisement, social ostracism, and a ruinous legal prosecution.  The
       Gynæconitis is in short the Athenian's holy of holies.  Their women
       are forbidden to participate in so much of public life that their own
       peculiar world is especially reserved to them.  To invade this world
       is not bad breeding; it is social sacrilege.
       
       Houses of more than two stories seem to have been unknown in Athens.
       
       But the average citizen is also a householder, because forsooth
       houses are very cheap.  The main cost is probably for the land.  The
       chief material used in building, sun-dried brick, is very
       unsubstantial, and needs frequent repairs, but is not expensive.
       Demosthenes the Orator speaks of a "little house" worth only seven
       minæ [about $126.00 (1914) or $2,242.80 (2000)], and this is not the
       absolute minimum.  A very rich banker has had one worth 100 minæ
       [about $1,800.00 (1914) or $32,040.00 (2000)], and probably this is
       close to the maximum.
       
       This material was so friable and poor that the Greek burglar was
       known as a "Wall-digger."  It did not pay him to pick a lock; it was
       simpler for him to quarry his way through the wall with a pickax.
       
       These houses, even owned by the lordly rich, are surprisingly simple
       in their furnishings.  The accumulation of heavy furniture, wall
       decorations, and bric-a-brac which will characterize the dwellings of
       a later age, would be utterly offensive to an Athenian--contradicting
       all his ideas of harmony and "moderation."
       
       Oriental carpets are indeed met with, but they are often used as wall
       draperies or couch covers rather than upon the floors.  Greek costume
       is so simple that there is small need for elaborate chests of
       drawers, and a line of pegs upon the wall cares for most of the
       family wardrobe.
       
       All this is true; yet what furniture one finds is fashioned with
       commendable grace. ... Moreover, the different household vessels, the
       stone and bronze lamps, the various table dishes, even the common
       pottery put to the humblest uses, all have a beauty, a chaste
       elegance, a saving touch of deft ornamentation, which transforms them
       out of "kitchen ware" into works of art.
       
       Of course the well-to-do Athenian is proud to possess certain
       "valuables."  He will have a few silver cups elegantly chased, and at
       least one diner's couch in the _andron_ will be made of rare imported
       wood, and be inlaid with gilt or silver.  On festival days the house
       will be hung with brilliant and elaborately wrought tapestries which
       will suddenly emerge from the great chests.  Also, despite frowns and
       criticisms, the custom is growing of decorating one's walls with
       bright-lined frescoes after the manner of the Agora colonnades.  In
       the course of a few generations the homes of the wealthier Greeks
       will come to resemble those of the Romans, such as a later age has
       resurrected at Pompeii.
       
       # Chapter 5: The Women of Athens
       
       Over this typical Athenian home reigns the wife of the master.
       Public opinion frowns upon celibacy, and there are relatively few
       unmarried men in Athens.  An Athenian girl is brought up with the
       distinct expectation of matrimony.  Opportunities for a romance
       almost never will come her way; but it is the business of her parents
       to find her a suitable husband. ... Besides she will be "given away"
       when only about fifteen...
       
       If a young man (who will marry at about thirty) is independent in
       life, the negotiations will be with him directly.  If he is still
       dependent on the paternal allowance, the two sets of parents will
       usually arrange matters themselves...
       
       The dowry was a great protection to the bride.  If her husband
       divorced her (as by law he might), the dowry must be repaid to her
       guardians with 18% interest.
       
       Sometimes marriages are arranged in which any sentiment is obviously
       prohibited.  A father can betroth his daughter by will to some
       kinsman, who is to take her over as his bride when he takes over the
       property.  A husband can bequeath his wife to some friend who is
       likely to treat her and the orphan children with kindness.  Such
       affairs occur every day.  Do the Athenian women revolt at these
       seemingly degrading conditions, wherein they are handed around like
       slaves, or even cattle?--According to the tragic poets they do.
       
       Despite the suggestions in the poets, probably the normal Athenian
       woman is neither degraded nor miserable.  If she is a girl of good
       ancestry and the usual bringing up, she has never expected any other
       conditions than these.  She knows that her parents care for her and
       have tried to secure for her a husband who will be her guardian and
       solace when they are gone.
       
       An Athenian never allows his wife to visit the Agora.  She cannot
       indeed go outside the house without his express permission, and only
       then attended by one or two serving maids; public opinion will
       likewise frown upon the man who allowed his wife to appear in public
       too freely...
       
       Assuredly the Athenian house mother... has her own home problems and
       confronts them well.  A dozen or twenty servants must be kept busy.
       From her, all the young children must get their first education, and
       the girls probably everything they are taught until they are married.
       
       Probably, too, the family will own a country farm, and spend a part
       of the year thereon.  Here she will be allowed a delightful freedom
       of movement, impossible in the closely built city.  All in all, then,
       she will complain of too much enforced activity rather than of too
       much idleness.
       
       # Chapter 6: Athenian Costume
       
       Two general styles of garment have divided the allegiance of the
       world,--the clothes that are _put on_ and the clothes that are
       _wrapped around_.  The former style, with its jackets, trousers, and
       leggings, is not absolutely unknown to the Athenians,--their old
       enemies, the Persians, wear these; but such clumsy, inelegant
       garments are despised and ridiculed as fit only for the "Barbarians"
       who use them.  They are not merely absurdly homely; they cannot even
       be thrown off promptly in an emergency, leaving the glorious human
       form free to put forth any noble effort.  The Athenians wear the
       wrapped style of garments, which are, in final analysis, one or two
       large square pieces of cloth flung skillfully around the body and
       secured by a few well-placed pins.  This costume is infinitely
       adjustable; it can be expanded into flowing draperies or contracted
       into an easy working dress by a few artful twitches.  It can be
       nicely adjusted to meet the inevitable sense of "beauty" bred in the
       bone of every Athenian.  True, on the cold days of midwinter the
       wearers will go about shivering; but cold days are the exception,
       warm days the rule, in genial Attica.
       
       The Persians no doubt learned to use this style of garment during
       their life on the cold, windy steppes of Upper Asia, before they won
       their empire in the more genial south.
       
       The whole civilization of Athens was, of course, based on a climate
       in which artificial heat would be very little needed.
       
       This simplicity of costume has produced certain important results.
       There are practically no tailors in Athens, only cloth merchants,
       bleachers, and dyers.
       
       The essential garments of an Athenian man are only two--the _chiton_
       and the _himation_.  The chiton may be briefly described as an oblong
       of woolen cloth large enough to wrap around the body somewhat
       closely, from the neck down to just above the knees.  The side left
       open is fastened by fibulæ--elegantly wrought pins perhaps of silver
       or gold; in the closed side there is a slit for the arm.  There is a
       girdle, and, if one wishes, the skirt of the chiton may be pulled up
       through it, and allowed to hang down in front, giving the effect of a
       blouse.
       
       The himation is even simpler than the chiton.  It is merely a
       generous oblong woolen shawl.  There are innumerable ways of
       arranging it according to the impulse of the moment; but usually it
       has to be worn without pins, and that involves wrapping it rather
       tightly around the body, and keeping one of the hands confined to
       hold the cloak in place.  That is no drawback, however, to a genteel
       wearer.  It proclaims to the world that _he_ does not have to work,
       wearing his hands for a living; therefore he can keep them politely
       idle.
       
       Workingmen often wore no himation, and had a kind of chiton
       (an exömis) which was especially arranged to leave them with free
       use of their arms.
       
       There is a third garment sometimes worn by Athenians.  Young men who
       wish to appear very active, and genuine travelers, also wear a
       _chlamys_, a kind of circular mantle or cape which swings jauntily
       over their shoulders, and will give good protection in foul weather.
       
       There are almost no other masculine garments.  No shirts (unless the
       chiton be one), no underwear.  In their costume, as in so many things
       else, the Athenians exemplify their oft-praised virtue of simplicity.
       
       The dress of the women is like that of the men, but differs, of
       course, in complexity.  They also have a chiton, which is more
       elaborately made, especially in the arrangement of the blouse...
       
       A Greek lady again cannot imitate her husband, and appear in public
       in her chiton only.  A himation, deftly adjusted, is absolutely
       indispensable whenever she shows herself outside the house.
       
       Children wear miniature imitations of the dress of their elders.
       Boys are taught to toughen their bodies by refraining from thick
       garments in cold weather.  In hot weather they can frequently be seen
       playing about with very little clothing at all!
       
