          WARNING  WARNING WARNING!

NOTE OF THE CO-AUTHOR: Once more this file is not terminated
meaning still need of hyper text, pictures and even at times
some translations, however 99% is accurate and can be used as such
so bare with me while I keep on slugging, typing and going nuts
trying to finish this work which keeps on growing and growing.


THE REASON FOR PLACING TRAPS AND SNARES FIRST IS:

TRAPPING  REQUIRES LESS SKILL AND LEAVES YOU FREE  TO  SPEND
TIME FORAGING FOR OTHER FOOD.

IT IS EASIER TO TRAP MOST SMALL PREY THAN TO HUNT THEM.

ALL TRAPS INEFFECTIVE UNLESS:

NOTE:      ALL  THE TRAPS GIVEN IN THIS BOOK ARE INEFFECTIVE
UNLESS THEY ARE SITED CORRECTLY & BAITED PROPERLY.

SNARES  ARE THE SIMPLEST OF TRAPS AND SHOULD BE PART OF  ANY
SURVIVAL KIT.

SNARES WORKING FOR YOU:

Snares,  traps, nylon gill-nets and set line will  work  for
you day & night. Get them in operation as soon as possible.

WHY TRAPPING BEST:

TRAPPING  REQUIRES LESS SKILL AND LEAVES YOU FREE  TO  SPEND
TIME FORAGING FOR OTHER FOOD.

IT IS EASIER TO TRAP MOST SMALL PREY THAN TO HUNT THEM.

However,  because each animal has different habits,  A  WIDE
VARIETY OF TYPES OF TRAPS ARE ESSENTIAL.

THE MORE YOU SET, THE MORE CHANCES YOU HAVE OF SUCCESS.

REGULAR CHECKING IS ESSENTIAL.

WATCH FOR:

The  animal itself, don't get excited when you see it;  very
often  it  is not certain what you are & will remain  still.
Make every movement very slowly & make first shot count

1)   TRAILS:

Usually  beaten down through heavy usage, if  recently  used
these trails are excellent for setting snares.

2)   FEEDING GROUNDS:

Water holes and salt licks are good locations for hunting in
the  early morning or evening. Trails leading to such places
may give excellent site for setting snares, trap.

3)   DENS:

Holes & food stores give good spot for setting up snare.

REMEMBER that the best place to capture an animal is the one
where he goes to look for his food. There place snares etc.

4)   RACKS:

May provide a wealth of information such as type, size, age,
sex  of  animal, direction taken, the age of the tracks  and
whether the animal was frightened.

4b)  TRACKS INDICATE HABITS:

Tracks  made  by  animals on the ground when read  correctly
show the pattern of the animal's habits.

This  calls for continuous and careful observations.  It  is
IMPORTANT  to recognize the fact that animals  are  as  much
creatures of habit as human beings.

A  particular animal will follow the same track to and  from
water day after day.

It  will hunt in the same area continually & only leave  the
area  when driven out by fire, flood, drought and even  then
only temporarily.

5)   DROPPING:

The   best  indication  of  what  animal  has  passed;  will
sometimes reveal favourite roosting spots of birds.

5b)  BAIT DROPPING! YES!:

DEER, CARIBOU, RABBIT BEST SNARE: = SHIT?!?  NO SHIT!!!

Just spread a lot of shit around a circle about 200 feet  in
diameter. It attracts them crazy! Shitting on your  doorstep
kind of style but not your shit just theirs.

Sit  on  it, not shit on it! May sound crazy or shitty  idea
but  it  worked  for  Indians since  the  dawn  of  time  or
MacDonald!

BAITS:

There  are 4 different divisions of animal feeding patterns.
Tree  feeding  animals/ earth digging &  feeding  animals  /
flesh eating animals/ grazing animals.

Baits  for tree feeding = fruits. For earth digging = roots,
insects.  Flesh eaters = flesh. Bait for Grazing =  herbage,
(Grass).

TEST BAITING AND INVENTORY OF AREA:

Thus test baiting you area will show you what animals are in
the localities and what bait they will take.

To  test  an  area select a site which is on a  light  dusty
clean  soil that will clearly show all tracks about 3  to  4
yards square.

Drive 10 to 12 short stakes each about a foot long into  the
ground  and about 3 to  5 feet apart. Make a sketch  map  of
the  position  of  the stakes and notes  of  the  bait  each
carried.

THIS  WORK MUST BE DONE IN THE AFTERNOON. When you have  all
the baits fastened to the pegs, brush the ground clean.

The  following morning you MUST visit the area  and  on  the
soft  dust you will see the tracks of all the creatures that
visited the area during the night.

And  what bait they took also will give you a good  idea  of
your  hunting ground, if plentiful or not. If you then  make
your  traps and bait them with the correct baits, they  will
be effective for you.

TRACKS, BAITS AND LURES:

Trapping calls not only for a knowledge of the mechanics and
construction  of a particular trap or snare but also for  an
intelligent  knowledge of the habits of  the  animal  to  be
caught.

This knowledge can be gained by observation of its movements
and its feeding habits and by its tracks.

We  know that all animals with cloven hooves are grazing but
did  you  know that all animals which leave the track  of  a
thumb or even 2 thumbs are all tree climbing animals.

And the animals which burrow show the track of their digging
claws  quite  clearly  & the animals which  leave  pad  like
tracks are carnivorous (flesh-eaters.)

LURES & SCENT:

THE  USE  OF LURE IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE MOST EFFECTIVE  WAY  TO
KILL MAN SCENT.

Urine  of species of animal you want to trap is an excellent
scent killer. And urine of female of the species taken  when
she  is "on heat" (go for it Tarzan) or in season is  an

INFALLIBLE LURE FOR MALES OF THAT SPECIES.

The urine should be taken from the bladder of a newly killed
female and bottled up for future use.

3 EXCELLENT LURES:

Another  fairly  good  lure is oil of  Aniseed  and  oil  of
Rhodium.*  A very light touch of one of these lures  on  the
bait  is  all that is required. Both will attract most  bush
animals.

SALT  is  also  very effective lure in areas away  from  the
coast but salt in itself is not a scent killer.

NOISE LURES:

Are  often  highly  effective. These may take  the  form  of
special  whistles  or  may be in the form  of  squeaking  or
friction instruments. Noise  lures are not commonly used in
conjunction with traps and snares.

FOOD LURES:

ARE  ALWAYS  HIGHLY EFFECTIVE, small particles of  food  are
scattered lightly around the area of the traps or snares and
the animal scenting this food finds it plentiful in the area
and  scavenges round looking for more till finally he  finds
the bait in the trap & is caught!

Obviously  some of the man scent will be on  the  food  lure
particles and although the animal may be suspicious at first
finding  that  no  harm  comes to him  his  suspicions  will
decrease.

An  excellent  use  for food lure particles  is  to  scatter
thinly  along  an animal trail, and then fairly  thickly  on
either side of simple noose snare.

BANGING AWAY YOUR MEAL:

A  point  of interest is that most tree living animals  will
descend  a  tree  if  the base of the tree  is  consistently
beaten with a heavy instrument such as the back of an axe or
heavy club.

Nocturnal animals will descend a tree in broad daylight  but
the blows MUST be continued and fairly heavy.

It  is probable that the animal feels the shock through  the
tree  and obeying an impulse to quit before the tree  falls,
leaves its hinging place.

This is an excellent method of getting night feeding animals
into daylight for PIX #?* time or meal time.

TYPES OF TRAP: 

Trap  mechanisms make use of following principles: Mangle  /
Strangle / Dangle / Tangle.

The dead-fall mangles. The snare strangles. Springy saplings
can  make a trap more efficient and take the game up in  the
air - it dangles.

The  higher  the sapling the more effectively it  lifts  the
animal. A net tangles. Some traps combine 2 or more of these
principles.

RULES FOR TRAPS:

When setting traps, follow these basic rules:

1)    Avoid disturbing the environment; Don't tread  on  the
game trail. Do all your preparations off the trail and don't
leave  any sign that you have been there.

2)    HIDE SCENT: When constructing or handling traps  don't
leave your scent on them.

Handle as little as possible and wear gloves if you can.  Do
not make trap from pine-wood and set it in a wood of hazel.

Each  tree gives off its own smell- and the animal  you  are
trying  to trap have a very high sense of smell, many  times
sharper than yours.

Although they fear fire they are familiar with the smell  of
smoke  and  exposing a snare to the smoke from a  camp  fire
will mask any human scent

SCENT OFF:

TO  HUNT  SUCCESSFULLY  YOU MUST MAKE YOUR  SMELL  DISAPPEAR
SPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO INSTALL SNARES OR TRAPS.

One  reaches  that  goal by rubbing  his  shoes  with  cedar
branches  or  wild animal grease or oil or by  watering  his
snare since water as fire removes scent.

You  MUST  also put grease or cedar branches on your  gloves
and NEVER HANDLE YOUR SNARES WITH BARE HANDS.

Even if your hands are well covered by gloves it is good  to
rub  your hand with cedar. If no cedars around find  in  the
area  where the snare is going to be installed some aromatic
plants which you rub your gloves with.

Once  an  animal  has been caught with your trap  or  snares
ALWAYS boil those with hot water before using them again.

TIPS TO REMOVE YOUR SCENT:

1)    Spruce  needle or cedar crushed into  your  hands  and
gloves will also be use to be rubbed on your snares or traps
and all its components so as to remove your scent.

2)   Cedar has this double advantage to remove men scent and
to attract the animal.

3)   Dragging a dead bird or spoil meat will help a lot to remove
     your scent.

4)   Also the water or FIRE removes your scent.

LEAVES REMOVE SCENT:

Leaves  crushed have a strong perfume. If you crush them  in
your  hands  before, during and after you have  masked  your
trap, you will leave the scent of the leaves on the trap and
this  will so much stronger than you main scent that it will
drown  the  latter.  Of course your scent  will  remain  all
around the area and the animal will be suspicious.

FIRE REMOVE SCENT:

Fire is a good destroyer of man scent and if you scorch  the
trap  or snare by making a torch of dry grass or dead leaves
you  will cleanse it to the animal's nose and will  be  less
suspicious.

WOMEN AND MEN SCENT:

A  women scent is stronger than men especially if she is  in
her time of menstruation.

BE CAREFUL this attracts bear and other flesh eating animals
who smell blood way off.

ADDED COUNSELS FOR HUNTING:

HIDING YOUR SCENT!:

1)    Men scent can be smelled and discovered by animals  up
to  5 miles around your presence, so don't make it worst  by
having perfume or washing with scented soap or after-shave.

2)    CAMOUFLAGE:    Hide freshly cut ends of wood with mud.
Cover  any  snare on the ground to blend in as naturally  as
possible with its surroundings.

3)   MAKE THEM STRONG:

An ensnared animal is fighting for its life. It exerts a lot
of energy in an attempt to escape. Any weakness in the traps
will be exposed.

TRAPS AND TRAPPING: 

IT IS EASIER TO TRAP MOST SMALL PREY THAN TO HUNT THEM.

Even if you spot a small animal it offers very little target
&  can  easily  take cover. Nevertheless be  ready  to  take
advantage of sitting prey if you get the chance.

There  are many elaborate traps with complicated mechanisms.
They  take  time  to  build & demand  physical  effort.  The
survivor needs simple traps that are easy to REMEMBER & easy
to construct.

ESSENTIAL TO VARY TYPES:

However,  because each animal has different habits,  a  wide
variety of types of traps are ESSENTIAL.

THE MORE YOU SET, THE MORE CHANCES YOU HAVE OF SUCCESS.

If one type fails, an alternative can be set. It is a matter
of trial and error.

The  survivor's  own preservation MUST take precedence  over
humanitarian  principles  and  unfortunately  some  of   the
easiest  traps  can  cause  considerable  suffering  to  the
animal.

A  trap  which  could bring quick death to the  species  for
which  it  is intended, perhaps by strangulation, may  catch
another animal by a limb and leave it suffering for hours.

CHECKING TRAP ESSENTIAL:

REGULAR CHECKING IS ESSENTIAL.

Leaving a trap line unchecked will prolong an animal's  pain
and  increase the risk that your catch may be poached by  an
animal predator.

Or  that  the  prey will have managed painfully to  struggle
free-  animals  are known to bite off limb or inflict  other
self-mutilation to get away from a trap.

CHECKING TRAP:

Avoid to come too close of your trap while checking them.

Just  MAKE  SURE  that they have not been disturbed  and  if
possible  do  not  leave  any hints  of  your  passage  like
spitting etc. and don't bring your dogs along they  leave  a
strong scent.

TRAPPING BEST WAYS TO AVOID ERRORS:

A  great  deal  of error (her-roars?) can be  eliminated  by
studying the animals and their habits.

CHOICE  OF  BAITS  AND  SITES IS  EXTREMELY  IMPORTANT: 

If  one  does not work, try another. BE PATIENT. Give  traps
time. Animal will be very suspicious at first but with  time
will come to accept them and that is when they will run into them.

Even  when on the move, a few simple traps, quickly  set  up
overnight  may be productive. And if you are making  a  more
permanent camp you will be able to set up well planned lines
of traps.

THE MORE YOU SET, THE MORE CHANCES YOU HAVE OF SUCCESS.

Establish  as  large a trap line as you can manage  in  your
area.  Inspect it at first and last light. Collect the  game
and  reset the traps. Repair any traps as necessary and move
those that are repeatedly unfruitful.

TO  BE EFFECTIVE A TRAP MUST BE VERY SENSITIVE, so it may be
fired accidentally.

You will probably have several empty traps for every success
but this does not mean that you are doing things wrong.

You  MUST accept a proportion of failures. They are no cause
for disappointment. (OOPS's).

If  a  trap has not fired, but the bait has gone, it  is  an
indication   either  that  the  bait  was  not  sufficiently
securely  fixed or that the trigger mechanism is too  tight.
Check both when you reset the trap.

By  doing  the  rounds regularly you effectively  patrol  an
area. Noting the many signs of activity or change which help
to build up knowledge of your surroundings.

At the same time you can forage for plants and other food or
note  what is available for later collection. Baiting a trap
will attract the game.

In  a  survival condition food may be scarce but if you know
there are animals to trap a little used as bait may be bring
large rewards. Elephant?

PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE TO TEND YOU TRAPS:

To  eliminate  the  human scent if  you  have  forgotten  to
prepare  your traps or snares, then strongly rub  them  with
crushed  spruce  needles,  this natural  scent  will  remove
suspicion.

Also  REMEMBER to use gloves soaked in blood or coated  with
bee  wax when handling your traps so as to remove your human
scent  keep this special pair of gloves just for  the  traps
handling.

Avoid  to spit or urinate near your traps. NEVER put  #huile
de  charbon#  on your traps, animals will shy  away  at  all
time.

Many  #trappers# hide their traps for 1 to 2 months under  a
manure  pile before using them, they say it removes the  men
scent.

Don't  bring  your dogs while visiting your  traps,  animals
will  smell  their tracks for days and stay away  from  your
traps.

WATER REMOVES ALL SCENTS:

When  possible  throw water on your traps and  around  since
               WATER REMOVES ALL SCENT.

Before setting your traps try them out first to see if  they
work  well yet be careful. NEVER handle traps or snares with
bare hands, use gloves.

PREPARING YOUR TRAP:

Don't  use shiny new trap, let them boil in water  in  which
you have put different Evergreen branches.

After having it made to boil for 1/2 or 3/4 of an hour  they
will become covered with a paint like substances then remove
the traps from the water & hang them to dry by the sun.

This  substance will dry up and harden and will stop it from
rusting and also will destroy the scent of iron /rust.

Another method to darken the traps by letting boil for  many
hours  bark  of oak, maple, birch till the solution  becomes
black.

Place  the  trap  ring between the jaws and deep  the  whole
thing in the solution that you let boil for another hour.

Then  throw  in the solution a chunk of bee wax / #paraffin#
and  let it melt then draw your trap one after the other  so
that  they  are covered with a small coat of wax.  Then  let
them  hang under the trees far from the house of camps  till
they dry.

WHERE TO & NOT TO TRAP:

Find  the game trails or runs that lead from an animal  home
to where it feeds or waters.

Look  for  any natural bottleneck along the route  where  it
will  have to pass through a particular position- a deadwood
fall  or  a  place where the track goes under an obstruction
will be ideal places to set a trap.

Do not place a trap close to an animal's lair. That is where
it sits and listens and sniffs the air. If at all suspicious
it will either stay put or use a less obvious route.

Don't place a trap close to its watering place either. There
too,  the  animal is on its toes and alert, more  likely  to
notice anything unusual.

If  you  lay  traps  down the side of natural  pastures  the
animal will not go near them but use other routes.

However,  when alarmed they panic and will take the shortest
route to cover. That is when the crudest and most obvious of
traps  will  be  successful. Rabbits are  easily  caught  by
causing them to panic.

TRAP CONSTRUCTION:

The simpler traps and snares are made of string or wire.  It
will  be  easier to keep a loop open in the air if  you  use
wire and the wire in your survival tin is ideal.

Even  the most sophisticated need nothing more than a  knife
to  make them out of available wood. The choice of materials
is important. Use strong, springy wood.

Do  not  use  dead wood or wood found on the  ground.  Hazel
takes  a  lot of beating: it is easy to carve & retains  its
spring and strength.

TOGGLE & BAIT RELEASE SNARE:

A  bait bar is wedged between an upright and the lower  part
of  a  toggle, the upper part pressing against  a  retaining
bar.  The principle is like the platform snare with the bait
bar replacing the platform.

Movement  of  the bait bar releases the toggle  which  flies
upward  under  tension from a sapling above, carrying  snare
with it.

Taut  line from bent sapling to end of toggle pulls  against
cross-bar. Bait bar keeps toggle in position.

TOGGLE TRIP RELEASE DEAD-FALL TRAP:

This  uses the same kind of mechanism as the toggle releases
snare though this time the release bar keeping the toggle in
position presses one end of the toggle upwards.

A  line from the toggle passes over a tree limb to support a
bundle of logs or other heavy weight above the trail.

From the release bar a trip line (usually a vine) runs above
the  ground beneath the suspended weight to a firm  securing
point.

Run  the trip line under a forked stick (A*) so that it will
pull the trigger bar sideways when operated.

TOGGLE & BAIT RELEASE DEAD-FALL TRAP: 

A  rock or a group of logs lashed together is supported by a
prop which is balanced over a fixed forked stick.

The  other end of the prop is clear of the ground  and  held
down  by  a short line attached to a toggle which is wrapped
around the upright stick.

The  toggle is kept in place by a bait stick wedged  between
it  and  the  dead fall weight. Dislodging  the  bait  stick
brings  the whole lot down. The forked stick is driven  into
the ground first.

DEAD-FALL TRAPS:

These traps all work on the principle that when the bait  is
taken  a  weight fall on the prey. (Ouch!) All are good  for
pigs, foxes and badgers.

Larger  versions  can  be used for bigger  animals  such  as
bears. (Sorry; no elephant! and no Dinosaurs!)

WARNING!  WARNING!:

The large versions of these dead-fall traps can be extremely
dangerous for humans as well as for the prey for which  they
are intended.

The toggle release & dead-fall traps have trip wires and are
easily  set  off accidentally. Even in a survival  situation
ensure that every one knows exactly where they are.

