RAISED BEDS FOR INTENSIVE GARDENING

Intensive gardening is a way to get maximum crop yields with
efficient input. Vegetables are raised close together, in
successive plantings and crops are interplanted. The key is to use
raised beds.

Raised beds provide better drainage, and they warm up faster in the
spring so the growing season can be started earlier. The raised-
bed garden is easier to weed, irrigate, mulch, and harvest. By
using raised beds, only the area of the garden that is under
production, and not the paths through it, are watered, fertilized
and mulched. This leads to savings in both time and money. By never
walking on the beds, the soil is not compacted and better-quality
vegetables are grown. Space is saved by raising more crops in a
smaller area. And the garden is attractive and a joy to look at!

Planning is important for success. Plan careful layout of the beds
and the productive use of the vegetable garden.

In planning the layout of the garden, place the beds for maximum
sun exposure and for good drainage. Once the beds are constructed,
they are never walked on. All cultivation, planting, harvesting,
etc., is done from the path between the beds.

Plan bed width so the gardener can easily reach the center of the
bed from the paths on either side. This usually means beds are 4 to 
5 feet wide. They may be of any length and paths are 1 to 2 feet
wide. Once you determine the dimensions, marked out the garden with
stakes and string.

Now comes the hard work. Good preparation of the beds is vital to
the success of the garden. In the "Biodynamic French Intensive"
method, beds are double-dug to a depth of 24" and then left to
settle for a few days. Beds are double-dug a second time and
nutrients are added. Instead of double-digging, many gardeners work
the beds as deeply as they can without disturbing the soil
stratification too much. They then work in the nutrients. Whichever
method is used, the nutrients are the same. A soil test will
indicate the requirements for potassium, phosphorous, magnesium or
calcium. Nitrogen can be added in the form of well-rotted manure or
mineral fertilizer. Use 2 to 3 pounds of 10-10-10 garden fertilizer
per 100 square feet of garden space. A generous amount of compost
will help improve soil structure.

Once the bed has been worked, the soil will be 4 to 8 inches above
the paths. At this point the gardener may either mound the bed or
enclose it.

If mounding the bed, rake soil so that the sides slope up at a 45
angle and the top of the bed is flat.

If the beds are to be enclosed, planks of insect and decay
resistant wood such as cypress, redwood, cedar or pressure treated
lumber should be used. If cost is a factor, some gardeners use
recycled lumber treated with wood preservative, but this will be
less durable. The boards are cut to size and then held upright by
2 inches by 2 inches stakes or steel rods or pipes. Railroad ties
and cement blocks, held in place by steel rods or pipes, can be
used. Once the enclosure is made, the soil inside is raked flat.

The beds are now ready for planting. Careful planting is needed for
maximum yields. Vegetables are planted in blocks instead of rows.
Interplant crops which mature at different times. Plant successive
plantings of the same crop so harvest is spaced over a longer
period of time. A list of books that may help you in choosing crops
has been provided. With care, the gardener will have a beautiful
garden, bumper crops and much fun growing them.

FURTHER READING

Raised Bed Construction

SUNSET GARDEN & PATIO BUILDING BOOK - Lane Publishing Company

Intensive Gardening

BETTER VEGETABLE GARDENS THE CHINESE WAY - Peter Chan and Spencer
Gill
GARDEN WAY'S JOY OF GARDENING - Dick Raymond
BACKYARD BONANZA - Editors of Organic Gardening Magazine
HIGH YIELD GARDENING - Marjorie B. Hunt and Brenda Bortz

Prepared by Peg Baseden, Master Gardener
7/94
------- 
HG>  Danny:
HG>         I am intrigued by your mentioning of "plants on
HG> raised beds".
HG> How high were they raised and why?

The farm land here is very flat and we use a lister plow to form these beds
anywhere from 6 to 12 inches high.  The purpose being as we flood irrigate down
these rows.  It is not uncommon to have half mile long rows here. Very few
fields less than 40 acres with quarter sections (160 acres) being the norm.
Primary crops grown here are short staple cotton, milo, corn, wheat, and a
smattering of vegtables.  Our average rainfall here is around 18 inches
per year making irrigation necessary.  Our irrigation water comes from the
Aqualia aquafier. This is a band of underground water that stretches from
Nebraska to South Texas as I remember...  To get this water to the surface six
cylinder or V-8 engines powered by natural gas is the norm with some electric
powered wells.  Depth to water can vary from 200 to 450 feet.

Regards DD
