

HOME  FRONT:

You do not have to miles away from civilization to be caught in
a survival situation

Natural disaster, civil disturbance or military action could
cut you off from all the usual services & food supplies.

Until  they can be re-established you would be left to manage
on your own resources and skill. (Aren't you lucky?)

With no power supplies, central heating, hot water, lighting,
airconditioning,  TV  and refrigeration (NO cold  beer!)  would
all cease.

Battery radios and TV would for a time give some news of the
rest of  the world, if the situation is not global, but post
telephone & newspaper would no longer be available.

As  main water supplies ceased to function, so taps would run
dry and  toilets become unusable. (Rats!) Besides in case of
Nuclear attack  the  radios and TV and all electronic gadgets
go  plunk, kaput! Unless deeply buried underground. No computer
either!

In the countryside there would be natural resources to draw
upon. In  large  cities shops would soon be emptied of  food,
sold  or looted.

And  plants  in parks and gardens would be rapidly stripped
once any private stocks had been exhausted.

The population would have to make forays out into the countryside
to survive, or abandon the town, if not in a siege situation.

Suburban  dwellers have more vegetable plots & open  spaces  to
provide foodstuffs. They would be less dependent upon shops.

Those  away from major centres are more likely to have their
own food stocks because they cannot shop at will.

But most of them will be reluctant if not dangerous to deal
with. Most families have some food in store. It should be
rationed  and supplemented with whatever can be found.

FOOD STORES:

Storing food is a good habit to get into, especially if you
live in an isolated place, which can become completely cut-off.

If  you  have a year's food supply in store and add to it as
you use  it, you will not only be able to survive the worst,
but will be  able  to  live at last year's prices. But you
will  have  to protect it.

The stock does not have to be established in one go. Build it
up gradually,  taking advantage of special offers  in
supermarkets. Buy an extra tin or packet and put it by.

Store  your  foods  in  a cool, dry place  and  off  the
ground. Moisture & heat can cause bacteria and mould.

If  stores  are left on the floor insects and rodents  will
help themselves. MAKE SURE that all containers are insect and
rodentproof.

REMEMBER:

Rotate  cans,  so that the contents do not settle  and
separate. Label  each  can  or  packet with a colour fast
waterproof  pen, noting contents and date of storage.

Use  in sequence, the oldest first. Store methodically and  if
a label  falls  off,  you should still have  a  good  idea  of
the contents.

KEEP IT SEALED:

Screw-tops   sweet  jars  are  ideal  for  storage  and
plastic containers with tight-fitting lids can also be used.

Do not over fill them so that they distort & the lid does not
fit correctly. Use adhesive tape to seal the lids. Reseal after
using some  but  REMEMBER that once opened the contents will
begin  to deteriorate.

RECOMMENDED FOOD / SHELF LIFE:

WHEAT:	   Indefinitely below 15C
MILK POWDER:   2 YEARS
HONEY:    Indefinitely
EGG POWDER:    2 years

SALT:     Indefinitely if absolutely dry.
CANNED FOODS: 3-5 years (replace regularly).
OATS:     Indefinitely
COOKING OIL:   2 years (replace regularly)

RATIONS:

Complete rations are available with various menus. Either
freezedried  or  dehydrated. They are lighter and less  space-
consuming than canned foods.

Freeze-dried is Best for both taste and texture & retain
minerals that are lost in dehydration.

Although both  need water for reconstitution they can in
dire circumstances be eaten as dry munch.

VITAMINS:

Multivitamin's tablets are a good investment. The body can
store up  to a month's supply of most vitamins, then health
will suffer if they are not replaced.

In  stress situations they are more rapidly used up. The B
family and  minerals,  calcium and zinc are the  first  to  go.
Vitamin tables  do  not have unlimited shelf-life so check
manufacturer's instructions.

DRIED FRUIT AND NUTS:

They are nutritious and should also be included-raisins,
sultanas and currants all keep well. Nuts in their shells keep
so long  as they  are  dry.  Packets of dried salted nuts  such
as  peanuts,brazil and walnuts are highly nutritious.

POTATO POWDER:

Is  a  great  filler for hungry stomachs and can be  prepared
in several ways to make it palatable.

BROWN RICE:

Has  more  nourishment than long-grain white rice that loses
all its goodness when boiled.

STORE LOCATION:

The  cooler the storage area, the better the stores will keep.
A cellar is ideal but there may be a problem with dampness so:

Keep all the stores off the ground and inspect them  regularly.
If there is a skylight in the cellar, cover it. The store is
best kept  dark.  An attic is also convenient for storage. The
stores are not in the way of day to day activities.

However it may get very warm in summer & access may be
difficult, especially  if a ladder is the only means of entry
that  may  be awkward when trying to rotate the stocks.