In  survival  practice keep people away from  them  &  NEVER
leave  such  a  trap set up at the end of an  exercise.  You
cannot set a large dead-fall trap on your own.

Keep  the mechanism to the side of the trail, well away from
the  dropping  weight,  or setting it  will  be  too  risky.
BALANCE IS CRITICAL. You are unlikely to get it right  first
time.

BALANCE LOG: 

A  forked stick, its ends sharpened to dislodge rapidly  and
one fork suitably baited, supports one end of a cross-bar.

The  other end of which rests on a fixed support, held there
by  the weight of the heavy logs or rock which rest on the bar.

When  the bait is taken the whole trap collapses. Angle bait
beneath the trap.

SQUARED-FACE RELEASE TRAP: 

Similar  to the balance log trap but using a notched upright
as  the support the lower face of the notch squared off. Fit
cross  bar  against the squared off lower face  of  the  bar
supporting the weight.

DEAD-FALL TRAP: 

The  weight of a log or other weight suspended over the game
trail  pulls  the line carrying it against a  retaining  bar
held by short pegs secured in a tree trunk.

The line continues as tripwire beneath the weight. MAKE SURE
that the line is long enough and tripwire anchor weak enough
to allow weight to reach the ground.

Set  the pegs slightly downward but keep them short so  that
the bar disengages easily.

DOUBLE-ENDED FIGURE 4 SNARE: 

A  bait is set at right angles across an upright, the  faces
cut  square  and  a shorter trigger lodged between  them  to
maintain their position.

The trigger is linked to a springy sapling and the same line
carries  snares. When the bait bar is dislodged the  trigger
is released.

Four snares will effectively cover both directions on a game
trail, or use in clearings to snare small carnivores.

FIGURE 4 DEAD-FALL TRAP: VERY EFFECTIVE 

This looks complicated but once learned is easily remembered
and very effective.  It can be made to any size.

A  horizontal  bait bar is balanced at right  angles  to  an
upright  with  a  locking  bar,  which  supports  a  weight,
positioned  over the bait, pivoted on the sharpened  tip  of
the upright.

Bait bar notched on top to engage locking arm, square cut on
side  to fit upright. Locking arm sharpened at lower end  to
release quickly, notched at centre to pivot on upright.

SPEAR TRAPS: 

WARNINGS! WARNINGS!:

These traps are particularly good for killing pigs and deer,
but  they  are  EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND  CAN  BE  LETHAL  TO
HUMANS.

ALWAYS  STAND BEHIND THE SPEAR WHEN SETTING and ensure  that
the location and the danger is known to everyone.

Mark  with  signs  to  attract human  attention.  Except  in
survival   situation  NEVER  leave   spear   traps   set   &
unsupervised.

DEAD-FALL SPEAR TRAP: 

This  uses the same mechanism as the dead fall trap but uses
rocks  to add weight & arms the trap with sharpened  sticks.
It delivers a stabbing as well as a stunning blow.

SPRING SPEAR TRAP: 

A  VERY  DANGEROUS TRAP which will kill the game.  Effective
against  wild  pig.  A  springy shaft fitted  with  a  spear
attached, is held taut above the trail.

A  slip ring made from bound creeper or smooth material (not
rough twine which could catch against toggle) attached to  a
trip  wire  acts as a release mechanism. A toggle  (*a)  and
short  line  (to  a fixed upright) hold the spear  shaft  in
tension.

A  further rod through ring is tensed between the near  side
of  the spear shaft and the far face of the upright securing
all until tripped.

PIG SPEAR TRAP: 

Similar to the spring spear trap but operating horizontally,
this trap has the unarmed end of the springy shaft secured &
lashed between four uprights.

At  the business end, the toggle (anchored by a short  line)
retains  the  springy shaft, so long as the toggle  is  held
against the horizontal bar by a ring. The ring is on the end
of  a trip wire, anchored to a post on the other side of the
trail.

MAKE  SURE  that  the  spear is lashed very  firmly  to  the
springy shaft or it my be knocked sideways on impact instead
of plunging into the animal's body.

Spear  shaft  is  set a height level with the  body  of  the
animal  it is designed to kill, or angled to spring to  that
height.

Tension  exerted on the springy shaft requires the  uprights
holding it to be very firmly set in the ground & the lashing
to be strong & secure.

REMEMBER:

Because spear traps are so Dangerous, MAKE SURE the cord and
knots are strong enough to stand the tension.

NEVER  approach  these traps except from Behind  the  spear.
Take no risk where these traps are concerned.

BAITED SPRING SPEAR TRAP: 

Taking  the  suspended bait dislodges a  retaining  ring  to
release the trigger bar, allowing the spear to fly upwards.

The  ring holds the upper end of the trigger bar against  an
upright post, so that it retains the spear shaft.

The  lower  end of the trigger is restrained by a  cord.  To
increase  the traps' efficiency use several spear points  on
the bar.

PERCH SPEAR TRAP: 

This is a good trap for Monkeys. It is similar in action  to
the baited spring spear trap, but uses a perch instead of  a
bait as the trigger mechanism.

If  the  securing ring is around the trunk of a tree  rather
than  a post. MAKE SURE that it is on a smooth area and  can
move easily.

BOW TRAP: WARNING:

NEVER leave this unattended where people could walk into it.
It is a potential man killer. Rambo!

A  simple  bow made of suitable wood (see weapon*)  is  held
taut  and angled to shoot slightly upwards by upright  posts
and a toggle switch with an arrow fitted.

The  trigger bar is held in place by a toggle attached to  a
trip wire, which MUST be routed round to the point of aim.

Keep  the  first stretch of wire close to the mechanism  for
there  is  no  point  in  it  being  tripped  by  an  animal
approaching from behind the bow.

This  trap  is suitable for large and dangerous animals  and
can  work  with  animals coming head  on  to  the  arrow  or
approaching  from  the trip wire side.  (The  quarry  passes
across  the  arrow as it fires.) The arrow may  also  strike
larger animals passing in front of the bow first.

(A*)  Notch  arrow for bowstring and for trigger bar.  Angle
trigger  bar tip to fit arrow notch, cut side to fit  cross-
bar.  Set toggle between bottom of trigger bar and  a  fixed
post. (B*)

ALTERNATIVE TRIGGER MECHANISM:

Cut  a  square face on an upright and a square notch on  the
side of a forked stick to engage it.

Notch  the  upper face of the stick to hold  the  bowstring.
Attach trip wire to other prong of fork.

SALT TRAP:

Salt  is  a necessary element of man and wildlife alike.  So
necessary  in fact that it has been seen that a deer  and  a
cougar will share the same salt lick in their enforced truce
of salt starvation.

Taking  this  knowledge into practice, one can  install  his
salt trap easily to capture any wild life like wolves, bear,
deer, etc.

All you have to do is to put those cow salt blocks on a lets
say a 3 miles triangle in the summer months.

And  when the fall hunting season comes along just go  where
you  put them & replaced them by new ones, the game will  go
there and you will then be ready to hit them.

WOLF HUNT:

Should wolves become to much a bother, then the Eskimo  will
spread  some  fresh blood upon the blade of  his  knife  and
stick the knife handle in the snow letting the blade in full
view.  Hiding behind the igloo door he sees the wolf  coming
up guided by his nose.

The  wolf  licks the blade and by so doing cuts  itself  now
excited   by  the  smell  and  taste  the  wolf  gets   more
exasperated  and  looses all cautions  licking  and  cutting
itself crazy and after a while he becomes too weak and  dies
from having fed himself on its own blood.

WOLF HUNTING TRICK 2:

Using  a simple whale #fanon# the Eskimo cuts into the  long
#lame cornee a flexible languette# which he then sharpens at
both end.

Then  he bends this #languette# as much as possible and ties
it  together using an animal #ligament nerve# and hides  the
whole thing into a piece of lard which he lets into the cold
to  harden  abandoning it nearby the  area  where  the  wolf
hunts.

The wolf comes & swallows the piece in one shot, good stuff!
But  soon the lard will melt into the wolf stomach and  then
the  whale  #fanon# will spring open and puncture  with  its
sharp ends the abdominal walls of the wolf. Bingo!

FOX SNARES:

One  of the best trap is the one that you have installed  in
on  old  empty  tree  trunk or stump and have  covered  with
rotten wood.

IT  IS ALWAYS READY AND ONE OF THE BEST AMBUSH FOR FOXES AND
ALIKE.

Another  method  according to an old  Indian  is  to  simply
attach  a  bird  to  a  small stone and  with  the  help  of
invisible wires.

Then  you  place this bait at water level about 1 foot  from
shore placing also your trap facing your bait near the water
edge and slightly hidden in the sand or grass. Take also the
precaution  to water many a time your snares  and  baits  to
remove your scent.

In  Winter  you can tend your trap in the snow  around  some
fresh carcass or in well-beaten fox track path.

Your  trap MUST be covered with a thin layer of paper and  a
fine  powder of snow on top of it. Secure your trap  with  a
good stone or to a tree.

REMEMBER ABOUT BACON BAIT:

I  repeat this is the BEST BAIT FOR ALL CARNIVOROUS  ANIMALS
SMALL OR BIG.

From mink to bear to wolves etc. Just fry it and try it next
time, but BEWARE it does attracts them from miles around  so
be  prepared to fight, kill or get the hell out of the  way,
they want that Bacon!

SNARES METHODS: 

Whatever  species  one can capture with a snare  beside  the
rabbit or hare there is also the fox, coyote, wolf, lynx  or
bobcat etc.

However  beavers,  muskrat etc. can  not  be  taken  in  the
following  snares due to their physical shape being  largely
different.

But  the  following methods are proven techniques used  with
success over many years.

With  one  own  experience one can invent  other  variations
which will adapt itself to the terrain or species.

On  a  path where you would find a lynx you will very  often
find that the lynx follows the hare own path in the hope  of
a good meal.

So  you  will install in an "X" shape 2 trees about 4  to  6
inches  which will meet or cross at about 30 inches off  the
ground.

Install your first snare with a 9 inches diameter under  the
"X"  at 16 inches off the ground, then a second snare of the
same  diameter on top of the "X" in case the lynx would jump
over the "X".

ANOTHER METHOD:

Is  to install a snare with a bait. Over an uprooted tree or
on  a big low branch at about 7 feet off the ground you will
put an or rabbit or any good bait for the lynx.

Put  your  snare  about 8 inches above the trunk  with  a  9
inches diameter, if need be add a branch in order to sustain
it. 

For  the lynx you need galvanised steel cable 3/32th  of  an
inch, or 7X7 aviation cable* & 36 inches long are ideal.

Note  that the method shown here can be used for any animals
named  above and the only change being the size of the cable
used  as  snare and the height where you will put the  snare
which will vary according to the species you are hunting.

If  you  hunt  foxes and that you know that there  are  also
coyotes  then  use  the size for the coyote,  otherwise  the
snare will not resist the coyote.

For a fox use a steel galvanised cable 1/16th of inch or 7X7
aviation  type  and 36 in. long. For the coyote  use  3/32th
inch.  7X7  aviation & 48 inches long. For the  wolf  use  a
1/8th in. 7X7 aviation of 48 in. long is best.

Once  you want to hunt these animals it would be much better
if  you can, to prospect your area in the summer, where  you
plan to put your snares.

So as to better spot the ideal location for them and to give
them  a lot of time to get used to your installations. Among
the  various places visited by these animals there are  also
trails of bigger games.

Look  for  a spot where the trail is blocked by a dead  tree
which  forces the big games to jump over it but which  would
at the same time leave enough free space to permit the lynx,
fox etc. to go under it.
Reduce  to  about 14 inches the width of this passage  under
the tree by using vertical branches as a kind of barrier.

When  the time comes for your snares to be put in place  you
will have the perfect spot for them.

OTHER METHODS:

Among other places to hunt, there are the beavers dams which
the lynx, fox etc. use as means of bridges & to go hunting.

There  you will plant strongly a strong stick about 3  to  4
inches in diameter which will be used to hold your snare.

REMEMBER to use a dry stick if you don't want the beavers to
cut it off.

Fox,  lynx  etc. frequently use small streams and rivers  to
move during the winter when the ice is frozen. Look for  the
spots where it becomes narrower and restricted by #aulnes#.

Using  those branches to reduce this passage so as to  leave
only 2 openings since they usually travel in pairs. 

Another  method is to use a "corridor." In the  forest  look
for  a  place  used by them but which at the  same  time  is
particularly full of all kind of natural obstacles.

Once  you have found one of those "corridor", trace  a  path
about  15 inches wide and 100 feet long which you will clear
of all branches, leaves and grass blades.

In  the centre you will dig a hole into which you will  bury
the  bait which would have been covered slightly with  earth
and leaves.

You  will then install a snare on both sides of the bait  at
about 12 feet of the snare.

METHOD #3:  BRION STYLE

Similar  to the one above consist in building a coral  about
30 feet in diameter while leaving 4 to 6 openings into which
you have installed your snares.

The  interior of the coral will have been completely cleared
off  and the bait placed in its centre will consist  of  any
parts of any game either big or even domestic ones.

Close to the bait, on a stump or stick you will have smeared
a few drops of animal urine.

REMEMBER NEVER put any urine or drogue on or near the snares
at the exception of the "corridor" or coral. pix 5 p.371*

SNARES: 

SNARES  ARE THE SIMPLEST OF TRAPS AND SHOULD BE PART OF  ANY
SURVIVAL KIT.

They are made of non-ferrous wire with a running eye at  one
end  through  which the other end of the wire passes  before
being firmly anchored to a stake, rock or tree.

A  snare is a free-running noose which can catch small  game
around  the throat and larger game around the legs. A  snare
can be improvised from string, rope, twine or wire.

Consider the kind of animal you are trying to trap when  you
place  a snare. A rabbit for instance, tends to sit in cover
and observe.

When  satisfied that all is well it hops along. Setting  the
snare  at a hand's length from a fall or obstruction on  the
trail accommodates this hop.

If  the  snare  is closer to an obstruction the  rabbit  may
brush it aside. A wire snare can be supported off the ground
on  twigs, which can also be used to keep a suspended string
noose open.

USING A SIMPLE SNARE:

For  rabbits and small animals. Use your judgement to  scale
up  these proportions for larger creatures such as foxes and
badgers.

1)   Make the loop a fist width wide.

2)     Set it four fingers above the ground & 1 hand's width
     from an obstruction on the trail.

3)    Check  that  it  is securely anchored  with  twigs  to
     support the loop in position if need be.

SNARES UNDER TENSION:

Make a snare more effective by using a sapling under tension
to lift the game clear of the ground when it is released.

This  robs  the animal of purchase in its struggle  to  free
itself and also helps to keep it out of reach of predators.

SPRING SNARE: 

When  game is caught the trigger bar disengages and prey  is
lifted off the ground.

Good  for  animals such as rabbits and foxes, it  will  trap
game  coming  in both directions and is ideally situated  on
the game trail by a natural bottleneck caused by a dead fall
or a rocky outcrop.

Cut  notch in trigger bar (a*) to fit notch in upright (b*).
Drive  upright into ground. Attach snare to trigger bar  and
use cord to sapling to keep tension.

BAITED SPRING SNARE:

Mechanism  as  for  spring snare, but  here  the  quarry  is
tempted  with  a  tasty morsel. The noose  is  laid  on  the
ground,  the bait strung above. As the game takes  the  bait
the trigger is released.

Suitable  for medium-sized animals such as foxes, this  trap
can  be  located  in an open area as the bail  will  attract
attention.

Small  clearings in woods are good sites. The  bait  support
stake should be only lightly driven into the ground as  this
MUST fly away with the noose.

BAITED SPRING LEG SNARE:

The  prongs  of  a natural fork of wood, or  2  sticks  tied
together, are pushed firmly into the ground. The line from a
bent  sapling is tied to a toggle and to the snare  and  the
toggle then passed under the fork.

When  the  game takes the bait, which is on  the  end  of  a
separate  bar,  the bar disengages and the toggle  flies  up
carrying the snare & hopefully the game.

This is a trap for larger game such as deer, bears and large
felines.  For the herbivorous deer bait with blood or  scent
glands, which will arouse its curiosity.

The upper end of the toggle presses against the fork and the
lower  end is prevented from pulling back through by a  bait
bar  between  it and the fork- the pressure  of  the  toggle
holding it in position.  (PIX #?* 97*).

SPRING TENSION SNARE:

The  upward counter thrust from the keep stick (a*) on which
the snare arm (b*) rests prevents the switch from pulling it up.

When  the game becomes ensnared the snare is dislodged  from
the  keeper  stick and the switch line slips off  the  other
end. Suitable for small animals such as rabbit.

Site  it on the game trail. Note how the switch line secures
one  end  of  snare arm (b*) while the other  rests  on  the
keeper stick (a*)  keep the switch line near the end of  the
snare arm. (c*) 

TRAPEZE SPRING SNARE: 

This  snare  can  be  used to cover 2 game  trails  in  open
country. The arm carries two snares and is held in  a  notch
by the tension of the switch line.

Once  ensnared,  the  animal' struggles will  disengage  the
snare  arm  regardless  of  the  direction  from  which   it
originally approached.

ROLLER SPRING SNARE:

A  rounded grip holds the snare arm here, the switch line is
best pulled back at a slight angle to keep it in place.

Suitable  for  animals such as rabbits and  foxes.  Although
tensed  in  one  direction, the bar  will  dislodged  by  an
animal's struggles.

A  wide area can be covered by employing several snares on a
long  horizontal  bar. Use where the game  trail  widens  or
offers options. 

THE PLATFORM TRAP:

This trap is ideally sited in a small depression on the game
trail. Snares are placed on the platform on either side.

When  the  platform is depressed the trigger bar is released
and  the game held firmly by the leg. Ideal for larger game-
such as deer, bears or large cats.

A  platform  of  sticks, stiff bark or other firm  materials
rests on bottom bar, upper bar fits in notches.

A  similar mechanism (A*) to that of the platform trap,  but
using  a  large  snare  and  no platform,  is  activated  by
displacement of either toggle or bottom bar to  catch  small
game by the neck.

STEPPED BAIT RELEASE SNARE:

Two forked sticks hold down a cross-bar which engages with a
baited notched upright (attached to a line in tension) which
holds it in place and carries the snares.

Site this trap in clearing to catch small carnivores & pigs.
Retaining  bar, at least a section of it, should be  squared
off to fit a square cut notch on the bait stick.

DOUBLE SPRING SNARE:

Two saplings are notched to interlock when bent towards each
other  over  the game trail. A vertical bait bar  is  lashed
near the end of one of them.

Two snares can be attached to each sapling, they need to  be
fairly  stiff wire to hold their positions. This is  another
trap   suitable  for  use  in  clearings  to   catch   small
carnivores. When the bait is taken the game is held  in  the
air between the saplings. 

BAITED HOLE NOOSE:

Digging pits disturbs the environment and leaves a permanent
mark. This will alarm some animals. In others, curiosity may
outweigh discretion and they will investigate.

Baiting  the whole may bring animals sniffing. Foxes,  pigs,
wild  cats and badgers will all dig up rubbish pits and this
could attract them.

The  animal smells the bait and pushes its head down. If  it
goes  past the stakes it will not be able to retract it.  If
it uses a paw it will become ensnared.