       Upon his feet the Athenian frequently wears nothing.  He goes about
       his home barefoot; and not seldom he enjoys the delight of running
       across the open greensward with his unsandaled feet pressing the
       springing ground; but normally when he walks abroad, he will wear
       _sandals_, a simple solid pair of open soles tied to his feet by
       leather thongs passing between the toes.  For hard country walking
       and for hunting there is something like a high leather boot, though
       doubtless these are counted uncomfortable for ordinary wear.
       
       Actors, too, wore a leather boot with high soles to give them extra
       height--the _cothurnus_.
       
       # Chapter 7: The Slaves
       
       The Athenians never had the absurd armies of house slaves which
       characterized Imperial Rome; still the numbers of their domestic
       servants were, from a modern standpoint, extremely large.
       
       No prominent Greek thinker seems to contest the righteousness and
       desirability of slavery.  It is one of the usual, nay, inevitable,
       things pertaining to a civilized state.
       
       [
       Edith Hamilton wrote in The Echo of Greece:
       
       > Plato could not look at the matter comfortably.
       >
       > The attitude in [Menander's] plays toward slavery is proof enough
       > by itself that the Athenians of the day were not at their ease
       > about slaves.
       >
       > ...the great school of the Stoics, most widely spread of Greek
       > philosophies, was denouncing [slavery] as an intolerable wrong.
       ]
       
       There are two great sources of slave supply: the Asia Minor region
       (Lydia and Phrygia, with Syria in the background), and the Black Sea
       region, especially the northern shores, known as Scythia.  It is
       known to innumerable heartless "traders" that human flesh commands a
       very high price in Athens or other Greek cities.
       
       A small but fairly constant supply of slaves would come from the
       seizure of the persons and families of bankrupt debtors...
       
       Even if a slave becomes freed, [they don't] become an Athenian
       citizen; [they are] only a "metic," a resident foreigner, and [their]
       old master, or some other Athenian, must be [their] patron and
       representative in every kind of legal business.
       
       The community, no less than an individual, can own slaves just as it
       can own warships and temples.  Athens owns "city slaves" (_Demosioi_)
       of several varieties. ...
       
       But chiefest of all, _the city owns its public police force_.  The
       "Scythians" they are called from their usual land of origin, or the
       "bowmen," from their special weapon, which incidentally makes a
       convenient cudgel in a street brawl.  There are 1200 of them, always
       at the disposal of the city magistrates.  They patrol the town at
       night, arrest evil-doers, sustain law and order in the Agora, and
       especially enforce decorum...
       
       # Chapter 8: The Children
       
       Public opinion, as well as the law, allows a father (at least if he
       has one or two children already) to exercise a privilege [of deciding
       whether to keep the child.] ... He has until the fifth day after the
       birth to decide.  In the interval he can utter the fatal words,
       "Expose it!"  The helpless creature is then put in a rude cradle, or
       more often merely in a shallow pot and placed near some public place;
       _e.g._ the corner of the Agora, or near a gymnasium, or the entrance
       to a temple.  Here it will soon die of mere hunger and neglect unless
       rescued.
       
       The harpies who raise slaves and especially slave girls, for no
       honest purposes, are prompt to pounce upon any promising looking
       infant.  They will rear it as a speculation; if it is a girl, they
       will teach it to sing, dance, play.  The race of light women in
       Athens is thus really recruited from the very best families.  The
       fact is well known, but it is constantly winked at.
       
       [I believe the author used the term "harpies" in a pejorative sense,
       not as a literal name nor as a mythological reference.]
       
       The first seven years of a Greek boy's life are spent with his nurses
       and his mother.  Up to that time his father takes only unofficial
       interest in his welfare.  Once past the first perilous "five days,"
       an Athenian baby has no grounds to complain of his treatment.  Great
       pains are taken to keep him warm and well nourished.  A wealthy
       family will go to some trouble to get him a skilful nurse, those from
       Sparta being in special demand, as knowing the best how to rear
       healthy infants.
       
       Until about seven years old brothers and sisters grow up in the
       _Gynæconitis_ together.  Then the boys are sent to school.  The
       girls will continue about the house until the time of their marriage.
       It is only in the rarest of cases that the parents feel it needful to
       hire any kind of tutor for _them_.  What the average girl knows is
       simply what her mother can teach her.  Perhaps a certain number of
       Athenian women (of good family, too) are downright illiterate; but
       this is not very often the case. A normal girl will learn to read and
       write, with her mother for school mistress.  Very probably she will
       be taught to dance, and sometimes to play on some instrument...  Much
       more important it is that she should know how to weave, spin,
       embroider, dominate the cook, and superintend the details of a dinner
       party.  She will have hardly time to learn these matters thoroughly
       before she is "given a husband," and her childhood days are forever
       over.
       
       Plato suggested in his _Republic_ (V. 451 f.) that women should
       receive the same educational opportunities as the men.  This was a
       proposition for Utopia and never struck any answering chord.
       
       # Chapter 9: The Schoolboys of Athens
       
       Education is not compulsory by law in Athens, but the father who
       fails to give his son at least a modicum of education falls under a
       public contempt, which involves no slight penalty. ... "He can
       neither swim nor say his letters," is a common phrase for describing
       an absolute idiot.
       
       _Character not book-learning, is the main object of Athenian
       Education_, _i.e._ to make the boy self-contained, modest, alert,
       patriotic, a true friend, a dignified gentleman, able to appreciate
       and participate in all that is true, harmonius, and beautiful in
       life.  To that end his body must be trained, not apart from, but
       along with his mind. ... Also after he is fairly in school
       "the teacher is enjoined to pay more attention to his morals and
       conduct than to his progress in reading and music."
       
       It is a great day for an Athenian boy when he is given a pedagogue.
       This slave (perhaps purchased especially for the purpose) is not his
       teacher, but he ought to be more than ordinarily honest, kindly, and
       well informed.  His prime business is to accompany the young master
       everywhere out-of-doors, especially to the school and to the
       gymnasium; to carry his books and writing tablets; to give informal
       help upon his lessons; to keep him out of every kind of mischief; to
       teach him social good manners; to answer the thousand questions a
       healthy boy is sure to ask; and finally, in emergencies, if the
       schoolmaster or his father is not at hand, to administer a needful
       whipping.
       
       As early as Solon's day (about 590 B.C.) a law had to be passed
       forbidding schools to open _before_ daybreak, or to be kept open
       after dusk.
       
       Athenian schools have to be numerous, because they are small.
       
       The pupils sit on rude, low benches, each lad with his boxwood tablet
       covered with wax upon his lap, and presumably busy, scratching
       letters with his stylus.  This wax tablet was practically a slate.
       The letters written could be erased with the blunt upper end of the
       metallic stylus, and the whole surface of the tablet could be made
       smooth again by a judicious heating.
       
       As to the subjects studied, the Athenian curriculum is well fixed and
       limited: letters, music, and gymnastics.  Every lad must have a
       certain amount of these. ... The main effort with a young boy is
       surely to teach him to read and write.  And here must be recalled the
       relative infrequency of complete books in classic Athens.  To read
       public placards, inscriptions of laws, occasional epistles,
       commercial documents, etc., is probably, for many Athenians, reading
       enough.  The great poets he will learn by ear rather than by eye; and
       he may go through a long and respected life and never be compelled to
       read a really sizable volume from end to end.  So the teaching of
       reading is along very simple lines.  It is perhaps simultaneous with
       the learning of writing. ... Progress in mere literacy is very rapid.
       There is no waste of time on history, geography, or physical
       science... The whole effort is to develop a fair, noble, free, and
       lofty character, not to earn a living.
       
       It is for the developing of the best moral and mental qualities in
       the lads that they are compelled to memorize long passages of the
       great poets of Hellas. ... Even in the small school we visit, several
       of the pupils can repeat five or six long episodes from both the
       _Iliad_ and the _Odyssey_, and there is one older boy present (an
       extraordinary, but by no means an unprecedented case) who can repeat
       _both_ of the long epics word for word.
       
       Clearly the absence of many books has then its compensations.  The
       average Athenian lad has what seems to be a simply marvelous memory.
       
       [The same was true of indigenous oral traditions.]
       
       The tale of "George Washington and the cherry tree" would never have
       found favor in Athens.  The great Virginian would have been blamed
       for failing to concoct a clever lie.
       
       The study of foreign languages has no place in a Greek course of study.
       