The  roof  is  also a very vulnerable position in most  kinds
of disaster  situations. In an area where hurricanes can be
expected and attic is not a good choice.

In  territory liable to flooding a cellar is equally risky.
Under the stairs is another area that may offer some
protection, though perhaps a limited space.

Advantage  should  be  taken  of wherever  is  most
conveniently available  to  store  not  only food but also
medical  supplies, disinfectant, cleansing materials and water.

If  you  divide your stores into more than one area, each with
a variety of items you should be well prepared.

ADD TO YOUR STORES:

Soap and toilet paper / Disinfectant & bleach / Washing powder
/ General  medical supplies / Medicines for dysentery, for
stomach upsets,  for  allergies,  general  pain  killers  /
Bandages & dressing.

PRIORITIES:

In  domestic situation there is likely to be a shelter unless
it has  been totally destroyed or the area has become a danger
zone and evacuation is a MUST.

Damage can be patched up to provide some kind of protection
from the  elements and more permanent repairs undertaken  as
soon  as possible.

WATER SUPPLIES ARE ALWAYS LIKELY TO BE A PROBLEM. For even
during a flood drinking water is scarce.

Fortunately there are likely to be some immediate reserves on
the premises and with warning of crisis, these can be
supplemented.

Fire  for  warmth  is  less of a problem,  since  there  will
be combustible materials in the house and surroundings.

INFECTION MAY PROVE TO BE THE GREATEST DANGER and strict
hygiene and sanitary practices MUST be enforced.

WATER:

Although a family of 4 can use considerable amount of water
each week,  only  a  small  percentage of  this  is  for
drinking,  a requirement of about 2 litres (4 pints) per day
per person.

If  warned  of  a crisis, fill as many receptacles  as
possible, especially  in hot climates. A bath holds many
gallons;  increase its  capacity  by  blocking the overflow.
Use dustbins,  buckets, pots even strong polythene bags if they
are only half filled  and securely tied off.

Store  water  in the dark. If light gets to it green  algae
will develop.  Water is bulky and heavy. Do not store it in the
attic or it may bring the ceiling down.

Even  without advance warning there will be water in the
storage tank  heating pipes,  radiators, an aquarium & the
toilet cistern will hold another few gallons. Don't flush it.

Outdoors you may have a swimming pool, water butts or a pond
even water from a car radiator can be used.

Central  heating  water  is usually treated  with  de-
oxygenating agent and a car radiator probably contains anti-
freeze.

So water from these places is best kept for cleaning purposes.
If it has to be used for drinking then boil it, collect the
steam in clean cloth and wring them out. Then re-boil.

Boiled water taste flat and distilled water have even less
taste. It  is easy to restore some of its sparkle by putting
oxygen back into it.

Simply  pour the water back and forth from one vessel to
another. A  small  piece  of wood charcoal placed in the vessel
while  it boils also helps taste

FILTERING AND STERILISING:

Filter  and sterilise ALL water Before using it for drinking.
If circumstances make it impossible to boil water, sterilise it
with chemicals.

FILTERING:

Allow water to stand in its container so that sediment settles
at the  bottom.  Then siphon it into a filter made  up  of  a
nylon stocking  or other porous material, stuffed with layers
of  sand (bottom) charcoal and moss at the top.

STERILIZING:

CLEAR WATER:

Add  2  drops household bleach per litre (1 per pint) or: 
3 drops of 2% tincture of iodine per litre (6 per pint).

CLOUDY WATER:

Double the quantities of bleach or iodine.

LARGE QUANTITIES:

1/2 tsp. of bleach per litre (2 tsp. per gallon.)

COOKING IN WATER:

Water  which food is to be cooked MUST be boiled for at least
10 minutes, but water not boiled for as long can be used for
heating cans of food provided it makes no contact with the
foodstuff.

Stand the can in water,  piece a small hole in the top to
avoid the  risk of explosion and plug it with a twist of cloth
so that water cannot enter the can.

Alternatively, boil the water, remove it from the heat and
place the  not pierced can in the water. This takes longer for
the can to eat through.


WATER CATCHMENT:

(Note:  These advises however do NOT apply in case of atomic
war because of the fall-out, water being contaminated by radio-
active dust.)

Catch  all available rainwater. Break off lower sections of
down pipes and divert the flow into container such as a
dustbin. Even  if  rainwater  is pure, guttering may
contaminate  it,  so sterilise it.

Supplement  water receptacles with tarpaulins or  plastic
sheets supported on sticks. Rinse between showers to reduce
tainting.

Dig  a  hole and line it with plastic sheet or concrete for
water storage. Cover it to prevent evaporation and debris
falling in.

If the local water table is high you may be able to dig down
to water-there  may even be a well on your property  that
could be reopen.  Solar and vegetation stills are other ways
of obtaining water.

