Index to contents


A few thoughts from tenzicut about food storage
A Natural Diet for Laying Hens
A thru Z of seed starting
About Beans
After the Chicks Hatch
AgTanks
Approximate Yields for Canning and Freezing
Average Garden Yields
Bamboo Rhizomes
Basic Dying from 1861
Basic Rules for Home Storage
Basil
Beans
Beet Sugar Making
Benefits of Foxglove
Braided Rugs - Pic of the Day - Challenge Project -
Bug Out Bags so if you have to leave in emergency situations
Butchering a Cow on the Farm
Butchering a deer and two recipes
Candles part 2 - I dare you project
Candles- Part I - I dare you project Making
Candling Eggs
Canning Salt
Cast Iron cooking -Challenge
Cats - chipmunks and other critters
Cheesemaking - I Dare Ya- Phase I the 1st dare
Cilantro
Clay Based Soil
Cold Weather- pet peeves- cats and hypothermic goats
Comfrey Cream
Companion Planting and Pesticide Recipes
Companions in the garden
COMPOST KEEPS PILING UP
Composters
Composting
Composting ideas - rules
Dandelion Uses
Dandelions - A Must Read
Deer
Diatomaceous Earth - what is it
Dill
Dream Homestead
Dyes- tenzicuts notes
Earthworms and How To Grow Them
Egg and Egg Product Safety
EGG Trivia
Emergency Heating, Cooking & Lighting
Feed Yourself 1st
Fertilizer - Make your own
For These Insects Go To This Treatment
Foraging Poultry Feed
Fresh Food Storage
Fruit and nut tree companioning
Fruit Rootstock Characteristics
Garden Companions part 1
Garden Companions part 2
Grafting Info
Grow Plants From Cuttings
Grow your own plant nutrients
Growing Taters in Tires
Home Made Seed Tapes
Homeland Security Color Coded System
Homemade Organic Liquid Fertilizer
Homemade Paint
Homemade Soap  #1
Homemade Soap  #2
Homemade Soap  #3
How long will this last
How many acres
How much do you need
How to Make Potting Soil
How To Make Vinegar
How to Sex Day Old Chicks
Humus Tea Brewing
Hydroponics - Challenge Project
Incubating
Intensive Gardening
Laundry Soap
Leanto hay-bale greenhouse Qs
Lettuce
list.txt
Long Term Storage of Eggs from M-E-N
Make 5 Gallon Willow Water
Make Candle Wicks
Make Maple Syrup
Make Molasses Fertilizer
Make Perfumes
Making Paper - Challenge Project
Making Vermicompost
Micropropagation in Your Kitchen
Mini-Greenhouses
Miracle Gro -why NOT to use it
Misc Garden Info
Moms Homemade Whitewash
More on Storgae of Fruits and Veg
My Wild Bird Story
New leanto greenhouse under construction
Newspaper Seed Tapes
NPK
Old and natural Ways to Store Foods
On Less than 1 acre
On Using Rain Barrels
One Bushel equals how many pounds
OP Pea Varieties
Organic Gardening Techniques
Peas
Plants toxic to birds
Plants toxic to cats
Plants toxic to Dogs
Pollination and Cross Pollination
Poultry Glossery
Predatory Nematodes - what are they
Preserving Eggs
Preserving Eggs ll
Preserving Eggs lll
Quart Jars
Rabbits for Meat
Rain Barrels
Reference Material
Root Cellar and Preparing Harvest For
Rooting Blackberries
Saving Garden Seed
Saving Seed info article
Seed classifications explained
Seed Tape Tip
Shelf Life
Simple Gardening
Slug Solutions
Slugs - Killer Ideas
Soapmaking
Soapmaking - I dare you Number two -
Sq Ft Seed Tape Making
Starting Seedlings
Storage Requirements for Fruits and Veg
Storing Seed Long Term
Temperature requirements
Temperatures
The ABCs of Starting Seeds
The First Time Homesteader
The Health Benefits of Dandelions
Tire Planting
Tire Sandles
Tomatoes
Traditional Soap Making
Vegtable Container and Varieties
Vinegar Uses
Weather Resistant Homemade Paint
What is Damping Off
What is Willow Water
what is willow water Jon
What to buy on a weekly basis
What To Plant
Wild Rose Vinegar
Worm Composter
Worm Types
Yogurt - I Dare You-Part IV -


--------------------------

Even if you only buy 2# of nuts, that is 2# of nuts you have on sale 
in your home. It is something stocked in your pantry. Keep records 
of what you buy, how much and when you run out of it. Dont buy it if 
you dont like it. Buy what you eat and eat what you store and store 
what you eat.. or something to that effect :o)

The 21# of nuts can also be IN SHELL, ...that will add weight as 
well remember. I never kept track before as I had free walnuts and 
free filberts to gather and gather I did. I probably had 10 onion 
sacks of each variety.

If you have that extra tube of toothpaste you bought on sale, or 
that extra 12 rolls of TP, that is something you have, that you 
bought on sale and you dont have to make a special run to the store 
and waste time, fuel and energy and cuts down on pollution as well 
as saving you money by not getting those 'few extra things' each 
time you go to the store.

During bad weather, during political upset, such as when the docks 
were shut down a few weeks back...when a family member who used to 
bring home a paycheck is suddenly not due to being laid off. The 
pantry is just as good as money in the bank

tenzicut 

posted 12/28/02A Natural Diet for Laying Hens

Ingredient lbs/100 lb. of mix
Yellow corn meal 60.00
Wheat middlings 15.00
Soybean meal (dehulled) 8.00
Maine herring meal (65%) 3.75
Meat & bone meal (47%) 1.00
Skim milk, dried 3.00
Alfalfa leaf meal (20%) 2.50
Iodized salt 0.40
Limestone, grd. (38% Ca) 6.35

from:
THE POULTRYMAN'S HANDBOOK:
A Convenient Reference Book For All Persons Interested in the
Production of Eggs and Poultry for Market and the Breeding of
Standard-Bred Poultry for Exhibition

by:
International Correspondence Schools, Scranton, PA
INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK COMPANY
1912

RATIONS FOR SIXTEEN HENS FOR 30 DA.
---The accompanying table contains twelve desirable rations for
feeding to hens. The quantities given in each division are sufficient
for feeding 16 hens for 30 da., and provide about 4 oz/ of food daily
for each hen. The whole grain in all these rations is fed by hand;
the meal and meat in each is mixed together and fed either as a wet
or a dry mash. Rations (i) and (j) are double, or two-part, rations.
One-half of the daily ration is fed from each; the two answer for 60
da. Rations (a), (b), (c), and (d) are best suited to a promiscuous
lot of fowls ranging in age from 6 mo. to several years. Rations (e),
(f), (g), and (h), being largely composed of concentrated foods, are
best suited for laying hens. Rations (i) and (j) are for laying hens
that have free range and are able t0o pick up insects enough to
supply their demand for animal food. Rations (i) and (k) are fed in
hoppers as dry mash. The molasses feed used should be of good
quality. Ration (l) consists of meals, wheat and milk; the meals
should be moistened with the milk. In the use of all rations where
meals only are mentioned, a daily ration for each hen should consist
of 2 pz. or dry meal, fed wet or dry, and an equal quantity of whole
grain.

[None of these rations furnish sufficient mineral matter for egg
formation and for the other demands of nature. Grit, limestone,
oyster shell, or some similar material must be supplied in addition,
especially if chickens are confined in any way.]

Note: GRIT and OYSTER SHELL or SEA SHELLS are two entirely different
things. Sea shells and other calcium-containing substances just
dissolve in the chicken's. They cannot be a substitute for grit.
[Grit is hard rock.] It is what grain-eating fowl need in place
of "teeth" and it must be available in the right sizes. Substituting
sea shells for "grit" is like giving someone false teeth made of
chalk. I think the old timers had so many free range hens (notice the
early use of the term "free range") that the hens got enough grit
when they were out and about, so it wasn't a concern.

30-DAY RATIONS FOR SIXTEEN HENS

Food Pounds

(a)
Corn 50
Oats or barley 24
Wheat bran 10
Middlings 5
Corn meal 25
Meat scrap 8
Cut clover 10

(b)
Corn 50
Oats or barley 24
Wheat bran 10
Flour middlings 4
Corn meal 28
Animal meal 7
Cut clover 10

(c)
Corn 50
Wheat 25
Corn meal 28
Flour middlings 2
Hominy chop 10
Meat scrap 7
Cut clover 10

(d)
Corn 50
Wheat 25
Corn meal 25
Wheat bran 10
Middlings 5
Alfalfa meal 4
Meat scrap 7

(e)
Alfalfa hay or meal 18
Wheat bran 10
Middlings 30
Coconut-oil-cake meal 10
Meat meal 6
Wheat 60

(f)
Alfalfa 18
Wheat bran 14
Middlings 17
Linseed-oil-cake meal 6
Blood meal 4
Barley or oats 25
Wheat 50

(g)
Corn meal 24
Wheat bran 18
Alfalfa meal 10
Blood meal 3
Meat meal 6
Oats or barley 30
Wheat 40

(h)
Wheat shorts 18
Corn meal 25
Blood meal 5
Alfalfa meal 5
Cottage cheese 12
Wheat 60

(i)
Wheat bran 40
Middlings 20
Corn meal 20
Alfalfa meal 40

(j)
Wheat 60
Cracked corn 30
Oats 15
Barley 15

(k)
Corn meal 10
Molasses feed 20
Middlings 40
Wheat bran 30
Meat scrap 10
Clover hay 10

(l)
Middlings 30
Wheat bran 24
Meat meal 6
Skim-milk 90
Wheat 60

FEEDING FARM FLOCKS

Farm flocks, to be profitable, must have a ration suitable for the
production of both eggs and good table meat. No error in feeding farm
flocks is more common or more disastrous than that of giving too much
fat-forming food. [Note: this is confirmed by modern breeders.] An
all-green ration renders the hens excessively fat, sometimes induces
apoplexy, and causes the production of but few eggs. A grain ration
for farm flocks may be composed of grains in the following
proportions, by weight:

Food Parts

Cracked corn 20
Wheat 40
Oats 15

Cracked corn is preferable because it is small, and, like wheat and
oats, when cast into litter must be sought for by the fowls. During
the winter all grain should be thrown into dry chaff or litter of
some kind in order to keep the hens busy hunting for it.

During the winter months the hens on the farm should have a noonday
feed of warm mash, the mixture being composed, by weight, as follows:

Food Parts

Corn meal 40
Meat 30
Short-cut alfalfa
or clover hay 30
Oyster shell 2
Grit 1
Charcoal 1

The meat and hay should be cut into small pieces and voiled to a
pulp, and before cooling the mass should be mixed with enough meal to
make a dry, crumbly mass. This should be fed cool in troughs."
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/links/ A thru Z of 
Seed Starting

It's almost time to pick up those plump bags of potting soil at your
local retailer. If you've never started seeds inside before, this
planting primer is for you!

A is for Annual. As bedding plants they are the best. Some of the
easiest to grow include Marigolds, Cosmos, Nasturtiums and Sweet Peas.

B is for Biennial. These produce leaves the first year and bloom the
second year. The flowers go to seed and the plant usually dies.
Sometimes new plants will start from the seed around the base of the
original plant the following year. Biennials include English Daisy,
Forget-Me-Nots, Foxglove and Silver Dollar.

C is for Circulation. Most important to avoid the problem associated
with the next letter! Set a small fan by your seedlings and direct a
light breeze on to them for a few hours each day.

D is for Damping Off . This is the ogre of the seed sowing world.
Lower chances of this fungus causing your seedlings to keel over by
letting the soil dry out slightly in between watering. Don't sow
plants too close together. Also, set up that fan!

E is for Enthusiasm. Maintain your interest and dedication to your
young seedlings. They are dependant on you during this critical stage
and daily inspection is important. Your attention will reward you with
daily changes.

F is for Feeding. Seedlings don't need food at the two leaf stage but
when the third leaf appears, they'll need fertilization. Dilute a
water soluble fertilizer to 1/4 the suggested dosage and fertilize
once a week.

G is for Greenhouse. The goal of almost every gardener. Rolls of
plastic over hoops of re-bar will work as a temporary set up and
someday, maybe you'll have a glass one with a potting bench and heat!

H is for Herbs. Try some of the simple ones like chives and dill. And
don't be afraid to USE them this summer in your cooking.

I is for Identify. Don't rely on your memory to sort out those
seedlings popping out of the soil. Label all varieties clearly so
you'll know the proper location for them afterwards.

J is for Journal. It's a good idea to write down when you planted your
seeds and to keep track of their progress so you'll know which ones to
try again next year.

K is for knowledge. No one can be expected to know everything there is
to know about plants. Research the germination requirements for the
varieties you are growing. There are different conditions for
different types.

L is for Light. Try your hand at growing beneath lights for even
better results. Enhanced spectrum fluorescent tubes are recommended
for placing as close to plants as possible. 400 to 1000 watt high
intensity lights should be 24" or more above young plants. Lights
should be hooked up to a timer - 18 hours on, 6 hours off.

M is for Moving Day. Take your time acclimatizing young seedlings to
outside once the danger of frost is over. Just put them out for a few
hours at a time in a sheltered area at first, gradually increasing
this period over several days.

N is for nitrogen. One of the most important nutrients for green
growth.

O is for Onions. If you are growing them from seed, start them now.

P is for peat moss. This forms up to 95% of soil less mixes.

Q is for Quantity. One of the most common mistakes is sowing far too
much seed for the growing space. Carefully consider just how much room
you have before you plant that whole package of broccoli. 

R is for Root. These act as a storehouse for plant food after it is
manufactured from photosynthesis or delivered via fertilizer.

S is for Seed. Available loose in packages, pelleted, on sticks, or in
seed tapes - enclosed between two layers of paper. 

T is for Touch. Prepare your seedlings for light winds by touching
them gently. 

U is for Ultimatum. Deliverance of a threat sometimes causes a
reluctant tray of seeds to germinate overnight.

V is for Vermiculite. Provides aeration and drainage in soil mixes.

W is for water. The essence of growth, it kick starts life into being.

X is for X-Ray. Earlier this year, the potential use of irradiation in
the US postal service to kill Anthrax spores caused concern to mail
order seed companies but this treatment is confined to Washington
destinations. 

Y is for Youngsters. Involve them in sowing seeds. It's a far better
way than puppies to show them how new life begins in this world.

Z is for Zone. Keep them in mind when sowing perennial seeds. Our
hardiness zones are between 5 and 6. Anything above that probably
won't survive our winter.
From Another list: Author Unknown.

Hidatsa Shield Figure Bean 

The Hidasta Indians were experts at raising crops of corn, squash, 
beans and sunflowers in the Missouri River Valley of North Dakota. 
Dual crop of beans climbing up the corn stalks were often grown in 
their gardens. The Shield Figure bean was grown in Buffalo Bird 
Woman's Garden. Pole habit, 90 days
The Hidatsa Shield Figure bean is called Ama'ca ita' wina'ki 
matu'hica in Buffalo Bird Woman's language.
Maxi'diwiac (Buffalo Bird Woman) (ca.1839-1932) recounted her life 
and gardening and it is in the book Buffalo Bird Woman's Garden. I 
believe you can read it in full at 
http://digital.library.upenn.edu/women/buffalo/garden/garden.html
or possibly check it out at your local library.

How To Cook Dry Beans 

Before Cooking - There are several accepted ways of
preparing dry beans for cooking. All start with a thorough washing in
cold water and inspection for damaged beans and foreign material. If
you have time to cook the variety you have chosen until it reaches
the desired tenderness, soaking is not essential. However, most cooks
prefer some method of soaking to shorten cooking time and to improve
either flavor, texture, appearance or digestibility. In either of the
soaking methods below, it is recommended that the soaking water be
discarded and the beans rinsed and cooked in fresh water.

Soaking Tips -Recent studies have shown that bringing
beans to a boil, then soaking for 12 or more hours makes them more
digestible. Therefore, the revised method for traditional soaking is
given here. The quick method is acceptable for occasions when time is
limited.

Traditional Method: Wash one pound dry beans. Add to 10 cups boiling
water; boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat; cover and soak 12 hours or
overnight. Drain, rinse and cook.

Quick Method: Wash one pound dry beans. Add to 10 cups boiling water;
boil 2 to 1 minutes. Cover and soak 1 to 4 hours. Drain, rinse and
cook. Be sure pot is large enough to allow beans to expand 2-1/2
times.

Cooking/Storage Tips Cooking Method: Drain and rinse soaked beans;
put into large kettle. Add 6 cups hot water, 1 to 2 tablespoons
shortening or oil and 2 teaspoons salt. Boil gently with lid tilted
until tender. Cooking time will range from 30 to 60 minutes,
depending on variety of bean.

* Simmer beans slowly. Cooking too fast can break skins.

* Cook enough beans for more than one meal at a time. For storing a
day or two, cover and refrigerate. For longer storage, freeze in
airtight plastic bags or freezer-proof containers.

Bean Equivalents - One pound of dry beans equals about
2-1/4 cups dry or 5 to 6 cups cooked beans. One can (15-1/2 oz.),
drained, equals about 1-2/3 cups.


Boston Baked Beans (Dry K 
Yield: 100 Servings

Ingredients 

2 1/2 ga water; cold
1 qt water; hot
1 lb bacon; sliced fz
9 lb beans kidney #10
1 lb sugar; brown, 2 lb
1/4 c vinegar cider
2 1/3 tb salt table 5lb

Instructions

1. PICK OVER BEANS REMOVING DISCOLORED BEANS AND FOREIGN MATTER. WASH
BEANS THOROUGHLY.

2. COVER WITH WATER. BRING TO A BOIL. BOIL 2 MINUTES. TURN OFF HEAT.

3. COVER; LET SOAK 1 HOUR.

4. BRING BEANS TO A BOIL; ADD MORE WATER IF NECESSARY TO KEEP BEANS
COVERED. SIMMER 1 1/2 HOURS OR UNTIL TENDER (NOT MUSHY).

5. DRAIN BEANS. RESERVE LIQUID AND BEANS.

6. COMBINE SALT, MUSTARD FLOUR, BROWN SUGAR, VINEGAR, MOLASSES,
RESERVED LIQUID AND WATER, AND BACON. ADD TO BEANS; MIX WELL.

7. POUR ABOUT 20 LB 2 OZ (7 1/2 QT) BEAN MIXTURE INTO EACH LIGHTLY
GREASED PAN; COVER. IF CONVECTION OVEN IS USED, BAKE AT 325 DEGREE
F, 1 HOUR TO 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES (OR UNTIL SAUCE IS JUST BELOW SURFACE
OF BEANS) ON HIGH FAN, CLOSED VENT. UNCOVER; STIR; BAKE ADDITIONAL


Native Ways that Buffalo Bird Woman had beans
Ama'ca Di'he?, or Beans-Boiled. The beans were boiled in a clay pot 
with a piece of buffalo fat, or some bone grease. If the beans were 
dried beans, they were boiled a little longer than squash is boiled-a 
half hour or more. Spring salt, or other seasoning, was not used. 
Green beans, shelled from the pod, were sometimes prepared thus 
boiled with buffalo fat or bone grease; but green beans did not have 
to be boiled quite as long as dried beans. 
Green Beans Boiled in the Pod. Green beans in the pod we boiled and 
ate as a vegetable from the time they came in until fall; but we did 
not plant beans, as we did corn, to make them come in late in the 
season, that we might then eat them green. 
Green beans in the pod were boiled in a clay pot, with a little fat 
thrown in. Pods and seeds were eaten together. 
But a green bean pod has in it two little strings that are not very 
good to eat. At meal time the boiled pod was taken up in the fingers 
and carried to the eater's mouth. At one end of the pod is always a 
kind of little hook; the unbroken pod was taken into the mouth with 
this little hook forward, between the teeth; and the eater, seizing 
the little hook between thumb and finger, drew it out of his mouth 
with the two little strings that were always attached to the hook. 
Green Corn and Beans. Pounded green shelled corn was often boiled 
with green beans, shelled from the pod. 

tenzicut
A simple brooding unit may be used to keep a few chicks for a short 
time. The principles of brooding are the same regardless of the 
number of chicks in the flock. Whether there are 2 chicks in the 
brooding unit or 2,000, they need to be kept warm, well fed, and 
watered; protected from predators and dampness; and provided with 
plenty of fresh air without being exposed to drafts. The unit 
described here, when used in a warm place such as a schoolroom or at 
home, will do the job. 

The shape of the brooder box is not important as long as it is large 
enough to house the chicks adequately and contains the equipment 
(water fountain, food, and litter material) to care for the chicks. 
A gooseneck lamp next to the box can provide heat. 

Chicks must be able to get away from direct heat, so having the lamp 
at one end with a slightly cooler area at the other end of the box 
is advisable. If the side of the box is very high, a slot can be 
made so that the base of the lamp can be placed outside while the 
gooseneck fits through the slot and the shade and bulb are inside 
the box. Be sure that such an arrangement does not make the heat in 
the box too intense for the comfort of the chicks. 

A 60- to 75-watt bulb will normally provide enough warmth. The neck 
of the lamp can be bent to move the bulb closer to the chicks, if 
they appear cold, or farther away if the chicks seem to be too warm. 
Comfortable chicks are usually distributed evenly throughout the 
floor area of the brooding unit. 

Each brooder unit should contain at least one waterer and one 
feeder. Place the waterer on a wooden block or stand to help keep 
the litter dry. Chicks should be able to dip only their beaks into 
the water dish, so place pebbles, marbles, or a screen in the dish. 
Wet chicks are much more susceptible to drafts and disease. Chick 
starter with about 20 percent protein can be obtained from a feed 
dealer. As a temporary measure, two parts of dry dog food can be 
mixed with one part of dry cereal. Both should be crushed so that 
the particles are no bigger than one-eighth inch. Feed and water the 
chicks as soon as they are moved from the incubator to the brooder. 

The litter in the brooder serves as insulation and as an absorptive 
material. Peat moss, wood shavings, sawdust, straw, or sand can be 
used. Never place young birds on a smooth surface, because they 
cannot grip a slippery surface. Their toes curl, and their legs 
spread out to the side. This may result in permanent leg damage. 

The walls of the brooder serve as a chick guard and keep drafts off 
the chicks. After the chicks have been put into the brooding unit, 
cover it with a welded-wire screen. This will keep the chicks in and 
predators, such as cats, out. A mesh that is too large will still 
allow chicks to slip through or a cat to reach in. Half-inch welded 
wire or hardware cloth is probably the most satisfactory size to 
use. 

All domestic animals depend on human beings for survival. Make sure 
the chicks are properly housed, have food and water, and are kept 
warm and out of drafts. This means checking the brooder morning, 
noon, and night (just before going to bed). 

Ideal temperature.

Age of Chicks Temperature 
1 day to 1 week 95 
1 week to 2 weeks 90 
2 weeks to 3 weeks 85 
3 weeks to 3 weeks 80 
4 weeks to 5 weeks 75 


Equipment and Supplies for Brooding 12 Chicks 
Cardboard box approximately 28" x 25" x 14". Each chick should have 
about 36 square inches of space, though slightly less room per chick 
is acceptable for a short while. A wooden box is preferable to 
cardboard if other animals are around. A wooden box does not tip 
over as easily and is more difficult to chew. Cover the box with 
welded wire (1/4" to 1/2" mesh) to protect the chicks from other 
animals. 
Gooseneck lamp with a 60- to 75-watt bulb to keep the chicks warm. 
Shavings, straw, shredded paper, or other appropriate litter 
material. 
Feed tray for chicken starter feed. 
Waterer. 


tenzicut
Ag Tanks = The large, usually plastic tanks that ag chemicals AND water
are stored in. Come in assorted shapes and sizes. Some up to 2000 gallons.
(Best on a firm foundation 'cause that is roughly 16000 pounds of water = 8
tons) Cost is reasonable. Better even for the larger tanks holding capacity.
Many are also listed for "potable water".
That said - BUY NEW!!! Only those of much greater powers KNOW for sure
what has been stored in those tanks! If one even worries a tad about stuff
leaching from the plastic itself, don't even dream of what else could leach
from a used tank!
Get one with a "human size" access top. Those things will occassionally
need cleaning out. Because of their resistance to chemicals, they can also
be partially burried which will help prevent the water from freezing in
moderate winter areas (tenzicut, you don't count LOL) and also from becoming
bath water hot in the summer. (Boiled veggies before even leaving the
garden).
"Stock Tanks" = open topped tanks for watering livestock. For those that
find used galvanized ones at farm sales - there ARE plastic/pvc liners made
for most of the standard sizes.

Water capacity: I know many of you only have small gardens, but still,
the amount of water needed for a food producing garden can be amazing.
Mulching for sure helps!! So does spot watering, but for arguements sake,
lets look at a plain old open garden. Most plants need about 1" or
equivalent of rain fall per week. Each square foot of garden will need 144
cubic inches of water (231 cu inches in a gallon) or roughly a lttle less
then 2/3 of a gallon every week. On a 4' X 4' mini-garden that is a mere 10
gallons. BUT for those of us trying to grow enough to feed a family it can
get to be quite a bit. I have a growing area of roughly 60' X 80' most of it
in beds, but if I was to overhead water the entire thing that would be
almost 3000 gallons of water!!! For ONE week!! That is why farmers pray for
rain during the growing seasons and gardeners opt for mulching and drip
irrigation. <VBG>
Conversly a 20' X 30 ' section of roof can deliver almost 375 gallons of
water in a 1" down pour! Get the buckets and barrels out!

Common retail units, their equivalent weights, and 
approximate yields for canning and freezing must be 
tabulated for use by retail marketers. Because it is often 
inconvenient to package produce for direct sale to consumers 
who often want product in smaller quantities, the marketer 
has the option of pricing his produce either in small-volume 
containers or by selling by count when scales are 
unavailable or cannot be certified. The fresh fruits and 
vegetables listed here grown in Illinois and sold at 
roadside stands, farmers'markets, and pick-your-own stands. 

Retail containers are perhaps the most familiar, as they are 
produced in common sizes for retail selling, as compared 
with bushels, lugs, and other containers used in the 
wholesale trade. Wooden baskets are usually round and come 
in sizes of 1/4 peck, 1/2 peck, 1 peck, 1/2 bushel and 1 
bushel. Boxes, shipping cartons and hampers are usually 
made of corrugated paper, often waxed, ranging in size from 
1/2 peck to 1 bushel. Bags are usually of paper and 
polyethylene, with carrying handles and range in size from 
1/4 peck to 1/2 bushel. Kraft bags are used for packaging 
small amounts. Their estimated equivalent volumes are about 
equal to common sizes of paper bags:such as a grocery bag - 
2/3 bushel, a No. 20 bag - 1 peck (8 quarts), a No. 10 bag 
- 1-3/4 gallons (7 quarts), and a No. 8 bag - 1 gallon (4 
quarts). 

Shallow corrugated paper trays are used on pick-your-own 
berry farms and hold about 6 to 8 quarts (10 to 15 pounds). 
Fruit and vegetable baskets are also often made of 
corrugated with carrying handles and range in size from 2 to 
8 quarts. Fruit tills or cups are small containers made of 
a variety of materials, such as: pulp, cardboard, corrugated 
paper, plastic, or wood. Their shape varies with kind of 
container, and quart berry cups are familiar in most 
markets. 

Some definitions and conversions of measurement helpful in 
fruit and vegetable production are as follows: 

Bushel - 2,150 cubic inches, 32 quarts (dry), 64 pts. (dry) 

Peck - 1/4 bushel, 8 dry quarts, 538 cubic inches 

Lug - Shallow containers, usually wood, that vary in size 
for different crops. Used in wholesale markets 

Gallon - 4 quarts, 231 cubic inches. A liquid measure. 

Quart- 58 cubic inches 

Kilo (gram) - 2,205 lbs. 

Liter - 1,057 qts. 


Following is a table of common retail fruits and vegetables, 
including their retail units, their net weight and their 
yield. 


FRUITS 
---------------------------------------------------------- 

APPLES 
(usually sold in volume containers of various sizes) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 42 to 48 1 peck (32 medium apples) 
yields 4qt. canned 
1/2 bushel bag 24 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb. fresh=1 pt. 
frozen 
peck 10 to 14 1 bushel=15 to 18 qt. canned 
applesauce 
=30 to 36 pt. frozen 
applesauce 
=16 to 20 qt. canned, or 
10 to 12 qt. of 
juice 
1 cup pared, sliced=1/4 
lb. 

APRICOTS 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 50 1 bushel yields 48 to 54 pt. 
frozen 
lug 24 1 lug yields 28 to 33 pt. frozen 
peck 12 to 14 2/3 to 4/5 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
1 cup halves, pitted=1/3 lb. 

BLACKBERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

6-qt. t 10 to 12 
gallon 5 to 6 1 cup=1/4 lb. 
quart 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 1-1/2 to 3 lb.=1 qt. canned 

BLUEBERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

6-qt. tray 10 to 12 1 cup=1/3 lb. 
gallon 5 to 6 2-1/4 to 3 lb.=1 qt. canned 
quart 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 1 pt. fresh=1 qt. frozen 
pint 3/4 to 2 

CHERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

lug 15 to 16 2 to 2-1/2 lb.=1 qt. canned, 
unpitted 
quart 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 1 pt.=1pt. frozen, unpitted 
pint 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 1 cup=1/3 lb. 

GOOSEBERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

quart 1-3/4 to 2 

GRAPES 
(with stems) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 44 to 50 1 bushel yields 16 qt. of juice 
lug 24 to 28 1 cup (whole, stemmed)=1/3 lb. 
2-qt. basket 2-1/2 to 3 

PEACHES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 48 to 52 1 bushel yields 16 qt. canned 
1/2-bushel 24 2 to 2-1/2 1b.=1 qt. canned 
lug 19 to 22 1 to 1-1/2 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
peck 12 to 14 1 cup=2/5 lb. 

PEARS 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 48 to 50 1 bushel yields 20 to 25 qt. 
canned 
lug 21 to 24 1 to 1-1/2 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
peck 12 to 14 2 to 2-1/2 lb.=1 qt. canned 
1 cup pared, sliced=2/5 lb. 

PLUMS 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 50 to 56 1 bushel yields 24 to 30 qt. 
canned 
peck 13 to 15 2 to 2-1/2 lb.-1 qt. canned 
1 cup halves=1/3 lb. 

RASPBERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

6-qt tray 8 to 10 1 cup=1/3 lb. 
3-qt tray 
quart 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 
pint 3/4 

STRAWBERRIES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

quart 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 1 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
4-qt basket 6 
6-qt basket 10 to 12 
8-qt basket 12 to 15 
8-qt flat 12 
4-qt crate 36 


VEGETABLES 

ASPARAGUS 
(often sold in bunches weighing 1-1/2 to 2 lb. each) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 45 1 to 1-1/2 lb. yield 1 pt. 
frozen 
pyramid crate 32 3 to 4 lb. yield 1 qt. canned 

BEANS, Lima 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 32 1 bu. yields 12 to 16 pt. 
frozen 
peck 8 3 to 5 lb.= qt. canned 

BEANS, Snap 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 28 to 30 1 bu. yields 30 to 45 pt. 
frozen 
peck 8 to 9 3 to 5 lb.=qt. canned 

BEETS 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 
(often sold in 2 lb. bunches with leaves) 

bushel, topped 50 to 56 1 bu. yields 10 to 12 qt. 
frozen 
2 to 3-1/2 lb.=1 qt. canned 

BROCCOLI 
(usually sold by the haed or bunch weighing 1 to 1-1/2 lb.) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 23 to 25 1 bu. yields 10 to 12 qt. 
canned 
1 lb.=1 pt. frozen 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

quart 1-1/2 1 qt. yields 1-1/2 pt. frozen 

CABBAGE 
(often sold by the head, varying in size with variety and 
tightness of head, usually 2 to 6 lb.) 
Retail Unit Yield 

crate or mesh bag 50 3 lb.=1 qt. canned sauerkraut 
freezer slaw=1 lb.=2 cups 
cooked, or 1 lb.=4 cups 
shredded 

CARROTS 
(often sold in 1 lb. bunch with tops) 
Retail Unit Yield 

bushel, topped 50 1 bu. yields 32 to 40 pt. 
frozen 
2 to 3 lb.=1 qt. canned 

CAULIFLOWER 
(usually sold as 1 to 1-1/2 lb. heads) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

carton of 12 to 
16 trimmed 18 to 24 2 med. heads=3 pt. frozen, or 
1-1/2 qt. canned 

CORN 
Sweet (usually sold by 1 dozen count, which weigh 6 to 8 
lb. in husk) 
Retail Unit Yield 

5 doz. bag or 
wire-bound crate 35 to 40 60 ears yield 14 to 17 pt. 
frozen 
1 doz. ears yield 1 to 1-1/2 pt 
canned 

CUCUMBERS 
(sometimes sold by count) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 48 to 50 1 bu. yields 24 qt of dill 
pickles 
peck 12 to 13 

EGGPLANT 
(usually sold by count, 1 to 1-1/2 lb. each) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 33 to 35 2 average=1 qt. canned, or 2 
pt frozen 

KALE 
(also sold in 1 to 1-1/2 bunches) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 18 1 bu. yields 6 to 9 qt canned, 
12 to 18 pt. frozen 

GREENS 
(Mustard, Spinach, and Turnip often sold in 1 to 1-1/2 
lb. bunches or bags) 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

bushel 48 

OKRA 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 26 1 bu. yields 17 qt. canned, 
34 to 40 pt. frozen 

ONIONS 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

bunch, green 
48 bunches 15 to 18 

ONIONS 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

dry, sack 50 

PEAS (Green, unshelled) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 28 to 30 1 bu. yields 12 to 15 pt frozen 
peck 7 to 8 3 to 6 lb.=1 qt canned 

PEAS, Edible pod peck 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

quart 1 to 1-1/2 

PEPPERS, Green 
(often sold by count) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 25 to 30 2/3 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
large peppers, 80-85 per bu.; 
small peppers, 110 per bu. 

POTATOES 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

new No. 10 bag 10 

PUMPKINS 
(usually sold by count) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

pie pumpkins 5 to 15 2 to 3 lb.=1 qt. canned (as 
cubes) 
jack o'lantern 15 to 40 

RADISHES 
(usually sold in bunches of 1/2 to 3/4 lb.) 

RHUBARB 
Retail Unit Net Weight 

bunch 2 to 2-1/2 1 lb. cooked=3/4 cup 

SQUASH 
summer (zucchini, crookneck, Patty Pan, etc.) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 40 to 44 1 bu. yields 32 to 40 pt frozen 
8 qt. basket 10 2 to 4 lb=1 qt. canned 

SQUASH 
winter (usually sold by count and may be graded by size) 
Net Weight 
3 lb.=2 pt. frozen 
2-1/2 to 3 lb.=1 qt canned 
Small (such as Acorn, Butternut, Buttercup) 
Net Weight 1 to 4 
Intermediate (such as Delicious, Golden Hubbard, Banana) 
Net Weight 6 to 12 
Large (such as Blue Hubbard, Jumbo Banana) 
Net Weight 15 to 40 

SWEET POTATO 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 50 2/3 lb.=1 pt. frozen 
peck 12 to 13 2 to 3 lb.=1 qt. canned 

TOMATOES 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

bushel 50 to 60 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 lb.=1 qt. 
canned 
8 quarts or 1 bu. yields 15 to 20 qt. 
peck basket 12 to 15 canned 

TURNIPS & 
RUTABAGA 
(without tops) 
Retail Unit Net Weight Yield 

mesh bags or 
bushel 50 to 56 1 lb.=2-2/3 cups diced 
peck 12 to 15 

Asparagus Each plant will yield half a dozen spears during harvest season. 

Beans, bush One 10-foot row yields 8 pounds; yellow varieties tend to yield 
less. 

Beans, broad One 10-foot row yields 10 pounds 

Beets One 10-foot row yields 10 pounds; if you prefer small beets, double seeds. 

Broccoli One to three pounds per plant 

Cabbage One to three pounds per plant 

Corn Approximately 30-36 ears per 10-foot row 

Cucumbers 10-15 cucumbers per plant 

Eggplant Four to five pounds per plant 

Onions One pound of sets produces 30-40 pounds of onions. 

Peas, shell One 10-foot row yields 10 pounds. 

Peppers Six to 22 bell peppers per plant 

Potatoes Five pounds of seed potatoes yield 125 pounds of potatoes. 

Summer squash & zucchini If kept picked, one plant will yield 5 pounds of 
squash. 

Tomatoes Yields vary tremendously, but on average, 6-8 pounds per plant 
From:   Michael Vanecek <mike@mjv.com> 
Date:  Mon Jun 23, 2003  10:57 pm
Subject:  bamboo rhizomes 


The bamboo rhizomes I dug up seems to have survived. Well, day two 
anyway. I need to plant them here pretty quick. A bucket of water does 
not make a good home for bamboo. A few more of those and a few years and 
I'll have a wall of bamboo to give us some privacy. 

Oh...a 12" deep by 12" wide trench and a pair of snips is all that's needed to 
control the spread of these guys. Seriously. Trench the bed and snip any rhizome 
that pokes through periodically. Behind the cut new tips will branch out and go 
*along* the trench and not across it. Amazing. 

Much more effective than those 3' deep plastic barriers - a solid barrier 
motivates the rhizome to go up or down - and if down it can breach the 
bottom of the barrier and go under. Now...a slanting barrier can help 
motivate the tips upward. Anyway, a trench is just air. The rhizome 
tries to cross it at it's comfortable depth. When cut, the branches go 
along it since there's no barrier to motivate it to go down. Pretty neat.

Have fun,
Mike 
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DYEING 
The materials should be perfectly clean; soap should be rinsed out in soft 
water; the articles hould be entirely wetted, or it will spot; light colours 
should be steeped in brass, tin or earthen; and, if set at all, should be set 
with alum. Dark colours should be boiled in iron, and set with copperas; too
much 
copperas rots the thread.

FOR COLOURING SKY BLUE 
Get the blue composition; it may be had at the druggist's, or clothier's, for 
a shilling an ounce. If the articles are not white, the old colours should 
all be discharged by soap or a strong solution of tartaric acid, then rinsed;
12 
or 16 drops of the composition, stirred into a quart-bowl of warm water, and 
strained if settlings are seen, will dye a great many articles. If you want a 
deeper colour, add a few drops more of the composition. If you wish to colour 
cotton goods, put in pounded chalk to destroy the acid, which is very 
destructive to all cotton; let it stand until the effervescence subsides, and
then it 
may be safely used for cotton or silk.

FOR LILAC COLOUR 
Take a little pinch of archil, and put some boiling hot water upon it, add to 
it a very little lump of pear-lash. Shades may be altered by pear-lash, 
common slat, or wine. 

TO COLOUR BLACK 
Logwood and cider, boiled together in iron, water being added for the 
evaporation, makes a good durable black. Rusty nails or any bits of rusty iron, 
boiled in vinegar, with a small piece of copperas, will also dye black; so will
ink 
powder, if boiled with vinegar. In all cases, black must be set with 
copperas.

TO DYE LEMON COLOUR 
Peach leaves, bark scraped from the barberry bush, or saffron, steeped in 
water, and set with alum, will colour a bright lemon, drop in a little
gum-arabic 
to make the articles stiff.

TO DYE ROYAL PURPLE 
Soak logwood chips in soft water until the strength is out, then add a 
teaspoonful of alum to a quart of the liquid; if this is not bright enough, add
more 
alum, rinse and dry. When the dye is exhausted, it will colour a fine lilac.

TO DYE SLATE COLOUR 
Tea grounds, boiled in iron vessels, set with copperas, makes a good slate 
colour. To produce a light slate colour, boil white maple bark in clear water, 
with a little alum. The bark should be boiled in brass utensils. The goods 
should be boiled in it and then hu

TO DYE SCARLET 
Dip the cloth in a solution of alkaline or metallic salt, then in a cochineal 
dye, and let it remain some time, and it will come out per manently coloured. 
Another method: 1/2 lb. of madder, 1/2 oz. of cream tartar, and 1 oz. of 
marine acid to 1 lb. of cloth; put it all together, and bring the dye to a 
scalding heat; put in your materials, and they will be coloured in ten minutes.
Th e 
dye must be only scalding hot. Rinse your goods in cold water as soon as they 
come from the dye.

TO COLOUR A BRIGHT MADDER 
For 1 lb. of yard or cloth, take 3 ozs. of madder; 3 ozs. of alum; 1 oz. of 
cream tartar; prepare a brass kettle with two gallons of water, and bring the 
liquor to a steady heat, then add your alum and tartar, and bring it to a boil; 
put in your cloth, and boil it two hours; take it out, and rinse it in cold 
water; empty your kettle, and fill it with as much water as before; then add 
your madder; rub it in fine in the water before your cloth is in. When your dye 
is as warm as you can bear your hand in, then put in your cloth, and let it 
lie one hour, and keep a steady heat; keep it in motion constantly, then bring 
it to a boil fifteen minutes, then air and rinse it. If your goods are new, use 
4 ozs. of madder to a lb.

TO COLOUR GREEN 
If you wish to colour green, have your cloth as free as possible from the old 
colour, clean, and rinsed; and, in the first place, colour it deep yellow. 
Fustic, boiled in soft water, makes the strongest and brightest yellow dye; but 
saffron, barberry-bush, peach-leaves, or onion-skins, will answer pr etty 
well. Next take a bowlful of strong yellow dye, and pour in a great spoonful or 
more of the blue composition, stir it up well with a clean stick, and dip the 
articles you have already coloured yellow into it, and they will take a lively 
grass-green. This is a good plan for old bombazet-curtains, dessert-cloths, old 
flannel for desk coverings, &c.

TO DYE STRAW COLOUR AND YELLOW 
Saffron, steeped in earthen and strained, colours a fine straw colour. It 
makes a delicate or deep shade, according to the strength of the tea. Colouring 
yellow is described in receipt No.212. In all these cases a little bit of alum 
does no harm, and may help to fix the colour. Ribbons, gauze handkerchiefs, &
c., are coloured w ell in this way, especially if they be stiffened by a bit of 
gum-arabic, dropped in while the stuff is steeping.

TO DYE A DRAB COLOUR 
Take plum tree sprouts, and boil them an hour or more; add copperas, 
according to the shade you wish your articles to be. White ribbons take very
pretty in 
this dye.

TO DYE PURPLE 
Boil an ounce of cochineal in a quart of vinegar. This will afford a 
beautiful purple.

TO DYE BROWN 
Use a teaspoonful of soda to an ounce of cochineal, and a quart of soft 
water.

TO COLOUR PINK 
Boil 1 lb. of cloth an hour in alum water, pound 3/4 of an oz. of coc hineal 
and mix 1 oz. of cream of tartar; put in a brass kettle, with water, enough to 
cover the cloth; when about blood hot, put in your cloth, stir constantly, 
and boil about fifteen minutes.

TO DYE A COFFEE COLOUR 
Use copperas in a madder-dye, instead of madder compound.

TO DYE NANKIN COLOUR 
The simplest way is to take a pailful of lye, to which put a piece of 
copperas half as big as a hen's egg; boil in a copper or tin kettle.

TO MAKE ROSE COLOUR 
Balm blossoms, steeped in water, colour a pretty rose colour. This answers 
very well for the linings of children's bonnets, for ribbons, &c.

TO DYE STRAW AND CHIP BONNETS BLACK 
Boil them in strong logwood liquor 3 or 4 hours, occasionally adding green 
copperas, and taking the bonnets out to cool in the air, and this must be 
continued for some hours. Let the bonnets remain in the liquor all night, and
the 
next morning take them out, dry them in the air, and brush them with a soft 
brush. Lastly, rub them inside and out with a sponge moistened with oil, and
then 
send them to be blocked. Hats are done in the same way.

TO DYE WHITE GLOVES A BEAUTIFUL PURPLE 
Boil 4 oz. of logwood, and 2 oz. of roche-alum, in 3 pints of soft water, 
till half wasted; let it stand to be cold after straining. If they be old
gloves 
let them be mended; then do them over with a brush, and when dry repeat it. 
Twice is sufficient unless the colour is to be very dark; when dry, rub off the 
loose dye with a coarse cloth; beat up the white of an egg, and with a sponge, 
rub it over the leather. The dye will stain the hands, but wetting them with 
vinegar before they are washed will take it off.

TO BLEACH STRAW HATS, &c. 
Straw hats and bonnets are bleached by putting them, previously washed in 
pure water, in a box with burning sulphur; the fumes which arise unite with the 
water on the bonnets, and the sulphurous acid, thus formed, bleaches them.

TO DYE SILKS BLACK 
To 8 gallons of water add 4 ozs. of copperas; immerse for 1 hour and take out 
and rinse ; boil 2 lbs. logwood chips, or 1/2 lb. of extract; 1/2 lb. of 
fustic; and for white silks, 1/2 lb. of nicwood; dissolve 2 lbs. of good
bar-soap 
in a gallon of water; mix all the liquids together, and then add the soap, 
having just enough to cover the silk; stir briskly until a good lather is
formed, 
then immerse the silk and handle it lively. The dye should be as warm as the 
hand will bear; dry quickly and without rinsing. The above is enough for 10 
yards or one dress.

TO COLOUR YELLOW ON COTTON 
Wet 6 lbs. of goods thoroughly; and to the same quantity of water add 9 oz. 
of sugar of lead; and to the same quantity of water in another vessel, add 6 
oz. of bichromate of potash; dip the goods first into th e solution of sugar of 
lead, and next into that of the potash, and then again into the first; wring 
out, dry, and afterwards rinse in cold water.

>From an old book of "useful receipts" from 1861, Toronto 


Basic rules for home storage:


Rule 1: Store what you eat, and eat what you store. It would be too 
bad to have a supply of food you would only eat with the greatest 
reluctance. Also, you can spend a lot of money on a supply of food 
and other provisions now, but after 15 or 20 years it won't be much 
good anymore. Which brings us to the second rule. 

Rule #2: Rotate your food supply. Eat the old and replace with new 
food. It's great on the pocket book. Large amounts can be purchased 
when they are on sale, then used when they are not. This may also 
require you to change your eating habits just a bit - like eating 
more whole grain and legume foods that are inexpensive but 
nutritious. But whatever you choose to store, be sure it's something 
you can eat or it will never get rotated.

Rule #3: Whatever you store, insure it is as nutritious as possible 
with the 50 essential elements required for good health. You should 
also consider storing a good mineral/vitamin supplement. 

Rule #4: Special care should be taken in preserving your emergency 
supply, especially if you plan on storing it for several years. 
Generally, if you plan on using it up within a year it should be 
safe to store your dry grains and beans in the paper or plastic bags 
it came in. But if you do this, be sure you have a cool, dry place 
to keep it. Bugs are always a serious concern. If you haven't bug 
proofed your food you need to check it every few weeks to insure it 
stays insect free. Aside from packing up your own dry goods, you can 
also...

Can your garden produce in bottles. This works best for fresh 
vegetables and fruits, and even meat if it is done correctly. 
However, know that after two years, wet packed foods in cans or 
bottles lose much of their nutritional value. Rotation is the key! 

Dehydrate your own foods. Some foods that lend themselves well to 
this kind of food preservation are potatoes, carrots, onions, 
peppers, and all kinds of fruits. After dehydration, be sure to 
store them in air tight bags or containers. It would also be a good 
idea to throw in a couple of oxygen absorber packets. 

Whatever method you use to preserve your food, Store it in a cool, 
dry, dark place.

Rule 5: Learn to grow a garden now before any hard times come. This 
way you will get the trial and error out of the way before you 
really need to eat off your garden. For someone who has never grown 
a garden before, it is not as easy as it may seem. There is a real 
art to growing a great garden and this knowledge doesn't come all at 
once. Become proficient at it now, and learn now how to preserve 
what you grow. I store 18 months worth of home canned most years

tenzicut - who is starting from scratch

Seed Saving : Basil

Basil will cross pollinate with other basils and must be seperated by 
150 feet while flowering. Plants form seed capsules containing 4 
seeds.Allow seed capsules to dry, then harvest and then seperate by 
hand.

Store in a paper bag inside a glass jar and keep in a cool, dark, dry 
place

tenzicut
Seed Saving : Beans

Bean are easy for a beginning seed saver to learn on.

Seed Saving Instructions: Bean flowers are self-pollinating and 
almost never cross-pollinate. As a precaution never plant two white 
seeded varieties side-by-side if you intend to save seed because 
crossing may occur but not be visible. It is always best to save seed 
from plants that ripen first and are free from disease. Harvest seed 
pods when completely dry, crush in a cloth or burlap sack and winnow 
the seeds from the chaff. Store in a papper bag and freeze for a 
couple hours to kill any vermin and then label and put in a glass jar 
and store in a cool, dark, dry place

tenzicut
Beet Sugar Making
From:  "cynthia brennemann" thornkell@charter.net 

You start by shredding the scrubbed beet and just covering with
water. Then you cover and simmer for about an hour. Then you remove
the beet pulp and squeeze it and press it to get all possible liquid
from it. The pulp is a great amendment for compost, or livestock
food.

The liquid should then be strained through a very fine mesh or
cheesecloth and simmered until it condenses by half, and then boiled
until conditions are right for sugar crystals to grow. Then the
liquid is poured into a pan and kept hot in an oven until crystals
start to form. Once the crystals have formed, the molasses part is
poured off to be used elsewhere, and the crystals are dried. It
takes a spinner to get all the molasses off. If you don't have one,
you'll have a raw, brownish sugar, which is still sweet and good, but
more strongly flavored. Give it a dry with hot air, and then package
it.

Beet molasses is not as good as cane molasses, by the way, but is
still quite good for use in further sugar production, microbe
growing, alcohol making, and livestock sweetening.


If foxglove is grown near potatoes or other root crops, they will 
store better. 

Foxglove stimulatees the growth and longevity of neighboring plants.

Tea made from foxgloves added to floral water will make arrangements 
last longer.

Don't forget that all foxgloves are poisonous.
Fri Jan 2, 2004  6:44 pm

Pic of the Day - Challenge Project - Braided Rugs

 
For those of you whom are new, every now and again we have an
"I Dare You/Challenge Project" with some kind of project that is
homesteading/farming/self-sufficient in topic. This time around it
is how to make a braided rug for your floors, or on a smaller scale
for your kitchen chairs. I have a small braided rug on one of my 100
year old + kitchen chairs and it is rather comfy though the green
paint on the chair MUST go one of these days.

The "Pic of the Day" can be located at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/

Previous "Challenge Projects" (formerly called "I Dare You
Projects") are located at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/files/
under the File "Challenges Dares and Projects"

I am basing these instructions from a 1932 Braided rug instruction
which was originally from a Womans Magzine in that year.

I have photos of various braiding and such in our PHOTO album which
is located at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/lst
and will be under the Folder " Braided Rugs"

The sphere of the braided rug has enlarged since great grandmother's
time. No longer must it remain solely underfoot in order to "keep
its place". Smaller rugs are intended for chair-seats, and are as
comfortable and good-looking as can be. A step or two higher in the
scale and we see them serving in delightful fashion as hot dish mats
for the table; there seems, indeed no limit to the uses that may be
found for this simple old-time handicraft.

Materials vary--a great deal depending, of course, on the purpose
for which the completed piece is intended. For table-mats--which may
be of any desired size, round or oval--white or unbleached cotton
will serve, with a touch of color, if liked, given by having one
strand of a shade which matches the predominating tint of the china,
perhaps; or there may be a bit of colorful embroidery in simplest
stitch. Again, two colors of chambray or other goods of similar
texture may be used, or white for the center of the mat with a braid
in color for the border. Ample opportunity is sure to be found for
the exercise of one's creative genius, in any case; and no matter
how material, coloring and uses may differ, the methods of making
are practically the same.

The rags are cut or torn in strips an inch and a half in width--
wider for thin goods--both edges are evenly turned under and then
the strip is folded lengthwise in the middle. By this means no raw
edges are in evidence. Some workers like to iron the strips,
thinking the folds stay in place better; others, especially when
using heavier worsted material, advocate cutting the strips narrower
and simply turning the edges under, omitting the middle fold. In
this way their right side of the braid--and the mat-- is kept free
from any appearance of frayed or raw edges and the finished piece,
lined, has an equally smooth wrong side, but of course can only be
used "right side up with care", while if the strips are prepared as
directed the rug or mat is reversible. By a little experimenting one
can readily determine the method best suited to her requirements and
material.

The three-strand braid is commonly used, being easiest to handle and
sew, and better in case of small articles, for which indeed, the
wider braids-- of four, five, six and seven strands are not easy to
manage. Using any color or colors desired, one, two, or three, join
one end of each of the three strips and attach to any convenient
object heavy enough to hold while the strands are evenly woven. Pick
up the first or right-hand strand, carry it over the second or
middle strand, then pick up the third or left-hand strand, bring it
to the right over the first, which is now the middle strand, then
take the strand at the right again, and continue; that is all there
is to it; a simple weaving back and forth. Do not draw the strands
too tightly; just keep a firm, even tension. When it is necessary to
joint two strips simply fold the end of one over that of the other,
half an inch or so, and sew both sides carefully.

Having braided a sufficient length for the center of the mat, "begin
at the beginning" of the braid, fold it to form a tiny circle,
sewing securely, then carry the braid around and around, drawing it
in on the inner or fulling it on the outer side, and sewing edge to
edge with strong thread, well-waxed. Add rows of other colors, as
liked. Completed the mat should lie flat and smooth. There are
different ways of doing the sewing; the old-time method of joining
the edges was by means of small over-and-over stitches or ball-
stitch--taking first into one edge, then the other Another method
thought by at least one good rug maker to be the best ever, uses
twine or carpet warp and a bodkin or blunt needle of sufficient size
to take the thread; pass through every other loop on both edges, not
catching into the braid itself. To make the joining extra strong go
over it a second time, taking into the loops missed before. This
method makes the work the same on both sides, and is really easier
than the usual sewing.

With standard braids, the outermost strands are brought to the
center of the braid. The common 3-strand braid is a standard braid.
Theoretically there is no limit to the number of strands that can be
used with a standard braid, except how many strands can be held in
each hand. Up to twelve strand standard braids were made to make
rugs. The virtue of these braids is that a nice thick braid can be
made of fairly light weight fabric strips. Many of the older braided
rugs made with cotton strips have multiple strands in a standard
braid, and unless you look closely at the rug you will think that
the 3 strand braid was used because all standard braids have more or
less the same shape and appearance.

With flat braids, the more strands used, the wider the braid
becomes. Flat braids of 4 to 12 strands were used for rugs made with
cottons or wools. The flat braids (except for the 4-strand) all work
the outermost strands over and under various combinations of one or
two other strands. This allows various striped, chevron or diamond
patterns to appear in the braid itself.

I used old blue jeans several years ago and though rough and rather
rustic, it made a great mudroom rug.

If you are gonna give it a try, please tell us, if you make one ..
PLEASE take pictures and post them for us to see, keep us informed
of your progress and the ups and downs.

tenzicut
 
Bug out bags... make copies of all important licenses, morgages,
insurance papers, marriage certificates.

For each family member: (Each should have a personal backpack)
2 days worth of clothes, 2 weeks of any special medicines they need,
spare pair of glasses if they wear them. 1-2 small toys per child.
Toothbrush/paste, small shampoo bottle/soap/towel. Sanitary napkins
for whomever might need them in the family. A small 1st aid kit. A
spare pair of shoes. Gloves, spare socks. Comb. 1-2 spare batteries
for any hearing aides. Keep emergencies numbers for family/insurance
group/work/school. Put relatives that are out of State phone numbers
in there. It is weird, but when local lines are down from some
natural disaster, many times the long distance lines will still be
working. A emergency blanket. a THICK plastic bag. A small throw
blanket. Family radios are not a bad idea. Put new batteries in when
you check the packs every 6 months. hard candy and a 2 liter bottle
of water

Store these in an area near a exit door, like a coat closet. Update
them every 6 months.

Have an emergency plan worked out. Practice it with the whole
family. "What do you do IF..."... the IF being.. the house on fire,
the field on fire, the roadway on fire, the barn on fire.

Have a site that you will go to.. have a backup site in case the 1st
one is on fire

I personally would start with a smaller creature if you have never 
processed an animal before. This IS a homesteading site. Butchering 
happens on many homesteads. Many people do not know how to do this 
and it is a skill that is at times needed. Case in point, I almost 
went out with a friend today to a farm where they had a 14 year old 
cow that was down and could not get up. Cattle have to get trucked 
from here as there are no processing plants. It was either, shoot 
her and let the wild animals have her, or process her and utilize 
the meat for my musher friends dogs.

If you have never butchered an animal before, I suggest you start 
with rabbits and chickens. Then perhaps a 4-5 month old goat kid. 

It helps if you have a tractor with bucket, many of the people 
around here that butcher on the farm for home use, have outside 
sheds for hanging the meat. It is cold enough here, that 
refrigeration is not needed. One family does 6 cows/steers twice 
yearly for all 15 families in their family. The whole crews come and 
help from start to finish.

Many people do not know where the different cuts of beef are from, 
so I found this little game on the net for you to play with. Dont 
take offense from the title of it.

http://www.mistupid.com/food/butcher.htm

This is a good article from Backwoods Home on home butchering. It is 
graphic, so you vegetarians or people who prefer not to know where 
your meat comes from, may want to avoid the link.

http://www.self-reliance.com/articles/geissal23.html

tenzicut


Sharp knife and wrapping paper, tape and a sharpie pen.. cut off all
the bruised and damaged meat.. it will spoil fast and ruin some of
the rest of the meat. I am presuming you have already gutted it and
it is headless and it has been hung upside down to drain any blood?

Usually you would hang them for a few days to age, but I think you
wont have that option due to the way the deer died.

I am not sure where you are, but it is illegal in most (all?) areas
to take a hit deer home. I agree with using the meat, but stay quiet
about it, since you already have it home. Dont send it out to get
ground, grind it at home.

The easiest thing to do is inspect where the muscle segments are. I
am presuming you dont have a meat saw, so I would run my fingers and
seperate muscle from muscle and mucle from bone... the easiest ones
to see what I am talking about are down the backstraps... they are
the large muscles on the back next to the spine. You may have to
wedge the knife down and cut these out. They will be about 3-4
inches deep and fairly long. There will be one on each side of the
spine. Once you have these out, you can lay them on your cutting
board and slice across them 3/4-1 " thick to make steaks.

Separate the shoulder muscles and make roasts or cut them down
crosswise and make more steaks.

Trim as much meat from the neck that you can. Any small bits from
anywhere on the animal save for jerkey, hamburger or sausage. All
fat should be trimmed off meat before wrapping, though deer dont
generally have alot fo fat on them unless they have been in an
alfalfa field or some farmers cow's grain.

Cut off the meat between the ribs and save for jerkey, hamburger or
sausage.

To prepare ribs for BBQing, saw the ribs into 5 to 7-inch pieces,
though I think I would just cut as much meat off them as possible
and save for jerkey, hamburger or sausage (I am saying that alot
aint I?).

Keep cutting and seperating muscles. Double wrap the meat and mark
it with the contents. If you want to make jerkey or sausage, cut in
strips or cubes and chill and contact your meat man and ask about
getting some casings and leaf fat and pork butt in.

My personal thing is.. I dont eat wild meat until it has been frozen
for 30 days as I have seen too many tapeworms in wild meat. The
freezing will kill the larva.

If you want to make sausage, here is my recipe I use for deer and
goat meats.

What I call my 'bratwursts'..

Fresh Garlic Sausage

1.5# lean pork butt
1.5# goat meat
1.0# pork fat (use leaf fat only)
2 tsp sugar
3 tsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup coarse salt
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ginger
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp dried thyme
1/4 cup white wine

Grind all 3 meats with a fine disk, then mix spices and then add
with the meat. Shape and wrap patties or put bulk into a package or
use casings and stuff them. I make them in 6 inch links and link 6
together. I then freeze. I also make about 66# of links and when I
tire of that, I make bulk. Excellent spaghetti meat.


Mild Salami
4# venison
4# lean pork butt
2# pork fat (leaf fat only)
2 TB black pepper
1 TB white pepper
1 tsp cayenne red pepper
2 TB sugar
2 tsp garlic
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

1tsp finely ground corriander seed
1 tspfinely ground fennel seed
1/2 tsp ascorbic acid
1/2 c dry white wine
1/2 c brandy

Cube meats, chill and then grind with a coarse disk. Mix meats and
chill for 30-40 mins. Grind meats with a fine disk. Mix spices and
other ingrediants. Cure 24 hrs in the refrigerator. Prepare casings
and tie into 12 " links. Dry for 8-12 weeks. Yes dry, no cooking.
yes, I hemmed and hawed about it too and it is great.. It is a
little bit disconcerning to have it shrink from the size of a
bratwurst to that of a pepperoni stick in front of your eyes
however.

tenzicut


It is strongly suggested that rendering of tallow be done outside.
There are two major reasons for this. Most important is the
extremely high potential for fire. Second, the boiling fat will
leave a greasy coating which is difficult to remove.

Care should be taken to not overfill the pot and to keep the tallow
away from high flames and flying embers. If a pot of tallow flames
up, it is best to put a lid over it to cut off the oxygen to the
fire. Do not try to put out a tallow fire with cold water.

HOW TO RENDER TALLOW

Fill a big pot 3/4 full of chopped beef fat (chunks should be no
larger than 1/2" - 1" in size) . Cover the fat with water. Bring to
a rolling boil and maintain until the water has evaporated and the
fat rendered. As long as there is a lot of water in the pot, only a
little tallow will be produced. It is only when most of the water is
gone, and the fat is sitting in a shallow layer of liquid that most
of the tallow is extracted from the fat. When most of the water has
boiled away, several changes will rapidly occur. You will need to
watch the pot closely. The bubbles of the mixture will become
smaller and less violent. The color of the liquid changes from a
light, muddy - brown color, to a dark, clear liquid. The fat is
rendered when it turns into brown crisps which have the appearance
of bacon. Also, a scent of bacon becomes very strong. It may take
about three hours to reach this point.

If the tallow is left on the fire after the water has completely
evaporated, it could reach the flash point and burst into flames.
You will know when this is about to happen if a light, white smoke
is given off. At this point the tallow should be taken off the fire.
Use extreme caution when removing the pot from the heat. Spilled
tallow can cause an explosive, highly dangerous fire.

Let it cool about ten minutes then strain the impurities from the
tallow. Add 33% paraffin to the tallow, so the candles will hold
their shape. The elk, deer, and buffalo tallow used by the Lewis and
Clark Expedition was firmer and didn't need the added paraffin.

The tallow is ready to pour into your wicked molds.

Cut 100% cotton wicking or twine (8-12 ply) into approximately 18-20
inch sections. Tie a knot about two inches from one end of each
string. On the same end, rub a bit of tallow and twist to a point
(this helps the string go through the small hole). With the knotted
end first, lower each string into one of the larger holes of the
mold and down through the smaller hole in the bottom. Tie a larger
knot outside of (and next to) the bottom hole. The inner single knot
helps pull the candles out. The outside knot seals the bottom hole.
Across the top of the mold tie each pair of strings to a small,
pencil-sized stick. Make sure they are tight and centered.