       But the Athenian has a substitute for this omission of foreign
       language study: _Music_.  This is... practically the study of
       whatever will develop the noble powers of the emotions, as contrasted
       to the mere intellect.  Indeed everything which comes within the
       ample provinces of the nine Muses, even sober history, might be
       included in the term.  However, for special purposes, the study of
       "Music" may be considered as centering around playing instruments and
       singing.
       
       Learning to sing is probably the most important item, for every boy
       and man ought to be able to bear his part in the great chorals which
       are a notable element in most religious festivals; besides, a
       knowledge of singing is a great aid to appreciating lyric poetry, or
       the choruses in tragedy, and in learning to declaim.
       
       Very soft music, in "Lydian modes," is counted effeminate, fit only
       for the women's quarters and likely to do boys no good.  The riotous
       type also, of the "Ionic mode," is fit only for drinking songs and is
       even more under the ban.  What is especially in favor is the stern,
       strenuous Dorian mode.  This will make boys hardy, manly, and brave.
       Very elaborate music with trills and quavers is in any case frowned
       upon.  It simply delights the trained ear, and has no reaction upon
       the character; and of what value is a musical presentation unless it
       leaves the hearers and performer better, worthier men?  Let the
       average Athenian possess the opportunity, and he will infallibly
       stamp with disapproval a great part of both the popular and the
       classical music of the later ages.
       
       The "Phrygian mode" from which the "Ionic" was derived was still more
       demoralizing; it was counted "orgiastic," and proper only in certain
       excited religious rhapsodies.
       
       We have extremely few Greek melodies preserved to us and these few
       are not attractive to the modern ear.
       
       To have a pale, untanned skin was "womanish" and unworthy of a free
       Athenian citizen.
       
       By eighteen the young Athenian's days of study will usually come to a
       close.
       
       For the next year he will serve as a military guard at the Peiræus,
       and receive a certain training in soldiering.  The next year the state
       will present him with a new shield and spear, and he will have a
       taste of the rougher garrison duty at one of the frontier forts
       towards Bœtia or Megara.  Then he is mustered out. He is an ephebus
       no longer, but a full-fledged citizen, and all the vicissitudes of
       Athenian life are before him.
       
       These two years which the _ephebi_ of Athens had to serve under arms
       have been aptly likened to the military service now required of young
       men in European countries.
       
       # Chapter 10: The Physicians of Athens
       
       A slight but significant witness to the general healthiness of the
       Greeks is found in the very rare mention in their literature of such
       a common ill as _toothache_.
       
       [Dr. Weston Price said the same of indigenous people prior to
       adopting a modern diet.]
       
       There exist in Athens and in other Greek cities real sanataria; these
       are temples devoted to the healing gods...  Here the patient is
       expected to sleep over night in the temple, and the god visits him in
       a dream, and reveals a course of treatment which will lead to
       recovery. ... Nevertheless it is a great deal to convince the patient
       that he is sure of recovery, and that nobody less than a god has
       dictated the remedies.  Attached to the temple are skilled physicians
       to "interpret" the dream, and opportunities for prolonged residence
       with treatment by baths, purgation, dieting, mineral waters, sea
       baths, all kinds of mild gymnastics, etc.
       
       [Kind of like a medical vision quest.]
       
       These visits to the healing temples are, however, expensive: not
       everybody has entire faith in them; for many lesser ills also they
       are wholly unnecessary.  Let us look, then, at the regular
       physicians.
       
       There are salaried public medical officers in Athens, and something
       like a public dispensary where free treatment is given citizens in
       simple cases; but the average man seems to prefer his own doctor.  We
       may enter the office of Menon, a "regular private practitioner," and
       look about us.  The office itself is a mere open shop in the front of
       a house near the Agora; and, like a barber's shop is something of a
       general lounging place.  In the rear one or two young disciples
       (doctors in embryo) and a couple of slaves are pounding up drugs in
       mortars.  There are numbers of bags of dried herbs and little glass
       flasks hanging on the walls.  Near the entrance is a statue of
       Asclepius the Healer, and also of the great human founder of the real
       medical science among the Greeks--Hippocrates.
       
       Menon himself claims to have been a personal pupil of the great
       Hippocrates, and about every other reputable Greek physician will
       make the same claim.  He has studied more or less in a temple of
       Asclepius, and perhaps has been a member of the medical staff thereto
       attached.  He has also become a member of the Hippocratic
       brotherhood, a semi-secret organization, associated with the
       Asclepius cult, and cheerfully cherishing the dignity of the
       profession and the secret arts of the guild.
       
       Menon's skill as a physician and surgeon is considerable.  True, he
       has only a very insufficient conception of anatomy.  His
       _theoretical_ knowledge is warped, but he is a shrewd judge of human
       nature and his _practical_ knowledge is not contemptible. ... He has
       no modern anæsthetics or opium, but has a very insufficient
       substitute in mandragora.  He can treat simple diseases of the eye;
       and he knows how to put gold filling into teeth.  His surgical
       instruments, however, are altogether too primitive.  He is personally
       cleanly; but he has not the least idea of antiseptics; the result is
       that obscure internal diseases, calling for grave operations, are
       likely to baffle him.  He will refuse to operate, or if he does
       operate the chances are against the patient.  In other words, his
       medical skill is far in advance of his surgery.
       
       Seemingly a really serious operation was usually turned over by the
       local physician to a traveling surgeon, who could promptly disappear
       from the neighborhood if things went badly.
       
       He counts it part of his equipment to be able to persuade his
       patients, by all the rules of logic and rhetoric, to submit to
       disagreeable treatment; and for that end has taken lessons in
       informal oratory from Isocrates or one of his associates.  Some of
       Menon's competitors (feeling themselves less eloquent) have actually
       a paid rhetorician whom they can take to the bedside of a stubborn
       invalid, to induce him by irrefutable arguments to endure an
       amputation.
       
       There appears to be no law against anybody who wishes to pose as a
       physician, and to sell his inexperience and his quack nostrums.
       
       All in all, despite Menon's good intentions and not despicable skill,
       it is fortunate the gods have made "Good Health" one of their
       commonest gifts to the Athenians.  Constant exercise in the gymnasia,
       occasional service in the army, the absence of cramping and
       unhealthful office work, and a climate which puts out-of-door
       existence at a premium, secure for them a general good health...
       
       # Chapter 11: The Funerals
       
       The customary obol is put in the mouth of the corpse...  This was not
       originally (as later asserted) a fee to Charon the ferryman to Hades,
       but simply a "minimum precautionary sum, for the dead man's use"
       (Dr. Jane Harrison), placed in the mouth, where a Greek usually kept
       his small change.
       
       Religion seems to have very little place in the Athenian funeral:
       there are no priests present, no prayers, no religious hymns.  But
       the dead man is now conceived as being, in a very humble and
       intangible way, a deity himself: his good will is worth propitiating;
       his memory is not to be forgotten.
       
       # Chapter 12: Trade, Manufactures, and Banking
       
       To understand the full extent of Athenian commercial prosperity we
       must visit the Peiræus, yet in the main city itself will be found
       almost enough examples of the chief kinds of economic activity.
       
       Attica is the seat of much manufacturing.  Go to the suburbs:
       everywhere is the rank odor of the tanneries; down at the harbors are
       innumerable ship carpenters and sail and tackle makers, busy in the
       shipyards; from almost every part of the city comes the clang of
       hammer and anvil where hardware of all kinds is being wrought in the
       smithies; and finally the potter makers are so numerous as to require
       special mention hereafter.
       
       The competition of slave labor, however, tends to keep wages very
       low.  An unskilled laborer will have to be content with his 3 obols
       (9 cents [1914] or $1.51 [2000]) per day; but a trained workman will
       demand a drachma (18 cents [1914] or $3.02 [2000]) or even more.
       There are no labor unions or trade guilds.  A son usually, though not
       invariably, follows his father's profession.  Each industry and line
       of work tends to have its own little street or alley, preferably
       leading off the Agora.  "The Street of the Marble Workers," the
       "Street of the Box Makers," and notably the "Street of the Potters"
       contain nearly all the workshops of a given kind.
       
       Part of Athenian wealth comes from the busy factories, great and
       small, which seem everywhere; still more riches come in by the great
       commerce which will be found centered at the Peiræus.  Here is the
       spacious _Deigma_, a kind of exchange-house where ship masters can
       lay out samples of their wares on display, and sell to the important
       wholesalers...
       