Drive four sharpened pliable stakes through the edges of the
pit  to emerge below surface where they are less noticeable.
Lay a noose across them, attached to a post outside pit.

COMMON RABBIT SNARE:

Dead  sticks  may be inserted into the ground to  guide  the
rabbit  into the snare. A:*close up of the loop, wires  MUST
be twisted together.

In  fact  MAKE SURE that whenever you use sticks for  rabbit
snares  that  they are dead wood otherwise the  rabbit  will
chew them off.

RABBITS SNARE & TIPS: 

The  rabbits use the same path over and over & the best  way
to  check  if  the path is a fresh one is to verify  if  the
twigs that are cut are freshly cut.

This  was  his  menu, if they are freshly cut then  this  is
where  you will place your snare. There is no need for  bait
to attract a rabbit unless you use a paddock.

Also there is no need to eliminate human scent. However when
there is moonlight it is better to darken the copper wire by
smoking them with birch bark to stop them from shining.

If  you  have  no copper wire #fil de laiton#  you  can  use
salmon  fish line which you have coated with tobacco  juices
to prevent the rabbit from chewing off the line.

The snare can be fixed to a fix horizontal pole of about 1/2
inch (1.2cm). in diameter and 5 feet (1 1/2m) long.

But  it  is  much  preferable to use a  pole  which  is  not
straight  but  which bends easily because  when  the  rabbit
feels he is snared he gives a sharp thrust thus breaking the
snare and gets away.

The entrance opening of the snare MUST be about 3 1/2 inches
(8cm) and about 5in. (12cm) from the ground.

REMEMBER  the branches or twigs which are used to  fill  the
space  around the snare MUST be dry, otherwise they will  be
eaten by the rabbit.

Don't  forget to place in X shape those twigs directly under
the snare because the rabbit hates to scratch his soft belly
on vertical twigs.

If  instead  of tying your noose to a fix or firm  pole  you
prefer  to use a swinging pole either from a spruce,  willow
or alder then remove the bark and plant it strongly about  5
feet  (1 1/2m) at the right or left of the opening and about
2 feet (60cm) ahead.

In  WINTER  use a dry bending pole because if you use  green
wood  the  wood or pole will stay bent under the  effect  of
frost and will loose its spring motion.

RABBIT SNARE TRICK:

A  hunter used this trick: he made a paddock about 150  feet
(45m) long by 100 feet (30m) wide using spruce branches of 3
feet  (90cm)  high all around in which he left  at  least  a
dozen openings for the snares.

The  baits were placed in the middle and were made  of  fine
fresh  branches of Willow and Alder. In 3 weeks he  captured
27 rabbits.

WINTER SECRET:

One  of  the best winter secret about rabbit bait is to  cut
down a small green (live) Birch, in the morning you will see
that the rabbit have come to eat especially the heads of the
little  branches of your Birch. There is now  the  place  to
tend your snare.

REMEMBER  one  of the weakness of the rabbit  is  that  once
pursued it goes around in a big circle to come back  at  the
start point or at its hide out.

Also it is a night animal feeding at dawn or at sunset.  The
sun  hurts  his eyes so it stays asleep during  the  day  to
avoid the glare.

TRICK #2:  (NOISE)

By hitting the tree stumps or at the root of trees where you
find boroughs and jumping on them you would be surprises how
many rabbits would come out.

Yet if there has been rain or snow all night then the rabbit
will  come  out  to  feed during the day. Shooting  fast  is
normal  and shooting where you just saw the rabbit disappear
is probably where it hides.

The  rabbit  is excessively vulnerable and a few  pieces  of
lead  is  all it takes to kill it. # 4 and # 5 are the  best
size shot.

Once  shot you clean it but you should wait 24 hours  before
eating  it,  and let it marinade in wine all that  time  for
best result.

MINK, MARTIN: & JANE!

These are not rated as table delicacies but if you can shoot
or snare or trap them put them in the pot.

MINK:     (Women best friends)

This  small  animal is very curious, the male  will  usually
travel in a 20 mile range whereas the female sticks around a
couple mile.

It  loves water from which it gathers its food, you find him
along rivers, small streams and looks for fish which is  his
choice food. It eats also rabbits, mice and sometimes  small
birds etc.

HOW TO CAPTURE MINK: (Send Jane!)

There  are  many ways to trap mink using "cabins" which  you
cover  up  with spruce branches or fern or in small  streams
where  you  put your traps in the narrowest place which  you
will  also  be able to capture Muskrats. ALWAYS  place  your
drug  (female  oil) at the door of your "cabins"  near  your
traps.

ANOTHER METHOD:

It is to make a notch on a lumber or any piece of wood which
would stick out of the water in a frozen river and then  you
put your trap on it. The mink will usually get trap since he
loves to play through the ice.

If  your trap is set in the water ALWAYS place the peg  that
retains  it in such a way that the mink stays trap  stopping
it to go to escape in the water.

For  the  FALL  HUNTING the water traps are very  efficient.
Find  a hole or dig one about 8 inches deep and 4 inches  in
diameter upon an over edge bank where the water is of little
depth but where the current is strong.

Put  the  bait at the bottom of the hole and the trap  in  2
inches of water at the opening of the hole.

Cover the hole with dead leaves covered with mud to make  it
stick  together and fix the chain of your trap in deep water
or attach it to a wire or stick so that the animal drowns as
fast  as possible. Fresh fishes are the best bait to capture
the mink.

Throw a couple fish oil drops in the hole or other drugs  to
help you. If you have a box of sardines then it is your  key
to mink & Jane late-her?!?.

MARTEN & RODENT TRAP: (Not Martian) 

This trap can be used for several types of rodents. All  you
need to do is to use a big rat trap which you fix at about 5
feet from the ground.

Or if in winter well above the snow line, use a pole leaning
to  a tree to help the animal reach the trap, then bait  the
rat  trap which fixed well to the tree, the animal  will  do
the rest.

TRAPS NOTE:

Once  an  animal  has been caught with your trap  or  snares
ALWAYS boil those with hot water before using them again.

SNARING GOPHER: (Go for-her?)

To  snare  a  Gopher  you simply chase him  down  his  hole,
stretch a binder-twine noose around the opening, and  crouch
low about 20 feet away.

The  gopher  is by nature extremely curious. Soon  you  will
hear his wheeze chirp from just inside the hole and his head
will appear.

Don't move, he'll come farther. When he is halfway out, yank
on the twine and you've got him.

METHOD#2:

Drowning out is simpler, more crude and depends on a  supply
of  water.  You  sprint  back and  forth  from  the  slough,
fetching water in a can or your hat or bottle.

Then  you  pour it down the hole until the gopher stick  his
head up through the mud. Then you club him. Bingo!

The  trick is to pour the water fast, otherwise you hear  it
gurgling  away  in  the many subterranean  passages  and  no
Gopher. (OOPS! You goofed!)

BALANCE POLE SNARE  USING CORD:

The  "B"*  end should be about 4 lbs heavier than the  other
end.  Make  certain  that the balance pole  will  light  the
rabbit clear of the ground.

The rabbit snares should normally be 4 1/2 inches in diameter and
3 inches from the ground. "C"8  nicks to hold up the snare.

LEANING POLE SNARES: 

MUSKRAT AND BEAVER: *

The  Muskrat  is found in pond, slough and marsh  area,  the
beaver  along  streams and lakes passing through  poplar  on
willow country.

They may be shot while swimming usually in the early morning
or late evening. Beavers and muskrats usually maintain paths
where snare may be placed.

In  the early spring and late fall evidence may be found  of
these animals coming out from under the ice. You may cut one
off from the safety of the water.

The  muskrat is found in swamps and marsh, just spread  open
the  tall grass and you will find his tracks or path. In the
rivers it usually hangs around where there is clay.

BEAVER:

Even  with  its  50  lbs, the beaver is shy  and  suspicious
especially  the elders. The male and female carry  a  double
series of very useful glands giving the "castoreum".

This  oily  extract was used in the dark ages as a universal
remedy  and  it  has  been  used  for  a  long  time  as  an
#antispamodic# and against ear ache as well as with clove.

Old  trappers use it in an infusion which they drink to  get
back on their feet, a sort of perk up natural state.

Today  it  is used in the bait composition because  a  great
number of wild life animals are attracted by this scent.

It  is  carefully  gathered  by  letting  melt  this  yellow
substance in wax #paraffin# in a proportion of 1 to  10  for
the later.

Keep  the extract in a bottle well tight so as not to  loose
the  scent.  The gamy beaver flesh is an excellent  bait  to
attract wolf, lynx,  coyote, fox, skunk & muskrat. Its flesh
is  good food for man. Before roasting the meat, remove  all
the fat and let it rest a while in a light brine.

OTHER BEAVER SNARE: *

At  the beginning of Spring the beaver needs fresh food like
a  willow  of at least 3 inches in diameter, in a  warm  day
they go out around 3 PM if it is cold around 1 PM.

Make  a  fence of DRY TWIGS on each side of their path  with
the  goal to force them to use only this path in their quest
for food.

The  snare a good strong steel wire of 5 threads (1/2cm)  in
diameter is fixed at the end of a swinging pole of which the
big end is at least 6 inches or 14cm in diameter & about  18
feet or 5 1/2m long.

This  pole is placed in the centre of the path in  the  free
space  of the fence. The diameter of the snare is 18  inches
(24cm).  This  snare is retain indirectly to the  ground  by
tying it to the bait

This  bait  is  a  willow stem of about 1/2inch  (1.2cm)  in
diameter  which you have let a few knots & is held in  place
by the underground roots.

The  bait  is  about 6 inches (14cm) behind the  snare.  The
leaning point of the leverage when the snare is in place  is
located  in  a dry wooden fork well fixed in the  ground  at
least 15 inches deep.

The  lower  part  of  the  snare touches  the  ground  &  is
maintained in vertical position by a small piece of dry twig
slanted and fixed in the soil.

When  everything is ready, the big end of the log is  raised
up off the ground at least 6 to 7 feet (180-210cm).

The beaver getting through the opening of the fence will get
in the snare in order to reach the bait.

And in order to do so he has to get its head and one paw  at
least  which does not bother him much since the willow  stem
is fresh and so tempting.

At  the first teeth bite; the stem is cut off and the log no
longer retained goes upward, since the centre of gravity  is
at  the bigger end and the beaver is shut upward hung by the
head  &  one foot and because of its own weight it  can  not
free himself and it soon dies.

TRAPS:

Victor 4 or Conibear 330.

LYNX: * #Bobcat# 

They  are seldom seen except by hunters using tracking dogs.
The meat is most good close to tender young pork.

Where  there  are  a lot of rabbits then usually  there  are
Lynx.  They have a love for catnip  (#valeriane#) and beaver
gland oil.

BAITS:

A  rabbit or a wing of a duck or partridge will do as  bait.
If & when making cabins to snare them ALWAYS use dead wood.

To  snare  them you have to use a really flexible  wire  but
many  trappers use the big cod fish line which is easier  to
carry.  The opening of the snare is 8 to 10 inches (19-24cm)
and about 10-15 inches (24-36cm)  from the ground.

In  order  to keep the snare its shape, coat it with  spruce
gum  or  sap  which  has a second effect of  reducing  human
scent.

LYNX IDEAL SPOT:

The  ideal spot is where the lynx has passed under a toppled
tree. The little work involved is to your advantage.

But  you  will have to plant 2 sticks on each side  of  your
snare and to attach it diagonally to maintain it in place.

In the free space under the snare place 2 sticks in X and  2
or  3  more  placed vertically. The hole MUST be  pentagonal
shape rather than round.

Use  the  same  swinging pole system as  described  for  the
beaver  farther down *p9 but instead of adder as bait behind
the  snare, use a rabbit or wing of duck or catnip or beaver
oil gland.

WIND WING & TRAP FOR LYNX:

Very  easy, along the path used by the lynx choose  a  tree,
let hang a wing coated of catnip oil or beaver oil gland  at
about 4 feet (120cm) from the ground.

The wind will swing it around and will attract the attention
of  the lynx. At the foot of the tree you will have put your
trap  hidden  by dead leaves and well anchored to  a  nearby
tree.

If  the lynx is not dead BEWARE because it can jump up to  8
feet  (240cm) high. One way to get him if no gun and  it  is
caught is to use 2 sticks.

About  5 to 6 feet long (150-180cm) one to keep him  at  bay
and  the  other one has a noose at the end like the one  you
use for birds which you will pass around the head.

As  soon as the lynx feels he is caught instead of trying to
remove it the lynx will catch the rope and will pull  on  it
with  all  its  strengths  thus strangling  himself  in  the
process quickly.

BAIT SNARE FRONT VIEW: 

Balance pole tied to adjacent tree. Ensure that the weighted
balance  pole is balanced & positioned so that it will  lift
the victim clear of the ground.

Side view* showing trigger mechanism. Dotted line represents
the fence which ensures that the animal MUST insert its head
through  the noose to obtain the bait. "A" cord  to  trigger
mechanism "B"* cord with noose.

FOX COYOTE BEEHIVE TRAP: 

Constructed from piled up rocks and stones 6 feet high. Good
to  catch  fox, wolves and coyote. As for the  fox  REMEMBER
that the fox trap should be on crest of hills since the  fox
usually passes on the crest of hills rather than around it.

SNARING BIG GAME: 

SNARES  CAN  BE  SET ON WELL WORN PATHS AND THUS  SAVE  MANY
HOURS OF WALKING.

A  snare made of cable or heavy wire 24 inches in diameter &
suspended  about 18 inches above ground should produce  good
results.

MAKE  CERTAIN  THAT THE SNARE IS VERY WELL ANCHORED.  Use  a
solid  dry  wood  log about 10 feet long  and  6  inches  in
diameter.

APACHE SNARE: 

Another good method when put in a well travelled trail.  Dig
in  the trail a hole about 6 inches deep and the same  width
of the trail.

Put on the hole a rectangular piece of cardboard or piece of
parachute shroud which you have cut in the middle a X  cross
about 12".

Make a snare using shroud webbing #corde de suspente# or any
strong rope and place it on the cardboard and attach it to a
big  log,  once  installed the snare MUST  be  covered  with
grass, leaves & a little dirt.

With  the cardboard or paper you are assured that the  snare
will cling to the animal foot till the rope is fully secured
tight.

The animal will drag the log for a short distance and become
exhausted thus ready to be captured and killed.

#THE SNARE A LA COUTURE ET BOUTIN#:

A  classic  snare in its type. Use with success  with  otter
also  with  Bob cat and the mink or any animals living  near
water.

Construct  a round barrier just wide enough for  the  snare.
The  entrance is placed low enough so that the animal  needs
to lower its head in order to get in.

The  pendulum  is fixed on a tree trunk and MUST  be  fairly
flexible. The bait is attached to it at about 4 feet  so  as
to discourage squirrels.

The  snare is fixed a the other end of the pendulum  and  it
passes through a brace or stud solidly fixed in the tree. It
is  this stud that will hold the animal in the snare when it
will get caught.

SNARES: Diameter 10 inches height = 1/4 inch.

WINTER SNARE TIP 1: 

Attach a snare to a strong stick across the ice hole in  the
snare you will bait it with a small piece of fresh Aspen.

WINTER SNARE TIP 2:

By  fixing  a  big stick in the water through the  ice  hole
around  which you have fixed 2 or more snares. The  bait  is
attached to the trunk. 

SNOW TRAP & SNARE:

If  you  desire to use a trap on snow, let boil water  mixed
with  lime  then dip it in, it will come off all snow-white.
Mix  2  gallons of water with 2 quarts of lime boil it  till
white.

To  cover  up  such  a snow-trap get some waterproof  butter
paper,  cut a piece to the size of your open trap  and  then
make a cut of 3 inches in a form of a cross at the centre of
the paper.

This  will stop the paper from making noise when the  animal
walks  over  it. A little honey on the trap  will  make  the
paper stick.

The  whole trap MUST then be covered of dry dust or of  snow
and another piece of the same kind of paper placed under the
trap would prevent it from freezing up.

SNARE TIPS: 

In  principle and to prevent the animal to break  everything
around  it is better to attach the snare at a flexible  pole
rather than a pole which is strong & rigid.

Your  snare  is rolled around the pole several times  before
attaching it permanently to the height which is desired.

When  the snares have a grand opening and in order  to  help
them retain their shape and stay open, you attach this snare
by  means  of  small black or dark thread to  2  small  pegs
located on each side or use a small twig at the base of  the
snare.

SNARE AT THE END OF A POLE: 

Useful  snare  to  take a bird perch on a branch.  Fix  your
snare  at the end of a pole but you MUST take the precaution
to move it away at least 7 inches from the end of the pole.

And  that  you put it in a diagonal otherwise you will  have
difficulties,  also MAKE SURE that the snare  wire  is  well
attached to the pole.

SWINGING POLE SNARE: 

This  type of snare is made of 3 parts. A swinging  pole,  a
fix horizontal pole holding the snare & the snare itself.

We  use  this  snare  to eliminate the sudden  movements  of
captured animals in the snares to prevent them to break  the
snares  and  to  get away. Many hunters use this  snare  for
rabbits.

The  snare in this case is made of 2 knots placed one on top
of  the other under a fix horizontal pole. The knot above or
retaining knot & the slippery knot under the pole.

The  same wire is used to make the 2 knots and the retaining
knot  is nothing else than the folding of the wire on itself
made  directly under the horizontal fix pole  &  in  contact
with the pole.

This  fold is maintain in position by the upward tension  or
strain  of  the  pole lifting it up and the insertion  of  a
small  piece  of an additional wire attached to  the  master
wire under the pole.

#*Plus  la  tension ascendante est grande plus  la  pression
exercee  sur le repli du fil rend le contact avec le dessous
de la perche eminent.#

If  however  a rabbit or any other animal is caught  in  the
noose it will make a tension in such a way so as to make the
retaining wire knot slide completely & the #equilibrium#  of
the forces will be broken & the swinging pole will bring  it
all up.

OTHER TRAP:

Built  a circle using dry sticks, sticking upward into which
you  have  let  many openings into which are installed  your
snares.  At the centre of the circle you place the bait  for
ex; Aspen oil.

CABINS TRAPPING:

Fox  ex. Those animals which you use little cabins to  snare
them  such  as #martre, pekan, belette, loup-cervier,  chat-
sauvage etc#.

Prepare  those  cabins a couple month ahead and  place  some
baits before the hunting season starts, even your traps near
by  but  not open so that the animal gets used to  them  and
becomes less suspicious thus getting caught easier later on.

As  for your cabins NEVER USE fresh cut wood but ALWAYS  Dry
wood or half rotten which you find in the bush.

The  best  cabins are those found already in  natural  state
such  as hollow tree, hole under fallen tree, piles of rocks
etc.

If  you  find  them in an area used by animals,  place  your
snares  in front of them. But sometimes these "cabins"  MUST
be man made.

They  MUST be just large enough to let the animal get in  so
that  it can not move around inside yet high enough so  that
the animal feels at ease.

HUNTING TIP:

REMEMBER ONCE MORE THAT FAT IS ESSENTIAL TO  SURVIVAL.  
     IT MUST NOT BE WASTED BUT KEPT LIKE GOLD.

To  eat  flesh without any fat for ex. Rabbit will kill  you
just  as not to eat anything, you need fat. How much do  you
need fat, eat it till you don't want any more.