Before pouring tallow, remove it from the fire and place it away
from all heat sources. It's best to let the mixture cool a little.

Carefully pour the warm tallow into the wicked molds. Fill the
molds, and partially fill the flat reservoir on the top. This is
necessary because the wicking absorbs some tallow and the tallow
shrinks as it cools. Make sure the wicks are still centered in the
candles.

Let filled molds set for approximately one hour. Cracks throughout
the tallow in the reservoir is one indication the candles are ready
to remove from the molds.

To remove the candles from the molds, you must first cut the knots
off the bottom of the molds. Be careful not to cut into the molds.
Remove the tallow from the reservoir. Use the sticks as handles to
pull the candles from the molds. Cut the sticks off the candles. Cut
the knot off the tip of the candle if it is exposed. Your candles
are now ready for use.

Placing your candles in the freezer for 24 hours before using will
make them burn longer. We have found that a good quality candle will
usually last about 5-6 hours.

tenzicut

Necessity is the mother of invention and early candles sometimes
took rather bizarre forms to utilize available resources. The use
of, and improvements to candles has parallelled mans ascent from the
stone age. There is no historical record of the first candles used
by man, however clay candle holders dating from the fourth century
B.C. have been found in Egypt. Early Chinese and Japanese candles
were made with wax derived from insects and seeds molded in paper
tubes. Wax skimmed from boiling cinnamon was the basis of tapers for
temple use in India. It is the Romans who are credited with
developing the wick candle, using it to aid travelers at dark, and
lighting homes and places of worship at night. The first known
candle in America dates to the first century A.D. Native Americans
burned oily fish (candlefish) wedged into a forked stick (YUCK!!!).
Early missionaries in the southwestern United States boiled the bark
of the Cerio tree and skimmed the wax. Settlers in New England used
the same technique to obtain wax from Bayberries. To this day
Bayberry candles are made the same way, although cost is prohibitive
since it takes one and a half quarts of Bayberries to make an 8 inch
taper candle. Tallow, made by rendering animal fat was another
common candle making material. Because of its odor, beeswax was
preferred although more expensive. The advent of paraffin in the
1800's made tallow obsolete, and it is rarely used in candles
anymore.

Candle making as we know it began in the 13th. century when
traveling chandlers went door to door making dipped tapers from
their clients tallow or beeswax (wealthier clients). The first use
of molds for candle making was in 15th. century Paris.

The Renaissance of candle crafting was during the 19th. century.
Candle molding machines were developed in the first half of the
century. In 1811 pioneer work lead to the development of stearin.
The braided wick was introduced in 1825. This year also saw the
manufacture of stearic acid (a candle additive used to harden and
opacify wax) begin. Paraffin development began in 1830. A continuous
wicking machine was invented in 1834. Mordanting of wicks was a
major breakthrough in 1834. Mordanting causes the burned end of the
wick to curl outside of the flame zone where it turns to ash.
Manufactured paraffin was introduced in 1850, providing an
alternative to tallow. In 1854 paraffin and stearin were combined to
create stronger candles, very similar to those we use today.

Chandlery has pretty much continued to this day with few changes,
other than differences in styles. Mold technology has improved, new
additives are available such as dyes, and scents. Most modern
candles are made of Paraffin, although beeswax candles are
undergoing a recent surge in popularity. Bayberry candles are still
made, but rare.

The term candlepower is based on a measurement of the light produced
by a pure spermaceti candle weighing one sixth of a pound, burning
at a rate of 120 grams per hour. Spermaceti is found in the head of
Sperm Whales, and once was used to make candles.

Making Hand Dipped Candles

Materials:
* Plain Paraffin Wax ( about 1/2 a pound) can be found at grocery
stores & craft shops

* Double Boiler or you can use a large coffee can for melting wax
in, inserted in a pot filled half full of water. (Never place the
container of wax directly on the heat source as it poses a severe
fire hazard.) I Use an old coffee pot from a thrift shop.

*Wooden Spoon for stirring

*Bowls: for cold water baths

*Candle Thermometer. Also candy or meat thermometer works just as
well.

*Heat. Kitchen stove.

*Wick: available in most craft and hobby stores in various sizes.
The size of the wick is important. The sizes increase in 1/2 inch
variations. Use this as a guide. 1/2" wick to 1/2" candle. A 1" wick
is suitable for a 1" candle etc.

*Color: you can get it in cakes,chips, powdered or liquid forms
which is usually available in craft stores or you can also use
crayons but it doesn't burn as well.

*Scents: you can use fragrance oil or concentrated chips available
at craft shops. The oil you use must be pure oil and have no water
or alcohol base.

Directions for making hand dipped candles:

1. Begin by cutting up your wax in small pieces so it will melt
quicker.

2. Next heat the water using a medium temperature, bring to a gentle
boil. Place the wax in the double broiler or if you are using a
coffee can place the can into the water.* Don't use high heat, it
may cause the wax to catch on fire.

3. Stir the wax until it is completely melted and it reaches a
temperature of 160 F or 71 Celsius.(Test the temperature by placing
the thermometer in the center of the melted liquid). Turn the heat
down. Keep water warm enough to keep the wax melted.

4. Now its time to add your color. Add the crayons or color chips to
the melted wax. Add a little at a time until you have reached the
desired shade. Make note that the wax changes colors to a shade
lighter when it cools. Test it by allowing a spoonful to dry on a
plate. Once you have the shade you like, it would be a good idea to
write down the amounts you have used so you can make it again.

5. You can now add the scent if you wanted scented candles. The more
oil you use, the stronger the scent will be. Keep in mind that
adding too much may affect the way the candle burns, moderation is
the key to having nicely scented candles. Stir until well blended.

6. Make sure the wax stays melted. Check that the temperature of the
wax is still 160F/71 C.

7. Now on to the next stage. Begin with cutting the wick to the
desired length of candles plus a little extra to hold. Example: If
you want 2 ten inch candles cut about 23 inches of wick. You will be
making two at the same time. Double over the wick over your finger.
Here's where the dipping starts. Dip the wick in the wax for a few
seconds then lift back out. Allow the wax to cool between dippings
about a minute or so. You may find it a little tricky to get started
at first because the wick floats on top of the wax until it gets
weighed down. Don't worry before long you'll get the hang of it.
Just make sure the wet candles don't touch each other.

8. Continue the dipping and cooling process. After a few layers,
although not necessary, you can speed up the cooling process by
dipping the candles in cool water after each wax dip.

9. Repeat the process until the candles have reached the proper
thickness. If lumps occur, roll warm candles on a smooth surface.

10. Increase the temperature until it reaches 182 F. Dip the pair
into the wax one more time for a few seconds. Lift out then let them
cool.

11. Using a sharp knife trim the bottoms to remove excess wax and to
create a straight edge bottom for you candles.

12. Hang your candles to dry. Once they are dried you can cut the
wick. Time to enjoy your new creation!

Safety tips for candle making

1. Never leave children alone with melting or melted wax. Because it
does not boil or steam, they may not realize how hot it is.

2. Never leave hot wax alone.

3. Never heat wax over 275ø F, wax flashes from liquid to flame at
375ø F.

4. Never let wax come in contact with flames. If you develop a wax
fire, treat it as you would a grease fire. Do not throw water on it.
Use a fire extinguisher (type ABC) or if it is contained in a pan,
cover with a lid, extinguish any heat source and leave the lid in
place until the area has cooled.

5. Use a temperature gauge and always know what the temperature is
at all times.

6. Always use the water bath method of melting wax, never place your
wax container directly on the heat source. Also, use a wire rack to
keep the wax container from resting on the bottom of the water pan.
Keep a close watch on the water level, it will evaporate quickly and
must be replenished frequently. When done this way and properly
supervised, you will eliminate any flash potential.

7. Don't pour wax down the drain, it will block them.


Canning Jar Candles

BY RACHEL PAXTON
c Copyright 2001
Canning jar candles are very easy to make, make great gifts, and are
only limited by your imagination!

To start all you need are some old wide mouth canning jars, wire
ribbon, potpourri, votive candles, small glass votive candle
holders, and craft glue or a hot glue gun.

If you don't have any old canning jars, you can find some very
inexpensively at thrift stores and yard sales. Wire ribbon can be a
little expensive. Look for it at yard sales and at craft store
clearance sales. The after-Christmas sales a great time to stock up.
One roll of ribbon will make several canning jar candles. Potpourri
you can make yourself or buy on sale. Votive candles are inexpensive
at stores like Target or Walmart, and you can also find glass votive
candle holders very inexpensively at Walmart. You want one that will
set in the rim of the canning jar.

You can fill the canning jar with whatever you wish. Potpourri is
one of the easiest fillers. I bought a nice autumn-scented potpourri
and added some orange slices I'd dried in my food dehydrator. You
can also add dried cranberries, apple slices, or cinnamon sticks.

After you fill the jar, you set the candle holder inside the mouth
of the jar. The top of the candle holder should be even with the top
of the jar.

You might have a little trial and error before you find just the
right candle holder. Place the candle in the holder and then use the
ribbon to tie a big bow around the neck of the jar. That's it! (You
might want to use a little craft glue or your glue gun to tack the
ribbon in place).

You can glue some dried fruit, flowers, or other decorations on the
bow for a more decorative look. You can also put other things in the
jar besides potpourri. I've seen one half filled with white sugar
with a short white taper candle set down in the sugar. Very pretty!
And that one doesn't require the candle holder.

At Christmas you can purchase small ornaments and place them in the
jar instead of the potpourri.

Any small figurine would do--in the spring you could use little
bunnies. Maybe fill a jar with marbles or layers of colored sand.
Even pennies! Use your imagination. These candles make great gifts
and are also fun to make for yourself. If you get tired of one just
empty it out and start again!

Lehmans carries candlewax in both parafin and beeswax as well as
tube candle molds.

http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?
itemID=224&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=669&iSubCat=686&iProductID=224

(Sorry I didnt remember how to make a tiny uhl - maybe someone can
help me there?)

Once you get the idea for making these candles you will know how to
make a big block candle when you can find a mold big enough

Just so you are aware.. I do not recommend the synthetic scents in
candles and parafin is a petroleum product which is a known
carcinagen. Beware of wicks that have a metal lead center in
them.Petroleum is processed into motor oil, gasoline, kerosene,
diesel, heating oil and other fuels. One of the first items produced
when "cracking" petroleum is paraffin. This is essentially a toxic
waste product. In most industries, getting rid of toxic waste is
very expensive. Because petroleum waste can be made into paraffin,
plastic, etc., the oil industry profits handsomely from this waste
material.

When it was first discovered that petroleum could be made into
paraffin, there was no real awareness of the toxins and poisons. But
now, though numerous toxins and carcinogenic agents have been
identified and documented, companies continue to produce paraffin
candles and sell this toxin-laden product to an unsuspecting public.

IF you can find soybean wax this is a OG alternative. Also contact
your local beekeeper and ask about buying wax for candlemaking.

tenzicut

I used to love to do this when I was little. Dad rigged up a light 
bulb inside of a round cardboard vodka box (I think), with a small 
hole in the top to set the egg to candle. I remember seeing the baby 
bird moving or not moving and taking any of the ones that were dead 
or non-viable eggs (which were few) out of the incubator.

Eggs are candled to determine the condition of the air cell, yolk, 
and white. Candling detects bloody whites, blood spots, or meat 
spots, and enables observation of germ development. Candling is done 
in a darkened room with the egg held before a light. The light 
penetrates the egg and makes it possible to observe the inside of 
the egg. 
The candler should be set on a box or table at a convenient height 
(about 38 to 44 inches from the floor), so the light will not shine 
directly into the eyes of the operator. In candling, the egg is held 
in a slanting position with the large end against the hole in the 
candler. The egg is grasped by the small end and, while held between 
the thumb and tips of the first two fingers, is turned quickly to 
the right or left. This moves the contents of the egg and throws the 
yolk nearer the shell. Because of the color of their shells, brown 
eggs are more difficult to candle than white eggs. 

To do a reasonable job, an extensive knowledge of candling is not 
necessary, particularly if the eggs are all relatively fresh. One 
should be able to distinguish a fresh egg from a stale egg and 
detect such abnormalities as bloody whites, blood spots, meat spots, 
and cracked shells. In a fresh egg, the air space is plainly visible 
and moves freely. The white is thin and clear. In a stale egg, the 
air space is plainly visible and moves freely. The white is thin. 

Most newly laid eggs are good quality. Eggs not over two or three 
days old, if held under good conditions, will meet the 
specifications for Grade A. The only eggs to be removed by candling 
are those with bloody whites, blood or meat spots, and cracked 
shells. 

Incubated eggs are candled to determine whether they are fertile 
and, if fertile, to check the growth and development of the embryo. 
White eggs should be tested for fertility on the third day. Brown 
shelled eggs on the fifth or sixth day because it is difficult to 
see the embryo clearly before this time. 
A small reddish area with blood vessels extending away from it will 
be visible in fertile eggs. This is the embryo floating around 
inside the egg, looking like a huge red spider. If the embryo dies, 
the blood draws away from the embryo and forms what is called a 
blood ring. All clear eggs and eggs showing blood rings or streaks 
should be removed from the incubator. If eggs are not candled during 
the early stages of incubation, it will be difficult to determine 
whether the egg was fertile; embryos that die early soon decompose 
and are not easily distinguished from rotten eggs. 

Candle the eggs every few days to observe the growth and development 
of the embryo. Record findings to learn from.

tenzicut

Subj: {OHG} About Salt  
Date: 8/14/2003 5:57:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time 
From: backwaterjon@yahoo.com 


Canning salt is also sea salt.  Salt is formed (like limestone is) in 
the bottom of salt water.  The deeper the salt water is, the tighter 
and more compact becomes the salt (limestone too).

Mom always said that canning salt was purer than sea salt now is due 
to sewage being dumped into the sea: due to drums of chemicals then 
carried far out to sea and dumped: not to mention the ships back then 
using the open sea to dump their scraps and sewage.

She mentioned that air pollution wasn't as great when earth salt was 
formed at the bottom of the then oceans.  And that certain purer 
strains of minerals would have been in THAT salt that may now not be.

So.  When thinking about salt: don't rule out canning salt cause you 
think it ain't from the sea, cause it is.  

Jon-who knows most every scrap of land was covered by the oceans at 
one time or another.  

You can find fossils at the tippy top of all known mountains.  And 
it's the dead bodies of crustaceous plus the calcium from bones that 
formed and still is forming limestone, chalk, and ag lime.

Jon's trivia for today.

Cast Iron pans

I challenge you to go out by the end of the weekend and find (do you
have one stuck in the back of the cupboard or hanging on the wall as
a decoration?) or buy a cast iron frying pan and cook the following
recipe in it. They are the original non-stick pan and once you have
it well seasoned.. give your teflon pan away!

I bought a frying pan and a dutch oven for my bf for Christmas and
they are getting used daily and they are the best thing since sliced
bread.. honest!!

There are several reason that people rave about their cast-iron
cookware. Besides being an ideal heat conductor, cast iron heats
evenly and consistently, it is inexpensive and will last a lifetime
with proper care, and it is an old-fashioned way to cook fat free.
When well seasoned, a cast-iron pan will be stick resistent and
require no additional oil. The benefits of cast-iron pans are
terrific: Foods glide out of it as from no pan made with Teflon; it
goes from stove to oven; no special utensils are needed to cook in
it; it won't warp, and cleanup is a cinch. Teflon puts out toxic
chemicals when it is heated and has been known to kill housebirds.
http://www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/teflon4.htm Teflon and the
chemicals used in its production have grown into a $2 billion-a-year
industry. This includes ammonium perfluorooctanoate, known as C-8,
which has been linked to cancer, organ damage and other health
effects in tests on laboratory animals. Teflon is a member of a
family of chemicals called "perfluorochemicals" (PFCs). According to
the Environmental Working Group, the nonprofit advocacy organization
who initiated the breaking of the story, "PFCs virtually never
breaks down in the environment and has been found to contaminate
most of the US population, including 92 percent of children tested
to date." http://www.ewg.org/reports/pfcworld/

Professional chefs consider cast-iron pans to be precision cooking
tools, as these dependable pans enable precise control of cooking
temperatures. Their heat retention qualities allow for even cooking
temperature without hot spots.Cast-iron pans can be used on top of
the stove or to bake in the oven. All our grandmothers had cast iron
skillets and stove-top griddles. In fact, your grandmother swore by
it and the pioneers depended on it.

If you don't own a cast-iron skillet, it's well worth the time and
money to invest in one. You can find them for sale on the internet,
at cookstores everywhere, thrift stores, flea markets, or you can
scour the tag and yard sales for one that might look as if it has
seen better days. If the pan is rusty or encrusted with grease, buy
it anyway. Don't worry! I'll tell you how to get that new or old one
into shape so you can enjoy it for a lifetime of fat free cooking.
You'll be able to pass the pan on to your own children and
grandchildren.

The first most common mistake of why people do not like cast iron is
that they say everything sticks. If food sticks to your cast-iron
pan, your pan is not seasoned right and you need to re-season it.
Cast iron is a natural non-stick surface and if your pan is seasoned
correctly it WILL NOT stick. I PROMISE!

Skillet or Frying Pan: Choose the size most comfortable for you. I
recommend the 10-inch one, as it's the best tradeoff of size and
weight.

Griddle: Want to make the greatest pancakes you've ever eaten? Want
your French toast to have that crispy edge so prized at breakfast
time? You need to get a cast-iron griddle pan and get it good and
hot on the stovetop. They work fine on electric or gas ranges, or
over a campfire if you're so inclined. (My ...OK.. HIS.. cast iron
pan is just great at pancakes and french toast as well).

Dutch oven: Before anyone ever thought of a crock pot, there was the
cast-iron Dutch oven. Dutch ovens have been used for hundreds of
years. Nothing will hold a good, even temperature better than the
heavy metal of this monster pot, and it can go from stovetop to oven
without missing a beat. We cooked the best roast in it the other
night. *mmmmmmm*

Preheat your pan before preparing your meal. Water droplets should
sizzle, then roll and hop around the pan, when dropped onto the
heated surface. If the water disappears immediately after being
dropped, the pan is too hot. If water only rests and bubbles in the
pan, it is not quite hot enough. NOTE: Do not pour large amounts of
cold liquid into your hot skillet. This can cause the cast iron to
break. Never forget your potholders! Cast iron pan handles get HOT
when cooking!

There is a trick to maintaining cast iron cookware and that trick is
known as "seasoning." Your food will never stick to the bottom of
the skillet or pot if it is properly seasoned, and the cookware
cleans up easily as well. If the pan was not seasoned properly or a
portion of the seasoning wore off and food sticks to the surface or
there is rust, then it should be properly cleaned and re-seasoned.
Seasoning a cast iron pan is a natural way of creating non-stick
cookware. And, like you cook and clean the modern non-stick cookware
with special care to avoid scratching the surface, your cast iron
cookware wants some special attention too.

Clean the cookware while it is still hot by rinsing with hot water
and scraping when necessary. Do not use a scouring pad or soap
(detergent) as they will break down the pan's seasoning. I find that
the best way to thoroughly dry my cast-iron pans is to put them on
top of the burners. Depending on the condition of your pan, after
the pans are dry give them a light coat of oil to keep away the rust
and then place in the cupboard (I don't always do this). NEVER put
the utensil in the dishwasher or store it away without drying it
thoroughly.

If your food gets a metallic taste, or turns "black", it means one
of two things are wrong. Either your pot has not been sufficiently
seasoned, or you are leaving the food in the pot after it has been
cooked. Never store food in the cast iron pan as the acid in the
food will breakdown the seasoning and take on a metallic flavor.
Iron being a reactive metal, it has disadvantages in that acidic
foods (such as tomatoes, apple, vinegar) should not be cooked in it
for any length of time.

Store your cast iron cookware with the lids off, especially in humid
weather, because if covered, moisture can build up and cause rust.
Be sure that you place a couple paper towels inside to make sure
that any moisture that forms will be absorbed by the paper towel. If
your old or new cast iron pans gets light rust spots, scour the
rusty areas with steel wool, until all traces of rust are gone.
Wash, dry and repeat seasoning process.

When you purchase new cast iron cookware, they are medium gray in
color, but after using them, they start turning darker until they
are very black. This is normal and should be expected. Avoid buying
cast iron pans or skillets with wooden handles; these are useless
for oven cooking and most camp cooking. If the utensil comes with a
cast iron lid, e.g, a Dutch oven, cure the lid's inside the same as
the pot. Otherwise, use a glass lid or whatever you have.

How To Season A New Cast-Iron Pan:
The surfaces of a new cast-iron pan are porous and have microscopic
jagged peaks. You season a pan by rubbing it with oil (solid
vegetable shortening, bacon grease, or lard will work as well)
heating it for 30 to 60 minutes in a 300 degree oven, and then
letting it cool to room temperature. Repeating this process several
times is recommended as it will help create a stronger "seasoning"
bond.

The oil fills the cavities and becomes entrenched in them, as well
as rounding off the peaks. By seasoning a new pan, the cooking
surface develops a nonstick quality because the formerly jagged and
pitted surface becomes smooth. Also, because the pores are premeated
with oil, water cannot seep in and create rust that would give food
an off-flavor.

Important:
Unless you use your cast-iron pans daily, they should be washed
briefly with a little soapy water and then rinsed and thoroughly
dried in order to rid them of excess surface oil. If you do not do
this, the surplus oil will become rancid within a couple of days.
Ours, when we seasoned the new pan and dutch oven and lid.. SMOKED
UP the kitchen.. it was no big deal.. run fans.. just wanted you to
be aware.. it freaked us out at first.

Techniques for Restoring an old Cast-Iron Skillet
1. My (this is the author.. not me, tenzicut) existing cast-iron
pans came to me in bad condition (they were very old frying pans
from my mother and one from a rummage sale). My husband hand-sanded
them until smooth and removed the burnt coating and rust. I then
seasoned the pans. They are now my favorite frying pans and I
wouldn't trade or loan them to anyone! They are especially great
for "searing" meats and seafood.

2. Scour with a steel or copper pad and scouring powder. Wash with
soap and water, towel dry, and place in a hot oven for 30 minutes.
Reseason before using and it's ready.

Traditional Pineapple Upside-Down Cake
The upside-down cake, which was so popular in the '50s and '60s, is
again gaining in popularity. No wonder - it's still wonderful!
Use your cast-iron frying pan. The heavy pan keeps the butter from
burning, and the handle makes it easy to flip the cake upside down
when it is done.

Topping:
1/4 cup butter or margarine
2/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 (1-pound, 4 ounce) can sliced pineapple
Maraschino cherries
1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped nuts

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a 10-inch cast-iron frying pan ,
melt butter or margarine. Stir in brown sugar until blended. Remove
from heat. Drain pineapple, reserving 2 tablespoons syrup. Arrange
pineapple slices onto top of sugar mixture. Place a maraschino
cherry (is it possible to find maraschino cherry's that dont have
that BAD red dye?) center of each slice. Sprinkle with chopped nuts.

Cake:
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 free range OG egg, room temperature
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon (Frontier OG) vanilla extract

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add
egg, milk, and vegetable shortening; beat 2 minutes. Add reserved
pineapple syrup, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla extract; beat
2 minutes. Pour over pineapple slices in frying pan, spreading
evenly. Bake 40 to 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in
center comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool 5 minutes on a
wire rack. Run knife around edge of pan to loosen; cover with a cake
plate and invert. Serve warm.
Makes 8 servings.

tenzicut



Cats & chipmunks (and other critters)

From what I've heard in the past, cats have a one square
mile "roaming" territory. I would love to put locators on mine
during the day to see just where they all go. I've always looked at
it as if they were going to work. Most of them will have breakfast
in the morning and then they're off, doing their own thing. They
return late in the afternoon or evening, in time for dinner. Of
course, they sometimes bring their "work" home with them.

One cat is notorious for bringing in love offerings. She bops
through the dog door and then spits out a chipmunk or mouse, still
alive. If you watch her do it, it looks like she says "blah" as she
spits the thing out of her mouth and then goes the opposite
direction (usually in the direction of the food dish), leaving the
dogs to chase the little critter.

I have three westies that love nothing better than to chase the
little critters. They are very adept at sniffing, chasing, and
killing. No matter how hard I try to catch/trap the critters and
give them a second chance in the wild, it very rarely happens. A
couple of weeks ago one tough little chipmunk made it's way under my
kitchen cabinets and hid out for two days (I know this because the
dogs kept a 24 hour watch on the cabinet, noses to the baseboard).
I was sure we would have to cut a hole through the floor underneath
to take it's poor, lifeless little body out from under the cabinet.
But it decided to make a run for it and met its demise in the
bathroom. The latest victim led a merry chase through the house,
hiding first under one low to the ground chair and then the leather
couch. The dogs were having such a fit with this one, that I kept
having to lift the chair and couch in order for them to get
underneath. I didn't make it back to the couch soon enough though.
One of the dogs was in such a frenzy that it ripped a two inch
circle of leather off the front of the couch. Life was not pleasant
for a few minutes. (I haven't figured out how I'm going to patch
that one yet.)

And did you know that chipmunk tails shed their skin/fur if pulled
on? Found that one out one day as I was trying to pull a chipmunk
out of a crack between the old floorboards and baseboard. It held
on tight as I tugged carefully, trying not to hurt it. Imagine my
shock when the poor little thing's tail let loose! That particular
chippy bounded back underneath the armoir and then jumped straight
up through the dog cage into the middle of a roll of paper towels
that was sitting on top. An easy save, that one. I felt bad,
though, as it ran away with a bare little white bony tail.

You would think that the chippy population in our woods would
diminish over time, but since the cats roam so far, they have an
indefinite number to hunt and bring into my house. *sigh*

Misty
(In the general vicinity of) Smack dab in the middle of Lower
Michigan ;o)
From:    "mistyhathon" <joelmisty@msn.com> 
Date:  Sat Jul 10, 2004  10:50 pm 
Subject:  Cats & chipmunks (and other critters)

Tue, 11 Jun 2002
Wrom: SHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWO
Subject: I Dare Ya.. Phase I
I was thinking about this on the way to work this morning.
I want to see how many people are game enough to take me up on my dare. Yes, it 
ties into Organic Gardening and it wont cost very much moola.
I dare you all to make 2 cheeses before Sunday.
You need very little items and you may already have them in your home.
You need 2 old Tshirts or Tshirt type material that is clean and no holes, a 
piece of yarn, a collander, 2 pots that will allow one to sit inside the other, 
2 quarts (half gallon /2 liters-ish). 2 lemons or lemon juice concentrate, a bit 
of dillweed, a bit of chopped garlic and a bit of sea salt and 1/4 cup of white 
vinegar, a bowl and a thermometer that will register up to 208F.
I want to prove how easy and delicious this is and that most people think it is 
too difficult or time consuming.
The 1st cheese....
Lemon Cheese
This is a quick and easy cheese to make and can be used as a cheese spread.
Warm 1/2 gallon of milk to 150 degrees F. Stir often to avoid scorching the 
milk. (nest the 2 pots. Put water in the bottom one, milk in the top one) Add 
the juice of two lemons to the milk. Stir and allow to set off the stove for 15 
minutes.
The warm milk will separate into a stringy curd and a greenish liquid whey. Line 
a colander with cheesecloth and pour the curds and whey into the colander that 
is set over a bowl big enough to hold the whey. Save the whey. Tie four corners 
of the cheesecloth into a knot and hang the bag of curds to drain for an hour or 
until it stops dripping. I leave it overnight.
Remove the cheese from the cloth and place it in a bowl. Add salt to taste -- 
usually about 1/4 teaspoon. You may mix in herbs. Fresh dill leaves and a garlic 
clove are delicious. Place the cheese in acovered container and store in the 
refrigerator. This cheese will keep up to a week. It is a moist spreadable 
cheese with a hint of lemon taste.


After the whey stops draining ( not dripping.. but draining in a stream ) from 
the Lemon cheese put it back into the same pot that the lemon cheese was cooked 
in. You can add up to a gallon more milk to have a higher yield of the next 
cheese. The next cheese is Ricotta. I HATE storebought grody ricotta. This 
ricotta is a dry ricotta that is awesome over pasta or in homemade ravioli.
Heat the milk in the nested pots of double boiler to 208F and then put in 1/4 
cup of white vinegar. Stir. Let sit 3 mins and then dump into a cheesecloth (or 
tshirt) lined collander. Roll the cheese in the shirt or REAL cheesecloth until 
it hs no more obvious liquid in it. Put into a bowl and add dillweed and garlic 
of whatever spices
you like as well as a tidge of sea salt. Mix. Use on pasta, in ravioli, in 
lasagna.
Any takers???
tenzicut


Seed Saving: Cilantro

Cilantro will bolt and go to seed very early. Pull and compost those 
early on plants that bolt, don't save seed from them.

Cilantro will cross pollinate with other varieties of cilantro and 
must be seperated by 1/2 mile. Seeds can be harvested when they are 
dry on the plant. Last year I got over 1,000 seeds from 33 plants.

Store in a paper bag in a glass jar kept in a cool, dry dark place

tenzicut
Date: 2/6/2003 8:31:21 AM Eastern Standard Time 
From: katlady53@earthlink.net   (Lynne)

I've been lurking for a while and have found   this list  definitely 
interesting and informative<me admit I have learned something ,sure, right 
really >/  But I find myself with a series of questions . Guess I better start 
out asking question number 1.  Does anyone have any bright ideas on improving 
a "clay "based type of backyard, near my house where I have started a garden 
and small herb agarden.  The herbs seem to do sorta all right.  Tomatoes sorta 
do all right, not great but never get over 2 feet tall.  green peppers ditto . 
this house used to have a coal stove and they threw the ashes out into the 
back.<seen evidence of that>.  I did for 2 years cover that area with dried 
leaves and then till them u;nder in the spring<which WILL, as usual, be here by 
middle of March Yay!!!.  haven't really noticed much imnprovement.

Again, does anyone have ANY  great ideas on improving the soil that I am 
trying to use.
***************************************************************************
Date: 2/6/2003 10:12:31 AM Eastern Standard Time 
From: thornkell@charter.net (Cynthia)

Dig in some wood chips..not the nice mulch stuff, that's expensive.  
The coarse free stuff dumped by yard companies and the city.  It will 
decompose slowly, and help to keep the soil from compacting.  Leaves 
leaves and more leaves are a great amend ment EVERY year.  Don't 
stop.  It takes quite a bit to actually improve bad soil, but very 
they are invaluable in keeping soil good once you've acheived it.  
Cover crops can add TONS of humus. Buckwheat, Oats, Pease, Sudan 
Grass, clover, vetch, daikon radish, Alfalfa, rye...all these can be 
planted, tilled or cut down when they are about to flower, and 
planted again.  After one year of using cover crops, you should have 
PLENTY of tilth.  Then just minor upkeep every year, adding compost, 
leaves, etc...should do just fine.  The more rotting organic matter 
in the soil, the more worms will come.  The more worms, the more 
nutrition and good drainage you will have.

***************************************************************************
Date: 2/6/2003 3:46:04 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: katlady53@earthlink.net (Lynne)

Thanks a mint so to speak.  At this point in time I needed the advice to also 
"lighten" up the clayish soil.  Still can't get used to the reddnes of it. 
In time though will.....  The lady across the street and I are going to also 
try doing a ga rden next to her house. Hers isn't as old as this house (built 
in the mid 1920s) so hopefully won't have all that coal ash in it.  
Again thanks for the advice.

***************************************************************************
Date: 2/7/2003 4:43:55 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: thornkell@charter.net (Cynthia)

You might try planting a nice under cover cover crop...like a nice 
low clover...white clover, for isntance.  You can plant your other 
plants right in with it.  Red clover is really good for tons of 
humus, too.  Mowing is a very good idea, some of the plants will die 
back if mowed, but that's all right, you can just plant right in the 
shredded stuff and go again.  What you might want to do is plow up a 
larger area than you intend to plant.  Work in some wood chips at the 
same time.  Then plant the whole area in cover crops.  Mow it down 
and plant half of it in cover crops AGAIN, while the rest gets 
planted with your garden.  Keep the one half in cover crops, rotating 
them to get the best variety of nutrients in the soil, and then next 
year plant THAT side of the garden, while improving the first side.  
Also, some plants like pease, daikon radish, tyfon, etc...are cover 
crops which improve the soil at the same time as producing food.  So 
you can just harvest them, then mow them down, and replant

================================================= 
Cold Weather, pet peeves, cats and hypothermic goats

I have had a long day....

As some of you know I am a vet tech for a mixed animal practice.. I
have been planning my gripes all day.. here they are..

* In this cold weather.. check your livestock, pets, any animals
that are outside 2-3 times a day.. make sure they have open unfrozen
water and access to it at all times. Check everyone and make sure
that they are eating and drinking and have proper shelter to get out
of the wind and the weather.. it doesnt have to be heated. A 3 sided
shed away from prevailing winds is usually adequate. We had to deal
with many animals at work today with severe dehyration as they have
not had access to water in the last few days. Even try to put water
out for the wild birds a few times a day. If you have calves or
lambs/kids to be born soon, make sure you check MULTIPLE times a day
and you have a warm stall to take them to if there is any problems..
that you have colostrun you can heat up and learn how to tube
PROPERLY!.. have a stash of old blackets and towels you can pop into
the dryer to warm animals with. 2 liter bottles you can fill with
hottish water to slide between the back legs near the femural artery
to warm the animal faster.

* If you have an animal off feed and listless.. TAKE ITS
TEMPERATURE.. you have a thermometer if you have animals, right?
Know the temp for your livestock species.. is the temp low? We had a
goat that was listless, was not eating...the temp on her goat was
97F.. it ought to have been 101-103F.. it was hypothermic.. I had
her bring it into her house and warm it up for a few hours.. get
some feed into it and put it in her stall bedded down with lots of
hay (we dont have straw in this country-honest) and put a vest on
the goat with a fleecy wool on the inside to help maintain body
temperature..

* Spay and neuter your pets.. even if they are 'merely barn cats'..
at this point.. I almost advocate the rubber boot and pocketknife
method.. (dont though).. I had to euthanize 6 cats today.. a litter
of a mom cat and her 4 kittens that were now 4.5 months old and had
been on the waiting list at the SPCA to be taken in since the
kittens were 7 weeks old. Before you hate the woman who brought them
in, they were strays that showed up at her house and didnt leave
after the kittens were born.. and I know for a fact that she tried
what she could to find homes for them and tried to get the SPCA to
take them.. The other cat was a cat the lady could no longer keep
and it was a registered Silver Persian.. she also couldnt find a
home for it and the SPCA could not take it either.

* Meaning to stress this again.. water is an animals most important
and cheapest FEED. They will drink without eating, but they will not
eat without drinking. Just as they need water in hot weather, they
need it in the winter to make their "thermostadt" work properly. If
it freezes.. water for 20 mins in the morning.. again at noon and
again before bedtime.. in the case of my rabbit crocks.. I ket them
have water 15 mins 3x a day and when the 15 mins were up I dumped
the water into a waste bucket.

* Watch out for frostbite.. we had a cat who came in for another
problem today, but last year it got its ears frostbit off.. it had
NO ears.. it is common for it to happen to baby calves here too..
they actually have 'calf hats' to protect ears. Watch all your
animals for the 1st sign of distress. In this cold weather it is a
killer.

tenzicutComfrey Cream

8 oz beeswax, grated
2 oz vitamin E Oil
12 c olive oil
2 oz dried nettles, powdered
1 oz dried comfrey, chopped
1 oz dried lavender flowers
6 to 10 marigold (calendula) heads, crumbled

Chop or grate 8 oz beeswax into a heavy bottom pan
or double boiler on low heat. Add 2 oz. Vitamin E
(a natural preservative) and 12  cup olive oil and
stir till melted.  stir in one half oz. dried,
powdered nettles, 2 oz. dried chopped comfrey, one oz.
dried lavender flowers, 6-10 marigold heads, crumbled,
and let the brew sit quietly for an hour or so,
stirring often, on the lowest heat setting possible.

Prepare to strain the mixture: use a large mixing bowl,
and in it set a triple thickness of cheesecloth. you
may need to have someone help with this part, it really
is a pain if the cheesecloth slips down into the hot
herbal wax. try to cover the whole bowl, with some left
over to hang down the sides, as this will become your
handles. Pour the wax mixture into the cheesecloth. pull
up the sides of the cheesecloth and strain the herbs out.
Give it a firm squeeze and get all of the lingering
goodness out of the spent herbs. Discard old herbs.

Now comes the challenge: is it the right firmness? Pour
the strained mix into a clean pan, and allow to cool.
Using your finger, rub the surface of the balm. it
should feel like a (think Noxzema) night cream, firm,
but with a creamy give. If it is too soft, reheat and
add another Oz. of chopped beeswax, then allow to cool
and test for the firmness again. . Likewise, if it is too
hard, re-heat and add another half cup of olive oil.
This can be an all day project. Remember that it will become
more firm as it ages too. When you find the right consistency,
heat and pour into a clean dry lidded container.
Yogurt containers are great for this purpose, or small wide-mouth
canning jars. Label and store in a cool place. this recipe
makes a lot of balm. you could easily half or even quarter it.

Use this on scrapes, cuts, dry skin, chapped lips, cracked 
cuticles, sunburn, and just about any mild skin complaint.

Short Cut:
It will save the straining part of your operation.
We have been talking about medicinal oils. You can make
medicinal oil by the method(s) talked about in earlier posts.
Then heat the oil in a double boiler, add beeswax (approximately
1/4 by volume of beeswax to oil). When the wax is melted you
can test for firmness by dipping a teaspoon in the melted salve
and put it in the refrigerator or freezer for a minute. Take
it out and test for firmness. If too thin add additional
amount of wax. At this point a few drops of essential oil of your
choice can be added giving both a pleasant smell and additional
medicinal properties. Caution: Add the essential oil at the last
possible minute B some essential oils lose their potency
with heat. Your salve is ready to be poured into
containers. Wide mouth, straight-sided ones are best.
Companion Plantings and Pesticide recipes

With many recipes and ways to drive those pests over to visit with 
your neighbors. Yu might want to use companion planting, and trap 
crops, which also work and can add beauty to your yard and gardens as 
well.

APHIDS:
To keep aphids and other pests off: Finely chop
1 onion 
2 medium cloves of garlic

Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on 
high. Strain out pulp. Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine 
mist on rose bushes, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of 
leaves.
(see beneficial insects)

ALUMINUM FOIL "FOILS" APHIDS

Use an aluminum foil mulch around the base of plants such as 
tomatoes. The reflection confuses the insects and drives them away.

SPIDER MITES:
Combine 1/2 cup buttermilk, 4 cups wheat flour and 5 gallons water. 
Suffocates spider mites and other mites.

MEALYBUGS:
Apply rubbing alcohol to insect clusters with cotton swab. Wash with
insecticidal soap and rinse. Isolate infected plant if possible.

CABBAGE WORMS:
Sprinkle flour on developing cabbage heads. The flour swells up 
inside the worms and bursts their intestines.

SLUGS:
Sprinkle salt directly onto slug. They shrivel up and die. 
Place shallow bowl of beer on the ground near slug trails and leave 
overnight. Copper wire? Coil a piece of wire around the base of your 
plants to give slugs a shocking experience. They won't come back.

GENERAL INSECT REPELLENT:
To help protect flowers, vegetables and shrubs from insects attacks. 

Recipe 1:

1/2 cup dead insects 
2 cups water

When insects infest flowers, vegetables or shrubs, identify and 
gather the pests. Collect at least 1/2 cupful. Place in an old 
blender with the water. Blend on high, and then strain out the pulp 
using a cheesecloth or fine sieve. Dilute at a rate of 1/4 cup to 1 
cup of water. Pour liquid into a spray bottle and apply to plants. 
Will keep up to a year, stored in a tightly sealed container. 

Recipe 2:

3 hot green peppers (canned or fresh) 
2 or 3 cloves garlic 
3/4 tsp liquid soap 
3 cups raw water

Puree the peppers and garlic cloves in a blender. Pour into a spray 
bottle and add the liquid soap and water. Let stand 24 hours. Strain 
out pulp and spray onto infested plants, making sure to coat both 
tops and bottoms of leaves. 

CAUTION: Always test any new insecticide on a few small leaves before 
starting a full-scale application.

NATURE'S INSECTICIDES

Basil: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Plant with 
asparagus to increase vigor. Plant near compost pile to keep insects 
away. Plant around doors and windows to keep insects away. DO NOT 
plant with Rue.

Bay Leaf: A fresh bay leaf in storage containers of beans or grains 
will deter weevils and moths.

Borage: Plant with tomatoes, squash, and strawberries to deter horn 
worms and black flea beetles. Also attracts honeybees. Plant as close 
as possible to compost pile; adds potassium, calcium, and other 
minerals when decomposing.

Caraway: Good for loosening compacted soil.

Catnip: Deters flea beetles.

Chamomile: Improves flavor of cabbage and onions. Also promotes 
growth in nearby plants.

Chervil: Improves growth and flavor of radishes.

Dill: Improves growth and health of cabbages. DO NOT plant with 
carrots or tomatoes.

Fennel: DO NOT plant in garden for any reason. Plant separately, 
plant coriander with it to prevent seeds from setting. Attracts bees.

Garlic: Plant with roses, raspberries, and lettuce to repel aphids 
and Japanese beetles. Also repels blight from potatoes and tomatoes, 
flea beetles from potatoes, red spiders from tomatoes, and green 
lopers from cabbage. DO NOT plant near peas.

Horseradish: Plant near potatoes to repel potato bugs. Also at the 
base of fruit trees to fight fruit rot.

Hyssop: Plant with grapevines to increase grape yield. DO NOT plant 
with radishes.

Lovage: Plant with any plant; improves health of all vegetables.

Marjoram: Plant with any plant; improves flavor and health.

Mint: Plant with tomatoes and cabbage to improve health. Also repels 
cabbageworm; black flea beetles from radishes; hornworm from 
tomatoes; ants from almost everything.

Parsley: Plant with roses to repel rose beetles; Mix with carrot 
seeds to repel carrot flies; Attracts bees second year if allowed to 
flower.

Rosemary: Plant with cabbage, beans, and carrots to improve overall 
health.

Sage: Repels cabbageworm, and white cabbage butterfly. Also repels 
carrot flies. DO NOT plant near cucumbers.

Southernwood: Plant near cabbage to repel cabbagemoths; also dried 
leaves repel ants.

Savory: Plant with beans and onions to improve flavor; repels cabbage 
moths, hornworms, and black flea beetles.

Tansy: Plant with blackberries, grapes, raspberries, and roses; 
repels cane borers. Also repels flying insects, Japanese beetles, 
striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, cabbageworms, cabbage 
butterfly, and ants.

Thyme: Deters cabbage butterfly and cabbageworms.

Valerian: Plant anywhere in the garden to attract earthworms.

Yarrow: Plant with any other herb to increase the oils in that herb. 
Also good with any vegetable.

Sugar Ant Hotel More Pest Control Solutions 
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels 
The ants go marching one by one into this homemade sugar ant hotel. I 
make three to six of them every ant season, place a few in the 
kitchen, and wherever else ants like to frequent. There are a number 
of herbs such as mint and pennyroyal, and spices such as cayenne 
pepper, that repel ants, but I've never had to do much more than make 
these ant-trap hotels to rid our house of these common spring and 
summer pests. 

Simple Solution: 
Sugar Ant Hotel

a.. 1 cup borax 
b.. 1 cup sugar water 
c.. 4 shallow glass jars with screw tops (small jar of marinated 
artichoke heart jars are ideal) 
d.. 4 loose wads of toilet paper 

In a bowl, mix the borax and sugar. Place a loose wad of toilet paper 
into each of four different screw-top jars. Pour a quarter of the 
sugar and borax mixture into each of the four jars, over the toilet 
paper. Fill each jar with water to one inch of the top. Screw the 
lids on the jars, and with a hammer and nail, make four to eight 
holes in the lid. Place the jars in areas where you have ants (but 
keep away from pets and children). 

Helpful Hints: 
This ant trap will catch the workers but not the queen. A more 
comprehensive solution is to blend 1/4 cup of confectioner's sugar 
and one tablespoon of borax and sprinkle it in ant traffic areas. 
There is not enough borax with this method to kill the worker ants 
immediately, so they take it back to the nest, ultimately eradicating 
it. (If the worker ants do die at the powder, cut back on the borax.) 

Caution: Keep borax products away from pets and other animals.

This is a start to get you on the right track to a more healthful and 
productive garden and orchard.

Jon Wood-Master Gardener, and Organic Homesteader


Companions in the garden

Asparagus: parsley and tomato--avoid with onion
Bean: anything but onion
Beet: cabbage, kohlrabi--avoid with runner bean
Broccoli: bean, celery, dill--avoid with lettuce, strawberry, tomato
Brussels sprouts: hyssop, mint sage, rosemary--avoid strawberry
Cabbage: bean, beet, celery, dill--avoid grape, strawberry , tomato
Carrot: bean, leek, onion, pea--avoid dill
Cauliflower: bean, beet, celery, mint--avoid strawberry, tomato
Celery: bean, cabbage, leek, onion, tomato
Corn: morning glory, bean, lupine, melon, pea, squash
Cucumber: bean, broccoli, celery, radish, pea, lettuce--avoid rue and sage
Eggplant: pea, tarragon, thyme
Horseradish: potato
Kohlrabi: beet, onion--avoid with beans and peppers
Leek: carrot, celery--avoid broad bean, broccoli
Lettuce: beet, cabbage, pea, radish, strawberry
Melon: corn, peanut, sunflower
Onion: beet, cabbage, carrot, lettuce, strawberry--avoid peas and beans
African Marigold (tagetes erecta) reduces nematodes
Anise (Pimpinella anisum)     deters aphids, fleas, cabbage worms
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) variety of pests
Bean (Phaseolus)  reduces corn armyworms
Borage (Borage officinalis) Japanese beetles, tomato hornworms
Broccoli (Brassica oleacea) reduces striped cucumber beetles
Carrot (Daucus carota)  deters onion flies
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)  deters ants, aphids and many more
Celery (Apium graveolens) deters cabbage butterflies
Chive (Allium schoenoprassum) black spot on roses, fruit tree insect
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) deters Colorado beetles
Corn (Zea mays) reduces striped cucumber beetle
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) repels Colorado beetles
Dill (Anthum graveolens) repels aphids and spider mites
Eucalyptus    in general an insect repellent
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)deters aphids
French Marigold (Tagetes patula) deters Mexican bean beetles;nematodes.
Garlic (Allium sativum) Japanese beetle; in general an insect repellent
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) repels flea beetles, insect larvae
Lavender Cotton (Santolina charmaecyparissus) deters corn wireworms,
southern root worm
Leek  (Allium ampeloprasum)    deters carrot flies
Marigold (Tagetes)         deters nematodes, cabbage pests
Milkweed (Asclepias)    deters aphids/ attracts butterflies
Mustard (Brassica nigra)        reduces aphids
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)     A trap crop for aphids
Onion  (Allium cepa)      deters Colorado beetles, carrot fly
Petunia            squash and potato bug; bean beetle
Pot Marigold  (Calendula officinalis) asparagus beetle, tomato hornworm.
Potato  (Solanum tuberosum)  deters Mexican bean beetles,
Radish (Raphanus sativus)  cucumber beetle, root fly, many others.
Rue  (Ruta graveolens)     deters beetles and fleas
Rosemary  (Rosemarinus officinalis) bean beetle, cabbage moth andothers.
Sage  (Salvia officinalis) cabbage worm, cabbage moth, root maggot.
Savory  (Satureja)  deters Mexican bean beetles
Southernwood  (Artemesia abrotanum) deters cabbage moth, carrot flies
Soybean  ((Glycine max) deters corn earworm, corn borers
Tansy  (Tanecetum vulgare)ants, aphids, beetles, cabbage worm.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)  cabbage pests and whitefly
Tomato  (Lycoperiscon lycoperiscum) loppers, flea beetles, white fly on cabbage
Wormwood (Artemisia) rodents, slug, snail and many more.



COMPOST KEEPS PILING UP

Compost is the key to a successful garden. Whether you have decent top soil,
nasty clay or sand, compost is the best way to enrich and maintain your garden
soil.

Composting is basically the process of mixing carbon (like fallen leaves),
and nitrogen (such as green lawn clippings) at the proper ratio, building a
large enough pile, then monitoring moisture and temperature levels. While
large-scale composting is something of an art, starting out is easy enough.
Simply
collect yard wastes such as fallen leaves, grass clippings, weeds and garden
plant remains. You can also collect kitchen scraps such as vegetable leftovers,
egg shells and coffee grounds. Do NOT include meat, bones or fatty foods such as

cheese, salad dressing and cooking oil. To compost outdoors in your yard,
combine all these items in a well-ventilated composting bin. Water and turn them

over with a pitchfork regularly. If you live in an apartment or town-home with
limited space, you can still compost by keeping a worm bin under your kitchen
sink.

For fast, thorough decomposition, and a rich finished product, add hungry
redworms to your compost pile! Redworms digest raw organic material and produce
their weight in castings every day. They even work in an indoor composting box,
turning kitchen scraps into compost.
From:   Teale765@aol.com 


From:   Deanna L Ramage <dramage@juno.com> 
Date:  Mon Apr 21, 2003  3:42 pm
Subject:  Re: {OHG}composters

What kind of materials do you have to compost, Tracie and what do you
want to use the compost for?
There are lots of different methods and lots of different composters on
the market and some that you can build, easily, yourself. There are a few
things to remember to make compost work quickly and efficiently in 1 to 3
months.
1. Aeration Turn the compost every 3 days.
2. Moisture level 45 - 60 percent, consistency of a wrung out sponge
3. Volume 3'x3'x3'
4. Particle size 1-2" diameter at largest point
5. Carbon:Nitrogen ratio 30:1 C:N or browns and greens or 1:1 by volume
Turning the pile every 3 days will cause it to decompose quickly, but
turning it more often will slow it down because fungi and aminomycdetes
populations can't grow quickly enough to do their job.
Moisture allows the working microbes to move through the pile and enables
the microbes to function.
Volume is important because the pile grows hotter in the middle and needs
to be insulated by the pile. Also a huge pile is really hard to turn.
Particle size - well a tree stump will take 20+ years to decompose but
grass clippings may disappear in 24 hours. 1-2" is really the best size.
Smaller than that and the pile may compact making it harder for the
microbes to work.
C:N Ratio. If this is balances, 30:1 or 1:1 by volume things will happen
much more quickly.
All the above is the ideal, but you can work with what you have. Some
folks use a pile - me for instance- and others get the ready made item. 
They all work if you work to follow the above steps.
You might check with your County Extension Office. That's where I found
out about the Master Composter/Recycler course, which I'm taking right
now.
Another good idea is to find out about Vermiculture and I know there are
folks here that can tell you about that. Makes great stuff for the 
garden.
Deanna
 
From:  "mistyhathon" <joelmisty@msn.com> 
Date:  Mon Feb 16, 2004  10:11 pm
Subject:  Composting ideas & rules

My desire to produce mass amounts of compost this year is prompted
by the fact that I sit on massive amounts of sand. (Michigan is a
sandy peninsula, after all.) A few years ago I tried growing
tomatoes, but they didn't grow at all. And being a busy person, I
didn't try again...I let my folks give me their excess garden
produce. But now I am in the mood to grow things again. And I
don't seem to be one who does anything in small amounts. Hence the
giant compost pile plan!

My in-laws have horses and we "inherit" horse manure in the spring.
Two years ago the first load was delivered and I let it age for a
year before we used it for the first time last summer. I talked my
equally busy husband into helping me till up a small plot so we
could plant 60 pine tree seedlings (an experiment, of course!). We
tilled in the aged manure compost and then dressed the top with it
as well. Imagine our surprise when those seedlings survived and
grew last summer! We lost only a few from drought (yes, I watered)
and a few from cat urine (caught the cat in the act, the dirty
scoundrel!). This winter, though, the deer found douglas
fir "candy" and topped half of my plot before I put up a fence.
Anyway...

My second load of horse manure compost is wintering over and I plan
to get more fresh stuff in the spring. This spring the
plan "springs" into action! I had been interested in learning more
regarding the best way to produce compost when a book in a "free"
pile at a farm auction this summer plopped into my lap. What a find
just when I was looking for the answers! (I do have a small 4' x 4'
fence where I deposit all my pulled weeds, but that wasn't the
answer I was looking for.) So I actively started "collecting"
materials for the compost pile. Even though I live in the middle of
a woods, I never rake the leaves here. They all blow away (imagine
that!). So I did the next best thing. When I drove into town last
fall, I noticed that all those people who live on their tiny city
lots and suburban streets buy paper bags from the city and rake
their leaves and twigs and then set them out next to the street for
trash pickup. I figured that if they went to all that trouble to
collect all that wonderful compost material, why shouldn't I help
them by picking it up and taking it home for my compost pile? They
were more than happy to relinquish their "trash" and I was ecstatic
to collect truck loads of "treasure". My busy husband started
rolling his eyes every time I rolled into the yard with another
truck load of leaf bags.

"The Complete Book of Composting" by J.I. Rodale is at least two
inches thick and full of all kinds of test results and stuff. But
here's the bottom line....a basic compost pile is built like this:
Plan a compost pile 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet tall.
Spread brush on the ground for air. On top of the brush, spread 6
inches of "green" material (leaves, weeds, vegetable garbage, etc).
On top of the "green" layer, spread 2 inches of fresh manure (from
vegetation eating animals only). On top of the manure, spread
a "sprinkling" of soil. Continue layering until the pile reaches at
least 4 feet tall. The pile will start "working" and within a few
days will reach a temp of over 100 degrees. This will kill all the
bad organisms that may have been present and will break everything
down. The pile will collapse upon itself and shrink down to about 2
feet tall. After two weeks, turn the pile so that what is on the
bottom is now on the top and let sit again for another two weeks.
By the end of the month, you'll have usable compost.

The book gave all kinds of suggestions as to what you can use in the
pile to produce compost (seaweed, hair, bone meal, sawdust...and the
list goes on). I made a deal with the local barber shop to take
their hair once in a while. "Hair, in comon with wool and silk, has
a high nitrogen content. If the sweepings from a barber shop were
regularly applied to a compost heap, an enormous amount of nitrogen
could be saved, since 6 to 7 pounds of hair contain a pound of
nitrogen or as much as 100 to 200 pounds of manure. If kept in a
well moistened heap, hair will disintegrate as easily as
feathers." "The chemical constituents of human hair are nitrogen,
hydrogen, oxygen, carbon and sulphur, approximately the same as bone
meal which is a popular rose food."

I think I'm going to have a great time composting this year...and
proving to my busy husband that that giant pile of leaf filled paper
bags overwintering in the yard will turn into something black and
beautiful and useful.

Misty




Composting
Gardeners have used compost for centuries. When materials such as leaves and 
grass clippings are composted, a microbial process converts plant wastes to a 
more usable organic amendment. Many homeowners may find it convenient and 
economical to compost these materials in their own backyards. In either case, 
the finished compost can be used as a soil amendment or mulch to improve most 
soils for gardens, landscape beds, lawn preparation or even as 15% of a potting 
medium. 

Decomposition of organic material in the compost pile is dependent on 
maintaining microbial activity. Any factor which slows or halts microbial growth 
will also impede the composting process. Efficient decomposition will occur if 
the following factors are used to their fullest advantage. 

AERATION: Oxygen is required for microbes to efficiently decompose the organic 
wastes. Some decomposition will occur in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic 
conditions); however, the process is slow and foul odors may develop. Because of 
the odor problem, composting without oxygen is not recommended in a residential 
setting unless the process is conducted in a fully closed system. Turning the 
pile once or twice a month will provide the necessary oxygen and significantly 
hasten the composting process. A pile that is not mixed may take three to four 
times longer before it can be used. A well mixed compost pile will also reach 
higher temperatures which will help destroy weed seeds and pathogens. 

MOISTURE: Adequate moisture is essential for microbial activity. A dry compost 
pile will not decompose efficiently. If rainfall is limited, it will be 
necessary to water the pile periodically to maintain a steady decomposition 
rate. Enough water should be added to completely moisten the pile, but 
overwatering should be avoided. Excess water can lead to anaerobic conditions. 
Water the pile so that it is damp, but does not remain soggy. The compost will 
be within the right moisture range if a few drops of water can be squeezed from 
a handful of material. If no water can be squeezed out, the material is too dry. 
If water gushes from your hand, it is too wet. 

PARTICLE SIZE: The smaller the size of organic wastes, the faster the compost 
will be ready for use. Smaller particles have much more surface area that can be 
attacked by microbes. A shredder can be used before putting material in the 
pile, and is essential if brush or sticks are to be composted. A low cost method 
of reducing the size of fallen tree leaves is to mow the lawn before raking or 
run the lawn mower over leaf piles after raking. Raked piles should be checked 
to insure that they do not contain sticks or rocks which could cause injury 
during operation of the mower. If the mower has an appropriate bag attachment, 
the shredded leaves can be collected directly. In addition to speeding up the 
composting process, shredding will initially reduce the volume of the compost 
pile. 

FERTILIZER AND LIME: Microbial activity is affected by the carbon to nitrogen 
ratio of the organic waste. Because microbes require a certain amount of 
nitrogen for their own metabolism and growth, a shortage of nitrogen will slow 
down the composting process considerably. Materials high in carbon relative to 
nitrogen such as straw or sawdust will decompose very slowly unless nitrogen 
fertilizer is added. Tree leaves are higher in nitrogen than straw or sawdust 
but decomposition of leaves would still benefit from an addition of nitrogen 
fertilizer or components high in nitrogen. Grass clippings are generally high in 
nitrogen and when mixed properly with leaves will enhance decomposition. Poultry 
litter, manure or blood meal can be used as organic sources of nitrogen. 
Otherwise, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen analysis (10-30%) should be used. 
Other nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium are usually present in adequate 
amounts for decomposition. 

During the initial states of decomposition organic acids are produced, 
decreasing the pH. In the past, small amounts of lime have been suggested for 
maintaining and enhancing microbial activity at this time. However, high rates 
of lime will convert ammonium nitrogen to ammonia gas which will lead to the 
loss of nitrogen from the pile. Research indicated that lime additions may 
hasten decomposition; however, the loss of nitrogen from the pile often offsets 
the benefits of lime. In general, lime is not necessary for degradation of most 
yard wastes. The pH of finished compost is usually alkaline (pH = 7.1-7.5) 
without the addition of lime. If large quantities of pine needles, pine bark, or 
vegetable and fruit wastes are composted, additional lime may be necessary. 

Many organic materials are suitable for composting. Yard wastes, such as leaves, 
grass clippings, straw, and non woody plant trimmings can be composted. Leaves 
are the dominant organic waste in most backyard compost piles. Grass clippings 
can be composted; however, with proper lawn management, clippings do not need to 
be removed from the lawn. If clippings are used, it is advisable to mix hem with 
other yard wastes, otherwise the grass clippings may compact and restrict 
airflow. Branches and twigs greater than 1/4 inch in diameter should be put 
through a shredder/chipper. Kitchen wastes such as vegetable scraps, coffee 
grounds, and eggshells may also be added. 

Sawdust may be added in moderate amounts if additional nitrogen is applied. 
Approximately 1 lb. of actual nitrogen (6 cups of ammonium nitrate) is required 
for 100 lbs. of dry sawdust. Wood ashes act as a lime source and if used should 
only be added in small amounts (no more than 1 cup per bushel or 10 pounds per 
ton of compost). Ordinary black and white newspaper can be composted; however, 
the nitrogen content is low and will consequently slow down the rate of 
decomposition. If paper is composted, it should not be more than 10% of the 
total weight of the material in the compost pile. 

Examples of other organic materials that can be used to add nutrients to the 
pile include: blood meal, bone meal, livestock manure, non-woody clippings, 
vegetable and flower garden refuse, hay, straw and lake plants. Livestock manure 
and poultry litter are nitrogen sources for composting. Approximately 100 pounds 
of poultry litter will provide 1.8 pounds of nitrogen. 

Some materials may pose a health hazard or create a nuisance and therefore 
should not be used to make compost. Adding human or pet feces cannot be 
recommended because they may transmit diseases. Meat, bones, grease, whole eggs, 
and dairy products should not be added because they can attract rodents to the 
site. Most plant disease organisms and weed seeds are destroyed during the 
composting process when temperatures in the center of the pile reach 150-160 F. 

Although plants that have been treated with herbicides or pesticides should be 
avoided for composting, small amounts of herbicide-treated plants (e.g., grass 
clippings) may be mixed in the pile as long as one is careful to allow thorough 
decomposition. Ideally, clippings from lawns recently treated with herbicides 
should be left on the lawn to decompose. 

Use of plastic garbage bags is perhaps the simplest way to make compost. The 
bags are easy to handle, and require minimal maintenance. To make compost using 
this method, 30-40 gallon plastic bags should be alternatively filled with plant 
wastes, fertilizer and lime. About one tablespoon of a garden fertilizer with a 
high nitrogen content should be used per bag. Lime (one cup per bag) helps 
counteract the extra acidity caused by anaerobic composting. After filling, add 
about a quart of water. Close tightly. Set aside for six months to a year. Bags 
can be set in a basement or heated garage for better decomposition during winter 
months. Using garbage bags requires no turning or additional water after 
closing. The main advantage of composting in garbage bags is that it requires 
little maintenance; however, because oxygen is limited, the process is slow. 

The barrel or drum composter generates compost is a relatively short period of 
time and provides an easy mechanism for turning. This method requires a barrel 
of at least 55 gallons with a secure lid. Be sure that the barrel was not used 
to store toxic chemicals. Drill 6-9 rows of 1/2 inch holes over the length of 
the barrel to allow for air circulation and drainage of excess moisture. Place 
the barrel upright on blocks to allow bottom air circulation. Fill the barrel 
3/4 full with organic waste material and add about 1/4 cup of high 
(approximately 30%N) nitrogen containing fertilizer. Apply water until compost 
is moist but not soggy. 

Every few days, turn the drum on its side and roll it around the yard to mix and 
aerate the compost. The lid can be removed after turning to allow for air 
penetration. Ideally, the compost should be ready in two to four months. The 
barrel composter is an excellent choice for the city dweller with a relatively 
small yard. 

For larger quantities of organic waste, bin type structures are the most 
practical. As an example, a circular bin can be made by using a length of small 
spaced woven wire fencing and holding it together with chain snaps. The bin 
should be about three to five feet in diameter and at least four feet high. A 
stake may be driven in the middle of the bin before adding material to help 
maintain the shape of the pile and to facilitate adding water. With this design, 
it is easiest to turn the composting material by simply unsnapping the wire, 
moving the wire cylinder a few feet, and turning the compost back into it. 