WATER CONSERVATION:

Do not waste water washing clothes, other than
underclothing. NEVER throw water away after use.

Allow sediment to settle and it can be used again. (Providing
you did  not use soap or that its dust was not contaminated by
radioactive material.)

It is VERY IMPORTANT to wash the hands before preparing food.
But the rest of the body can wait until it rains.

The body produces natural oils, and as long as the pores are
kept open, health will not be affected. You soon get used to
the smell & social occasions are rare in crisis situation.

If  showers are few and far between, use a damp cloth for a
strip wash.  Cloths  left  out on the lawns or bushes  over
night  may gather  enough  moistures for a wipe down without
using  up  you water stores.

Injured  persons MUST receive priority for bathing and all
their dressings should be boiled regularly.

FIRE:

This  note  can  and should be repeated in the  chapter  of
fire because of its pertinence. The  warmth  and comfort of a
fire are great moral boosters, but its most important use
will be for boiling water and preserving food. These MUST take
priority in the use of fuel.

FIREPLACES:

Blocked fireplaces should be opened up again and chimneys
checked for obstructions.

If  they are not clear there is considerable risk of setting
fire to  the  chimneys themselves and thus to the house.  
(Move Santa Claus away and the Stork!).

TO CLEAR A CHIMNEY:

Tie  a  holly bush or similar shrub to a long rope and  from
the rooftop lower the rope down the chimney (A stone tied on
the  end will  insure its drops). Now pull down the holly bush
and it will clear the chimney.

IMPROVISED FIREPLACES:

Where  there  are no fireplaces metal containers, metal
dustbins lids  and  central heating radiators can all be used
to  light  a fire on.

In flats with concrete floors a fire could be lit directly on
the floor. If you have a barbecue stand use it.

NEVER LEAVE A FIRE INDOORS UNATTENDED. Even one in a proper
grate should  be allowed to die down for the night, if no one
is  going to stay up to watch it.

FUEL:

Start  with garden furniture, trees, shrubs, bean sticks,
swings, ladders, tool handles (not the axe). When these run out
start on furnishings, (Keep  the bed & Chippendale for last?).
Carpets & curtains cushions will all burn.

Cardboard, books & rolled -up newspaper will  also  give  off
a surprising amount of heat. All  kind  of  vehicle fuel can
also be burned  as  well  as  the conventional heating and
lighting oils.

WARNING:

Many  modern  fabrics and furnishings, especially PVC  and
foamblock furniture, produce poisonous gases when burned.

If  burning  these  items make a fireplace in the  garden  or
if forced to burn them in a flat, make the fire near an open
window. Cover  the  face with a damp cloth when you need to go  
near the fire to tend it & things being heated on it.

FOOD:

Note  that  in case of atomic war the following do not apply.

Check all the food in the house & ration it immediately. Use
the perishable food first. Fatty foods are the first to
deteriorate & canned foods the last.

DO NOT PEEL POTATOES. Much of their food value is in the skin.

REMEMBER  that  once electric power fails, the  refrigerator
and freezer will cease to function-though they may take some
time  to defrost,  if  you  open  their doors as  seldom  and
briefly  as possible. Boil milk & it will keep longer

Boil eggs or coat them in a layer of fat. If you have Inglass
(a traditional method of preserving fresh eggs) simply immerse
them in it.

Cook  meat, wrap it in cloth and bury it in the earth. Cook
pork first  (which has the highest fat content), then lamb,
then  beef (which is the best meat to preserve).

Once a meat has been cooked & allowed to cool, DO NOT re-heat
or you may Risk food poisoning. You  can  only cook so much at
a time, so leave the rest  in the fridge or freezer while they 
are still cool places.

FOOD FROM THE GARDEN:

The  vegetables  with 4 petals, including all  the
#brassicas#, from wallflowers to cabbages are EDIBLE.

Hollyhocks though not very tasty are nutritious. Worms, slugs
and snails are also EDIBLE.

YOU  MUST  AVOID bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and *
#aconites# that are ALL POISONOUS.

FURTHER AFIELD:

Explore  parks  and  open  spaces for other  vegetation  and
for hunting  and  trapping wildlife. Bird life in  cities
especially pigeons & startling will often fill the plate,
especially if  you bait snares and nets.

CLOSER HOME:

Beware of house plants-some of them ARE POISONOUS especially
the Dieffenbachia* and Philodendron, though Orchids are good to eat.

If food is short there will be none to spare for pets & you
can't afford  to  be squeamish. If the aquarium water has to
be  drunk don't  waste the fish. In fact they will probably be
the  easiest to eat even if you do not need the water.