       There are certain articles of which various districts make a
       specialty, and which Athens is constantly importing: Bœtia sends
       chariots; Thessaly, easy chairs; Chios and Miletos, bedding; and
       Miletos, especially, very fine woolens.  Greece in general looks to
       Syria and Arabia for the much-esteemed spices and perfumes; to Egypt
       for papyri for the book rolls; to Babylonia for carpets.  To discuss
       the whole problem of Athenian commerce would require a book in
       itself; but certain main facts stand out clearly.  One is that Attica
       [it]self has extremely few natural products to export--only [its]
       olive oil, [its] Hymettus honey, and [its] magnificent marbles...
       Again we soon notice the great part which _grain_ plays in Athenian
       commerce.  Attica raises such a small proportion of the necessary
       breadstuffs, and so serious is the crisis created by any shortage,
       that all kinds of measures are employed to compel a steady flow of
       grain from the Black Sea ports into the Peiræus.
       
       There is no one fixed standard of coinage for Greece, let alone the
       Barbarian world.  Athens strikes its money on a standard which has
       very wide acceptance, but Corinth has another standard, and a great
       deal of business is also transacted in Persian gold darics.  The
       result is that at the Peiræus and near the Agora are a number of
       little "tables" where alert individuals, with strong boxes beside
       them, are ready to sell foreign coins to would-be travelers, or
       exchange darics for Attic drachmæ, against a pretty favorable
       commission.
       
       Without the Arabic system of numerals, elaborate bookkeeping surely
       presented a sober face to the Greeks.  Their method of numeration was
       very much like that with the so-called Roman numerals.
       
       For more than two hundred years Attica has been supplying the world
       with a pottery which is in some respects superior to any that has
       gone before, and also (all things considered) to any that will
       follow, through night two and a half millenniums.  The articles are
       primarily tall vases and urns... however, besides the regular vases
       there is a great variety of dishes, plates, pitchers, bowls, and cups
       all of the same general pattern,--a smooth, black glaze covered with
       figures in the delicate red of the unglazed clay.  At first the
       figures had been in black and the background in red, but by about 500
       B.C. the superiority of the black backgrounds had been fully realized
       and the process perfected.  For a long time Athens had a monopoly of
       this beautiful earthenware, but now in 360 B.C. there are creditable
       manufactories in other cities, and especially in the Greek towns of
       Southern Italy.  The Athenian industry is, however, still
       considerable...
       
       # Chapter 13: The Armed Forces of Athens
       
       Every citizen, physically fit, is liable to military service from his
       eighteenth to his sixtieth year.  To make efficient soldiers is
       really the main end of the constant physical exercise.  If a young
       man takes pride in his hard and fit body, if he flings spears at the
       stadium, and learns to race in full armor, if he goes on long marches
       in the hot sun, if he sleeps on the open hillside, or lies on a bed
       of rushes watching the moon rise over the sea,--it is all to prepare
       himself for a worthy part in the "big day" when Athens will confront
       some old or new enemy on the battlefield.
       
       After a young "ephebus" has finished his two years of service in the
       garrisons he returns home subject to call at the hour of need.  When
       there is necessity to make up an army, enough men are summoned to
       meet the required number and no more.
       
       These shields are brilliantly painted, and although the Greeks have
       no heraldic devices, there are all manner of badges and
       distinguishing marks in vogue.  Thus all Theban shields are blazoned
       with a club; Sicyonian shields are marked with the initial "Sigma"
       (Σ), and we note that the Athenian shields are all marked Alpha
       (A).
       
       [Athenians] will also add, quite properly, that the army of Athens is
       in the main for home defense.  [Athens] does not claim to be a
       preëminently military state.  The glory of Athens has been the
       mastery of the sea.
       
       # Chapter 14: The Peiræus and the Shipping
       
       The Peiræus has all the life of the Athenian Agora many times
       multiplied.  Everywhere there is work and bustle. ... There is such
       confusion one can hardly analyze one's surroundings.  However, we
       soon discover the Peiræus has certain advantages over Athens itself.
       The streets are much wider and are quite straight, crossing at right
       angles...  Down at the water front of the main harbor ("the Peiræus"
       harbor to distinguish it from Zea and Munychia) we find about one
       third, nearest the entrance passage and called the Cantharus,
       reserved for the use of the war navy.  This section is the famous
       _Emporium_, which is such a repository of foreign wares that
       Isocrates boasts that here one can easily buy all those things which
       it is extremely hard to purchase anywhere else in Hellas.  Along the
       shore run five great stoas or colonnades, all used by the traders for
       different purposes;--among them are the Long Stoa (_Makra Stoa_), the
       _Deigma_ used as a sample house by the wholesalers, and the great
       Corn Exchange built by Pericles.  Close down near the wharves stands
       also a handsome and frequented temple, that of Athena Euploia
       (Athena, Giver of good Voyages), to whom many a shipman offers prayer
       ere hoisting sail, and many another comes to pay grateful vows after
       surviving a storm.
       
       The population contains a very high percentage of metics, and
       downright Barbarians,--indeed, long-bearded Babylonians, clean bronze
       Egyptians, grinning Ethiopians, never awaken the least comment, they
       are so familiar.
       
       The very biggest of these craft run up to 250 gross tons...  The
       average of the ships, however, will reckon only 30 to 40 tons or even
       smaller.  It is really a mistake, any garrulous sailor will tell us,
       to build merchant ships much bigger.  It is impossible to make
       sailing vessels of the Greek model and rig sail very close to the
       wind; and in every contrary breeze or calm, recourse must be had to
       the huge oars piled up along the gunwales.
       
       Indeed it was the superior discipline of the Athenian crews which in
       the days of Themistocles and Pericles gave Athens the supremacy of
       the seas.
       
       # Chapter 15: An Athenian Court Trial
       
       Athens is notorious for the fondness which [its] citizens display for
       litigation.  In fact it is a somewhat rare and exceptionally
       peaceable, harmless, and insignificant citizen who is not plaintiff
       or defendant in some kind of action every few years or so.  Says
       Aristophanes, "The cicada [grasshopper] sings for only a month, but
       the people of Athens are buzzing with lawsuits and trials their whole
       life long."
       
       Athens does not draw a sharp line between public and private
       litigation.  There is no "state" or "district attorney" to prosecute
       for the offenses against public order.  Any full citizen can
       prosecute anybody else upon such a criminal charge as murder, no less
       than for a civil matter like breach of contract.  All this leads to
       the growth of a mischievous clan--the _sycophants_.  These... are
       professional accusers who will prosecute almost any rich individual
       upon whom they think they can fasten some technical offense.  Their
       gains are from two quarters.  If they convict the defendant, about
       half of the fine or property taken will go to the informer.  But very
       likely there will be no trial.  The victim (either consciously
       guilty, or innocent but anxious to avoid the risk) will pay a huge
       blackmail at the first threat of prosecution, and the case is hushed
       up.
       
       This hearing before the magistrate is in any event an important part
       of the trial.  Here each side proffers the laws it cites to sustain
       its claims, and brings its witnesses, who can be more or less
       cross-examined.  All the pertinent testimony is now written down, and
       the tablets sealed up by the magistrate.  At the final trial this
       evidence will be merely _read_ to the jury, the witness in each
       instance standing up before the court and admitting when duly asked,
       "This is my testimony on the case."
       
       Free men testify under oath, but a slave's oath is counted worthless.
       The slaves may be the only important witnesses to a given act, but
       under only one condition can they testify.  With the consent of their
       master they may testify _under torture_.  It is a critical moment at
       this hearing when a litigant who is confident of his case proudly
       announces, "I challenge my enemy to put my slaves under torture"; or
       the other, attacking first, cries out, "I demand that my enemy submit
       his slaves to torture."  Theoretically the challenged party might
       refuse, practically a refusal is highly dangerous.  "If his slaves
       didn't know something bad, why were they kept silent?"  the jury will
       ask.  So the rack is brought forth. The wretched menials are
       stretched upon it.
       
       ...Athenian juries are very large; 201, 401, 501, 1001 are numbers
       heard of, and sometimes even greater. The more important the case,
       the larger the jury...
       
       Each court room had its distinguishing color.  There were about ten
       regular court rooms, besides some for special tribunals; _e.g._ the
       Areopagus for the trial of homicides.
       
       [The court door and police weapons are painted the same color.]
       