A very efficient and durable structure for fast composting is a three-chambered 
bin. It holds a considerable amount of compost, and allows good air circulation. 
The three chambered bin works on an assembly line idea, having three batches of 
compost in varying stages of decomposition. The compost material is started in 
the first bin and allowed to heat up for three to five days. Next, it is turned 
into the middle bin for another 4-7 days, while a new batch of material is 
started in the first bin. Finally, the material in the middle bin is turned into 
the last bin as finished or nearly finished compost. 

To make a three-chambered bin, it is best to use rot resistant wood such as 
redwood, salt treated wood or wood treated with an environmentally safe 
preservative or a combination of treated wood and metal posts. Unless the wood 
is treated or rot resistant, it will decompose within a few years. Each bin 
should be at least three to five feet in each dimension to contain enough volume 
to compost properly. Using removable slats in the front offers complete access 
to the contents for turning. 

The compost pile should be located close to where it will be used and where it 
will not interfere with activities in the yard or offend neighbors. From the 
aesthetic point of view, it is best to compost in a location screened from view 
of both your property and neighbor's property. Examples of good locations for 
the pile include: near the garden or between the garage and house. Do not locate 
the compost pile near a well or on a slope that drains to surface water such as 
a stream or a pond. The pile will do best where it is protected from drying 
winds and in partial sunlight to help heat the pile. The more wind and sun the 
pile is exposed to, the more water it will need. Locating the pile too close to 
trees may also create problems as roots may grow into the bottom of the pile and 
make turning and handling the compost difficult. 

Organic wastes, such as leaves, grass, and plant trimmings are put down in a 
layer eight to ten inches deep. Coarser materials will decompose faster if 
placed in the bottom layer. This layer should be watered until moist, but not 
soggy. A nitrogen source should be placed on top of this layer. Use one to two 
inches of livestock manure, or a nitrogen fertilizer such as ammonium nitrate or 
ammonium sulfate at a rate of one third of a cup for every twenty five square 
feet of surface area. If these nitrogen sources are not available, one cup of 
10-10-10 fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area will also suffice. Do not 
use fertilizer that contains herbicide or pesticide. 

About a one inch layer of soil or completed compost can be applied on top of the 
fertilizer layer. One purpose of adding soil is to ensure that the pile is 
inoculated with decomposing microbes. The use of soil in a compost pile should 
be considered optional. In most cases, organic yards wastes such as grass 
clippings or leaves contain enough microorganisms on the surface to effect 
decomposition. Studies have shown that there is no advantage in purchasing a 
compost starter or inoculum. One way to insure that activator microbes are 
present in the new compost is to mix in some old compost as the pile is 
prepared. 

Most compost piles should initially be prepared in layers. This will facilitate 
decomposition by insuring proper mixing. Each pile ideally should be about 5 
feet high. If only tree leaves are to be composted, layering may not be 
necessary. Fallen leaves can be added as they are collected. Leaves should be 
moistened if they are dry and since dead leaves lack adequate nitrogen for rapid 
decomposition, addition of a high-nitrogen fertilizer (10- 30% analysis) should 
be added to speed up breakdown. Approximately 5 ounces (about 1/2 cup) of 10% 
nitrogen fertilizer should be added for each 20 gallons of hand compressed 
leaves. 

To prevent odors and hasten decomposition, the pile must be turned occasionally. 
Turning also exposes seeds, insect larvae, and pathogens to lethal temperatures 
inside the pile. Odors may arise either from the addition of excessive amounts 
of wet plant materials like fruits or grass clippings, or from overwatering. A 
properly mixed and adequately turned compost heap will not have objectionable 
odors. An actively decomposing pile will reach temperatures of 130-160 F in the 
middle. 

Reasons for the pile not heating up may be due to: too small a pile, not enough 
nitrogen, lack of oxygen, too much or not enough moisture. The pile should be 
turned when the temperature in the center begins to cool. This will introduce 
oxygen and undecomposed material into the center and subsequently regenerate 
heating. The composting process is essentially complete when mixing no longer 
produces heat in the pile. 

Generally, a well managed compost pile with shredded material under warm 
conditions will be ready in about 2-4 months. A pile left unattended and 
material not shredded may take over a year to decompose. Piles prepared in the 
late fall will not be ready for use the following spring. When the compost is 
finished, the pile will be about half its original size and have an earthy smell 
to it. 
http://www.maasnursery.com/composting.htm 
Early in the spring-like now-go pick a peck of the leaves and put 
them in a basket to dry. Once dried, crumble and store in old herb 
bottles or canning jars, use them like any other herb: dry, dandelion 
is tasteless.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Choline: Is found in bitter vegetables and the leaves of Dandelions 
and is critical for effective liver function.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Dandelion leaves and roots have been used for hundreds of years to 
treat liver, gallbladder, kidney, and joint problems. In some 
traditions, dandelion is considered a blood purifier and is used for 
conditions as varied as eczema and cancer. As is the case today, 
dandelion leaves have also been used historically to treat water 
retention.

Dandelion is also a rich source of vitamins and minerals. The leaves 
have a high content of vitamin A as well as moderate amounts of 
vitamin D, vitamin C, various B vitamins, iron, silicon, magnesium, 
zinc, and manganese.

The bitter compounds in the leaves and root help stimulate digestion 
and are mild laxatives. These bitter principles also increase bile 
production in the gallbladder and bile flow from the liver. For this 
reason dandelion is recommended by some herbalists for people with 
sluggish liver function due to alcohol abuse or poor diet. The 
increase in bile flow may help improve fat (including cholesterol) 
metabolism in the body.

Dandelion, also known as Blowball, Cankerwort, Lion's Tooth, Priest's 
Crown, Puffball, Swine Snout, White Endive, and Wild Endive, is a 
perennial plant found, to the dismay of many, almost everywhere. The 
oblong or spatulate, irregularly dentate or pinnatifid leaves grow in 
a rosette from the milky taproot, which also sends up one or more 
naked flower stems, each terminating in a single yellow flower. The 
familiar puffball that succeeds the flower is a globular cluster of 
achenes, each of which is fitted with a parachute-like tuft.

Dandelion has been used as an aperient, cholagogue, diuretic, 
stomachic, and tonic. Dandelion has two particularly important uses: 
to promote the formation of bile and to remove excess water from the 
body in edemous conditions resulting from liver problems. The root 
especially affects all forms of secretion and excretion from the 
body. By acting to remove poisons from the body, it acts as a tonic 
and stimulant as well. The fresh juice is most effective, but 
Dandelion is also prepared as a tea. Lukewarm Dandelion tea has been 
recommended for dyspepsia with constipation, fever, insomnia, and 
hypochondria. An infusion of the fresh root is said to be good for 
gallstones, jaundice, and other liver problems. Dandelion leaves are 
healthful as salad greens.

Herbalists know the plant as one of the most nutrient-rich in the 
plant kingdom. The whole dandelion plant is edible-the flowers being 
used to make wine, the leaves boiled like spinach or added uncooked 
to salads, and the roots used as a vegetable or roasted and brewed 
for a coffee-like beverage. The herb contains potassium, sodium, 
phosphorus and iron. The leaves are a richer source of vitamin A than 
carrots and contain some amounts of vitamins B, C and D.

It is very safe and its benefits are many. In our high-tech world we 
often lose sight of the low-tech remedies that nature has provided. 
These are all around, but unless we know about them their virtues 
will be lost. 

Next time, instead of reaching for the toxic chemicals, reach for a 
spade, harvest this wonderful weed, and enjoy your greens along with 
your good health!

Disclaimer: If you suspect you have a disease or health related 
condition of any kind, please learn and research what is causing it 
and how to cure it. If you are unable to learn, you should contact 
health care professional practicing natural and traditional forms of 
healing. This information is for people who are ready to take FULL 
RESPONSIBILITY for their health. The results reported MAY NOT occur 
in all individuals. 

From:backwaterjon@yahoo.com

http://www.azuswebworks.com/herbs/dandeln.htm

Choline: Is found in bitter vegetables and the leaves of Dandelions 
and is critical for effective liver function.


http://www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/Herb/Dandelion.cfm

http://www.a-better-way.com/dandelion.html

Dandelion leaves and roots have been used for hundreds of years to 
treat liver, gallbladder, kidney, and joint problems. In some 
traditions, dandelion is considered a blood purifier and is used for 
conditions as varied as eczema and cancer. As is the case today, 
dandelion leaves have also been used historically to treat water 
retention.

Dandelion is also a rich source of vitamins and minerals. The leaves 
have a high content of vitamin A as well as moderate amounts of 
vitamin D, vitamin C, various B vitamins, iron, silicon, magnesium, 
zinc, and manganese.

The bitter compounds in the leaves and root help stimulate digestion 
and are mild laxatives.  These bitter principles also increase bile 
production in the gallbladder and bile flow from the liver.  For this 
reason dandelion is recommended by some herbalists for people with 
sluggish liver function due to alcohol abuse or poor diet. The 
increase in bile flow may help improve fat (including cholesterol) 
metabolism in the body.

Dandelion, also known as Blowball, Cankerwort, Lion's Tooth, Priest's 
Crown, Puffball, Swine Snout, White Endive, and Wild Endive, is a 
perennial plant found, to the dismay of many, almost everywhere. The 
oblong or spatulate, irregularly dentate or pinnatifid leaves grow in 
a rosette from the milky taproot, which also sends up one or more 
naked flower stems, each terminating in a single yellow flower. The 
familiar puffball that succeeds the flower is a globular cluster of 
achenes, each of which is fitted with a parachute-like tuft.

Dandelion has been used as an aperient, cholagogue, diuretic, 
stomachic, and tonic. Dandelion has two particularly important uses: 
to promote the formation of bile and to remove excess water from the 
body in edemous conditions resulting from liver problems. The root 
especially affects all forms of secretion and excretion from the 
body. By acting to remove poisons from the body, it acts as a tonic 
and stimulant as well. The fresh juice is most effective, but 
Dandelion is also prepared as a tea. Lukewarm Dandelion tea has been 
recommended for dyspepsia with constipation, fever, insomnia, and 
hypochondria. An infusion of the fresh root is said to be good for 
gallstones, jaundice, and other liver problems.  Dandelion leaves are 
healthful as salad greens.
www.viable-herbal.com/herbdesc1/1dandeli.htm

Herbalists know the plant as one of the most nutrient-rich in the 
plant kingdom. The whole dandelion plant is edible-the flowers being 
used to make wine, the leaves boiled like spinach or added uncooked 
to salads, and the roots used as a vegetable or roasted and brewed 
for a coffee-like beverage. The herb contains potassium, sodium, 
phosphorus and iron. The leaves are a richer source of vitamin A than 
carrots and contain some amounts of vitamins B, C and D.

It is very safe and its benefits are many. In our high-tech world we 
often lose sight of the low-tech remedies that nature has provided. 
These are all around, but unless we know about them their virtues 
will be lost. 

Next time, instead of reaching for the toxic chemicals, reach for a 
spade, harvest this wonderful weed, and enjoy your greens along with 
your good health!
Subject:  deer

 
ADVERTISEMENT
 
 
Now there's a question that almost everyone can identify with! :)

Unfortunately, if deer are hungry, they're going to eat whatever they
can find to eat and a lot of what we plant is as appealing to them as
it is to us. Sometimes it seems like we plant for the critters and
then take home the leftovers for ourselves. I'm willing to share and
I know that's part of the whole gardening experience, but I'd like to
take home more than the critters do. :)

The good news is that there are lots of things you can try in the
effort to discourage the deer fromcoming into your garden. It's
definitely a challenge, but there are many people on this list who
have had success with different things and I'm sure they will be glad
to share them.

My own experience with deer (and other critters) has been a
challenging one as well because I garden in a community garden in a
county park. The garden area is about the size of a football field
and there is no fencing around the garden or the park itself. So I
definitely understand your frustration.

You say that you garden on lots of land. Is the actual garden area
too big to fence? Keeping in mind that even if you do put up a
fence, it would need to be over six feet tall to keep out the deer.

My mom, whose property extends out into the woods, so she has deer
challenges as well, hangs bars of soap around the garden. They don't
wash away in the rain as quickly as soap shavings will. She thinks
that has been helpful.

Some other things people have used....

--human hair or pet hair (if you have a hair salon or pet grooming
place near you, they would probably be glad to give you what they
sweep up)

--this might sound crude, but...sometimes desperate times call for
desperate measures, lol. Some people use urine. Sounds gross,
but...can be effective. Not ON the plants, of course, but around the
perimeter. Of course this would have to be...ahem...reapplied
regularly because it would also wash away in the rain and the scent
would just fade.

--this one sounds silly, perhaps, but old shoes left in the garden
can have enough of a human scent to give deer enough caution to stay
away.

--sweat rags, lol. When I work in the garden I have a cloth that I
use for wiping the sweat off my forehead and neck in the heat of
summer and when I leave, I tie it to a stake.

--shiny things. If you can string some old CD's, aluminum pie pans,
tin foil strips, etc... around the garden, sometimes as they move in
the wind the movement is enough to scare the deer.

--noise. If you have a little portable radio that you can leave on
in the garden when you leave, that could help. It will use a lot of
batteries over time (unless you have rechargeable), but it might help.

--netting. I've found this to be most effective in my community
garden situation. It can be a bit of a nuisance, but not that
much. You can get the netting at most hardware stores or places like
Home Depot.

--plants they don't like. I discovered last summer that the deer
don't like chamomile (they didn't come near that part of the garden)
and they don't seem to like Cosmos. It's because of the feathery
foliage, I think. So next year I'm going to plant those all around
the border, just to see if it will help. It can't hurt and it's
pretty and chamomile is wonderful, so I could never have too much of
it. :) There are other plants that the deer don't care for so
much, so it's helpful to plant those at the border. Not a sure fire
cure, but every effort helps.

--a sacrificial garden. I have no idea if this would actually be
helpful or not, but had thought about trying it. By 'sacrificial', I
mean a garden that you can plant just for the deer. You won't have
to tend to it much - just get the plants started and possibly, if
you're taking other measures for YOUR garden and this sacrificial
garden is easily accessed by the deer - who knows - maybe they will
just go there instead. Again - haven't tried it, don't know anybody
who has, but thought I'd throw the idea out there.

A border of carpet or chicken wire around the outer edge of the
garden. The deer don't like to walk on it. It has to be a couple of
feet wide, I think. I know someone out here (Cynthia, maybe?) wrote
about this lastyear. She can tell you more of the details of how to
use that.

I'm sure others will have other ideas for you also. Good luck!

rachel
PA, suburban homesteader, community gardener


Date: 6/21/2003 3:28:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time 
From: backwaterjon@yahoo.com 

--- In organichomesteadinggardening@yahoogroups.com, Julie Dudley 
<tip2052@y...> wrote:
Hi, sorry not to know this but what is (diatomaceous earth) and where 
to you find it.    
  Thanks Julie 
**********************
Diatomaceous Earth is the hard shells of sea creatures. These shells 
have sharp edges and tend to tear an insect up from the inside out. 
Diatomaceous Earth is not harmful to humans or other large animals 
because they cannot do enough damage in our mostly liquid bodies to 
harm us. 

Mellingers sell Diatomaceous Earth

http://www.mellingers.com/

When Diatomaceous Earth is sprinkled on the ground, on an ant mount, 
or mixed with grains, legumes, etc., it slices and dices the insects 
that walk through it.  Many farmers deliberately mix Diatomaceous 
Earth with animal feed to kill internal parasites in farm animals. 
The Diatomaceous Earth in the animal feces even kills the fly maggots 
that invariably appear in the patties.

Diatomaceous Earth comes in at least two grades: Horticultural Grade 
and Food Grade. It's important to use only Food Grade Diatomaceous 
Earth if you're using it to store grains. 

If you want to use it on plants, don't get any on the flowers. It'll 
slice up the few honeybees we have left. And I don't recommend 
incorporating mass quantities into the soil. Earthworms are good 
things: Diatomaceous Earth is also effective against fleas, but 
again, take care not to let your pet breathe it.

OSHA Says: Diatomaceous Earth: A soft siliceous solid composed of 
skeletons of small prehistoric aquatic plants. Contains primarily 
silica. Silica: Group 3, not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity 
to humans (Amorphous Silica) 


Seed Saving: Dill

Dill will cross pollinate, so isolate by 1/4 mile or only grow one 
variety.

Dill tends to go to seed very early, so pull and discard the early 
bolters. Pick seed when dry. You can put a paper bag over the seed 
heads and tie it on to prevent seed loss.

Put in a paper bag (label) and put in a glass jar and keep in a cool, 
dark, dry place

tenzicut
From:   "cynthia brennemann" <thornkell@charter.net> 
Date:  Fri Oct 17, 2003  5:50 pm
Subject:  Dream Homestead

Well, First I would purchase a HUGE amount of land...100+acres to put
it on. I don't just want a house, I want a working homestead and
organic farm, with several types of chickens, guinea fowl, ducks,
geese, pigs, goats, Dexter and Jersey cows...all with moveable
fencing so I can rotate grazing/crops areas (kind of like the Chicken
Tractor, only using a rotation in animal grazing, too). That being
said, I would build a HUGE (at least an acre) geodesic dome
greenhouse, with clad metal, and walkways running around the outside
for ease of maintenance. Bullet proof glass, of course, so hail
damage wouldn't be a concern (Hey, you said money was no object,
right?), double paned, and glazed for insulation.

Around the exterior of that would be an underground fiber mesh
concrete construction house covered with a planted berm. Windows and
doors would peek out from planted areas, so you wouldn't actually see
the house until you were inside it. There would be solar tubes
collecting light all at the top of the berm so the inside would be
light. There would be NO wall to wall carpeting, though there would
be area rugs of various types. I would have a capped septic system
so I could capture all the methane produced in the septic tanks to
use for all my gas appliances, and even a converter burner tucked
away so we could burn excess methane to produce electricity. I would
have wind and water turbines as well, so I could go off the grid. Of
course, I would have to have DH put in a server, so I didn't have to
go back to dial up computer service. There would be masonry
fireplace/ovens so we could cook with wood in an emergency, and so we
could enjoy a nice toasty evening with a wood fire when we wanted.
Water tubes would heat the floors. There would be lots of natural
and slightly color stained woods and lovely stone surfaces, deep,
plush comfy furniture, and a gourmet kitchen with its own semi-open
courtyard enclosed on one side by the geodesic dome, and on the other
by the earthen wall. The master bedroom would have another semi-open
courtyard, and a hot tub big enough for a romp in, as well as a steam
sauna and one of those showers that hit you from all sides. We'd
have everything handicap accessible for future planning (and for my
MIL's convenience, and my daughters friends).

Inside the geodesic dome I would have my tropical fruits and veggies
and ornamentals. I would grow durian fruit, cocoa, coffee, vanilla
bean, pepper vine, guava, citrus, mango, miracle fruit,
sapote...EVERYTHING! There would be various divisions in 'weather'
from tropical, to semi tropical, from humid to arid. And in here
would be hammocks and wicker furniture and umbrellas and even outdoor
beds. There would be more than one level of walkway through the
jungle, and maybe a nice breeding pair of lion maned tamarins and
some exotic birds (big enough not to worry about the cats getting to
them). I would have a stream running constantly throughout the dome
in a winding path, with brightly colored tropical fish all through
it, and the walls inside the dome would be of pleached plantings.
The overhead sprinkler system would always be accompanied by
thunderstorm recordings.

Sigh. Hey, you said DREAM house...right?
***

These are the dyes I have done.. I have used them on wool only. I 
have only used alum as a mordant

My 1st experiment was using grape leaves to get a nice yellow. I 
lived on a vineyard and leaves are not hard to find. I simmered the 
leaves in a large stainless steel pot (My dyepot) for an hour. I 
took the leaves out and then simmered the wool for an hour. I lifted 
the wool out and disappointed with the pale yellow colour, I tosssed 
it back in the dye for another hour. I lifted the wool out and had 
the same colour. Did A little more reading and decided to try 
ammonia on the wool. It instantly turned into a bright school bus/ 
canary yellow with is lightfast and colour fast. I test my wool for 
lightfastness by putting a 6-12 inch strip of the spun yarn into a 
south facing window for 3-6 months and then check it back against 
the rest of the skein. I used Dorset wool on this one.

My 2nd experiment was wanting the lovely colour of beets. I swear 
everyone must have thought this at least once. I did this on white 
wool, Coopsworth I think. I diced the beets up and simmered them. I 
then added alum and the wool. and simmered and simmered and 
simmered.. nothing.. the wool would not take on any colour. I took 
it out to the compost pile and was going to dump it and decided it 
was too hot yet and intending to go back to it later.. I promply 
forgot... 2-3 weeks later.. I remembered (it was moms compost pile.. 
not mine) where my pot was and after the initial "EWwwwwwwwwwww".. 
and as i was dumping it out. There was only mildew on the top.. the 
wool was fine. I washed the wool in Palmolive (the only thing I was 
my wools in) and it was a very nice peachy-orange-red colour, which 
spun up very nicely and was a violet/peach colour.


Avacado green - I was making Blue Elderberry jelly and had all the 
pulp and stems and leaves left (WARNING - THE LEAVES, STEMS and 
SEEDS are TOXIC!!!)...someone asked if I would use the pulp for 
making a purple dye and I said.. I had no clue and lets try it. In 
the 1st 3 mins, I discovered that you CANNOT DO THIS IN YOUR 
KITCHEN!! The fumes are ugly and incredible. I had heated all the 
stuff up with alum and a bit of salt. I immediately took it outside 
and was going to dump it in the blackberries when it cooled and 
forgot about it for 3 weeks. As bas as this sounds, there are many 
dyes that are cold fermented. This was just an accidental 
fermentation. After 3 weeks and I was looking for my dyepot, I 
rememebred where it was.. opened it up and dicovered a VERY light 
pink wool (this was on white Jacob wool).. as with the yellow 
grapeleaf, I thought that perhaps using ammonia, would intensify the 
colour. I was highly suprised when it turned from light cotton candy 
pink to a beautiful colourfast and washfast avacado/forest green.

Another yellow I made was from Goldenrod which grows wild all over 
the area here. Harvest the tops, simmer in water and then strain and 
then add your dyestuff. No mordant was required. I highly suspect 
you can get the same intensity of green if you use copper for a 
mordant.

Woad - I have tried woad in a cold water fermentation. It was some 
success, but I was also in the middle of moving from Oregon to 
Canada and I didnt do as well by it as I ought to have. Your 
dyestuff wont turn colour in the dyebath, it is when it is exposed 
to air and light that it will turn blue (or pink depending on which 
you tried). This is paintable on the body, the Celts/Picts were 
reknown for it. This and henna would be the only ones I would 
actually try on the skin.

That is the end of my experiments. I am involved in the SCA and have 
studied traditional dyes from Scotland/Celtic regions and these are 
my notes I took around 1996. I appologize if they are a little vauge.

Alder - Bark (rich in tannin) Black colour - soak bark 2 days, boil 
24 hrs, add iron

Bearberry - Leaves - violetgrey. Leaves are gathered at flowering 
time (mid-June) . Boil 30 mins, strain, add alum, keep hot 1 hr (ash 
grey)

Lady's bedstraw - roots Cardinal/lake red..sun dried roots chopped. 
Soak 24 hrs. Bring slowly to a boil then simmer until a good red 
colour. Strain. Cool slightly. Alum cover roots again with water and 
bring to a slow boil. Will continue to get red then brown appears.

Horse chestnut- Cinnimon colour- green husks in September. Soak 24 
hrs. Boil with or without alum.

Dock- this is a one dye bath - ripe seed heads
Amber/Apricot - boil 2 hrs
Carmel - boil 2 + hrs
Dull red- 
Garnet brown -
Ox Blood Red - the last 3 colours are 8 hrs to 48 hrs

Elderberry - Hot dye - very ripe berries= deep violet
2 days in water with ferrous sulphate and vinegar
Boil until very dark , add alum and yarn,. Soak 2 days, very 
sensitive to pH changes
Cold dye - oriental blue - ripe berries crushed and soaked in 
vinegar 2 days, Alum and yarn, soak without heat for 12 hrs. At this 
point red, Rise with ammonia, red turns to blue

Pineappleweed - very good signal yellow, Flower tops picked mid-
summer. Boil 1 hr. Alum yarn overnight, boil longer, greeny-yellow 
shade

Rhubarb - clean and chop roots, put into glass conatiner, just cover 
with water. 1 TB ammonia. will turn red. leave in a sunny place 
several hrs. Alum yarn. Cold 4 hrs = grey/orange... boil= with extra 
ammonia and hot bath until Lake Red, for Coral ash, add tin

Lichens - I have a whole whack of lichen recipes. I am hestitant at 
posting them as many of the lichens can take 100's of years to grow 
and many are being damaged my pollution.

Madder - Roots - beneath outer woody root bark. young roots = terra 
cotta. 7 yr olod roots = purplish red dye. Ranges from pink, red, 
orange, brown, lilac and purple with the use of garancine(?)
Paprika colour = dried roots 3 summers old. whole and chopped. heat 
slowly and boil 4 hrs. Alum, keep hot 12 hrs
Tomato colour = remove yarn at paprika stage, boil roots vigrously 2 
more hors, cool liquid and put yarn back in the dyebath, simmer 6 
more hours. Strong clear colour

Woad - bi-annual seeds the second year . can be a HIDEIOUS WEED, 
some states it is illegal to grow. lieks deep rich soil. use 1st 
year leaves. possible to get 4 crops a year from same plant. 1st 
year leaves gathered, torn up and put into dye container. H2O just 
below boiling point. Pour over leaves to cover. Soak 20 mins. 
Squeeze leaves firmly into liquid before discarding. add washing 
soda. add slowly and stop when it turns green. (was yellow.brown), 
which 5 mins to get air into it. Heat to 50C, add small amount 
sodium dithionate; 10 ml to 9 liters of liquid is plenty. leave 30 
mins, will turn yellowish. add yarn, no mortant, 10 mins,. if dye 
turns green add more sodium dithionate. after removing from dyebath, 
put outside to oxidise, then may have to repeat many times, after ( 
unreadable note), rise and dry.

I have another awesome one I would never try... ok. I might.. for 
traditional Turkey Red dye.. it never fades after 100's of years. 
but it involves stale fermented boiled sheep urine as as well other 
nasty stuff and it takes 3 weeks to accomplish this...

I have to look up more of my notes if you guys want more.. but this 
is a start anyway

tenzicut 
Earthworms, and How To Grow Them

1. You will need a wash tub or garbage can or other container that 
Will not fall apart if it gets wet.

2. Make drainage holes in the bottom of the container.

3. Fill the bottom of the container with a few inches of sand.

4. Fit a piece of window screen over the sand.

5. Fill the container with a mixture of two parts sawdust, two parts 
steer manure, one part garden soil, and one part leaves. 

6. Dampen the mix thoroughly, and let it set for three days.

7. Add some earthworms. 

If you purchase your earthworms, use them only for the purpose of 
creating compost. Most commercially grown earthworms are able to 
survive in only very rich soil, or manure, and they are not hardy 
enough to survive in the average garden. 

I always use garden earthworms because that way I produce new 
earthworms to add back to my garden beds.

Keep your earthworm container in a cool, dark place.

Keep your mix moist but never too wet.

Feed your worms finely chopped vegetable matter, moistened with a 
little water. Food that has been run through a blender is best 
because earthworms don't have teeth, and by blending you'll speed the process.

If the food doesn't disappear in 24 hours, you're feeding too much 

Your worm population should double in about 30 days.

In about 60 days, your container should be full of rich compost. 
Empty your container outdoors onto a piece of heavy plastic. Let it 
sit for about one hour. During this hour the worms will sense the 
change in conditions and cluster together. Dig in, find the cluster, 
and add 1/2 the worms to your garden compost, remembering to keep some of them 
to start another worm farm. Add the worm castings to containers, or to make worm 
casting tea...another form of liquid organic fertilizer.

Egg and Egg Product Safety
Source: USDA Consumer Information, October 1996

Eggs can be part of a healthy diet. However, they are perishable 
just like raw meat, poultry, and fish. To be safe, they must be 
properly refrigerated and cooked.

Concern for egg safety
Today some unbroken fresh shell eggs may contain certain bacteria 
that can cause foodborne illness. The bacteria are Salmonella 
enteritidis. While the number of eggs affected is quite small, 
there have been scattered outbreaks in the last few years. 
Currently the government, the egg industry and the scientific 
community are working together to solve the problem.

What part carries bacteria?
Researchers say that if present, the salmonella bacteria are usually 
in the yolk or "yellow". But they can't rule out the bacteria being 
in egg whites. So everyone is advised against eating raw or uncooked 
egg yolks, whites or products containing them.

Who should be extra careful?
People with health problems, the very young, the elderly and pregnant 
women (the risk is to the unborn child) are particularly vulnerable to 
Salmonella enteritidis infections. A chronic illness weakens the 
immune system making the person vulnerable to foodborne illnesses.

Taking Steps at Home
Proper refrigeration, cooking and handling should prevent most egg-safety
 problems. Persons can enjoy eggs and dishes containing eggs if these 
safe handling guidelines are followed.

1. Don't Eat Raw Eggs
This includes "health-food" milk shakes with raw eggs, Caesar salad, 
hollandaise sauce and any other foods like homemade mayonnaise, ice 
cream or eggnog made from recipes in which the raw egg ingredients 
are not cooked.

2. Buy Clean Eggs
At the store, choose Grade A or AA eggs with clean, uncracked shells. 
Make sure they've been refrigerated in the store. Any bacteria present
in an egg can multiply quickly at room temperature.

3. Refrigerate Eggs
Take eggs straight home and store them immediately in the refrigerator 
set at 40øF or slightly below. Store them in the grocery carton in the 
coldest part of the refrigerator, not in the door. Don't wash eggs. 
That could increase the potential for bacteria on the shell to enter 
the egg.

4. Use Eggs Promptly
Use raw shell eggs within 3 to 5 weeks. Hard-cooked eggs will keep in 
the refrigerator for 1 week. Use leftover eggs and whites within 4 days.

If eggs crack on the way home from the store, break them into a clean 
container, cover it tightly, and keep refrigerated for use within 2 
days.

5. Freeze Eggs for Longer Storage
Eggs should not be frozen in their shells. To freeze whole eggs, beat 
yolks and whites together. Egg whites can be frozen by themselves. Use 
frozen eggs within a year.

If eggs freeze accidentally in their shells, keep them frozen until 
needed. Defrost them in the refrigerator. Discard any with cracked 
shells.

Unopened cartons of egg substitutes can be frozen for 1 year.

6. Handle Eggs Safely
Wash hands, utensils, equipment and work areas with warm, soapy water 
before and after contact with eggs and egg-rich foods.

Don't keep eggs - including Easter Eggs - out of the refrigerator more 
than 2 hours. Serve cooked eggs and egg-rich foods immediately after 
cooking, or place in shallow containers for quick cooling and refrigerate 
at once for later use. Use within 3 to 4 days.


7. Cooked Eggs
Hard cooked eggs should be safe for everyone to eat. Those "at risk" 
for foodborne illness should avoid eating soft-cooked or "runny" eggs.

However, healthy persons may choose to eat eggs that are less than totally 
firm. Use the following cooking times:

*Fried eggs - cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side; 4 minutes in a covered pan.

*Scrambled eggs should be cooked until firm throughout.

*Poached eggs - 5 minutes over boiling water.

*Soft-cooked eggs - 7 minutes in the shell in boiling water.


8. Use Safe Egg Recipes
Egg mixtures are safe if they reach 160øF, so homemade ice cream and 
eggnog can be made safely from a cooked base. Heat the egg-milk mixture
gently. Use a thermometer or be sure the mixture coats a metal spoon.

Dry meringue shells are safe. So are divinity candy and 7-minute frosting, 
made by combining hot sugar syrup with beaten egg whites.
Meringue-topped pies should be safe if baked at 350øF for about 15 minutes.
Chiffon pies and fruit whips made with raw, beaten egg whites cannot 
be guaranteed safe. Substitute whipped cream or whipped topping.

To make key lime pie safely, heat the lime (or lemon) juice with the 
raw egg yolks in a pan on the stove, stirring constantly, until the 
mixture reaches 160øF. Then combine it with the sweetened condensed 
milk and pour it into a bake pie crust. For meringue topping, bake as 
above.

For egg dishes such as quiche and casseroles, insert a knife in the center. 
It should come out clean.


Egg Product Safety
The term "egg products" refers to eggs that have been removed from their 
shells for processing. Basic egg products include whole eggs, whites, 
yolks and various blends, with or without non-egg ingredients that are
processed and pasteurized. They may be available in liquid, frozen and 
dried forms.


What are some buying tips?
ú Containers should be tightly sealed.
ú Frozen products should show no sign of thawing.
ú Purchase refrigerated products kept at 40øF or below.
ú Avoid hardened dried egg products.


Are egg Products Pasteurized?
Yes. The 1970 Egg Products Inspection Act requires that all egg products
distributed for consumption be pasteurized. They are rapidly heated and 
held at a minimum required temperature for a specified time. This destroys 
Salmonella but it does not cook the eggs or affect their color, flavor,
nutritional value or use. Dried egg white are pasteurized by heating in
the dried form.

Can egg Products Be Used in Uncooked Foods?
Egg products can be used in baking or cooking (scrambled eggs, for example)
They have been pasteurized but are best used in a cooked product. Consumers 
should be sure that the internal temperature of the cooked dish reaches
160øF.

Egg products can be substituted in recipes typically made with raw eggs
that won't be cooked to 160øF., such as Caesar Salad and homemade 
mayonnaise. Although pasteurized for optimal safety, it is best to 
start with a cooked base, especially if serving a high-risk person.


Storage Times for Egg Products
ú Frozen egg products - 1 year
ú If the container for liquid products bears a "use by" date, observe 
  it.

ú For liquid products without an expiration date, store unopened cartons
  at 40øF or below for up to 7 days (not over 3 days after opening).
ú Don't freeze opened cartons.
ú Unopened dried egg products can be stored at room temperature as 
  long as they are kept cool and dry. After opening, keep refrigerated.
ú Use reconstituted products immediately or refrigerate and use that day.

Other Egg-type Items
Certain egg-type items are not presently considered egg products. These
items, which are under FDA jurisdiction, include freeze-dried products,
imitation egg products and egg substitutes. Inspected, pasteurized egg 
products are used to make these items.

No-cholesterol egg substitutes consist of egg whites, artificial color 
and other non-egg additives. Direct questions about egg substitutes to 
the manufacturer or the FDA.

Egg Shell
The color of an eggshell depends upon the breed of hen. Hens with 
white ear lobes lay white eggs. Hens with red ear lobes lay brown 
eggs. Rhode Island Reds, New Hampshires and Plymouth Rock chickens 
lay brown eggs. White Leghorns and Brown Leghorns lay white eggs. 
Egg White
The color of the egg white depends upon the presence of carbon 
dioxide. A fresh egg has a great deal of carbon dioxide, since it 
has not had time to escape, and the white looks very cloudy. 

Egg Yolk
The color of the egg yolk depends on the hen's diet. If she eats 
yellow corn or alfalfa meal, the yolk is medium yellow. If she eats 
barley or wheat, the yolk is a lighter yellow. If she eats white 
corn meal, the yolk is almost colorless. (I wonder what the chickens 
eat that I get my eggs from. They are RED-ORANGE and make my cookie 
dough orange-yellow)

Egg Games
Egg games have their origin in many cultures. Egg hunts have long 
been a tradition around Easter time. An egg toss is a picnic game. 
Egg rolling dates back to the 1600's. Eggs are blown, pushed with 
the nose, or rolled down a hill. Egg tapping is done by tapping one 
egg against another. The egg that survives the longest wins. 

tenzicut

Emergency Heating, Cooking & Lighting
From:   "Mary Anna Bailes" maryannabail@msn.com 
Date:  Sat Nov 29, 2003  11:55 am

Heating

Coal stores well if kept in a dark place and away from moving air. Air
speeds deterioration and breakdown, causing it to burn more rapidly. Coal may be
stored in a plastic-lined pit or in sheds, bags, boxes, or barrels and
should be kept away from circulating air, light, and moisture. Cover it to lend
protection from weather and sun.

Wood. Hardwoods such as apple, cherry, and other fruit woods are slow
burning and sustain coals. Hardwoods are more difficult to burn than softer 
woods, thus requiring a supply of kindling. Soft woods such as pine and cedar 
are light in weight and burn very rapidly, leaving ash and few coals for 
cooking. If you have a fireplace or a wood/coal burning stove, you will want to 
store several cords of firewood. Firewood is usually sold by the cord which is a
neat pile that totals 128 cubic feet. This pile is four feet wide, four feet 
high, and eight feet long. Some dealers sell wood by the ton. As a general rule 
of thumb, a standard cord of air dried dense hardwood weighs about two tons and
provides as much heat as one ton of coal. Be suspicious of any alleged cord
delivered in a 1/2 or 3/4 ton pickup truck.

For best results, wood should be seasoned (dried) properly, usually at east
a year. A plastic tarp, wood planks, or other plastic or metal sheeting over
the woodpile is useful in keeping the wood dry. Other types of fuels are
more practical to store and use than wood or coal.

Newspaper logs make a good and inexpensive source of fuel. You may prepare
the logs in the following manner:

Use about eight pages of newspaper and open flat.
Spread the stack, alternating the cut sides and folded sides.
Place a 1" wood dowel or metal rod across one end and roll the paper around
the rod very tightly. Roll it until there are 6-8 inches left to roll, then
slip another 8 pages underneath the roll. Continue this procedure until you
have a roll 4-6 inches in diameter.

With a fine wire, tie the roll on both ends. Withdraw the rod. Your
newspaper log is ready to use. Four of these logs will burn about 1 hour. 
Propane is another excellent fuel for indoor use. Like kerosene, it produces 
carbon dioxide as it burns and is therefore not poisonous. It does consume 
oxygen so be sure to crack a window when burning propane.

Propane stores indefinitely, having no known shelf life. Propane stoves and
small portable heaters are very economical, simple to use, and come the
closest to approximating the type of convenience most of us are accustomed to 
using on a daily basis.

The storage of propane is governed by strict local laws. In this area you
may store up to 1 gallon inside a building and up to 60 gallons stored outside.
If you store more than these amounts, you will need a special permit from
the fire marshal.

The primary hazard in using propane is that it is heavier than air and if a
leak occurs it may "pool" which can create an explosive atmosphere.
Furthermore, basement natural gas heating units CANNOT be legally converted
for propane use. Again, the vapors are heavier than air and form "pockets." 
Ignition sources such as water heaters and electrical sources can cause an 
explosion.

White gas (Coleman fuel). Many families have camp stoves which burn Coleman
Fuel or white gasoline. These stoves are fairly easy to use and produce a
great amount of heat. However, they, like charcoal, produce vast amounts of 
carbon monoxide. NEVER use a Coleman Fuel stove indoors. It could be a fatal
mistake to your entire family.

Never store fuels in the house or near a heater. Use a metal store cabinet
which is vented on top and bottom and can be locked.

Kerosene (also known as Range Oil No. 1) is the cheapest of all the storage
fuels and is also very forgiving if you make a mistake. Kerosene is not as
explosive as gasoline and Coleman fuel. Kerosene stores well for long
periods of time and by introducing some fuel additives it can be made to store 
even longer. However, do not store it in metal containers for extended time
periods unless they are porcelain lined because the moisture in the kerosene 
will rust through the container causing the kerosene to leak out. Most hardware 
stores and home improvement centers sell kerosene in five gallon plastic 
containers which store for many years. A 55 gallon drum stores in the back yard, 
or ten 5 gallon plastic containers will provide fuel enough to last an entire 
winter if used sparingly.

Caution: To burn kerosene you will need a kerosene heater. There are many
models and sizes to choose from but remember that you are not trying to heat
your entire home. The larger the heater the more fuel you will have to store.
Most families should be able to get by on a heater that produces about 9,600 
BTUs of heat, though kerosene heaters are made that will produce up to 25,000 to
30,000 BTUs. If you have the storage space to store the fuel required by
these larger heaters they are excellent investments, but for most families the
smaller heaters are more than adequate. When selecting a kerosene heater be
sure to get one that can double as a cooking surface and source of light. Then 
when you are forced to use it be sure to plan your meals so that they can be
cooked when you are using the heater for heat rather than wasting fuel used for
cooking only.

When kerosene burns it requires very little oxygen, compared to charcoal.
You must crack a window about 1/4 inch to allow enough oxygen to enter the room
to prevent asphyxiation. During combustion, kerosene is not poisonous and is
safe to use indoors. To prevent possible fires you should always fill it
outside. The momentary incomplete combustion during lighting and
extinguishing of kerosene heaters can cause some unpleasant odors. To prevent 
these odors from lingering in your home always light and extinguish the heater 
out of doors. During normal operation a kerosene heater is practically odorless.

Charcoal. Never use a charcoal burning device indoors. When charcoal burns
it is a voracious consumer of oxygen and will quickly deplete the oxygen supply
in your little "home within a home." Furthermore, as it burns it produces
vast amounts of carbon monoxide which is a deadly poison. If you make the 
mistake of trying to heat your home by burning charcoal it could prove fatal to 
your entire family. Never burn charcoal indoors.

Cooking

To conserve your cooking fuel storage needs always do your emergency cooking
in the most efficient manner possible. Don't boil more water than you need,
extinguish the fire as soon as you finished, plan your meals ahead of time
to consolidate as much cooking as possible, during the winter cook on top of
your heating unit while heating your home, and cook in a pressure cooker or 
other fuel efficient container as much as possible. Keep enough fuel to provide
outdoor cooking for at least 7-10 days.

It is even possible to cook without using fuel at all. For example, to cook
dry beans you can place them inside a pressure cooker with the proper amount
of water and other ingredients needed and place it on your heat source until it
comes up to pressure. Then turn off the heat, remove the pressure cooker and
place inside a large box filled with newspapers, blankets, or other insulating
materials. Leave it for two and a half hours and then open it, your meal
will be done, having cooked for two and a half hours with no heat. If you don't
have a large box in which to place the pressure cooker, simply wrap it in
several blankets and place it in the corner.

Store matches in waterproof airtight tin with each piece of equipment that
must be lit with a flame.

Sterno fuel, a jellied petroleum product, is an excellent source of fuel for
inclusion in your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit. Sterno is very
light weight and easily ignited with a match or a spark from flint and steel but
is not explosive. It is also safe for use indoors.

A Sterno stove can be purchased at any sporting goods store and will retail
between $3 and $8, depending upon the model you choose. They fold up into a
very small, compact unit ideal for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily
available at all sporting goods stores and many drug stores. One can of
Sterno fuel, about the diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as high, will 
allow you to cook six meals if used frugally. Chafing dishes and fondue pots can 
also be used with Sterno.

Sterno is not without some problems. It will evaporate very easily, even
when the lid is securely fastened. If you use Sterno in your 72 hour kit you
should check it every six to eight months to insure that it has not
evaporated beyond the point of usage. Because of this problem it is not a good 
fuel for long-term storage. It is a very expensive fuel to use compared to 
others fuel available, but is extremely convenient and portable.

Coleman fuel (white gas), when used with a Coleman stove is another
excellent and convenient fuel for cooking. It is not as portable nor as 
lightweight as Sterno, but produces a much greater BTU value. Like Sterno, 
Coleman fuel has a tendency to evaporate even when the container is tightly 
sealed so it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. Unlike Sterno, however, 
it is highly volatile; it will explode under the right conditions and should 
therefore never be stored in the home. Because of its highly flammable nature 
great care should always be exercised when lighting stoves and lanterns that use 
Coleman fuel. Many serious burns have been caused by carelessness with this 
product. 

Always store Coleman fuel in the garage or shed, out of doors.

Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can
store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast
amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store for
extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It readily 
absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags 
it comes in for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer 
it to airtight metal or plastic containers and it will keep almost forever.

Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a
family will need for an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy
briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the summer. Broken or torn bags of
briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a
small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also
provide an excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of
lighting device.

To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and
a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches
around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening
juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the
crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal
briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the 
newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a a good 
draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the 
coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place 
burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. 
A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this 
type of fire.

One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you
will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of
heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for 
your oven, simply use ten briquettes.

To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal
you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it
dissipate into the air around you. One excellent way to do this is to cook
inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange 
crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny 
side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its 
side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some
small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a
cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten
burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place 
the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever
else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard
lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs
a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you
would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.

To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut
and other hardwood trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also
be used. Cut wood into desired size, place in a large can which has a few holes
punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot fire. When
the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the
fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container.
Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area.

Wood and Coal. Many wood and coal burning stoves are made with cooking
surface. These are excellent to use indoors during the winter because you
may already be using it to heat the home. In the summer, however, they are
unbearably hot and are simply not practical cooking appliances for indoor use. 
If you choose to build a campfire on the ground outside be sure to use caution 
and follow all the rules for safety. Little children, and even many adults, are 
not aware of the tremendous dangers that open fires may pose.

Kerosene. Many kerosene heaters will also double as a cooking unit. In fact,
it is probably a good idea to not purchase a kerosene heater that cannot be
used to cook on as well. Follow the same precautions for cooking over
kerosene as was discussed under the section on heating your home with kerosene.

Propane. Many families have propane camp stoves. These are the most
convenient and easy to use of all emergency cooking appliances available.
They may be used indoors or out. As with other emergency fuel sources, cook with 
a pressure cooker whenever possible to conserve fuel.

Lighting

Most of the alternatives require a fire or flame, so use caution. More home
fires are caused by improper usage of fires used for light than for any
other purpose. Especially use extra caution with children and flame. Teach them
the proper safety procedures to follow under emergency conditions. Allow them to
practice these skills under proper adult supervision now, rather than
waiting until an emergency strikes.

Cyalume sticks are the safest form of indoor lighting available but very few
people even know what they are. Cyalume sticks can be purchased at most
sporting goods stores for about $2 per stick. They are a plastic stick about
four inches in length and a half inch in diameter. To activate them, simply bend
them until the glass tube inside them breaks, then shake to mix the chemicals
inside and it will glow a bright green light for up to eight hours. Cyalume
is the only form of light that is safe to turn on inside a home after an
earthquake. One of the great dangers after a serious earthquake is caused by 
ruptured natural gas lines. If you flip on a light switch or even turn on a
flashlight you run the risk of causing an explosion. Cyalume will not ignite 
natural gas. Cyalume sticks are so safe that a baby can even use them for a 
teether.

Flashlights are excellent for most types of emergencies except in situations
where ruptured natural gas lines may be present. Never turn a flashlight on
or off if there is any possibility of ruptured gas lines. Go outside first,
turn it on or off, then enter the building.

The three main problems with relying upon flashlights is that they give
light to very small areas, the batteries run down fairly quickly during use, and
batteries do not store well for extended time periods. Alkaline batteries
store the best if stored in a cool location and in an airtight container. These
batteries should be expected to store for three to five years. Many
manufacturers are now printing a date on the package indicating the date through 
which the batteries should be good. When stored under ideal conditions the shelf 
life will be much longer than that indicated. Lithium batteries will store for 
about twice as long as alkaline batteries (about ten years).

If you use flashlights be sure to use krypton or halogen light bulbs in them
because they last much longer and give off several times more light than
regular flashlight bulbs on the same energy consumption. Store at least two
or three extra bulbs in a place where they will not be crushed or broken.

Candles. Every family should have a large supply of candles. Three hundred
sixty-five candles, or one per day is not too many. The larger the better.
Fifty-hour candles are available in both solid and liquid form. White or
light colored candles burn brighter than dark candles. Tallow candles burn
brighter, longer, and are fairly smoke free when compared to wax candles. Their
lighting ability can be increased by placing an aluminum foil reflector behind 
them or by placing them in front of a mirror. However, candles are extremely 
dangerous indoors because of the high fire danger--especially around children. 
For this reason be sure to store several candle lanterns or broad-based candle
holders. Be sure to store a goodly supply of wooden matches

Save your candle ends for emergency use. Votive candles set in empty jars
will burn for up to 15 hours. Non-candles (plastic dish and paper wicks) and
a bottle of salad oil will provide hundreds of hours of candle light.

Trench candles can be used as fireplace fuel or as a candle for light. To
make trench candles:

Place a narrow strip of cloth or twisted string (for a wick) on the edge of
a stack of 6-10 newspapers. Roll the papers very tightly, leaving about 3/4" of 
wick extending at each end. Tie the roll firmly with string or wire at 2-4" 
intervals. With a small saw, cut about 1" above each tie and pull the cut 
sections into cone shapes. Pull the center string in each piece toward the top 
of the cone to serve as a wick.

Melt paraffin in a large saucepan set inside a larger pan of hot water. Soak
the pieces of candle in the paraffin for about 2 minutes. Remove the candles and 
place on a newspaper to dry. Kerosene lamps are excellent sources of light and 
will burn for approximately 45 hours on a quart of fuel. They burn bright and 
are inexpensive to operate. The main problem with using them is failure to 
properly trim the wicks and using the wrong size chimney. Wicks should be 
trimmed in an arch, a "V," an "A" or straight across the top. Failure to 
properly trim and maintain wicks will result in smoke and poor light.

Aladdin type lamps that use a circular wick and mantle do not need trimming
and produce much more light (and heat) than conventional kerosene lamps.
These lamps, however, produce a great amount of heat, getting up to 750 degrees 
F. If placed within 36 inches of any combustible object such as wooden
cabinets, walls, etc. charring can occur. Great caution should therefore be 
exercised to prevent accidental fires.

The higher the elevation the taller the chimney should be. Most chimneys
that come with kerosene lamps are made for use at sea level. At about 4500 feet
above sea level the chimney should be about 18-20 inches high. If your
chimney is not as tall as it should be you can improvise by wrapping aluminum 
foil around the top of it and extending it above the top. This will enable the
light to still come out of the bottom portion and yet provide proper drawing of 
air for complete combustion. If the chimney is too short it will result in smoke
and poor light. Be sure to store extra wicks, chimneys and mantles.

Propane and Coleman lanterns. Camp lanterns burning Coleman fuel or propane
make excellent sources of light. Caution should be used in filling and
lighting Coleman lanterns because the fuel is highly volatile and a flash type 
fire is easy to set off. Always fill them outside. Propane, on the other hand, 
is much safer. It is not as explosive and does not burn quite as hot. A double
mantle lantern gives off as much light as two 100-watt light bulbs. Either
propane or Coleman fuel type lanterns are very reliable and should be an 
integral part of your preparedness program. Be sure to store plenty of extra 
mantles and matches.

Store lots of wooden matches (1,000-2,000 is not too many). Also store
butane cigarette lighters to light candles, lanterns and fireplaces. It would be 
a good idea for everyone to have a personal fire building kit with at least
six different ways to start a fire.

Above all, your home and family must be protected from the ravages of fire
by your actions. Study the instructions for any appliance used for heating,
cooking, or lighting and understand their features as well as their
limitations.

Don't go to sleep with any unvented burning device in your home. Your family
might not wake up.

Whatever you store, store it safely and legally. In an emergency, survival
may cause you to make decisions that are questionable with regard to safety.
Become educated to the inherent hazards of your choices and make a decision
based on as much verifiable information as possible. You and your family's lives
will depend on it.

Consider carefully how you will provide fuel for your family for heating,
cooking, and lighting during times of emergencies. Next to food, water, and
shelter, energy is the most important item you can store.

Feed yourself first

Somewhere along the line farming became less about the land and more about 
making money. 

To me a lot of this happened during the thirties and forties when more and more 
books began to talk about making farming more "businesslike".  Today most of our 
Ag schools teach a curriculum simply about the business end of farming. The land 
itself becomes a means to an end. Similar to the way that college has become a 
means to an end. Rather than learning for the sake of learning, our children are 
now taught to learn for a future income.  

To me farming must start with the very simple maxim of "Feed yourself first". 
The growth of the chemical age and the attitudes of business agriculture has 
allowed farmers to become as distanced from the source of their food as the 
consumers to whom they sell their chemical laden food. Most farmers, including 
those in my family buy their food at the grocery store.  

The distance from the farmer to his food allows the farmer to more easily ignore 
what he applies to both his own food, and the consumers he caters to. Secondly, 
the distance created by chemical agriculture also keeps the farmer from 
observing in his own crops the results of his use of chemicals. In my orchard, I 
walk out everyday, and just look at my trees during the growing season. I 
observe the health of the foliage cover, the presence of pests, the reaction of 
my trees to drought and wet weather, etc.. I do this, because I can most easily 
stop trouble before it starts.

However chemical farmers have the magic spray schedule. Rather than seeing their 
crops, they spray on a schedule. They are unable to see the reasons they have 
problems. For instance in a sprayed orchard it is likely that bee activity will 
be greatly reduced. This results in crops becoming smaller and smaller over the 
years. My grandfather 's orchards have become so denuded of bees, that he 
arranges to have beemen bring bees to him. Never mind that in a healthy organic 
orchard, bees will naturally come (assuming that others in the area aren't 
killing them). 

 When we moved onto our place a little over a year ago, it was winter. When 
spring came I was appalled at how few bees were here. I had lousy crops last 
year! However, after a year of organic culture, this year I had loads of bees. 
Of course I didn't spray any poison this last year (I suspect it was used here 
before) I am also planting a lot wider array of plants with lots of flowers to 
encourage bee activity, including seeding the orchard with wildflowers this 
year.  

I pray Frank is right about returning to a more agrarian culture, however, I'm 
not holding my breath. Nevertheless, it is my belief that in the final analysis, 
change happens one person at a time. So I do everything I can to make my little 
corner of the world as healthy as I can. I figure with farmers like me and each 
and everyone of you chipping away at the granite face of chemical farming and 
gardening, then eventually through sheer tenacity we're bound to make headway. I 
think that there is ample evidence it is already happening. People are becoming 
more and more concerned about what goes into their mouths. A very good thing!  
The biggest thing I know is that when I reach my hand under a little hen for a 
fresh egg, or drink a glass of our fresh goats milk, or brush a little bee away 
from the fruit I am about to pick, life is really good! I love to grow things! 
Little bit Farm
From:   "Dee Ann Guzman" littlebit@brightok.net


Date: 9/15/2003 3:49:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time 
From: tenzicut@yahoo.com 


MAKE YOUR OWN
COMPLETE FERTILIZER

For the home gardener, the actual purchase price of chemical
fertilizer may not be much. But for people living in the Bush, the
cost shipping can be the biggest expense when purchasing commercial
fertilizer.
It is important to fertilize gardens in Alaska adequately. So
look for a cheaper alternative to commercial fertilizers, but don't
skip fertilizing altogether.
There are non-commercial alternatives that use ingredients
usually available to residents of rural Alaska, especially to those
living a subsistence life-style.
Chemical fertilizers may require the use of non-renewable
resources in their manufacture. For some people, this may be
reason enough to look for alternative ways to fertilize their garden
or field crop.
WHY FERTILIZE?
It's simple . . . we have to feed our plants so that they will
feed us. Growing plants take nutrition from soil, water and air.
Unless there are enough of the right nutrients in the soil, the
plant's growth will suffer. Garden plants can deplete many of the
nutrients in the soil unless we replace them each year. The plant's
nutrients we supply are commonly called fertilizers.
Fertilization is not that simple to accomplish. The choice of
nutrients used, how much to use and where to put them are very
important if we want the most out of the fertilizer. The condition
of the soil in which the plants and fertilizers are placed is also
important to know. For example, if the soil has too much or too
little acidity it will not allow the plants to make good use of the
fertilizers added.
THE HOME GROWN RECIPE
The three main ingredients or nutrients in a complete fertilizer
are nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. In commercial fertilizers
the percentage of each of those ingredients is shown on the
label by numbers. For our home variety we use fish waste for the
nitrogen, burned bones for the phosphorus, and wood ashes for
the potassium.
Fish waste for nitrogen
Fish guts and other discarded fish parts are a good source of
nitrogen if handled correctly. Mix 1 part fish waste to 2 parts
water. A 55 gallon drum is a good container for preparing an
emulsion. Fill the drum 1&#8260;3 full of fish guts and waste, then finish
filling it with water. Allow this mixture to rot. Apply this emulsion
at the rate of 3 gallons per 100 square feet (an area 10 feet by
10 feet.) NOTE: This will attract dogs, bears and other creatures.
Burn Animal Bones for Phosphorous
Collect animal bones of any type. Burn them into ash. Spread
this ash over the garden area at the rate of 3 to 5 pounds per
100 square feet. If you burn the bones in a wood fire, the wood
ashes can be part of the applied fertilizer.
Wood Ash for potassium
Wood ashes provide one-third of the three main ingredients.
To insure that there is an adequate amount of potassium in your
garden soil, apply straight wood ashes at the rate of 5 pounds per
100 square feet or 21&#8260;2 quarts per 100 square feet.
If a wood-fueled fire is used to burn the bones, the wood ash
that is mixed with the bone ash can be used as the potassium
source. You will have to estimate what portion of the ashes are
bone and what portion are wood. Apply enough of the combined
ashes to meet the bone ash (phosphorous) requirement, then if
necessary apply more straight wood ash to achieve the potassium
requirement.
PRE-MIXING
Some people like to pre-mix the three ingredients and apply it
as a liquid mix. This will work only if proportions and application
rates are properly figured. By applying each ingredient to the
garden separately it is easier to be sure that your application rate
is correct.
MANURE
Manure is probably the most common natural fertilizer used by
gardeners. Although manure adds other minor nutrients and
improves the physical structure of the soil, nitrogen is the main
nutrient that is added to the soil. Phosphorous and potassium,
either in the form of commercial fertilizer or as bone and wood
ash, should be used in addition to the manure.
Manure may come from poultry, cattle, goats or other animals.
It's a good idea to compost manure before it is used. Pile it
up so that it heats itself and decomposes (rots). See The Compost
Heap in Alaska (ACE # HGA-1-022 for more information on
composting. Be sure to compost horse manure and pig manure.
Horse manure may infest your garden with weeds unless
composted. Do not use dog manure because it contains organisms
that can cause diseases if people eat vegetables fertilized
with it - especially if they are root crops like carrots or potatoes.
APPLICATION TIME
It is best to apply fertilizers in the spring before planting, and
it is usually wise to add more fertilizer about the middle of the
growing period. After the plants begin growing, fertilizer should
not be applied directly to growing plants, but should be placed
alongside each row of plants so that the fertilizer seeps into the
soil without contacting the plant leaves or roots.
Organic fertilizers can be worked into the soil in the fall after
all the garden crops are harvested. There may be some loss of
nitrogen before spring because of runoff or leaching, but much of
the nitrogen will stay in the soil. Fall application is an 
alternative
to storing the fertilizer materials over winter. If organic 
fertilizers
are stored over winter, protect them from water and moisture.
Nutrients can leach out if water runs through the stored fertilizer.
Adding nitrogen in the fall could cause perennial plants (plants
that overwinter and grow again in the spring) to start tender new
growth that would put them in more danger of winter-kill. Therefore,
in the fall avoid putting fish waste or manure on or near any
plants that you expect will grow again the following spring.
FERTILIZER ANALYSIS
The approximate chemical analysis for the home-made fertilizers
described are:
FISH EMULSION - 9 to 10 percent NITROGEN available to the soil
BONE ASH - 22 to 27 percent PHOSPHOROUS
WOOD ASH - 8 percent POTASSIUM
By applying these ingredients separately, you can control the
application rate to fit the soil conditions of your garden - if you
have gotten a soil analysis.

For These Insects Go To This Treatment

Aphids, root flies & cabbage butterflies: Clover Underplanting

Aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles, midges, peach tree borers 
& root maggots: Elder Leaf Insecticide; 

Elder Leaf Insecticide: 
Target insects:Aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles, peach tree 
borers, and root maggots. It is particularly effective against 
midges. Elder leaves also have fungicidal properties and may be 
useful against mildew and blackspot diseases.

To make: simmer 8 ounces of leaves in 16 ounces of water for 30 
minutes. Stir this thoroughly, then strain. Take 16 ounces of warm 
water and mix with 1 tablespoon of castille soap. Add soap mixture to 
the elder water, spray as needed. Note: Set your sprayer to a coarse 
or large droplet setting as this mixture will tend to plug a fine 
setting.

Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, leafhoppers, mites, 
squash bugs, slugs & whiteflies: Garlic Spray;

Garlic Spray
Target insects: Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, 
leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also help 
to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it will 
remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic contains 
naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial agent and 
fungus preventative. Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June 
bugs, leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also 
help to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it 
will remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic 
contains naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial 
agent and fungus preventative. 


All purpose: Great Fleabane Treatment; 
Great Fleabane: (Inula conyza) the leaves and roots of this plant 
make a strong general insecticide. It is also a nice addition to the 
perennial flower bed.

To make: Take one cup of leaves and or roots. Bring 4 cups of water 
to a boil and pour over the fleabane, put a lid on this and let it 
steep for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture, let cool. Mix in a 1/4 
teaspoon of pure soap such as castille, spray. 

Aphids, blister beetles, caterpillars, Colorado beetles, whiteflies, 
soft-bodied insects & maybe even slugs: Horseradish Pesticide;

Horseradish Pesticide
Target insects: Aphids, blister beetles, caterpillars, Colorado 
beetles, whiteflies and soft-bodied insects. Maybe even slugs.

To make: Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, add 2 cups of cayenne 
peppers, a 1 inch piece of chopped horseradish root, and 2 cups of 
packed scented geranium leaves, any kind. Let mixture steep for 1 
hour, cool, strain and spray. Note: this can be made without the 
scented geranium leaves if you don't have them to spare.

NOTE:Penn State University announced in 1995 that minced horseradish 
holds promise in decontaminating wastewater and now says it may clean 
contaminated soils as well!

Penn State's center for Bioremediation and Detoxification reports 
that minced horseradish combined with hydrogen peroxide can 
completely remove chlorinated phenols and other contaminants found in 
industrial wastes. Experiments involve applying the mixture directly 
to tainted soils or growing horseradish in contaminated soil and 
rototilling the roots just before applying hydrogen peroxide!
The cleansing properties of horseradish have been known for more than 
a decade, however creating a purified form has been far too 
expensive. This method has proved to be just as effective, but at a 
fraction of the cost!

Cucumber beetles, mites & all purpose: Lime Spray

Lime Spray
Target insects: Cucumber beetles, mites and general purpose.

To make: Mix 1 ounce of hydrated lime, 32 ounces of water and 1 
teaspoon of castille soap. Use up to twice a week. 
****
Repels asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, leaf cutting & chewing 
insects: Marigold Spray;

Marigold Spray (use pot marigold: Calendula officinalis)
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, leaf 
cutting and chewing insects, like leaf cutting bees on your roses and 
lilacs.

To make: Mash 1 cup of marigold leaves and flowers. Mix with 1 pint 
of water. Let soak for 24 hours. Strain through cheesecloth. Dilute 
further with 1 1/2 quarts of water then add 1/4 teaspoon of castille 
soap. Spray target areas.
****
Aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs & as an ant repellant: Orange Peel 
Spray;

Orange Peel Spray
Oranges and other citrus fruit contain natural ocurring pesticide 
compounds called limonene and linalool. These compounds can be used 
as a treatment for soft bodied pests such as aphids, fungus gnats, 
mealy bugs and as an ant repellant.