OTTER ICE TRAP: 

1)   Dig a hole in ice or use an otter hole.

2)    Drive in 2 big stakes (pegs) in between which you
     fix a Conibear # 330 which you bait with a fish.

3)    The same technique can be used with a loose snare wire
baited  with  a fish but add to the 2 stakes 2  more  stakes
placed  diagonally so as to solidly fix the  snare.  SNARES:
Diameter 10 inches height = 1/4 inch.

SNARING: 

To  rig a loop set, place the snare on a game trail along  a
slope  or stream so that the weight will fall far enough  to
hoist the animal out of reach of hijacking predators.

JACKING:

Generally  forbidden  practice but OK  in  survival  is  the
jacking  which  is  the  act of attracting  and  holding  an
animal's eyes at night by the beam of light.

Deer  are  among the big game creatures that can be  readily
spotted  and  held in this fashion long enough to  be  shot.
Bear  on the other hand will sometime fall backward in their
haste to scramble out of the way.

WHERE TO JACK: (JILL?)

Likely places for jacking are on the downwind sides of  well
used game trails & water holes.

Licks  are  occasionally  found  where  the  ground  is   so
tremulous  that one may sleep in brush or tall  grass  until
awakened by the quivering caused by the animal weight.

Strategically   located  trees  are  particularly   favoured
locations  both  because the deceptive way  one's  scent  is
dissipated  and  because of the often  increased  visibility
afforded by a seat high amid branches.

Procedures  for  any reasonable contingency should  be  well
thought  out ahead of time for it will be necessary to  move
and hold the light so as to see both animal & sights.

The darker the night is as matter of fact the better in many
respects it will be for jacking.

During  nights when the northern lights are bright  or  when
the  moon  is  large on the other hand one may  be  able  to
distinguish  and  shoot  a  game animal  without  additional
illumination  particularly if he has a good light  gathering
telescope sight or infra red one even better.

SUPPOSE YOU HAVE NO GUN:

The  Hudson Bay CIE recommends the use of dead-falls by  any
of  its employees who may be stranded without adequate  food
in the Northern wilderness.

ESSENTIALLY you might prepare a dead-fall by lifting one end
of a heavy object such as a log.

This  end you would prop up with a stick doing so with  such
studied  insecurity that any animal or bird  who  moved  the
support  would knock it loose. You would probably  encourage
this latter by affixing some bait to the prop.

You  might even go further arranging a few branches so  that
to  reach the bait the victim would place himself so  as  to
receive  the full weight of the dislodged dead-fall back  of
the shoulders.

MAKING A DEATH PIT:

If you may be in one place long enough to justify the effort
you  might  prepare a pit in a heavily travelled game  trail
and  cover  it as deceptively as possible with branches  and
leaves.

Aborigines  to  MAKE SURE that no animals will  escape  from
such a hole often implant sharpened sticks in the bottom  of
the trap to pierce anything that tumbles in.

SNARES SIMPLE EFFECTIVE:

Even if no firearm you may want to set a few snares based on
simple principles and as primitive.

With  strong  enough thong or rope you can  snare  deer  and
larger animals. With nothing huskier than horsehair or light
fish line, squirrels and rabbits can be caught.

A  snare is in effect a slip noose paced with the object  of
tightening  about  and  holding  a  quarry  if  the   latter
inadvertently moves into it.

The  size of the snare depends on the size of the animal you
are  trapping. For ex. on a rabbit trail the loop should  be
about  4"  in diameter and hang from 1 1/2" to 3" above  the
ground.

Lets  assume for the sake of PIX #?**; that we want to snare
a  rabbit  for  the  pot. We can see that  they  like  other
animals follow regular paths.

We  will  then hang the slip noose that the rabbit will  run
headfirst into it and quickly choke himself.

We  may want to go one step further and narrow the trail  at
that particular spot. This can be done in several ways.

We  can drop a branch or small tree as naturally as possible
across the track making a narrow slit in it which to suspend
the noose.

We  can  block the bottom, top and sides of the runway  with
DEAD brush except for a small opening where the loop awaits.

All  possible guile will be bent to make everything seem  as
congruous   (normal)  as  possible,  an  achievement   whose
necessity  increase in direct proportion to the intelligence
of the prey sought.

Trappers  customarily prepare snares moths ahead  and  leave
them  with the noses harmlessly closed until fur season,  to
blend  with the surroundings. Small pot animals however  can
usually be snared by beginners with a minimum of artifice.

A  quick way to collect squirrels for exemple is to  lean  a
pole  against  a  conifer under which there is  considerable
squirrel sign and at 6 or so points on the pole attach small
nooses.

A  squirrel scampering up to the incline runs his head  into
the waiting loop and falls free. Its dangling there does not
seriously deter other squirrel from using the same route and
being so caught themselves.

We  can tie one end of the snare to a stationary object such
as  a  pole  or a tree. We can tie it particularly  if  snow
makes tracking easy, to a drag such as a chink of deadwood.

Preferably  as  shown in the PIX #?** of  snares  that  have
proved  particularly effectual, we can bend  a  sapling  and
arrange a trigger so that the animals will be lifted off its
feet  and  if not choked as humanely as possible  under  the
conditions   at  least  rendered  unable  to  exert   direct
pressure.

BESIEGING A BURROW:

Distasteful  at  it  may  be  to  him,  a  starving  man  is
occasionally  forced to smoke small animals from  places  of
concealment.

Sometimes an animal can also be driven to within reach of  a
club by quantities of water being poured into a burrow.

The  opening may be such that is will be possible to  impale
the creature on a barbed pole or to secure it by twisting  a
forked stick into its hair and skin. One is frequently  able
to dig with success.

One may also have some luck by spreading a noose in front of
the  hole, hiding a short distance away and when the  quarry
ventures out jerking the loop tight.

LEMMING FOR EMERGENCY DIETS:

Lemmings  have been found valuable as an emergency  food  by
RCMP on rescue patrols.

Lemmings  are  the little stub-tail mice that when  reaching
the  ocean  on their migrations occasionally start  swimming
with the possible belief it is just another lake or pond.

In  winter  their nest on a near the ground, deep  in  snow-
drifts and you will have to dig for them. In summer you  can
find them by overturning flat rocks.

You  can get them by setting snares of very fine wire  along
the  runways. Lemmings are constantly preyed upon by shrews,
weasels, foxes and owls. They are edible too.

OTHER WEAPONS:

Both  slingshots and bows & arrows you are only  limited  by
the material. Their successfulness depends on practice.

You will be the best Jane or Crusoe you can, and if you have
the ingenuity & resources necessary anyway you are likely to
succeed.

PORCUPINE:

They  are like thistles and nettles a better eating than  it
might seem reasonable to expect.

He  is  ravenous  for salt slow moving and dull  rodent  and
anything  that  is touched by human will be investigated  by
sharp inquisitive teeth for salt moisture.

The  porcupine  is  the one animal that  even  the  greenest
tenderfoot though weak with hunger can kill with a weapon no
bigger than a stick.

All  one  usually has to do thus to collect a meal is  reach
over  the  animal & strike it on the head. Being so  low  in
intelligence, the hedgehog requires a lot more killing  than
might be expected. (Numb skull?).

Porcupine can not of course shoot their quills but any  that
are  stuck  in  the  flesh by contact  MUST  be  pulled  out
immediately for their barbed tips cause them to be gradually
worked in out of sight.

Dogs  are common victims. If your dog gets thus caught  then
lash the pet as motionless as possible against a tree &  use
your weight for any necessary additional leverage.

Pincer can be improvised by splitting a short branch. At any
rate each of the hundreds of quills has to come out or death
may be the last painful result.

This  danger  from quills is one reason why  it  is  a  poor
practice  to  cook a porcupine by tossing it  into  a  small
fire.

Very  often all the quills are not burned off. Even if  they
are  considerable  amount of fat is lost  as  well.

               FAT IS ESSENTIAL IN SURVIVAL.

BEST WAY TO SKIN A PORCUPINE:

The  BEST  PROCEDURE  is  to skin out  the  porcupine  first
turning it over so as to make the initial incision along the
smooth  underneath portion, and peel the hair back over  the
top of the quills.

Work from the inside of the skin to prevent contact with the
quills.

Many  who  have dined on this meat consider the surprisingly
large liver uncommonly toothsome and good to eat.

Porcupine  is found in most forested area, watch  for  trees
with the bark freshly stripped off fairly high above ground.

MAKE SURE IT IS DEAD BEFORE TOUCHING IT. Use a stick.

THE MOST WIDELY HUNTED GAME ANIMAL: RABBIT BOX BUNNY!

Hi Doc! Unfortunately Tularaemia is occasionally a threat is
some  localities, this disease comes usually when  too  many
rabbits it kills the overflow.

Thus it is a little harder to avoid when not hunting with  a
firearm, for one precaution can be to shoot only the rabbits
that appear to be lively & in good health.

The germs of rabbit fever are destroyed by heat, however add
another safeguard by handling the animal with covered  hands
until the meat is thoroughly cooked.

REMEMBER  that  rabbit starvation exists, you  need  fat,  a
strict diet of only rabbit is not enough for survival.

Rabbits are usually easy to clean. One method you may use is
commenced by pinching enough of the loose back skin to  slit
by shoving a knife through. Insert your fingers and tear the
fragile skin apart completely around the rabbit.

Now  peel  back the lower half like a glove disjointing  the
tail  when you come to it and finally cutting off each  hind
foot.

Do  the same thing with the top section of skin loosening it
finally by severing the head and 2 forepaws.

You  can then as you will find out pull the animal open just
below  the  ribs  and flip out the entrails, retrieving  the
heart and liver.

You  may  also want to cut out the small waxy gland  between
each front leg and body.

To stop a rabbit dead on its track or course all you have to
do is to whistle it will stop then shoot!

FOX HUNTING:

Having  sealed all but one exit to the den, you set a  snare
above it and fanned smoke in the hole.

Fleeing,  the animal runs into a noose and forked stick  and
the carving. Tough and gamy its flesh nevertheless satisfies
gnawing appetite to a certain degree.

TREE SNARE # 1:

A  site  is selected on an animal trail where a tall sapling
is  available  a  few feet to one side  of  the  track.  The
sapling  is lopped of its branches and top and a stout  cord
is tied to the head.

Where the bent sapling crosses the trial tall stout pegs are
driven well into the ground on either side of the tracks.

To  the tops of these stakes a cross bar is securely lashed.
There  may  be  occasions when convenient trees  will  serve
instead of stakes.

A  stout cord or rope is tied to the head of the sapling and
a few feet along the cord a thin strong stick is tied.

This  stick  should nearly reach from the  crossbar  to  the
ground. The cord from the sapling is tied a few inches below
one end.

This  end  is  placed under the crossbar and the  lower  end
which  will  now pull forward strongly with the pressure  of
the  bent  sapling's spring is laid against  a  thin  cross-
stick.

The  noose of the snare is lightly tied to the top cross-bar
and  the stakes to keep it spread open. Release is done when
the animal touches either the bottom stick knocking it down,
or the toggle stick with the cord.

Either  action will release the holding down of the  sapling
and  it will spring upright tightening the noose around  the
animal's neck.

TREE SNARE #2:

SIMPLE NOOSE FOR TREE CLIMBING ANIMALS:

A  site is selected by examining a tree which shows the claw
marks of tree climbing animals on its marks.

The  "lean"  of the tree is carefully examined  and  on  the
upper side of the "lean" a stout straight pole 8 to 10  feet
long  and at least 3 to 4 inches thick is placed to  make  a
"path"  for the animal from the ground to well up  the  tree
trunk.

The  animal  will  use this pole to climb the  tree  on  its
nightly  excursions. Onto the upper end of the  pole  set  a
simple wire noose, fastened securely to the pole itself.

The  animal in climbing or descending the pole will put  its
head or paw into the noose and so ensnare itself.

TREE SNARE #3:

LOG FALL: SLIP RELEASE OF BAIT STICK: 

This  log  fall  is suitable for ground living  animals  and
depends  for  its action upon the turning or twisting  of  a
forked bait stick.

One  end  of  which is sharpened to a point  which  in  turn
supports the smoothly cut face of the cross bar on which the
logs  are  lying. Select a site where the animal  feed.  Cut
your bait stick with a widely forked prong.

The  lower end should be roughly sharpened and the  top  end
brought  to  a  sharp point. A stout stake is sharpened  and
bevelled at the head so that it is nearly flat.

This  stake is driven securely into the ground. The 2  or  3
heavy  logs  for the fall are selected and trimmed  so  they
will lie together on the cross bar.

The  cross bar is cut with a squared side at one end and the
other end is trimmed off with a smoothly inclined face.  The
squared side is laid on the top of the bevelled stake.

The  logs are laid on the cross bar and the sharpened points
of  the bait stick are put under the inclined cut on the end
of  the cross bar at such an angle that it will slip off  if
the bait stick is twisted.

The  lower end of the bait stick rests on a chip of bark  or
smooth  flat stone so that it will not sink into the ground.
Sensitivity  is adjusted by the angle of the bait  stick  on
the cut at the end of the cross bar.

LOG FALL & TOGGLE RELEASE: 

Two or three logs are secured to a cross bar as for release.
The  release sticks consist of a forked stick about  2  feet
long for the upright a support stick about 3 feet long.

A  toggle stick of 4 to 5" and a bait stick, long enough  to
reach  from the upright stick to the lower cross bar holding
the logs together.

The  trap  is  set  by standing the upright  with  the  fork
uppermost a few inches in front of the logs.

The  support stick is laid over the fork and to its farthest
and a cord is tied. The length of the cord should reach from
the end of the support stick to the upright stick.

The  end of the cord is fastened to a toggle stick and  this
passed  around  the upright. Against one end of  the  toggle
stick  the  bait  stick is placed so that  its  farther  end
presses against the lowest cross bar.

Release  is done when an animal disturbs the bait stick,  so
releases the toggle, allowing the log fall to drop.

In  the  place  of group of logs for any of  these  traps  a
platform of stakes heavily weighted with big stones  may  be
used with equal efficiency.

LOG FALL: # 3: 

THIS AN EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TRAP.

It is so absolutely unsuspected and sudden that it should be
only used either to guard against surprise from attack if in
a  country  of  hostile  natives or if  set  to  kill  large
animals. THIS TRAP IS A MAN KILLER!

A  site  is  selected along a trail which  the  animal  uses
regularly.  The  site MUST have a branch of a  large  living
tree overhanging the path.

A  heavy line is thrown over the branch so that when allowed
to  hang free its end will lie on the path. To this  line  a
strong  rope  is tied and the rope hauled up  and  over  the
branch.

To one end of the rope a heavy log is slung so that it hangs
horizontally. The log is hoisted to the branch and the  rope
brought back so that it is concealed by the tree trunk

A  toggle is tied where the rope touches the ground. At this
place 2 very strong hooked stakes are driven into the ground
and  a  release similar to any of the noose release  (above)
are used to hold the rope. *** seems prob. Next block?***

To what would be the bait stick in the snare release lengths
of  cord  or  ground vines are tied for a trip cord  is  led
through  the bush parallel to the animal's path to  position
on  either side of the place where the log will drop when it
falls.

This  distance can be calculated by allowing for the log  to
fall  at  the rate of 28 feet  the first second,  56  =  the
second  and  28  feet more for each further second  and  on.
(Drag  on  the cord reduces the log's rate of fall  to  this
figure.)** could be prob. here*

If  the  animal  travels at three miles an  hour,  it  moves
forward  4   feet 6" a second. Thus if the log is  100  feet
above  the path it will take 2 1/2 seconds to fall  and  the
animal  will have moved 11 feet 6" after it has  pulled  the
trip with its  feet.

After  setting this trap it should be given a test drop  and
if  satisfactory reset only after warning people to stay off
this path since this trap is a potential man killer. ******

BOW TRAP FOR GUARDING A PATH: 

AGAIN  A  MAN-KILLER TRAP if the bow is strong and the  trap
properly set, only to be used in case of emergency, Rambozo.
A  bow  of  considerable strength is made and  lashed  to  2
stakes driven securely into the ground.

The  2 stakes are set in 1" or so apart. At right angles  to
the  bow and at the position where the bow string will  come
when  the  bow  is drawn, a third stake is driven  into  the
ground.

The  horizontal angle between the lower end of this peg  and
the place where the bow is lashed to the twin peg should  be
such that the arrow will be given correct elevation to catch
the  man or animal at a vulnerable height when the trip cord
is  touched. The site should be at the end of a trail or path.

Release  can  be done by a hooked stick which has  a  square
nick cut on the outside edge of one side and at right angles
to  this  cut a reversed nick is cut to take the bow string.
The  rear peg is squared at its rear end and on one side  to
form a right angle.

The  squared  cut of the release stick engages  the  squared
face  of the stake and the thong is hooked over the undercut
nick, so that the bow is held drawn back to the rear peg.

The  arrow notch is in the thong. Release is done  by  tying
the  release cord at the other end of the hooked  stick  and
leading  the  release cord through the grass or  bush  to  a
position at the edge of the path.

Guiding  of  the  cord is done by means of  inverted  hooked
sticks.  At  the path the release cord is tied to convenient
growing  material such as a wisp of grass,  ground  vine  or
casual stick stuck into the ground lightly.

An  alternative  release is done by deeply  nicking  with  a
square  face  the underside of the arrow. Into this  nick  a
chisel edge release toggle stick is engaged.

The release stick passes in the rear of a short cross bar so
that the forward pull of the bow pulls the lower end of  the
release stick to the rear.

This  lower end is pressed against a trigger stick which  is
pushed against an anchor peg.

To this trigger stick the trip cord is tied and from here it
is  led through the bush to the path and sets as a trip cord
across  the  path  in the same manner as  the  hooked  stick
release.

REMEMBER  this  is  a MAN-KILLER. NEVER  leave  it  set  and
unguarded unless to defend yourself. Place warning signs  on
path.

THROWER:

There  may  be  occasions when it is  desired  to  create  a
diversion on one side of a path in order to frighten animals
or  people  moving  along the path away  from  and  into  an
ambush.

For  this  purpose a thrower can be set up at  a  convenient
distance  from the path so that when a trip cord is  touched
the thrower will hurl a stone onto the path and so drive the
animal off the path and toward the hunter.

A  forked springy sapling is lashed between 2 trees  as  for
the stabber.

The  end  of the sapling is forked and in the forked  end  a
shallow pouch is woven between the forked sticks.

These  forked sticks should be an angle of  about 45 degrees
from the horizontal towards the path.

The  sapling is bent back and down and secured  as  for  the
stabber  and about 4 feet short of the place where the  head
came  when it was at rest a very stout stake is driven  into
the ground to act as a stop to the forward thrust.

The  sapling MUST be lashed fairly high up the 2  trees  and
bent  downwards to the securing release, so that when it  is
tripped the movement is upwards.

When  the sapling is released and swings upwards it  carries
the  stone in the pouch and coming suddenly to the stop  the
stone is thrown from the forks forward to the path.

PIG STABBER: 

Choose  a  site where 2 trees grow close together  near  the
path  the  animal uses. A very springy sapling  is  cut  and
lashed between the 2 trees so that when unbent it reaches to
the centre of the track.

To  the end of this sapling a sharp dagger-like knife  or  a
pointed spear of hardwood is lashed.