       The huge urns (one of bronze, one of wood) with narrow mouths are
       passed among the benches.  Each juror has two round bronze disks, one
       solid, one with a hole bored in the middle.  The solid acquit, the
       pierced ones convict.  A juror drops the ballot he wishes to count
       into the bronze urn; the other goes into the wooden urn.  The bronze
       urn is carried to the archon, and there is an uneasy hush while the
       401 ballots are counted by the court officers.
       
       [The first verdict is guilty or innocent.  If guilty, then both sides
       will propose a penalty and the jurors will cast a second verdict for
       the penalty.]
       
       The verdict of the dicastery is final.
       
       [There are no appeals to a higher court.]
       
       Greek courts can inflict death, exile, fines, but almost never
       imprisonment.  There is no "penitentiary" or "workhouse" in Athens;
       and the only use for a jail is to confine accused persons whom it is
       impossible to release on bail before their trial.  The Athens city
       jail ("The House," as it is familiarly called _Oikēma_) is a very
       simple affair, one open building, carelessly guarded and free to
       visitors all through the daylight.  The inmates have to be kept in
       heavy fetters, otherwise they would be sure to take flight; and
       indeed escapes from custody are somewhat common.
       
       An Athenian will regard locking a criminal up for a term of years as
       a very foolish and expensive proceeding.  If he has nothing wherewith
       to pay a round fine, why, simply send him into exile.  This penalty
       is direful indeed to a Greek.
       
       The execution of Athenian citizens, however, is extremely humane.
       The condemned is given a cup of poisonous hemlock juice and allowed
       to drink it while sitting comfortably among his friends in the
       prison. Little by little his body grows numb; presently he becomes
       senseless, and all is over without any pain.
       
       [Harry Tanner wrote in The Queer Thing About Sin that death by
       hemlock is a painful process involving convulsions, like a seizure.
       Elsewhere i read that it can be painless or painful depending on the
       dosage and how it is administered.]
       
       # Chapter 17: The Afternoon at the Gymnasia
       
       The Academy is worthy of the visit.  The park itself is covered with
       olive trees and more graceful plane trees.  The grass beneath us is
       soft and delightful to the bare foot (and nearly everybody, we
       observe, has taken off his sandals).  There are marble and bronze
       statues skillfully distributed amid the shrubbery--shy nymphs,
       peeping fauns, bold satyrs.  Yonder is a spouting fountain surmounted
       by a noble Poseidon with his trident; above the next fountain rides
       the ocean car of Amphitrite.  Presently we come to a series of low
       buildings.  Entering, we find them laid out in a quadrangle with
       porticoes on every side, somewhat like the promenades around the
       Agora.  Inside the promenades open a series of ample rooms for the
       use of professional athletes during stormy weather, and for the
       inevitable bathing and anointing with oil which will follow all
       exercise.
       
       It must be confessed that not everybody at the Academy comes here for
       physical or mental improvement.  We see a little group squatting and
       gesticulating earnestly under an old olive tree--they are obviously
       busy, not with philosophic theory, but with dice.  Again, two young
       men pass us presenting a curious spectacle.  They are handsomely
       dressed and over handsomely scented, but each carries carefully under
       each arm a small cock; and from time to time they are halted by
       fiends who admire the birds.  Clearly these worthies' main interests
       are in cockfighting; and they are giving their favorites
       "air and exercise" before the deadly battle, on which there is much
       betting, at the supper party that night.  Also the shouting and
       rumbling from a distance tells of the chariot course, where the sons
       of the more wealthy or pretentious families are lessening their
       patrimonies by training a "two" or a "four" to contend at the
       Isthmian games or at Olympia.
       
       All these things are true, and Athens makes full display here of the
       usual crop of knaves or fools.  Nevertheless this element is in the
       minority.  Here a little earlier or a little later than our visit
       (for just now he is in Sicily) one could see Plato himself--walking
       under the shade trees and expounding to a little trailing host of
       eager-eyed disciples the fundamental theories of his ideal Attic the
       philosophy, the poetry, the oration, which has been partly considered
       in the Agora this morning, and which will be further discussed at the
       symposium to-night.  Everything is entirely informal.  Even
       white-haired gentlemen do not hesitate to cast off chiton and
       himation and spring around nimbly upon the sands, to "try their
       distance" with the quoits, or show the young men that they have not
       forgotten accuracy with the javelin, or even, against men of their
       own age, to test their sinews in a mild wrestling bout. ... No one
       expects any great proficiency from most of those present.  It is
       enough to attempt gracefully, and to laugh merrily if you do not
       succeed.
       
       The Greek worship of the beautiful masculine form is something which
       the later world will never understand.  In this worship there is too
       often a coarseness, a sensual dross, over which a veil is wisely
       cast.  But the great fact of this worship remains: to the vast
       majority of Greeks "beauty" does not imply a delicate maid clad in
       snowy drapery; it implies a perfectly shaped, bronzed, and developed
       youth, standing forth in his undraped manhood for some hard athletic
       battle.  This ideal possesses the national life, and effects the
       entire Greek civilization.  Not beauty in innocent weakness, but
       beauty in resourceful strength...
       
       It is useless to talk to an Athenian of a "beautiful old age."  Old
       age is an evil to be borne with dignity, with resignation if needs
       be, to be fought against by every kind of bodily exercise; but to
       take satisfaction in it?--impossible.
       
       If the data of the ancients are to be believed, the Greeks achieved
       records in leaping far beyond those of any modern athletes, but it is
       impossible to rely on data of this kind.
       
       Indeed, the Greeks take all their foot races seriously, and there are
       plenty of instances when the victor has sped up to the goal, and then
       dropped dead before the applauding stadium.
       
       # Chapter 18: Athenian Cookery and the Symposium
       
       We have said very little of eating or drinking during our visit in
       Athens, for, truth to tell, the citizens try to get through the day
       with about as little interruption for food and drink as possible.
       But now, when warehouse and gymnasium alike are left to darkness, all
       Athens will break its day of comparative fasting.
       
       Roughly speaking, the Greeks anticipate the latter-day "Continental"
       habits in their meal hours.  The custom of Germans and of many
       Americans in having the heartiest meal at noonday would never appeal
       to them.  The hearty meal is at night, and no one dreams of doing any
       serious work after it.  When it is finished, there may be pleasant
       discourse or varied amusements, but never real business; and even if
       there are guests, the average dinner party breaks up early.  Early to
       bed and early to rise, would be a maxim indorsed by the Athenians.
       
       Promptly upon rising, our good citizen has devoured a few morsels of
       bread sopped in undiluted wine; that has been to him what "coffee and
       rolls" will be to the Frenchmen,--enough to carry him through the
       morning business, until near to noon he will demand something more
       satisfying.  He then visits home long enough to partake of a
       substantial déjeuner (_ariston_, first breakfast = _akratisma_).  He
       has one or two hot dishes--one may suspect usually warmed over from
       last night's dinner--and partakes of some more wine.  This _ariston_
       will be about all he will require until the chief meal of the
       day--the regular dinner (_deïpnon_) which would follow sunset.
       
       Often enough the citizen must dine alone at home with "only" his wife
       and children for company, but if possible he will invite friends
       (or get himself invited out). ... There are innumerable little eating
       clubs; the members go by rotation to their respective houses. ... In
       the fine weather picnic parties down upon the shore are common.
       
       Bread, oil, and wine, in short, are the three fundamentals of Greek
       diet.  With them alone man can live very healthfully and happily;
       without them elaborate vegetable and meat dishes are poor
       substitutes.
       
       All Greeks, however, drink their wine so diluted with water that it
       takes a decided quantity to produce a "reaction."  The average
       drinker takes three parts water to two of wine. ...equal parts
       "make men mad" as the poet says, and are probably reserved for very
       wild dinner parties.  As for drinking pure wine no one dreams of the
       thing--it is a practice fit for Barbarians.  There is good reason,
       however, for this plentiful use of water.  In the original state
       Greek wines were very strong, perhaps almost as alcoholic as
       whisky...
       
       No wine served in Athens, however, will appeal to a later-day
       connoisseur.  It is all mixed with resin, which perhaps makes it more
       wholesome, but to enjoy it then becomes an acquired taste.
       
       [Kind of like hops, bitters, mugwort, absinthe, gin, etc.]
       
