on deck of the queen of chilliwack ----------------------------------------------------------- almost at bella coola -- in the fjord sick of shadows sick of fog sick of sunlight sick of forests mountains waters engine shake and sway wind and sea we congealed in groups of three or five the gatherings of the sitters in white plastic chairs the talk would turn to fish as it does in british columbia to salmon and how they and which do they and did i have the broiled tonight and i said no that as everyone was at aft i had this place in lemony-sunny long angles but that i had the grilled at butchart gardens in the formal dining room for kicks and white linen service in shorts and sandals perfectly dressed -- sun-dial ringed with blueberries on a mound of round rice-sized pasta and she said hold on i have something to show you returning with a greasy wad: an old family recipe indian-made best of port hardy and distinct from others a link to ancient coastal eats not from a breeder's pond not on steroids ("our salmon don't do drugs") just the old way of knives wood and fishes the crumble of dry soft flaking riches a scent not unlike my blackfeet medicine bag (from where the montana jaggeds stop the prairie) here won't you have some more politely declining -- just as my hand went for it she laughing an art-food revelation a nourishing welcoming (not unlike kristie's in nashua montana) how clearly western how best canadian Marek Lugowski 30 September 1997 Chicago, Illinois [rev. 9 Januaury 1998]