If  wood  is  used MAKE SURE that it is straight  grained  &
harden  the end by scorching over fire. Sharpen  to  a  good
point.

The sapling is bent back as far as your strength will permit
and  note where the bent back of the sapling comes to  above
the  ground. A few  feet back from this point set the sticks
for the release given in the snare seen above.

To  the bait stick of this release tie the trip cord and run
this  along  the  ground to the position at which  the  bent
sapling  came when the head was straight over the path.  The
trip here should be very light and raised a few inches above
the ground.

The  animal  passing  along  the trap  in  either  direction
releases  the  trip  and the sapling is  released  with  the
spear.

BOX TRAP TO CATCH ANIMAL ALIVE:

A  double-ended pen with self-locking doors. This strong pen
of the size required is made with both ends left open.

The  pen is completely roofed over and in the centre one  of
the  cross stick across the roof is squared on one side  and
on  its under surface. The cross pieces at the extreme  ends
are secured extra strongly to take 2 drop doors.

A  couple inch beyond the line of the side walls and about 3
inches  from the end uprights very strong stakes are  driven
into  the ground at an angle leaning away from the  line  of
the pen.

The 2 doors are made and hinged with loops of rope or strong
vine to the end crossbars, across either end of the pen.  On
the  outside 2 supports sticks are crossed about 7"  to  10"
above the roof of the pen.

The release sticks are sharpened at one end to a chisel edge
and  the  bait  stick is cut with a squared step  about  18"
below its top. (The square face at the lower end.)

10"  to  12"  above this and parallel to the  first  cut,  2
square-nicked cuts are made with the squared face on the top
side of the cut.

The  trap  is  set  by putting the bait  stick  between  the
crossbars  and  engaging the squared cut of the  bait  stick
with the squared face of the crossbar.

The chisel end of one of the release sticks is placed in one
of  the  top  nicks of the baited stick and  the  other  end
between  2  of the crossbars of the door. The release  stick
sits on the support sticks as a fulcrum. This is repeated at
the other door.**

Both  doors are now raised and any disturbance of  the  bait
stick  will  release the support sticks and the  doors  will
drop.

The locking device is done by cutting 2 heavy poles about 8"
to 10" longer than the trap is wide.

These  are laid across the top end of either door. When  the
door starts to drop the logs roll down the falling doors and
jam  against  the  outward leaning stakes thus  wedging  the
doors tight.

PORTABLE BOX TRAP #1:

BOX  TRAP  TO  CATCH  ANIMALS ALIVE WITH  EXTERNAL  RELEASE:

A  box is made exactly similar to the box trap on the page*.
A hole is bored in the roof 3 inches from the closed-in end.
The  one  below this, is another eye, and the hooked portion
for the bait some 8 or 10 inches below this lower eye.

With this release the cross wire is placed through the lower
eye, with the top eye above the roof of the box.

The  bait  is  fastened to the hook inside the box  and  the
release wire secure with its own eye to the top eye and  its
farther  end  lying long ways along the roof  with  the  end
itself in a small hole through the bottom of the drop  door,
and in such a position that it holds the door up.

When  the animal takes the bait and drags backward with  it,
the  top end of the bait wire is forced to the rear, and  so
withdraws the wire at the door from the hole and allows  the
door to stop, imprisoning the animal.

PORTABLE BOX TRAP #2:

TO CATCH ANIMALS ALIVE INTERNAL RELEASE:

A  stout box of a size suitable for the animal to be trapped
is made. To one end a sliding door is fitted.

This  door MUST slide up and down easily between 2  grooves.
On  the  inside of the door and near the lower end  a  small
hole is bored for about 1/4 inch in depth.

On  the  roof of the box, about 3 inches from the  closed-in
end, a hole about 1 inch diameter is bored right through the
wood.

The  release  mechanism is made by taking a piece  of  stiff
wire  (8) gauge, bending an eye in it at the end, an another
eye at about 6 inches lower down.

And  immediately below this lower eye bending the wire in  a
wide  hook and cutting it off at the end of the hook through
the top eye another short piece of wire is passed.

(With the eye in the centre of the hole in the roof) and the
short piece of wire lying parallel to the end of the box, it
is secured in position with a staple at either end.

Another  piece  of  wire is fastened to the  lower  eye  now
inside the box. This piece of wire MUST be just as long that
when the hook is slightly forward.

The piece of wire will engage in the hole which was bored in
a short distance in the foot of the door. The trap is baited
by  securing the bait to the U-shaped hook on the lower  end
of the wire inside the trap.

The free end of the inner piece of wire is placed inside the
hole  at the lower end of the door. When the animal disturbs
the  bait  the wire holding the door is withdrawn,  and  the
door drops imprisoning the animal.

PORTABLE BOX WITH INSIDE STICK RELEASE # 3:

BOX TRAP TO CATCH ANIMALS ALIVE.

There are occasions when a piece of wire may be unobtainable
the this internal stick release can be improvised.

The  box  is  made as for the preceding portable box  traps,
complete with sliding door. For the release 3 forked  sticks
are  used with the bait stick, which should have a  fork  at
one end.

The  length of the 3 forked stick should be such that  2  of
them are equal & about 3/4 quarters the height of the inside
of the box, and the third should be about 1/2 the height.

The  fork a the end of the bait stick is so trimmed that one
end of the fork is about an 1 inch shorter that the other.

Setting  is  done by placing the bottom of the door  on  the
longer of the 2 arms of the fork bait stick with the shorter
arm in the inside of the door.

The  2  longer forks are set near the end of the box,  their
forks  holding the far end of the bait stick  a  few  inches
from its very end.

The  shorter forked stick is placed with its fork  over  the
farthest  end of the bait stick, and its other  end  against
the roof.

The  bait is secured to the bait stick, near the first  pair
of  fork. When the animal takes the bait, it either disturbs
the  setting of the forked sticks which hold the slide  door
up, or it pushes the forked end of the bait stick inwards  &
allows the door to drop.

LOG  ROOFED  PEN  BOX  TYPE BAITED TRAP FOR  CACHING  ANIMAL
ALIVE:

A  pen  of adequate size is made. The pen is built with  two
sides  and one end only across the closed end a strong cross
bar is made and secured.

Release  of the log weighted roof is by means of toggle  and
bait  stick almost exactly similar to the toggle release  of
the log fall.

A  forked stick is stood upright a few inches from one  side
of  the  trap at the open end. Across the fork a  supporting
stick is placed with the end of the roof resting on it.

To  the far end of this supporting stick a length of cord is
fastened  and  to  the end of this a short toggle  stick  is
tied.

The  end  of  the toggle stick is pressed against  the  bait
stick,  which  in turns is pressed against the  bait  stick,
which in turn is pressed against the stakes opposite and  at
the far end of the pen.

Disturbance  of the bait stick releases its engagement  with
the  toggle  stick which in turn releases the support  stick
and the door falls heavily.   Ouch! Imprisoning the animal..

TRAP FOR BIG GAME: 

Trap  which is secured by 2 pegs knocked into a tree with  a
third  peg under their ends held in position by the pull  of
the heavy wooden pole.
When the game runs into the noose the peg is pulled out  and
the pole drops, tightening the noose by its weight.

BOX TRAP FOR CATCHING SMALL ANIMALS ALIVE:

BIRD TRAP BRION STYLE:

FALLING CAGE FIGURE 4 RELEASE:

A  cage  either  of  sticks lashed to a pyramidal  or  other
suitable  shape of box wood or netting is made  of  adequate
size.

Release  is made by means of the figure 4 release.  This  an
excellent  trap for ground feeding birds & if the ground  is
baited  with grain or small fruits it is a certain trap  for
pigeons.

The  upright stick is cut with a chisel edge at one end, and
where  it will cross the top of the upright, a nick  is  cut
parallel to the chisel edge.

The  bait stick has a nick undercut at the thickest end, and
at  the place where it will cross the upright it has  a  cut
made  with a square faced a the end of the cut farthest from
the undercut nick.

Setting is done by standing the upright in front of the trap
and  placing the support stick with its nick on  the  chisel
edge  of the upright and the upper end supporting the raised
edge of the box.

The  chisel  end  of  the support stick  is  placed  in  the
undercut nick at the end of the bait stick.

The  squared cut in the bait stick should now engage with  a
squared face of the support stick and with the baited end of
the stick well under the trap.

BOLA USE AND MAKING:

One  can  improvise  a bola a missile weapon  consisting  of
stones attached to the ends of thongs.

The  Spanish  and  Eskimos use a device of  this  type  also
consisting of several cords about a yard long with  a  small
weight at the extremity of each.

The  BOLA  is  grasped at the centre from  which  all  cords
radiate and the weights are twirled above the head.
Twirled  at  flying birds the spinning strings  often  twist
around one or more and bring them to the grounds.

BOLA: 

A  weapon that Eskimos use against birds. Stones are wrapped
in  circles of material and 90cm (3 feet) lengths of  string
knotted  around  each, the other ends of  the  string  being
firmly tied together.

Held  at  the joined end they are twirled around  the  head.
When released they fly through the air covering a wide area.

The  Gauchos  of  South  America use  the  same  weapon  and
variations have been used in combat.

The bola wraps around a bird in flight or tangles around  an
animal's  leg or neck, bringing it to the ground and  giving
the hunter a chance to kill it.

ALL BIRDS ARE EATABLE:

ALL BIRDS ARE GOOD TO EAT. When they are moulting and unable
to fly, it is not difficult to corner them on foot.

Large  flocks may be also captured occasionally  by  driving
them  into nets or traps. Roosting or nesting birds  can  be
secured by a noose fastened to the end of a pole.

Birds  can  also be caught in fine snares placed where  they
nest, feed or congregate. Dead-fall immobilise them too. You
bait  them either with flesh or grains. Even the riper  eggs
or any eggs it may be possible to secure are nourishing.

If  one  has a continue access to a large colony at  nesting
time one way to be assured of fresh eggs is to mark whatever
is  already in the nest perhaps removing all but  a  few  if
conditions seem to justify it.

SUCCESSFUL BIRD TRAPS:

This  traps also work well with birds. A stick fence put  up
in a narrowing spiral and baited will sometimes catch in its
centre fowl such as quail.

Geese  can  be bagged in a ditch some four  feet  deep  into
which they are led by bait such as wild grain.

When  one rushes suddenly at the geese, they try to fly  but
are unable to spread their wings. Go slowly then kill fast.

Turkeys  are  also  taken  by  the  use  of  bait  one  ruse
consisting of attracting them head down under a low fence.

Once  turkeys  so  pen themselves and upon  finishing  their
pecking raise their long necks it often takes them too  long
a time to figure how to react.  (Too bad!).

SCAVENGERS EASILY CAUGHT:

GOURGE:

Gulls  and  other  scavenger birds can  be  easily  although
unpleasantly  caught  by a man who is desperate  enough  for
food.

A  short stick of bone sharpened at both ends is secured  in
the  middle  by a line, preferably tied to something  limber
such as a sapling and is then concealed in some bait such as
a decomposed fish.

This  also work for WOLVES but the trick is to use a pliable
bone and bend it as much as possible then tie it together, a
small incision in the 3/4 part would help to secure the line
so it does not slip.

Once  the wolf gobbles up this good size meatball, the  bone
once  in  the  intestine will spring open and perforate  the
innards  of the wolves thus kill him. But this would  be  to
get rid of him since he will not die fast.

MEXICAN STRATAGEM & TRICKS:

An  ancient  way for capturing ducks and one  which  can  be
varied  almost indefinitely to fit the circumstances is  set
in motion by the tossing of dozens of gourds into a lake.

The  water fowl will become accustomed to them by  the  time
you  stole  in the water head hidden in the gourd which  has
been perforated to permit seeing and breathing.

The  hunter advances slowly toward a flock at about the same
speed  with  which the shell might drift.  Starting  at  the
outside, you pull ducks quickly downward by their feet twist
their  neck  and shove them one by one into a  bag  at  your
side.

GETTING BIRDS WITHOUT GUNS:

Game birds such as Ptarmigan and Grouse, promise feasts  for
anybody lost in the wilderness especially as a few stones or
sticks are often the only weapons needed.

If one misses the first time such fowl usually will afford a
second and even a third try.

When they fly they usually go only but a short distance  and
may  be  successfully followed particularly if this is  done
casually  and at such a tangent that it would seem that  one
were going to stroll on past.

ANY BIRDS AS A MATTER OF FACT WILL FURNISH GOOD EATING IN AN
EMERGENCY.

The  only difference is that some are tenderer, plummer  and
to different taste better flavoured then others.

BIRD TRAP & MOUSE ETC.:

A stake is set either on a stone or some place where it will
lie  flat and secure even upon a floating tree if big enough
will do.

You  attach to it one of those big mouse traps and the  bird
in  taking  the bait, springs the trap which cuts  into  its
skull killing it instantly.

BIRDS TRAP POACHER METHOD:

For  killing  pheasants,  pigeons  and  grass  eating  birds
(turkey  chicken) is to soak split peas and  then  put  thin
wire  through them, leaving about 1/2 inch of wire projected
from either side of the peas.

The birds pick up the peas. The wire pierces their crops and
they  die  quickly. This is also illegal,  only  use  it  in
Survival.

UPLAND GAME BIRDS:

Grouse  and  Partridge  are most  often  found  roosting  in
thickets, sunning on side slopes or feeding on the ground.

Usually  these  birds will not fly very far when  frightened
and  therefore it is better to flush them out, wait for them
to land before shooting them.

If  their roosting area can be found they are snared  easily
by using a pole with a wire noose attached to the end.

Be  certain and take the partridge closest to you. This  way
you will not frighten the others.

Spruce  Grouse  Ptarmigan* in the Arctic  frequently  remain
motionless thereby seeking to avoid detection. Some  may  be
killed by throwing sticks and rocks.

WATER FOWL:

Birds  such  as  Ducks,  Geese and Coots  are  usually  more
difficult  to approach than upland game. They  can  be  shot
taking into consideration the way the wind and current  will
take them.

If  Geese  or Ducks are found during the moulting period  it
may  be  possible to run them to the ground. Don't  overlook
the eggs or the very young.

ALL CANADIAN BIRDS ARE EDIBLE:

But  do not waste ammo for little gain. Use the snares shown
above for birds or this new one: which is quite effective in
capturing many of these smaller birds.

OJIBWA BIRD SNARE: 

For  the bird to obtain bait it MUST land on the perch which
is  held in place by tension of the knot. Weight of the bird
releases the tension on the knot and the weight on the  side
of the post pulls the snare tight on the birds legs.

NOOSE SNARE STICKS FOR SMALL BIRDS:

A  straight stick 3 to 4  feet long is selected.  Onto  this
many  fine nooses, each between 1/2" to 1" in size of  horse
hair  are tied securely and the stick is then tied with  the
nooses  uppermost  to  a  shrub or small  tree  which  is  a
favourite resting place for small birds.

They alight on the stick and their feet become entangled  in
the  snares.  One or 2 birds so caught will call  others  to
them and in a short time 7 or 8 birds will all be snared  on
the noose stick. BBQ time. This snare is illegal.

BIRD TRAPS: NETS:

A  fine  net stretched between the trees where birds usually
roost  is one of the simplest ways of catching them. Instead
of a net, fine twine cris-crossed between trees across their
flight path will damage birds which fly into it.

BIRD LIME:

Liming is an ancient way of catching small birds. Boil holly
leaves  and any starchy grain in water and simmer until  you
have a gooey mess.

Spread  this on the branches or other perching places before
the  birds come home to roost and they will get stuck in  it
when they alight.

SUSPENDED SNARES:

Hang  a line of snares across a stream a little above  water
lever. This works best when set among reeds & rushes.

BAITED HOOKS: 

Fish hooks buried in fruit or other food can be an effective
way  of  catching birds. The hook gets caught in the  bird's
throat.

NOOSE STICKS: 

Tie  many  fine nooses 1.25 - 2.5cm (1/2-1 in) in  diameter,
close  together  along  a stick or a branch,  use  horsehair
preferably by any strong material will do.

Place the stick in a favourite roosting or nesting spot with
the  nooses  uppermost.  Birds become  entangled  when  they
alight. Do not remove as soon as on bird is caught. It  will
attract other birds and you will soon have several.

FIGURE 4 TRAP:

This mechanism (see fig. 4 dead-fall) can be used with a log
cabin  type  cage,  made  from  a  pyramid  of  sticks  tied
together,  which is balanced over the bait. For small  birds
you can use a quick method of making the cage.

BIRD CAGE:

Lay  all the sticks in position then lay another two sticks,
the  same  length as the bottom ones, on top  and  tie  them
tightly  to the bottom layer, tight enough to keel  all  the
others in place.

Larger animals will soon break out of this and for them each
stick MUST be individually tied in.

Experiment  with different ways of making a  cage.  You  may
have  a  suitable box or large tin which would  do  just  as
well.  It  is also possible to prop the raised edge  of  the
cage on a single stick tied to a long line.

Take  the other end of the line and hide some distance away.
If  you hold the string tight, you can snatch the prop  away
as  soon  as bird ventures under the cage. Bingo!  Broadcast
bait  around  and under the cage. This works best  in  areas
where birds seem plentiful.

TOGGLE RELEASE NET TRAP: 

A  net  laid on the ground and baited to attract  birds  has
lines from the corners to a springy sapling overhead.

A  tension line extends to a toggle mechanism (see* previous
trap) notched on to a horizontal bar and operated by a  flat
bait  stick. Set the bait stick off the ground &  only  just
resting against the lower end of the toggle.

This trigger mechanism needs to be extremely sensitive if  a
small bird's weight is to set it off.

Bait  scattered across the net will attract birds which will
be caught when one steps on the bait bar.

REMEMBER:

If  you set traps in a training exercise MAKE SURE that they
are  clearly  marked so that they are not set off  by  other
people.

Spear  and  dead-fall  traps should be  supervised  to  keep
people  away for they could inflict serious injury or  kill.
ALL traps should be dismantles when the exercise is over.

HUNTING BIRDS: 

RUNNING NOOSE:

A  noose  attached  to a long pole is an  effective  way  of
pulling roosting birds down from lower branches.

Make  a  note  of  roosting and nest  sites-  REMEMBER  that
droppings will help guide you to them and if they are within
reach  return  stealthily on nights when there's  sufficient
light to see them.

Slip  the noose over the bird and pull, tightening the noose
and pulling the bird down at the same time.

STALKING WATERFOWL:

You  can  get close by getting in the water and camouflaging
yourself around the head with reeds and other vegetation.

Very  cautiously, approach an area where fowl nest or  birds
are regularly seen. But REMEMBER that birds especially large
ones  such  as  geese  and swans can be quite  ferocious  in
defence of themselves.

ANOTHER HUNTING TECHNIQUE:

In  some parts of the world is to use a large gourd worn  on
the head as cover. Holes are made on one side to breathe and
see  through  & with the gourd just sufficiently  above  the
water the hunter floats with the current among the birds.

To  prepare  the birds several other gourds are thrown  into
the  river  first. Having got among the wildfowl the  hunter
grabs  the unsuspecting birds from below and strangles  them
underwater.

PIT TRAP:

Find or dig a hole about 90cm (3 feet) deep in an area where
ground-feeding birds are common. Its width depends upon  the
kind of birds you are after.