       The Greeks seem to have cooked over a rather simple open fireplace
       with a wood or charcoal fire.  They had an array of cooking utensils,
       however, according to all our evidence, elaborate enough to gladden a
       very exacting modern _chef_.
       
       No ladies will be among these.  Had there been any women invited to
       the banquet, they would surely be creatures of no very honest sort;
       and hardly fit, under any circumstances, to darken the door of a
       respectable citizen.  The mistress and her maids are "behind the
       scenes."  There may be a woman among the hired entertainers provided,
       but for a refined Athenian lady to appear at an ordinary symposium is
       almost unthinkable.
       
       Soups are not unknown, and had they been served might have been eaten
       with spoons; but Athens like all the world is innocent of forks, and
       fingers take their place.  Each guest has a large piece of soft bread
       on which he wipes his fingers from time to time and presently casts
       it upon the floor.  When this first course is finished, the tables
       are all taken out to be reset, water is again poured over the hands
       of the guests, and garlands of flowers are passed.  The use of
       garlands is universal...
       
       A little wine is now passed about.  Then back come the tables with
       the second course--fruits, and various sweetmeats and confectionary
       with honey as the staple flavoring.  Before this disappears a goblet
       of unmixed wine is passed about, and everybody takes a sip:
       "To the Good Genius," they say as the cup goes round.
       
       So far we have witnessed not a symposium, but merely a dinner; and
       many a proper party has broken up when the last of the dessert has
       disappeared; but, after all, the drinking bout is the real crown of
       the feast.  It is not so much the wine as the things that go with the
       wine that are so delightful.  As to what these desirable condiments
       are, opinions differ.  Plato (who is by no means too much of a
       philosopher to be a real man of the world) says in his _Protagoras_
       that mere conversation is _the_ thing at a symposium.  But this
       ideal, though commended, is not always followed in decidedly
       intellectual circles. Zenophon shows us a select party wherein
       Socrates participated, in which the host has been fain to hire in a
       professional Syracusian entertainer with two assistants, a boy and a
       girl, who bring their performance to a climax by a very suggestive
       dumb-show play of the story of Bacchus and Ariadne.  Prodicus's
       friends, being solid, somewhat pragmatic men--neither young sports
       nor philosophers--steer a middle course.  There is a flute girl
       present, because to have a good symposium without some music is
       almost unimaginable; but she is discreetly kept in the background.
       
       Everybody must feel himself acting spontaneously and freely.  He must
       try to take his part in the conversation and neither speak too seldom
       nor too little.  It is not "good form" for two guests to converse
       privately among themselves, nor for anybody to dwell on unpleasant or
       controversial topics.
       
       By the time the craters are one third emptied the general
       conversation is beginning to be broken up.  It is time for various
       standard diversions.  Eunapius therefore begins by enjoining on each
       guest in turn to sing a verse in which a certain letter must not
       appear, and in event of failure to pay some ludicrous forfeit.  Thus
       the bald man is ordered to begin to comb his hair; the lame man (halt
       since the Mantinea campaign), to stand up and dance to the flute
       player, etc.  There are all kinds of guessing of riddles--often very
       ingenious as become the possessors of "Attic salt."  Another
       diversion is to compare every guest present to some mythical
       monster...  At some point in the amusement the company is sure to get
       to singing songs:--"Scolia"--drinking songs indeed, but often of a
       serious moral or poetic character...
       
       # Chapter 19: Country Life Around Athens
       
       The Ilissus, unlike its sturdier rival, the Cephisus, ran dry during
       the summer heats; but there was enough water along its bed to create
       a dense vegetation.
       
       The Athenians and Greeks in general live in a land of such natural
       beauty that they take this loveliness as a matter of course.  Very
       seldom do their poets indulge in deliberate descriptions of
       "beautiful landscapes"; but none the less the fair things of nature
       have penetrated deeply into their souls.  The constant allusions in
       Homer and the other masters of song to the great storm waves, the
       deep shades of the forest, the crystal brooks, the pleasant rest for
       wanderers under the shade trees, the plains bright with spring
       flowers, the ivy twining above a grave, the lamenting nightingale,
       the chirping cicada, tell their own story; men seldom describe at
       length what is become warp and woof of their inmost lives.
       
       As the plodding steeds take their way let us recall our Plato--his
       _Phædrus_, written probably not many years before this our
       visit.
       
       > Socrates is walking with Phædrus outside the walls, and urges the
       > latter: "Let us go to the Ilissus and sit down in some quiet spot."
       >
       > "I am fortunate," answers Phædrus, "in not having my sandals on,
       > and, as you never have any, we may go along the brook and cool our
       > feet.  This is the easiest way, and at midday is anything but
       > unpleasant."  He adds that they will go on to the tallest plane tree
       > in the distance, "where are shade and gentle breezes, and grass
       > whereon we may either sit or lie...  The little stream is
       > delightfully clear and bright.  I can fancy there might well be
       > maidens playing near [according to the local myth of Boreas's rape
       > of Orithyia]."
       >
       > And so at last they come to the place, when Socrates says: "Yes
       > indeed, a fair and shady resting place it is, full of summer sounds
       > and scents.  There is the lofty and spreading plane tree, and the
       > agnus castus, high and clustering in the fullest blossom and the
       > greatest fragrance, and the stream which flows beneath the plane
       > tree is deliciously cool to the feet.  Judging by the ornaments and
       > images [set] about, this must be a spot sacred to Achelous and the
       > Nymphs; moreover there is a sweet breeze and the grasshoppers are
       > chirruping; and the greatest charm of all is the grass like a
       > pillow, gently sloping to the head."
       
       There is another reason why the Athenians rejoice in the country.
       The dusty streets are at best a poor playground for the children, the
       inner court of the house is only a respectable prison for the wife.
       In the country the lads can enjoy themselves; the wife and the
       daughters can roam about freely with delightful absence of
       convention.  There will be no happier day in the year than when the
       master says, "Let us set out for the farm."
       
       * * *
       
       Another is the occasional olive tree we see standing, gnarled and
       venerable, but carefully fenced about; or even (not infrequently) we
       see fences only with but a dead and utterly worthless stump within.
       Do not speak lightly of these "stumps," however.  They are none the
       less "moriai"--sacred olive trees of Athena, and carefully tended by
       public wardens.  Contractors are allowed to take the fruit of the
       olive trees under carefully regulated conditions; but no one is
       allowed to remove the stumps, much less hew down a living tree.  An
       offender is tried for "impiety" before the high court of the
       Areopagus, and his fate is pretty surely death, for the country
       people, at least, regard their sacred trees with a fanatical devotion
       which it would take long to explain to a stranger.
       
       * * *
       
       Also upon the way one is pretty sure to meet a wandering beggar--a
       shrewd-eyed, bewhiskered fellow.  He carries, not a barrel organ and
       monkey, but a blinking tame crow perched on his shoulder, and at
       every farmstead he halts to whine his nasal ditty and ask his dole.
       
           Good people, a handful of barley bestow
           On the child of Apollo, the sleek sable crow;
           Or a trifle of whet, O kind friends, give;
           Or a wee loaf of bread that the crow may live.
       
       It is counted good luck by the housewife to have a chance to feed a
       "holy crow," and the owner's pickings are goodly.
       
       Part of the farm lands lie on the level ground watered by the
       irrigation ditches; part upon the hillsides, and here the slopes have
       been terraced in a most skilful fashion in order to make the most of
       every possible inch of ground, and also to prevent any of the
       precious soil from being washed down by the torrents of February and
       March.
       
       Like every Athenian farmer, Hybrias has an olive orchard.  The olives
       are sturdy trees.  They will grow in any tolerable soil and thrive
       upon the mountain slopes up to as far as 1800 feet above sea level.
       They are not large trees, and their trunks are often grotesquely
       gnarled, but there is always a certain fascination about the
       wonderful shimmer of their leaves, which flash from gray to
       silver-white in a sunny wind.  Hybrias has wisely planted his olives
       at wide intervals, and in the space between the ground has been
       plowed up for grain.  Olives need little care.  Their harvest comes
       late in the autumn, after all the other crops are out of the way.
       They are among the most profitable products of the farm, and the
       owner will not mind the poor wheat harvest "if only the olives do
       well."
       
       The great drawback to olive culture was the great length of time
       required to mature the trees--sixteen years.  The destruction of the
       trees, _e.g._ in war by a ravaging invader, was an infinitely greater
       calamity than the burning of the standing grain or even of the
       farmhouses.
       