To Make: Pour 2 cups of boiling water over peelings of one orange. 
Let this steep for about 24 hours. Strain the mixture into a glass 
jar and toss the peels into the compost. Use this liquid as a spray 
mixing in a few drops of castille soap on target insects or on ants 
and their nests. Smells nice too!
****
All purpose: Pepper and Herb Dusts

Pepper and Herb Dusts
Target Insects: General

Peppers and certain herbs contain the compound "capasaicin" which 
will irritate and repel many insects. Cayenne, chili, dill, paprika, 
red and black peppers can be used as dusts. Purchase the cheapest you 
can find, or grow hot peppers and dill in your garden. Dry them and 
pulverize them in a food processor. Sprinkle on moist plant foliage 
and the surrounding soil. 

Pepper Spray
Target insects: All-purpose

Just like the pepper dusts a spray made from hot peppers will release 
the capasaicin compound to repel insects.

To make:Mix 1/2 cup of finely chopped or ground hot peppers with 1 
pint of water. Let this sit for 24 hours. Use as is for a soil drench 
application or strain the mixture through cheesecloth until you have 
a clear liquid. Add a few drops of castille soap and use as a foliar 
application. Keep away from your eyes and skin when using. 
****
Bad nematodes: Sugar Drench
Sugar Drench
Target insects: Bad nematodes. Sugar also adds trace minerals to the 
soil.

Mix 1/2 a cup of sugar with 1 gallon of water. Stir to dissolve 
sugar. Pour on the soil around plant roots where you have had 
nematode problems or use as a treatment prior to planting.
****
Repels asparagus beetles & flea beetles, will kill earworms & 
maggots, acts as an antifeedent for other insects: Tomato or Potato 
Leaf Spray

Tomato or Potato Leaf Spray
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles and flea beetles.This will 
kill earworms and maggots and acts as an antifeedent for other 
insects.

Plants belonging to the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes etc.) 
have large amounts of compounds called "alkaloids" in their leaves. 
These compounds are water soluble and can be extracted by soaking 
chopped leaves then using as a spray. The toxicity of the alkaloids 
may account for only part of their effectiveness. The sprays may also 
attract beneficial insects that follow the chemicals in these plants 
as a cue in searching for their prey.

To make: Soak 2 cups of chopped tomato leaves in 1 pint of water 
overnight. Strain this mixture then add another pint of water and 1/4 
teaspoon of castille soap a sticker. Spray foliage and soil as 
needed. 
****

Aphids, caterpillars, crawling insects & slugs, may repel snakes:
Wormwood Spray

Wormwood Spray
Target insects: Aphids, caterpillars, crawling insects and slugs. May 
repel snakes.

Caution is advised when using wormwood sprays around plants as it can 
inhibit growth. Best results are obtained when spraying directly onto 
the target insect when possible

Companion Planting: Wormwood or Artemisia

History & Use:
Artemisia has a colorful and rather dubious history: Artemisia was 
the wife and sister (yes, that is correct) of the Greek/Persian King 
Mausolous from which we get the word mausoleum. The genus artemisia 
was named after her and includes over 400 plants. Artemisia was a 
botanist and medical researcher. 

Many of the artemisia varieties have insecticidal properties with 
wormwood being the most potent. Roman wormwood is less toxic and is 
used to flavor the drinks Vermouth and Campari. A sachet made of 
wormwood leaves will keep moths at bay. Did you know that the 
delectable herb tarragon is of the artemisia genus?

Wormwood, Artemisia Absinthium has been used for centuries as a moth 
repellant, general pesticide and as a tea/spray to repel slugs and 
snails. Before its' toxicity was known it was used as the name 
implies: a worming medicine for people and animals. Historic 
references to wormwood go back as far as 1600 B.C. in Egypt. Wormwood 
leaves contain absinthin a substance which can be toxic to other 
plants. You may have heard of the alcoholic drink "absinthe" a green 
colored beverage that is now illegal in most countries. And 
rightfully so as it has been said that the painter Vincent van Gogh 
was imbibing of absinthe when he lopped off his ear to send to a 
woman. The absinthin being water soluble will wash off the leaves and 
leach into the soil interfering and stunting the growth of plants in 
close proximity to the wormwood. Because of this do not use wormwood 
tea as a spray on small plants or seedlings, only on more established 
plants. in using wormwood tea as an insect spray, use it with caution 
until you see how it works for you. For best results spray directly 
on the target insects or use dried wormwood cuttings spread on the 
soil in the garden. Wormwoods are toxic so must not be ingested.

To Make Wormwood Tea:
8 ounces wormwood leaves
4 pints of water
1 teaspoon castille soap

Effective against: Aphids, caterpillars, flea beetles and moths. 
Putting dried sprigs of wormwood in the garden along side carrots 
and onions will mask their scent, confusing insects in particular the 
carrot rust fly. The dried wormwood will not have the growth 
inhibiting effects of the fresh herb. 

Simmer wormwood leaves in the water for 30 minutes. Stir, strain, and 
leave to cool. Add the castille soap to wormwood mixture and use to 
spray. 

Plant Culture:
Hardy to zone 4 and some to zone 3. Capable of growing in poor 
soil with full sun to part shade. Pruning is done in fall with the 
exception of southernwood which is cut back in spring or summer. They 
require full sun and dry well drained soil. Some species will go 
dormant in the summer heat and sprout again when cooler temperatures 
return. This is most prevalent with the silver mound varieties. Don't 
plant wormwoods near anise, beans, caraway, fennel, peas and sage.

Harvesting:
To harvest for future use in insect teas, dried arrangements or 
sachets you will pick the upper portions of the stalks when they are 
in full flower and there is no moisture on the plant. Generally 
flowering occurs after July. Be sure to pick any damaged leaves off 
your stalks. Tie the stem ends together in bundles. Hang them upside 
down in a shady spot. Let them air dry like this for a few days. We 
then put them into glass containers with tightly screwed down lids. 
Store in a dark place.
****

Aphids, mealybugs & other soft-bodied insects: Yarrow Tea

Yarrow Tea
Target insects: Aphids and soft-bodied insects. Also an excellent 
plant tonic!

Yarrow has insecticidal properties and is also an excellent natural 
fertilizer. Try mixing this with strong coffee to make a more 
powerful brew. Caffeine makes the insects hyper and confused. 

To make:
Soak 1 cup of yarrow plant pieces in 16 ounces of water for 
24 hours or more. Brew it in the sun like tea. Strain and mix with 1 
gallon of water. Mix in strongly brewed coffee and 1/4 teaspoon 
castille soap. Spray on aphids and other soft bodied pests every 1-2 
weeks. Or use as a preventative. 
http://www.ghorganics.com/page14.html#Yarrow%20Tea.

From:   Jan Patterson <glpatter@galstar.com> 
Date:  Mon Oct 6, 2003  12:49 pm
Subject:  Foraging Poultry Feed

This information was thoughtfully furnished by Jackie Dill who has given
permission for us to use it on our website. She is currently putting
together a group called Oklahoma Forage Ahead that is in conjuction with
but not a part of the national Forage Ahead group. Once her website is
up and running she has also given permission for us to put a link to her
website for further info. Now the info:

Foraging for poultry feed as a way to extend your feed, just makes good
sense if you have the time. One of my favorite seeds to add to poultry
feed is dock seed. The dock seed will add vitamins A and C to your
feed. The poultry seem to enjoy having this added to their feed. In
Oklahoma we have an abundance of this seed in mid and late summer
months. Many native wild grass seed such as side oats, rye and even
vetch seed help extend the feed. These grases need to be dried then
hand thrashed. Wild pecan, black walnut and hickory nuts added to your
poultry feed help your birds feathers by providing oil. Black walnut
husks, foraged while green, dried and ground then added to your poultry
feed provide a good natural wormer. Many of the wild fruits dried and
added to the feed will provide added vitamins. all of these wild
foraged additives while extending your feed and providing added vitamins
and more, are not meant to be a substitute for a well balanced poultry
feed. Protein levels in poultry feed is very important. We raise our
level to 16 to 18% during moult to help feather growth. Layers are good
at 16% and those destined for the table we
keep at 8 to 10%.

The following is a list of suggested forage seeds for your poultry with
a website where you can view photos of them.

curley dock-Rurnex Crispus
http://alfalfa.okstate.edu/weeds/windbroad/cury_dock/c-dock-83.html

side oats-Bouteloua curtipendula
http://plands.usda.gov/cgi_bin/plant_profile.cgi/symbol=BOCU

tall dropseed-Sporobolus asper
http://www.noble.org/imagegallery/grasshtml/TallDropseed.html

Canadianrye-Elymus Canadensis
http:www.noble.org/imagegallery/grasshtml/CanadaWildrye.html

winterbarley-Hordeum pusillum
http://www. noble.org/imagegallery/grasshtml/LittleBarley.html

partridgepea-Cassia fasciculata
http://www.noble.org/imagegallery/forbhtml/PartridgePeal.html

big bluestem-Andropogon gerardii
http://www.agr.okstate.edu/forage/images/nativews/bigbluestem/bigbluestem.html

eastern gamagrass-Tripsacum dactyloids L
http://www.agr.okstate.edu/forage/images/nativews/egammagrass.html

Prairie Sand Reed-Calamovilfa longifolia
http://forage.okstate.edu/images/nativews/prsandreed/prairiesandreed.htm 
If you live in a cold climate where the temperatures stay below freezing for 
most of the winter, you can store you garden produce outdoors.  The vegetables
can be kept in shallow pits, in small barrels, nail kegs or in unused cold 
frames.  

Outdoor storage is not suitable in climates where winter temperatures
stay above freezing for several days at a time or where winter rains are 
frequent.  If using kegs or barrels, line them with clean straw,
then add the vegetables.  Cover the vegetables with more straw or dried leaves.  
Pile on enough soil to prevent freezing.

If you dig storage pits, locate them in an area with well draining soil.  Dig 
the pit no more than 1 foot deep and line with straw.  Place the vegetables in
a conical mound and cover them with 6" of straw.  Then add 3" of soil.  Allow a 
bit of the straw to poke through the soil for good ventilation.  As the
cold weather becomes more severe, add 5-6" more of soil.  When the surface 
freezes, 6-8" of manure will help to generate heat.

Once you open the pit or barrel, all the vegetables must be used, so it's a good 
idea to make plenty of small storage areas or containers instead of only a few 
large ones.
Source: USDA
Fruit and nut tree companioning

companion orcharding is great, Mike. You don't have to stop with 
just cover crops and weed companioning, either. I've seen beautiful 
productive orchards with garden rows between the fruit and nut 
trees. The veggies and herbs between the rows were on soaker hoses, 
which would branch out to a drip fixture to each tree, and there were 
cover crops underneath the trees. The single row was narrow enough 
to reach to the middle from both sides, and raised a bit, making it 
easier to tend. Many of their herbs and veggies were allowed to bolt 
and set seet, providing plenty of space for beneficials, along with 
the clover and vetch under the trees. 

Tansy (f you surround the tansy plants with yarrow plants, they tend 
to duke it out between themselves and don't seem so invasive 
elsewhere), pennyroyal, horehound, nasturtiums, chives, mint, 
marigolds, angelica, chamomile, elderberries (great companion for 
peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries...etc...), comfrey and 
stinging nettle (chop some up and make a tea from them and you have 
an excellent calcium foliar spray which also deterrs insects. Also, 
comfrey can be planted as a border around gardens or orchards as an 
excellent fire barrier, or barrier against a very invasive noxious 
weed), lupines(around apple trees), horseradsh (helps combat fungal 
problems), clover (great trap crop for wooly aphid), hot peppers, 
rue, and asparagus plant around the base of trees to deter climbing 
borers).

Strawberries, especially the wild northern strawberries, make a great 
groundcover around the base of trees, and are edible, too. Planting 
understory fruit and nut bushes, like currants, blueberries, 
lingonberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, hazlenuts, quince, 
aronia, amelanchier, or ribes, on to three bushes per two trees is 
another way of companioning your fruit trees.

With all those fruit and nut trees, make sure to interplant the 
occasional black locust, especially if you are going to plant walnut, 
butternut, or any other nut with juglone. A border of black locust 
around the nut trees will help the growth and production of the nut 
trees, AND provide a barrier between the juglone producing plants and 
other plants which might not do well under their influence. 

Don't forget the ANIMAL companions to fruit trees! Keeping chickens 
and/or ducks or guinea fowl around the trees helps to keep the insect 
and weed population at bay. Since keeping tall plants away from the 
trunks is advisable, a portable pen keeping the poultry around the 
trunks of the trees where they can scratch and shred the weeds 
looking for bugs is a great idea. Even varmints like rabbits and 
guinea pigs can nibble around at the greens at the base of the tree, 
and provide an all natural fertilizer in the process. Most 
importantly, however, an integrated orchard is ideal for beehives!
From:   "cynthia brennemann" <thornkell@charter.net> 
Date:  Sat Jul 19, 2003  8:51 am
Important fruit tree rootstocks for garden use and
their effects on tree size:

FRUIT Rootstock CHARACTERISTICS:

Apple M.27 Very dwarfing (tree attains 1.5m);
only suitable for very good soils;
requires permanent stake.
M.9 Dwarfing (tree attains
2m); the best rootstock
for general garden use;
requires permanent stake.
M.26 Semi-dwarfing (tree attains 2.5m); good
for
poorer soils.
MM.106 Semi-vigorous (tree attains 3-4m); better
than
M.26 for weaker cultivars.

Pear Quince C Moderately dwarfing (tree
attains 3-5m); best for
general garden use but
not for poor soils.
Quince A Moderately vigorous tree
(tree attains 4-5m);
best for poorer soils.

Plum Pixy Dwarfing (tree attains
2-3m but must be pruned
to achieve this restriction).
St Julien A Semi-dwarfing (tree attains 3m but must
be
pruned to achieve this
restriction).

Cherry Colt Semi-vigorous (tree attains 3m but must be
pruned to achieve this
restriction).
F 12/1 Vigorous (tree attains 10m).

Damson Pixy See plum
St Julien A See plum

Peach St Julien A See plum

Quince Own roots

Medlar Own roots



BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil can be 
helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and 
mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or 
grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other 
deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: 
Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint. For ladybug 
invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they 
are getting in and they should leave.

BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In 
general they are good company for carrots, brassicas, beets, and 
cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. 
French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Keep 
beans away from the alliums. 

BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and 
flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty 
perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.

BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed 
of 25% magnesium. Companions are lettuce, onions and brassicas.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters 
tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp 
attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good 
addition the compost pile. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing 
next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. After you 
have planned this annual once it will self seed.

BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and 
rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.

BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover 
crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots. 
Tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial 
insects.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, 
ants and weevils. Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want 
deter mice and ants. Smells good and very safe.

CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and 
onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium 
and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil 
production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German 
chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing 
perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like 
full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for 
anything you grow in the garden.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor. Keeps 
aphids off lettuce. Likes shade.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes . Chives 
may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among 
apple trees it may help prevent scab. A tea of chives may be used on 
cucumbers to prevent downy mildew.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) 
It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used 
as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White 
flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.

CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion. Attracts 
many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract 
predators of the woolly aphid.

COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet 
spots to grow in. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for 
slugs.

Comfrey while useful as a slug trap has many other qualities you may 
find of value. It is a very hardy perennial. It will grow in moist 
areas and has the ability to clean and extract nutrients from 
stagnant or foul water. It sends down long tap roots that can go as 
deep as 10 feet enabling it to accumulate minerals in its' leaves. 
These minerals include potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and 
phosphorus along with vitamins A, C, and B-12. The leaves contain 
tons of protein as previously mentioned. When comfrey leaves are 
composted and returned to enrich the soil all these elements are made 
available to your plants.

Medicinal qualities: Comfrey has many healing properties to it. 
Briefly the roots and leaves contain allantoin. Allantoin is a 
protein with hormonal like qualities to it that stimulate cell 
proliferation. It is the allantoin that gives comfrey its' reputation 
for healing wounds, broken bones, burns, sprains, sore joints, dry 
skin and for reducing the swelling associated with fractures. Fresh, 
clean comfrey leaves can be used in a poultice to treat these 
injuries. Comfrey salves are readily available from health food 
stores. It is not recommended to take comfrey internally as liver 
damage has been known to occur from extended ingestion.
Topical use is safe as the alkaloids will not penetrate the skin.

Comfrey fertilizer: With its' high levels of potash comfrey tea can 
be used as an excellent fertilizer for tomato, pepper, cucumber and 
potato plants. The smell while it is "cooking" is strong. Pick a good 
sized handful of leaves. Place them in a container with enough water 
to cover the leaves. Cover and let this cook for 4 weeks in cool 
weather or 2 weeks in hot weather. Then squeeze the leaves to extract 
as much juice as possible Strain and use at a rate of 1/3 cup 0f 
comfrey juice to one gallon of water Use as a foliar feed and soil 
drench around the plants. Put the solid wastes into the compost pile.

Dried or fresh comfrey leaves have the following percentages of NPK:

Nitrogen: 0.75% Phosphorous: 0.25% Potash: 0.2% 

Culture: 

Light: Full sun with some types accepting partial shade. 
Soil: Preferably nitrogen rich with a fairly neutral pH. 
Planting: Set plants 2 feet apart in an area where you can spare the 
space for them. Once you have planted comfrey it is there to stay. 
Feeding: For plants that are harvested often do keep them well fed. 
Disease: Comfrey Rust (Melampsorella symphyti) is the biggest problem 
with comfrey. If you see rust starting immediately remove any 
infested leaves and destroy. Give the plants a good dose of 
potassium like some wood ashes. Follow with a good organic 
fertilizer. Allow ample space for air movement among the plants. 
There are some different varieties of comfrey available:
Common comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
The most widely used comfrey with clusters of bell-shaped flowers in 
white, purple, mauve or rose. This is the most invasive variety of 
comfrey.

Russian comfrey (S.x uplandicum)
Russian comfreys have the highest levels of protein and allantoin.
Bocking No. 4: Grown generally as a fodder for poultry.
Bocking No. 14: This type has the most allantoin and is said to be 
the least invasive. We have been told that Bocking No. 14 will pretty 
much stay where you put it. This would make it the best choice for 
the home gardener. It does show a good resistance to rust which is 
often a problem with comfreys and it can tolerate a low level of the 
disease without harming the plants growth.

Ornamental comfreys
Creeping comfrey (S. grandiflorum): A low maintenance groundcover 
with light yellow flowers and crinkly leaves. Will tolerate shade and 
chokes out the weeds. May be a good choice for the north side of a 
wall or house.

Goldsmith comfrey (S. grandiflorum "Goldsmith"): Another less 
invasive type with light yellow flowers and variegated leaves. Grows 
to 12 inches in height.

Red comfrey (S. officinale "Rubrum"): Red flowers, wow! Will also 
grow in shade and has a compact growth habit.
(cont.)

CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from 
this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.

COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family 
helps to repel moths.

DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner 
plate size flowers repels nematodes.

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near 
carrots. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory 
wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel 
the dreaded squash bug! Scatter some good size dill leaves on plants 
that are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants. Dill goes well 
with onions and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so 
it would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants 
to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. Plant it for the 
swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their 
caterpillars are beautiful.

ELDERBERRY: A spray made from the leaves can be used against aphids, 
carrot root fly, cuke beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and 
leaves in mole runs to banish them. 

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and 
linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an 
annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily 
self sows. 

FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draw Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on 
the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live 
to have dessert! It is important to mention that four-o"clocks are 
also poisonous to humans. Please be careful where you plant them if 
you have children. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 
feet high with a bushy growth form.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a 
naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with 
disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up 
the plants through their pores and when used as a soil drench is also 
taken up by the roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese 
beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have 
observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of 
fruit trees actually kept deer away. Concentrated garlic sprays have 
been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats 
among others with as little as an 6-8% contentration. It is safe for 
use on orchids too.

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away 
Colorado potato bugs. There are some very effective insect sprays 
that can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep 
horseradish contained. Also repels Blister beetles. The root can 
yield antifungal properties when a tea is made from it. 

HOREHOUND: Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths 
and flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the 
number one preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive 
with it to encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as 
invasive as other members of the mint family making it safer for 
interplanting.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile 
sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In 
particular kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away 
when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation 
times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs 
away.

LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will 
attract Japanese beetles. Larkspur is poisonous to humans too.

LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender 
nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Use dried 
sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from 
cuttings, setting out in spring.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder 
mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that 
make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep 
mosquitoes away. Use to ward off squash bugs.

LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for 
ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar 
to celery in flavor.

MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. 
Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many 
insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose 
must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that 
marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.

French Marigold (T. Patula) has roots that exude a substance which 
spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode 
control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some 
studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for 
several years after the plants were. These marigolds also help to 
deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in 
greenhouses for the same purpose.

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect 
repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind 
weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies. 
Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans 
and cabbage. 

MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables 
and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, 
aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings 
as a mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts 
hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to 
mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an 
incredibly invasive perennial. 

MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here 
and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to 
drive them away. This is a poisonous plant.

MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast 
growing annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an 
excellent choice.

OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel 
hornworms.

NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, 
cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, 
squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the curcurbit family. 
Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it 
does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor 
soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of 
some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root 
zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of 
the plants and repel bugs. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A 
nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white 
variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and 
wonderful in salads!

NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these 
are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves 
their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes 
an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. 
Hairs on the nettles' leaves contain formic acid which "stings" you.

PARSLEY: Plant among and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as 
a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go 
to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps. Parsley increases the 
fragrance of roses when planted around their base. 

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It 
is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. 
Bees and other good guys love it.

PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot 
and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. 
Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays.

PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. Many people are now using pennyroyal as an 
alternative lawn. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin 
will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Smells nice 
too.

PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain 
aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. 
A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be 
used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. 
Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed 
pod for caper substitutes.

RADISH: Plant radishes with your squash plants. Radishes may protect 
them from squash borers. Anything that will help prevent this is 
worth a try. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed 
will help fight corn borers.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters 
cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place 
by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can 
overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.

RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. To make it 
even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to 
release the smell. Repels flies and has helped repel cats. Some say 
you should not plant it near cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty 
perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny 
window. Rue can cause skin irritation! 

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, 
cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea 
beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers or rue. Sage 
repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower 
will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. 
There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated 
foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical 
qualities.

Companion Planting: Sage

Sage can be planted with cabbage, carrots, strawberries and tomatoes 
to enhance their growth. Prune severely in the early spring to 
encourage bushy growth. As they get older they can become very woody 
and less productive. At this time you can divide the older plants 
using the new exterior growth for new plants. Discard the old crown. 
Growing sage from seed is a difficult task.

Sage is hardy from zone 4 to 8. Likes full sun and well drained 
garden soil.

Sage has natural antibacterial properties to it and has been used as 
a preservative for meat and poultry. It has a somewhat bitter flavor 
to it. The new leaves go well in salads, soup, marinades and 
stuffings. Try a little sage on oranges or Brussels sprouts for an 
unusual flavor!

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. 
Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots 
easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer. It is a perennial 
that can get quite bushy. A delightful plant that is virtually pest 
free.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and 
flavor. Discourages cabbage moths. Honey bees love it.

SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase 
the yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here 
and there in the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids 
onto them. 

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind 
that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants.

Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on 
sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and 
marching into the kitchen. Placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse 
door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, 
striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice. Tie up and hang 
a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as 
a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will 
bounce back from any abuse heaped on it. It is also a helpful 
addition to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.

Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock 
can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to 
seed either as it may germinate in livestock fields. 

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. 
Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful 
groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the 
garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from 
seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.

WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese 
beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. 
An excellent deterrent to most insects. A tea made from wormwood will 
repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas 
effectively. The two best varieties for making insect spray are 
Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts 
ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is 
great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note: As 
wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly 
on food crops. We personally have seen no evidence of artemisias 
suppressing the growth of plants other than seedlings though many say 
it does. Even with the silver mound artemisia

YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent 
natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost 
pile really speeds things up. Try it. It also attracts predatory 
wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential 
oil content of herbs when planted among them. Yarrow has so many 
wonderful properties.
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html.


Grafting success is influenced by plant conditions, prevailing environment, and 
experience of the operator.  Grafting is a skill, and thus some operators are 
able to perform it more successfully than others.

Plant Conditions:
Compatibility~the two plants to be united must be compatible ( graft 
compatibility ).  Even though this union is physical, the two plants should be 
as closely related genetically as possible for success.  It is easiest to stay 
within species and graft apples onto apples.  However, in certain cases, 
interspecies grafting is successful, as in the case of some almonds and plums, 
which are successful as scions on peach rootstocks.
Diameter of Parts~the stock diameter must be equal to or larger than the scion 
diameter.  The scion is usually larger than the size of a regular pencil, but 
some methods of grafting use larger stocks so that several scions can be grafted 
onto one stock.  Scions are usually derived from healthy one year old plants.
Physiological State~grafting is usually done using dormant plants.  These plants 
have no leaves ( except in the case of evergreens ).  In some cases, the 
rootstock may be actively growing, but the scion should not be growing.
Alignment of Tissues~since grafting is a physical union that depends on the 
healing of the cut surfaces ( wounds )through mitotic division, the cambium 
tissues of both parts must be properly aligned.  They must make contact over as 
wide an area as possible.  If the tissues are not aligned properly, the graft 
will fail.  The graft junction may be tied to keep the alignment in place 
throughout the healing period.

Environment:
The worst environmental enemy of a new graft is desiccation.  Therefore, a newly 
made graft should be waterproofed.  After tying, grafting wax may be applied 
over the entire surface.  Some operators use plastic or rubber ties instead of 
wax.  Either way, the purpose is to prevent desiccation from occurring at the 
graft junction.

The Operator:
In addition to all of the mentioned factors, the operator should always use a 
sharp knife and make sharp, clean cuts to ensure good contact of tissue.  A more 
experienced operator is likely to have greater success than a novice at 
grafting.



Grow Plants From Cuttings 

Choose and mix the preferred medium for the plant you have chosen. 

If possible, have the planting medium prepared in the pot when you take the 
cutting. If this isn't possible, temporarily wrap the cuttings in wet paper 
towels, then cover in newspaper or a plastic bag.

Use a sharp knife to take the cutting, and don't make the cutting too large. 
Four leaf nodes (leaf joints) are usually sufficient. 

Cut the leaves from the portion of the cutting that will be immersed in the 
medium.

Apply a rooting hormone (or a willow water soaking) around the bottom of the 
cutting.

Use a pencil to poke a hole in the planting medium. If several cuttings will fit 
in the pot, poke several holes.

Carefully slip the cutting(s) in the hole(s) so that the bottom 2 leaf nodes are 
below the soil line.

Gently firm the medium to remove any air pockets.

Water with a very gentle spray making sure that the entire pot is well soaked.
 
Cover with plastic and place in indirect light until rooted.

Watch closely for new growth for the next 2 or 3 weeks.

When tiny new leaves have formed, remove the plant from the medium by gently 
tugging a larger leaf.

Place each rooted cutting in it's own pot of planting medium.

Water well.

When all danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed, transplant to the 
garden.

Tips:
Don't take cuttings from diseased or wilted plants. 
Remove any flowers or flower buds from the cutting.
Place in indirect light until rooted. 
Slowly acclimate them to brighter light, increasing exposure few days until 
they're ready to transplant to the garden. 
Grow your own plant nutrients

for this:   Plant these:

Sulfur: mustard, fennel, and plantain 
Magnesium--mullein, sow thistle, carrot leaves 
Silica (not an established plant nutrient, but interesting)--borage, horsetail, 
bamboo
Zinc--vetch, alfalfa
Molybdenum--vetch, peach tree clippings, cornstalks
Iron--groundsel, strawberry leaves
Cobalt--vetch, most legumes
Boron--sweet clover, muskmelon leaves
Copper--dandelions, spinach
Carbon--sunflowers, beets, mangles, daikon 
Potassium--fennel, borage, chamomile, yarrow
Phosphorous--marigold, chickweed, lemon balm, buckwheat, mustard
Nitrogen--legumes, stinging nettle, kelp, cattail reeds, Elaeagenus,
fenugreek, carob
Manganese--rhododendron, bracken
Calcium--chicory, arrowroot

In addition to these nutrients, oxygen, hydrogen, and (in some desert and
salt-marsh species) sodium are required. Under most conditions, plants do not 
seem to have much trouble getting oxygen and hydrogen.
From:  "Jon Wood" <backwaterjon@yahoo.com> 
Date:  Wed Feb 25, 2004  1:19 am
Subject:  Re: plexiglass-&-tire gardening
CHAHTAHOLILIABI
<LadyHawk@r...> wrote:

Jon could you tell me more on what you treat your tires
with to plant in? I tried it last year trying the
stacking method with potatoes but it didn't work does
it nee to be in full sun light? Thanks I'm going to
pick your brain!
************
I don't know what state or zone you are in: so I will tell you what I
do in Kentucky zone 6:

Depending on the size of the tire/s, I first wash them. If they are
small enough for me to get them in my pickup truck, I'll take them to
a car wash and wash them under pressure with soap then rinse with
water. Inside the tire and outside as well, making sure the tread is
free from road grim and grit.

That done, I bring the back to the cabin and decide where I'll sit
the tire/s.

Let's presume it's now: Feb. 25th., 2004. Even tho I've already
planted 4 big tires with potatoes, and have one large potato bed
planted covered with leaves: I'd sit the tire away from the
prevailing winds, which, here, would be on the south west corner of
the cabin, using the cabin as the wind break.

Make sure the spot you select will be free of most foot traffic and
out of the way of the cabins activities for as the weather warms, if
your home is like my cabin, there's much action outside as the temps
rise.

Press down any taller growth such as clover or grass, and lay a thick
mat of saturated newspapers over the grass. Over this put down 2
layers of cardboard: one long ways, the other cross ways: you can cut
the cardboard away AFTER you position the tire/s on top the
cardboard. The newspaper soon melts into the soil, but the cardboard
hangs around for awhile, giving added protection against weed and
grass that would come up into the tire, and also protect the tender
plants from things such as voles.

Whether or not you trim away the rim of the top tire is your
decision. Some tires I do trim, others I do not. The bigger the tire
is the more likely I am to trim away the sidewall up to its tread.

I'd give the tire/s a slight tilt so sun will hit directly into the
tires center. Wet the cardboard down really good then start stuffing
newspapers, leaves, straw, corncobs, sawdust or whatever you have
that will absorb moisture into the inner rim of the tire/s so when
rains come, the organic material will take up the excess moisture and
hold it til the plants need it the most: moisture will "wick" away
from the inner rim into the main tire container area, keeping the
roots thirst saited.

Once the rim is packed with such materials you have on hand or can
obtain at no cost to you or for little cost, crumble your topsoil,
potting soil (how-to make your own potting soil recipe is in OHG'S
files) and cover the cardboard with 3 or soil inches of this mixture,
then seat your potato seed into that mixture.

I always add a dusting of hardwood ashes I've kept from the wood
stove over the potatoes. Potash is very good for root crops.

Once your potatoes are in place, dusted with wood ash, cover with a
layer (not pressed down) of wheat straw, shredded newspapers,
compost, or whatever mulch you'll be using, then cover the top hole
with a piece of glass, Plexiglas, or you can rig clear plastic over
the top if you have nothing else to use. Glass and/or Plexiglas is
ever so much easier on you the gardener, than using the plastic cover
is. Because the bed must be watered weekly unless rainfall measures
1-inch. You never want the soil to dry out, and potatoes (sweet and
Irish) need much water to return you a sizeable crop.

Irish potatoes need only 4-inches of top growth. When you tater
vines/plants reach 6-inches tall, it's time to add a 2-inch layer of
mulch, and snug it up around the potato plant stems. When it's time,
add another tire on top of the first one. And just keep adding mulch,
water, and tires until the stack grows 5-6 tires tall. You may need
to drive a wooden stay on 2 or 3 sides of the tires so they won't
blow over when storms come, or when you brush against them, or dogs
hit them while chasing a ball, or........

Once night temps no longer offer a chance of frost, you can omit the
glass top: if you have predators who might eat the tater vine, you
can use an old storm window SCREEN instead of the glass top. And
when the temps get around or above 80 degrees, put a layer of
newspaper around the upper edge of the topmost tire: this deflects
heat away from the tire and preserves inner moisture as well.

The first blooms that form, I pinch off. This pours more growth to
the roots which is what'll you'll harvest anyhow. The 2nd set of
blooms, I allow to form and soon after the vines will begin to dry
and become mulch. You can "dig" your taters by removing one tire at
a time.

If you'll prepare another tire spot before unloading your tater tire,
as soon as you remove one tire, you can roll it over on top of the
cardboard spot you've just made beside your tater tire, and by the
time your potatoes are all lying out on the ground, you'll have
another tater tower built ready to plant into again to make another
crop of late fall taters to harvest just before a hard freeze hits
your area...depending, of course, on just what area that is.

Hope that helps.
Jon












Home Made Seed Tapes

   One of my favorite winter activities. 

I get rolls of paper towels, or rolls of toilet paper and roll out a length. 
Then I take cornstarch or flour and water (you can mix in compost or manure tea, 
if you like) till it is a thick paste. 

Then I dot the paste onto the paper roll, and place a single seed on each 
generous dot of cornstarch paste. You can do monculture rows of seeds, perfectly 
spaced, or you can mix it up into strips. 

The paper towels are the perfect width for a border mix, or for mixing it up and 
doing interplanting. When it dries, you roll it up gently (you can cut or 
tear it to the exact length you need) and put it in a ziploc, or a 
shoebox, or any kind of seed storage device. 

Then work on your next one. When it is time to plant... place the paper towel 
seed side down on the soil and water it in. The seeds don't wash away, and the 
soil doesn't dry out so bad. 

You can also use threadbare rags, by the way. I've had material so thin it was 
about to waste away, and used it, and by the end of the growing season, it had 
rotted right down into the soil. 

Just make sure you aren't using a nylon, or other non-organic fabric that will 
cause problems.
From: cynthia brennemann thornkell@charter.net

Homeland Security Color Coded System and its Meaning 
Gov. Ridge Announces Homeland Security Advisory System 

The Homeland Security Advisory System will provide a comprehensive and effective 
means to disseminate information regarding the risk of terrorist attacks to 
Federal, State, and local authorities and to the American people. 

As part of a series of initiatives to improve coordination and communication 
among all levels of government and the American public in the fight against 
terrorism, President Bush signed Homeland Security Presidential Directive 3, 
creating the Homeland Security Advisory System (HSAS). The advisory system will 
be the foundation for building a comprehensive and effective communications 
structure for the dissemination of information regarding the risk of terrorist 
attacks to all levels of government and the American people. 

The Attorney General will be responsible for developing, implementing and 
managing the system. In conjunction with the development of this new system, the 
Attorney General will open a 45-day comment period in order to seek the views of 
officials at all levels of government, law enforcement and the American public. 
Ninety days after the conclusion of the comment period, the Attorney General in 
coordination with the Director of the Office of Homeland Security -- will 
present a final Homeland Security Advisory System to the President for approval. 
The Homeland Security Advisory System will provide the following: 

National framework for Federal, State, and local governments, private industry 
and the public. There are many federal alert systems in our country -- each 
tailored and unique to different sectors of our society: transportation , 
defense, agriculture, and weather, for example. These alert systems fill vital 
and specific requirements for a variety of situations in both the commercial and 
government sectors. The Homeland Security Advisory System will provide a 
national framework for these systems, allowing government officials and citizens 
to communicate the nature and degree of terrorist threats. This advisory system 
characterizes appropriate levels of vigilance, preparedness and readiness in a 
series of graduated Threat Conditions. The Protective Measures that correspond 
to each Threat Condition will help the government and citizens decide what 
action they take to help counter and respond to terrorist activity. Based on the 
threat level, Federal agencies will implement appropriate Protective Measures. 
States and localities will be encouraged to adopt compatible systems. 

Factors for assignment of Threat Conditions. The Homeland Security Advisory 
System will provide a framework for the Attorney General, in consultation with 
the Director of the Office of Homeland Security, to assign Threat Conditions, 
which can apply nationally, regionally, by sector or to a potential target. 
Cabinet Secretaries and other members of the Homeland Security Council will be 
consulted as appropriate. A variety of factors may be used to assess the threat. 
Among these: 

Is the threat credible? 
Is the threat corroborated? 
Is the threat specific and/or imminent? 
How grave is the threat? 
Unified system for public announcements. Public announcements of threat 
advisories and alerts help deter terrorist activity, notify law enforcement and 
State and local government officials of threats, inform the public about 
government preparations, and provide them with the information necessary to 
respond to the threat. State and local officials will be informed in advance of 
national threat advisories when possible. The Attorney General will develop a 
system for conveying relevant information to Federal, State, and local 
officials, and the private sector expeditiously. Heightened Threat Conditions 
can be declared for the entire nation, or for a specific geographic area, 
functional or industrial sector. Changes in assigned Threat Conditions will be 
made when necessary. 

A tool to combat terrorism. Threat Conditions characterize the risk of terrorist 
attack. Protective Measures are the steps that will be taken by government and 
the private sector to reduce vulnerabilities. The HSAS establishes five Threat 
Conditions with associated suggested Protective Measures: 


Low Condition
Green
Low risk of terrorist attacks. The following Protective Measures may be applied: 

Refining and exercising preplanned Protective Measures 
Ensuring personnel receive training on HSAS, departmental, or agency-specific 
Protective Measures; and 
Regularly assessing facilities for vulnerabilities and taking measures to reduce 
them. 

Guarded Condition 
Blue
General risk of terrorist attack. In addition to the previously outlined 
Protective Measures, the following may be applied: 

Checking communications with designated emergency response or command locations; 
Reviewing and updating emergency response procedures; and 
Providing the public with necessary information. 

Elevated Condition
Yellow
Significant risk of terrorist attacks. In addition to the previously outlined 
Protective Measures, the following may be applied: 

Increasing surveillance of critical locations; 
Coordinating emergency plans with nearby jurisdictions; 
Assessing further refinement of Protective Measures within the context of the 
current threat information; and 
Implementing, as appropriate, contingency and emergency response plans. 

High Condition
Orange 
High risk of terrorist attacks. In addition to the previously outlined 
Protective Measures, the following may be applied: 

Coordinating necessary security efforts with armed forces or law enforcement 
agencies; 
Taking additional precaution at public events; 
Preparing to work at an alternate site or with a dispersed workforce; and 
Restricting access to essential personnel only. 

Severe Condition
Red
Severe risk of terrorist attacks. In addition to the previously outlined 
Protective Measures, the following may be applied: 

Assigning emergency response personnel and pre-positioning specially trained 
teams; Monitoring, redirecting or constraining transportation systems; 
Closing public and government facilities; and 
Increasing or redirecting personnel to address critical emergency needs. 

 
 
NEWS ADVISORY
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Liquid Organic Fertilizer

You need either a sock without holes or a square of fabric about 10 inches 
square, a piece of string about 2 feet long, a jug (with cap) capable of holding 
just over a gallon of water and a package of dehydrated granulated manure.

Pour a 1/3 of a cup of the manure into the sock or the center of the fabric. 
Pull up the ends of the fabric until you have the manure held in a loose "pouch" 
and tie the pouch closed with one end of the string.

Pour a gallon of room temperature water into the jug and drop the manure pouch 
into it with the string hanging out like a big tea bag. Put the cap on loosely 
and let the "tea" "brew" for a day or two.

The water will turn the same color as the manure which indicates that the manure 
has partially dissolved and released nutrients into the water. Congrats! you now 
have a concentrate. You can mix the used manure into some soil since it still 
has nutrients in it.

Dehydrated, granulated manure doesn't stink, except for when its wet. Use this 
stuff quickly because it starts to stink after a day or two and scum begins 
forming on the surface (we used manure, remember.)

To use, pour about a cup of the concentrate into a gallon of water and water 
your veggies with it. The best time to use it is about once every two or three 
weeks throughout the season and especially when produce is starting to form and 
ripen.

Pour around the base of plants, or use it as a foliar spray.


Paint Recipe

1 Quart skim milk (room temperature)
1 Ounce of hydrated lime by weight

Do not use quick lime, as it will react with the water and heat up. Hydrated 
lime has been soaked in water then dried.
1 to 2 1/2 pounds of chalk may also be added as a filler.

Stir in enough skim milk to hydrated lime to make a cream. Add balance of skim 
milk. Now add sufficient amount of powder pigment to desired color and 
consistency (Pigment powder must be lime proof)-You can also use homegrown dye 
for pigments and grow your own as well. Stir in well for a few minutes before 
using. For best results continue to stir throughout use. Apply milk paint with a 
cheap natural bristle brush. Allow project to dry sufficiently before applying 
next coat. Extra paint may be kept for several days in the refrigerator, until 
the milk sours. Double or triple the recipe for paint. Allow to dry thoroughly 
3-4 hours before use. For extra protection, give paint a coat of oil finish or 
sealer. Color may change so test in inconspicuous area. 
Homemade Soap #1

5 cups cold water
1 can lye
1/2 cup borax
1/2 cup ammonia
2 drops sassafras oil
11 cups fat

To 5 cups of cold water add 1 can of lye. When lukewarm, add 1/2
cup of borax and 1/2 cup ammonia. Stir in thoroughly, then add sassafras oil for 
aroma. Stir in 11 cups of lukewarm fat and stir for 10 minutes until it looks 
like butterscotch. Pour into container and let harden for 36 hours. Cut into 
bars.
Homemade Soap #2

2 1/2 pints coldwater
1 can Red Devil lye
6 pounds shortening
A basin to mix in
Crock for dissolving lye in
2 wooden spoons 
Cardboard box
Plastic wrap

None of these items will be able to be used except for making soap due to the 
nature of the ingredients. Fill sink with cold water about 2/3
up the crock sides. Fill the crock with the 1 1/2 pints of cold water. Slowly 
stir in the can of lye until completely dissolved. Keep in sink for 1 hour to 
cool. Take the 6 pounds of shortening and melt slowly
into a pot. Allow to cool for 1 hour. When both the lye and the shortening are 
cooled to room temperature, pour melted shortening into a basin. Slowly pour lye 
into the basin and keep stirring for about 10 minutes. Pour combined mixture 
into a box lined with plastic wrap and place in a cool, dry area. The next day 
you can cut the soap into bars but you cannot remove them from the form for at 
least 3 days. Remove from box and allow the other side of soap to dry another 
day or two.
Wrap in paper to store for use.
Homemade Soap #3

5 cups coldwater
Add: 1 can lye
When lukewarm, add:
1/2 cup borax
1/2 cup ammonia

Stir thoroughly. Then add 25 cents worth 
of sassafras oil. Stir in 11 cups of lukewarm 
fat and keep stirring for 10 minutes until 
mixture resembles thick butterscotch. Pour into 
container; allow to harden 36 hours. Cut into bars.
From:    tenzicut@yahoo.com (tenzicut)
 


"How long will this keep?"  This is the defining question of food
storage.  Everything you will read in this work evolves from this
central question.  The length of time a particular food will remain
palatable and nutritious in storage determines its usefulness for our
purposes.  The fact of the matter is that there are few hard and clear
answers.  As a result it is not uncommon to find two or more sources 
who
purport to know, but that give conflicting data.  The following will
hopefully cut through some of the fog.


     A. "BEST USED", "USE BY" AND OTHER FOOD PRODUCT DATES

     Although there are some twenty States in the U.S. that have food
product dating laws the Federal government has little regulation
concerning food product dating except for infant formulas and some 
baby
foods.  It does, however, require that if a manufacturer puts a 
calendar
date on a food product it must also put wording to the effect of "use
by" or "best before" next to it to explain what the date means.  This 
is
called "open dating" which is to say that it is a plain, easy to read
calendar date rather than "closed or coded dating" that must be
deciphered.  Another date also commonly seen is the "sell by" date.
While not as useful for food storage, it does have importance for
day-to-day fresh food purchases.

     Because the Federal government has so few food product dating
standards manufacturers use their own to determine acceptable shelf
lives.  For the most part, they are based upon changes in texture,
appearance, taste and cooking qualities.  When a food item begins to
exhibit signs of aging that would make it unappealing to customers 
then
it is considered to be at the end of its marketable shelf life.  Look
for statements such as "use by", "best if used by", "best if used
before" or similar wording to find this date.  For shelf stable and
frozen products it must include both the month, day and year.  These
dates are useful for determining how long a product can be retained in
the storage program before it should be rotated out.  When a food 
begins
to undergo taste and appearance degradation the nutrient content will
have begun to seriously fade and the time will have come to use it up 
so
it can be replaced with fresh stock.  If the product was properly
preserved and not subjected to extreme storage conditions it is not
unsafe to use after this date.  If there is nothing to replace it with
it may be kept, but its palatability and nutritive content will just
continue to degrade.

     Fresh food items such as meat, milk and eggs use a "sell by" date
which simply means that the item should not be purchased beyond that
date.  Products using this date type are only required to use the day
and month.  Provided that it was properly transported and stored, an
item kept past this date is not unsafe to use, but will begin to 
exhibit
signs of aging that will make it unappealing and should be frozen or
consumed shortly thereafter.

NOTE:    The shelf life of any food, whether indicated with a "use by"
         or "sell by" date or found on some chart, is predicated upon
assumed storage conditions.  If the actual storage conditions are
different from the assumed storage conditions then the shelf life will
naturally vary. As is explained in *Section I:  Time, Temperature,
Moisture, Oxygen and Light*, environmental storage conditions have a
major impact on the length of time any foodstuff will remain 
palatable,
nutritious and even whether it will remain safe.

     As a general rule, when a shelf life is given, it is for 
conditions
of 70 deg. F in a dark, dry location unless stated otherwise.  Be sure
to read the fine print on any shelf life chart you may come across to
see what its values are predicated upon.  There are some floating 
around
giving shelf lives of foods in storage temperatures as low as 40 deg. 
F.
At that temperature you would expect to keep your fresh butter, eggs 
and
milk, but very few have the ability to keep any significant amount of
canned goods in so cool a storage area.

     Regardless of what the date or chart may indicate, if storage
conditions have been very poor then a food will become non-nutritious,
unpalatable, perhaps even unsafe to eat even if its listed time is not
yet up.  An example of this would be keeping egg salad at room
temperature for several hours at a picnic.  The eggs may have been 
laid
yesterday, but you are taking your chances if you eat it.  Never put
blind faith in any date.  Always keep in mind that they are predicated
on unspoken assumptions.  IF THE CONTAINER IS BULGING, MOLDED, FOUL
SMELLING OR SPEWS LIQUID WHEN OPENED, THROW IT OUT!  But throw it out
safely so that children and animals cannot get into it.

*Please see Section III: Spoilage for further information*


     B. CLOSED DATING CODES USED BY SOME FOOD MANUFACTURERS.

     In spite of the fact that increasing numbers of food processing
companies are moving to open dating it is not yet universal.  For 
those
products that do not come with a plain "best used by" date it is still
possible, albeit with much more difficulty, to determine the rotation
period for that specific product.

     For a processor to move their product in interstate commerce it
must exhibit a packing code.  This allows them to easily track their
product for purposes of stock rotation and in the event of a recall.
These packing codes are usually a series of letters and numbers that
indicate dates, times, and sometimes places of manufacture.  These 
dates
are not "use by" dates, but the time the container was actually 
filled.
As they are not really intended for general public knowledge these 
codes
are frequently unique to a particular processor and are not commonly
published by them.

     It is possible to get the keys to these codes by contacting the
processor and asking how to decipher the dating code for specific
product lines.  Over time, readers have been doing this and the code
keys below are the ones that have been sent to me.  Obviously, they 
are
only a few of the many, many products that use closed dating and I 
hope
that future readers will continue to send these codes in as they are
gleaned from the processors.

     Frankly, when it comes to the potential dozens of products that
would require deciphering their packing codes the entire process is a
major nuisance.  While it is better to have an encoded date than not 
to
have one at all, it would be far better if processors would just use
clear open dating and (best used by) so we wouldn't have to carry a 
book
of code keys like covert agents every time we go to the grocery.

     Before I list specific manufacturers there is one fairly widely
used code key that may be useful.  Some processors use a system where
all the days of the year are listed 1-365 (366 for leap year) as the
first three digits in the code.  This number is then followed by a
single letter such as "B" and then by a single digit that represents 
the
year.


     Some examples of this might be:

     Packing code        Date packed

     045B97              February 14, 1997
     101H98              May 1, 1998
     134K96              July 4, 1996
     252U98              October 31, 1998


     There may be other widely used coding systems yet to be 
discovered
and as they become available I will include them in this work.
                                                   
     SPECIFIC PRODUCT LINES:

IMPORTANT NOTE:    I have not personally verified all of these code
                   keys.  Also, closed date coding schemes may change
over time.  For this reason, the code keys given below may not be
correct.  Be sure to check a number of containers in a product line to
verify that a particular code key will work with the product line you
are interested in.
                                                   

     ARMOUR STAR CANNED MEAT PRODUCTS

     Vienna Sausage, Stew, Chili, Deviled Ham, Potted Meat, Slice 
Dried
Beef, Soups, etc. but does NOT include Armour Star Roast Beef or 
Corned
Beef.

     The code is on the bottom of the container.  The first letter is
the month of production; A=January, B=February, C=March and so on.  
The
following two numbers represent the day of the month it was processed
and the third number indicates the year.

     Example:  A code of B148C23 would be B=Feb, 14 = the fourteenth
day, 8=1998.  B148C23=February 14, 1998 and the last three characters
would be plant or processing line locations.

     Armour Star Microwaveable Meals have a two line production code 
on
the container lid.  The second line is the is date and uses the same
code as above.


     BERTOLLI OLIVE OIL

     Packed two years prior to the use by date on the bottle or can.


     BUSH BROTHERS & CO.

     Baked beans, chili, etc.

     A five digit code on the bottom of the can.  The first digit is 
the
month, the next two digits is the day of the month, the next number is
the year and the last digit is ignored.

     Example:  A code of 50173 deciphers to be:

     5  = the fifth month or May
     01 = the first day of May
     7  = 1997
     3  = last number is discarded.

     Thus 50173 is May 1st, 1997.


     CAMPBELL SOUPS:

    Best by date on cans.  Filled exactly two years prior to that 
date.


     DEL MONTE

    Canned fruits, vegetables, etc.  I'm not sure if it applies to
*all* product lines.

    A five character packing code, usually on the bottom.  The first
character is a digit representing the year.  The next three characters
are digits representing the day of the year the product was packed.  
The
last character is a letter and may be ignored.

    Example:  A packing code of  8045B deciphers to be:

     8   = 1998
     045 = The 45th day of the year or February 14th.
     B   = A plant code.

    Thus 8045B is February 14th, 1998.


     GENERAL MILLS:

    The manufacturing date is coded to their fiscal year that begins 
on
    June 1st and ends on May 31st.

    Interpret the code as follows:

    The first character of the code is a letter and represents the
    month the product was made.

    The second character in the code is a number which represents the
    year the product was made.

    The following two characters are numbers that represent the day of
    the month the product was made.

    The remaining characters following identify plant location and
    shift information.

     Example:  A packing code of  E731B would translate as follows:

     E  = October
     7  = 1997
     31 = 31st day of the month
     B  = A plant location

    The following is their 12 month cycle.  The letter "I" is not used
    because it can be confused with the number "1".

     A = June       E = October         J = February
     B = July       F = November        K = March
     C = August     G = December        L = April
     D = September  H = January         M = May


     HANOVER FOODS CORP.

     Small whole potatoes, green beans, corn, etc.

     A five digit code on the bottom of the can.  Omit the first 
digit.
The next digit is the year.  The remaining three digits are the day of
the year the product was packed.

     Example:  A code of 28304 deciphers to be:

     2   - discard this number
     8   = 1998
     304 = the 304th day of the year or October 31st

     Thus 28304 is October 31st, 1998


     HEALTHY CHOICE:

     First character is a number, second is a letter with the 
remaining
characters being a lot ID.  The number is the year it was packed with
the letter being the month,  October = A, November = B, December = C,
January = D, and so on through the year.  The recommended shelf life 
is
2 years.


     HORMEL PRODUCTS

     Their packing code is a letter followed by five numbers.  The
letter is their plant location and the numbers are the dating code in 
a
MM-DD-Y format.

     Example:  A code of G07048 decodes to mean:

     G  = plant location
     07 = July
     04 = The fourth day of the month
     8  = 1998

     The can was packed July 4, 1998 at plant location G.


     JELL-O BRAND PUDDINGS & GELATINS

     The first four digits are the date coding.  The first digit is 
the
year and the following three digits is the day of the year.

     Example:  A packing code of 804522 10:38 deciphers as:

     8     = 1998
     045   = the 45th day of the year or February 14th
     22    = discard the last two digits.
     10:38 = the time it was packed.

     Thus 804522 10:38 means that box of pudding mix was packed on
February 14th, 1998 at 10:38 a.m.


     McCORMICK HERBS & SPICES:
(See also http://www.mccormick.com/info/oftenasked.html  )

     There should be a four digit number of the bottom of the spice
package or extract bottle.  On foil packages, it will be around the
outside edge.  This code is more complicated than other manufacturers 
so
read closely.

     Example:  Using a number 3604 as the packing code:

     To derive the year, take the first number and add 5 (3 + 5 = 8) 
so
1998 is the year of manufacture.

     To derive the month and day, divide the last three digits by 50
(604 ö 50 = 6 with 4 remaining).  The six indicates the last whole or
complete month before the month of production, January, February, 
March,
April, May, and then June.  The next month, July, is the production
month.  The 4 remaining is the day it was produced.

     Therefore a packing code of 3604 means that product was packed 
July
4, 1998.

     While not as precise, you can save considerable time by just
finding the year.  The last three digits representing the day and 
month
will increase as the year grows.


     PROGRESSO FOODS

     Canned soups, beans, etc.

     Two lines of code on top of the can.  The top line, the first two
characters are the date portion.  The first character is a letter
indicating the month and the second character is a digit indicating 
the
year.

     Example:  A packing code of L7N18 1211 (this is the first line)
would be:

     L   = 12th month or December
     7   = 1997
     N18 = ignored
     1211= ignored.

     Thus a packing code of L7N18 1211 indicates the can was packed in
December of 1997.


     C. SHELF LIVES OF SOME COMMON STORAGE FOODS.

     The chart given below has been adapted from a number of different
shelf-life charts published by the cooperative extension services of
several states.  It presupposes no special packagings other than the 
way
the food comes from the store.  The general assumption is that when a
given foods' taste, appearance or texture begin to take on noticeable
changes it has reached the end of its best marketable shelf life and
should be rotated out.  This is not to say the food is no longer 
edible,
but it is losing nutritional content at the same time so no purpose is
served by keeping it for longer than is necessary to replace it with
fresher stock.  For what it's worth, I'm not fully in agreement with 
it
myself, but it's a good working hypothesis and I modify it by my
personal experience which may vary from yours.  If it is a dry food 
then
only dry utensils should be used to remove it from its container.  The
less light, moisture, heat and oxygen it comes into contact with, the
longer the food will keep.


         All of the below are for new, unopened containers.

                         RECOMMENDED
                         STORAGE TIME
FOOD                     AT 70 deg. F.                 STORAGE
TIPS                                               Keep the product:
======================================================================
=

Baking powder.................Till can date......Sealed & bone dry
Baking soda.....................2 years..........Sealed & bone dry
Biscuit, brownie, muffin mix....9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
Bouillon, cubes or granules.....2 years..........Sealed, cool and dry
Cake mixes, regular.............9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
            angel food..........1 year...........Sealed, cool and dry
Canned  metal can, non-acidic...2 years..........Cool
food,  metal can, acidic.....12-18 months.......Cool
        glass jars.............2-3 years.........Dark and cool
Chocolate, semi-sweet
   or  unsweetened.............18 months.........Cool and dark
Chocolate syrup.................2 years..........Cool & tightly sealed
Cocoa, powder or mixes..........8 months.........Sealed and cool
Coffee, regular.................2 years..........Cool, dry and sealed
        instant................1-2 years.........Sealed
Coffee creamers, powdered.......9 months.........Sealed and cool
Cornmeal........................1 year...........Guard against weevils
Cornstarch.....................18 months.........Dry
Crackers........................3 months.........Dry
Flour, white...................8-12 months.......Guard against weevils
       whole wheat.............6-8 months........Cool and weevil proof
Frostings, canned...............3 months.........Cool
           mix..................8 months.........Dry and cool
Fruits, dried..................6-12 months.......Cool & sealed
Gelatin, all types.............18 months.........Protect from moisture
Grains, whole...................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Hominy & hominy grits...........1 year...........Guard against weevils
Honey...........................1 year...........Sealed
Jellies, jams, preserves........1 year...........Refrigerate after use
Molasses & syrups...............1 year...........Sealed
Mayonnaise......................6 months.........Refrigerate after use
Milk, condensed or
      evaporated................1 year...........Turn over every 2 mos
      Non-fat dry...............6 months.........Bone dry and cool
Nuts, vacuum canned.............1 year...........Cool and dark
      other packaging...........3 months.........Cool and dark
      in shell..................4 months.........Cool, dry and dark
Pancake mix....................6-9 months........Dry and weevil proof
Pastas
(macaroni, noodles, etc).......2 years..........Guard against weevils
Peanut butter..................6-9 months........Sealed, cool, dark
Peas and beans, dry
(not soybeans).................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Potatoes, instant..............6-12 months.......Dry and weevil proof
Pudding mixes...................1 year...........Cool and very dry
Rice, white.....................2+ years.........Guard against weevils
     brown.....................3-6 months........Cool and weevil proof
     flavored or herb...........6 months.........Sealed & weevil proof
Salad dressings...............10-12 months.......Refrigerate after use
Salad oils......................6 months.........Sealed, dark and cool
Sauce and gravy mixes..........6-12 months.......Cool and dry
Shortening, solid...............1 year...........Dark
Soup mixes......................1 year...........Cool and dry
Sugar, brown....................6 months.........Airtight container
       confectioners...........18 months.........Dry and sealed
       granulated...............2+years..........Dry
Syrups (corn syrup based)......8-12 months.......Sealed and cool
Tea, bags......................18 months.........Sealed and dry
     instant....................3 years..........Sealed
     loose......................2 years..........Sealed and dry
Vegetables, dried...............1 year...........Cool and sealed
Vinegar.........................2+ years.........Sealed
Yeast (dry)...............Pkg expiration date....Cool and dry

    
tenzicut
How Many Acres?

I once read that you need less
than 600 square feet per person to survive. Personally, I want more than
survival. 

What do you want?

If you eat three eggs each for breakfast, and use some for other purposes,
you will want a dozen or maybe more eggs per day. You need as many hens,
along with a rooster. We (there are three in my house, but one doesn't
count) eat less than a dozen eggs per week, most weeks, so three hens are
enough for us. Excess eggs can go into the incubator, and the chicks can be
sold if they are not needed for meat. If you don't want to use an incubator,
boil the eggs, mash them, and feed them back to the chickens, or save them
for the pig, dogs, and cats. To feed the chicks, plan on letting them run
part of the day, if you can. Plant desireable food plants too, whether you
plan to grow your own feed or not, the fresh food is good for them. I have
read, though we never did it, that one large zucchini and 3 lbs. worms per
day is all you need to feed a dozen chickens. Chicken feed and soil
ammendments from a minimum of space, effort, and expence. Or give them 4 oz
grain per bird daily.

For milk, do think about getting goats rather than a cow. One milk goat will
produce all the milk you can use while she is lactating. Two, bred to
alternating schedules, should leave you with excess all year around. You
will need less than 1/2 acre of decent pasture for them and the chickens
together.

If you want beef, you should need no more than one calf per year, and I
would suggest that you find a dairy in the area, and buy from them one male
calf each year. Have a goat comming fresh at the same time, and raise the
calf on the goats milk. You will have some of the healthiest calves in the
area. Plan on butchering them young, as they take a lot of space as they
grow up. Castrate if you are letting the calves grow much over a year, or
they will want to visit the neighbor's cows. Raise them in a pen for three
to six months, and feed them only milk for excellent milk veal, or let them
eat grass and raise them up to a year for good, lean beef that is still
technically veal. This should be plenty of beef for a year, and won't take
over 1/2 acre.

If you really want cow milk, look into Dexter cattle. They are a small
breed of multi-purpose cattle. Two cows can run on two acres of good grass,
and give you all the milk and meat you need, with some left over. You will
most likley need to feed them, though.

Think carefully before getting a milk breed of cow. She will produce five or
more gallons of milk per day for 305 days per year. Many cows can give over
13 gallons per day. She will need lots of grain to do it, and you will need
tome to milk her, twice every day. Even the dexter will give a gallon per
day, which is a lot for three people. Don't forget to make butter and cheese
!

Pork is good. You can often pick up a weaned piglet for under $20, sometimes
under $5. Feed it those leftover kitchen scraps, milk, eggs, and let it
clean up the garden every year. Butcher at less than 100 pounds, and get
another for the next year. Or go to the pork auction and pick up an old boar
for less than 5 cents per pound. Take him straight to the butcher though, as
he is strong enough to tear up your barn, and will, just for fun. Don't even
think about breeding your own hog.

One acre of orchard should do for you: 4 Cherries, 2 apples and 2 pears
around 30 ft. apart, 2 Peaches at 20 ft, 2 plums at 15. I'd add 100
strawberries, 6 blackberries, 6 raspberries, and 4 grapes to the mix, as
they will bear sooner. A few nut trees would be good to add, if you can grow
them where you are. Maybe 2 pecan (35 ft), 4 hazel (15 ft), and 2 chestnuts
(30 ft). Even if you put in a 50 ft row of asparagus, 4 hardy kiwis on a
trellis, and 12 rhubarb plants, this is less than an acre. Fewer trees if
your neighbors have them close enough for pollination, and closer together
if you get dwarfs.

I don't know what you are gardening now, but 1/2 acre is a lot of garden.
330x66 ft, re-arainged in whatever shape it comes in. I wish my
spell-checker worked, that word looks wrong. Point is, that should be plenty
of vegetable and herb garden.

Add at least 1 acre if you need a wood lot, and 2 or 3 for growing your own
grain, though I don't reccommend it. Add 2 beehives to the orchard, if you
can, and spend all you can on GOOD fences.

Five to ten acres should be enough for three people, if you get decent land,
put up good fences to keep out the vermin (deer, coyotes, ferral dogs...),
and put in the work. More would be nice, though.

Joyce


From: Lutesville" LUTESVILLE@COX.NET From: Wendy Guy <wguy@swbi.net>
a Year's supply

This is good info from the a-years-supply list
Willem

Food Storage for Beginners:

Develop a Home Storage Mindset
If you're new to food storage, first prepare by developing a food
storage mindset. It's easy to think of lots of reasons why we can't
get our food storage started; but we have to remind ourselves that
ANY
food item that is stored for later use (tomorrow, next week, next
year, or years from now) is food storage. In that context, the canned
vegetables and packages of pasta in your kitchen cupboard are part of
your food storage.