The  cat  is  next in the pot. Once dressed it will  be  hard
to distinguish  from  rabbit.  (KENTUCKY  FRIED  KITTEN?)
Gerbils, hamsters, rabbits, budgerigars & parrots can all be
added to  the diet  &  unless a dog is exceptionally good
hunter, it should  go too. (Yummy, Hot dogs!)

FRIDGE / SMOKE HOUSE:

When  the fridge no longer functions remove the motor, cut a
hole in  the bottom, place it on some stones or bricks and with
a fire beneath it use is as a smoke house.

SHELTER:

THE  FIRST PRIORITIES WILL BE A SOUND ROOF OVER YOUR HEAD AND
A STABLE STRUCTURE.

Clear  any debris & ensure that there is nothing that could
still collapse  or fall from above and cause injury. Use
slates,  tiles and  bricks  from  other buildings to ensure
that  at  least  one building is sound.

IN COLD WEATHER:

Conserve resources by living in one room, choosing a ground
floor room with a southern aspect (If you live in Northern
hemisphere).

Block  all  draughts & avoid opening the door  unnecessarily.
If there  is  a  fire  burning, MAKE SURE  that  there  is
adequate ventilation to AVOID ASPHYXIATION or carbon monoxide
poisoning.

Wear warm clothing to help conserve fuel and wear a hat. The
more people in the room, the higher the temperature will
become.  Rest and keep physical exertion to a minimum.

IN VERY WARM WEATHER:

Use  upstairs accommodation and spread out. Open windows  on
the downstairs windward side and open all windows on the
#leeside#  * upstairs.

Leave all the doors open and a cool breeze will blow through
the house. Rest during the day and do any necessary work at
night.

MOVING:

If  the house proves beyond repair, or other pressures force
you to evacuate, take ESSENTIAL items, food, blankets, tools,
medical supplies,  containers for water & materials suitable
for  shelter protection.

If  they  are not likely to be available. Use a pram or
shopping trolley as transportation. Either find an empty house
or building or prepare to set up camp elsewhere.

HYGIENE:

SANITATION  IS  VERY  IMPORTANT  during  the  aftermath  of any
disaster. Open  sewers, contaminated water and the build up of
rubbish  all help to cause and spread disease.

Germs carried by rats, fleas and other insects, rapidly
multiply. All  kinds of waste should be carefully disposed of
and  all  the procedures described should be adapted to the
doorstep situation.

PERSONAL HYGIENE:

Wash  with  sand if there is no water available. Don't bite
your nails  however stressful conditions may be or put the
fingers  to the mouth.

Don't   pick  scabs  or  sores  and  keep  them  covered.
Change underclothes  regularly and wash them.
(But don't use drinking water to do so.)

EXCRETA:  (Not etceteras)

Urine  is sterile but if large amounts accumulate they smell
and attract files. Use the "desert rose" of the kind describe
in Camp craft* .Keep the tube covered. If not used directly
pour all collected urine down the tube.

Build  a  latrine far enough from the house not to be  smelt
but near enough to be handy for "emergencies" there will be
many such emergencies in a survival situation.

A  box with a hole cut in the base can be used as a thunder
box. After  use if there is water available wash yourself
rather  than using toilet paper. Wash the hands thoroughly
afterwards.

Fit a lid to your shit box, pile earth around the bottom and
then you  will  contain the smells and keep out flies. Move
all  shit with a shovel & avoid hand contact.

WARNING, ANIMALS:

They  pick up diseases that can be transmitted to humans. If
you handle animals, MAKE SURE you have no breaks in the skin or
wear gloves.  Infection can enter through the smallest of
cuts.  Cook all meat thoroughly.

KITCHEN WASTE:

All  bio-degradable waste should be stacked in a  corner  of
the garden and composted to enrich the soil.

Compost heaps are also a great source of yummy worms, which
will add  protein  to  your diet. However there  should  not
be  much kitchen  waste.  The  outer  leaves of  cabbages  that
you  once discarded, WILL BE EDIBLE IF YOU CUT THEM UP SMALL.

Non-biodegradable waste-cans and plastics that are not useful
in some  way should be burned, flattened and buried. This stops
them attracting flies.

In warm climates burn ALL WASTE. Put all the ashes in the pit.

FOOD DISEASES:

Salmonella and Shigella are diseases transmitted through the
oral or anal route by contaminated hands.

Sores  on hands can be a source of entry for Staphylococcal
food poisoning with severe stomach pains, diarrhoea & dehydration.

Clostridium Botulinum is a frequently Fatal bacilli that  can
be produced  when canning at home if the temperatures are  not
high enough. It grows only when oxygen is excluded.

THERE  IS  NO  RELIABLE  WAY  OF  DETERMINING  WHETHER  FOOD
IS CONTAMINATED.

So  TAKE  GREAT  CARE  if you do your own preserving.  A
related bacillus causes TETANUS WHICH IS DEADLY.