       The fig orchard forms another great part of the farm, but more
       interesting to strangers are the vineyards.  Some of the grapes are
       growing over pointed stakes set all along the upland terraces; a
       portion of the vineyards, however, is on level ground.  Here a most
       picturesque method has been used for training the vines.  Tall and
       graceful trees have been set out--elm, maple, oak, poplar.  The lower
       limbs of the trees have been cut away and up their trunks and around
       their upper branches now swing the vines in magnificent festoons.
       The growing vines have sprung from tree to tree.  The warm breeze has
       set the rich clusters--already turning purple or golden--swaying
       above our heads. The air is filled with brightness, greenery, and
       fragrance.  The effect of this "vineyard grove" is magical.
       
       Hybrias himself will display with more refined pride the gardens used
       by his wife and children when they come out from Athens,--a fountain
       feeding a delightful rivulet; myrtles, roses, and pomegranate trees
       shedding their perfumes, which are mingled with the odors from the
       beds of hyacinths, violets, and asphodel.  In the center of the
       gardens rises a chaste little shrine with a marble image and an
       altar, always covered with flowers or fruit by the mistress and her
       women.  "To Artemis," reads the inscription, and one is sure that the
       virgin goddess takes more pleasure in this fragrant temple than in
       many loftier fanes.
       
       For the description of a very beautiful and elaborate country estate,
       with a temple thereon to Artemis, see Xenophon's _Anabasis_,
       bk. V. 3.
       
       # Chapter 20: The Temples and Gods of Athens
       
       First of all we observe that the Greek religion is a religion of
       purely natural growth.  No prophet has initiated it, or claimed a new
       revelation to supplement the older views.  It has come from primitive
       times without a visible break even down to the Athens of Plato.
       
       [Zeus and the gods overthrew the titans, who were the former gods,
       now evil.]
       
       Secondly, this religion is not a church, nor a belief, but is part of
       the government.
       
       Thirdly, notice that this religion is one mainly of outward reverence
       and ceremony.  There is no "Athenian church"; nobody has drawn up an
       "Attic creed"--"I believe in Athena, the City Warder, and in Demeter,
       the Earth Mother, and in Zeus, the King of Heaven, etc."  Give
       outward reverence, participate in the great public sacrifices, be
       careful in all the minutiæ of private worship, refrain from obvious
       blasphemies--you are then a sufficiently pious man.  What you
       _believe_ is of very little consequence.  Even if you privately
       believe there are no gods at all, it harms no one, provided your
       outward conduct is pious and moral.
       
       The religion of Athens is something very elastic, and really every
       man makes his own creed for himself, or--for paganism is almost never
       dogmatic--accepts the outward cultus with everybody else, and
       speculates at his leisure on the nature of the deity.
       
       This Greek religious morality is built up without any clear belief in
       a future life.
       
       The "Orphic Mysteries," those secret religious rites which have
       gained such a hold in many parts of Greece, including Athens,
       probably hold out an earnest promise to the "initiates" of a blessed
       state for them hereafter.  The doctrine of a real elysium for the
       good and a realm of torment for the evil has been expounded by many
       sages.  Pindar, the great bard of Thebes, has set forth the doctrine
       in a glowing ode. ... All this is true,--and it is also true that
       these ideas have made no impression upon the general Greek
       consciousness.  They are accepted half-heartedly by a relatively few
       exceptional thinkers.  Men go through life and face death with no
       real expectation of future reward or punishment, or of reunion with
       the dear departed. ... This fundamental deduction from the Greek
       religion must usually, therefore, be made--it is a religion for
       _this world only_.
       
       Assuredly there is a better way still to read the future; at least so
       Greeks of earlier ages have believed.  Go to one of the great oracles,
       whereof that of Apollo at Delphi is the supreme, but not the unique,
       example.  Ask your question in set form from the attendant priests,
       not failing to offer an elaborate sacrifice and to bestow all the
       "gifts" (golden tripods, mixing bowls, shields, etc.) your means will
       allow.  Then (at Delphi) wait silent and awe-stricken while the lady
       Pythia, habited as a young girl, takes her seat on a tripod over a
       deep cleft in the rock, whence issues an intoxicating vapor.  She
       inhales the gas, sways to and fro in an ecstasy, and now, duly
       "inspired," answers in a somewhat wild manner the queries which the
       priest will put in behalf of the supplicants.  Her incoherent words
       are very hard to understand, but the priest duly "interprets" them,
       _i.e._ gives them to the suppliant in the form of hexameter verses.
       Sometimes the meaning of these verses is perfectly clear.  Very often
       they are truly "Delphic," with a most dubious meaning--as in that
       oft-quoted instance, when the Pythia told Crœsus if he went to war
       with Cyrus, "he would destroy a mighty monarchy," and lo, he
       destroyed his own!
       
       The two chief elements of Greek worship, however, are not
       consideration of the future, but sacrificial and prayer.
       
       Almost every Greek city has its own formidable citadel, its own
       _acropolis_,—for "citadel" is really all this word conveys.
       Corinth boasts of its "Acro-Corinthus," Thebes of its "Cadmeia,"--but
       _the_ Acropolis is in Athens.
       
       The Acropolis dominates the plain of Athens.  All the city seems to
       adjust itself to the base of its holy citadel.  It lifts itself as
       tawny limestone rock rising about 190 feet above the adjacent level
       of the town.  In form it is an irregular oval with its axis west and
       east.  It is about 950 feet long and 450 feet at its greatest
       breadth.  On every side but the west the precipice falls away sheer
       and defiant...  To the westward, however, the gradual slope makes a
       natural pathway always possible, and human art has long since shaped
       this with convenient steps.  Nestling in against the precipice are
       various sanctuaries and caves; _e.g._ on the northwestern side, high
       up on the slope beneath the precipice, open the uncanny grottoes of
       Apollo and of Pan.  On the southern side, close under the very shadow
       of the citadel, is the temple of Asclepius, and, more to the
       southeast, the great open theater of Dionysus has been scooped out of
       the rock, a place fit to contain an audience of some 15,000.
       
       Every temple and statue in Athens is not left in its bare white
       marble, as later ages will conceive is demanded by
       "Greek Architecture" and statuary, but is decked in brilliant
       color--"painted," if you will use an almost unfriendly word.  The
       columns and gables and ceilings of the buildings are all painted.
       Blue, red, green, and gold blaze on all the members and ornaments.
       The backgrounds of the pediments, metopes, and frieze are tinted some
       uniform color on which the sculptured figures in relief stand out
       clearly.  The figures themselves are tinted or painted, at least on
       the hair, lips, and eyes.  Flesh-colored warriors are fighting upon a
       bright red background.  The armor and horse trappings on the
       sculptures are in actual bronze.  The result is an effect
       indescribably vivid. Blues and reds predominate: the flush of light
       and color from the still more brilliant heavens above adds to the
       effect.  Shall we call it garish?  We have learned to know the taste
       of Athenians too well to doubt their judgment in matters of pure
       beauty.  And they are right.
       
       One thing more.  There are hardly any straight lines in the
       Parthenon.  To the eye, the members and the steps of the substructure
       may seem perfectly level; but the measuring rod betrays marvelously
       subtle curves.  As nature abhors right angles in her creations of
       beauty, so have these Greeks.  Rigidity, unnaturalness, have been
       banished.  The Parthenon stands, not merely embellished with
       inimitable sculptures, but perfectly adjusted to the natural world
       surrounding.
       
       It was an inability to discover and execute these concealed curves
       which give certain of the modern imitations of the Parthenon their
       unpleasant impressions of harness and rigidity.
       
       The whole Acropolis is the home of Athena.  The other gods harbored
       thereon are only her inferior guests.
       
       ... in one prayer, which Plato puts in Socrates's mouth, almost all
       the best of Greek ideals and morality seems uttered.  It is spoken
       not on the Acropolis, but beside the Ilissus at the close of the
       delightful walk and chat related in the _Phædrus_.
       
       > Beloved Pan, and all ye other gods who haunt this place, give me
       > the beauty of the inward soul, and may the outward and the inward
       > man be joined in perfect harmony.  May I reckon the wise to be
       > wealthy, and may I have such a quantity of gold as none but the
       > temperate can carry.  Anything more?--That prayer, I think, is
       > enough for me.
       