Start Simply
Don't begin your food storage focus with the compulsion to obtain a
year's supply of food storage immediately. Start your food storage
plan by determining what food items you use regularly that could be
bought ahead and stored for future use.

Store What You Will Use
Examine the shelf life of food items your family uses. That will
help you to estimate how much you can store. You can only store as
much as your family will use before the shelflife of the food item
runs out (stored at proper temperature and under proper circumstances
in adequate food grade containers, without oxygen if appropriate.)

Back to Basics
You may be able to save money with your food storage by using "back
to basics" techniques such as grinding your own grains, sprouting
seeds, growing garden vegetables, home canning, etc. Whole grains
store well for many years and can be purchased inexpensively in bulk.
If your family is not accustomed to eating whole-grain foods, you
will
need to increase the amount of whole-grains in your diet slowly to
allow the body to adjust to the fiber increase. Whole dried herbs can
also be purchased in bulk inexpensively. You can grind your herbs
with
a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

Label Carefully
As you package a food item for storage, be sure to label the
container plainly with the name of the food item and date it is
packed. Place your labels so that you will still be able to see them
when containers are stacked or shelved.

Rotate, Rotate, ROTATE!
The MOST IMPORTANT thing I can tell you about food storage is that
it is necessary to ROTATE your storage. That means that you use the
container that's been stored the longest and replace it with newer
stored containers behind the older ones. If you are storing items
that
you never use, you are wasting space that could be used for food
items
you need. Food storage that spoils or lies untouched is garbage.
Don't
fill your home with garbage. Fill your home with precious healthy
food
storage that will be a blessing to you and your family on a regular
basis and in times of need.

Food Storage is NOT Just for Emergencies
Food storage is not something we set aside for an emergency,
although it is a great blessing in such a time. Food storage is a
plan
for living better, buying less expensively, preserving foods we grow
ourselves, developing a healthier lifestyle, and learning ways to use
our storage for household uses and natural healing.

Keep Food Storage on Your Mind
As you begin to focus on your home storage, keep your storage in
mind as you shop, clip coupons, and browse newspapers for sales. When
you find tomato sauce on sale, stock up on enough for a month or two.
When canned vegetables are on sale, buy enough for a variety of
canned
goods in your storage. Pasta, oil, and beans keep well; so store
enough for two or three months. As your pantry fills, you will begin
to develop an idea of what you want to add to your storage, and
you'll
keep that in mind as you shop and plan your gardening.

Plan Ahead When Buying in Bulk
When you begin to buy in bulk, you will need to plan ahead to make
sure that you have all the containers and equipment you will need for
your storage. Reusable containers can be a blessing for those who
plan
to continue their storage as a way of life.

Tailor Guides for Short-Term Basic Storage and Long-Term Extended
Storage
As you develop a home storage mindset, you can devise a plan for
short-term basic storage and for long-term extended storage. Food
storage guides are meant to be used as general guidelines that can be
tailored to your family's needs that serve to give you a better
overall picture of home storage. Food storage buying guides generally
lay out a plan to obtain a year's supply of food storage with monthly
or weekly goals; but these, too, should be tailored to your family's
needs. For example, if everyone in your family is allergic to oats, a
large supply of oats would be a waste for you. Substitute a similar
food item that your family could put to use; such as barley, rice, or
quinoa.

Set a Goal, Devise a Plan, and Obtain Your Storage
Set a goal, devise a plan, and obtain the storage you desire. For
example, you might begin with a goal to obtain a month's supply of
food storage. You might plan to purchase items such as staples,
canned
goods, dry milk, and pasta, making a chart of how much of each item
you will need to store. As you make your grocery purchases over the
next month, buy twice the amount you need of each item (one for this
month's use, and another for next month's storage.) Buying on sale,
using coupons, and growing your own foods can help to reduce the
initial cost of storing foods. You might have to make some
adjustments
to find money for your storage by cutting back on fast food, eating a
"cheap" meal once a week, or fasting for one day a month or more and
saving the money you would have spent on food for your storage. You
may examine your expenses and find other ways to trim your budget to
allow for home storage; such as going out for entertainment one less
time a month, giving your own haircuts instead of going to the salon,
calling less long-distance, etc. After a few months of storing a
month
ahead and living off your storage, you will begin to see other ways
in
which you can obtain your food storage in greater bulk less
expensively. You may devise a plan for a 3-month supply, a 6-month
supply, a year's supply, etc. as your needs and means permit.

Find Space for Your Storage
As your storage grows, finding storage space can be a challenge. If
you are lucky enough to have a root cellar, basement, or spare room
with temperature control, you are very blessed. If space is a
problem,
get creative. Build shelves, store under beds, use an unused corner
of
a room, store under decorative tables, or store behind couches and
other furniture. If you truly have a desire to set aside home
storage,
there will be a place for your storage.

Make Use of Your Storage
Make use of your food storage and find new uses for it. For
example, learn how to use the same herbs as spices for cooking,
formulas for healing, and household cleaning. Use salt, vinegar, and
baking soda for cooking, healing, and household uses. Learn to grind
whole grains and to sprout your grains for fresh sprouts, juices,
essene bread, salads, and wheat grass. Proper use of your food
storage
can help to simplify your life, improve your health, extend your
budget, and enlighten your soul.

Put Your Home Storage to the Test
Once you feel confident that your home storage pantry is
well-stocked, plan a weekend for your family to put your home storage
to the test. Use only your storage to live on for the weekend. For a
real emergency preparedness test, turn off the electricity and water,
and survive using your alternate sources of heating, cooling,
cooking,
water, etc. Within the first hour you will think of many things you
should have in storage that never occurred to you before. When you
live on your food storage, you will become personally aware of the
need for a variety of herbs, butter powder, mayonnaise, and a number
of things that will make your food storage tastier, more palatable,
healthier, and more interesting.

Storage is a Blessing
As you become accustomed to using, rotating, and extending your
home storage, you will find that it is a blessing to you and others
in
many ways. Your home storage is a blessing when your neighbor who has
lost a paycheck is in need of groceries, when your loved one who has
taken ill needs meals taken to his or her home, when you've run out
of
commercial cleaners so make your own, when a flood destroys all foods
not stored in waterproof containers, when one of the ladies from
Church asks if you wouldn't mind making homemade bread for something
special, when your friend is in need of a poultice for an insect
sting
or wound, when power lines are down and refrigerated items spoil,
when
your father needs an herbal tea for headache or upset stomach, when a
natural disaster destroys homes and food, when your child needs a
homemade game to keep him occupied through an emergency situation,
and, REGULARLY, every time you prepare a meal for yourself or your
family using your home storage. Keep the faith, and always move
forward prayerfully.
Visit the SurvivalRing homepage at
http://www.survivalring.org
Don't forget - Civil Defense Now! is NOW ONLINE...hundreds of pages of
FREE data.
http://www.survivalring.org/cd-main.htm

How to Make Potting Soil

Select ONE OF EACH from the following ingredients. 
Use a wheelbarrow to mix thoroughly. 
PART ONE: A high quality garden soil (filtered through a screen) OR a commercial 
topsoil.
PART TWO: Peat moss, leaf mold, OR compost.
PART THREE: coarse sand, NOT vermiculite OR beach sand.

Mix 1 part each of the above ingredients. 
Add 1/4 part bonemeal OR rock phosphate. 
Mix well. 
Add 1/4 part greensand. 
Mix well.

Tips:
For plants that prefer a more organic mix, use 2 PARTS peat moss, leaf mold or 
compost.

For plants that require a medium that needs to stay dryer, use 4 PARTS sand, 
vermiculite or perlite.

If you mix more than you can use, give it to a neighbor or store it away from 
drying winds and rain. 

How To Make Vinegar

Vinegar is easy to make, from a variety of products. And you can make your own 
mother of vinegar too, although you don't actually need it. All you have to do 
is add already-made vinegar to apple cider, in a proportion of 1:4. However, to 
make mother of vinegar, expose a mixture of one-half vinegar and one-half cider 
to a temperature of 80 degrees for a few days. The thin scum that forms on the 
surface is mother of vinegar.

Vinegar can be made from apples (cider vinegar), grapes (wine vinegar), berries, 
other fruits, or even from a 10 percent sugar solution. Most homesteaders who 
make vinegar make cider vinegar.

The strength of the finished product is in direct proportion to the amount of 
sugar in the original solution. For this reason sweet apples usually make 
stronger vinegar than tart ones. Not always, though: Some sour apples actually 
have a high proportion of sugar which is masked by a high fruit acid content.

Use only fresh uncooked cider or grape juice without any preservatives. 
Preservatives will prevent it from turning to vinegar. Fill a one gallon glass 
jug to the neck.

The jug will need an airlock. If you don't have one for winemaking or don't care 
to purchase one in a winemaking supply store, make a stopper from a dry corn 
cob. Insert a piece of grape vine, sumac, or some similar material with a large 
pith, lengthwise through a piece of the cob that will fit into the jug's neck. 
Punch or burn out the pith with a hot wire. Fit one end of a piece of rubber or 
plastic tubing over the grape or sumac, and put the other end in a jar of water.

With this setup, as the juice ferments the carbon dioxide passes through the 
tube and bubbles up through the water, but no oxygen can reach the juice. The 
first fermentation will take four to six weeks at room temperature. It's not 
necessary to add yeast to start this process, because the wild yeasts which are 
always present will do the job. The grey foam that forms on the top is excess 
yeast, which is harmless.

When the bubbling stops, the sugar has all changed to alcohol: you have made 
hard cider! To make vinegar, you need a second fermentation that will convert 
the alcohol into acetic acid.

Unlike the first fermentation, which occurs through the liquid, the second takes 
place only on the surface. It is caused by an entirely different organism. It 
requires oxygen, and the larger the surface area in relation to the volume, the 
faster the vinegar will be produced. To have more surface area, divide your brew 
between two jugs, so the liquid will be below the narrow neck portion.

This is when you add the mother.

Actually, wild spores floating in the air will act as a starter, so the only 
reason for using a mother is to get things going faster. Put a bit on a piece of 
dry corn cob and float it on the liquid.

Tie cloth over the openings of the jugs to admit oxygen but to keep out dust and 
bugs.

The time the second fermentation takes depends in part on the spores present. 
All strains work best at a temperature of 70-80 degrees. They become dormant at 
low temperatures, but high temperatures will kill them. The time required also 
depends on the surface-to-volume ratio, but ordinarily, you can figure on 
anywhere from three to nine months.

This homemade vinegar is much stronger than store-bought. Dilute it with water 
to taste before using it. But naturally there are many other ways of doing it. 
Here are a few of them.

Sweet apple cider

Use fully ripened apples, free of decay and bad spots. Wash thoroughly and grind 
or crush, then place in cider press or juice press and extract the juice.

Place juice in an open kettle (stainless steel or enamel) and boil until volume 
is reduced by one-half, skimming often.

Pour at once into bottles or stone jugs and cork.

Apple cider vinegar

Let sweet cider stand in an open jug 4-6 weeks and it will turn to vinegar.

Put cores and peelings (left over when apples are used for other purposes) into 
a stone crock or wide mouth jar. Cover with cold water and set in a warm place, 
adding fresh peelings now and then. Keep the jar covered. 
The scum (mother) that forms on top will gradually thicken.

When the vinegar tastes strong enough to suit you, strain it through several 
thicknesses of cheesecloth.

Parings of peaches or pears, grape skins and cherries can be used this way too.

Crush cut-up apples in a crock or tub. You can include windfalls and bruised 
fruit.

Cover with warm water, then cover the top of the tub with several thicknesses of 
cheesecloth, tied into place.

Keep this in a warm place 4-6 months. When it tastes strong enough, strain, 
bottle and cork.

You can speed up the process by adding a lump of unbaked bread dough, or two 
ounces of brown sugar or molasses, or one package or cake of yeast dissolved in 
warm water, to each gallon of liquid.

If you make wine, it's easy (sometimes all too easy!) to make vinegar. When the 
wine is made, just let it stand, covered but exposed to the air. Exposed to 
summer sun it will take about two weeks; in winter it will take a month or more. 

White wine vinegar 
Mash two pounds of raisins. Add to a gallon of soft water in an uncorked two-
gallon jug. (Old recipes called for rain water, but today. . . Hey, come to 
think of it, some rain water is as acid as weak vinegar already! So why are we 
going through all this?)

Let it stand in a warm place and in about two months it will be white wine 
vinegar.

If you think it's fun to be frugal, pour off the vinegar through a cheesecloth 
strainer, leaving the raisins and sediment in the jug. Add half a pound of 
raisins and a gallon of water and start over again.

Raspberry vinegar 
Pour three pints of water over 11/2 pints of fresh raspberries. Let stand for 24 
hours.

Strain off the liquid, discard the berry pulp, clean the jar, put in another 1-
1/2 pints of fresh raspberries, and pour the liquid over them. The next day, do 
it again.

On day four, strain the clear liquor through several layers of cheesecloth, add 
one pound of sugar, stir until dissolved, and let stand uncovered until it turns 
to vinegar. This takes about three months.

Honey vinegar 
Pour one gallon of boiling water over 4-1/2 pounds of honey in a clean crock. 
Stir to dissolve.

Make a paste of one cake or package of yeast and a small amount of warm water. 
Spread this on a slice of toast, and float the toast on the liquid. Cover with 
cloth and let stand 16 days.

Skim it, strain it, and let it stand another 4-6 weeks until it tastes like 
vinegar. Then bottle.

Clover vinegar 
In a crock pour one quart of molasses and nine quarts of boiling water. Let 
stand until lukewarm. Add two quarts of clover blossoms and a cake or package of 
yeast. Let stand two weeks, then strain and bottle.

Dandelion vinegar 
Dissolve two cups of honey in three quarts of hot water. Cool and add one quart 
of opened dandelion blossoms and one cake or package of yeast dissolved in hot 
water. Cover with cheesecloth, but stir once a day for 10 days. Strain and 
bottle.

Gourmet vinegars

Fancy vinegars in fancy stores bring fancy prices-but naturally, these can be 
made on the homestead for a pittance. After you've made your vinegar from one of 
the recipes above, spice up a small bottle or two of it with one of these ideas:

Herb vinegars: Use one cup of herbs for each pint of cider vinegar. Tarragon 
vinegar is common in stores, but you can use almost anything from your herb 
garden: basil, dill, mint. . . even finely chopped chives or celery leaves. 
Place in clear glass jars, cover, and let stand in the sun (like making sun tea) 
for two weeks or until flavor is as strong as you want it. Shake the bottles 
once or twice a day.

Horseradish vinegar: mix 1-1/2 ounces grated horseradish, 1/2 ounce minced 
shallot, and 1/2 ounce paprika. Add to one pint of vinegar. Let stand 7-10 days. 
Strain and bottle. 
Chili vinegar: Finely chop 25 chili peppers and pour over them one pint of 
vinegar. Let stand 10-14 days. Strain and bottle. 
Garlic vinegar: Put one ounce of finely chopped garlic in a bottle. Pour one 
pint of strong vinegar over it. Let stand 10-14 days, shaking frequently. Strain 
and bottle. 

Mint vinegar: Fill a wide mouth jar with clean peppermint. Fill the jar with 
vinegar. Cover tightly and let set 2-3 weeks. Pour the vinegar into another 
bottle and keep well corked. 
Tarragon vinegar: Gather the tarragon just before it blossoms. Strip it from the 
larger stalks and bruise it, to release the flavor and aroma. Fill a jar or 
bottle with the herb, and cover it with vinegar. Let stand for two months. 
Strain and bottle. 

Meat flavoring vinegar: mix two chopped onions, three chopped red pepper pods, 
two tablespoons brown sugar, one tablespoon celery seed, one tablespoon ground 
mustard, one teaspoon turmeric, one teaspoon black pepper and one teaspoon salt. 
Put into a quart bottle and fill the bottle with cider vinegar. A tablespoon of 
this mixed in a stew or gravy will impart a fine flavor and rich color.  

You can test the strength (acidity) of your homemade vinegar with a wine acid 
testing kit, with slight modification.

Follow the directions that come with the kit, but of course using your vinegar 
instead of wine. Then take the number you come up with and multiply it by 0.8. 
That's the acetic acid strength of the vinegar.

Vinegar is a lot more acid than wine, so this uses a testing kit up fast. To 
make it last longer, dilute the vinegar at a ratio of one part vinegar to nine 
parts water. (Use the measuring devices that come with the testing kit.) Follow 
the directions to test the mixture. But then, multiple the result by 8, (not 
0.8, as before).

Diluting vinegar: To dilute tested homemade vinegar to the four or five percent 
vinegar commonly sold in stores, use this formula. If you want 5% vinegar, 
measure the strength of what you have made, subtract five, divide the result by 
five, then add that fraction of a gallon of water to each gallon of the homemade 
vinegar.

If you want 4% vinegar, subtract four, divide by four and proceed as above. 
Homemade vinegar is not recommended for making pickles because of the uncertain 
acid content, it can discolor pickles, and it may look cloudier than store-
bought vinegar. 

Fermentation should start within a day or two. "Apple cider is very dependable 
about fermenting and rarely needs help, as anyone who likes hard cider knows. 
Other fruit juices or mixtures may not ferment so easily. If their sugar content 
is low, adding sugar or molasses will help. Sometimes the wild yeasts in the air 
are not the right kind or strong enough, and adding a little yeast will help."

"If the liquid still refuses to ferment there is no use going on with it."

For canning, a too-weak vinegar can result in spoilage, and even botulism. It 
should be five percent (or five grain).

Don't want to spend money on a wine testing kit? That's okay: there's a "simple" 
way to test acidity without one-"simple," in the homestead context of course, 
meaning it's a lot of work but all it requires is a few small glasses and jars, 
an eyedropper, a little baking soda, a small amount of store-bought vinegar and 
a head of red cabbage.

Then all you do is titrate your vinegar. Titration is the process of determining 
the strength of a solution in terms of the smallest amount of a reagent of known 
concentration required to bring about a given effect in reaction with a known 
volume of the test solution. . . but don't worry, you don't have to know all 
about that to do it.

Here's how it works:

Titration

In one small jar put a solution of baking soda in water. The amount doesn't 
matter, but it should be enough so that a little undissolved soda settles to the 
bottom of the jar after you mix it well.

In the other jar, put some water left from cooking red cabbage. You want a 
strong purple: steam a head of cabbage in just a small amount of water.

Next put a few ounces of water in the two glasses. The amount doesn't matter, 
but make certain you have the same amount in both.

Use the eyedropper to put enough drops of the purple liquid into the water in 
the glasses to give the water a definite color. Again, be careful to put the 
same amount in each glass.

Rinse the eyedropper in water, then in the five grain store-bought vinegar. Then 
put seven drops of the store-bought vinegar into one of the glasses of colored 
water which, if you want to be scientific, you can label" standard" or 
"control."

Rinse the eyedropper in water again, then in your homemade vinegar, and add 
seven drops to the other glass. . . which you can label "test."

Now rinse the eyedropper in water again, then in the baking soda solution. Put 
20 drops of the baking soda solution in the "standard" glass. Stir it with a 
glass rod or plastic spoon.

The water will turn blue. The exact shade depends on the pH of your water. Then 
add baking soda solution, one drop at a time-don't forget to keep track of the 
drops-to the test glass. Stir after adding each drop.

Do this until the color of the water in the test glass exactly matches the color 
of the water in the standard glass.

If you add a drop too much, no problem. Just don't count that one. When the 
colors match, the acid content of your homemade vinegar is equal to the number 
of drops of baking soda solution you put in the test glass divided by four.

Example: if you used 28 drops of solution, the acidity is 28 divided by 4, or 
7%.

But your recipe calls for, or more likely assumes, 5%. So what now? Water it 
down. To make it 5%, subtract 5 from whatever your homemade vinegar tested: in 
our example, 7-5=2. Multiply that times the amount of vinegar (in ounces) you're 
going to dilute. Let's say you have one quart, or 32 ounces. 32 x 2 = 64. Divide 
that by 5, and you get 12.8. 

Add 12.8 ounces of water to dilute 32 ounces of 7% vinegar to 5% acidity.


Date:  Fri Mar 5, 2004  9:48 pm
Subject:  Article on how to sex day old chicks....


Box after box of hatchlings (some but an hour old) are brought in
and placed before the chick sexer at waist level. Over and over he
scoops up a chick with his left hand, expels its droppings with a
squeeze of his thumb, opens its vent with his fingers, peers through
the magnifying tenses attached to his spectacles and determines its
sex. Then he deposits the tiny bird in one of two bins. Two thousand
vent sexes and a good day's work later, his hands and his shirt
front are still immaculate. And if you buy sexed chicks from this
chick sexer's employer, the sort is guaranteed 95% accurate.

In slow motion, here's how he separates those chicks.
There are three cardboard boxes on the table: one in front of him
(full of unsorted hatchlings) and the pullet and cockerel bins to
right and left. Each container is divided into four compartments to
buffer the shock of long-distance travel when the young birds are
shipped the next day. A milk carton, its top removed and two
adjoining sides cut down halfway, stands behind the "unsorted"
container with the low sides angled to face front.
With his left hand he scoops up a chick, catching-its neck between
his middle and ring fingers and its legs between his ring finger and
pinky. In one swoop the ball of fuzz is perfectly balanced and duck-
tailed rump up.

In chickens-as in other birds-the intestinal and genitourinary
tracts both empty into a common cavity known as the cloaca. Before
this area can be examined, the chick has to be evacuated (rid of the
blob of umbilical dinner that remains in its lower intestine). The
chick sexer holds the baby toward the milk carton and squeezes its
lower abdomen once with his left thumb. A small amount of feces
squirts into the container, and he finishes the job quickly before
another mess erupts.

The chick-still held in the same grasp-is raised close to the chick
sexer's face, and his left thumb presses the left edge of the vent
up and over so that the interior border is turned toward the bird's
neck and secured in that position. A fraction of a second later,
Scheline's right thumb and first finger spread apart the other half
of the orifice. The margin is folded down toward the abdomen and
held there with a firm pinch. The aperture is then fully open (wide
from back to belly, narrower thigh to thigh) and it's possible to
peer inside. Some sorters use the right index finger to test the
tissues for elasticity. Lyle, however, depends entirely on making a
visual check with his eyes.

Vent sexing is based on the fact that the hatchling cockerel has a
rudimentary sex organ called the "male process" . . . a very small,
glossy, transparent bulb that protrudes from amid the second of
three cloacal folds inside the cavity. The structure is independent
of the surrounding tissues and pokes out almost as far as the vent
opening when the border is pushed down far enough for examination.
If you're not farsighted, you can see the process with the naked
eye. In contrast, the typical female chick has a shallow depression-
or just a trace of swelling-at the same site.

So far, so good ... but here's the catch: One day-old cockerel out
of five isn't so distinctly characterized. He has a smaller bulb, a
flat bulb, a bulb that protrudes downward instead of up or a grooved
bulb that looks more like a fold than a male process.

More confusing still, 40% of day-old pullets have organs that
resemble those of the males. This happens because embryos of both
sexes start out with male-like bumps. In the majority of females,
the process begins to shrink by the second week of incubation and
has vanished by hatching time. Not so, however, with two pullets out
of rive. Their lingering protuberances are usually smaller than
cockerels', but are sometimes as large as the average male bulb.
As the female grows older, the process mill continue to
regress . . . just as the questionable male organ will extend and
grow larger. But you can't wait more than a day or two to vent sex a
chick. It has to be done before the youngster eats and thus distends
its lower alimentary tract.

Fortunately, the trained eye can still discern differences between
the true male process and the female protuberance at hatch. The
cockerel's organ (whether regular, small, flat or divided) consists
of compact, lustrous tissue that continues to hold its shape when
exposed. The female bulb-even a large one-is less conspicuous and
lacks sheen and elasticity. When the vent is spread apart and the
process revealed, the pullet's bump doesn't hold but fades away in
seconds. If the bulge is touched, it will depress.

Accordingly, when Lyle sees a shiny bulb-shaped process protrude to
the vent's lower edge and stay put, he plops the chick into the
cockerel bin. And if the same area bears a shallow depression, just
a trace of dull protuberance or a larger bulb that fades away, he
plunks the bird-with a somewhat wider smile-into the pullet
container. The occasional case he's unsure of goes back into the
unsorted box to be examined again later. The cloacal folds rearrange
in the meantime, and the process becomes easier to sex.

The chick sexer's large, blunt fingers and make-light-of-it modesty
belie the deftness and coordination necessary for his fast, decisive
skill. Undoubtedly, though, vent sexing does take a knack. The
sorter must be firm and gentle simultaneously: If the chick is held
too tightly, it will weaken and later die. Lyle knows sexers who
work a third again as fast as he does-employing a different hand
scoop-but their hatchlings don't always survive. Yet you can't be
too queasy about hurting the little birds, or you'll never get their
vents open far enough to expose the phallus and will end up trying
to make guesses about the upper cloacal folds.

Speed is important too. If you're not swift about completing the
check-or if you press down on the lower part of the abdomen as you
pinch back the right edge of the vent-another glob of feces will
erupt and coat the cavity. When that happens, you blot the area.
Nevertheless, I'd say that any nimble-fingered homesteader could
vent sex a good 75% of his day-old chicks, without an instructed
apprenticeship, just by knowing what to look for and how to spread
the aperture. (The other 25% of discriminations probably do take a
tutored eye.)

If you want to learn the art, it's best to put your fingers through
the motions of hand scoop and vent spread before you try to sex a
live bird. Dime stores carry little rubber replica chicks intended
as babies' bathtub toys. Buy one, magic-marker a small circle at the
appropriate place and practice.

As a novice chicken sexer myself, I find that the most difficult
manipulation of the technique is evacuation of the chick with the
left thumb. Only rarely do I find that exact spot on the lower belly
which relaxes the sphincter when pushed. What I do instead is sex my
hatchlings over a large laundry tub.

The problem is that if the chick isn't evacuated beforehand, the
feces seep into the cavity as you spread the vent apart. This isn't
the clean-cut eruption the thumb press effects: It drips, I
blot . . . it squirts, I blot . . . and again, until the aperture is
clean and I can peer in. This procedure takes more time and is
certainly messier, but it works. When I'm done, the toilet paper
goes in the wastepaper basket and I turn on the tub faucet and flush
the rest of the droppings down the drain.

THE DOWN COLOR SORT
Not all chicks have to be vent sexed: A variety of crossbreeds can
be sorted out by the color and markings of their down. In these
cases the juvenile coloring is a sex-linked characteristic . . .
that is, the pullets' coloration is determined by mania's gene, the
cockerels' by pa's. The most important factor to remember about
these pairings is that the method doesn't hold if the breeds of hen
and rooster are switched.

1. Gold breed roosters mated to silver and penciled breed hens
produce buff or red females and cream, white or smoky males. Either
sex may or may not show narrow striping.
Gold breed roosters include Rhode Island Reds and the buff varieties
of the following breeds: Leghorn, Minorca, Wyandotte, Plymouth Rock
and Cochin.

Silver and penciled hens include; White Wyandotte, Columbian
Wyandotte, Silver-laced Wyandotte, Silver-penciled Wyandotte,
Columbian Plymouth Rock, Silver-penciled Plymouth Rock, Light
Sussex, Light Brahma and Dark Brahma.

In addition, Brown Leghorn, Partridge Wyandotte, Partridge Plymouth
Rock and Golden-laced Wyandotte roosters can be crossed with
Columbian Wyandotte, Columbian Plymouth Rock, Light Sussex and Light
Brahma hens to produce chicks with the same sex-linked distinctions.

2. Barred Rock hens crossed with any brown-head rooster, or with any
black or buff variety, produce black males with white head spots and
yellow beaks, shanks and toes. The female chicks are all black above
with dark beaks, shanks and toes. The same offspring results from
the crossing of a Barred Rock hen and any recessive white rooster-
White Wyandotte, Langshan, Minorca or Dorking-with the exception of
the recessive White Plymouth Rock.

Incidentally, three "pure" or standard breeds produce chicks that
can sometimes be sorted on the basis of their down markings. One of
these is the Barred Rock . . . hatchlings with yellow head spots are
males. Both sexes of New Hampshire and Buff Orpington chicks
generally hatch totally buff. Some, however, have a black head spot
and are pullets. Others may have off-white streaks through the buff
down at the upper wing joints (shoulders), and these are cockerels.
The male marking is more common than the female, but is also more
difficult to detect.

Before the professional chick sexer overhauls a box of buffs,
he "sight-sexes" them quickly for markings. The darkest buff chicks
tend to be males, but-since that isn't always true-each hatchling of
that color goes through the vent check.


*******************
tenzicut - who has never tried this..... yet!




 


  
   
Humus Tea Brewing

Well, my first experiment with humus tea brewing ended yesterday around 
5pm - 29 hours after starting the brewing process. As I mentioned 
earlier, I took a half-gallon jar, rigged up an aerator out of Walmart 
1/4" soaker-hose and tee-connectors and connected that to my 10-30 
gallon aquarium pump. The resulting setup can be seen here:

http://www.mjv.com/images/first-aerator.jpg

Into the 1/2 gallon brewer I placed cleared tapwater (bubbled overnight 
to get rid of chlorine) up half-way. Then I put in a cup of redworm 
castings. I have to say - it's the first time I dug into my worm-bin, 
and even though I tried to go down deep where I assumed less food would 
be and less worms would be - those worms are *everywhere*! Big ones, 
small ones, babies and tons of little egg cases - most hatched already. 
So, I picked out the worms as best as I could and sacrificed the tiny 
ones because it would have been impossible to get them all. Actually, I 
think most survived the process - the water was aerated sufficiently and 
used right away. Anyway - 1 cup of castings went into the drink, then I 
took 1/8th cup of molasses, mixed it well with enough cleared water to 
fill the brewer and poured that in and plugged in the aerator.

Bubbles - a lot. Sufficient for this brewer. I'm gonna test it on a one 
gallon brewer I've got just about ready and see if it's still 
sufficient. You want a profuse amount of bubbling.

Caveats - lotsa bubbles also means lotsa...bubbles. Which tended to 
build up a bit. It wasn't enough to overflow, but it was close.
Furthermore, the aerator didn't want to stay flat on the bottom, which 
led to a small part that didn't get aerated and settled out some. Not 
good. So, I used a paint-stirrer stick to push it down periodically, and 
I stirred it often.

24 hours went by and it smelled great. I wanted to push it a bit to see 
- targeting 30 hours. I smelled a faint fishy smell at 29 hours and 
figured I'd pushed it far enough - the stuff on the bottom was starting 
to go anaerobic.

Okay, feeling smart, I took a little plastic pot, put it in the mouth of 
an empty jar and plopped in a coffee filter. I wanted some stuff clear 
enough to go through a spray bottle. Well...it worked sorta. It filtered 
through awefully slow. No nylons available, so I took what I had, 
diluted it with more cleared water and went happily spraying away, 
making a grand mess of drips on the floor that had the wife glaring at 
me. The rest I poured into my ever-present half-full watering can, mixed 
it to dilute it and went around giving all the plants a treat. I could 
have diluted it much further, but it was a test after all.

Things I learned -
1. With the proportions I used - 24 hours is good enough.
2. I need to find a way to anchor the aerator to the bottom.
3. I've redesigned the aerator of the 1 gallon jar to keep the hoses out 
of the way when I stir.
4. I need to have more cleared water handy to dilute to.
5. Find a more suitable filtering method than coffee filters.
6. Put a cap or something on the brewing-jar so the bursting bubbles 
don't spray everything with brew...

So, all in all, very educational. This was a bacterially rich mixture. 
Sometime later I'm gonna let some molasses soak into the castings and 
sit for a bit before putting into the brewer to get fuzzy with fungus 
then do the brewing thing to get a fungally rich mixture. Both have 
benefits. Once the experimentation is done, I hope to be treating my 
plants to this once a week at least. Hmmm, that would mean I'd have to 
start up a few more wormbins... :) I'm hunting for more powerful 
aerators too - soon I hope to graduate to 5 gallon buckets and even 
large outdoors trashcans... Oh - and you want to use this stuff right 
away. Don't let it sit or it'll go anearobic...

Cheers,
Mike
From:   Michael Vanecek mike@mjv.com
For those of you whom are new, every now and again we have an "I
Dare You/Challenge Project" with some kind of project that is
homesteading/farming/self-sufficient in topic. This time around it
is how to make a small windowsill hydroponics system. Past projects
(as well as this one) can be found in our FILES section located at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/files/
scroll down to "Challenges Dares and Projects" and open the file you
are interested in. Past projects have included things such as Cast
iron pans, Rug braiding, Candlemaking, Sourdough starter, Knitting
boot socks, Making paper, Milk Paint, Chicken tractors (where is
that file Dee?), Solar cooking, Soapmaking, Growing Sprouts, Cheese
and Yogurt making.
 
For those of you whom are new, every now and again we have an "I
Dare You/Challenge Project" with some kind of project that is
homesteading/farming/self-sufficient in topic. This time around it
is how to make a small windowsill hydroponics system. Past projects
(as well as this one) can be found in our FILES section located at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/files/
scroll down to "Challenges Dares and Projects" and open the file you
are interested in. Past projects have included things such as Cast
iron pans, Rug braiding, Candlemaking, Sourdough starter, Knitting
boot socks, Making paper, Milk Paint, Chicken tractors (where is
that file Dee?), Solar cooking, Soapmaking, Growing Sprouts, Cheese
and Yogurt making.

Hydroponics basically means working water ("hydro" means "water"
and "ponos" means "labor"). Hydroponics is not just a space age new
method of growing plants. Many different civilizations have utilized
hydroponic growing techniques throughout history. The hanging
gardens of Babylon, the floating gardens of the Aztecs of Mexico and
those of the Chinese are examples of 'Hydroponic' culture. Egyptian
hieroglyphic records dating back several hundred years B.C. describe
the growing of plants in water. Hydroponics is hardly a new method
of growing plants. In recent years, giant strides have been made
over the years in this innovative area of agriculture.

Throughout the last century, scientists and horticulturists
experimented with different methods of hydroponics. One of the
potential applications of hydroponics that drove research was for
growing fresh produce in nonarable areas of the world. It is a
simple fact that some people cannot grow in the soil in their area
(if there is even any soil at all). This application of hydroponics
was tested during World War II. Troops stationed on nonarable
islands in the Pacific were supplied with fresh produce grown in
locally established hydroponic systems. Later in the century,
hydroponics was integrated into the space program. As NASA
considered the practicalities of locating a society on another plant
or the Earth's moon, hydroponics easily fit into their
sustainability plans. Even in Antartica they have several
hydroponic gardens... there was a slight problem however...the salad
vegetables froze while being taken to the kitchen .

Anyone can build a simple, automated hydroponic system without
spending a lot of money. This system is compact enough to fit on a
kitchen windowsill--although it can easily be expanded to
accommodate any growing plant collection. All the materials that are
needed for this system can be found at discount superstores,
aquarium supply stores, or hardware stores for under $25
.Materials needed: Air pump, Timer, Plastic tubing, 2-liter bottle,
Straight through connectors, T connector, Bleed valve, Ice cube
holding bin, Medium, Waterproof glue or silicon caulk, Drill
Use a 2-liter bottle for the nutrient reservoir and an ice cube
holding bin for the plant trough. Once you comprehend the logistics,
feel free to experiment with other containers. To prepare your
nutrient reservoir, drill two holes in the cap of the 2-liter
bottle. The holes should be just big enough to snugly hold the 1/4-
inch straight through connectors. One hole will be for the water
line and the other will be for the air line. Drill a hole in the
side of the trough (the ice cube holding bin) as close to the bottom
as possible. If you plan on expanding your system, drill another
hole on the opposite side. Insert the straight through connectors in
the drilled holes. Create a quality seal around the connectors with
glue or silicon caulk. (it is NOT the one pictured today, it is a
smaller project mentioned here for the Challenge Project)

Create your water distribution hose by drilling several small holes
in a piece of irrigation tubing cut to fit the bottom of the trough.
Connect one end of the tube to one of the fittings on the inside of
the trough. The other end of the tube can be sealed with a dab of
glue or caulk. If you plan on expanding your system, don't seal the
other end. Instead, connect it to the other fitting on the opposite
side of the trough. Connect the water line from the nutrient
reservoir to the trough. Cut another piece of water line to about
the same length as your nutrient reservoir. Then connect this line
to the other side of the water line connector, on the inside of the
bottle cap. The line should hang down to the bottom of the 2-liter
bottle when the cap is on.

Run the air line from the air pump to the other straight through
connector on the cap of the bottle. At some point in the air line,
splice the line to put in the T connector. Off the T, connect the
aquarium air line bleed valve.

Fill your 2-liter bottle with water until it's about three-quarters
full. Reconnect it to your trough and place the trough where it will
be situated. Turn on the air pump and close the air valve. The water
will be pushed into the trough. Gradually ease open the valve until
the water is moving into the trough very slowly. It's okay if it
takes up to a half-hour for the air pump to push all the water out
of the bottle. The goal here is to have the valve closed enough to
allow adequate pressure to build inside the bottle to push the water
out, but open enough to allow air to escape when the pump is off, so
the water can flow back into the bottle.

Now you're ready to add the medium and plants. Expanded clay or lava
rock works well. Any number of plants will work in this system.
Succulent herbs, such as basil and mint, are particularly easy to
grow.

If you want to expand your system, simply build another trough and
attach the incoming water line of the new trough to the end of the
previous trough. Up to two modules of this size could be powered
from the same pump and nutrient bottle.

Flooding and draining the system once a day should be adequate. But
if you're growing a large plant in a sunny location, you may have to
set the system to flood and drain twice a day.

Is anyone running a hydroponic system currently? Let's hear about
it! What system do you run? What do you like about it? Want to
change about it? Do you buy or mix your own nutrients? What plants
(and is there varieties that do better than another?) are you
growing? Post some pictures in our photo album.....


tenzicut - who is building a larger version this winter, but might
do this windowsill one for the apartment

Successful incubation depends on maintaining favorable conditions 
for hatching fertile eggs. Four factors of major importance are 
temperature, humidity, ventilation, and turning. Commercial 
incubators are automated to control all of these factors. With small 
incubators, some of these factors must be controlled manually. 

Small incubators that have various degrees of mechanization are now 
available. Some county Extension offices have incubators that may be 
borrowed. It is also possible to build an incubator using plans. 

Temperature must be closely regulated, and the thermometer should be 
at the same level as the eggs. Commercial incubation is accomplished 
at approximately 99.5 degrees F. Temperature can be controlled 
within plus or minus 0.1 degrees F.Small incubators cannot be 
controlled that closely. If control is within plus or minus 2 
degrees F, hatching is usually successful. If the incubator does not 
have a fan to circulate air (still air incubator), the suggested 
temperature is several degrees higher, about 102 degrees F. Follow 
the manufacturer's instructions. 

Sources for incubators.

Bowles Poultry Supplies 
312 O'Connor Road 
Lucasville, OH 45648 
Phone: 614-372-3973 Cutler's Supply, Inc. 
3805 Washington Road 
Carsonville, MI 48419 
Phone: 810-657-9450 

GQF Manufacturing Co. 
P.O. Box 1552 
Savannah, GA 31498-2701 
Phone: 912-236-0651 Humidaire Incubator Company 
P.O. Box 9 
New Madison, OH 45346 
Phone: 800-410-6925 

Nasco Farm Catalog

Make your own. Many 4H publications have them at no or low cost.


Humidity and Ventilation 
The amount of moisture that is in the air is the relative humidity. 
It is usually measured by a wet bulb thermometer. Function depends 
on the cooling caused by evaporating water. A thermometer is covered 
by a cloth sleeve that extends into a container of water. At a given 
temperature, high humidity causes little water evaporation and 
little cooling of the thermometer; therefore, the wet bulb 
thermometer reading is similar to that of the dry bulb thermometer. 
If the humidity is low, much evaporation occurs, resulting in a 
lowering of wet bulb temperature; therefore, the wet bulb 
temperature is much lower than the dry bulb temperature. 

Humidity must be regulated. Commercial incubation maintains a wet 
bulb temperature of about 85 degrees F for the first 18 days for 
chicken eggs and 91 degrees F for the last 3 days. Humidity should 
be set so that an egg loses 13 percent of its initial weight by the 
last 2 days before hatching. Achieving this weight loss by an 
ostrich egg requires a wet bulb temperature of 70 degrees F. Too 
much or too little humidity in the incubator will cause hatching 
problems and the death of embryos. 

If an incubator has too little moisture, the amount can be increased 
by increasing the area of water available for evaporation. A bigger 
pan can be used, or sponges can be placed in the water. The air flow 
through the incubator might also be decreased. Some air exchange 
between the inside and outside of the incubator should happen 
continuously to replace oxygen used by the developing embryos. When 
that need is met, air exchange can be managed according to heat and 
humidity requirements. More air flow tends to lower incubator 
temperature and humidity. 

Turning Eggs 
In commercial incubation, eggs are placed in flats, and the flats 
are automatically tilted back and forth every hour. The purpose of 
turning is to prevent the developing embryo from sticking to the 
shell. For eggs in small incubators that do not have an automatic 
turner, it is recommended that they be turned at least three times a 
day. 

To assist this procedure, place a mark on each egg with a pencil. 
Alternate the position of the mark when eggs are turned. If eggs are 
incubated in an upright position, the round end always should be up 
and the more pointed end down. Beginning at day 18, chicken eggs 
should no longer be turned. 

The need to turn eggs is being re-examined. There is some evidence 
to suggest that eggs need to be turned for only the first half of 
incubation; however, at this time the safest recommendation is to 
turn chicken eggs for the first 18 days of incubation. 

Incubator Operation 
Incubators have been designed to operate in rooms that are 
comfortable for people. If a room is too hot or cold, an incubator 
may not be able to hold the proper temperature. If the incubator is 
in a room where temperatures are decreased to 55 degrees F over the 
weekend, hatchability will be affected. Start the incubator a day or 
two before incubating the eggs. Be certain that it is operating 
properly before incubating the eggs. 

If several people will be involved with the incubation project, it 
is best to keep a written record. 

When the hatch is completed, disconnect the incubator. The chicks, 
shells, and unhatched eggs should be removed and the interior wiped 
clean with a soapy sponge. It should be permitted to air dry for 
several days before using it again or putting it in storage. 

Hatching Problems 
A good hatch from a small incubator is indicated when 70 percent or 
more of the eggs hatch, and the chicks are active and fluffy. It is 
not unusual for inexperienced incubator operators to encounter 
problems. (Turkey eggs have a very low rate for hatching due to low 
sperm counts - I tended to get one chick per 10 eggs and that is 
whay my mentor who specialized in rare heirloom livestocks got as 
well)

One way to follow the progress of incubation is to candle the eggs. 
An egg candler can be purchased, or a flashlight can be used. Hold a 
small flashlight against an egg in a dark room to candle an egg. 
Part of the inside then becomes visible. By 5 days of incubation, 
blood vessels should be visible if the egg has a white shell. If the 
egg has a brown shell, several more days of incubation may be 
required before blood vessels are visible. If development does not 
occur, the eggs may not be fertile, or there may be serious 
incubation problems. By day 8 or 9, the chick may be startled by the 
light, and its movement can be seen. Candling at later stages of 
incubation should show that the embryo is growing and filling up the 
space inside the egg. 

If there are problems with incubation, the chicks that hatch may 
provide clues about the problem. A list of possible problems and 
suggested solutions is given below. Chicks that have not hatched on 
time may be helped. If the shell is pipped (chick has punched a hole 
from the inside) and there is movement, the egg may be examined. The 
shell can be removed in small pieces. If bleeding occurs, the chick 
is not ready. If no bleeding occurs, the chick can be helped from 
its shell. 

Additional information may be collected by breaking the eggs that 
did not hatch. If they are broken onto a flat surface, the contents 
will indicate an infertile egg or show how far development proceeded 
before death. 

Solving incubation problems.

No blood vessels
at candling Eggs not fertile Check flock management 
Embryo died very early Check egg holding conditions 
Check incubation operation 

Many dead embryos Temperature too high or low Check incubator 
and accuracy of thermometer 
Improper turning Turn 3 times per day 
Poor oxygen supply Increase ventilation 
Poor nutrition Check breeder flock diet 

Piped eggs not
hatching Low humidity Have correct wet bulb temperature 

Hatch too early High temperature Check temperature 

Hatch too late Low temperature Check temperature 

Shells stick to chicks High humidity early
or low humidity late Check humidity 

Cripples Temperature problems Check incubator 
Humidity problems Check incubator 
Improper turning Correct turning 
Smooth hatching trays Provide better traction 

Large, soft-bodied
weak chicks Low temperature Check temperature 
Poor ventilation Improve air flow 

Mushy chicks,
dead on tray Navel infection Improve sanitation 

Rough navels High temperature or wide temperature fluctuations 
Check temperature 
Low moisture Check wet bulb temperature 

tenzicut
I'll tell you what intensive gardening is to me.

Early, I plant sugar podded pea (english peas-snap pea), I will have 
another crop planted and coming up when I am taking down the used up 
vines of the pea crop. I leave the pea vine roots in the ground to 
give up its free nitrogen, and snip its body into tiny pieces and let 
it fall back on top of the bed where it grew to give of its deeply 
retreived nutrients to the top of my growing bed.

Perhaps I'll follow the peas with squash or canteloupe: both of these 
veggies will benefit from what the peas left in the ground. Both of 
these plants sprawl hither and yon, but still allow a bit of sunlight 
to the soil.nbsp; Along toward time the fruits of these begin to wain, 
I'll have sown late fall greens under their leaves.

When I have squash enough, or the leaves begin to tire and brown, 
I'll snip the leaves off even with the plant body, and snip it into 
pieces to fall near where it grew. Same with the 'lopes. 
Occasionally, I'll do vine pruning on the 'lopes to make bigger 
fruits, and create less stress on the plant. 

The greens coming up under these sprawlers will then be the 3rd crop 
raised on the same bits of soil--hence--INTENSIVE gardening.
Jon 
************
And again:
intensive gardening is:

Basically put it is using every inch of available space. Traditional 
gardening had neat rows of veggies, evenly spaced with rows between, 
and lots of bare earth showing. Intensive gardening plants crops 
together, sharing the same spaces, with little to no dirt showing at 
all. Carrots and onions and nasturtiums surrounding tomatoes and 
peppers, bean teepees covering thickly sown beds of leafy greens, 
radishes in between cabbages and broccoli, Corn planted with beans 
and cucurbits...herbs and self seeding plants growing here and there 
also help to improve things. Mints help to improve the flavor of 
tomato and pepper and eggplants, they also attract beneficial 
insects. Borage attracts pollinators, as does dill and fennel.

When one crop is ready to fade out, you cut it off at soil level, and 
put in another crop right in the bare spot. If you plant a few 
seeds a week, rather than using the whole packet at once, then you 
can harvest enough produce each week, without having too much at 
once. The same holds with most veggies. Even potatoes can be 
planted early, mid and late season. Planting pole beans and vining 
tomatoes and cucurbits will extend your harvesting season, too. 

All in all, intensive gardening is just using every square inch of 
soil to plant in, by growing vertically, sucession planting, 
companion planting, etc... It can take some trial and error to get a 
really good system, especially if you want to rotate your crops as 
well. Once you have hit on a good system, however, you will find 
that your fertilization, watering, and pest control problems nearly 
vanish.
Jon Wood

Laundry Soap

One large bar of ivory soap (but you can use any soap as long as it is pure
soap)
1 cup washing soda or borax
6 litres of hot tap water in a bucket

Grate the soap in a pot and cover with water. Melt soap over mediaum heat but
do not boil, stir occasionally to aid dissolving process. When done put it
into 6 litres of hot water (tap water) in a bucket to combine. Then add the cup 
of washing soda and stir to dissolve. When this mix cools it will becom a white
gelatious substance. After sitting some liquid will develop on it but use it
with the gel it works fine.
Use 1 cup per wash.





Is there such a thing as a standard hay-bale dimension? Has anyone 
constructed using this? Since it's fairly "temporary", I want to have it 
built to be able to tear down quickly, so no concrete forms - would 
gravel over plastic work? The whole thing will sit on a mat of landscape 
fabric and I'll probably lay down gravel on the inside to walk on. Or 
sitting the bales on those flat cinderblocks instead? I also plan on 
encasing the straw bale walls with a wood frame exterior wall that will 
support the plastic as well as the door, two windows and a space for a 
small swamp-cooler. The walls will be bolted together for quick 
disassembly. Would setting them on cinderblocks work fine enough? I 
don't want rot, but I also don't want poured concrete in the event I 
need to remove and reposition the greenhouse later on. I figure wrapping 
the bale walls with plastic will help to keep moisture out. I won't be 
able to plaster it for mobility issues tho.
Cheers,
Mike
~~~
After researching hay-bale construction and the moisture aspect of it, I 
have to agree that it may be a problem for a greenhouse whose interior 
humidity would be near 100% anyway - especially if I use a swamp cooler 
during the summer. So perhaps just framing it and insulating would be 
the way. The east and west would have full height walls excepting a door 
on the west and one window each on the west and east as well as a small 
swamp cooler on the west - probably above the door. The dimensions will 
be 8x16'. Modest, but enough to cram my tropicals into. The front will 
have a an insulated wall up to the top of the bench. Why not since I 
won't have any plants down below the bench anyway? Eliminate one more 
point of heat-loss. Above that to 8' and then a slanted roof to 10' will 
be covered with plastic - tho I may end up replacing the front plastic 
with regular windows later on. I already have a lot of the wood and the 
bench as well as the ground-fabric. We'll see. Gotta do it here pretty 
quickly - in 3 months or so I may get a frost. My goal is to be able to 
keep the enclosure above 60F during the coldest part of winter here. 
Snow's not a problem - we rarely get any. But sometimes it can dip into 
the teens at night. The east and west get chilling winds, so I'll wall 
those up and insulate them good.

Cheers,
Mike

colleen wrote:

 I would be worried about the moisture inside the bales causing them to
 rot if they cannot breathe...maybe it wouldn't matter with you being
 in Texas?? If I'm not mistaken, that's where you are. What about
 plastic sheeting for the walls that you only need to roll up and down
 to control the temperature inside?Then you'd only have to build a
 frame....I like your thinking though, Mike..let us know HOW you make out.
  Colleen
~~~


Seed Saving : Lettuce

Lettuce is also a wonderful seed saving project for the beginner. 
Lettuce is very rare to cross pollinate, they have perfect flowers 
which pollinate themselves before the flower opens.

It seems that all lettuces are OP and are not hybrids. I could be 
wrong on this, but I have never seen one.

As a precaution you may want to separate lettuces you are saving seed 
from by 25 feet. Allow plants to bolt and go to seed, but pull and 
discard the early bolters, otherwise you are breeding that tendancy 
for early bolting into your 'custom made seeds'.

Bag bolting seed heads with paper bags to prevent bird and rain 
damage. Seeds are produced over a 2-3 week period and may require 
repeated picking.

tenzicut - who hopes that if she cant save Open Pollinated seed this 
year, she may inspire someone else to.
Subject: [HF] Long Term Egg Storage Experiment


From Mother Earth News -

If you've ever kept a flock of chickens, you're probably aware of a basic
perversity of homestead life: While your family's consumption of eggs tends
to remain fairly constant year round ... your hens' production of the
delicious edibles doesn't.

Is there a way to level out this feast-or-famine scheme of things ... is
there a way for you to stash away one month's surplus cackleberries and
then eat 'em, say, six or eight months later?

Yep. Several forms of egg storage are supposed to make it possible for you
to do just that. As MOTHER's continuing tests have already proven, however,
some of those "guaranteed" methods of storage work a whole lot better than
others!

----------

The start of MOTHER's Great Egg Race

According to an old joke, "The best way to keep an egg fresh is to keep it
in the chicken." A heck of a bunch of MOTHER readers, though, must find
that a little hard to do. Because if we've been asked once since founding
this magazine, we've been asked a thousand times, "is there any way I can
save one month's surplus eggs ... and then use them six or eight months
later?"

Well, for several years, we answered that question by recommending one or
another (or several) of the "guaranteed, gen-u-wine egg preservation"
methods that we'd run across in old farm magazines, ancient Department of
Agriculture pamphlets, and other sources. And, although we usually asked
the folks we'd advised to let us know how the ideas worked, we never ...
seemed .... to hear f rom them ....... again.

And that left us with, at best, an uneasy feeling right about here. "What
happened, anyway?" we asked each other. "Did the idea (or ideas) work? Were
the eggs good? After how long? Were they bad? When did they go bad? And how
bad did they get? Could they still have been eaten in a pinch? Maybe they
were still good, but they just changed color ... or texture .... or
something. WHAT HAPPENED, ANYWAY?"

But nobody seemed able-or willing-to tell us. So we mulled that over for a
while and finally, about seven months ago, we figured that enough was
enough. "By grannies," we told each other, "we'll just set up a test
that'll-once and for final-answer all the questions we have about
preserving eggs."

And that's exactly what we did. We went out and bought ourselves 30 dozen
guaranteed fresh, washed, uniform-sized, agribiz-type, unfertile,
supermarket eggs from a wholesaler ... and we also rounded up another 30
dozen fresh, unwashed, nonuniform, homestead-type, fertile, non-supermarket
eggs.

20 CONTROLLED BATCHES OF 36 EGGS EACH

We suspected from the beginning that there might be a difference in the
keeping qualities of fertile versus unfertile eggs. (Our tests have since
shown that there is ... and that difference is weighed heavily in favor of
the fertile eggs, but perhaps not for the reasons you might have thought.)
So we started right off by dividing our 60 dozen hen fruit right down the
middle, with 30 dozen fertile eggs on one side and 30 dozen unfertile eggs
on the other.

Each set of 360 eggs was then further divided into 10 separate batches of
three dozen each: [1] a control group that was left sitting out at room
temperature, [2] a batch that was kept under "controlled refrigeration" . .
. that is, 36 eggs which were put into an airtight container and stored at
a constant 35ø to 40øF, [3] a group that was completely covered by a
solution of 9 parts water and 1 part sodium silicate, also known as
"waterglass", [4] a group that was submerged in a 16 parts water/2 parts
lime/1 part salt solution, [5] a batch that was packed in lard, [6] a group
that was merely coated with lard, [7] three dozen that were coated with
vaseline, [8] 36 eggs that were packed in dry sand, [9] three dozen that
were packed in wet sand, and [10] 36 eggs that were packed in dry sawdust.
Except for the refrigerated batch, all the groups of eggs were stored at a
room temperature which varied from 65ø to 70ø F.

AND ONCE A MONTH ...

Our experiment was set up on February 4, 1977 and was designed to run for a
full year of regular monthly "look, sniff, taste, and texture" tests. It
very quickly became apparent, however, that some of the "preservation"
methods we were trying were worse than no attempts at preservation at all.
The eggs (both fertile and unfertile) buried in both the wet sand and
sawdust looked bad, smelled bad, had lost their taste, and had runny
textures just one month after being "preserved". Even the control
groups-eggs which were just allowed to lay out at room temperature with
nothing done to them-were better than that. Conclusion after only four
weeks: Trying to store eggs in either wet sand or dry sawdust is
counterproductive. Forget it. Anything else-even nothing at allworks better.

Surprisingly enough, the control eggs-although slightly mushy and
musty-were still edible a full eight weeks after our tests began. Except
for one El Stinko waterglassed egg (which must have had an unnoticed crack
in its shell at the beginning of the experiment), however, the other seven
batches still in the running were all much better. Which meant that the
"preservation" methods they represented really were preserving the hen
fruit to one extent or another.

Believe it or not, our controls (both fertile and unfertile) were hanging
in there yet after another full four weeks had passed. If we'd had our
druthers, understand, we'd have eaten something else ... but, under
survival conditions, we could have lived on the completely unprotected
90-day-old eggs if we'd have had to. Some of the other groups, on the other
hand, were becoming a little disappointing. Most of them (even the
refrigerated ones) had more or less runny whites, one of the refrigerated
store-boughts smelled bad, all the vaseline-coated eggs were marginal, one
of the fertilized eggs packed in dry sand had a bad sulphur taste, and a
store-bought kept in waterglass was very definitely bad.

By June (120 days after the experiment was begun) all the supermarket and
all the homestead control eggs had gone completely rotten. The dry sand
groups (both fertile and unfertile) were also terminated at that time ...
as were the store-boughts that had been coated with vaseline (the
vaseline-coated homestead eggs were only marginally better). The fertile
and unfertile eggs packed in lard were getting pretty "iffy", the ones
coated with lard were doing a lot better, the lime water groups were still
edible (although, in the case of the supermarket eggs, barely edible), the
refrigerated eggs seemed to have firmed up and were nearly as good as
fresh, and-while the waterglassed groups were, in general, doing far better
than average-one of the fertile eggs covered with waterglass was very
definitely bad.

The ranks of the still-good eggs began to thin considerably 150 days into
our test. By July, the supermarket eggs packed in lard weren't making it
anymore (while the fertile eggs packed in lard were runny but edible).
Likewise the waterglassed eggs. The lime water store-boughts, on the other
hand, were still "good" (except for the one we didn't even open, since it
floated), while the lime water homestead hen fruit was only "edible". Both
the agribiz and the down-home eggs coated with lard were "good enough to
eat for breakfast". While-maybe just by contrast-the store-bought
refrigerated cackleberries were "good, like fresh" and the homestead
refrigerated hen fruit was "excellent".

August, of course, was more of the same. The lard-packed fertile eggs were
still "OK", the waterglassed fertiles were still "OK", the lime water
homestead eggs were barely edible and the lime water store-boughts were
rotten. The lard-coated hen fruit (both fertile and unfertile) all looked
weird ... but could be eaten. Which really only left the refrigerated
supermarket and refrigerated homestead eggs as "good" and "looks almost
fresh".

The fertile eggs packed in lard, coated with lard, preserved in waterglass,
and covered by lime water were still all "OK" in September. The
store-boughts coated with lard were not. Leaving, again, as the Big Winners
the refrigerated fertile eggs ("good") and the refrigerated unfertile eggs
("good, almost fresh").

CONCLUSIONS

At the end of seven months (all of our experiment that was finished and
processed at the time this issue went to press), then, we had drawn these
conclusions about our egg preservation experiment:

[1] Unwashed, fertile homestead eggs seem to store much better than washed,
unfertile agribiz eggs. Why? Probably for the simple reason that they're
unwashed ... and not because they're fertile. Hen fruit, as it comes from
the chicken, is coated with a light layer of a natural sealing agent called
"bloom". And, while a good wash may make a batch of eggs look more
attractive, it also removes this natural protective coating ... leaving the
eggs more subject to aging and attack by the air and bacteria in the air.

[2] The very best way we've found to stash eggs away for long-term storage
is in a sealed container at a temperature of 35ø to 40øF. Their whites may
become somewhat runny looking over a period of time, buteven after seven
months-the cackleberries stored in this manner smell good, taste good, have
a good texture, and-in short-seem "almost fresh".

[3] The widely touted idea of covering eggs with a solution of one part
waterglass (sodium silicate) mixed with nine parts of boiled and cooled
water does indeed seem to work better than any other "room temperature"
preservation method we tried. If our experiences are any indication,
though, it's really good for only about five months and is a distant second
to controlled refrigeration.

Another point: As good as some eggs kept in waterglass were, almost every
batch we opened seemed to contain one real stinker. Which makes it a
superior idea to open any waterglassed egg (or any egg, for that matter)
separately into a cup ... where it may be inspected before pouring it into
a skillet, pan, or dish with other food.

[4] Unwashed, fertile eggs submerged in a solution of 16 parts water/2
parts lime/1 part salt, packed in lard, and coated with lard seem to keep
at room temperature almost as well as unwashed fertile eggs that have been
given the waterglass treatment. Washed, unfertile eggs do not.

[5] Unwashed, fertile eggs packed in dry sand or coated with vaseline and
stored at room temperature keep a little longer-but not much-than unwashed
fertile eggs that are just left lying out at room temperature. Washed,
unfertile eggs exhibit the same characteristics ... with all storage times
running a few days less across the board.

[6] Forget packing any kind of eggs in wet sand or sawdust! Our tests show
that such methods of "preservation" can turn eggs rotten within a month and
are worse than doing nothing at all to the hen fruit.

We'll give you a further report on MOTHER's Great Egg Preservation
Experiment sometime next spring ... after the completion of the test's full
one-year cycle.

###
**************************
I use a 5 gal bucket filled with NON city water. Get a willow limb 
and cut 2-inch pieces. A good double handful. Put the willow pieces 
into an old pillow case, sock, etc. and tie the top. Toss it into 
the water bucket-it is better if the sock is weighted to the bottom 
of the bucket.

Sit it out in the sun for....3 or so days. Then use this water for 
rooting cuttings, or watering new transplants.

Jonsnagged from my crafting group from Joy OH.

How to Make Your Own Wicks for Candles

*Dissolve 2 tablespoons of table salt and 4 tablespoons of borax in 1
1/2 cups of warm water. 
Soak a 1-foot length of regular cotton kite string or twine in the
solution for 15 minutes. 
Hang each string with a clothespin for 5 days to be sure it is
completely dry. 
Use a paperclip to dip each string completely in melted wax 3 to 4
times, coating it completely. 
Hang it up to dry as before... 
Store wicks rolled up in a newspaper.


TIPS: 
Add a teaspoon of one of these chemicals to the *initial soak for
colored flames:

Strontium Chloride for a brilliant red flame,
Boric Acid for a deep red flame,
Calcium for a red-orange flame,
Calcium Chloride for a yellow-orange flame,
Table Salt for a bright yellow flame,
Borax for a yellow-green flame,
Copper Sulfate (blue vitrol/bluestone) for a green flame,
Calcium Chloride for a blue flame, 
Potassium Sulphate or Potassium Nitrate (saltpeter) for a violet 
flame,
Epsom Salts for a white flame.

***WARNING: 
Add ONLY ONE (1) chemical for color variation.


DeeSeveral species of maple trees grow in North America. Though all 
produce sap suitable for the production of maple syrup, two species 
of sugar maple (Acer saccharum) and black maple (A. nigrum), are the 
source of sap for most commercial maple production. Sap suitable for 
conversion into syrup may also be obtained from red and silver 
maples, though such sap usually has a lower sugar content. 

Sugar maple is a common tree throughout most of eastern North 
America. In addition to its use for sap production, sugar maple is a 
valuable tree for lumber and is used extensively in fine furniture, 
It has been widely planted as a shade and ornamental tree. 

EQUIPMENT NECESSARY 

Maple syrup can be produced with a minimum of equipment, but a few 
standard items increase the efficiency of the operation and the 
quality of the product: 

1. A drill with a 7/16- or 1/2-inch bit for drilling tap-holes in 
trees. 

2. A metal or plastic collection spout for each tap-hole. 

3. A collection container (bucket or plastic bag) or tubing line for 
each tap-hole. 

4. A large pan and a heat source for boiling down the sap. The size 
needed will depend on how much sap you intend to handle. 