Spread  grain  or other bait around the hole and  much  more
inside it. First taking the bait around the hole, birds will
enter it to get more. Rush them.

In  their  panic  they  are unable  to  spread  their  wings
sufficiently to take off inside the hole.

SEAGULLS:

Seagulls  can be caught by wrapping food around a stone  and
throwing  into  the air. The gulf swallows  the  bait  while
still on the wing. Gulping down the stone with it & the change in
weight causes the bird to crash.

Obviously this is a technique for use over land rather  than
at sea. Be ready to dispatch the bird as soon as it hits the
ground.

CENTURION BIRD SNARE:

Here is how the Roman used to do it. Going into the swamp he
would  leave his slingshot behind since there would  not  be
any room for free movement of the arm.

He  would go into the thickets of the reeds all tawny at the
bottom but lush and green at the tops not forgetting to hiss
a little to warn the snakes of his coming since they will be
warned thus will not strike at him unless taken by surprise.

The  Centurion will then easily also hear little rustles and
scurrying which told him of reptiles & mammals moving  aside
to let him by.

When  he  was close to the river he would start to  tie  the
tops of the reeds together so as to form an entanglement  in
the form of a semicircle among them.

Then he would cut a section of dry reed which he splits down
the middle several times.

This  done,  he  moved away from his bird  trap  toward  the
roadway  and  then stops into a place which  would  put  him
above  the arc of the netting that he had tied in the  reeds
and outside of it. Then he would shout and start to wave the
split cane vigorously.

This  produced a brisk clacking sound and there would  be  a
flurry and whirring of wings around him as frightened  birds
rose and flew down to safety of the river.

Some birds would then fly straight into the entanglement  of
the  reeds  which  he had made and by this method  he  would
secure easily 4 to 5 ducks or herons all of which had  their
necks broken flying into the reeds.

HUNTING HINTS:

1)   Walk as quietly as possible.
2)   Look around.
3)   Move slowly, stop frequently and listen.
4)   Hunt upwind or cross-wind wherever possible.

5)   Blend with terrain features as much as possible, do not
stand  against  the  skyline or  break  from  cover  without
thorough observation.

6)   Be prepared! Game frequently startles the hunter or catches
     him off guard.

TO AVOID NOISE: WALK SLOWLY, 1 STEP AT A TIME!

HUNTING TIPS #1:

See  the  start of this file "Watch for" as well  for  added
information.***

HUNTING TIPS #2: ESSENTIALS PRINCIPLES OF STALKING GAMES =:

KEEP  OFF  THE SKYLINE, KEEP THE WIND IN YOUR FAVOUR  FACING
YOU!

Search  the  terrain  in all directions  preferably  with  a
binocular  which  you should have with  you  especially  the
hunters or survivors.

Trial hunts reveal that "citizen" chances of stumbling  upon
game  are pretty remote & that they will have to go  out  to
spot it before they are spotted first.

HUNTING TIPS #3:

To  hunt games, you MUST observe them, they are creatures of
habits, they leave traces which you can follow.

Each  day  they go to the same places, as well as  to  their
water  points invariably. Some animals ALWAYS use  the  same
path.

Since  their  hearing  and sight is sharp,  REMEMBER  before
shooting not to move & with the sun in the back, the  animal
won't see you but you will see him better.

Also  CHECK THE WIND so that it blows toward you,  otherwise
they will smell a rat (You?)

In  MOUNTAIN, hunt from the height, animals are not used  to
be taken by surprise coming from above.

DISTANCE APPEAR LONGER WHEN:

Than  they are in reality when the terrain is accidented  or
rough.  If  there  are shadows or fog, also  at  sunset  the
object  observed is hard to see lacking contrast, or because
we are too low or hot.

DISTANCE APPEAR SHORTER WHEN:

Than  they are if: the terrain is flat, or weather  is  real
clear  (after rain or storm), or just before and just  after
the sunset or if you observe over a water area.

Or  if  there is a colour contrast between the object  under
observation  and the background or when we  observe  from  a
high point, or above a valley or if snow.

Now  the quick evaluation of distance is not the only  habit
to  acquire but also to learn to estimate in one quick  look
the  surfaces & quantities to evaluate weight and time.  see
measuring file more info***

SITTING ON A LOG ART OF HUNTING: 

This mysterious old art of hunting recommended so highly  by
old hunters is a hard one to perfect. Yet is one of the best
way to learn the woods and see the animals.

It consists of obviously, sitting on a log. But not just for
a  full  minute's rest, nor on just any old  log.  Once  you
learn  how to spot an animal runaway, choose a log a  couple
feet from it.

If you're just starting to learn the woods, pick a log close
to a stream, or an inlet on bog pond. In either case, take a
pair of binoculars if you have them.

Sit  yourself down-for a couple of hours. Don't smoke, don't
make any noise and move as little as possible.

Simply  look around. Traditionally 4 o'clock or  so  is  tea
time for many animals which would be unseen a thousand yards
away in the bush if you were strolling along, will sometimes
walk by only a couple of body lengths from you.

Their  sense  of smell and sight and sound are  as  keen  as
ever.  But somehow they refuse to believe that a human being
can  sit still like a bump on a log, and indeed most  of  us
can't do it any more.

Keep practising. As you do, look about you, watch the leaves
in action, the insects, the birds, the movement of the wind.
Smell the damp earth, the pine needles.

If  you  sit by the side of a young mushroom for the  better
part  of  a dewy night which is surely the ultimate test  in
log sitting endurance, you can actually see it growing.

SMALL GAME:

The mainstay of the survivor particularly if he has no rifle
will  likely  be  small  animals and birds.  They  are  well
distributed through the Canadian hinterland & can  be  taken
without firearms

BEST TIME FOR HUNTING:

Most of the large game animals are abroad at Dawn and toward
Evening.

DAWN HUNT IS BEST FOR SURVIVORS.

If they become lost they will have all day to find their way
back to camp. If you are fortunate to obtain a game you have
the rest of the day to dress it & begin the preservation  of
the meat.

REMEMBER to move your camp to the kill and not the  kill  to
the camp.

BIG GAME: (L.A-PHANT- DINOSAURS.)

Big  game  will provide food for a prolonged period  but  it
requires a suitable gun, skill and a large amount of  energy
and some means of preserving.

LONG RANGE HUNTING TIPS:

If you want to hunt near your home, you first MUST study you
ground toward end of summer and start of spring.

And  once you decided where you will lay your traps  prepare
the  ground so that the animals get use to the change before
the hunting season start.

Disturb  as  little as possible the area where you  want  to
place  your snare or traps, animals are suspicious, so leave
it  as natural as possible and MAKE SURE your traps are VERY
WELL ANCHORED.

LOOKOUT HUNTING:

The advantage is that is requires little energy but a lot of
patience,  and it is an excellent way to hunt  if  you  have
chosen well your area by studying it carefully!

It is good for jacking and if you stay immobile in the upper
area of prairies, game trails preferably against the wind in
the sector you have chosen to hunt.

HUNTING TRICK:

One  trick that some hunter use is to climb a tree and using
a  fork  branch they install a box to sit on  to  wait,  but
under  the  box  they have put an oil lamp  (Coleman  style)
which  gives  them heat through some holes  that  they  have
chisel or dug in the box.

HUNTING TIP:

REMEMBER ONCE MORE THAT FAT IS ESSENTIAL TO SURVIVAL.

It  MUST  not  be wasted but kept like gold.  To  eat  flesh
without any fat for ex. Rabbit will kill you just as not  to
eat anything, you need fat. How much do you need fat, eat it
till you don't want any more.

PRE-HUNTING TIPS:

Using   nylon   or  synthetics  clothing  which   are   very
comfortable  yet totaly useless for hunting because  of  the
noise they make. They are to the game what a orchestra is to
the auditor = too noisy.

PRE-HUNTING TIPS #2:

Or what of the fact that ones ventures in the wood without a
map  of the area or a compass and to know how to use  it  or
full  of  Gin  but little wisdom and knowledge  in  case  of
accidents.

Also  one  has to check on what is best to bring  along  and
what  to  wear since a lot of time there is cold  spell  and
rain along.

All excursion MUST be prepared in order to avoid troubles or
to  fix it if anything goes wrong then it is too late if not
ready.

ALWAYS take in consideration the weather factor, not of  the
day  but  of the coming days of your future trip. Think  you
are the next Columbus or some famous explorer thus get ready
Tarzan.

MAKE  SURE THE ANIMAL IS DEAD BEFORE HANDLING IT. You  could
be surprised by its appearance. Poke a stick in the eye will
tell  you  for sure if it is dead. If not; well do  kill  it
quickly.

BEST HUNTING TIMES:

Hunting  is usually Much More Efficient Early at Sunrise  or
at sunset when the animal go to drink or to eat.

CHARACTERISTICS OF SOME ANIMALS: HUNTING TIPS:

In order to help you hunting them with less difficulties:

1)   Caribou & Reindeer are usually real curious & one can attract
them to rifle range by agitating a cloth and by walking on all four
toward them.

2)   The same method will also work for Wolf.

3)    The  moose  usually stays in deep marsh, the  female
watches the  young and the male is  their season can attack or
charge you. OOPS's!

In  WINTER one can climb a tree and spot a moose just by the
steam that his body gives will tell of his presence.

4)    It  is not easy to approach mountain goat or #mouflon#
for they are nervous & suspicious. To surprise them you MUST
climb  on  the heights and come down without noise,  against
the wind while they eat with their head down.

5)    The  trails of #boeuf musque# are usually filled  with
dung.  When  they are worried they gather together.  If  you
approach them at this stage they can feign to attack you.

6)   Bears are harsh and unpredictable. A wounded bear is
extremely dangerous, you MUST not go after it.

The  Polar Bear has an exceptional eyesight and strong sense
of smell. It will pursue and attack man!

7)    When the rabbit is scared he goes in circle and  comes
back  to  its starting point. To stop it dead on its course,
you just have to whistle. Easy to catch with snare.

CAMPING AND HUNTING TIPS: 

NEVER  leave  your tent without shutting it tightly  for  in
your absence during the day the squirrels etc. can cause you
much troubles, if they find an opening in your tent.

Specially if you are far from town and your food is limited.
The  tent containing your provisions MUST be well closed and
tightly secured and left in a shadowy place, NEVER under the
sun.

PREPARING FOR THE HUNT:

A  hunter  who wants to succeed MUST be prepared.  First  by
training in shooting fast and accurately.

Whether  he  hunts with a bow or a gun he MUST  practice  as
much as possible and in all conditions. Even the hunter with
the  fastest  reflex, and steel nerves can  not  shoot  well
without proper training.

He  MUST  also be in the best possible shape for hunting  is
not  a relax job. To carry a 200 pounds deer takes more work
than  you  think, and many overweight hunters have  died  of
heart attack while tackling the job.

BETTER EYE SIGHT: #1

To  shoot  well with a gun or arrow one MUST have more  than
good  eyesight  but he MUST also be able  to  apreciate  the
distances.

Thus  you  MUST practice to hit the target at 50-100-200  or
300  feet  so  as to well educate your reflexes at  variable
distances.

And  in  the forest the perspectives are different. This  is
why a preliminary training will reap benefits.

So  train  yourself  well in estimating distances.  For  ex.
locate a tree or rock and evaluate the distance then go  and
measure it.

You  will find that your numerous errors will teach you  how
difficult it is. Only good training in evaluation will teach
Rambozo this fine art.

To  help  you in this appreciation of distances  carried  in
different conditions learn to memorise standard distances to
as to use them later.

Measure different distances and imagine what they would look
like carried in the forest or on a lake.

With  enough practice you will become good at it. It is also
good to REMEMBER that a pale object with a dark background.

For  ex. a deer in front of a pine hill will look even paler
thus closer than it is in reality, but the same deer on  the
snow will look darker thus farther than in reality.

Hunting  in a canoe is a very effective way to develop  your
vision.  Since every thing moves so fast you MUST  learn  to
sweep  the  horizon continually in order  to  maintain  good
vision.

BETTER EYE SIGHT #2:

If  you  keep your gaze steady in one place the object  seen
becomes  blurry,  so  keep your eyes roving  and  sweep  the
horizon like a radar.

If  the  eyes are kept too long on the same spot or  without
blinking  they get tired fast and loose their sharpness.  So
move your eyes to keep them sensitive.

The  circular  movement of sight MUST be  quick  &  precise.
Check  carefully all the terrain and then come back to  some
precise point, but AVOID STARRING TOO LONG.

Try  to recognise the objects as far away as possible. Sweep
in one direction then reverse the procedure.

Normally  your eyes will scan faster from left to right  and
be slower from right to left this can be use to better check
an area which seems important.

LEFT OR RIGHT WAYS:

Suppose  you are spotting the deer afar off, is  the  branch
nearby  behind or ahead of the deer? Move your head  slowly,
if the branch moves in opposite direction then it is forward
ahead,  whereas  the  far  away objects  move  in  the  same
direction that the moving of the head.

Early  in  the morning, with lesser light or at  sunset  the
object appear smaller.

PROTECT YOUR NIGHT VISION:

At  night protect your sight form any light which will  kill
your eyesight.

For  ex.  if  you light your cigarette at night  your  night
vision will be lost for at least 5 minutes up to 15 minutes.

You MUST give your eyes a time to adjust to night vision. To
discover  an  object darken by night look beside  the  place
where  your  think the object is. Look at  about  5  degrees
beside and it will appear much clearer.

NIGHT VISION PRECAUTION:

WHEN LOOKING AT AN OBJECT AT NIGHT IT'S BEST TO LOOK AT  ONE
SIDE OF IT RATHER THAN DIRECTLY AT IT.

It  is  difficult to distinguish anything in a dark  central
mass  but  the  edges show more clearly and  in  poor  light
objects  at  the  edges of your vision are often  seen  more
distinctly.

Once  the eyes get accustomed to the dark, more and more  is
seen as "night vision" is acquired.

IT  TAKES ABOUT 30-40 MINUTES FOR THE EYES TO GET ACCUSTOMED
TO THE DARK.

Once this is achieved the eyes MUST be protected from bright
light  or  the  night vision will be impaired  for  quite  a
while.

If there is an unavoidable reason for having to use a light,
COVER  ONE EYE so that the vision in that eye at least  will
be retained.

If for instance,you need to consult a map, a red filter over
a torch will help you retain your night vision.

REMEMBER   also  that  the  night  observation  needs   some
precautions like the fact of lighting a match or to activate
a  flashlight will knock out your eye power for at least  15
minutes.

At night it is also good to use your ears to rest a bit your
eyesight  by not only closing your eyes but also by  lightly
posing  your  hands  over  your eyes  without  applying  any
pressure.

HOW TO SEE NATURE BEST:

Sweep the horizon from left to right and then right to left.
This is the first principle of good vision.

SEE DON'T WALK:

It is of NO USE to walk for miles and miles to see something
while  hunting, YOU MUST WALK VERY LITTLE, LISTEN A LOT  AND
OBSERVE  VERY  CAREFULLY. THE MORE YOU  WALK  THE  LESS  YOU
OBSERVE.

BINOCULARS: 

This  very important item is discussed in Fishing file  both
for day and night use and handmade ones.

EXTREME IMPORTANCE OF BINOCULARS:

On  an  open hill side a little more than 1 mile away  is  a
bear  gorging himself on saskatoon, but although  visibility
is  as  good as one can expect where mountains rise in  high
wilderness,  the berry bushes will camouflaged the  bear  so
well  that  even knowing where he is you will still  not  be
able to make him out without the telescope.

The  point is that when binoculars & other such glasses  are
fully  CAPITALized  upon, they are  surpassed  only  by  the
firearm itself in importance in the matter of securing  game
vital for survival.

If  knocking  down  a  meat animal can mean  the  difference
between life and death and particularly if your own life  is
not  the  only  one so dependent you're going to  attempt  a
needlessly dramatic offhand shot.

The  same  principle holds true in spy glassing the  country
for  game.  You'll  find  yourself holding  the  glasses  as
steadily as possible.

Utilizing any available support, sitting if you can and even
sprawling prone with the lenses resting on a log if afforded
that opportunity.

An  area as one soon appreciates is best scrutinized section
by  section  by  overlapped section.  Any  object  that  may
conceivably  be some part of an animal is patiently  watched
for minutes for any sing of movement.

Even  if none is distinguished before shifting the field  of
vision you will probably fix that particular spot in mind so
as to study it later to see if any detail has changed.

You  will get the habit likely as not, of carefully scanning
game trails for as far as you can see them.

You  will give particular notice to the types of cover where
you  know an animal may lying & to the particular vegetation
on which your are aware one may be feeding.

Shores as everyone knows are especially well travel while in
the  water itself you too have perhaps more than one spotted
moose  dipping  heads to uproot lily pad or  have  spied  on
bears and even mountain goat swimming.

NIGHT USE OF BINOCULARS:

We  will  surprise  number of readers by  stating  that  the
effectiveness is much more considerable by moonlight or star
lite  even  really weak or dim than when the sun  is  really
high.

At   night  there  is  a  clearness  difference  much   more
appreciable between a detail observed with the naked eye  or
with  binoculars  than  when the same  observation  is  made
during the day.

Between the sunrise and sunset the binocular will permit  to
precise  details already perceived whereas in half  darkness
it  will  give the advantage to discover what the naked  eye
was incapable to suspect.

HANDMADE BINOCULAR  NIGHT & DAY:

Easy to make and cheap to boot. Try this experience at night
when  frost or the moon creates all kind of imaginary things
by  using  cardboard  binocular which are  a  kind  of  twin
tunnels  which  the  #tranche  posterior  matches  the  face
relief#.

This  way  the eyes will escape the lateral rays  and  their
sensitivity will be kept for the useful rays.

A  bit  like  someone deep in a tunnel shaft can  see  stars
during the day. So the eyes are thus guaranty to be free  to
a  large  extent of the usual illusions made through nightly
observations.   (Apparent  movement  of  immobile   objects,
imaginary  shapes, confusion between near  and  far  objects
etc.)

Beside  the fact that this man made instrument is  far  from
being perfect it will permit to distinguish a full range  of
things  which  the  naked eye was not able  to  analyze  nor
isolate.

During the day they will be of a greater advantage than just
using the hand over the eyes to protect the sight.

TIPS FOR HUNTING IN THE WARM CLIMATE:

If  you hunt in the bush you will find that going bare  foot
makes  you  less noisy and that shorts are better than  long
pants  but then again this depends of the weather conditions
and climate which you happen to be in.

If  you  have  the  choice then go hunting  with  as  little
clothes  as  possible  so  as to make  as  little  noise  as
possible. Cover your body with clay to ward off the bugs and
to camouflage yourself.

NIGHT WALKING NO NOISE PLEASE:

At  night  stay  as  much  as possible  in  the  #bas-fond#,
ditches,  as low a profile as you can so as to stay  in  the
shadow.  You  will  then see the enemy  or  prey  coming  up
enlighten by the sky above.

If  you  want to move without being seen specially at  night
REMEMBER to walk without noise.

And  to  do so a good hunter ALWAYS walks lightly by putting
his toes first to the ground and not the heel.

This specially applies where there are twigs and rocks,  dry
leaves. Practice walking by putting your toes to the  ground
rather  than  the  heel & do this in all occasion  until  it
becomes a habit.