       # Chapter 21: The Great Festivals of Athens
       
       In Gulick (_Life of the Ancient Greeks_, pp. 304-310) there is a
       valuable list of Attic festivals.  The Athenians had over thirty
       important religious festivals, several of them, _e.g._, the
       Thesmorphoria (celebrated by the women in honor of Demeter),
       extending over a number of days.
       
       Our first festival is the Eleusinia, the festival of the Eleusinian
       mysteries.  It is September, the "19th of Boēdromiōn," the
       Athenians will say.  Four days have been spent by the "initiates" and
       the "candidates" in symbolic sacrifices and purifications.  On one of
       these days the arch priest, the "Hierophant," has preached a manner
       of sermon at the Painted Porch in the Agora setting forth the
       awfulness and spiritual efficacy of these Mysteries, sacred to
       Demeter the Earth Mother, to her daughter Persephone, and also to the
       young Iacchus, one of the many incarnations of Dionysus, and who is
       always associated at Elusis with the divine "Mother and Daughter."
       The great cry has gone forth to the Initiates--"To the Sea, ye
       Mystæ!"  and the whole vast multitude has gone down to bathe in the
       purifying brine.
       
       Women could be initiated as well as men.
       
       Again we are in Athens in the springtime:
       "The eleventh of Elapheboliön" [March].  It is the third day of the
       Greater Dionysia.  The city has been in high festival; all the booths
       in the Agora hum with redoubled life; strangers have flocked in from
       outlying parts of Hellas to trade, admire, and recreate; under
       pretext of honoring the wine god, inordinate quantities of wine are
       drunk with less than the prudent mixture of water.  There is
       boisterous frolicking, singing, and jesting everywhere.  It is early
       blossom time. All whom you meet wear huge flower crowns, and pelt you
       with the fragrant petals of spring.
       
       So for two days the city has made merry, and now on the third, very
       early, "to the theater" is the word on every lip.
       
       Early dawn it is when the crowds pour through the barriers around the
       Theater of Dionysus upon the southern slope of the Acropolis.  They
       sit (full 15,000 or more) wedged close together upon rough wooden
       benches set upon the hill slopes.
       
       These benches (before the stone theater was built in 340 B.C.) may be
       imagined as set up much like the "bleachers" at a modern baseball
       park.  We know that ancient audiences wedged in very close.
       
       The keen Attic imagination will take the place of the thousand arts
       of the later stage-setter.  Sophocles and his rivals, even as
       Shakespeare in Elizabeth's England, can sound the very depths and
       scale the loftiest heights of human passion, with only a simulacrum
       of the scenery, properties, and mechanical artifices which will trick
       out a very mean twentieth century theater.
       
       To analyze the Attic drama is the task of the philosopher and the
       literary expert.  We observe only the superficialities.  There are
       never more than _three_ speaking actors before the audience at once.
       They wear huge masques, shaped to fit their parts.  The wide
       mouthpieces make the trained elocution carry to the most remote parts
       of the theater.  The actors wear long trailing robes and are mounted
       on high shoes to give them sufficient stature before the distant
       audience.  When a new part is needed in the play, an actor retires to
       the booth, and soon comes forth with a changed masque and costume--an
       entirely new character.  In such a costume and masque, play of
       feature and easy gesture is impossible; but the actors carry
       themselves with a stately dignity and recite their often ponderous
       lines with a grace which redeems them from all bombast.  An essential
       part of the play is the chorus; indeed the chorus was once the main
       feature of the drama, the actors insignificant innovations.
       
       The audience follows all the philosophic reasoning of the tragedies,
       the often subtle wit of the comedies, with that same shrewd alertness
       displayed at the jury courts of the Pnyx.
       
       Then for the last time let us visit Athens, at the fête which in its
       major form comes only once in four years.  It is the 28th of
       Metageitniön (August), and the eighth day of the Greater
       Panathenæa, the most notable of all Athenian festivals.  By it is
       celebrated the union of all Attica by Theseus, as one happy united
       country under the benign sway of mighty Athena,--an ever fortunate
       union, which saved the land from the sorrowful feuds of hostile
       hamlets such as have plagued so many Hellenic countries.  On the
       earlier days of the feast there have been musical contests and
       gymnastic games much after the manner of the Olympic games, although
       the contestants have been drawn from Attica only.  There has been a
       public recital of Homer.
       
       Now we are at the eighth day.  All Athens will march in its glory to
       the Acropolis, to bear to the shrine of Athena the sacred "peplos"--a
       robe specially woven by the noble women of Athens to adorn the image
       of the guardian goddess. [*] The houses have opened; the wives, maids,
       and mothers of gentle family have come forth to march in the
       procession, all elegantly wreathed and clad in their best, bearing
       the sacred vessels and other proper offerings.  The daughters of the
       "metics," the resident foreigners, go as attendants of honor with
       them.  The young men and the old, the priests, the civil magistrates,
       the generals, all have their places.  Proudest of all are the wealthy
       and high-born youths of the cavalry, who now dash to and fro in their
       clattering pride.  The procession is formed in the outer Ceramicus.
       Amid cheers, chants, chorals, and incense smoke it sweeps through the
       Agora, and slowly mounts the Acropolis.  Center of all the marchers
       is the glittering peplos, raised like a sail upon a wheeled barge of
       state--"the ship of Athena."  Upon the Acropolis, while the old
       peplos is piously withdrawn from the image and the new one
       substituted, there is a prodigious sacrifice.  A mighty flame roars
       heavenward from the "great altar"; while enough bullocks and kine
       have been slaughtered to enable every citizen--however poor--to bear
       away a goodly mess of roasted meat that night.
       
       [*] Note that this robe was for the revered ancient and wooden image
       of Athena Polias, not for the far less venerable statue of
       Athena Parthenos.
       
       We will not wait for the feasting but rather will take our way to the
       Temple of Wingless Victory, looking forth to the west of the
       Acropolis Rock.  So many things we see which we would fain print on
       the memory.  Behind us we have just left the glittering Parthenon,
       and the less august but hardly less beautiful Erechtheum, with its
       "Porch of the Maidens."  To our right is the wide expanse of the
       roofs of the city and beyond the dark olive groves of Colonus, and
       the slopes of Ægaleos. In the near foreground, are the red crags of
       Areopagus and the gray hill of the Pnyx.  But the eye will wander
       farther.  It is led away across the plainland to the bay of Phaleron,
       the castellated hill of Munychia, the thin stretch of blue water and
       the brown island seen across it--Salamis and its strait of the
       victory.  Across the sparkling vista of the sea rise the headlands of
       Ægina and of lesser isles; farther yet rise the lordly peaks of
       Argolis.  Or we can look to the southward.  Our gaze rounds down the
       mountainous Attic coast full thirty miles to where Sunium thrusts out
       its haughty cape into the Ægean and points the way across the
       island-studded sea.
       
       Evening is creeping on . Behind us sounds the great pæan, the solemn
       chant to Athena, bestower of good to men. As the sun goes down over
       the distant Argolic hills his rays spread a clear pathway of gold
       across the waters.  Islands, seas, mountains far and near, are
       touched now with shifting hues,--saffron, violet, and rose,--beryl,
       topaz, sapphire, amethyst.  There will never be another landscape
       like unto this in all the world.  Gladly we sum up our thoughts in
       the cry of a son of Athens, Aristophanes, master of song, who loved
       [Athens] with that love which the land of Athena can ever inspire in
       all its children, whether its own by adoption or by birth:
       
       > Oh, thou, our Athens!  Violet-crowned, brilliant, most enviable of
       > cities!
       
       author: Davis, William Stearns, 1877-1930
 (TXT) detail: gopher://gopherpedia.com/0/William_Stearns_Davis
 (HTM) source: ftp://ftp.mirrorservice.org/sites/ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/4/7/1/4716/
       tags: ebook,history
       title:   A Day In Old Athens
       
       # Footnotes
       
 (DIR) [1] The Echo of Greece by Edith Hamilton
       
 (HTM) [2] Life on a Medieaval Barony by William Stearns Davis (gutenberg)
       
 (TXT) [3] Mines of Laurion (wikipedia)
       
 (IMG) [4] Vincent Price, The Telltale Bart
       
       [5] Maps
       
 (IMG) Attica (360 B.C.)
       
 (IMG) Peiraeus & Harbors (360 B.C.)
       
 (IMG) Athens (360 B.C.)
       
 (IMG) The Acropolis (360 B.C.)
       
       # Tags
       
 (DIR) ebook
 (DIR) history