5. A large-scale thermometer calibrated at least 15 degrees above 
the boiling point of water. 

6. Wool, orlon or other filters for filtering finished syrup while 
hot. 

7. Storage facilities and containers for the finished syrup. 

TAPPING THE TREE 

To obtain the earliest runs of sap, tapping should be completed by 
the middle of February. Minimal trunk diameter for trees suitable 
for tapping is 10 inches at 4 feet above the ground. 

To tap a tree, select a spot on the trunk of the tree 2 to 4 feet 
above the ground in an area that appears to contain sound wood. At 
this point, drill a hole approximately 2 to 2.5 inches deep into the 
wood. Then insert a collection spout (spile) and tap lightly into 
the tree, and attach a bucket or plastic bag or a tubing line to the 
spout. Open buckets used for sap collection should be covered to 
keep out rainwater, debris, insects and other foreign materials. 

COLLECTING THE SAP 

Sap flow in maple trees will not occur every day throughout the 
tapping season. It occurs when a rapid warming trend in early to 
midmorning follows a cool (below freezing) night. Thus, the amount 
of sap produced varies from day to day. Normally, a single tap-hole 
produces from a quart to a gallon of sap per flow period (from a few 
hours to a day or more), with a seasonal accumulation of 10 to 12 
gallons per tap-hole likely. 

To produce high quality syrup, sap collections should be made as 
required, not exceeding every two or three days. If this is not 
possible, collections obtained from prolonged flow periods should be 
stored and processed separately. During periods of rather low 
temperatures and under favorable storage conditions, sap may be kept 
four or five days without reducing syrup quality. 

The amount of sap required to produce a gallon of maple syrup 
varies, depending on its sugar concentration. Sap averages 
approximately 2 percent sugar. At this concentration, 43 gallons of 
sap are required to produce 1 gallon of syrup. If the sap contains a 
higher sugar concentration, less sap will be required 

Producing maple syrup is essentially a matter of concentrating the 
sugar solution to a predetermined level through evaporation. Heat is 
used to concentrate the sap and to develop the characteristic maple 
color and flavor that make maple syrup so highly desirable. 

In large commercial operations, a continuous feed evaporation 
process is used. That is, the evaporation pan is arranged so that 
sap may be continuously added and syrup drawn off. In smaller 
operations, a "batch" approach is used. The evaporation pan is 
filled with sap and sap is added as necessary to replace that lost 
by evaporation. When a suitable amount of concentrated sap is 
present, the pan is "finished-off" to produce syrup of the correct 
density. 

To begin evaporation, fill the evaporating container (preferably a 
large shallow pan) with sap. Begin heating the sap to the boiling 
point, taking care not to burn or scorch the sap. (A Teflon-coated 
pan is ideal.) As evaporation lowers the level of sap in the pan, 
add more sap. Continue this process until most of the sap in the pan 
is highly concentrated and the boiling point of the sap begins to 
rise above the boiling point of water. 

Throughout this process, it may be necessary occasionally to skim 
the surface of the boiling liquid to remove surface foam and other 
materials. Finished syrup boils at 7 degrees above the boiling point 
of water. As the temperature of the boiling sap approaches this 
point, boiling should be carefully controlled to prevent burning and 
overheating. 

Once the desired boiling point has been reached, the syrup is ready 
for filtering and packaging. Hot syrup should be filtered through a 
suitable filter of wool or orlon to remove suspended particles, such 
as sugar sand, and improve the appearance of the syrup. After 
filtering, the syrup should be packaged, also while hot. A 
temperature of at least 180 degrees F is necessary to prevent 
spoiling while in storage. 

OTHER MAPLE PRODUCTS 

Maple syrup may be used as is, of course, or it may be converted 
into other highly desirable products. Maple sugar, maple candy and 
maple fudge are just a few of the many other maple products. 
Basically, these are made by concentrating finished syrup to a 
greater density and stirring the highly concentrated syrup. Recipes 
for a variety of maple products may be obtained by contacting the 
local county Extension office. (or by writing to the Department of 
Forestry at Michigan State University, or some of the other main 
Maple Sugaring States). 

Maple syrup and sugar are among the oldest agricultural commodities 
produced in the United States. Native Americans are generally 
credited with discovering how to convert maple sap into maple syrup. 
The importance of maple products for local trade was established 
well before the arrival of the first European settlers in North 
America. Maple syrup production is confined to the northeastern 
portion of the United States, with the largest amounts produced in 
Vermont and New York. Until rather recently, maple syrup and sugar 
have been strictly a "sideline" farm crop; however, the production 
of maple syrup and other maple products is often a full-time 
operation. Maple syrup is one agricultural crop in which there is no 
surplus. In fact, demand far exceeds the available supply. The 
industry is not expanding, even though less than 1 percent of the 
potential resource is being used. 

I have been told that the Pacific Bigleaf Maple in the PNW will also 
produce Maple Syrup, but the sugar content is lower and therefore 
larger amounts of sap will be needed, maybe up to double of that 
from the Sugar Maples. I think it is something like a 40 to 1 or a 
50 to one for the Birches.

Other links:
http://www.massmaple.org/myo.html (this one says to use 
elderberry..DONT!!!!! Elderberry bark, leaves and seeds are TOXIC!)



tenzicut

Make Molasses Fertilizer
From:   Michael Vanecek <mike@mjv.com> 
Date:  Sat Oct 18, 2003  6:46 pm
Subject:  Re: {OHG} Jon . . . fertilizing with molasses?

Liquid molasses - 1-3 Tablespoons to the gallon.
Granular molasses (from feed stores) - 10lb per 1000 sq ft.

Remember - molasses is sugar - apply *very* infrequently and sparingly
lest you suffer rot problems due to sugar induced bacterial bloom. Once
annually on the lawn and garden. Perhaps the same in potted plants too.
I predigest my molasses in my humus tea fermenter to avoid bacterial
bloom - I mix in vermicompost and aerate it for 24 hours. That way I can
use it more to reap more benefits like the trace minerals present and am
able to boost microbial levels in the soil and on plant surfaces pretty
safely.

Have fun,
Mike

What is needed to make perfumes

Decisions

Choosing a formulation
Perfumes are made up of a blend of different aromas that usually come
from essential oils. One may find some perfume formulations in books or in
the Web. Some sites that have a few of these formulas are given in the links
section. Look after a description that characterizes the perfume you want 
(not always given) and choose one or two of them. You are now ready to
buy its components.

Weight or volume
Perfume formulations can be expressed in volumetric or weight proportions of 
each of its components. For people who want to make perfumes at home, weight 
measures present a problem since the average kitchen balance does not have the 
required precision. Using them will lead to unpredictable and non-reproducible 
results. Buying a more precise balance represents an
added cost which is hard to justify for the present purpose. Volume 
measurements are easier to perform with less expensive hardware that meet the
level of 
accuracy needed for home made perfumes.

Which material
Appropriate hardware is required in order to measure, handle, mix and bottle 
the components that make up a perfume's formulation. Although it is possible 
to make use of improvised solutions like using kitchenware, disposable glass 
jelly jars and plastic spoons, one has to bear in mind that formulations are 
quite precise and that some materials, like plastics, may interact with
essential 
oils and solvents. Therefore, to get good and reproducible results, some care 
has to be taken when selecting your hardware.

Glass
Of the basic handling materials available, glass has many advantages over
metals and plastics. Glass is  transparent allowing to see what is being done 
and  the results achieved after each operation. All  volumeals and plastics. 
Glass is  transparent allowing to see what is being measurements can be 
performed with an acceptable degree of precision in graduated glass beakers, 
burettes and syringes, eliminating all need of external measuring devices.
Glass does 
not interact with any components of the perfume's formulation. Glass is 
easily washable and dried and can withstand high temperatures and thermal
shock, a 
handy feature when preparing cosmetics and balms. The additional costs 
incurred by using graduated glass will certainly be well paid for by the ease
in 
operation and constant quality of the perfumes you make.

Glassware For volume measurements
To measure volumes one can use three different  types   of graduated
glassware. Cylindrical vessels   with  a "lip" called beakers where the 
mixture   of  all  components of the formulation will be   made.  When making 
perfumes at home, it is   very  unlike  that  quantities will exceed 500 ml 
or  
16.91 US fluid ounces. A graduated beaker of this capacity is appropriate. 
The 
majority of the components of a formulation are required in smaller volumes, 
seldom exceeding 50 ml or 1.69 US fluid ounces. A burette, a tall graduated 
cylindrical vessels of this capacity is a good measuring device or this
purpose. 
Some of the components are required in smaller amounts. For these, it is 
convenient to have a small syringe of 2 ml or 0.0676 US fluid ounces.

Funnels and pipets
For transferring the perfumes to their bottles, a funnel with a long and
narrow neck should be used. Again glass is the choice material since you
can watch the operation and avoid waist. A long and narrow neck is
recommended because perfume bottles have narrow openings and the maximum 
perfume level is well below the bottle's top. For mixing one can use a glass
rod 
of the kind used to mix cocktails.

Very often formulations prescribe the addition of drops of a certain
component. Drop volumes vary for the same substance. However, the
formulas assume a constant volume generally obtained with a glass pipet like 
the ones that come with some household remedies. Therefore, using them will 
provide the quantities recommended by the formulations.

Aromas
Quality
The final quality achieved when making a perfume is tied to the quality of 
all components that are used. Of these, aromas are the most important ones
since 
they determine the perfume's intrinsic properties like personality and tone. 
It is therefore very important to buy the best essential oils that one can.
One should also be aware that some dealers offer ready made mixtures that 
supposedly have the same aroma of a well known high quality commercial perfume. 
The original products are the creation of skilled perfumers that have developed 
and perfected very complex formulations for years before they reach the 
market. Most of them use rare and very expensive natural essential oils. It is
easy 
to imagine what one gets when buying a cheap imitation of these perfumes.

Natural or synthetic
Essential oils may be natural or synthetic. The latter ones are mass produced 
to supply the demand of scents needed for various uses, from
perfumes to home cleaning products. There is a good deal of concern
about the effects of these substances in humans, mainly because natural
products have been in use for centuries and their adverse effects are better
known. This is a good reason to prefer natural essential oils. However, there 
is a long way between this choice and actually getting true natural products. 
The safest one is to find a supplier that has been in business for a long 
time and that will provide a certificate of origin and purity of the sold
products.

Quantity
Pure natural essential oils are expensive. Before  buying   any, one should 
download a list of the  usually   available oils supplied by a vendor, watch 
the   prices and select a formula taking also into   account how much one is 
prepared to spend. Start buying small quantities (usually 25 ml bottles) and
make 
some experiments before ordering more. Click on the thumbnail to see a pair 
of high quality bottles of Verbena and Ylang Ylang essential oils.

Storing
Oils have their properties changed with time due to oxidation and the effect 
of light. Good quality essential oils are sold in airtight amber bottles that 
decrease these effects. Some of them also have an internal and practical 
dropper. Keep your stock in a dry and dark place.

Solvent and fixative
Alcohol and Glycerin
The most widely used solvent for the oils employed in perfume making is
anhydrous pure Grain Ethanol which is a high purity Ethyl Alcohol obtained by 
fermentation and distillation of cereal grains. The physical
properties of this substance are given at:

http://www.distill.com/specs/US-2.html

Note that the amount of residual non-volatile substances left after 
evaporation is extremely small. This small amount has little interference with
the 
scent of the aromas that are added to the alcohol. Since it may be difficult or 
even impossible to get this type of alcohol in your country, the most widely 
alternative adopted is to employ a good quality distilled beverage obtained
from 
grains, like Vodka.

Fixatives
Fixatives are used to depress the evaporation rate of essential oils, the 
main cause of a perfume loosing its scent with time. These substances
traditionally where obtained from natural sources, either vegetable or
animal. Today synthetic substances are widely used. One of the most
popular family of fixatives are Phtalates, substances also present in car
interiors due to its use by the plastic industry. Glycerin is an alternative
substance often employed.

Precautions and regulations
Phtalates are know have carcinogenic effects and to provoke allergic 
reactions. Glycerin may cause allergic reactions in some people. If you intend
to use 
Glycerin, test your skin's reaction by deposing a very small quantity of the 
pure substance over your skin and watch for any effects in the next 24 hours. 
Considering that essential oils do not have a very fast evaporation rate at 
atmospheric pressure, you may, in doubt, leave
fixatives out of your formulations. Further reading on the adverse effects of 
substances that enter in cosmetics and perfume formulas can be found at:

http://www.ameliaww.com/fpin/fpin.htm

Information about regulations concerning these substances can be found
at:

http://www.supernet.net/~jackibar/fda.html.



Paper has a rich, colourful history which has spanned the world's
geography and its cultures.

Paper is a part of our everyday lives, but few of us know much about
how it is made. It turns out that making paper is not particularly
difficult, especially if you use old paper scraps as your base. With
a little practise and a few tools, you can learn to make beautiful
homemade papers that can be used for notes, cards or gift wrap.

Paper is made from cellulose (SELL-u-los), which is in plant fibers.
The cellulose is made by cutting down trees and then grinding up
trees and dumping the woodpulp in acid. Not a pretty picture.
Cutting down trees is not good for the planet. But recycling uses
cellulose over and over again. Recycled paper can be made with less
electricity, with less water, with a lot less pollution, and it
saves trees from being cut down. Making recycled paper yourself is
also lots of fun.

When we think of the origins of paper, our minds think of 5000 years
ago to the Nile river valley in Egypt. It was there that a marsh
grass called Cyperous Papyrus flourished. The Egyptians cut thin
strips from the plant's stem and softened them in the muddy waters
of the Nile. These strips were then layered in right angles to form
a kind of mat. The mat was then pounded into a thin sheet and left
in the sun to dry. The resulting sheets were ideal for writing on.
Since they were also lightweight and portable they became the
writing medium of choice of Egyptians, Greeks and Romans for record
keeping, spiritual texts and works of art. It is from papyrus that
the word paper comes from. Although papyrus sheets were similar to
paper in terms of function, being laminated sheets they were
technically more like a mat and therefore not the same as the papers
of today. Similar processes were developed in other lands - in
Central America during the 2nd Century AD the Mayans fashioned a
similar product for bookmaking. In the Pacific Islands, a paper was
made by beating a fine bark over specially shaped logs to make
clothes and ritual objects. However, none of these sheets would
qualify as true paper today.

Paper as we know it today comes from another source - China.
Excavations of tombs of the former Han Dynasty (207BC-9AD) have
revealed silk cloth bearing the texts of Lao Tzu - the father of
Taoism (born in 604BC). In 105 AD, Han Emperor Ho-Ti's chief eunuch
T'sai Lun experimented with a wide variety of materials and refined
the process of macerating the fibre of plants until each filament
was completely separate. The individual fibres were mixed with water
in a large vat. Next, a screen was submerged in the vat and lifted
up through the water,catching the fibers on its surface. When dried,
this thin layer of intertwined fiber became what today we call
paper. T'sai Lun's thin, yet flexible and strong paper with its
fine, smooth surface was known as T'sai Ko-Shi ,
meaning: "Distinguished T'sai's Paper" and he became revered as the
patron saint of papermaking.

It wasn't until the 3rd century that the secret art of papermaking
began to creep out of China, first to Vietnam and then Tibet. It was
introduced in Korea in the 4th century and spread to Japan in 6th.
There, during the 8th century, the Empress Shotuka undertook a
massive project consisting of printing a million prayers - dharani -
on individual sheets of paper, with each mounted in its own pagoda.
With such a profound inception, it is not surprising that the fine
art of papermaking has continued in Japan to this day, garnering
deep appreciation and ever increasing sophistication.

Papermaking spread slowly throughout Asia to Nepal and later to
India. It made its true push westward in 751AD when the Tang Dynasty
was at war with the Islamic world. During a battle on the banks of
the Tarus river, Islamic warriors captured a Chinese caravan which
happened to include several papermakers. They spirited them away to
Samarkand, which soon became a great centre for paper production.
Gradually papermakers made their way further west through the Muslim
world - to Baghdad, Damascus and Cairo. Finally, when the Moors from
North Africa invaded Spain and Portugal they brought the technology
with them and so it was that papermaking entered Europe in the 12th
century.

In Europe, the use of papyrus had dropped out in the 9th century.
The preferred medium for the artists and literati of the time was
the smooth and lustrous parchment. However, parchment - made from
animal skin - was extremely expensive. In fact, it has been
estimated that a single bible hand written on parchment required the
skins of 300 sheep. The notion of paper being used as a practical
everyday item did not occur until the 15th Century. When Johann
Gutenburg perfected movable type and printed his famous bible in
1456, he not only spread the word of Christianity, but also sparked
a revolution in mass communication. The birth of the modern paper
and printing industry is commonly marked from this date.

Printing technology rapidly developed and created an ever increasing
demand for paper. The early European papers were made from recycled
cotton and linen - and a huge trade quickly developed around the
trading of old rags. It is said that the black plague entered
England from Europe on these old rags. Yet soon this source became
insufficient and some curious attempts were made to source new
materials - the most macabre of which was the recycling of Egyptian
mummies to create wrapping paper! Others experimented with fibres
such as straw, cabbage, wasp nests and finally wood, resulted in
inexpensive - and replaceable - materials for paper making. Today,
the long soft fibres of softwoods such as spruce have become the
most suitable source of pulp for mass production.

The demand for paper also created the need for greater efficiency in
production. In the late 18th century the labors of Nicholas Luis
Robert resulted in the creation of a machine that could produce a
seamless length of paper on a endless wire mesh with squeeze rollers
at one end. Perfected and marketed by the Fourdrinier brothers, the
new machine made papers soon replaced traditional single sheets made
by hand. In Europe and America, the mass-production of paper became
a thriving industry supplying huge volumes of paper for the
production of newspapers, books, magazines, paper bags, toilet
paper, money and a huge variety of other purposes - including
clothing, chimney's and even coffins! Today, the increasing volume
of paper consumption has become a complex environmental matter - and
the need for new materials increasingly urgent. While recycling has
done some good, much paper is still wasted.

In the west, as industrial paper production boomed the art of hand
paper-making has been driven nearly to extinction - being practiced
only by a few fine artists and crafts people. However, in small
areas throughout Asia, the tradition has lived on. Incidentally, the
traditional Asian paper which is often referred to as "rice paper"
is not made from rice fibres at all. More commonly it is made from
the versatile mulberry tree - varieties of which are also used for
feeding silkworms and in medicine. In contrast to the cold precision
and standardisation which industrial production demands, the soft,
subtle textures and natural feeling of hand made paper is said to
echo the warm heart of the papermaker who makes each sheet with
devotion.

In Thailand there are records of paper making going back seven
hundred years. Traditional uses of paper have been for Buddhist
texts, temple writings and ritual purposes. It used to be that paper
was made from the inner bark of the Khoi tree Streblus Asper (L.)
Lour. Earlier in the 20th century paper production from Khoi began
to die out because of a shortage of Khoi trees. It was not until the
Japanese occupied the kingdom during the second world war that paper
making again flourished in Thailand. For centuries the Japanese had
been making paper called "Kozo" from the inner bark of the mulberry
tree Broussonetia Papyrifera (L.) Vent. In Thailand the mulberry
tree - known as "sa" - grew in abundance and the Japanese demand for
maps, banknotes and other documents caused sa paper production to
flourish. The mulberry tree is still abundant in Thailand - growing
wild all over the Northern forest and lowland areas - and Thai
artisans continue to produce handmade paper using the same technique
that they have done for centuries. Yet, as international demand for
these products is increasing, new speciality papers are being
developed which incorporate colour dyes, flower petals and other
materials into their design. HQ Group were among the first people in
Thailand to produce sa papers incorporating petals and leaves nearly
ten years ago and our original paper sheet designs using
bougainvillea petals and tamarind leaves, for example, are still
hugely popular internationally


Material List:
Paper scraps (see plan for details regarding paper selection)
Warm water
Cornstarch (sometimes called cornflour - but not cornmeal!)

You will need:
Large bucket or tub
Rigid frame or tools/materials for making one - see below for
details
Standard knife or spoon
Paper towels
Window screen
Metal snips or utility scissors for cutting screen.

To make paper, you will need a frame with an inside dimension
slightly larger than the sheets you plan to make. You can use an old
picture frame or even a standard window screen frame - anything that
will allow you to provide rigidity for the mesh. We found an old
piece of polycarbonate plastic and cut a frame out of it as shown on
the right. This works very well because it is easy to handle. To
create the cutout, we simply drilled four holes in the corners and
then cut the opening with a jigsaw. You can also assemble a frame
using wood slats along with nails or screws. It doesn't have to be
elaborate.

When your frame is finished, you are ready to make the pulp. The
choice of paper is important and the best way to find what works
best is to experiment with different papers and different
combinations. The more fibrous the paper, the easier it will be to
work with and the stronger it will be when you are finished. In
general, paper that is hard to tear will be stronger than flimsier
paper. You can have good success with old manila envelopes,
newspaper and advertisements made out of colored cardstock. To
achieve color sheets, simply use colored paper; you can use printed
color sheets, but they do not provide nearly as much color as actual
colored paper. Separate your selection into piles and tear the paper
into small pieces as shown on the right. Soak the torn paper pieces
for as long as possible to make it easier on your blender; an hour
is fine but overnight is even better. You can potentially also use
food colouring.

Next fill your blender about halfway with warm water and add a few
pieces of your soggy paper until you have achieved the consistency
of lumpy applesauce. If voids of air become created in the mixture,
it's an indication that you need to add more water.

Now you have a sheet of paper but it is wet and on a frame. The
easiest way to proceed is to set the frame in the sun to dry. After
a couple of hours, you will be able to pull the paper easily from
the mesh. The disadvantage is that your frame/mesh will not be
available during that time. The alternative is to remove the wet
paper from the mesh so you can make more sheets without waiting. Cut
out a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the size of the paper
your are making. If you are using binder clips to hold the mesh to
the frame, you can remove the clips and mesh from the frame; at this
point you can set the mesh/paper out to dry or remove the paper from
the mesh alone (its easier to remove the paper from the mesh without
obstruction of the frame). If your mesh is permanently attached to
the frame (like ours) flip the frame over onto the cardboard. Tap
the mesh and wiggle the frame until the paper falls off the frame
onto the cardboard. This can be tricky, but after a few tries, it
becomes easy. Lay the sheet out to dry, preferably in the sun and
when all the water has evaporated: you just made paper! If there are
ridges, you can briefly iron the dry sheets with an ordinary
household iron set on low heat.

The size of your paper will be determined by the size of your frame.
A larger frame, of course, requires a larger tub and is slightly
more difficult to work with. It is recommended starting with a
standard size first before progressing to larger sheets.

The color of your paper is based on the color of your scraps.
Printed color scraps do not provide too much dye for the paper
sheets: you should rely on colored paper scraps to create colored
paper. You can also mix colors to create blends. Another idea is to
add the pulp to the basin with a temporary barrier right in the
middle. Add different color pulps to the two sides and gently remove
the barrier at the last moment before lifting the frame. With some
practise you can create multi-colored paper!

You can also include additional items to your paper. Small visible
pieces of paper add visual interest to the sheets. You can make some
very interesting paper by adding some regular newspaper scraps to
the blender and blending for just a few seconds until there were
pieces as small as a typed letter or two; those letters show up in
the final product and are very unique. You can also add, small
flower petals, flower or vegatable seeds, tiny leaves, dryer lint,
or threads; simply toss them into your basin just before gathering
the pulp with the frame

The other lower cost way: (geared for kids project)

Making recycled paper is messy. It is also a lot of fun. You will
have to use a food processor and an electric iron. It is best to do
this with some friends and family. That way you can spread the mess
and the fun around.
WHAT YOU NEED:
2 full newspaper pages torn into 2-inch squares - food processor - 2
tablespoons white glue (Use Elmers which I believe is more non-tox) -
2 or 3 cups water - sink with 4 inches water - old panty hose -
coat hangers - electric iron
OPTIONAL: insect screen - strainer - food coloring - dryer lint -
(I bring home shredded paper from work ) - vegetable or flower seeds
or petals

STEP #1
You're going to first make the frames that you'll use to make paper
with. Undo the coat hanger and use the wire to make a flat square
about 6 by 6 inches big. Stretch one leg of the panty hose over it.
Take your time; it could snag. If you put tape on the ends of the
wire, it will snag less. Make sure it is tight and flat.
Tie knots in the hose. Use the other leg for another piece of paper.
You will need one frame for every piece of paper you make. You might
want to make more than one or two. Or for more permanent ones, use
window screens you no longer have a use for.
STEP #2
Put a handful of the paper and some water into the food processor.
Close the food processor and turn it on high. Keep adding paper and
water until you have a big gray blob. You may have to add a little
more water to keep things moving smoothly. Keep the food processor
on until all the paper has disappeared. Then leave it on for 2 whole
minutes.
Put the glue in the sink water and add all of the paper pulp you
just made. Mix it really well. Use your hands. (I recommend using a
BIG dishtub or rubbermaid type tub so you dont accidently clog your
drain!!!!)
Mix up the sink water (Rubbermaind tub) again and then scoop the
frame to the bottom of the sink. Lift it real slow. Count to 20
slowly while you are lifting. Let the water drain out for about a
minute. Mix up the sink (tub) every time you make a new piece.
STEP #3
Try other things like the screen or a strainer. Try adding lots of
food coloring, or lint, or leaves, to the food processor.
Now you have to hang the frames on a clothesline or put them out in
the sun. Wait until they are completely dry with no dampness at all.
You Can then gently peel off the paper.
Now use the iron - set on the hottest setting - to steam out your
paper. You Can keep making paper until the pulp is all strained out
of the sink.
See how strong your paper is. Trim it with scissors. Write on it. It
is strong. Make Christmas cards or other cards or writing paper
Don't be fooled. When a bag or a box says that it is 100%
recyclable that means that you can recycle it. It does not mean that
it is made out of recycled paper.

I am not sold on the sink method as it will probably clog your
sink.. use a dishpan or rubbermaid tub

tenzicut - who brought shredded paper from work home for this



Making Vermicompost 

Vermicompost can be made from both cowdung and buffalo dung.  
The pit should be lined, to ensure that the worms do not 
escape to the earth nearby. Cardboard would be okay - brick 
and cement the ideal one. For trial you can just use a big 
barrel, with a small hole on the side at the bottom to drain 
off excess water. 

Fill the dung upto say three feet height, and then put a 
thin layer of fine soil on it. Put some live earthworms 
into the dung. The barrel should be in the shade. Water the 
pit/barrel/ structure once in a while, to ensure that the 
dung is slightly wet. (If it is bone dry, nothing can happen!). 

Cover the barrel with some leaves or straw. After a few weeks 
you will find the worms multiplying. Also the dung will 
slowly turn into a fine mixture. Continue to water the 
dung and keep it covered. If the atmospheric temperature, 
solar radiation, wind, and humidity is okay, and you have 
kept the dung slightly wet, and covered, and not allowed the 
earthworms to escape, in a few months the dung would become 
a fine mixture. 

This is vermicompost. Take it out, sieve it and pack it for sale or use.

From pankaj jain Tue Jan 13 08:08:50 2004
j_pankaj4@rediffmail.com 
**********
You can also use an old silage pit if there's one on your farm/homestead.

And can mix in most any organic material you can get free for the taking. Saw 
dust, wood chips, bagged leaves, resturant or cafe trash, shredded paper, 
cardboard, dryer lint, rotting hay: and many more things.

Jon
Micropropagation in Your Kitchen

Propagation is a joy. Most people propagate from stem cuttings. Some of 
us have dared to do grafting and then proceeded to try budding. Now it 
is possible to do tissue culture in your own kitchen. The ability to 
propagate your favorite plant and nourish it to maturity is really a 
thrill. It is like seeing your child get very intrigued with a bug. 
Plant tissue culture is a method to mass propagate plants in a short 
period and really a wonder. It just makes me gitty to see a large set of 
seedlings take root and to know that I did it.

Tissue culture has been around a long time, but the routine use has been 
restricted to professionals with expensive equipment and impressive 
laboratories. Now it is possible to propagate using tissue culture at 
home. I tissue culture in my kitchen with items such as a microwave, 
measuring spoons, quart jars, bleach, baking soda, vinegar, table sugar, 
baby food jars, and liquid fertilizer and so can you.

Ok, now hold on to your hat, I am going to talk about some things that 
seem complicated but are not. Micropropagation, also called *plant 
tissue culture, in vitro culture, meristem culture, and in the case 
of orchid seeds, flasking, involves the mass production of plants, 
from small parts (such as shoot tips, axillary buds, nodes, rhizomes, 
seeds) in sterile controlled environments. Are you still with me?

The advantage of this technique is that a small piece of plant can 
produce hundreds of new plants that can be identical to the "mother" 
plant. When you do stem cuttings, you are restricted to the number of 
plants that you can create by the amount of material available.

The major steps are as follows:

1. Establishing an explant in a sterile culture environment free of 
contamination from bacteria and fungi
2. Inducing a proliferation of multiple shoots using growth hormones
3. Transferring these shoots to fresh media to induce further growth
4. Rooting in vitro or in soil
5. Acclimating the plantlets to the outside environment.

Now you want to know what is an explant. An explant is the tissue that 
you are going to use that will develop multiple shoots. Think of a bud 
as an explant or part of the leaf in an African violet.

Explants are usually rinsed in dilute commercial bleach with a few drops 
of detergent to get rid of contaminants. The strength of the 
disinfecting solution and the duration of soaking of the explant in the 
disinfectant will vary from species to species. Other disinfectants, 
such as calcium hypochlorite, alcohol, PPM (a biocide), or even 
antibiotics, can be used in the procedure. The disinfection process can 
easily take place in your kitchen.

Once the explant has been disinfected, it needs to be handled 
aseptically. This means that you cannot contaminate it. So what do you 
do? You need to use forceps and knives sterilized by dipping them in 
alcohol, a work area free from microorganisms and air drafts, sterile 
water to rinse off the bleach from the explant, and sterile growth medium.

Sounds similar to Dr. Frankenstein in his lab. Not to worry, this is not 
difficult. This can be accomplished by using a box as a clean area and 
spraying it down with dilute bleach or 70% alcohol. Forceps, which can 
be purchased in the fishing department at your local discount store, are 
soaked in alcohol (I use tall shot glasses for this). The alcohol can be 
the inexpensive isopropanol from the discount store. Sterile water and 
sterile media can be prepared in a microwave or a pressure cooker. The 
only exotic items needed are professional media and plant hormones 
that are easily purhased on the internet or possibly from your local 
botany teacher or college professor.

The growth medium contains the macro- and micro-nutrients (similar to a 
fertilizer but more complex), a carbon source (table sugar), plant 
hormones, a biocide to limit growth of microorganisms, and a support 
such as agar, cotton balls, gelatin, and others.

The plant hormone, BAP (benzylaminopurine) is used in the media to 
induce shoot formation (This is not DAP that is a caulk found at Home 
Depot). The media is as easy to make as Jell-O. Here is the recipe for 
simple African Violet Leaf Culture Medium:

African Violet Leaf Culture Medium:
The following is combined in a quart jar:
Distilled water (about 2 cups)
1 packet MS medium
2 tablespoons table sugar
1 ml BAP
1 ml PPM (biocide)
Distilled water

Mix until dissolved using a long handled teaspoon. Bring volume to 1 
quart by adding more water. Mix again. Using pH paper, vinegar, and 
baking soda, adjust the pH to about 5.5 to 6.0.

There are several sights on the internet to purchase BAP. If you have 
trouble finding it, I would be happy to sell you some. The media is then 
dispensed into baby food jars (using measuring spoons) and processed in 
a microwave or a pressure cooker.

Cultures are maintained in a bright room out of direct sunlight or set 
on shelves with cool-white fluorescent lights set to 16 hours of light 
in a 24-hour period. As cultures grow, they can be transferred to fresh, 
hormone-free media (see recipe below) for further growth and 
multiplication or to soil (if they have developed roots). This is where 
the hobby greenhouse owner has an advantage * space for all the plant 
babies.

Home Style Medium for Subculture:
In a quart jar filled with water, mix:
1 teaspoon hydroponic fertilizer (Peters NPK 20-20-20)
2 tablespoons sugar
a multi-vitamin pill
1 ml PPM

Mix well. The vitamin pill will not completely dissolve. It can be 
removed after a couple of minutes. Test pH and adjust as you did in the 
first batch of medium. Measure 3 tablespoons medium into each baby food 
jar. Add two cotton balls, or 1/2 teaspoon gelatin, or agar (as 
previously described). Cap with polypropylene caps, or metal baby food 
jar caps if using a pressure cooker. Sterilize as described earlier. A 
complete description of this can be found at: 
http://www.kitchenculturekit.com/sivbposter.htm

Ok, I know it is not difficult to propagate an African Violet. You can 
take a leave and stick it in the soil medium and the leaf will develop 
roots, but you need to crawl before you walk. Try it - you will be 
amazed. Rather than getting a few plants from that one leaf, you will 
get 10 to 100 times.

Theoretically, any plant can be mass-produced using tissue culture 
techniques. As plants reproduce in different cultures, the process for 
tissue culture is not known for all plants. Did you know that some 
plants require fire to break their dormancy?

Research continues on developing new protocols for other difficult 
plants. Some of the most popular plants that are being tissue cultured 
by hobbyists include orchids, banana, bamboo, roses, carnivorous plants, 
daylily, hosta, and blackberry.

There are many resources on the internet to help you get started with 
your tissue culture project (much of which is free). A good start is 
Carols site: www.kitchenculturekit.com Sources for plant tissue culture 
media, hormones, and other supplies can be found there.

In 1998, Carol started a  Home Tissue Culture Listserve that has grown 
to over 800 people from around the world. This list is probably the most 
valuable resource on the net. Unlike many professional lists, we list 
members are willing to share information, trade seed, cultures, etc. 
Membership is free and open to anyone. Information on joining can be 
found at the website.

Below is a shopping list of supplies that Carol gives her online 
students. It helps you to get organized and to save money. Feel free to 
contact Carol for specific information: carolstiff@kitchenculturekit.com

Carol Stiff is a former university professor and researcher. She is 
currently an adjunct professor at several community colleges in Texas, 
teaches online courses and live workshops in plant tissue culture in 
the home, and is President and CEO of Kitchen Culture Kits, Inc., an 
internet company that sells kits and supplies for home and classroom 
plant tissue culture.
From:   David Sarasua dsarasua@pacbell.net

--- In organichomesteadinggardening@yahoogroups.com, "foodscaping" 
<foodscaping@y...> wrote:
Can someone explain to me how jars are used to make mini-greenhouses?
Thank you, Leon
 
P.S. New to this group, new to organic gardening, and new to 
Permaculture.  Living in the high desert Southwest.
*************
Welcome home to OHG.

I don't think I've posted about using chipped and cracked canning jars as a 
mini-greenhouse as yet. If so it'd be in OHG files found at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organichomesteadinggardening/files/ 

It's something I've been using almost 50 years to better root cuttings, and give 
some plants a stronger start in life.

We all have our own method of getting cuttings to root: so, I'll skip that 
process and simply say that once your cutting is trimmed like you like it, and 
is treated with your rooting compound such as willow water or that white stuff 
sold commercially in a bottle that's almost all chemical: I poke a hole and 
waller it out using a big heavy duty screwdriver.

Into that hole I carefully insert my cutting, making sure you don't knock off 
the rooting compound if you use that white commercial stuff.
Depending on exactly where you live and garden (I know Leon gardens around New 
Mexico): so he'd want to select a spot out of the wind yet where the new cutting 
will get at least 8 hours of sunlight.  I mostly use an easterly spot with a 
southern exposure.

Over top of that cutting you invert a glass canning jar that fits the cutting: 
leaving air space all the way around the cutting, making sure it does NOT touch 
the glass anywhere. If it touches the glass the cutting inside the jar will 
freeze.

You want the jar imbeded in the soil at least up to the 2nd thread, and if you 
bury the jar completely over all the jars threads, that's okay too so long as 
the cutting does not touch the glass jar anywhere.

Once that is done, again, depending on exactly where YOU live--meaning folks 
other than Leon--you'll want to heap wheat straw mulch around the outside of 
that glass jar to better protect the rooting process as well as seducing worms 
into the soil around that new cutting.

There is no finer "fertilizer" than worm castings.  And under mulch, under that 
glass jar, the soil is warmer providing worms a place to munch compost all 
winter during daylight hours.

I've dug down into the soil a bit, like laying a water line to wee people and 
fairy homes. Into that furrow, add sand or saw dust or shredded leaves or 
shredded newspapers...whatever you can get free.
Water it well with willow water until the bedding is somewhat moist but not 
saturated.  Into this long trench you can insert cuttings. One after another, 
then cover with pieces of salvaged glass found in dumpsters where folks do 
windshield replacements, store windows, or desktop replacement: most will let 
you raid their dumpsters to avoid having the glass hauled off to a hazmat 
disposal.

If you live in a big city, twould be best to know someone that owns or works for 
such a place, or find someone who you know that has an inside contact as 
businesses hesitate to allow folks they don't know to dive into their dumpster 
due to insurance reasons.

Out in the country it isn't that much of a problem.

You can also grow certain vegetables this same way and extend your salad season 
far into winter if you don't have thick snow covers that will bury that glass 
top.

Hope this helps you root your own cuttings, and get more plants cheaper than 
having to purchase them at a nursery.

Jon
Here's something that I copied quite a while ago from a Rodale
publication - about Miracle grow.
Carol M

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Miracle-Gro is a synthetic fertilizer that contains ammonium phosphate, 
ammonia sulfate, and several other chemicals that can be toxic to your 
soil and plants.

It is prohibited from use in certified-organic farming. Here's what 
soil expert Robert Parnes, Ph.D., says in his book Fertile 
Soil: "[Ammonium fertilizer] acidifies the soil, and thus it is 
probably more harmful to soil organisms than any other nitrogen 
fertilizer . . . . The application has to be timed carefully and 
placed properly to avoid burning the leaves and roots . . . . In 
addition, ammonium tends to inhibit the release of . . . 
potassium . . . Ammonium fertilizers are deliberately manufactured to 
be spread at high application rates in order to obtain maximum yields 
with no regard to adverse effects on the soil. Probably nowhere is 
the conflict between the mass production of food to feed the world 
and the preservation of the soil more obvious
than in the confrontation over the use of either ammonium fertilizers 
or liquid ammonia."

And there's more: long-term studies at the University of Wisconsin 
have shown that acidic chemical fertilizers are causing serious, 
permanent damage to our soils. Usually these fertilizers are also 
highly soluble, so they leach away and pollute our water systems, 
too. Soil fertility authority Garn Wallace, Ph.D., of Wallace 
Laboratories in El Segundo, California, points out that Miracle-Gro 
contains muriate of potash, which contains excess chlorine that will 
burn plants and inhibit the uptake of nitrogen. Dr. Wallace also 
warns that products such as Miracle-Gro often contain unsafe levels 
of zinc and copper that will be toxic to soil life.

And if all that's not enough to convince you to avoid this stuff,
consider this: you have to mix Miracle-Gro with water and apply it 
every "7 to 14 days." If you opt to fertilize organically, on the 
other hand, all you have to do is mix a 1/2-inch layer of grass 
clippings into your beds before each crop. As the grass decomposes, 
it will improve your soil's texture and stimulate microbial life and 
help prevent disease, all the while releasing plenty of nutrients to feed your 
plants. 

(For full details on organic fertilizers, see "How to 
Fertilize Your Garden," Organic Gardening, July/August 2000.)

Soil being everything, soil must contain Life in the form of 
microscopic bacteria and other weird looking life forms. Use of 
shortcuts is never recommended and this stuff, despite millions of 
dollars worth of marketing, can be nasty for sustainable organic gardening.

<from Rodale>

Make successive plantings of beets, beans, and carrots to be able to harvest 
into fall. Direct seed cool-season crops, such as broccoli, cabbage, and 
Brussels sprouts, into the garden. 
  Continue to monitor your squash vines for squash vine borers. The moths lay 
their eggs on the stems, then the emerging larvae bore into the vines, causing 
the squash vine to wilt and die. Contact your local Extension agent for control 
recommendations. 
  To obtain maximum pleasure and value from your vegetable garden, continue 
planting during the growing season. This provides a harvest until cold weather 
kills the plants. 
  Uncaged tomatoes can be damaged by sunscald. To prevent this, lean an old 
window screen over the plants to protect them from the sun. Be sure to stake 
your tomatoes well.
  Before you spray an insecticide on your vegetables, check the label. Each 
insecticide has a time you must wait before you can harvest. 
  To prevent okra from becoming slimy while cooking, leave the stem on the pod. 
The stem is edible, or you can remove it before serving. 
  Dry weather causes Swiss chard to bolt or go to seed. Water your plants to 
extend the season. 
  Cucumbers develop a bitter taste if the soil is not kept consistently moist. 
Harvest them for pickling whole when 2 to 4 inches; for table use, when longer 
than 5 inches. Remove any overripe cucumbers to encourage continuous production. 
  For bigger and better Brussels sprouts, pinch out the top of the plant when 
sprouts at the bottom are fully grown. The smaller, upper sprouts will grow 
larger than they would otherwise. 
  Okra, one of the most showy blooms in the vegetable garden, bears flowers that 
last only one day. If the flower has been pollinated, a miniature okra pod can 
be seen beneath the wilted flower. 
  Leave the casaba melon on the vine until the blossom end softens and rind 
turns yellow. Crenshaw melon is ripe when the dark-green skin develops yellow 
streaks. Pick honeydew when the blossom end softens and white skin turns cream 
color. 
  Most of your spring crops are out of the garden, and weeds are beginning to 
encroach on what once was a productive space. Plant another crop in those empty 
spaces to be harvested at the end of the growing season. Try beans, kale, 
turnips, mustard, broccoli, cabbage, spinach, or even corn varieties that mature 
in a short season. Remember to restore fertility to the soil before planting 
your fall crops by working in a light layer of compost or aged manure or a small 
application of a complete chemical fertilizer. 
  Shredded Chinese cabbage is a good, hot-weather substitute for lettuce in 
salads and sandwiches. A second crop may be started now for fall harvesting. 
  Although tomatoes are self-pollinating, they need movement to transfer pollen. 
If it is hot and calm for several days, gently shake plants for assured pollen 
transfer and fruit set. Hot temperatures can also interfere with blossom set. 
  Over watered okra will produce more leaves than pods. 
  Water stress in sweet potatoes can result in cracked roots. A potassium 
deficiency causes long, slender roots. Too much nitrogen reduces yield and 
quality. 
  Drought and hot, dry winds can cause pepper and tomato blossoms to drop off. 
Try misting plants twice a day to cool them and help the blossoms set fruit. 
  Do you have too many cucumbers, zucchini, or tomatoes?  Think pickles, 
relishes, and tomato sauces. 
  Cucumbers have a very short "vine-storage time." Under warm, humid conditions, 
the fruits on the vine may remain in prime condition less than one day. So pick 
early and often. 
  For the best flavor, pick ripe tomatoes as needed; flavor peaks within three 
minutes of picking. If you must wait to use garden-fresh tomatoes, don't 
refrigerate them. Fruit texture and some aroma compounds deteriorate quickly in 
the cold. 
  You can prolong the storage life of fresh okra by dipping it in 500 ppm of 
ascorbic acid for five minutes. This concentration is approximately the same as 
dissolving 500 mg of vitamin C in a quart of water. Then air dry and pack in 
plastic bags for storage of up to one month in your refrigerator. 
  To get more vitamins out of your vegetables, keep the outer leaves on your 
cabbage heads. They are high in vitamin C. Grow yellow corn varieties; they are 
higher in vitamin A than those with white kernels. Wash, but don't peel, 
cucumbers -- most of the vitamin A is in the skin. Harvest some green leaves 
with broccoli heads and stalks; the leaves have more vitamin A than the head and 
are richer in vitamin C, too. 
  Most fertilizer recommendations are for 100 square feet, so keep your garden's 
square footage a simple fraction of that. For example, a 4 x 12 1/2 foot garden 
is exactly 50 square feet and would require exactly one half the fertilizer 
required by a garden of 100 square feet. 
  Intensive gardeners know that closely spaced plants may yield less per plant, 
but the yield per square foot is increased because so many more plants are 
grown. The same idea can be used in container gardening. USDA research has shown 
that tomatoes grown in 3 1/2-inch pots yielded smaller and fewer fruits than 
those grown in 11-inch pots, but the total yield per square foot was almost 
twice as high because three small pots could be grown in the space of one large 
pot. 
  Try a slippery plastic fence for keeping raccoons out of vegetables, 
especially sweet corn. Construct one by stapling plastic sheeting (6 mil 
thickness) to stakes spaced every 10 feet so that the stakes are on the inside 
of the plastic, toward the corn. The plastic should be 30 to 36 inches wide, and 
the lowermost 3 to 6 inches should rest on the ground. If you already have a 
fence around your garden, try using spring-type clothespins to clip the plastic 
to it. Put the fence up shortly before the corn is ripe to give the animals less 
time to figure it out. Raccoons trying to climb the slippery plastic soon give 
up. 
  A garden needs 1 inch of rain or water each week. Early morning is the best 
time to water. Evening watering is less desirable because leaves that remain wet 
through the night are more susceptible to fungal diseases. Mulch plants to 
reduce water loss and improve yields. 
  Keep peas, beans, and berries cool while you pick them by spreading a damp 
cloth over your harvest basket. 
  For a fall harvest of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts, 
set transplants in late July. For a fall harvest of lettuce, radish, carrots, 
beets, turnips, kale, and spinach, sow seeds in late July to early August. 
  Fall is the best time to grow Brussels sprouts since their flavor is enhanced 
by a mild frost. Sow seeds directly in the garden early in the month, or set out 
transplants. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders so make monthly applications of 
5-10-10 fertilizers from the time the plants are 4 inches tall. Apply at a rate 
of 1/2 cup per square yard. 
  In summer, dry soil may make working the soil difficult and inhibit seed 
germination. Plant your fall vegetables when the soil is moist after a rain, or 
water the area thoroughly the day before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a 
shallow trench to conserve moisture. Cover the seeds about twice as deeply as 
you do in the spring. Early maturing varieties are best for late plantings. 
  One of the most important advantages of the home garden is the opportunity to 
have high-quality vegetables. Harvest your vegetables at the peak of maturity. 
Don't allow them to become too old before you pick them. Harvest summer squash 
when it's about 6 inches long. Use sweet corn as soon as it is picked. If it is 
held under warm conditions, the sugar changes to starch, and the corn is much 
poorer in quality. 
  Stop vine crops from taking over your garden or lawn by pinching off the fuzzy 
growing tips. This also directs the plant's energy into ripening fruit rather 
than producing more vines. 
  Implement all the best cultural practices to reduce pest problems, but be 
prepared to spray as needed to control insects and diseases. Some pest control 
usually is necessary to insure the production of healthful, high-quality 
vegetables. 
  Swiss chard can out produce the gardener. If it becomes over mature, cut it 
back to about 4 inches. After cutting, it will send out tender, new leaves. 
  Plant Chinese cabbage in July about 90 days before the average date of the 
first fall frost in your locality. This will allow crisp, firm heads to form in 
the cool days of early autumn. 
  Side dress crops like corn and cabbage with 2 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizers per 
50 feet of row about a month after growth starts. Scatter the fertilizer between 
the rows and scratch it into the soil with a rake. If your garden is on an 
infertile sandy soil, side-dress all of your vegetables to promote vigorous 
growth. 
  If your potatoes are visible along the soil surface, the portion exposed to 
light will turn green. Green-skinned potatoes will taste bitter and can cause 
sickness, so protect tubers from light by covering them with soil or mulch. 
  Withhold water on storage potatoes when they begin to die down. Water and 
fertilizer late in the season may disturb dormancy necessary for good storage. 
They can cause re-growth or cause potatoes to crack prior to harvest. 
  When muskmelons are 1/3 to 1/2 their mature size, decrease watering. Over 
watering reduces sweetness and may cause the fruits to crack open. From half-
size to maturity, 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or overhead irrigation 
is plenty. Likewise, trickle irrigation should be reduced. 
  Dried onion flower heads make marvelous additions to winter flower 
arrangements. For this reason, you may want to allow some buds that appear in 
your onion patch to develop instead of pinching them out as is useful to ensure 
large bulbs. 
  Continue to make successive plantings of crops like beans, beets, cabbage, and 
sweet corn to provide a continuous harvest until fall. A small garden will 
produce a large quantity of vegetables if replanting is done throughout the 
summer. 
  Pumpkin and squash blossoms are both beautiful and edible. To prepare squash 
or pumpkin blossoms, pick them after they open. Remove insects and dirt by 
washing and draining. Dip the blossoms in batter and fry until golden. 
  Ornamental kales and cabbage are among the showiest of all winter plants, and 
as the weather cools, the color intensifies. Transplants of these beautiful 
winter ornamentals are available at garden centers and nurseries now. 
  Summer squash with a bitter taste should not be eaten as it may contain a 
natural toxin, curcurbitacin E, that can cause food poisoning symptoms, such as 
stomach cramps. Often these fruits are a result of self-seeded plants. Avoid 
this problem by not saving self-seeded squash plants. 
  Turning cabbage a quarter to a half turn if they start to crack will reduce 
the water uptake that causes splitting. Or use a shovel to cut through the roots 
on one side of the plant. If that doesn't work, better harvest them. 
  Daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F prevent snap bean flowers from 
developing. 
  Begin to sow cover crops between rows and in vacated beds now. Sow clover, 
rye, and vetch. These will return humus and nitrates to the soil when dug under 
laterMom's Homemade Whitewash

Mom made it from nothing more than a thin liquid plaster 
made from slaked lime and water, and a couple of T of canning salt
to make it "wear" well. If she wanted a grayish color
she added soot or wood ashes.   You can thin by adding more water, but
don't try to thicken it by adding more lime. It needs to soak awhile
for the lime and water mixture to turn into "calcium", and
if you do add more lime, you need to allow extra time for
the transition to take place.

There are "water-based" coloring one can use if you 
desire to make your white wash...yellow wash for instance.
Yellow is known to attract beneficial insects. Green seems
to help green veggies produce better, and the color red seems 
to help red veggies preform better tho studies are still
in progress on this topic.

Sometimes Mom used a couple of egg whites mixed in the whitewash
as a "binder" if she wanted a more permanant paint to last longer
than one season. She said that lime and water, salt and egg whites 
would make the same "paint" that Hick Finn painted the fence with.

She has been known to use 1 gallon of milk, about 6 pounds of slaked lime,
1/2 cup of linseed oil, and half a cupped hand of canning salt, when 
she was painting something she wanted the paint to last longer on.  

She used colored chalk for pigments other than just white, and said that 
if I wanted to paint something a color other than white, to put one or two coats 
of just "white" on first, then the color as the last coat.

Jon

FRUIT or VEGETABLE STORAGE GUIDE APPROXIMATE STORABLE TIME
Beans: String, Green Snap, Wax, Lima Spread on shelves or benches 2-
4 weeks

Beets: All types Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-12 months

Broccoli Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 2-3 months

Brussels Sprouts Store two layers deep on shelves or benches 3-6
months

Cabbage: Green, Red, Chinese Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 6-9
months

Carrots: All types Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-12 months

Cauliflower Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 3-4 months

Cucumbers: All types Store two layers deep on shelves or benches 1-2
months

Corn: All types Store in husks one layer deep on shelves or benches
1-2 weeks

Celery Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 1-2 weeks

Eggplant Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 1-2 weeks

Kohlrabi Tie tops together in manageable bunches and hang 9-12
months

Leek Tie tops together in manageable bunches and hang 9-12 months

Okra Store two layers deep on shelves or benches 2-4 weeks

Onions: All types Tie tops together in manageable bunches and hang 9-
12 months

Parsnips Store in bins, baskets or boxes 9-12 months

Potatoes: All types Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-12 months

Peas: All types Spread unshelled on shelves or benches 2-4 weeks

Peppers: Green, Bell, Red Cherry, Banana, Tabasco Store one layer
deep on shelves or benches 1-2 weeks

Salsify Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-12 months

Sweet potatoes and Yams Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-12 months

Squash-Summer: Straight neck, Crook neck, Cymling, Patty Pan,
Zucchini; Cocozelle, Chayote Store one layer deep on shelves or
benches 2-4 weeks

Squash-Winter: Hubbard, Acorn, Butternut, Banana, Buttercup, Turban
Store in bins, boxes or baskets 6-9 months

Tomatoes (ripe): All types Store one layer deep on shelves or
benches 1-2 weeks

Tomatoes (green): All types Store two layers deep on shelves or
benches 1-3 months

Turnips: Rutabaga (yellow), White Store in bins, boxes, or baskets 9-
12 months

Apples: All types Store in bins or boxes 9-12 months

Figs: All types Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 3-4 weeks

Cranberries Store three layers deep on shelves or benches 1-2
months

Melons (thin rind): Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Honeyball, Persian
Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 2-4 weeks

Melons (thick rind): Casaba, Christmas Water, Spanish Store one
layer deep on shelves or benches
1-3 months

Pears: All types Store one layer deep on shelves or benches 3-4
weeks

Quince Store two layers deep on shelves or benches 3-6 months


tenzicut


From:  "Gary and Karen <birder71@yahoo.com>" <birder71@yahoo.com > 
Date:  Fri Feb 28, 2003  10:09 am
Subject:  My Wild Bird Story

I know Jon encourages each of us to feed the wild birds and educates 
us on their contribution to our gardens, our peace of mind, and 
entertainment.

When we searched for our property, I wanted to create a haven for 
birds. Our property already was a perfect place for birds. It is in 
the middle of forrested land with a pond, trout creeks, and the 
Kickapoo, Bad Axe, and Mississippi Rivers all close by. 

We have a large variety of native trees that provide all they need.

We have built brush piles and created a feeding area with native 
shrubs and trees. We have put in watering areas and native 
wildflowers. We have built houses and nesting areas. I have learned 
so much about the habits of our feathered friends. 

We have entertainment everytime we sit at our kitchen table. We have 
benches and a picnic table set up around the habitat so we can observe them. 
I have also participated in the annual bird count for the past 3 
years. It's fun and educational. 

It's an important activity with the diseases threatening our bird populations. I 
observed for 15 minute intervals for the time frame. I would choose certain 
birds to observe so I was sure to not count them more than once. 

There were 105 wild turkeys out on the adjoining field for their noon time 
meal. We had 2 snowy owls sweep through in the early morn. The 4 
wood duck flew from their nest down to the pond. There were 36 gold 
finches, 2 purple finches, 5 blue jays, 6 tree sparrows, and 15 
cardinals etc. at the feeders. I take notes and when I am done 
counting I go to the site and record my total sightings. 

If you would like to participate you can register and learn about the 
project at < http://www.ebird.org > 

My latest venture is to teach, our Mt. Cur pup, Duke that he is not 
to eat and drink in the bird habitat.