Walk  as lightly as possible as a cat, you will not  get  as
tired  as those who walk heavily thinking to impress  anyone
by their tank walk.

HUNTING TIPS:

Keen observation of all signs of wildlife and a knowledge of
the  kind of animals you are hunting are as necessary to the
hunter as skilful tracking and accurate marksmanship.

They  make  it easier to be in the right place and  to  take
advantage of the terrain.

ALWAYS PROCEED AS QUIETLY AS POSSIBLE.

Move  slowly  and stop regularly. Carry your weight  on  the
rear  foot so that you can test the next step with the  toes
before transferring your weight.

Thus  you will avoid stumbles and help to reduce the  amount
of  noise you produce from undergrowth and snapping  sticks.
FAST or sudden movement will startle the game.

SNIFF  THE AIR & LISTEN. HUNT AGAINST THE WIND OR  AT  LEAST
ACROSS IT.

IDEAL HUNTING TIME:  

THE IDEAL TIME TO HUNT IS AT FIRTS LIGHT, when more game  is
likely to be about. Animals are also about in the evening.

But  the light will be getting rapidly worse so you need  to
be sure of the terrain and know your way back to camp.

In  territory  you  know well this will not  be  a  problem,
particularly if there is a clear sky & moon or starlight  to
see by.

If  hunting  in the evening go out at least an  hour  before
dusk so that your eyes will get used to the failing light  &
you will develop night vision though your prey will probably
be able to see better than you do.

WHERE TO HUNT?:

When  hunting during the day, try to hunt moving  uphill  in
the morning and return to camp in the afternoon.

Signs  of animals will be easier to read as you move  uphill
for those on the ground will be closer to eye-level.

Thermal currants build up with the heat of the day and carry
scents upwards- so by returning downhill the scent off  game
comes up to you before your smell reaches it.

After  a day out hunting and foraging the descent will  take
less  energy  than  an upward climbing & by  then  you  will
welcome the easier going.

If you are moving correctly, game often will not see you. If
an animal catches a glimpse of you, FREEZE.

You  may  be  the fist human it has seen. It  will  be  more
curious  than  frightened. Keep absolutely still  until  the
animal looks away or continues feeding.

AVOID  large animals, such as bears, unless really desperate
or  confident  of  a first shot kill- or you  could  end  up
becoming the hunted not the hunter.

Get  as close as you can without revealing your presence and
take  a  steady  position, aiming for the  area  giving  the
greatest margin for error.

An accurate head shot is very effective but risky unless you
are  very  close and the animal still. A point just  to  the
back of the front shoulder is a good target.

A   firm,  accurate  strike  here  will  drop  most  animals
instantly. A badly aimed shot may mean unnecessary agony for
the  animal  and  a  long follow up for the  hunter  even  a
possible loss.

ANIMAL SHOT = WAIT!!!

If  an  animal  drops  first shot,  WAIT  5  minutes  before
approaching. Just stand back and observe.

If  not dead but bleeding, the loss of blood will weaken  it
and, when you do approach, it will not be able to bolt.

If  an  animal  is  wounded and moves away Wait  15  minutes
before  following up. If you follow immediately  the  animal
will travel all day & you will loose it.

HUNTING TIP: MOOSE:

At  Fall when travelling in canoe looking to hunt a moose it
is best to stay about 20 feet from the shore lake it is much
more lucky to do it this way then being too close.

Also you increase your chances when all is calm specially at
night around 2 hours before sunset.

GUNSLING:

The  best one that just came out a few years ago is made  by
the  Rapid Roll Inc. extremely safe, quick and easy to  use;
not  only  to  carry  your gun but  to  shoot  with  without
endearing your manoeuvre.

Made  from 84 inches of nylon without seam and with a  4,000
lbs  stress,  good  even  under 70 degrees  below  zero  and
absorbing  only  5% of water when wet can be  used  to  many
other purposes.

It  has  taken  100  years  to come  out  with  the  perfect
gunsling,  so  give it a good look before rejecting  such  a
good deal. US Pat 3495770. (No paid advertising!).

ANIMAL BYPRODUCTS: 

All  animals provide skins. Their condition will  depend  on
how  carefully  they were removed, the way  the  animal  was
killed, the age of the animal and time of year.

Common  defects are due to parasites, diseases, malnutrition
and scars from fight injuries. Snakes, lizards, crocodiles &
other  reptiles  all provide excellent skins.  So  do  large
birds such as Ostriches.

Some  aquatic mammals, seals, and their relations  are  fur-
bearing, like land mammals and the whales and dolphins  have
strong hides. Shark also have a hide instead of scales  like
most  other  fishes. Birds can be skinned with the  feathers
attached and used to make warm clothing or bed covers.

Skin  is  a  source  of food and in circumstances  of  acute
shortage can be eaten, even after having been preserved  and
used  for clothing, but it is very tough and takes a lot  of
digesting.

There  are cases of people surviving by eating their  boots,
though  it  should  be emphasised that  in  all  such  cases
plentiful water was available.

Skins  & hides are composed of water and proteins and  decay
quickly if they are not specially treated to preserve them.

How  they are treated will depend upon whether you  want  to
retain  the hair or fur, but the initial stages will be  the
same in both.

To  make  moccasins, laces, shelters, thongs, water bags  or
canoes,  the hair is removed but for warm clothing,  bedding
or good insulating groundsheet it should be left on.

Properly  prepared  skins will be  supple,  yet  strong  and
resist  tearing, abrasions, deformation or stretching.  They
are  comfortable to wear, with good thermal insulation,  but
permeable to air and water vapour. More on this in  Skinning
file.

HUNTING SHAFT:

Since your ammunition will eventually disappear if you  have
any  for  that  matter, then consider  this  alternative  by
making yourself a hunting shaft.

Even a long root in the river can be used for that. Take one
root about 2.50 m. long and dry it slowly over the fire  and
turning it around so that it stays straight.

It  will take you even up to 2 days in that case of  a  root
but  then it is worth it. It will be very strong even though
a bit flexible.

Once  you  have found animal tracks going under a  tree  you
only  have  to  climb over into the branches  and  when  the
animal goes under you jump on it and pierce the animal  with
the shaft as you are (bunjy?) jumping.

GUN BARREL CLEANING EMERGENCY:

If  somehow snow or mud got into it, remove as much of it as
possible  then  using  a cartridge without  its  powder  and
bullet but still with the firing cap you then fire the  gun.
The  blast from the cap will clean the barrel of all foreign
objects even UFO?

IDEAL SURVIVAL WEAPON:

The  army  came with the conclusion that it was a 22  rifle,
their type included in their survival kit is the collapsible
type, meaning the barrel goes into the stock.

But  this  is for an overall survival, if you have means  to
choose  beside  bazooka  and stinger  etc,  then  your  best
survival  weapon  is  a flat hard shooting  rifle  which  is
rugged, accurate and durable.

A  shotgun is no fit substitute nor any handgun. Although it
is true that something could be saved by procuring a carbine
instead  of a rifle, the extra weight and length would  seem
to  be  entirely  justified  by the  increase  in  potential
accuracy

As  a  matter  of  fact  it would be hard  to  begrudge  the
additional  few  once  of a good telescopic  sight  if  only
because  of  the often vital minutes one adds  to  the  most
productive hunting periods of every day.

You  will probably want to include a light sling such  as  a
Whelen or Rapid Roll if only for purposes of carrying.

As  for  ammo for several evident reasons you will want  one
shot to do the job wheNEVER possible. You are therefore  apt
to  prefer  the  explosive effect of a high velocity  hollow
point cartridge.

DIFFERENT PROBLEMS DIFFERENT PLACES:

The  basic problem is different however in country  such  as
the  interior of Panama where there is abundant  small  game
but  little  or  no big game animals. In  such  a  region  a
functional weapon for living off the country is a rifle  for
a load like a .22 Hornet.

If  one  wants  to diversify this ammo so  as  to  be  in  a
position  to destroy a minimum of meat, he could also  carry
an  amount  of  reduced loads having similar  ballistics  to
those of the .22 long rifle cartridge.

SURVIVAL WEAPON FOR GROUP:

Suppose  2  or  3  of you each has an individual  choice  of
survival weapons.

Should one select a revolver, another a scatter gun and  the
third the flat shooting and hard bitting rifle.?  Some  such
diversification   at   first   thought   would   not    seem
unreasonable.

However  the same objections to handguns and shotguns  would
still  prevail. The probability of success would be  greater
if  all had a rifle apiece, enabling them to spread out  and
hunt separately.

These  rifles should all be identical so that the  parts  of
one or even 2 can be used to repair the third.

BOW AND ARROW:

Most  effective of improvised weapons, the bow and arrow  is
easy to make. It takes only a short time to become confident
in its use. (David?).

For  the bow a well seasoned wood is best but you will  have
to  make do without. If you expect to have to stay where you
are for many months you could put aside to season for future
use.

The  tension  in  unseasoned wood is  short  lived  so  make
several bows and change over to another weapon when the  one
you are using looses its spring. #Yew# = the ideal wood.

All the old English longbows were made of Yew. There are   5
kind  of Yew distributed across the Northern hemisphere  but
it  is  not very common & Hickory, Juniper, Oak, White  Elm,
Cedar,  Birch,  Ironwood, Willow and Hemlock  are  all  good
alternatives.

MAKING THE STAVE:  

For  your bow stave select a supple wand. It should be about
120cm (4 feet) long but match its size to the individual.

To determine the correct length for you. Hold one end of the
stave  at  the  hip with the right hand, reach out  sideways
with the left hand and mark the extent of your reach as  the
length  of the bow. This will give you a standard type  bow.
The longbow requires much more skill in use.

SHAPING THE BOW: 

Fashion  the  stave  so that it is 5cm  (2in)  wide  at  the
centre,  tapering to 1.5cm (5/8in) at the  ends.  Notch  the
ends  (A*)  to take the bowstring about 1.25cm (1/2in)  from
the ends.

Remove  the  bark  if  you choose. When  the  bow  has  been
whittled into shape rub it all over with oil or animal fat.

FITTING THE STRING:

A rawhide string is best, cut to a width of 3mm (1/8in.) but
any string, cord or thin rope will do.

The  stems of old nettles provide tough fibres and these can
be twisted together to make a satisfactory bowstring.

If  the  bow  has a lot of give a shorter string  is  likely
needed,  but  when strung the string should  only  be  under
slight tension.

The  main  tension  is added when you pull  back  to  shoot.
Secure the string to the bow with a round turn and two  half
hitches at each end.

If  the  wood  is unseasoned release one end of  the  string
wheNEVER the bow is not in use to relax the tension  or  you
may find the stave sets in shape.

A properly made bow will be more efficient and more accurate
than  just  bending  a pliable wand-but once  it  loses  its
spring don't waste time with it.  Make another.

MAKING ARROWS: 

Any  straight wood will do for arrows, but birch is  one  of
the best. Make arrows about 60cm (2 feet) long and about 6mm
(1/4in) wide.

Keep  them  straight. (A piece of string  tied  between  two
points will give you a straight edge to check them against.)
And as smooth as possible.

At  one  end  make a notch 6mm (1/4in) deep to fit  the  bow
string.  Check  the notch in the end of each arrow  is  wide
enough to fit over your bowstring.

FLIGHTING ARROWS:

To  increase  accuracy arrows should be  flighted.  Feathers
make the best flights but other material can be used: paper,
light cloth or even leaves trimmed to shape.

(A*)  split feathers, starting from the top, down centre  of
quill. B* Leave 20mm (3/4in) of quill at each end of feather
to  tie  arrow. C* tie 3 flights equally spaced  around  the
shaft.

ARROW HEADS:

At  the  business end of the arrow a sharp point is  needed.
The arrow itself can be sharpened and hardened in fire but a
firm  tip  is  better.  Tin is excellent  or  flint  can  be
fashioned into a really sharp arrowhead.

With  patience even bone can be made into a good tip.  Split
the  end  of  the shaft, insert the arrow head and  bind  it
tightly.  Sinews are good for binding- apply wet,  they  dry
hard securing the head firmly.

WEAPONS FROM FLINT: *

Arrow  and spear heads, axes and knives can all be  made  by
knapping  flint, which is a black stone with a dull metallic
gleam, often found in association with chalk.

Choose a flattish piece of approximately the right shape and
size.  With another hard stone flake off pieces until it  is
the shape you want.

Chip  away  at  the edges to produces a very  sharp  cutting
edge. see tools in camp craft.*

ARCHERY TECHNIQUE:

Fit  an arrow into the bowstring and raise the centre of the
bow  to  eye-level.  Hold  the bow  just  below  the  arrow,
extending the arm forwards.

Keep  the  bow  arm locked & draw the string  smoothly  back
across  the front of your body, with the arrow at eye-level,
& lined up with the target, sighting along the arrow.

Release the string-just let go, do not snatch it as  you  do
so. Now practise! For rapid fire carry a number of arrows in
your bow hand.

ARROW BURNS:

Many  archers  find  that the rubbing of the  arrow  flights
against the hand and the cheek can cause friction burns.

A  scarf  or a piece of cloth pulled tight to the face  will
protect  the  cheek without interfering with  the  shot  and
either  a  leather  mitten worn or a  leather  guard  fitted
between the fingers and the wrist to protect the hand.

SLING AND SHOT:

The  simple sling was the weapon with which David  slew  the
giant  Goliath  and can be armed with ordinary  pebbles.  It
consist of a simple pouch in the middle of a length of rope.

Leather  is  the best material for the pouch but  you  could
make  it  from any strong fabric and the rope can be leather
thong or twisted from natural fibres. Attach it as one  long
piece threaded through, or 2 tied or sewn on.

SLINGSHOT TECHNIQUE: 

Select smooth pebbles about 2cm (3/4in) across and as  round
as possible, jagged pebbles may do more damage but they will
not  follow such a smooth trajectory. Swing the sling  above
the head in a circle lined up on your target

Release  one end of the rope and the ammunition  should  fly
with great velocity & with practice, accurately on target.

You  will  probably need to experiment with sling length  to
achieve accuracy & distance. When using either the sling  or
the catapult against birds load several pebbles at once.

CATAPULT:

The schoolboy's weapon- but the Romans used giant mechanical
ones  as  siege  weaponry. You need a  strong  forked  twig,
preferably with some pliability - a hazel prong is excellent
- a piece of elastic material.

A  piece of inner-tube from a car or a bicycle tire is ideal
and  stronger  than  the elastic in your clothing,  although
that could be used.

Make a pouch for the centre of the elastic and thread or sew
it into position as for the sling, tie the ends to each side
or your twig and use a stone as a cruise missile.

SPEARS: 

A  staff is a good aid to walking and by sharpening one  end
can be turned into a useful thrusting or throwing weapon.

A straight staff about 1.80m (6 feet) is ideal for a jabbing
spear.  About 90cm (3 feet) makes a more manageable throwing
spear.

A  thrower can be made from a piece of wood about  half  the
length and it gives a greater accuracy and distance.

SPEAR THROWER: 

Spear sits in a groove which runs along most, but not all of
the  upper face of the thrower. The end stop adds thrust  to
the spear.

TO MAKE A THROWER?:

Choose a tree limb that is at least twice the width of  your
spear  and with a branch stump which can become the  forward
sloping handle.

Split down the centre using a knife as a wedge. Gouge out  a
smooth channel for the spear.

MAKE  SURE it is cleanly cut, leaving a solid portion  as  a
buffer.  Experiment to match the thrower length to  that  of
the spear and to suit your own balance.

Held  at  shoulder  level,  aim the  spear  at  the  target,
bringing the holder sharply forwards and then downwards.  As
you move downwards the butt of the groove adds to the thrust
behind the spear.

To make a spear more effective add a point of flint, knapped
to sharpness or a flattened cone of tin, set into the end or
securely bind on a knife. However if you only have one knife
do not risk it, it could too easily be lost or damage.

HANDLING THE KILL: 

Wounded  and  trapped  animals  can  be  dangerous.   Before
approaching closely check whether then animal is dead.

Use  a spear or tie your knife to a long stick and stab  the
largish  animal in its main muscle and neck. Loss  of  blood
will  weaken it, enabling you to move closer and club it  on
the head. (Boum!).

If you have a companion it is easier to carry a large animal
by  tying it firmly to a bough which can be carried on  your
shoulders  but  you should not take it all the  way  to  the
camp, where it would attract flies and scavenging animals.

Even  large  animals  can be dragged to  a  more  convenient
location if turned upon their backs. If the animal has horns
cut off its head or they will make this difficult.

Place  the pole along the belly and use a clove hitch around
each  pair  of legs. Lash the animal to the pole and  finish
with a clove hitch around the pole. If the animal has horns,
tie these up out of the way or cut them off.

It  is  preferable to butcher all game on the trap line.  It
will  attract predators and carrion eaters that in turn  may
become trapped.

Use  the  entrails to rebait traps. Only carry back to  camp
what you can manage without exertion. In cool climates cache
the rest for collection later.

HIDING THE KILL:

Suspend  a  carcase from a bough too high for scavengers  on
the ground and out of reach from the branch.

A  cache  in a the crook of a tree will keep meat away  from
ground predators but will be accessible to felines and other
climbing predators.

In  territories with vultures and other large carrion eaters
it  will  be almost impossible to protect it, so carry  what
you  can. What you leave behind is unlikely to keep in a hot
climate.

Blood is a valuable food, containing vital minerals. Carry a
vessel  for taking it back to camp. Keep it covered, cool  &
out of the way of flies.

DEER FAMILY:  (Dear Abby?)

Deer  and  Moose are found throughout Canada's  forest  zone
while Elk and Caribou are most common in Western Canada.

IN SUMMER:

Follow  ridges  overlooking open country but  avoid  showing
yourself against the skyline.

Look  for  saltlicks and #wallows#. Flies and ticks  torment
these  animals  during hot weather and they take  refuge  in
#wallows#.

This   frantic   splashing  can  be  heard  at  considerable
distance. Watch for game trails since most animal prefer  to
use these when travelling.

IN WINTER:

The  Deer,  Elk,  Moose,  usually "yard  up"  in  low  lying
protected  areas, such as Cedar Swamps which  they  love  to
eat, Willow clumps & other thickets.

WHEN STALKING GAME:

Hunt   upwind  or  crosswind,  avoid  making  noise  &  stop
frequently to scan the area.

If  an  animal starts up suddenly remain stationary as  they
often return to investigate what has caused the noise.

So  don't follow it immediately since it might not know your
presence, so by checking all sides you have a better  chance
to kill it, many animals act this way.

BEFORE SHOOTING MAKE SURE IT'S AN ANIMAL:    OOPS! 

Unless  the animal is really near, the head or neck are  too
small  a target since when you are ready to shoot the animal
may  decide  to move suddenly so as most hunters  do  it  is
preferable to aim at the hearth and lungs area.

This  method is faster and more sure and once hit the animal
can  not  go  far. One can also aim for the  belly  but  the
results  are not as good, the animal can still  run  many  a
mile without showing any blood trails before dying.

AFTER SHOOTING:

Should you wound an animal; Don't follow it immediately!  If
you  attempt  to  follow it, it may  run  for  miles  before
dropping,  but if you wait 5 minutes or even 10 it  may  lie
down after a short run & either bleed or stiffen up.