Karen in WI

Well, surprise surprise - the wife is actually allowing me to construct 
a leanto greenhouse on the south side of the house to winter over my 
tropicals and whatnot. What a change. We cleaned out the last of the 
furniture from my old shop, including a 12' workbench I had built, and 
she's letting me put the workbench in front of the house and building a 
greenhouse over it. Now the pressure's on to make it look nice. I'm 
thinking of using bales of hay to make the west and east walls and a 
short wall on the south up to the height of the bench - covered with 
water-proof tarp - then building the greenhouse over that out of PVC 
pipe and poly. On the west side closest to the house's front door I'll 
frame in a door (and may extend the framing to enclose the hay bales on 
the west, south and east sides) and on the east side I'll frame in a 
window to facilitate air movement on warm days. Inside, I plan on taking 
some 3 liter or 2 liter cola bottles placed under the bench and filled 
with gravel and water and ganging them together in a recirculation 
system that brings in hot water from a little solar heater that pumps 
only when the sun is out. A radiant space heater will suppliment that on 
the coldest nights. The banana and cacao trees will sit on the ground, 
and the seedlings and other plants like my pineapples will sit up on the 
bench and I'll hang a lot of plants like my nepenthes, tillandsias and 
tropical jicama beans. That's the rough idea anyway. Winter is just a 
few months away. I hope to get some antique cast-iron tubs and create a 
bog setup that will reside outside the greenhouse in front of it and be 
filled with various sarracenia and dionaea and allowed to pretty much go 
wild. That will create a nice front for the greenhouse. Hopefully I can 
keep it nice and toasty in there this winter.
Cheers,
Mike
~~~
To make seed tapes:
Cut newspaper into one-inch strips. Make a paste from flour and water which 
is about the consistency of thick gravy. Using a yardstick and pen, mark the 
seed spacing on the tape. (This saves time thinning out plants later.) 
After placing seeds on the dots, completely cover each seed with a drop of 
paste. Allow to completely dry, then roll and store in plastic bags. At 
planting time, unroll seed tapes and lightly cover with soil. Water. The 
newspaper will rot and provide mulch for the growing seeds.

Subj: {OHG} What is NPK?  
Date: 6/23/2003 3:29:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time 

What is NPK?

How well soil supports plant life determines its fertility. Three 
basic nutrients are essential to plants: nitrogen, phosphorus and 
potassium. 

(N) NITROGEN:
Nitrogen is essential for plant growth.  Nitrogen  is a part of every 
living cell. The two forms of nitrogen which plants take up are in 
the ammonia (NH4) and nitrate (N03) ion forms. Most agronomic crops 
take up most of their Nitrogen in the nitrate ion form.  Plants will 
utilize N in the (NH4) ion form if present and available to the plant.

Nitrogen is the first major element responsible for the vegetative 
growth of plants above ground. With a good supply, plants grow 
sturdily and mature rapidly, with rich, dark green foliage.  Too much 
nitrogen can cause plants to become leggy. Too little will stunt 
growth. 

Key roles of NITROGEN (N):
Nitrogen is necessary for chlorophyll synthesis and as a part of the 
chlorophyll molecule is involved in photosynthesis.  
Nitrogen is also a component of amino acids.
Nitrogen is needed for growth of plants

Lack of nitrogen and chlorophyll means that plants cannot utilize 
sunlight as an energy source to carry on essential functions such as 
nutrient uptake.   Research has proven foliar or leaf applications of 
Nitrogen is one form of application that can supplement a plants 
nitrogen requirements during the growing cycle.

(P) PHOSPHORUS:
Phosphate is a very important plant nutrient (macro-nutrient) needed 
for the plant to complete its normal production cycle. The highest 
level of P in young plants is found in tissue at the growing stage. 
As plants mature most of the P moves into the flower and then to the 
seed or fruit.
     
The second major element in plant nutrition, phosphorus is essential 
for healthy growth, strong roots, fruit and flower development, and 
greater resistance to disease. 

Key roles of PHOSPHORUS:
needed for photosynthesis.
needed for plant respiration.
needed for energy storage and transfer.
needed for cell division.
needed for cell enlargement.
several other plant processes.

(K)POTASSIUM:
An important function of Potassium is its influence in water use 
efficiency.  It helps in the process of opening and closing of plant 
leaf pores, called the stomata.  Potassium is found in cell walls 
which surround the stomata.  Adequate amounts of Potassium can 
increase stress conditions on plants during drought conditions.  
Potassium is also responsible for supplying quality to crops.

Potassium (K) is a word derived from potash (chemical symbol K). In 
the past, this nutrient was applied to gardens in the form of wood 
ashes.

It helps plants to resist diseases, protects them from the cold and 
protects during dry weather by preventing excessive water loss. 
(Wheat straw rots down into organic K).

Key roles of POTASSIUM(K):
Potassium is essential for protein synthesis.
Potassium is important in the breakdown of carbohydrates. (A process 
which provides energy for plants).
Potassium helps to control ionic balance.
Potassium is important in the translocation of heavy metals.  IE Iron 
(Fe)
Potassium helps plants to overcome the effects of diseases.
Potassium is essential in the fruit formation stage.
Potassium helps improve shelf life.
Potassium is involved in the activation of more than 60 enzymes which 
regulate the rates of major plant growth reactions.

CATIONIC:
In this stage of the plants life from flowering to harvest, the plant 
is in the production mode and no longer actively growing.  Higher 
PHOSPHORUS & POTASH is needed in this stage.

The availability of nutrients to your plants can heavily depend on 
acidity or alkalinity of the soil. This is measured in terms of pH. 
The scale ranges from 0.0 pH (most acidic) to pH 14 (most alkaline). 

A pH of 7 is neither alkaline or acidic and is referred to as pH 
neutral. Most plants prefer a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. pH can be easily 
measured by using a pH kit. Once pH has been checked soils can be 
adjusted using lime (to raise pH) or sulphur (to lower pH). It can be 
very difficult to lower pH of soils with pH over 8.3.

One indicator of healthy soil is the number of earthworms it 
supports. When a lot of organic matter is present, earthworms abound. 
Healthy soil is bursting with microorganisms breaking down organic 
matter into a usable form by plants. (Nitrates). Only where you find 
earthworms will you find rich, healthy soil with high amounts of 
organic matter and vice versa.  Earthworms simply cannot proliferate 
and flourish in areas where chemical fertilizers and pesticides are 
paramount.  Earthworms, actually, act as a barometer for soil health.

Natural organic fertilizers provide nutrients and encourage 
microorganisms to thrive. The organic materials turn into humus as 
microorganisms in the soil break them down. 

Synthetic fertilizers deplete organic matter in the soil, which leads 
to a more compacted soil. They also interrupt the ecology of the soil 
with the quick release of nutrients. Beneficial microorganisms are 
harmed, while harmful microorganisms are encouraged. 

Farmers are seeing that long-term use of NPK fertilizers creates 
compacted lifeless soil and builds up salts to toxic levels. 

Grow Organic.

Jon Wood-Founder of OHG, and an Organic Homestead Gardener.

References:
Personal knowledge of horticulture, agriculture, soil science, 
botany, and biology.
USDA
Advanced Master Gardeners Training
Owning and operating a working farm with truck crops.
And a few websites.

Old and natural Ways to Store Foods

SIMPLIFYING FOOD STORAGE 
 In 1910, approximately 80% of all Americans lived in rural areas, living, 
directly or indirectly, off the land. Today, that percentage is reversed, with 
more than 80% of all Americans living in towns and cities, yet still needing to 
eat. Even small towns are forsaking agricultural production in favor of tourism, 
light industry, and catering to retirees and others who are fleeing from 
metropolitan areas. 

The influx of new move-ins requires social, medical, educational, recreational, 
and other infrastructure expenditures, as well as the usual services of lawyers, 
plumbers, and electricians, etc. In a sense, most of us are living off each 
other, each providing services for the other in exchange for the money that we 
take to the grocery store. Cut off from the means of food production, as most 
Americans are, we are almost solely dependent on agribusiness, the trucking 
industry, multitudes of middlemen, and even Mexico to deliver our daily food to 
the table. 

When disruptive weather, regional catastrophes, strikes, or wars upset the 
delivery system, deprivation and increased costs are the results. In addition to 
being denied the foods we enjoy and have become accustomed to, we are also aware 
that severe shortages can challenge the very social and political fabric of 
overfed America with very uncivilized behavior. If you think those well-fed 
gangs and looters are bad now, wait until their refrigerators and cupboards are 
bare! 

The Hopi and Pueblo elders, as well as many others, have long taught their 
people to have a one or two-year supply of food stored, in case of adversity or 
emergency. Leaders of these prepared groups are today warning the earth's 
inhabitants of a fast approaching time of hardship, great change, and the need 
to be prepared, both spiritually and physically. Traditional Hopi, as well as 
others, do not accept government support, and maintain agricultural self-
sufficiency instead. Some Hopi believe they were told by the White Brother to 
never accept aid, or their land would be taken away from them. Their Anasazi 
ancestors inhabited a changeable land with many enemies, and food storage meant 
survival against incessant enemy attacks and the unpredictability of drought 
conditions in the Southwest. 

The Anasazi practiced advanced agricultural arts, and exhibited genius in cotton 
weaving, seed genetics, irrigation, and dry farming, as well as astronomy, 
pottery design, and a busy exchange of trade goods with their relatives far to 
the south in Mexico. Neighboring nomadic tribes, jealous of the fruits of 
settled village life, would wait until harvest to sweep down on productive 
fields, stealing crops, animals, women, and children. In a sense, the ancient 
ones had their backs against the wall. Visit their isolated cliff houses in the 
remote canyons of the southwest, and you will sense their fortress mentality. 
Their survival lessons have not been forgotten, but have been passed down 
through each succeeding generation to the present day Pueblo Peoples of Arizona 
and New Mexico. 

Subsistence farming is a devalued art at present, with agribusiness dominating 
food production, but that could change overnight. During the Great Depression, 
Americans felt the sting of poverty, and history has an interesting way of 
repeating itself. Most farmers, outside the dust bowl drought areas, were able 
to survive, and Native Peoples who depended on subsistence farming practices 
were least affected by the Depression. They had not put their faith in the white 
man's banking system, but in their own time-tested seed banks. The Hopi and 
other Pueblo Peoples have great storehouses of earth knowledge and survival 
skills to share with those who are willing to listen. 

While the "dominant" society has been technologically oppressive, burdening the 
earth with pesticides and destructive land use to the point of diminishing 
returns, the "People of Peace" have never forsaken their Mother Earth. Whether 
the oppressors ever acknowledge the intrinsic spiritual relationship between the 
earth and their own physical bodies or not, they will increasingly suffer from 
weakness and "dis-ease" if they continue to ignorantly pollute the earth with 
toxic wastes. Education is arousing many from their chemically-induced lethargy 
to the possibility of danger, but most are generally content to leave the 
problem in the hands of politicians and chemical companies. Since the bottom 
line continues to be profits, their faith in this unholy alliance is grossly 
misplaced. Dependence on hybrid seeds and other genetic techniques that deplete 
heritage seed diversity also puts this nation at great risk from pestilent 
varieties of plant-destroying viruses and sudden climatic changes. 

Y2K survival food experts promote the sale of vacuum-packed, dehydrated, or 
freeze-dried foods, and their catalogs are filled with space-age offerings 
guaranteed to last decades. Generally of good quality, they offer a necessary 
hedge against sudden disaster, or even temporary unemployment, but the initial 
cost is often overwhelming. If a buyer can get over the financial intimidation 
of acquiring a one or two-year supply, he will feel more secure, but if the 
buyer also has a large family, the high price might scare him away permanently. 
In the long run, however, some type of food storage program is a wise 
investment. Inflation will add to the cost of food with each passing year, so if 
nothing serious ever happened, the buyer could simply eat his investment and 
save money at the same time. 

Personally, I might try a few of these products in the future, but I believe 
that buying any food that one does not regularly eat is economically unwise. 
I've seen my neighbor's stored food wasted because it was not rotated and stored 
correctly. The viability of their wheat was reduced because it was stored in a 
warm room. A cool, dry underground storage room or cave is the best place to 
keep one's survival food. 

When shopping, buy several storable items. These could include vacuum-packed 
varieties or regular canned items, when they are on sale, and put each new item 
behind the old, always using the food in the front first. You might even want to 
consider caching some food in a secure place . . . but make sure it is rotated 
to the kitchen and replaced. 

I have always known that my adopted Pueblo and Hopi elders are the experts when 
it comes to food storage, heritage seed saving, and water conservation. It can't 
be emphasized strongly enough that a pure source of water, or a purification 
process, along with access to water, is the most important part of any survival 
preparation. Without a good source of water, we are dependent on whoever has 
access to it. Enough said. 
Corn, beans, rice and other grains, dried fruit, vegetables, and seeds for fresh 
sprouted grains and planting should constitute the bulk of food storage, with 
herbs, oils, sweeteners, spices, vitamin supplements, dried milk or eggs, and 
other regularly enjoyed items rounding out the program. 

My Indian friends dry halved apricots, peaches, and plums on their flat rooftops 
between window screening. Shave apples into long coils to dry, pick and dry 
chokecherries, rose hips and other berries and herbs for teas and sweet 
creations. In their fields they gather Purslane, a succulent, and Lamb's 
Quarters (wild spinach) for potherbs, using them fresh and drying the rest for 
winter use. Even baby tumbleweeds can be used in soups, but the ground or plants 
are never stripped bare. Something is always left for the birds, other animals, 
and to reseed the earth. 

The Pueblo People harvest squash, chilies, pumpkin, four distinct colors of corn 
with many variations, sunflower seeds, beans, onions, and other garden plants in 
their fields or small garden plots near the springs. Melons are a summer 
favorite during their hot summers. Meat, when eaten, is usually served sparingly 
in soups or small portions. The Pueblo Peoples use drying as their method of 
preserving food. Squashes are cut in half, the seeds are taken out, and then 
hung up to dry with long ristras or bunches of chile and garlic. The early 
Spanish, and later Anglo explorers were amazed to find chilies,  in one form or 
another, eaten with every meal. Pumpkin seeds are always a treat, and watermelon 
seeds are also used for food and oil. Fresh corn is baked in outside ovens or 
pits, and then a great corn feast is prayerfully shared. The remaining corn is 
hung to dry, later to be cooked whole or ground into flour. Hopi corn has been 
developed over the centuries to be drought resistant. It can be planted as deep 
as 12 inches and grow well with as little as four inches of rainfall. 

After lightly baking my corn, (enough to make the kernels pucker) I pull the 
husks back and hang them. Care must be used that the ears are separated and do 
not touch, or they can mold. I once saw a ceiling of beautiful corn ruined 
because a friend had hung the ears to close together. In Spanish, the shucked, 
hardened, dry kernels are called chicos. Beans and chicos are soaked together 
overnight and cooked with spicy seasonings, making a wonderful meatless chili, 
as well as a complete protein. 

Beans and corn are staple foods and eaten in some form almost everyday by the 
Indigenous Peoples of the southwest and Mexico. Other ancient foods which add 
color and variety to the traditional diet are amaranth grain, husk tomatoes 
(ground cherries), Yucca fruit, cactus pads and fruit, wild mustard, celery, 
garlic, fried squash blossoms, currents, strawberries, rabbit, turkey and deer. 

Family outings to the mountains and river canyons are organized to fish, collect 
berries, pinon nuts, mushrooms, and firewood. Depending on the land for survival 
always brings a family closer together as they work, laugh, and enjoy the beauty 
of nature. Gratitude is always expressed to the Great Creator and Mother Earth 
for the many blessings received. It has been said that the family that prays 
together, stays together. It follows that the family that not only prays, but 
also plants, gathers, and eats together is forging bonds that will last through 
eternity. 

That we, as a nation, are feeling shattered from within reflects internal 
fragmentation. Family members rarely eat together, and spend most of the day 
separated by school, work, and individual interests. When family members finally 
straggle in from their separate activities, they are often too tired to pay much 
attention to each other and go off to be by themselves, grabbing an appetite- 
destroying snack from the kitchen refrigerator or microwave and retreating to 
their rooms. The microwave may be handy for the elderly and singles, but it has 
done little to contribute to family togetherness. I have never owned one of 
these instant food-nuking contraptions and never will. 

When I was first married, I decided that the T.V. had no place in the kitchen or 
dining room. If family solidarity is important to you, banishing the T.V. from 
the eating area will help promote discussion and unity. Another tactic to 
encourage real meals together is to limit snacks to raw fruit and vegetables, in 
other words, keep them hungry until dinner is ready. If there ever was a time to 
practice being agreeable, it is at the dinner table. Food eaten in peace will be 
better digested than food eaten in haste, worry, or resentment. One rule for 
family eating that applies to people world-wide is: If you can't say something 
good and improve on the silence, do not say anything at all. After all, what is 
use of having a food storage program or a garden, if the food, once prepared, 
turns into poison in your system and cannot be shared in peace with the ones you 
love? I have never been in an Indian home where the family didn't sit down 
together at least two or three times a day to share their food and company. 

Joseph, the son of Jacob, who was sold into Egypt as a slave, saved that 
powerful and prosperous country from famine by interpreting Pharaoh's dream of 
seven fat and seven skinny cattle. The fat cattle represented seven years of 
bounty to be followed by seven skinny cattle, or seven years of famine. Pharaoh 
authorized him to initiate a massive grain and food storage program, which 
provided not only a great blessing to the people of Egypt, but also reunited 
Joseph with his family when they traveled down to Egypt to beg for food. 

Today, powerful leaders and business interests are perpetuating an illusion of 
the greatest magnitude. Their self-assured pride in belonging to the wealthiest 
nation on earth is creating a contagious attitude of false prosperity. A nation 
whose institutions fill garbage cans with half-eaten food, whose price support 
system includes food dumping, whose stores throw away food because it is not 
cosmetically perfect, and a government whose officials fail to maintain an 
adequate grain storage project is treading on dangerous ground. To misuse 
nature's bounty, while others in this world go without, is creating greater and 
greater polarity between the rich and the poor, at home and abroad. According to 
recent statistics, each American uses an average of 84 tons of the earth's 
resources annually. I believe that there are many who use much, much less than 
this, and many who use much, much more. Americans are the world's greatest 
wasters, using far more than those in other countries, and our ignorant 
attitudes will eventually reap a harvest of famine and unavailability. 

We cannot say how this will come about, but nature will regain her balance 
against those who abuse and upset the universal law of the harvest: What we sow, 
so shall we reap. Scenarios of global disaster have included comets colliding 
with the earth, a long nuclear winter, varations in the pole tilt, polar melt 
down, flooding, drought, plagues, and another approaching ice age. These, of 
course, are quite possible, but it is the regional disasters we need to prepare 
for now. If a firestorm incinerates your pristine mountain property, a flood 
washes away your home, or a tornado flattens your town, it may not be the end of 
the whole world . . . but it will seem like it, if you barely escape with your 
life and perhaps none of your possessions, pets, or livestock. 

Within 36 hours of any disaster, natural or manmade, national or regional, the 
shelves of our food stores will be bare. The availability of food is taken for 
granted, but it will not always be so.  Some of us have seen this temporary 
scarcity before, but within a short time, food stores are re-supplied, and all 
is normal. If, however, there are major upheavals or disruptions of the delivery 
system, it will take considerably longer. During these chaotic periods prices 
will skyrocket for the limited foods locally available . . . if there are any. 
If we ever find ourselves at war with oil producing countries, our military will 
probably require all available reserves to fuel the military machine. Food 
trucks would slow to a crawl, delivering only the minimum to large cities to 
keep them fed and socially stable. I wouldn't want to live in a city during such 
deprivation and uncertainty . . . would you? 

Joseph and the Egyptians were ready, the Hopi/Pueblo and other indigenous 
Peoples are ready, The Amish/Mennonites are ready, the Mormons are ready . . . 
ARE YOU?

(c)2001 -Laura Martin-B�hler 
 
This is a link to an urban garden in Oklahoma City
http://www.bettertimesinfo.org/ 

And this is to an amazing family urban homestead on about 1/5 acre in
downtown Pasadena, California
http://www.pathtofreedom.com 
Important things to remember when using rainbarrels are:

Do not use the collected rainwater for drinking, cooking, or bathing.

Set the rainbarrel on firm, level ground so that it won't tip over. 
It may be helpful to use sand or bricks to provide a level setting. 
If you set the rainbarrel on an elevated platform make sure that it 
is secure.

Do not connect the rainbarrel to your downspout if you have recently 
applied chemicals, such as moss killer, to your roof. 

Do not connect the rainbarrel to your home water supply.

Do not install a rainbarrel where it could be used to allow an 
intruder to gain access to your home.

If your downspouts were connected to the storm sewer system, make 
sure they are reconnected during the rainy season or whenever your 
rainbarrel is full.

Rinse the inside of the rainbarrel occasionally.

Try to cycle the water through the barrel as often as possible.

Contact your local water bureau or city water person and see if they 
have kits, kickbacks or something. I looked online and for areas it 
is cheaper to get a kit through them than going out and getting all 
the stuff for one..

Links:
http://dnr.metrokc.gov/wlr/PI/pdf/cistern-water-saving.pdf
http://dnr.metrokc.gov/wlr/PI/pdf/covington-rain-barrels.pdf
http://dnr.metrokc.gov/wlr/PI/pdf/Rainwater-Harvesting.pdf
http://www.rdrop.com/users/krishna/
http://www.yougrowgirl.com/garden/rain_barrel.php

tenzicut - who will have one once she has a house


Crop Unit Approximate net weight 
United States 

Barley Bushel 48#'s
Corn: Ear, husked Bushel 70#'s 
Shelled Bushel 56#'s 
Hay Square Bale 40 - 50#'2 
Oats Bushel 32#'s 
Potatoes Sack 100#'s 
Rye Bushel 56#'s 
Soybeans Bushel 60#'s 
Sweetpotatoes Bushel 55#'s 
Wheat Bushel 60#'s

Vegetables: 
Asparagus Crates, 12 bunches 30# or 1,050 each 
Beans, lima Bushel 32#'s
Beans, snap Bushel 30#'s
Beets, topped Bushel 50#'s
Broccoli Crates, 12-14 bunches 21#'s 
Cabbage Crate or sack 50#'s 
Carrots, topped Bushel 50 
Cauliflower Crate 50 400 
Celery Crate, 3-4 dozen 60 
Corn, sweet Crate, 50 ears 42 
Cucumbers Bushel 55 
Eggplant 1-1/9 bushel crate 33 
Escarole, endive 1-1/9 bushel crate 25 
Lettuce, head Crate, 24 heads 50 
Onion, dry Sack 50 
Peppers, bell Bushel 30 
Spinach Bushel 25 
Tomatoes Carton 25 

Fruit and berries: 
Apples Bushel or carton 42 
Blueberries Flat, 12 pints 11 
Cranberries Barrel 100 
Peaches 3/4 bushel or carton 38 
Strawberries Crate, 16 quarts 24 
SOURCE: Fruit and Vegetable Market News Service
USDA Source

Jon Wood


OP Pea Varieties

Sugar Snap" Snap pea, is open pollinated. 115 days. 6 ft tall 
plants. Resistant to Powdery Mildew and Pea Leaf Roll Virus.

"Mega" also is Open Pollinated. 90 days. Enation resistant. Grows 
warm or cool weather.

"Cascadia" Open Pollinated. 89 days. Enation resistant

"Sugar Star" Also Open Pollinated. 90 days. Resistant to Powdery 
Mildew and Pea Leaf Roll Virus.

tenzicut
Organic Gardening Techniques
The success or failure of the organic approach depends on how gardeners use and 
prepare organic matter. Organic matter improves soil tilth and prevents soil 
compaction and crusting. It increases the water holding ability of the soil and 
provides a more favorable soil environment for earthworms and beneficial 
microorganisms. It slows erosion, and in later stages of decay, organic matter 
releases nitrogen and other nutrients to growing crops. Carbon dioxide from 
decaying organic matter brings minerals of the soil into solution, making them 
available to growing plants. Many soils of the world have been ruined, mainly 
because they have been depleted of organic matter from prolonged cultivation 
without proper soil management. 

Sources of organic matter 
Animal manures. Where available, animal manures are excellent sources of organic 
matter and nutrients for the soil. It is best to apply manures after they have 
been composted and partially broken down. Fresh manure may be applied directly 
to the soil, but this should be done in fall and plowed down so that there is 
adequate time for sufficient breakdown and ammonia release before crops are 
planted. 

Those who do not have access to fresh or composted animal manures may find 
packaged dried manures for sale in nurseries and gardenstores. Because fresh, 
composted manure contains high amounts of water, an equal weight contains fewer 
nutrients than dried manure. Also, the fertility of manures from different 
sources varies widely. Table 1 gives some average figures. 

Table 1. Major constituents of animal manures (percent).


. Nitrogen Phosphorus  Potassium Calcium Magnesium Organic matter Water content 
. (N) (P2O5) (K2O) (Ca) (Mg)  . . 
Undried . . . . . . . 
Cattle  0.5 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.1 16.7 81.3 
Sheep 0.9 0.5 0.8 0.2 0.3 30.7 64.8 
Poultry 0.9 0.5 0.8 0.4 02 30.7 64.8 
Horse 0.5 0.3 0.6 0.3 0.12 7.0 98.8 
Swine 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.2 0.03 15.5 77.6 
Dried . . . . . . . 
Cattle 2.0 1.5 2.2 2.9 0.7 69.9 7.9 
Sheep  1.9 1.4 2.9 3.3 0.8 53.9 11.4 
Poultry 4.5 2.7 1.4 2.9 0.6 58.6 9.2 


To interpret the table, note that each 100 pounds of fresh cattle manure 
contains about one-half pound of available nitrogen, while 100 pounds of dried 
cattle manure contains about 2 pounds. Compare these amounts to a common 
commercial fertilizer such as 10-10-10, which contains 10 pounds of nitrogen per 
100 pounds. By observing the nutrient content of the major constituents of a 
fertilizer, a guide to the appropriate rate of application can be developed (see 
Table 2).


Table 2. Manure application rates.


To apply from 1/4 to 1/2 pound actual nitrogen, add one of the following: 

50 to 100 lbs. undried cattle manure 

20 to 50 lbs. undried poultry manure 

12 to 25 lbs. dried cattle manure 

5 to 10 lbs. dried poultry manure 

2.5 to 5 lbs. 10-10-10 fertilizer 


Fresh manure should not be used directly among plants or mixed into soil 
immediately before seeds or plants are placed in the garden. Fresh manure 
produces ammonia as it decomposes. Ammonia in direct contact with plant roots 
can cause damage and must be avoided. Another disadvantage of uncomposted manure 
is the introduction of weed seeds into the garden. 

Compost. Where manures are not readily available, you can make compost from lawn 
clippings, leaves and other plant materials. Compost is not only convenient, it 
is also inexpensive. Nutrient content of compost is relatively low, but its main 
benefit is the organic matter it adds to improve soil tilth. For detailed 
information on compost making, see MU publication G06956, Making and Using 
Compost. 

Green manure and fall cover crops. Where the garden area to be improved is 
large, or where other forms of organic matter are not readily available, green 
manuring is often the most economical means for soil improvement. Green manuring 
means growing a cover crop in your garden and plowing it under, thus adding 
organic matter to the soil. The greatest response from green manuring comes from 
not using the garden for one season, while growing a grass or other green manure 
crop and plowing it under in early fall. 

Another method is to seed a green manure crop in the fall and turn it under with 
a plow or large tiller in early spring. With this method, you can continue to 
use your garden normally, while gradually building up the soil. 

In general, you should seed a cover crop in September, not later than October 1. 
The cover crop protects the garden from erosion during the winter. Plow under 
the cover crop when it is 6 to 8 inches tall. If it grows taller, mow it down 
before plowing. 

Annual ryegrass is one of the most satisfactory plants for green manuring or 
covering. Seed it at 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of garden space. Seed 
rye or wheat at 3 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Thorough incorporation into 
the soil is important in early spring to prevent regrowth and weediness from 
these grasses. Wait at least two weeks before planting. 

Sawdust. In some areas where sawdust is readily available, it provides an 
excellent source of organic matter for the soil. You can use sawdust as compost, 
as mulch or for direct incorporation into the soil. A normal addition of sawdust 
would be about 3 to 4 bushels per 100 square feet of garden area. You should use 
only aged sawdust. Sawdust has no appreciable effect on soil acidity. 

The major problem with adding sawdust is the greater likelihood of developing 
nitrogen deficiency. As sawdust breaks down in the soil, it uses nitrogen, 
making it unavailable to plants. Therefore, along with sawdust you need to add 
materials that supply nitrogen to keep plants from starving. Apply the 
additional nitrogen needed at the time the sawdust is added and repeat as a side 
dressing during the growing season. For each bushel of dry sawdust, apply about 
3 pounds dried blood or 1 pound of potassium nitrate or 1/2 pound of ammonium 
nitrate. You can also use other materials at rates determined by the percentage 
of nitrogen contained. The garden may need later applications also if plant 
growth is poor due to lack of nitrogen. 

Sewage sludge. In some areas, sewage sludge may be available as a source of 
organic matter. Two types may be available: digested sludge and dried, activated 
sludge. 

Digested sludge is relatively low quality as a fertilizer in comparison to the 
other type. Apply and plow in digested sludge in the early fall. Do not apply 
digested sludge directly where you plan to grow a crop the same season, unless 
it has been composted. It generally contains from 1 to 3 percent nitrogen. 
Sewage sludge can be a highly variable product. Some sources may contain heavy 
metal ions and are best not used in the vegetable garden. 

Dried, activated sludge is made from sewage that has been separated from coarse 
solids, inoculated with microorganisms and aerated. It is filtered, dried in 
kilns, ground and screened. It is useful as a fertilizer on lawns and is heat 
treated, making it sanitary for garden use. This type of sludge may contain from 
5 to 6 percent nitrogen. Apply dried, activated sludge at about 5 to 7 pounds 
per 100 square feet; apply digested sludge at about 7 to 10 pounds per 100 
square feet. 

Never apply untreated or raw sewage to garden soil for any purpose. 

Organic vs. inorganic or man-made fertilizers 

One of the greatest arguments among gardeners comes in the area of 
fertilization. Some prefer totally natural materials; others are content with 
man-made materials; many use a combination of both. In some cases, the selection 
is based on economics. Often, the availability of organic materials is limited 
when large quantities are needed. 

For plant growth, both forms of fertilizer can be equally effective. Organisms 
in the soil break down organic materials to form inorganic, water-soluble 
materials identical to those formed by people. Plants are unable to determine a 
difference in the original source of the compounds they absorb. Extra growth 
often is a response to better root environments and action of soil organisms 
working on the organic matter. 

While some materials, such as manure, add organic matter as well as fertility, 
other organic fertilizers are not suppliers of organic matter. One of the major 
benefits of organic fertilizers is that they break down slowly and are less 
likely to release nutrients rapidly enough to burn plant roots if used in large 
amounts. 

Many inorganic fertilizers are more soluble and can burn plants if used 
improperly. Since many organic materials break down slowly, they supply 
nutrients to plants for a much longer period of time without frequent 
applications. Because they are not quickly soluble, they are not leached from 
the soil during heavy rains and, therefore, are more continuously effective. 
Some organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients. 

The availability of nutrients from organic fertilizers depends on their 
breakdown by soil organisms, which in turn depends on weather and soil 
conditions. Release of nutrients is much slower when the soil is cool or heavily 
saturated with water. Also, breakdown slows during drought unless soil is 
irrigated or heavily mulched to keep in soil moisture and keep temperature more 
constant. Where you need a quick fertilizer response, inorganic fertilizers tend 
to provide it. Many of the organics have a fertilization lag. Their nutrients 
are not available to plants until the organic matter has decomposed. 

Sources of organic fertilizers

Following are some organic fertilizers that supply nutrients but add little or 
no organic matter. 

Sources of nitrogen (N). Dried blood contains about 12 to 14 percent nitrogen, 
and therefore can be considered a nitrogen fertilizer, although it also contains 
about 2 percent phosphorus and 0.5 percent potassium. It may appear either red 
or black, depending on the process used to remove water during drying. Dried 
blood releases nitrogen relatively fast. General application is about 2 to 4 
pounds dried blood per 100 square feet of garden area. It leaves an acid 
reaction in the soil. Dried blood is sometimes used as a rabbit repellent. 

Hoof and horn meal contains 12 to 14 percent nitrogen as processed, dried hoofs 
and horns. Although once commonly used as a fertilizer, it is now nearly 
unavailable in most areas. 

Tankage is derived from the dried and ground by-products of animal slaughter. 
While often available as a livestock feed, this same material can be used as a 
fertilizer. It averages about 6 to 11 percent nitrogen and may contain about 10 
percent phosphorus. Garbage tankage, made from the dried, ground products of 
household waste, may also be used, although it is not readily available. 

Fish meal is the dried, ground, processed material derived from non-edible fish 
or fish scraps. As a fertilizer it may contain from 8 to 10 percent nitrogen, 4 
to 9 percent phosphorus and 2 to 3 percent potassium. As it breaks down, this 
material gradually becomes available to plants as a fertilizer. Fish fertilizers 
also benefit plants by the addition of many minor and micronutrients. Fish 
emulsion is a liquid form often used for house plants. 

Sources of phosphorus (P205). Bone products, one of the earliest sources of 
phosphorus for fertilizing plants, are available in three forms: 

bone meal (ground bone softened by steam under pressure) 
acidulated bone (ground bone treated with sulfuric acid) 
ground bone (bones cooked but not steamed). 
Bone meal is the form most often used as a plant food. The meal from unsteamed 
bones may contain 20 to 22 percent phosphorus, while that from steamed bones 
will contain from 23 to 30 percent P2O5. Rate of use for soils low in phosphorus 
is about 2 pounds per 100 square feet. Bone meal is commonly used as a source of 
phosphorus in livestock feeds and is generally available from livestock feed 
suppliers. 

Rock phosphate is made by grinding a natural rock containing one or more calcium 
phosphate minerals. It is used either directly after grinding or after 
concentration as a phosphorus fertilizer. Rock phosphate normally contains 
between 25 and 30 percent phosphorus. Rock phosphate is more effective in acid 
soils and relatively ineffective on alkaline soils due to its low solubility. It 
is most useful as an addition in composting manure and organic materials. Soils 
low in phosphorus may require ground rock phosphate at about 2 to 4 pounds per 
100 square feet of garden soil. When applying with manure or compost, use about 
2-1/2 pounds per 25 pounds of manure or compost. 

Sources of potassium (potash, K2O). Wood ashes may contain from 4 to 10 percent 
potassium. In general, they average about 5 percent potassium with as much as 23 
percent calcium. Because of this, they produce an alkaline reaction on the soil. 
Since they go quickly into solution, you should use them with care. Continued 
use may raise the pH of the soil, making it too alkaline unless adjustments are 
made. Use wood ashes at a rate of about 2-1/2 pounds per 100 square feet of 
garden area. Do not soak ashes in water before application or the potassium will 
be lost. Do not apply wood ashes if the soil pH is over 6.5. Apply ashes at 
least 3 weeks before planting seeds. Coal ashes are not beneficial to plant 
growth. 

Greensand is sometimes recommended as a source of potassium but is not readily 
available in many areas. It is a hydrated salt of iron and potassium silicate 
and contains about 6 percent potassium, which is very slowly available to 
plants. 

Seaweed can be the name for any plant that grows in the ocean, but the material 
used for fertilizer is usually made from brown or red algae. Giant kelp is a 
seaweed that was harvested for both fertilizer and explosives during World War 
I. Kelp contains 20 to 25 percent potassium chloride, but the seaweed that is 
normally available for use as a fertilizer contains from 4 to 13 percent 
potassium. Although seaweed was once commonly used as a fertilizer, availability 
is now relatively limited. 

Other organic fertilizer sources. A wide variety of other materials may be used 
as fertilizer. Some have a more balanced range of nutrients in them, although 
often none of the nutrients are in large amounts. 

Cottonseed meal is the residue after the oil is extracted from cooked cotton 
seeds. It averages 6 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus and 1 percent 
potassium, along with secondary and micronutrients. Nutrients from cottonseed 
meal become available to plants gradually. Cottonseed meal produces an acid 
reaction in the soil. 

Soybean meal, as well as cottonseed meal, is mainly used as an animal feed. 
However, non-feed quality meal is sometimes used as a fertilizer. Its nutrients 
average about 6 percent nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorus and 2 percent potassium. 
Its reaction in the soil is only slightly acid. 

In some localities, other plant materials are available that may serve as plant 
nutrients as well as add organic matter. Some of these include tobacco stems, 
castor pomace, cocoa shell meal, sunflower meal and mushroom compost.


Sources of inorganic fertilizers 
Those choosing fertilizers from organic sources generally do not use those that 
are inorganically made by man. However, since references and recommendations are 
often made in terms of inorganic fertilizers, following are a few of the most 
common along with their major nutrient content, so you can make comparisons. 

Sources of nitrogen (N). Ammonium nitrate is a common inorganic fertilizer that 
contains about 33.5 percent nitrogen. It absorbs moisture from the air when 
humidity is high, and therefore, must be stored in tight containers or bags. 

Ammonium sulfate, another common constituent of mixed fertilizers, contains 
about 20 percent nitrogen. 

Calcium nitrate, which forms when limestone reacts with nitric acid and is 
neutralized with ammonia, contains about 15 percent nitrogen. It has been used 
as a nitrogen source when additional calcium may be needed in the soil. 

Sodium nitrate, also called Chile saltpeter, is mined from natural deposits in 
Chile but may also be produced synthetically. It contains about 16 percent 
nitrogen and 26 percent sodium. 

Urea is an organic compound synthesized by combining carbon dioxide with ammonia 
under high temperature and pressure. It contains no less than 45 percent 
nitrogen (usually about 46 percent), which is rapidly available to plants. Urea 
is sometimes used for foliar fertilizer applications. Its rapid availability and 
high nitrogen concentration make careful use important. 

A related product, Urea-formaldehyde fertilizer (also called Ureaform) has 35 
percent or more nitrogen. A large portion of this nitrogen becomes available to 
plants gradually. It is much safer to use than urea, and fewer applications are 
necessary. It is a common nitrogen source used in lawn fertilizers. 

Sources of phosphorus (P2O5). Superphosphate forms when rock phosphate is 
treated with either sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid. The process of production 
will determine the amount of phosphorus contained in the finished product and 
may range from 20 to 50 percent. A common superphosphate analysis is 0-20-0, 
while treble superphosphate is 0-45-0. 

Sources of potassium (K2O). Potassium chloride is also known as muriate of 
potash. It is made by the action of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid on potassium-
containing materials. It contains about 60 percent potassium (potash). 

Potassium nitrate is commonly known as saltpeter or nitrate of potash. Natural 
deposits occur in some parts of the world and were once mined extensively. 
However, most saltpeter is now made synthetically. It contains a minimum of 12 
percent nitrogen and 44 percent potassium. A common analysis is 13-0-44. 

Potassium sulfate is also known as sulfate of potash. It can be made from a 
number of potassium-containing materials and contains about 48 percent 
potassium.


Adjusting soil acidity 
The acidity of a soil is measured in units called pH. The proper soil pH is 
important for the breakdown of organic matter and the release of nutrients in 
the soil for plant growth. A soil pH of 7.0 is neutral, neither acid or 
alkaline. A pH above 7 is called a sweet or alkaline soil, while a pH below 7 is 
known as a sour or acid soil. Most garden plants grow best in soil with a pH 
range from 6.0 to 6.8. Breakdown of organic matter, nutrient release by 
microorganisms and availability of most nutrients is greatest in this pH range. 

A soil test is the only way to accurately determine the pH of a soil, but plant 
growth may be an indication of pH problems. When you have apparently applied 
adequate fertilizer, but plant growth is poor, you might suspect improper pH. 
Ground limestone is normally used to make acid soils less acid, while sulfur is 
used to make alkaline soils more acid (see Table 3). 


Table 3. Sulfur or limestone applications to adjust soil pH to 6.5 in pounds per 
100 square feet.


pH change Material used Sandy loam Loam soil Clay soil 
from 7.5 to 6.5  sulfur* 1-1/2 2 2-1/2 
from 7.0 to 6.5 sulfur*  1/4 1/2 3/4 
from 6.0 to 6.5  limestone  3 4 6 
from 5.5 to 6.5  limestone  5 8 11 
from 5.0 to 6.5 limestone  7 11 15 
from 4.5 to 6.5  limestone 10 13 20 
from 4.0 to 6.5  limestone  12 16 23 


*Iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate may be used in place of sulfur but will 
require about 2-1/2 times more material to make an equivalent pH change. 

Some soils tend to be acid rather than alkaline, making the addition of ground 
limestone more common than the addition of sulfur. Since the average garden 
performs best in a pH range from 6.0 to 6.8, Table 3 suggests sulfur or 
limestone required to make a midway change close to 6.5. Remember that these 
amounts are approximations, and soil type and conditions may alter the results. 
Proceed with caution at all times. Ideally, do not apply more than 1 pound of 
sulfur or 5 pounds of limestone per 100 square feet in one application. If 
larger amounts are required, split applications between spring and fall to 
create a gradual increase or decrease. Work the materials thoroughly to a depth 
of 6 or 7 inches. 

If you use wood ashes to reduce acidity, use about two-thirds the amount 
recommended for limestone.


Disease control methods 
Plant diseases may seriously stunt or even kill plants. They may appear as leaf 
spots, wilts, stunts, rusts or a variety of other symptoms. Plant diseases may 
be caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, or may be a response to 
environmental conditions that produce disease-like symptoms. The key to good 
disease control is prevention. 

Some, but not all, diseases may require frequent spraying with traditional 
chemicals to provide adequate control. Use cultural procedures to prevent 
disease infection with or without spraying to help reduce the seriousness of 
some diseases. 

Genetic resistance. Whenever available, the use of resistant varieties is the 
best way to prevent disease problems. Response to disease attack may vary, as 
indicated by the terms immune, resistant and tolerant. Disease immunity 
indicates that a plant will not get a disease even though the disease is 
present. Disease resistance implies that although a plant may occasionally 
contact the disease, it is much less likely to get it, and if attacked, may not 
be seriously affected. Tolerance to a disease implies that the plant usually 
contacts the disease when present but is able to survive in spite of being 
infected. 

Resistant varieties are becoming more readily available in many crops. Look for 
disease resistance in variety descriptions. Disease resistance of vegetable 
varieties is indicated in MU publication G06201, Vegetable Planting Calendar. 

Crop rotation. Crop rotation is as old as agriculture. Continued cropping in one 
area allows for buildup of disease organisms. Rotating crops each year to help 
prevent buildup of organisms in one place can reduce some disease problems. 
Diseases such as clubroot and some vascular wilts may persist in the soil for 
five or more years without the presence of a susceptible plant. For these and 
similar problems, very long rotation times are necessary. 

Sanitation. Sanitation is important to the control of plant disease. Destruction 
of weeds or other plants that may serve as over wintering host plants, along 
with elimination of crop plants that have been diseased, is important. Careful 
selection of new plants, seeds or cuttings is important to avoid introduction of 
diseases into the garden or landscape. 

Protection. In some cases, careful selection of disease-free seed and 
propagating material helps disease control by avoiding introduction. Certified 
seed potatoes are a good example of a case where the use of disease-free seed 
pieces keeps the soil clean and protects against inoculating the field with soil 
diseases. 

Following are practices that can help control plant diseases: 


1. Use disease-resistant varieties whenever they are available, as well as 
varieties suited to the local growing conditions. 

2. Select garden locations with good soil drainage, adequate sunlight, and good 
soil. 

3. Improve the soil with organic matter and fertilizers to develop the best soil 
tilth for growing seeds and plants. 

4. Rotate the garden locations. If the garden space is too limited for garden 
rotation, rotate crops within the space available. 

5. Use disease-free transplants and seeds from reputable suppliers. Do not plant 
more than you can take care of properly. 

6. Eliminate weeds around the garden area that may serve to harbor diseases 
throughout the year. 

7. Control insect pests that serve as disease carriers. 

8. Pull up and destroy any plants showing diseases, as those caused by viruses, 
which can not be controlled. Pull off diseased leaves as soon as you notice them 
to help slow the spread of leaf spots and other fungus diseases. 

9. Spade under or remove and destroy crop residue as soon as harvest is 
completed if disease was a problem during the season. 

10. Do not overcrowd plants. Overcrowding prevents good air movement and 
exposure to adequate sunlight. High humidity and too much shade caused by these 
conditions can increase the development of some diseases.


Controlling insects

At one time, gardens had few insect problems. The current movement of people 
over long distances has helped move pests to areas where they were once unknown 
or uncommon. Many more problems that need control face the modern gardener. 

Many common insect pests can be controlled with modern chemicals. In avoiding 
their use, however, you must be willing to work a little harder and accept some 
insect damage in your garden. Following are a few techniques that can help 
control insect attack and spread. Some of these are the same as those used to 
control disease: 

Since you will not be able to avoid all insect damage, plant more of a crop for 
adequate harvest. 
Check crops often and hand pick any insects present before they become too 
numerous. 
Encourage natural insect predators when possible. 
Although not common, some plants have insect resistance. Select them when 
available. 
Do not plant crops in large blocks. Mixing different types of plants helps slow 
the spread of insects that are present. 
The concept of trap crops may also help. These are less desirable crops planted 
near the garden. The hope is that insects will be attracted to and consume these 
crops more than the desirable ones. 
Supplement mechanical controls with biological and natural pesticides. These 
include dormant oils, lime-sulfur, elemental sulfur, pyrethrins, rotenone and 
nicotine. Use these materials carefully, according to directions of the 
manufacturer. 
Fertilize, cultivate and water to promote vigorous growth. Healthy plants seem 
less attractive to insects, and those that are attacked are better able to 
survive and still produce a crop. 
Rotate the crop. Some insects may overwinter in the soil or other debris. Moving 
the crop may delay their attack in spring. 
Use transplants when possible. These develop more quickly than seeds in the 
garden. The quicker you can grow and harvest the crop, the less chance of insect 
pests seriously damaging the plants. 
Destroy any garden debris or nearby weeds that may serve as breeding or 
overwintering places for insects. 
Fall cultivate the garden. This buries deeply or exposes some insects and insect 
eggs to birds or to desiccation during winter freezing and thawing. 
Keep the garden free of weeds that may harbor pests. 
Biological control of insect pests. The biological control of insect pests 
refers to the use of disease organisms, predacious or parasitic insects, insect-
feeding birds, toads and other animals. 

When these are used, a certain amount of damage must also be expected, as these 
predators are not always present at the time the insects are numerous, and their 
increase in numbers usually follows an increase in the pests. Releasing pests 
(such as ladybugs) and predators has been successful in some areas. One of the 
most successful biological controls has been the use of a bacteria, Bacillus 
thuriengensis, for control of cabbage loopers and cabbage worms in cole crops. 

Remember that when any kind of insect predator is released in the garden, the 
pests must already be present to serve for food. If insects are not present, the 
predators will move elsewhere looking for food. 

Soap as an insecticide. Some people suggest that soap is effective as an 
insecticide. This recommendation dates back to the 1700s. Modern soaps vary 
widely, and their effectiveness as an insecticide also varies and is sometimes 
questionable. It seems that the most effective soap for an insecticide is the 
old-fashioned homemade soap prepared from waste lard, tallow, lye and water. If 
there is any benefit from these materials, remember that it comes from some of 
the more caustic soaps, not detergents.
http://www.maasnursery.com/organictechniques.htm 
Seed Saving : Peas

Peas are one of the easiest vegetables to save seed from.

Seperate varieties by 50 feet to ensure pure seed. Select the 
healthiest plants to save seed from. Allow pods to dry on the plant 
before harvesting and seperate seeds by hand. If birds are a problem, 
they can be harvested slightly green and brought indoors to finish 
drying. 

Store in a paper bag (label) and in a glass jar and keep in a cool, 
dark, dry place

tenzicut
Toxic Plants For Birds

Acokanthera -- Acokanthera spp. (all parts toxic, except ripe fruit)
Amaryllis -- Amaryllis spp.
Angel's Trumpet -- Datura spp., (leaves, seeds, flowers)
Apricot -- Prunus armeniaca (pits, leaves and bark)
Apple -- malus spp., (seeds, leaves, bark)
Avacado -- Persea americana (pit, leaves, unripe fruit, and stems)
Azalea -- Rhododendron canadensis

Balsam Pear, Bitter Melon -- Momordica charantia
Baneberry -- Actaea rubra, A. pachypoda
Belladonna -- Atropa belladonna
Bird of Paradise -- Poinciana and related spp. (seed pods and flowers)
Bittersweet -- Celastrus spp.
Black Locust -- Robinia pseudoacacia
Boxwood -- Buxus spp.
Bracken Fern -- Pteridium aquilinum
Buckthorn -- Karwinskia humboldtiana and related spp.
Burdock -- Arctium spp.
Buttercup -- Ranunculus spp.

Caladium -- Caladium spp.
Calla Lily -- Zantedeschia aethiopica
Catclaw Acacia -- Acacia greggii (twigs and leaves)
Caster Bean -- Ricinus communis
Cherry -- Prunus spp., (pits, leaves, and bark)
Chinaberry -- Melia azadarach
Clematis -- Clematis montana and related species
Coral Plant -- Jatropha mutifida
Crocus (autumn) -- Cholchicum autumnale
Cycad or Sago Cycas -- Cycas revoluta

Daffodil -- Narcissus tazetta
Daphne -- Daphne mezerum
Death Camas -- Zigadenus venenosus and other related species
Delphinium -- Delphinium spp.
Devil's Ivy -- Epipremnum aureum
Dieffenbachia (dumb cane) -- Dieffenbachia spp.

Eggplant -- Solanum melongena, (unripe/overipe fruit, leaves)
Elderberry -- Sambucus mexicana (roots, leaves, stems, bark)
Elephant's Ears or Taro -- colocasia spp.
Euonymus -- Euonymus spp. (filit, bark, leaves)
European Pennyroyal -- Mentha pulegium

Figs -- Ficus spp. (sap)
Four o'clock -- Mirabilis jalapa
Foxglove -- Digitalis purpurea

Heliotrope -- Heliotropium spp., (leaves)
Henbane -- Hyoscyamus niger
Holly -- Ilex aquifolium and related spp. (leaves, berries)
Horse Chestnut -- Aesculus hippocastanum and related spp.
Horse Nettle -- Solanum carolinense
Hyacinth -- Hyacinthus orientalis
Hydrangea -- Hydrangea spp.

Iris -- Iris spp.
Ivy (Boston, English, and some others) -- Hedera spp.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit -- Arisaema spp.
Jerusalem Cherry -- Solanum pseudocapsicum and related spp.
Jessamine, Yellow -- Gelsemium sempervirens (leaves, seeds, and 
flowers)
Jonquil -- Narcissus jonquilla
Juniper -- Juniperus spp.

Lantana -- Lantana camara
Larkspur -- Delphinium spp.
Laurel -- Kalmia spp.
Lily-of-the-Valley -- Convalleria maijalis
Lobelia -- Lobelia
Locoweed -- Astragalus spp. and Oxytropis spp.
Lupine -- Lupinus spp.

Marijuana -- Cannabis sativa
Milkweed -- Asclepias spp.
Mistletoe -- Phoradendron villosum
Mock Orange -- Philadelphus spp.
Moonseed -- Mensipermum canadense
Monkshood -- Aconitum spp.
Morning Glory -- Ipomea violacea (seeds)
Mushrooms -- Amanita spp. and many others

Narcissus -- Narcissus spp.

Oak -- Quercus spp.
Oleander -- Nerium oleander

Peach -- Prunus persica (leaves, pit, bark)
Pear -- Pyrus spp. (leaves, seeds, bark)
Peony -- Paeonia officinalis
Periwinkle -- Vinca minor, Vinca rosea
Peyote -- Lophophora williamsii
Philodendron -- Philodendron spp. and Monstera spp.
Pigweed -- Amaranthus spp.
Plum -- Prunus spp. (leaves, pit, bark)
Poison Hemlock -- Conium maculatum
Poison Ivy -- Toxicodendron radicans includes T. rydpergii
Poison Oak -- Toxicodendron quercifolium and T. diversilobum
Poison Sumac -- Rhux vernix
Poinsettia -- Euphorbia pulcherrima
Poppy -- Papaver somniferum and related spp.
Pokeweed -- Phytolacca americana
Potato -- Solanum tuberosum (sprouts, leaves, berries, green tubers)
Pothos -- eprimemnun aureum
Primrose -- Primula spp.
Privet -- Ligustrum vulgare

Ragwort -- Senecio jacobea and related spp.
Red Maple -- Acer rubrum
Rhododendron -- Rhododendron spp.
Rhubarb -- Rheum rhabarbarum (leaves)
Rosary Pea -- Abrus precatorius

Sage -- Salvia officinalis
Shamrock Plant -- Medicago lupulina, Trifolium repens, Oxalis 
acetosella
Skunk Cabbage -- Symplocarpus foetidus
Snowdrop -- Galanthus nivalis
Sorrel -- Rumex spp., Oxalis spp.
Spurges -- Euphorbia spp.
Star of Bethlehem -- Ornithogalum umbellatum
Sweet Pea -- Lathyrus odoratus

Tobacco -- Nicotiania spp.
Tomato -- Lycopersicon esculentum (stems and leaves)
Tulip -- Tulipa spp.

Virginia Creeper -- Panthenocissus quinquefolia
Vetches -- Vicia spp.

Water Hemlock -- Cicuta spp.
Waxberry -- Symphoricarposalbus
Wisteria -- Wisteria spp.

Yew -- Taxus spp.


Toxic Plants for Cats

Alfalfa 
Almond (Pits of) 
Aloe Vera 
Alocasia 
Amaryllis 
Apple (seeds) 
Apple Leaf Croton 
Apricot (Pits of) 
Arrowgrass 
Asparagus Fern 
Autumn Crocus 
Avacado (fuit and pit) 
Azalea 
Baby's Breath 
Baneberry 
Bayonet 
Beargrass 
Beech 
Belladonna 
Bird of Paradise 
Bittersweet 
Black-eyed Susan 
Black Locust 
Bleeding Heart 
Bloodroot 
Bluebonnet 
Box 
Boxwood 
Branching Ivy 
Buckeyes 
Buddist Pine 
Burning Bush 
Buttercup 
Cactus, Candelabra 
Caladium 
Calla Lily 
Castor Bean 
Ceriman 
Charming Dieffenbachia 
Cherry (pits, seeds & wilting leaves) 
Cherry, most wild varieties 
Cherry, ground 
Cherry, Laurel 
Chinaberry 
Chinese Evergreen 
Christmas Rose 
Chrysanthemum 
Cineria 
Clematis 
Cordatum 
Coriaria 
Cornflower 
Corn Plant 
Cornstalk Plant 
Croton 
Corydalis 
Crocus, Autumn 
Crown of Thorns 
Cuban Laurel 
Cutleaf Philodendron 
Cycads 
Cyclamen 
Daffodil 
Daphne 
Datura 
Deadly Nightshade 
Death Camas 
Devil's Ivy 
Delphinium 
Decentrea 
Dieffenbachia 
Dracaena Palm 
Dragon Tree 
Dumb Cane 
Easter Lily 
Eggplant 
Elaine 
Elderberry 
Elephant Ear 
Emerald Feather 
English Ivy 
Eucalyptus 
Euonymus 
Evergreen 
Ferns 
Fiddle-leaf fig 
Florida Beauty 
Flax 
Four O'Clock 
Foxglove 
Fruit Salad Plant 
Geranium 
German Ivy 
Giant Dumb Cane 
Glacier Ivy 
Golden Chain 
Gold Dieffenbachia 
Gold Dust Dracaena 
Golden Glow 
Golden Pothos 
Gopher Purge 
Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy 
Heartland Philodendron 
Hellebore 
Hemlock, Poison 
Hemlock, Water 
Henbane 
Holly 
Honeysuckle 
Horsebeans 
Horsebrush 
Horse Chestnuts 
Hurricane Plant 
Hyacinth 
Hydrangea 
Indian Rubber Plant 
Indian Tobacco 
Iris 
Iris Ivy 
Jack in the Pulpit 
Janet Craig Dracaena 
Japanese Show Lily 
Java Beans 
Jessamine 
Jerusalem Cherry 
Jimson Weed 
Jonquil 
Jungle Trumpets 
Kalanchoe 
Lacy Tree Philodendron 
Lantana 
Larkspur 
Laurel 
Lily 
Lily Spider 
Lily of the Valley 
Locoweed 
Lupine 
Madagascar Dragon Tree 
Marble Queen 
Marigold 
Marijuana 
Mescal Bean 
Mexican Breadfruit 
Miniature Croton 
Mistletoe 
Mock Orange 
Monkshood 
Moonseed 
Morning Glory 
Mother-in Law's Tongue 
Morning Glory 
Mountain Laurel 
Mushrooms 
Narcissus 
Needlepoint Ivy 
Nephytis 
Nightshade 
Oleander 
Onion 
Oriental Lily 
Peace Lily 
Peach (pits and wilting leaves) 
Pencil Cactus 
Peony 
Periwinkle 
Philodendron 
Pimpernel 
Plumosa Fern 
Poinciana 
Poinsettia (low toxicity) 
Poison Hemlock 
Poison Ivy 
Poison Oak 
Pokeweed 
Poppy 
Potato 
Pothos 
Precatory Bean 
Primrose 
Privet, Common 
Red Emerald 
Red Princess 
Red-Margined Dracaena 
Rhododendron 
Rhubarb 
Ribbon Plant 
Rosemary Pea 
Rubber Plant 
Saddle Leaf Philodendron 
Sago Palm 
Satin Pothos 
Schefflera 
Scotch Broom 
Silver Pothos 
Skunk Cabbage 
Snowdrops 
Snow on the Mountain 
Spotted Dumb Cane 
Staggerweed 
Star of Bethlehem 
String of Pearls 
Striped Dracaena 
Sweetheart Ivy 
Sweetpea 
Swiss Cheese plant 
Tansy Mustard 
Taro Vine 
Tiger Lily 
Tobacco 
Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves) 
Tree Philodendron 
Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia 
Tulip 
Tung Tree 
Virginia Creeper 
Water Hemlock 
Weeping Fig 
Wild Call 
Wisteria 
Yews (Japanese, English, Western, American) 

Toxic Plants For Dogs

A

Alfalfa
Almond (pits of)
Aloe Vera
Alocasia
Amaryllis
Apple (seeds)
Apple Leaf Croton
Apricot (Pits of)
Arrowgrass
Asparagus Fern
Autumn Crocus
Avocado (fruit & pit)
Azalea

B

Baby's Breath
Baneberry
Bayonet
Beargrass
Beech
Belladonna
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Black-eyed Susan
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Bloodroot
Bluebonnet
Box
Boxwood
Branching Ivy
Buckeyes
Buddhist Pine
Burning Bush
Buttercup

C

Cactus, Candelabra
Caladium
Calla Lily
Castor Bean
Ceriman
Charming Dieffenbachia
Cherry (pits, seeds, & wilting leaves)
Cherry, most wild varieties
Cherry, ground
Cherry, Laurel
Chinaberry
Chinese Evergreen
Christmas Rose
Chrysanthemum
Cineria
Clematis
Cordatum
Coriaria
Cornflower
Corn Plant
Cornstalk Plant
Croton
Corydalis
Crocus, Autumn
Crown of Thorns
Cuban Laurel
Cutleaf Philodendron
Cycads
Cyclamen

D

Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Nightshade
Death Camas
Devil's Ivy
Delphinium 
Decentrea
Dieffenbachia
Dracaena Palm
Dragon Tree
Dumb Cane

E

Easter Lilly
Eggplant
Elaine
Elderberry
Elephant Ear
Emerald Feather
English Ivy
Eucalyptus
Euonymus
Evergreen



F

Ferns
Fiddle-leaf Fig
Florida Beauty
Flax
Four O'clock
Foxglove
Fruit Salad Plant

G

Geranium
German Ivy
Giant Dumb Cane
Glacier Ivy
Golden chain
Gold Dieffenbachia
Gold Dust Dracaena
Golden glow
Golden Pathos
Gopher Purge

H

Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy
Heartland Philodendron
Hellebore
Hemlock, Poison
Hemlock, Water
Henbane
Holly
Honeysuckle
Horsebeans
Horsebrush
Horse Chestnuts
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth
Hydrangea

I 

Indian Rubber Plant
Indian Tobacco
Iris
Iris Ivy

J

Jack in the Pulpit
Janet Craig Dracaena
Japanese Show Lily
Java Beans
Jessamine
Jerusalem Cherry
Jimson Weed
Jonquil
Jungle Trumpets

K

Kalanchoe

L

Lacy Tree Philodendron
Lantana
Larkspur
Laurel
Lily
Lily Spider
Lily of the Valley
Locoweed
Lupine

M

Madagascar Dragon Tree
Marble Queen
Marigold
Marijuana
Mescal Bean
Mexican Breadfruit
Miniature Croton
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mother-in-Law's Tongue
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms

N

Narcissus
Needlepoint Ivy
Nephytis
Nightshade


O

Oleander
Onion
Oriental Lily

P 

Peace Lily
Peach (pits & wilting leaves)
Pencil Cactus
Peony
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pimpernel
Plumosa Fern
Poinciana
Poinsettia (low toxicity)
Poison Hemlock
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Poppy
Potato
Pothos
Precatory Bean
Primrose
Privet, Common

R

Red Emerald
Red Princess
Red-Margined Dracaena
Philodendron
Rhubarb
Ribbon Plant
Rosemary Pea
Rubber Plant

S 

Saddle Leaf Philodendron
Sago Palm
Satin Pothos
Schefflera
Scotch Broom
Silver Pothos
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrops
Snow on the Mountain
Spotted Dumb Cane
Staggerweed
Star of Bethlehem
String of Pearls
Striped Dracaena
Sweetheart Ivy
Sweetpea
Swiss Cheese Plant

T

Tansy, Mustard
Taro Vine
Tiger Lily
Tobacco
Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem, and leaves)
Tree Philodendron
Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia
Tulip
Tung Tree

U

Umbrella Plant

V

Virginia Creeper

W

Water Hemlock
Weeping Fig
Wild Call
Wisteria

Y 

Yews--
e.g. Japanese Yew
English Yew
Western Yew
American Yew

Kansas State University's Poison Control
This is a free service for both pet owners and veterinarians.


POLLINATION AND CROSS POLLINATION

I was asked if planting hybrid seeds next to non-hybrid seeds would cause cross-
pollination, which would result in sterile seeds for next year's garden. The 
answer would have to a general "no," but that would depend upon the seed/plant 
species planted. Brassicas (the cabbage family), for example, do not produce 
seed the first year; nor do many of the garden crops we plant. Saving many 
plants for seed means over wintering them, so if only a few chosen non-hybrid 
specimens are saved for seed, no cross-pollination is possible. 

The curcubits are a real problem for seed savers. These annual vining plants 
make fruits which we call cucumbers, melons and squashes. Squashes will not 
cross-pollinate with cucumber or melons. Winter squashes (c. maxima -- 
buttercup, hubbard, banana) will cross-breed. Summer squashes (c. pepo -- 
zucchini, pumpkin, acorn and delicata) all readily cross with one another. 
Butternuts (c. moschata) are a separate group. Because curcubits will readily 
cross-breed, and all are bee pollinated, choices for seed savers becomes quite 
restricted, usually involving growing only one member of each group: buttercups 
or hubbards, but not both. Zucchini, acorn or pumpkin, but just one variety. The 
latter choice is relatively easy, because immature acorns have a similar texture 
and taste to zucchini.

If you plan on saving your own seed for a self-perpetuating garden, don't forget 
that the flowers/florets need to be pollinated in order to produce viable 
seed...and the best pollinators are honeybees. With the demise of the feral 
honeybees to tracheal mites and Varroa mites, reliable pollination now means you 
should keep a couple of hives of honeybees near your garden, if possible. The 
side benefit of producing your own honey is also extremely important in survival 
plans.

http://www.endtimesreport.comMany people dont know the terminology of the 
animals they raise for 
parts of, age groups and what-have-you.. and I came across this and 
thought I would share.

Avian - Of, relating to, or characteristic of birds; derived from 
birds. 

Bantam - A small miniature chicken, usually one-fourth to one-fifth 
the size of regular chickens; frequently called "bantie." Most, but 
not all, bantams are the likeness of a larger variety of domestic 
chickens. 

Breed - A group of chickens within a class having a distinctive body 
shape and the same general features and weight. 

Broiler or fryer - A young meat-type chicken, usually 9 to 12 weeks 
of age, of either sex, that can be cooked tender by broiling or 
frying, usually weighing between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 pounds. 

Class - A group of chickens that has been developed in a particular 
region of the world. 

Cock - A male chicken over one year of age; also called cock bird 
and old rooster. 

Cockerel - A male chicken under one year of age; also called young 
rooster. 

Crossbred - The offspring of parents of different varieties or 
breeds. 

Gallus domesticus - The domestic chicken. 

Gallus gallus - The Red Jungle Fowl; also called gallus bankiva. 

Genus - A group of closely related animals or plants which differ 
from one another in only slight characteristics. 

Hen - A female chicken over one year or age. 

Inbred - The offspring of closely related parents; resulting from 
inbreeding. 

Incrossbred - The offspring from crossing inbred parents of the same 
or different breeds. 

Layers - Mature female chickens kept for egg production; also called 
laying hens. 

Pullet - A female chicken under one year of age. 

Purebred - The offspring of purebred parents that are of the same 
class, breed, and variety. 

Roaster - A young meat-type chicken, usually 3 to 5 months of age, 
of either sex, that can be cooked tender by roasting, and usually 
weighing 4 pounds or over. 

Sexed chickens - Day-old chicks with the males and females 
separated. 

Started pullets - Female chickens that are partially grown, usually 
to point of lay that is about 20 weeks of age, by specialized 
growers for sale to egg farmers. 

Straight-run chicks - Day-old chicks that have not been separated 
according to sexes. 

Strain - A group of birds within a variety that has been bred by one 
person or firm for some time and has more or less uniform 
characteristics and capabilities. 

Strain cross - The offspring of parents of two or more different 
strains belonging to the same variety. 

Stewing chicken - A mature female chicken, usually more than 10 
months of age; that requires moist, pressurized, or extended 
cooking; also called hen or fowl. 

Variety - A subdivision of a breed, distingushed by color, color 
pattern, or kind of comb. 

Words about the anatomy of chickens
Beak - The bird's bill; the protruding mouthpart of a bird. 

Cloaca - The vent or common opening in birds through which the 
intestinal, urinary, and reproductive tracts empty. 

Comb - The fleshy, red outgrowth on top of a chicken's head; there 
are eight types of combs. 

Earlobes - The fleshy patch of bare skin below the ears varying in 
size and shape with the color red, white, blue, or purple, according 
to the breed. 

Gizzard - An internal organ of birds. It has thick muscular walls 
and a tough lining. It crushes and grinds foods by muscular action 
and with pebbles or grit. 

Infundibulum - The funnel end of the oviduct that picks up the yolk 
when it is released from the ovary; the area in which fertilization 
of the true egg takes place; also called funnel. 

Isthmus - The section of the oviduct next to the magnum where the 
water and mineral salts are deposited and the inner and outer shell 
membranes are formed. 

Magnum - The section of the oviduct next to the infundibulum; the 
area in which the thick white is deposited and the shape is formed. 

Ovary - The organ of the female which holds the true eggs and 
produces the yolks on which the true eggs are located. 

Oviduct - The organ of the female birds that puts the albumen, shell 
membranes, and the shell of the avian egg around the yolk. 

Ovum - The female germ cell; plural form is ova. 

Pituitary gland - A small kidney-shaped gland located at the base of 
the brain that produces hormones involved in sexual maturity, the 
maturation and release of yolks, and egg laying. 

Uterus - The section of the oviduct next to the isthmus where final 
portions of the white and minerals are deposited and shell and shell 
pigment are added. 

Vagina - The section of the oviduct next to the uterus in which the 
cuticle is deposited on the shell and the eggs are turned completely 
around on its long axis so that the large end is laid first. 

Wattles - The fleshy, red growths that hang from the side and base 
of the chicken's beak. 

Yolk sac - The follicle where an ovum and its surrounding yolk are 
held until the yolk matures and is released. 

Words about the avian egg 
Air cell - The air space between the two shell membranes, usually at 