If  you wait too long then it may decide to try another  run
and go before you show up. Have a smoke. When game is taken,
bleed clean and cool as soon as possible.

It is a common error, to think that an animal deadly wounded
will drop and stay where it is.

Most  will clear away at least a hundred  feet or  so  after
and drop for a spell, thus you have to go after it but as we
said wait a little while before going to look around.

As  soon  as  you  can you MUST bleed and clean  the  animal
especially Deer. Since its own heat is enough to  spoil  the
meat.

MAKE SURE THAT THE ANIMAL IS DEAD, by poking a stick in  the
eye.

BARREN LAND CARIBOU:

Once  a  caribou herd is located little trouble is  done  in
shooting them particularly when migrating. Approach them low
and  upwind. When they are grazing in the valley they  watch
the horizon.

DEER HUNTING ADDED TIPS:

In  Summer it is not easy to discover the running area of  a
deer. But by walking SLOWLY & observing ATTENTIVELY you will
see the trails left on black earth, mud or soft soil.

As  soon as they are found you then MUST be attentive to the
young alder, willow, maple shoot etc. which are nearby.

When  you find the tip of these trees cut as if by  a  blade
then you are on. The whither the cut the more recent is  the
last meal, the more yellow the cut, the older is the meal.

You  then should easily find manure pile, the more shiny and
brown the fresher it is, the more grey and dull the older it
is. The deer as the moose give shit in pill forms.

So  once  you have found the traces of manure & freshly  cut
shoots  you  have to be very careful and you will  find  the
paths that the deer use.

HOW TO TRACK HIS PATH:

As   soon   as   you   have  found  one  path,   just   walk
perpendicularly to this one & you will find others near by.

The greenhorn will have the impression that those trails are
man  made  being so clean and well kept and about 15  inches
wide;  clean  to the ground and where no grass  or  moss  is
growing just as clean as sheep trail.

If  one  of those trails brings you to a river or stream  or
any  water points then you are in deer terrain having  found
all the indications of his normal habitat.

Study then very carefully this terrain in an area of about 1
square  mile,  a  deer has rarely a bigger area  except  for
mating time which starts after hunting time anyway in  later
fall.

Find  the most used path and trail and the best places where
you can catch and see best the deer.

Study  the winds and where best to hide so that the wind  is
in  your  favour,  sometimes  at  the  outset  of  a  forest
sometimes inside.

DEER HABITS:  (Not dear Abby)

Once  one knows where the deer is living you MUST learn  his
habits.  The  early bird gets the worm is  true  in  hunting
deer. At high moon there is little chance to get him.

In  high wind the animals are usually very nervous and  hide
most of the time just the same if it rains or snow heavily.

Even  if there is not specific time schedule to bag a  deer,
usually the best time is from daybreak to 8 or 9 AM. & about
1 hour before sunset.

WIND STUDY VERY IMPORTANT:

You MUST study the wind very carefully otherwise there is no
chance to hunt a deer that has smell your presence which  is
why;

It  is  VERY  VERY  IMPORTANT TO WALK AGAINST  THE  WIND  OR
PERPENDICULARLY TO IT IF YOU WANT TO HUNT SUCCESSFULLY!

Consequently it is good to know that hot air rises and  that
the  morning sun heating the mountain flanks pushes the  air
upward. The deer know this very well & so MUST you also.

WHERE & WHEN TO HUNT:

So before Noon you will hunt from up the mountain going down
and  in  the Evening the air flows downward unless a  strong
wind  prevails  thus you will hunt from  down  the  mountain
going upward.

WARNING WIND CHANGES OFTEN:

REMEMBER  THAT IN THE MOUNTAINS THE WIND CHANGES  DIRECTIONS
MANY TIMES IN THE DAY.

The  deer  as  most animal has the hear and smell  extremely
well  developed but his sight is not as good,  it  does  not
mean  it  is  blind as a bat for all that, but colours  mean
very  little to him. Yet the least movement will  catch  his
attention.

You  MUST  then stay immobile and MAKE SURE that  you  leave
behind  your  back a big tree or rock, or shrub whatever  is
big  enough  to  hide you completely so  as  to  render  any
movement from you harder to detect. MAKE SURE you don't have
anything shiny or too pale a face.

The  deer  is  not  afraid of noise, it knows  instinctively
which  one is dangerous for him. It has been often seen  not
even  raising his head to the noise of plane breaking  sound
barrier  or close to a road full of noisy car going  by  and
not even seem to notice.

Yet  the  rushing  feet or hunter will drive him away  in  a
hurry. Even the sound of a gun can leave him indifferent.

His  smelling sense is maybe the strongest and to smell  man
is  for  him a sign to move out quickly. It is to the hunter
the point that appears to be the one which you MUST MOST  BE
CAREFUL.

So  MAKE  SURE you don't use shaving lotion or  perfume  and
that  your hunting clothes will be hung outside for  several
days, as well if possible as to rub Cedar leaves on you  and
on your clothes.

The deer just adores to eat in fresh wood cuttings where  he
can  stuff himself of young spruce shoot, many a wood cutter
has  thus  found  him  close by & taken  advantage  of  this
craving. In summer he craves for salt thus you can use  this
to get him.

If  he finds a salt point he will organise his life style in
consequences thus making it easier for you to bag him later.

But  in the fall he losses this salt craving completely. His
winter quarters are not the same as the summer ones.

He  also likes apple, clover, lettuce, strawberries  and  is
particularly  sensitive to #thuya# * as soon  as  the  first
snow hits the ground.

He  also  loves cedar & will stick closer to them especially
if  there  are but a few of them around. This  is  why  many
hunters will rub #thuya# oil on them during hunting season.

The  deer is very curious by nature especially the  doe  and
the  young deer, this is why they have the tendency to  stop
after his first run of 7 to 800  feet after having something
that looks like a human.

They  want to be sure thus you can take advantage  of  this.
The  female nearly ALWAYS comes first before the  male,  you
will  see  the female and then a few minutes later the  buck
will  come along. The buck function is to guard the rear  to
protect the doe.

WHAT AND WHERE TO SHOOT: 

Weight  for weight shoot for the big game of course and  you
aim  from the steadiest position for the vital region  which
affords the most margin for error, usually the chest.

DEER & WHERE TO SHOOT ANATOMY:

A deer rarely places himself to be shot as one would like it
to be yet one has to hit a vital point to kill it.

The  only parts that will bring a quick death are the brain,
hearth, lungs and #colonne vertebral#.

Elsewhere a deer could be mortally wounded yet go to  die  a
mile  farther especially if you make the mistake to  go  run
after as soon as you hit it.

This is why you MUST LEAVE IT BE for a while about 5 minutes
so it can bleed sufficiently for you to finish it off.

If you find traces of dirty blood stains of bluish colour it
means  you  have it hit at the intestines and the  deer  can
survive for many hours still.

So  to run after it right away would be extreme carelessness
in  that  particular case go after the deer only later.  (10
min.)  This may sound hard to do with the hunting fever  but
it is the only good thing to do.

Do  not be caught on appearance alone, for a deer hit at the
lungs  will  run just as fast as the deer near by  and  will
give you the impression of being unwounded.

Also often a deer which you have missed will not move at all
thus  giving you the chance for a second shot even  a  third
one, however once hit, it will not give you a second chance.

If a deer moves after the shot but does not stop immediately
after  the bang then it is most likely a hit. The only  time
it  will  drop  on  sight is if it is hit at  the  brain  or
#colonne vertebralle#.

Lets  suppose that the deer is on profile but at lower range
for ex. at a couple hundred  feet at the foot of a hill.

You MUST then aim at several vertebral higher to correct the
angle  otherwise you will it the deer at the  lungs  at  the
lower belly point of entry.

If  the  deer  is much higher than you, then  you  MUST  hit
lower.  Avoid to hit directly at the head, you may tear  off
3/4  of the head but without any guaranty to drop the  deer,
unless you hit it just above the eyes which is a very  small
target indeed.

#CHASSE FINE#:

How to beat the deer on its own terrain or the hardest hunt.
To succeed one needs: INFINITE PRECAUTIONS.

TO  WATCH THE WIND SO AS TO ALWAYS KEEP THE WIND BETWEEN YOU
& THE DEER.    (SMELL A RAT?)

To  walk  as an animal without any noise and with a slowness
difficult to imagine. One want to believe that the  more  he
walks  the better his chance to see a deer, he will but  not
close enough for a good shot.

A  deer unless in heat walks in a small area, relying on his
sense of smell, and hearing and eyesight to avoid danger.

He  walks  very slowly, listening a lot, stops at any  noise
even  5  minutes  without moving a hair  then  starts  again
looking all around!

All  these  precautions makes it that he covers hardly  more
than 1/2 mile per hour.

ANY HUNTER WHO WANTS TO DO IT FASTER MAKES A BIG MISTAKE.

There are times when this type of hunting can not be done. A
clear  weather, a frozen ground or a noisy #crissante#  snow
compounded  with a good wind will tell your presence  up  to
one mile all around and no deer will let you come near by.

The  ideal conditions are when there is a #temps mort,  also
un  sol sourd# or covered with a good soft snow sheet.  Good
hunting Nemrod.

As soon as you see a deer, don't move at all, otherwise it's
gone.  Wait  till it relaxes then approach it slowly,  check
where  you walk so as not to step of dead branches etc.  and
check the wind.

#CHASSE A L'AFFUT# =BEST!:

IN  A  WAY THE EASIEST WAY TO HUNT SINCE YOU DON'T  HAVE  TO
TRACK THE GAME.

But it requires you to know very well the habits of the deer
and  its  habitat, needing also a patience of a monk  and  a
very very strong resistance to cold and adverse weather.

Requiring at time even a week of waiting before you can  bag
the game. Regardless of those inconveniences:

          IT IS THE MOST PRODUCTIVE WAY TO KILL GAME.

Since  you will do fewer errors while waiting for your  game
to  show  up except if you move constantly, then zero  games
for Rambo on the go.

Especially if you have chosen an elevate spot to  wait  your
game, the deer has very little chance since it can not  see,
hear or smell you. A deer rarely looks up to see if there is
any danger around.

This  kind of hunting is good not only for deer but  bobcat,
fox,  moose, wolf. You can hide behind a rock, a bush  or  a
shrub etc.

You  can sit or stand in your cache or even lay down but the
choice  of  your  cache requires an in depth  study  of  the
surrounding land, as well as the incoming & outgoing of  the
animals hunted.

SPECIALLY THE EXACT OBSERVATION OF THE WIND DIRECTION  WHICH
YOU MUST EITHER FACE OR TO BE ON THE SIDE OF IT.

It  sometimes helps if you have 2 different cache so that if
the  wind is in the wrong direction for one cache you revert
to the other one.

Still  your  best bet is the one cache that is elevated  and
well prepared ahead at strategic points near the paths where
the animals go for good or water or the one that he goes  to
rest for the day.

Deer  have general routes like our highways but also a route
which  he  uses  for emergency procedures. It  will  usually
travel  so  as to have the wind in its face as  it  goes  to
rest, feed or water.

The  best places for fodder are the clearings, foot of hills
or mountains, wood roads, along swamps and in cultivated and
shallow land.

Even for greenhorns the feeding grounds are easy to spot  by
numerous trails, crushed grass, leaves bitten off or  chewed
off young shoots freshly cut, shit pile and other signs.

Yet this kind of hunting requires as said an angel patience,
steel nerves, complete and noiseless immobility.

So  don't toss, turn, sniffle, cough or smoke! Play dead. If
you  scare the little animals around you will also warn  the
big ones too.

If  the  weather  is  calm and with no wind,  this  type  of
hunting is best not to wait too long since the area will  be
filled with your smell, thus warn the animal.

If  the  time is dry then it is best to stick around in  the
cache since all branches crack easily.

REMEMBER  that in the mountains the wind changes  directions
many  times in the day, throwing dust in the air, or wetting
your finger will tell you its direction.

CACHE LAMP DICK TRICK:

This  is why the lamp trick is useful to help you fight  the
chill. You make a wooden box under which you put an oil lamp
lighted which will give you warmth.

MAKE  SURE  that the box is high enough so as not  to  catch
fire  to the wood & not burn your ass while sitting. Also  a
piece of felt is useful. Sorry no walkman!

CANOE HUNTING:

Rarely  practice  by  hunters yet very  successful  if  done
properly.

The  deer  is  not afraid of canoe, what the deer  hates  is
sudden movement which he associates to animal hunting him or
animals in distress, so to him sudden moves = danger.

To  a deer people in canoe are like floating logs. Since the
deer  loves water then a canoe trip of about 15 to 20  miles
on  a river or around a lake is nearly ALWAYS a sure way  to
see and kill a deer.

However  the  shooting in a canoe is extremely difficult  so
you  MUST shoot fast while the other man tries to immobilise
the canoe as best as possible, yet it requires 2 persons  to
do such a hunting.

The  best all around canoe for normal river is 22  feet long
&  for the smaller rivers or stream the 16  feet & about  70
lbs. known as the canvas canoe.

REMEMBER to bring canoe gum so that if you make a hole on  a
sharp stone it can be fix fast. Dress well for the water  is
usually extremely cold at the best time of the year.

BEAR = BACON = BEST BAITS: OJIBWA! 4 B"S:

Since  fat  is  the utmost ESSENTIAL in survival  and  bears
bearing lots of fat, then bait him with any sweet meat,  now
the best today is BACON!

YUP!  Just  FRY!  IT OR TRY IT! The good old ordinary  bacon
smell gets them coming and going all the time Nuts, in fact!
Just FRY any bacon or sweet smelling like bacon meat.

Bears  will come running, from miles around, like the rabbit
going and going and going, to You Rambo-Zoro!

This tip comes from Alfred Little John, an old Ojibwa Indian
friend of mine and from all his ancestors.

BEAR WARNING:

Most  are  not dangerous unless wounded or excited, REMEMBER
if  you  see  a cub by himself that mother is close  by  and
NEVER get yourself between the cub and her you are dead meat
buddy boy. MAKE SURE you are well armed this is no kid game.

The advantage beside good meat & pelt is the good amount  of
FAT which is ESSENTIAL survival.

BEAR COOKING TIP:

THE  SECRET TO BEST TASTING ANY FAT OILY MEAT IS TO BOIL  IT
FIRST THEN FRY IT.

Bear  is a delicious meat but as for the pork it can contain
and  transmit to man a disease called #trichine# which is  a
worm  invisible to the naked eye so as a precaution you MUST
cook well the bear meat.

ANIMAL DANGERS:

Few animals are likely to attack the survivor unless in self-
defence, most will be much more concerned to get out of  the
way.

There is little chance of encountering large animals such as
elephants, rhinos, dinosaurs hippopotamus or the larger  big
cars outside wildlife reserves.

Nevertheless avoid making camp on a trail, or  close  to  an
animal  watering place, where you could find you are in  the
path  of  a  herd of elephants or confronted  by  a  curious
cougar.

DON'T PROVOKE AN ENCOUNTER:

Bears  frequently scavenge from homesteads in  the  northern
forests turning over garbage cans and are just as likely  to
come round your camp for easy picnicking.

Use  noise to drive them off. Don't try to catch them. Don't
get  to  close to them. A bear can easily kill a man  and  a
wounded bear is particularly dangerous.

ALL  INJURED  OR CORNERED ANIMAL ARE LIKELY TO BE  EXTREMELY
DANGEROUS.

Most  animals will try to escape. If you prevent  them  from
doing so, you are forcing them to fight.

Crocodiles  and  alligators should be  given  a  wide  berth
unless very small and then beware that there is not a larger
crocodile behind you! (Sneaky bastards!)

Any  of  the  large-horned animals is likely to be  able  to
wound  you  with its horns before you can reach  it  with  a
weapon.

Stags are particularly belligerent in the rutting season. It
is  not just hoofed animals that can deliver a powerful blow
with their feet,  ostriches can kill you with a kick.

Wolves  are much more often heard than seen. Tales of  large
marauding packs are probably wild exaggerations.

A  wolf may get curious and look at you from a distance  but
you  can take with a pinch of salt the idea of hunters being
chased by pack of ferocious wolves.

If  you  are  badly  injured and unable to defend  yourself,
wolves might finish you off. Hyenas also hunt in packs.

Although basically cowardly, they are very powerful  and  as
scavengers  are attracted to camp sites. They will  probably
turn  tail  and run but drive them off rather  than  try  to
tackle them.

The  larger  apes can easily kill a man but they are  rarely
aggressive  animals  and will usually  give  you  plenty  of
Warnings to back off.

Small  monkeys  are  much more often  encountered  and  more
immediately dangerous because they have sharp teeth.

Mature  chimpanzees in particular can be very bad  tempered.
Thoroughly cleanse any animal bite. All could cause  tetanus
and some mammals including vampire bats can carry rabies.

Snake will not be a threat unless you accidentally come into
contact with them. You just have to get used to them and  to
check  clothing,  bedding & equipment  for  any  reptile  or
insect  visitors. Occasionally a snake or  a  centipede  may
slide into bed with you attracted by your warmth.

Cases  have been known of people waking to find an unwelcome
visitor nestling in an armpit or even more intimate places.

Try to REMEMBER that they are not attacking. Move gently and
calmly to free yourself from them.

SEA ANIMAL HUNTING TIPS:

1)    During winter and during spring the water *?? together
such  as  seals, walrus and polar bear will stay on floating
ice or iceberg. Good source of food and fuel.

2)    To catch seals proceed with caution and prudence. Stay
     against wind and not sharp movements.

If  possible wear white clothing. Move forward only when the
head of the animal tells you it is asleep.

If  it  moves stand up quickly and shout, the animals  being
surprised will stay put then it time to shoot it down.

The  liver of shark & seal is rich in Vitamin A so  for  you
not to get sick only eat a little of it.

3)    Walruses  stay on floating ices and you MUST  approach
them  usually  with  a  boat. THEY ARE  THE  MOST  DANGEROUS
ANIMALS IN THE ARCTIC, better stay away it's safer.

4)    Polar bears live nearly all along the Arctic shore. It
rarely goes to land. Avoid it as much as possible.

ITS  FLESH  IS  FULL PARASITE; SO NEVER EAT IT  UNLESS  WELL
COOKED. 

SEAL:  (It with a kiss!)
COLD HUNT* jm all **

The  common seal is found along most sea coast of the  polar
region. The survivor can use it as food and as fuel for  its
oil.

If  the seal is killed between the month of August and  June
its body floats so you can bring it back to dry land.

After  June the body will sink because it has less  fat.  At
sea  the  seal  is very curious and if you  hit  or  scratch
something  it  will  come  nosing around  to  see  what  the
phoquing story is all about.

During the Winter the seal lives under the ice but comes  to
breath  through  ice hole which are hard for  greenhorns  to
find.

But  in the spring the seal can be hunted easily since  they
love to take sun bath lifting its head every minute or so to
check the area.

This  is  when  you have to stay immobile, if you  have  any
white  sheet use it as camouflage to crawl till close enough
to shoot.

HIDE SCENT:

To hide your scent well, just stand in front of a smoky fire
for 10 to 15  minutes on both side till the smoke gets
itself into your clothes. Since smoke kills scent then
animals will come right up to you without problems.

HAND WARMER SECOND USE:

You can use your hand warmer charcoal to start a fire too.