the large end of the egg, that can be plainly seen when an egg is 
candled. 

Albumen - The white of an egg, consisting of outer thin, firm, inner 
thin, and chalaziferous layers. 

Avian egg - The mass of material constituting the bird egg - the 
shell, shell membranes, albumen, and yolk - that is designed by 
nature to nourish and protect the true egg. 

Blastoderm - A fertilized true egg. 

Blastodisc - A true egg that was not fertilized. 

Chalazae - The two whitish cords on opposite sides of the yolk that 
hold the yolk in the center of the albumen and serve as a rotating 
axis to keep the germ cell on the top side of the yolk and next to 
the heat of the hen's body. 

Cuticle - A secretion of the uterus consisting mainly of protein 
that serves to partially seal the pores in the egg's shell and acts 
as a lubricant when the egg is laid; commonly called the bloom. 

Egg - The microscopic cell of the female; the true egg; the female 
germ cell. 

Fertile - An egg that is fertilized; the capability of an egg to 
develop into a chick. 

Fertilization - The act or process of making or becoming fertile; 
the union of a male cell with a female cell. 

Infertile - An egg that is not fertilized, will not hatch. 

Shell - The hard outer surface of an egg made up largely of calcium 
carbonate; the shell has pores allowing loss of carbon dioxide and 
moisture from the egg. 

Shell membranes - Two thin membranes next to the shell and 
surrounding the albumen and yolk; known as inner and outer shell 
membranes; they are one of the egg's chief defenses against 
bacterial invasion. 

Sperm - The microscopic cell of the male; the male germ cell. 

Yolk - The round yellow mass upon which the true egg is located and 
that provides nutrients for the developing embryo. 


Words about incubation and embryology
Allantois - A sac connected to the emrbyo's abdomen making 
respiration by the embryo possible; it also stores excretions, 
absorbs albumen used for food by the embryo, and absorbs calcium 
from the egg shell for the structural needs of the embryo. 

Amnion - A transparent sac, filled with colorless fluid, surrounding 
the embryo; the amnion and amniotic fluid protect the developing 
embryo from shock and permit it to exercise. 

Broody hen - A hen that through hormonal changes has undergone 
marked changes in behavior and physiology, including cessation of 
laying and development of the maternal instincts. A hen that wants 
to sit on eggs to hatch them and to brood chicks. 

Chick tooth - A tiny, sharp, horny projection on the end of the 
chick's beak used by the chick to peck holes in the shell. Also 
known as egg tooth. 

Chorion - A membrane that surrounds both the yolk sac and the 
amnion; it has no apparent initial function but later fuses with the 
allantois to form the chorio- allantois membrane. 

Down - Soft, fine, hair-like feathers on young birds. 

Embryo - The developing chick within the egg. 

Embryology - The study of the formation and development of embryos. 

Extra embryonic membranes - Membranes outside the embryo's body that 
make respiration, nutrition, and secretion possible and provide 
protection; they include the yolk sac, amnion, allantois, and 
chorion. 

Fertility - The quality or state of being fertile. 

Hatchability - The quality or state of being hatchable. 

Humidity - The amount of moisture in the air in the incubator; 50 to 
55 percent relative humidity is ideal the first 18 days of 
incubation and about 65 percent the last three days. 

Incubation - The process of applying heat, either naturally or 
artificially, to eggs to cause them to hatch. 

Incubator - An artificially heated container for hatching eggs. In a 
still-air incubator the air is not circulated mechanically. Forced-
air incubators have a fan or fans to circulate the air. 

Pip - To break through or peck holes in the shell by the chick. 

Primitive streak - A vertical, opaque line where the embryo begins 
to grow and develop. 

Set - To put eggs under a broody hen or in an incubator to hatch 
them. 

Temperature - The level of heat in the incubator; can vary from 99 
degrees to 103 degrees F. 100.5 degrees F is optimum for a still-air 
incubator. 

Turn - The act of changing the position of eggs being incubated to 
prevent the embryos from sticking to the shell membranes. 


tenzicut - who made an "X" and turned her eggs 3x a day

Subj: {OHG} Re: Worm control for sweet corn  
Date: 6/12/2003 9:14:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time 
From: thornkell@charter.net 

Predatory nematodes are microscopic critters that travel through 
liquid mediums to kill and multiply in bad garden bugs, like skeeter 
larvae, fleas, ticks, grasshoppers, chafer beetles...etc...  I get 
mine from www.gardensalive.com  www.natpestco.com  
www.buglogical.com  Whichever has the best price when I need them.  
They come in a sponge filled with liquid and nematodes.  You soak the 
sponge in water and then use that water to either water afflicted 
areas or inject into plants.  The nematodes travel through the moist 
ground or through the sap in the plants to seek out prey and kill 
them dead.  Wonderful little buggies...

Anybody want me to sing my ode to nematodes?  LOL
From Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens:)

Pickling:

Pickling is a good way to preserve hard-cooked eggs. Pickled eggs
may be used in place of hard-cooked eggs in salads or in place of
pickles in sandwiches. They also make a great snack.

Over the years, I have prepared many dozens of pickled bantam eggs,
packed hot in boiling vinegar and processed in sealed pint jars in
boiling water for ten minutes. Various experts I have consulted
can't agree on whether or not such eggs are safe for long-term
storage out of the refrigerator. A problem would arise if the
pickling solution did not penetrate all the way through the eggs.

The fresher the eggs, the better. Select small and medium eggs so
the pickling solution can easily penetrate. Half a dozen bantam
eggs will fit into a wide mouth pint jar. One dozen medium eggs
will fit into a wide-mouth quart jar.

For the pickling solution, mix your own vinegar and spices oruse the
juice from prepared cucumber pickles or pickled beets. The eggs
will be more tender if you pour the solution over them when it is
boiling rather than letter it cool first.

Season small eggs for at least two weeks, medium eggs for at least
four weeks before serving them. The acidity in the pickling
solution keeps bacteria from growing, but also causes eggs
eventually to deteriorate. Stored in the refrigerator, pickled eggs
keep well for six months.

Old-Fashioned Pickled Eggs

4-6 whole cloves
1 stick cinnamon
2 cups white vinegar
1/2 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
6 hard-cooked eggs

1. Place the cloves and cinnamon in a saucepan with the vinegar,
and bring mixture to a boil.

2. Blend the mustard, salt, and pepper with a little water and stir
into boiling vinegar. Simmer for 5 minutes.

3. Peel the eggs and place them in a jar

4. Pour hot mixture over eggs

5. Cover and refrigerate


Oiling:

Coating eggs with oil seals the shell to prevent evaporation during
storage. Eggs should be oiled 24 hours after being laid so some of
their carbon dioxide can escape and the whites won't take on a muddy
appearance.

Into a small bowl pour white mineral oil, available at any drug
store. The oil must be free of bacteria and mold, which you can
ensure by heating the oil to 180 degrees F (82 degrees C) for 20
minutes. Cool the oil to 70 degrees F (21 degrees C) before dipping
the eggs.

The eggs must be at room temperature (50 to 70 degrees F/10-21
degrees C) and fully dry. With tongs or a slotted spoon, immerse
the eggs in the oil one by one. To remove excess oil, place each
dipped egg on a rack (such as a rack used for cake cooling or candy
making) and leg the oil drain for at least 30 minutes. Catch the
dripping oil for reuse. Discard oil that contains debris or water,
or that takes on a strange color.

Oiled eggs may be used like fresh eggs except when it comes to cake
baking -- oiling eggs interferes with the foaming properties of the
whites so they won't whip up as well as fresh ones. Experiments in
Australia prove that oiled eggs will keep for as long as 35 days at
tropical temperatures. Stored at 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) for
eight weeks or 70 degrees F (21 degrees C) for five weeks, they
retain their flavor better than untreated eggs.

In clean, closed cartons in a cool place, eggs dipped in oil will
keep for several months. Like all eggs stored for the long term,
they'll eventually develop an off flavor. The longer the eggs are
stored, the greater becomes the flavor intensity compared to
untreated eggs. This flavor change is pronounced in eggs stored at
34 degrees F (1 degree C) for more than four months, and by six
months the of flavor is unacceptable to most people.


To be continued...

Misty


(from Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens)

Thermostabilization:

Thermostabilization was regularly practiced by housewives during the
late 19th century. Heating destroys most spoilage-causing bacteria
on the shell and seals the shell by coagulating a thin layer of
albumen just beneath it. When the egg cools, the coagulated albumen
sticks to the egg membrane and cannot be seen in the opened egg.
Unlike oiling, this method does not affect an egg's foaming
properties.

Process eggs the day they are laid. Heat tap water to exactly 130
degrees F (54 degrees C). Use a thermometer, since the temperature
is critical--the water must be just warm enough to destroy spoilage
organisms but not hot enough to cook the eggs. Place eggs in a wire
basket (such as a vegetable steamer or pasta cooker). Submerge the
eggs in the water for 15 minutes if they are at room temperature, or
18 minutes if they have been refrigerated. Lift the basket and
thoroughly drain and dry the eggs. Thermostabilized eggs will keep
for two weeks at 68 degrees F (20 degrees C) and eight months at 34
degrees F (1 degree C).


Thermostabilization and Oiling:

Thermostabilization destroys bacteria and protects albumen quality.
Oiling minimizes weight loss due to evaporation and preserves yolk
quality. Combining the two improves an egg's keeping qualities
compared to either method alone. You can thermostablize eggs and
then oil them, or combine the two procedures into one. For a
combination operation, heat oil to 140 degrees F (60 degrees C) and
hold it at that temperature. Using a pair of tongs, rotate each egg
in the hot oil for 10 minutes, then set the egg on a rack to drain.
As with simple oiling, albumen foaming properties are reduced by
this process, making these eggs unsuitable for cake baking.


Water Glass:

Submerging eggs in water glass was the preferred method of storage
during the earlier part of the 20th century. Water glass is a
syrupy concentrated solution of sodium silicate, available from a
drugstore. Its purpose is to minimize evaporation and inhibit
bacteria. The water glass imparts no taste or odor and--although it
causes a silica crust to develop on the outside of the shell--does
not penetrate the shell.

Put eggs in water glass the same day they are laid. Candle them and
eliminate any with blood spots or meat spots. As with the other
processes, use only clean (not cleaned) eggs that are free of
cracks. place the eggs in a scalded glass jar with a tight fitting
lid. A 1-gallon jar will hold about 3 dozen eggs.

Combine 1 part water glass to 10 parts boiled water. If the
solution is not diluted enough, it will become a gel that makes
handling the eggs more difficult. Mix the solution thoroughly and
let it cool. Slowly pour the cooled liquid over the eggs until the
solution covers the eggs by at least 2 inches (5 cm). Do not save
leftover solution. Screw the lid onto the jar to prevent
evaporation. If you don't have many eggs at one time, continue
adding eggs and fresh solution until the jar is full, always making
sure the solution is at least 2 inches (5 cm) above the eggs.

Store the jar in a refrigerator, basement, or other cool place where
the temperature is preferably not over 40 degrees F (4.5 degrees
C). At 35 degrees F (2 degrees C), eggs in water glass will keep
for 6 months or more. If you wish to hard cook an egg, poke a tiny
hole in the big end to keep the shell from cracking as a result of
the silica crust.

Even at room temperatures as high as 55 degrees F (13 degrees C),
eggs in water glass will keep for several months and be satisfactory
for cooking. Under the best storage conditions, water glass causes
eggs to lose their fresh flavor and take on a flat taste. The
whites will eventually get thin and the yolks will flatten, making
them less suitable for frying or poaching than for scrambling or
using in a recipe.

From Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens:

At some times of the year you'll have more eggs than you can use,
while at other times you'll have too few. it becomes logical to
preserve surplus eggs in times of plento to use in times of need.

Throughout the ages, different means have been devised to prolong
the storage life of eggs. The ancient Chinese stored them for years
in various materials ranging from clay to wood ashes to cooked
rice. You probably wouldn't want to eat one of those eggs, with its
greenish yolk and gelatinous brown albumen.

In modern times, many options have been developed for preserving
eggs. Although none is an outright substitute for cold storage,
these methods can let you extend shelf life. They also offer short-
term ways to prolong storage without electricity, which can be handy
if you live in or are planning a trip to the outback. Even in the
back woods, you can often take advantage of a cold running stream or
an ice bank to keep eggs fresh. Many cellars offer suitable egg
storage conditions. The cooler the temperature, the longer eggs
will keep without spoiling.

Eggs can be safely stored for the short term (two to three months)
at temperatures up to 55 degrees F (13 degrees C), where the
relative humidity is close to 75 percent. The moisture level is
important since at low humidities eggs dry out and at high
humidities they get moldy. If the storage are is damp, mold on the
shells needs to be wiped off before the eggs are used. A little air
circulation helps retard mold growth.

At 30 degrees F (-1 degree C) eggs will keep for as long as nine
months. The temperature must not get below 28 degrees F (-2 degrees
C), though, or the eggs will freeze and burst their shells.
Relative humidity of 85 percent is best for long-term storage. To
prevent mold growth and condensation, seal egg cartons in plastic
bags. To minimize drying out at lower humidities, use
thermostabilization, oil, or water glass, as described later.

Preserve only eggs with clean uncracked shells. Dirty eggs that
have been cleaned by washing or dry buffing do not keep well under
prolonged storage. Given the infinite number of combinations of
possible temperature and humidity conditions, it's not possible to
list definitive storage times under all conditions. The longer you
store eggs, the more likely they are to develop a stale or off
flavor that makes them less suited for breakfast than for use in
receipes.

Refrigeration:

Refrigeration is often the quickest, most convenient way to store
eggs. On the lowest shelf, where the temperature is coolest, eggs
in a closed carton will keep for up to five weeks. The biggest
problem with a household refrigerator is its low humidity,
especially in a self-defrosting model. If you wrap egg cartons in
plastic bags to prevent moisture loss (as well as absorption of
flavors from other foods), you can refrigerate eggs for two months.
Eggs on an egg rack on the door won't last long due to jostling,
blasts of warm air whenever the door is closed, and lost moisture.

If you use only whites or yolks for a receipe, you can refrigerate
leftover whites in a tightly covered container for up to four days.
Cover leftover yolks with cold water and use them within two days.

Freezing:

Freezing lets you keep eggs longer than any other method--up to one
year at 0 degrees F (-18 degrees C). Freeze only raw eggs; hard-
cooked eggs will turn rubbery. Since eggs that are frozen intact
will expand and burst their shells, the shells must be removed. You
may store eggs either whole or with the whites and yolks separated.
To keep yolks or whole eggs from getting gummy, add sugar or salt,
depending on how you plan to use them. Freeze the eggs in ice cube
trays or in freezer containers.

Eggs that have been frozen in ice dube trays should be removed and
wrapped in heavy freezer paper or plastic bags. To compare the size
of a frozen cube with the normal size of an egg (or its yolk or
white), use a measuring spoon to determine how much each slot in the
tray holds, then consult the acompanying "Frozen Egg Equivalents"
chart. If you use metal trays with removable grids, measure the
total amount the tray holds and divide by the number of cubes per
tray.

For use in receipes calling for several eggs, freeze eggs (or yolks
or whites) in air-tight freezer containers, each holding just enough
for one recipe. Leave a little head space to allow for expansion,
otherwise the lid may pop or the container may split. Place a
square of freezer paper on top of the eggs to minimize the formation
of ice crystals. Label each container with the date, contents, and
recipe for which it is intended.

To store whole eggs, break the contents into a bowl, stir just enogh
to blend the yolks with the whites (taking care not to whip in air),
and press the eggs through a sieve to break up the thick albumen.
you can get by without sugar or salt if the whites and yolks are
thoroughly mixed. Otherwise, to each cup of eggs add 1/2 tsp. salt
(for a main dish) or 1/2 Tbsp. honey, corn syrup or sugar (for a
dessert). Pour the mixture into trays or containers for freezing.

If you prefer, carefully separate the whites from the yolks, taking
care to avoid getting any yolk into the whites, so the whites can be
whipped later. Press the whites through a sieve to break up the
thick albumen, and freeze them in trays or containers. Thawed
whites can be whipped just like fresh ones if you let them warm to
room temperature for 30 minutes before beating them.

Separated yolks need sugar or salt to prevent gumminess. Add either
1/8 tsp salt or 1/2 Tbsp honey, corn syrup, or sugar per 4 yolks
(approximately 1/4 cup ro 60 ml). Freeze the yolks in ice cube
trays or air-tight containers.

Thaw only as many frozen eggs as you can use within three days.
Thaw them overnight in the refrigerator or in air-tight containers
placed in cool water, 50 to 60 degrees F (10 to 16 degrees C). Use
thawed eggs only in foods that will be thoroughly cooked.

Frozen egg equivalents:
2 Tbsp thawed white = 1 large fresh white
1 Tbsp thawed yolk = 1 large fresh yolk
3 Tbsp thawed whole egg = 1 large fresh egg

MistySubj: {OHG} What equals a Quart Jar.. 
From:    tenzicut@yahoo.com (tenzicut)

4# Aparagus = 1 Quart Jar

4# Lima Beans = 1 Quart Jar

2.5# Green Beans = 1 Quart Jar

3# Beets = 1 Quart Jar

3# Carrots = 1 Quart Jar

5# Corn = 1 Quart Jar

5# Peas = 1 Quart Jar

3# Punpkin = 1 Quart Jar

5# Spinich = 1 Quart Jar

4# Squash = 1 Quart Jar

8# Sweet Potatoes = 1 Quart Jar

3# Apples = 1 Quart Jar

3.5# Apples for applesauce = 1 Quart Jar

3# berries = 1 Quart Jar

2.5# Cherries = 1 Quart Jar

3# peaches = 1 Quart Jar

3# pears = 1 Quart Jar

3# plums = 1 Quart Jar

3.5# tomatoes = 1 Quart Jar




FROZEN
______

1.5# Beets = 1 pint 

1# broccoli = 1 pint 

1# Brussels = 1 pint 

1.5# carrots = 1 pint 

2 heads of Cauliflower = 3 pint 

2.5# corn = 1 pint 

3 Qts raspberries = 4 pints frozen

tenzicut

From:  sjames1 sjames1@mindspring.com 
Date:  Tue Mar 30, 2004  10:30 pm
Subject:  Re: {OHG} Rabbits
 
Good evening everyone :)

I've been raising & showing rabbits for 10 years & am a
working member of the American Rabbit Breeders Ass., the Holland Lop
Rabbit Specialty Club & the National Mini Rex Rabbit Club.

I started out 10 years ago with Californians. IMP&HO the Californians are the 
best way to go for meat rabbits. They only eat 6 ounces per day of feed plus
a small handfull of hay whereas the Flemish Giants eat more than 12
ounces of food per day plus a BIG handfull of hay. They only get up to
6 pounds unlike the Flemish Giants that get up to 14 pounds & more.
The smaller rabbits have better tasting & more tender meat than the
bigger rabbits & you keep your cost down & increase your profits.

If you are going to sell the meat then you will need a license from your
state Ag. office. Forget the local extension office, they know nothing.
But be ready to be looked at with a fine tooth comb cause they will be
at your house every month!!

Connie, you made some great points & I agree with 99% of what you said
BUT & it is a VERY BIG BUT (sorry) I have to disagree with you on one
very important point. Rabbits are NOT Rodents!!! Where it is very true
they LOVE to Chew, on anything, they belong to the Order Lagomorphs,
which includes rabbits, hares and pikas. These animals differ very
markedly from rodents in several ways, most of which relate to their
natural diet of grass. Rodents, like humans cannot live on grass.
Lagomorphs are built to do just that. When I say "grass" I'm talking
about wild rabbits. Domestic Rabbits should never be given grass as
it will upset their tummies.

They have special front teeth, with a second set of upper incisors
behind the visible Bugs Bunny ones, so that the lower incisors force
grass blades between the two upper sets to snip them off (like a mower
blade and cutter bar). And they have special back teeth - broad and flat
surfaced to grind tough flexible grass. All this is unlike rodents who
have big strong front teeth to gnaw hard food with, and smaller less
powerful back teeth that are only needed to crush any bigger bits of the
gnawed stuff.

Once they have eaten the grass, lagomorphs have to digest it, and again
this is very different from rodents. Rodents eat similar foods to humans
and digest it in the same way. Lagomorphs have more in common with other
grass eaters such as cows and horses - they all use gut bacteria to turn
indigestible grass into something digestible. Cattle have a special
stomach so they can ruminate and chew the cud, horses have a huge
appendix to act like a brewer's vat and break down their food (or get
colic when it goes wrong), rabbits pass food through their gut twice -
first time for the bacteria to break it down to make caecotrophs, second
time to absorb the goodness themselves. This act of coprophagy (eating
their own excreta) is the most dramatic and obvious way in which we can
be sure that rabbits are NOT rodents.

The best cage to get for your rabbit's is an all wire one. Connie is
right that they will chew through a wooden one & be yard bunnies before
you know it :) Wire is best to because it is easier to keep clean &
doesn't collect the fungus & bacteria that the wood does, I learned
this the hard way :( There are several great places on line that sell
cages. "KW Cages" (kwcages@aol.com) is one, Trammells Treasures
(they only have an email address tho), Hart's Bunny Barn
(www.hartsbunnybarn.com), Quality Cage Co. (www.qualitycage.com),
K.D. Cage co. & supplies (Kdcage@nltc.net), Ca-Mar's Equipment Co.
(www.DaMars.8m.com), Klubertanz Equipment Co.,Inc. (www.klubertanz.com),
& Bass Equipment Co. (www.bassequipment.com).

If you look for rabbit shows in your area, there is usually someone
there that sells cages & equipment.

The best thing for me to suggest you to do is to join the A.R.B.A.
(www.arba.com). They are a treasure trove of information, a great place
to advertise + they have a great scollarship program for youth. It is
very family oriented & a great hobby for the whole family.

BTW, here is my website: http://www.winsteadweb.com/index1.htm
just keep in mind that I REALLY need to update :)

Hope this helps :)
Sherrie Winstead
zone 7b in GA. 
Rainbarrels... give it a try

Rain is a naturally soft water and devoid of minerals, chlorine, 
fluoride, and other chemicals. It is usually collected from the 
roofs of houses and picks up very little contamination when it 
falls. You can harvest a surprisingly large amount of rainwater from 
your gutters with one or more rain barrels. Instead of letting the 
water flow down your driveway and into a storm drain, you can 
collect it. 

Because harvested rainwater does pick up some contamination, you 
need a good filtering system before it can be used as potable 
(drinking) water. Many cities require the filtration system to be 
certified and the water to be tested on a regular basis. However, 
you do not need a filtration system for landscape uses. You can use 
it directly from your rain barrel on your garden. 

The most obvious reason for harvesting rainwater is to save money. 
Even if you live in a rural area and have your own well, the well 
water may be hard enough to justify harvesting rainwater. Have you 
ever washed clothes with really hard water? There are other reasons 
as well. I know rainwater makes my hair so very soft.

Water is a critical issue in many areas, particularly in the western 
half of the United States. If you harvest rainwater with rain 
barrels and show others how well it works, they will build their own 
systems. Droughts will become less of an issue and municipal water 
supplies won't be so overstressed.

Another reason for harvesting rainwater with rain barrels is to help 
your trees and plants. A lot of old theories about trees and plants 
have been disproved in the last couple of decades. Research has 
shown professional arborists and gardeners the value of an organic 
soil environment for trees and other kinds of plants. 

Trees and plants rely on fungus, bacteria, and nematodes to help 
them absorb the minerals and nutrients they need. As an example, 
trees and plants depend on a fungal root system called mycorrhizae. 
Mycorrhizae attaches itself to tree and plant root hairs and extends 
the root hair system. Mycorrhizae uses some of the plant's energy, 
but provides the plant with minerals it can't otherwise absorb. In 
healthy soil, the mycorrhizae of one tree connects with mycorrhizae 
of other similar trees. Our garden doesn't consist of this plant and 
that plant, but a vast growing environment. Trees and plants have an 
efficient immune system that allows them to fend off diseases and 
other invaders as long as they have a healthy soil environment and 
aren't stressed by other factors.

Chemical fertilizers, fungicides, pesticides, and drought disrupt 
the balance and harmony of the soil. Trees and plants are weakened 
and disease takes over. The chemicals and hard water from many of 
our municipal water systems also add to the imbalance of the soil. 
Watering with soft rainwater will indeed make your garden smile.

Where to Start Collecting Water with Rain Barrels

There are a few things you can do to find out whether or not 
rainwater harvesting is right for you. The first step is to find out 
how much rain you can collect from your roof into rain barrels. When 
you find this out, you will be so amazed that you will want to 
follow the other steps.

How Much Water Can You Collect in Rain Barrels During a Rainfall?

Believe it or not, for every inch of rain that falls on a catchment 
area of 1,000 square feet, you can expect to collect approximately 
600 gallons of rainwater. Ten inches of rain falling on a 1,000 
square foot catchment area will generate about 6,000 gallons of 
rainwater. That's right, six thousand gallons! 

Your roof cachment area is equal to the total square feet of your 
house, plus the extension of your eaves. You don't need to consider 
the angle of your roof, like you would if you were buying roofing 
material, because rain falls evenly on every part of the roof. 
To calculate the square feet of your house, measure the area of the 
outside walls. Be sure to include the overhang of your eaves.
If you have an oblong house with outside dimensions of 36 feet by 46 
feet and the overhang of your eaves is 2 feet, you need to add 2 
feet to each end of the wall. Two plus two equals four, so 36 plus 4 
equals 40 and 46 plus 4 equals 50. You will multiply 40 times 50 
(length times width). Your roof catchment area is 2,000 square feet. 
(2 + 36 + 2) x (2 +46 + 2) = 2,000 sq ft
Since one inch of rainfall provides approximately 600 gallons of 
water for a 1,000 square foot catchment area, and your sample house 
has a 2,000 square foot catchment area (twice the area), you will 
multiply 600 gallons times 2.
600 gal x 2 = 1,200 gal for a 2,000 sq ft roof.
If you have an average rainfall of 20 inches per year, you have the 
potential to collect 24,000 gallons of water in one year.
1,200 gal x 20 inches of rain = 24,000 gal
Does that get your attention? Actually rainwater harvesting systems 
aren't 100% efficient. Most sources estimate an efficiency between 
70% and 90%. Out buildings like barns or sheds can also be used to 
increase your harvest. Sometimes you can even use a patio or other 
paved area. 
How Much Water do You Use (Municipal Supply)

Now you need to have some idea of how much water you use each year. 
You can check your utility bills if you rely on municipal water. If 
you have your own well, this step will be more difficult and we will 
talk about it later. 
" Your utility bills are usually calculated in CCF. One CCF equals 
one hundred cubic feet of water, which equals 748 gallons. (The 
first 'C' represents the Roman numeral C, which equals 100; the 
second 'C' stands for cubic; the 'F' stands for feet.)
If you have used a total of 110 CCF for the year, you can multiply 
110 x 748 to determine the number of gallons.
110 CCF x 748 = 82,280 gal

Since you can only harvest 24,000 gallons from your roof and your 
actual use is 82,280 gallons, it looks like collecting rainwater 
won't be much help. However, this information is misleading. The 
largest amount of rain falls in the winter in most areas, so you 
probably don't water your landscape during the winter.

Check your water bills again and look at how much water you use in 
the rainy season. Also check the average rainfall for your area. 
Many cities and counties have the statistics on line. You know which 
months you water your landscape and which months you don't water it. 
There is another way to more accurately estimate how much water is 
used in the house, as opposed to the landscape. You can turn on each 
water faucet in the house and measure how much water comes out in a 
given period of time and then estimate how many minutes each faucet 
is used each day.

As an example, you can turn on the water in your shower and catch it 
with a one-gallon container. If it fills up in thirty seconds, you 
know that a shower will use two gallons per minute. You then 
estimate the amount of time spent in the shower by members of your 
household. You can check your toilets by turning off the supply 
valve and flushing the toilet. Use your one-gallon container to fill 
it back up. That will tell you how many gallons it uses for each 
flush. You can then multiply those gallons times the number of 
flushes per day. 

Household usage won't change much during the year, but landscape 
usage will vary considerably. Total the water usage during the dry 
months and the water usage during the wet months. You will probably 
see that a lot of your water usage, up to fifty percent or more, is 
used for watering your garden during the dry months.

Using the 24,000 gallons of harvested rainwater during the dry 
season will reduce municipal water system stress. Since many 
municipalities charge extra for high water usage during the summer, 
you may also save quite a bit of money.

How Much Water do You Use (Private Water Well)
It is much more difficult to figure out your water usage if you have 
a well. Well systems usually rely on a submersible pump in a deep 
shaft. The water is pumped out of the well and into a pressurized 
tank. A tank pressure switch starts the pump when the pressure in 
the tank drops below the set point, say 40 ppsi (pounds per square 
inch). The pump shuts off again when the tank pressure reaches the 
cut off pressure, say 60 ppsi. 

A water meter is the best indicator of water usage, but a lot of 
wells don't have a water meter. You can install one on the water the 
supply line. However, if you have the documentation on the well 
pump, it is possible to make an estimate without installing a water 
meter.

You can make a rough estimate of your water usage by noting how long 
your pump runs each day and then looking at your documentation to 
see how many gallons per minute (gpm) it pumps. As an example, your 
documentation may indicate that you have a half horsepower, single 
phase, 220 volt, pump that uses 9 amps at 40 gpm.
If your pump runs for fifteen minutes a day at 40 gpm, you can 
calculate the gallons per day by multiplying 40 gallons per minute x 
15 minutes, which equals 600 gallons a day. 
40 gpm x 15 minutes = 600 gallons per day
You can calculate the gallons you use each month by multiplying the 
600 gallons per day by 30 days.
600 gallons per day x 30 days = 18,000 gallons a month.
Now you can find out how much the 18,000 gallons per month costs by 
calculating the KWH (kilowatt hours) your pump uses each month. 
First calculate the watts by multiplying the volts times amps. In 
this example, you multiply 220 volts times 9 amps, which equals 
1,980 watts. 
220 volts x 9 amps = 1,980 watts
To find the watts used per day (watt hours), multiply the 1,980 
watts times .25 (fifteen minutes equals .25 hours).
1,980 watts x .25 hours = 495 watt hours per day
The next step is to multiply the 495 daily watt hours by 30 days to 
get the monthly total and then to divide the monthly total by 1,000 
to convert the figure to kwh (kilowatt hours).
495 watt hours x 30 days = 14.85 kwh
1,000
Now you can look at your electric utility bill and see how much the 
14.85 monthly kwh costs. 

You can also estimate your water usage by turning on each water 
faucet and measuring how much water comes out in a given period of 
time as described in the last section. You will also have to measure 
the landscape usage in the same way.

As you can see, estimating water usage is not very accurate. Whether 
or not you decide to harvest rainwater, you should install a water 
meter. You should also install an hour meter that is wired into your 
float switch. That will tell you how much water you use and how long 
the pump takes to pump it. If the pump begins to take more time to 
pump the same amount of water, you know something is wrong and you 
can get it fixed before the pump burns up. If you aren't familiar 
with plumbing and wiring, you should have a professional install the 
water meter and hour meter. 

Some rural homeowners who have a house and several out buildings are 
able to rely on harvested rainwater 100% of the time.

Some roofs, such as old tar and gravel or old asbestos shingle, 
create too much contamination for rainwater harvesting. Also, if you 
live in an area that contains heavy industrial contamination, 
rainwater may also be contaminated.

Any catchment area will pick up some contamination from leaves, bird 
droppings, dust, and other natural causes. This water is fine for 
watering your garden, but it will need a good filtering system 
before you can be sure it is safe to drink. 

Types of Rain Barrel Systems

All rainwater harvesting systems lose some of the rainwater. It may 
spill out of the gutters and the wind may blow it away. Evaporation 
will undoubtedly capture some of it. 

All systems should use covered barrels or cisterns that keep the 
water from accumulating leaves and other contaminants. They should 
also have some kind of filter to keep out silt and leaves. Filters 
can range from a funnel with mesh in the bottom that is covered by 
gravel to a rainwater washing apparatus that you can purchase. The 
first few minutes of rainwater should not be collected because it is 
the most contaminated.

Perhaps the simplest use of rainwater is to put a barrel under one 
of the gutter downspouts and use the water on sensitive indoor 
plants. The plants will appreciate the soft water. The barrel should 
be covered between uses.

A slightly more sophisticated system might use several barrels 
connected together near the bottom with pvc pipe or hose. A small 
pump can be used in one of the barrels to pump the water to your 
garden. All barrels will drain simultaneously.

Bigger systems may use gravity to feed water from gutters to a 
larger cistern, which pumps water to the landscape.

There are many possible configurations and degrees of complexity. 
They will all make your garden smile. You can spend anywhere from a 
few dollars to thousands of dollars. Some online sites sell cisterns 
and other rainwater harvesting equipment. 


THE PROJECT:
If you have a gutter and downspout system on your house or garage, 
you can build a rain barrel to gather water for your garden. To find 
a barrel, check with companies that buy bulk food ingredients. Some 
of their supplies come in large plastic containers. Scrub the inside 
thoroughly with soap and water to remove any residues. Because 
they're often hard to clean, barrels that contained motor oil or 
fuel products don't make good rain barrels. If you can't locate a 
barrel, substitute a large plastic garbage can.

Level the area for your barrel with a spade and set the concrete 
blocks in place. Place the barrel on the blocks. Hold the new elbow 
on top of the barrel against the downspout. The bottom of the new 
piece should reach just above the barrel - an inch or so. Mark the 
existing downspout where you'll cut it off. Set the barrel and the 
elbow aside and measure down 2 inches from the pencil mark on the 
downspout. That'll allow room for the old downspout to fit into the 
elbow securely. Use the hacksaw to cut off the old downspout. Fit 
the new elbow over the end of the downspout and fasten it in place 
with sheet metal screws or pop rivets. 

Drill a _-inch hole in the barrel wall high enough to allow you to 
place a bucket underneath. Squeeze caulk around the hole on both 
sides. Assemble the spigot and coupling, wrapping a piece of Teflon 
tape on each threaded section to form a tight seal. Slip on a washer 
and poke the threaded end of the coupling through the hole from the 
outside. On the inside of the barrel put a washer over the pipe and 
fasten everything together with the bushing.

A couple of inches down from the top of the barrel drill another _-
inch hole for the overflow valve. Squeeze some caulk around the 
hole, inside and out, and place a washer on the hose adapter and 
push it through the hole. On the inside slip on a washer and Teflon 
tape and tighten everything together with the lock nut. With a 
garden hose connected to this safety valve, you can direct some of 
the overflow after a heavy rain out into the garden.

If your barrel has a lid, cut a hole in it where the new downspout 
elbow will drain into it. Cover the hole with a small piece of 
screen. If there is no lid, lay a large piece of window screen over 
the top. You can leave the barrel uncovered, but you'll find that 
open water is irresistible to mosquitoes.

Set the barrel on the concrete blocks, make sure the downspout will 
direct the water properly and sit back and wait for rain.
Materials and Tools:
Materials:
1 clean 30-to 55-gallon barrel
or garbage can
1 "S"-shaped elbow with pop 
rivets or sheet metal screws
2-3 concrete blocks
1 piece of window screen
1 spigot with _-in. pipe threads
and a 1-in. standard hose fitting
1 _-in. x _-in. coupling
1 _-in. x «-in. bushing
1 _-in. pipe thread with a 1-in.
hose adapter
1 _-in. lock nut
4 metal washers
1 roll Teflon tape
1 tube silicon caulk

Tools:
Hacksaw, screwdriver or pop rivet gun, drill, pencil, ruler, spade, 
level, adjustable wrench.

Make sure to take pics and show us what you did!!


tenzicut

Subj: {OHG} Books on Storage 
From:    tenzicut@yahoo.com (tenzicut)


A YEAR'S SUPPLY;  Barry G. & Lynette B. Crockett;  1988;  ISBN#
0-915131-88-9;  Available form the author at P.O. Box 1601, Orem, Utah
84057 and available in some stores.  Publisher's Press.

BOOK OF TOFU, THE;  William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi;  1975;
ISBN#0-345-35181-9;  Ballantine Books.

BUILD YOUR ARK!  Book 1: Food Self-Sufficiency;  Geri Guidetti; 1996;
ISBN# 0-938928-01-5;  Published by the author; The Ark Institute, P.O.
Box 142, Oxford, Ohio 45056; http://www.arkinstitute.com;  E-mail to
arkinst@concentric.net

COOKIN' WITH POWDERED MILK and COOKIN' WITH POWDERED EGGS;  Peggy
Layton;  Both 1994;  No ISBN;  Available from the author P.O. Box 44,
Manti, Utah, 84682.

COOKIN' WITH HOME STORAGE;  Vicki Tate; 1993;  ISBN# none; Published 
by
the author; Address: 302 East 200 North, Manti, Utah, 84642; Tel # 
(801)
835-8283

COUNTRY BEANS;  Rita Bingham;  1996;  ISBN 1-882314-10-7; Published by
Natural Meals In Minutes  30500 SE Jackson Rd, Gresham, OR 97080.

CREATING THE COMPLETE FOOD STORAGE PROGRAM;  Skipper Clark;  1996; No
ISBN;  Available from the author, Sierra Sun Publishing, P.O. Box 
6209,
Oroville, CA 95966

HOME FOOD SYSTEMS;  Edited by Roger B. Yepsen, Jr.;  1981; ISBN#
0-87857-325-9;  Rodale Press.

HOW TO DEVELOP A LOW-COST FAMILY FOOD-STORAGE SYSTEM;  Anita
Evangelista;  1995;  ISBN 1-55950-130-8;  Loompanics Unlimited.

HOW TO DRY FOODS;  Deanna DeLong;  1992;  ISBN 1-55788-050-6;  HP 
Books

KEEPING FOOD FRESH;  Janet Bailey;  1985;  ISBN# 0-385-27675-3;
Doubleday & Co.

KEEPING THE HARVEST;  Chioffi and Mead;  1991;  ISBN# 0-88266-650-9;
Storey Communications.

LIVING WELL ON WHEAT;  Geri Guidetti;  1997;  ISBN 0-938928-02-3;
Published by the author;  The Ark Institute, P.O. Box 142, Oxford, 
Ohio
45056; http://www.arkinstitute.com ;  E-mail arkinst@concentric.net

MAKING THE BEST OF BASICS - FAMILY PREPAREDNESS HANDBOOK; James T.
Stevens; 1996; ISBN #1-882723-25-2; Gold Leaf Press  or from the 
author:
15123 Little Wren Lane, San Antonio, TX 78255; E-mail
jstevens@iamerica.net

MARLENE'S MAGIC WITH FOOD STORAGE;  Marlene Petersen; 1991; No ISBN;
Published by the author;  Marlene's Magic,  4958 Alpine Circle 
Highland,
Utah 84003

NUTRIENT CONTENT OF THE U.S. FOOD SUPPLY, 1909-1988;  1992; Nutrient
Education Division;  Human Nutrition Information Service of the USDA.

NUTRITIVE VALUE OF AMERICAN FOODS;  Catherine S. Adams; 1975; No ISBN;
USDA Handbook No. 456

PERMACULTURE BOOK OF FERMENT & HUMAN NUTRITION, THE;  Bill Mollison;
1993;  ISBN 0-908228-06-6;  Tagari Publications

PUTTING FOOD BY;  Greene, Hertzberg and Vaughn; 1982 (14th edition);
ISBN# 0-525-93342-5; Penguin Group.

RECOMMENDED DIETARY ALLOWANCES (The RDA Book);  National Research
Council;  1989(10th edition);  ISBN 0-309-046335 (paper); National
Academy Press

ROOT CELLARING (1994);  Mike and Nancy Bubel;  ISBN 0-88266-703-3.

TOFU & SOYFOODS COOKERY;  Peter Golbitz;  1998;  ISBN 1-57067-050-1;
Book Publishing Company;  P.O. Box 99, Summertown, TN   38483

WHOLE GRAINS;  Sara Pitzer;  1981; ISBN #0-88266-251-1; Garden Way 
Books


B.  PAMPHLETS:

Consumer Information Center, Department EE, Pueblo CO 81009.  Ask for
the Consumer Mailing List Catalog.  You can order those nifty USDA
pamphlets from this catalog.

Check your extension service office for pamphlets, which can usually 
be
bought for a dollar or so.  Especially important for high altitude
canning, getting recipes specific for locale, even information on U-
Pick
sites and local farmers' markets.

Controlling Indianmeal Moths in Stored Shelled Corn and Soybeans; Phil
Harein and Bh. Subramanyam; FS-0996-A-GO Revised 1990 Minnesota
Extension Service, University of Minnesota

FOOD STOCKPILING FOR EMERGENCY SHELTERS;  Food and Materials Division,
Commodity Stabilization Service, USDA, April 1961]

Food Storage In The Home FN502;  Utah State University Cooperative
Extension Service Bulletin

Frequently Asked Food Questions FN 250;  1993 Utah State University
Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin

Molds And Mycotoxins In Feeds; C.M. Christensen, C.J. Mirocha, R.A.
Meronuck; FO-3538-C-GO 1988; Minnesota Extension Service, University 
of
Minnesota

Molds In Grain Storage; Richard A. Meronuck;  FO-0564-C-GO; Revised
1987;  Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota

Nonfat Dry Milk FN142;  Utah State University Cooperative Extension
Service Bulletin

Use of Oxygen Absorbers in Dry Pack Canning; Albert E. Purcell, 
Theodore
C. Barber, John Hal Johnson;  Benson Quality Assurance Laboratory
Department of Food Science, Brigham Young University


C.  MAGAZINES:

American Survival Guide
P.O. Box 68033
Anaheim, CA   92817-0833
(714) 693-1866

Backwoods Home Magazine.  Dave Duffy, publisher.
P.O. Box 712
Gold Beach, OR  97444
(541) 247-8900
http://www.backwoodshome.com

Countryside & Small Stock Journal
N2601 Winter Sports Rd,
Withee, Wisconsin 54498
(800) 551-5691

Mother Earth News
P.O. Box 56302
Boulder, CO   80322-6302
(303) 678-0439


tenzicut


For those of you who can have them; we're too close to the water table to be
able to build one.
-------------------------------------------
A Root Cellar for Your Homestead

Long before the first light bulb, "miraculously" illuminated our lives
almost everyone owned a root cellar. The root cellar kept apples, carrots,
turnips, potatoes and squash, through the winter, sustaining the family
through those cold and bleak months. Salt pork
and smoked meats, milk, cream, butter and cheese were also kept in the root
cellar to stay cool and fresh, ready for use. It is thought that the first
root cellars originated in the United Kingdom before colonial times.
Immigrants then brought with them their country skills, including the
functional and practical root cellar.

An earth-friendly, root cellar is the natural choice for the homesteader,
whether or not you're, "on the grid." The low-tech root cellar will keep
your harvest fresh for two months or longer, depending on what you store,
without ozone-depleting refrigeration
or electricity. In addition to the above mentioned foods, you can store your
canned tomatoes, peaches, pears, green beans, peas, fish and meat --- in
fact, any type of canned foods--- in your root cellar. They will provide a
pleasing array of natural colors, the result of a summer's hard work and
patience all neatly lined up on shelves.

There are several types of root cellar and different ways in which to
construct one. There's the Hatch Cellar, Hillside Cellar and the Above
Ground Cellar.

The Hatch Cellar usually consists of a large hole dug into the ground then
lined with rocks. The floor is left in its natural state, just plain dirt.
Beams and plywood sheets are securely laid over the hole, with a hatch door
incorporated into the ceiling/floor, along with the installation of a ladder
for safe and easy access. A shed is then built over the top of the cellar,
overlapping the walls by about three feet each side.

The Hillside Cellar is dug out of a hillside, lined with rocks, and then a
plywood ceiling is attached to overhead support beams. This type of cellar
has a regular insulated door to walk through.

The Above Ground Cellar is made from a wood frame, covered thickly with sod
on the outside, lined inside with rocks, with a regular insulated door at
the front. Shelves are installed in each type of cellar, three inches away
from the walls, to allow air to circulate freely and inhibit the growth of
molds. An exhaust pipe is installed through the ceiling to allow hot air to
escape from the cellar. Installation of an intake pipe ensures fresh, cold
air to enter, forcing the hot air to escape from the exhaust pipe. You must
try to maintain an ideal temperature and humidity ratio to provide optimum
freshness for your bountiful
harvest.

Humidity is a major factor in your root cellar, whatever type you decide to
install. Humidity will vary, depending on which part of the world you're
located. If you're located in the arid, southwestern area of the United
States for instance, you will experience high temperatures and low humidity.
This will need adjusting with a pan of
water on the floor of your cellar and possibly damp towels over your bushel
baskets, to raise the humidity and prevent your harvest from shriveling. If,
on the other hand, you live in the tropical regions of Australia, you will
be faced with both high temperatures and high humidity. These extremes call
for a deep, insulated root cellar with steps leading down to an insulated
entrance door. As most of the harvest in your root cellar will stay fresh in
moderate temperatures and humidity it will spoil quickly, given too high
temperatures and humidity.

Preparing your Harvest for the Root Cellar

FRUITS AND ETHYLENE GAS

Fruits like apples, plums, pears, peaches and tomatoes release ethylene gas
in storage, and while small amounts will not affect other stored foods; it
speeds their aging process, and makes some vegetables like carrots, bitter.
To store fruit successfully, only pick the best of the bunch; neither too
ripe, nor under ripe. Use the bruised fruits for sauces and for stewing or
fruit salad. Wrap individually, each piece of fruit and place carefully in
cardboard or wooden boxes. An alternative method would be to bury the fruit
in boxes filled with sand. Be gentle, as one bad apple will spoil the whole
bunch!

IN GARDEN, EXTENDED STORAGE

Mulching root vegetables thickly with pine needles, straw or other suitable
mulching materials whilst they're still in the garden, will stop them from
freezing and keep them for up to a month. At which time, such veggies as
carrots, can be transferred to your root cellar.

POTATOES

When the green tops on your potatoes die off, the potatoes can be harvested.
If you are experiencing hot weather at this time, you may want to keep them
in the ground for a few weeks longer, until temperatures go down to 60-70F.
The potatoes can then be dug up and cured in the shade for two weeks. Do not
cure in the sun, as this will produce toxic, solanines (nightshade). This
will turn your tubers green, and harmful to eat-especially for babies and
pregnant or nursing moms; so please cure in shade only. Just remove excess
dirt from the potatoes, as a layer of dirt helps extend their life; on NO
account, wash them! When your potatoes are cured, you can move them to the
root cellar. They keep best with high humidity of 90%, in a temperature of
38-40F. This temperature slows respiration, delay their sprouting, and will
ensure the starch doesn't convert to sugar.
Store them in a bin or a pile covered with straw or burlap-NOT plastic, to
stop water condensing on the potatoes. These potatoes will now keep from
four to six months in your handy root cellar.

PUMPKINS

Pumpkins should be harvested with a few inches of stem attached to help
prevent pathogens from entering the pumpkin through the cut scar. Pumpkins
should be left to sit outside for a few days to harden their shells. They
will then be ready for the cellar. 65-70% humidity is perfect for these
vegetables and cool temperatures, above freezing
are ideal. Your pumpkins will now keep for up to six months.

ONIONS AND GARLIC

Onions and garlic are ready to pull out of your garden, when the tops are
dead and brown. They need to be cured, however, by tying or braiding their
tops together, and hanging them up outside to cure. The porch or a handy
tree can be used to serve this purpose. A few weeks of curing and they will
be ready to hang up in your root cellar
or somewhere cool-ideally 60-70% humidity with a temperature of 35-40F.

APPROXIMATE STORAGE TIMES:

Cabbage.......3-4 months
Brussels Sprouts.....3-5 weeks
Jerusalem Artichokes..1-2 months
Carrots........4-6 months
Chinese Cabbage...1-2 months
Eggplant........1-2 weeks
Parsnips........1-2 months
Rutabagas......2-4 months
Squash........4-6months
Radishes........2-3 months
Tomatoes.......1-2 months
Cauliflower......2-4 weeks
Broccoli.........1-2 weeks
Beets........4-5 months
Pumpkins......5-6 months
Potatoes.........4-6 months
Turnips.......4-6 months

Although the above stated storage times are approximate, check periodically
for spoilage.

Written by Victoria Ries a2001, All Rights Reserved
Blackberry canes tip root very easily. Get some pots and fill with 
good soil, then peg the tips of the canes down into the soil. In a 
fairly short time, they should make roots and you can cut them away 
from the parent plant.

This works well with raspberries also. And other thorn fruits. Even roses.
I do that with on anything that has a cane and stickers. 
Although most horticulturists and plant breeders do not recommend 
home gardeners grow their own seed, it's a definite fact that seeds 
of many vegetables grown under garden conditions will generally prove 
satisfactory for later planting. They become adapted to your own 
soil and climate, and most times will out produce those you purchase 
commercially.

The seedmen don't want you to save your own, just buy theirs'.

Raising and saving seed is obviously not for everyone. The gardener 
whose only aim is to grow a few backyard vegetables is certainly not 
interested. 

That gardener to whom the height of adventure is trying a new variety 
will certainly back away. 

But the avid gardener who enjoys a challenge, who likes to try 
something different, who wonders about the "why" of how plants grow; 
this person should probably try raising and saving their own garden 
seed. There will be failures, problems and disappointments, but these 
will only make successes that much sweeter. 

Gardeners will face discouraging arguments about raising their own 
seed, both in what they read and from conversations with other 
gardeners and horticulturists. These precautions and arguments should 
be heeded and close attention paid to some of the obvious pitfalls, 
such as:

1. You shouldn't save seed from hybrid vegetables because they won't 
produce true in the next generation. This is indeed a fact. To 
understand this completely, you must understand what a F-1 hybrid is.

The simplest way to define an F-1 hybrid is to take an example. Let 
us say a plant breeder observes a particularly good habit in a plant, 
but with poor flower color, and in another plant of the same type he 
sees good color but poor habit. The best plant of each type is then 
taken and self-pollinated (in isolation) each year and, each year, 
the seed is re-sown. Eventually, every time the seed is sown the same 
identical plants will appear. When they do, this is known as a 'pure 
line.' 

If the breeder now takes the pure line of each of the two plants he 
originally selected and cross pollinates the two by hand the result 
is known as an F-1 hybrid. Plants are grown from seed produced and 
the result of this cross pollination should have a good habit and 
good color.

Plants grown commercially for mass sale, generally have the same 
variety of that particular crop. Even in hybrids, most likely saved 
seed will come back somewhat true to type with the added plus of 
being adapted to your own soil and growing conditions. And each year 
you save seed from a particular variety, it will keep improving until 
it adapts to soil, climate, temp extremes, and maybe even the sound 
of your voice and tlc you give them. This isn't true in all cases, 
but under correct practices, you can count on almost a 50% chance of 
getting exactly the same plant as the hybrid you grew: just one step 
better. (Based on Jon's experiments over 40+ years.)

This is the simplest form of hybridization; there are complications, 
of course. A completely pure line can sometimes take seven or eight 
years to achieve. Sometimes, a pure line is made up of several 
previous crossings to begin to build in desirable features and grown 
on until it is true before use in hybridization.

To summarize, a F-1 hybrid is the result of crossing two pure lines 
to achieve the desired result. This seems a lot of trouble to go to 
but there are definite advantages. Scientific and accurate breeding 
programs have made it possible not only to bring out the outstanding 
qualities of the parent plants, but in most cases these qualities 
have been enhanced and new desirable characteristics added to the 
resultant hybrid plants. In addition to qualities like good vigor, 
trueness to type, heavy yields and high uniformity which hybrid 
plants enjoy, other characteristics such as earliness, disease 
resistance and good holding ability have been incorporated into most 
F-1 hybrids. 

Not taste!

Uniform plant habit and maturity, coupled with uniformity in shape or 
size have made hybrid vegetables extremely suitable for mechanical 
harvesting, and shipping vast miles away from the growing areas.

We can't expect to get all these advantages for nothing. Because 
creating F-1 hybrids involves many years of preparation to create 
pure lines and these pure lines have to be constantly maintained so 
that the F seed can be harvested each year, seed is more expensive. 
The problem is compounded because to ensure that no self pollination 
takes place, all the hybridizing of the two pure lines sometimes has 
to be done by hand. So you often have to pay more for your seed or 
get fewer in a packet. Seed is often collected by hand too to ensure 
that each plant is as productive as possible. 

And, it's possible for you to create your own F-1 F-2 or even F-900 
hybrid.

With heirloom varieties anyone can grow them and collect the seed 
which can then be re-sown in your garden or, on a larger scale, 
traded or sold. In most instances, these old varieties aren't fit for 
shipping, nor can they be readily trucked cross country without being 
destroy.

Taste suffers when heirlooms aren't grown.

A plant breeder who puts a lot of work into creating a variety which 
is not an F-1 hybrid can soon find someone else selling it and 
getting a share of the financial reward. But seed collected from a F 
1 hybrid will not produce plants exactly the same as those from which 
it is collected. Only by crossing the pure lines can that exact 
variety be made - and only the original breeder has the necessary 
pure lines.

These are advantages for the plant breeders. 

However, there are many open-pollinated varieties of vegetables that 
were growing successfully long before the hybrids came along and 
which can be duplicated by saving seed. 

2. It is difficult for the home gardener to isolate varieties and 
strains to avoid unwanted cross-pollination. Cross-pollination can be 
a major problem if the gardener works in the midst of many other 
gardens where he has no control over what is being grown around him.

Like in a community garden, or in the City with other gardens close 
at hand.

3. Unwanted cross-pollination and faulty selection of parent plants 
result in the gradual deterioration or "running out" of the seed. If 
you still want to try your hand at growing some seed at home, then 
ordinary cultural practices necessary for the production of good 
quality home grown vegetables are usually adequate for seed 
production. In fact, the seed saved are by- products of the 
vegetables planted for table use.

In the case of seed saving, a part of the row or maybe a few plants 
in the row are tagged as those to be allowed to produce seed. The 
vegetables of designated plants will be allowed to remain until 
mature on the plant.

Extreme care should be taken to prevent mixing of varieties. For 
example, if you want to save squash seed, then plant only one type of 
squash in your garden. You should also realize that there are some 
vegetables that are not valuable or practical for saving seed such as 
carrots, beets, radishes and mustard, according to the professionals.

But early day gardeners saved any and all seed for they weren't 
available at the corner farm store during pioneer days. Often, seed 
was used like money is today.

Following are some simple directions on how to save seed from some of 
the most commonly grown garden vegetables:

BEANS (all kinds)- Allow the seed to thoroughly mature on the plant, 
usually indicated by size of the seed in the pod or by the color of 
the pod. Pull the entire plant early in the morning and place it in 
the shade to dry out. This will prevent the pods from splitting open 
and the beans from shattering. 

CUCUMBERS - Cross pollination occurs in cucumbers. This means pollen 
is transferred from a plant of one variety to a plant of another 
variety. This is done by insects. Although it does not affect the 
fruit borne this season, if you save the seed and plant them next 
year, the plants that come from these seeds will be different. So 
will the fruit. So, if you want to save cucumber seed, plant only one 
variety. Select strong, healthy cucumber plants and well-formed 
fruits. Let the fruits hang on the vine until ripe (skin becomes 
yellowish and hard). Then handle like the process for tomatoes given 
below.

EGGPLANT - When the eggplant fruit has obtained maximum size and 
shows some evidence of browning and shriveling, it is ready to be 
harvested for seed. Split open, remove the seed and wash thoroughly 
to remove all pulp. Spread out in the sun to dry quickly as moist 
seed will begin to germinate overnight if left in a damp condition. 
Store in a cool, dry place. 

OKRA - Okra pods should be left on the stalk until brown and well 
matured. Remove the pods and place them in the shade until thoroughly 
dried. Although the seed may be removed from the pod, it is generally 
best to store them in the pod until ready for planting at which time 
the pods may be split open and the seed removed. Pods harvested too 
green will not store well and are likely to split, shattering the 
seed. 

You can string okra pods like you do peppers and keep near your cook 
stove, or in your attic close to the chimney as did early american 
farmers and gardeners who HAD to grow their own food or trade what 
they had for things they needed. There was little actual money in the 
early days.

PEPPERS - Pepper should be allowed to ripen until they become red. 
Cut the pepper pod in half and scrape the seed from a cavity onto a 
piece of paper. Spread out the seed and dry thoroughly before placing 
in a storage container.

SOUTHERN PEAS - Southern peas should be left on the plant until 
thoroughly matured, usually indicated by a browning of the pods. The 
pods should be picked, spread out in a dry area and cured for a week 
or two, then shelled.

SQUASH - If seed are to be saved from squash, grow only one variety 
in the garden. When the outer covering of the squash has become 
hardened, the seed are generally mature. Split the squash fruit open, 
scoop out the seed and wash until all pulp is removed. Spread out on 
newspaper to dry.

TOMATOES - Allow the tomato fruit to thoroughly ripen on the vine. 
Cut the tomatoes open and remove the seed by squeezing or spooning 
out the pulp with seeds into a non-metal container such as a drinking 
glass or jar. Set the container aside for one or two days. The pulp 
and seed covering will ferment so that the seeds can be washed clean 
with a directed spray of water into the fermented solution. The 
clean, viable seeds will drop to the bottom of the solution, allowing 
the sediment to poured off. Several rinsings may be necessary. Then 
spread the tomato seed out on a cloth or paper towel to dry. After 
seed are dry, package, label and date for storage in a cool 
(refrigerator), dry location.

Who knows - - maybe you will produce a super vegetable which will 
prevent world hunger.


As if you did not have enough to do in the garden at this time of 
the year, I thought that I might spark your interest in a hobby that 
has been in existence for thousands of years and has recently made 
quite a comeback. Saving seeds from plants that you have grown can 
be quite rewarding, very educational, and most of all, fun!

There are a multitude of reasons why home gardeners are interested 
in saving seeds. One of the most common reasons is that many 
gardeners, worldwide, are striving to be self-sufficient. A huge 
undertaking in the process of self-sufficiency is to grow your own 
food. By collecting seed to replant the following season, you are 
taking it one step further.

On that same note, it is very rewarding to be involved in the 
entire ''circle of life'' in your garden. The glory of harvesting a 
bounty of food from a few packets of seeds is truly indescribable. 
Imagine how much more fulfilling it is to collect the seed and make 
the circle complete!

A major concern in the seed world today deals with multinational 
corporations buying out family-owned seed companies. Along with 
these takeovers, comes the loss of several unique open-pollinated 
varieties that are replaced with standard, easy-to-produce hybrids. 
According to Suzanne Ashworth, author of Seed to Seed, from 1984-
1987 the closure of 54 mail-order seed companies resulted in over 
940 open-pollinated plant varieties to become unavailable. In order 
to preserve the diversity in seed varieties, it is essential that 
both family-owned seed companies and the home gardener continue to 
produce and save these seeds. The result: a wealth of good-tasting, 
nutritious food that we can enjoy and pass down to future 
generations.

This ''passing down'' notion can be applied from season to season, 
too. For example, many people will save the seed of a particular 
variety that is well suited for their climate type or because a 
variety is resistant to certain diseases. By saving the seed, the 
desirable traits can be utilized season after season.

And let us not forget the joy of sharing these wonderful varieties 
with our fellow gardeners. Chances are, if you are enthused about a 
specific variety that you grow, other people will be enthused, as 
well. What a great way to promote the diversity of garden plants! So 
how do you find fellow seed savers? Seed Savers Exchange, an 
organization that has been around since 1975, does a tremendous 
amount of work in linking seed savers and seed companies to rare, 
unique, and heirloom varieties of seeds. I have belonged to them and 
well worth it.
You can contact Seed Savers Exchange at:
3076 North Wimm Rd.
Decorah, Iowa 52101 
Ph. (319) 382-5990
Fax (319) 382-5872

How To Save Seeds?
The answer to this question is actually quite complex. There are 
numerous ways to save seed and oftentimes the methods are dependent 
on the type of seed that you wish to save. 

Hybrid vs. Open-Pollinated vs. Heirloom
Some of the most common misconceptions that our customer service 
representatives deal with are the definitions of ''hybrid'', ''open-
pollinated'', and ''heirloom''. These are terms that are related to 
seed saving so we thought that now is a good time to set things 
straight.

Hybrid-By definition, a hybrid is the offspring of two parents that 
differ in one or more heritable characteristics. There seems to be a 
lot of negative connotations to hybrids but in actuality, hybrids 
can often times benefit the gardener. For example, say that there is 
a tomato that tastes great but is very susceptible to a certain 
disease. By hybridizing the good tasting tomato with a highly 
disease resistant tomato, it is possible to have the best of both 
worlds. Often times, hybrids are also more vigorous than their open-
pollinated counterparts. The problem that occurs when seed saving is 
that seeds collected from a hybrid variety will revert back to one 
of the parents or in a few cases may be sterile. Using the tomato 
example, if you collected the seeds from the ''good tasting/disease 
resistant'' hybrid, those seeds would either not germinate or they 
would grow to be either the ''good tasting'' parent variety or 
the ''disease resistant'' parent variety. A final note on 
hybrids...the terms ''hybrid'' and ''genetically engineered'' are 
not necessarily synonymous. Often times, hybrids occur from an 
insect cross-pollinating two different varieties or from a 
horticulturist hand-pollinating two different varieties. The way new 
species develop is through natural hybridization.

Open-Pollinated-As opposed to a hybrid, an open-pollinated seed is 
produced by crossing two parents from the same variety, which in 
turn produces offspring just like the parents. Seeds collected from 
an open-pollinated variety will grow true to the plant that the 
seeds were collected from. With this in mind, it is important to 
choose open-pollinated varieties when saving seed.

Heirloom-An heirloom variety is open-pollinated and has been passed 
down from generation to generation. There is no standard length of 
time that the variety needs to be ''in existence'' to be called an 
heirloom but usually 40 years is sufficient.

***A note on ''organic''-Any of the above mentioned seed types 
(hybrid, open-pollinated and heirloom) can be organic but do not 
have to be. The term organic strictly refers to the growing 
practices that occur in the production of the plant.

Resources to Get You Started 
Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth. The complete seed saving guide for 
160 vegetable crops, with detailed information about each vegetable. 
Botanical classification, flower structure, pollination method, 
isolation distances, caging, and hand pollination techniques are all 
part of this informative book. Plus, you'll learn about harvesting, 
drying, cleaning and storing seeds. Paperback, 224 pages.

How to Save Your Own Vegetable Seeds from Seeds of Diversity-Canada. 
Learn how to preserve your favorite family heirlooms as well as your 
modern day favorites. This book will teach you how to save your own 
vegetable seed, which can help you become more independent. 
Paperback, 33 pages.

The New Seed Starters Handbook by Nancy Bubel. We haven't seen a 
more thorough and practical book on this topic. Complete with over 
100 pages that give instruction on starting 200 of the most common 
plants from seed. There is also an entire section devoted to saving 
seeds. A very complete work that would be a welcome addition to many 
gardeners¡ libraries. Paperback, 385 pages.

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades by Steve Solomon. Bushels of 
information are included in this classic. This book offers a 
comprehensive course in preparing and maintaining a vegetable garden 
on any scale. An extensive section listing dozens of vegetables 
tells how and where to grow and harvest varieties best suited to the 
maritime climate, as well as how to save seed from these vegetables.

The easiest vegetables to learn to save seed from is:

Bean - Bean flowers are self-pollinating and almost never cross-
pollinate. As a precaution never plant two white seeded varieties 
side-by-side if you intend to save seed because crossing may occur 
but not be visible. It is always best to save seed from plants that 
ripen first and are free from disease. Harvest seed pods when 
completely dry, crush in a cloth or burlap sack and winnow the seeds 
from the chaff. Seed Life usually 3 years.

Corn - All corn varieties are wind-pollinated and will cross-
pollinate with each other. Varieties should be hand-pollinated or 
isolated by 1 mile to ensure purity. To avoid inbreeding, save seed 
from at least 25 different plants. Allow ears to dry on plants, 
harvest and shell. Seed life usually 1 year.

Leek - Biennial. Leeks will not cross-pollinate. Select only the 
best bulbs to keep for seed. Bulbs will store very well at 32 
degrees F. In milder areas they can be mulched heavily and 
overwintered in the garden. Plant out leek bulbs in early spring and 
allow them to form seedheads. As soon as the seedheads start to dry, 
they should be cut off. Place seedheads in a dry shaded area and 
allow to dry completely. Seeds can be easily removed by rubbing 
seedheads between hands. Seed life usually 1 year.

Lettuce - There is only a slight chance of cross-pollination 
between lettuces. As a precaution separate by 25' from other 
varieties that are going to seed. Allow plants to bolt and form seed 
stalks. Bag bolting stalks to avoid bird damage and to keep any rain 
off the seeds. Seeds are produced over a 2-3 week period and will 
require repeated picking. Seed lasts approximentaly 5 years.

Pepper - Peppers will cross-pollinate, so separate by at least 500' 
or plant in insect-proof cages covered with screen. Select peppers 
that are ripe, fully colored and show no signs of disease. Scrape 
seeds off the core and onto a paper plate to dry. Make sure to label 
each plate. Seeds are viable for 3-5 years.

Tomato - Cross-pollination between modern tomato varieties seldom 
occurs, except in potato leaf varieties ("Stupice" is one) which 
should be separated by the length of the garden. Do not save seeds 
from double fruits or from the first fruits of large fruited 
varieties. Pick at least one fruit from each of several plants. 
Squeeze seeds and juice into a strainer and wash, spread on a paper 
plate and dry. Usual seed life.. 3 years.

tenzicut

Info taken from my brain, SSE, Territorial seeds



A F2 hybrid is a second-generation cross between two F1 hybrids.
Some hybrids are sterile and it is impossible to get seed from them,
while other hybrids are self- fertile.

True species x Hybrid = F2 hybrid with inconsistent characteristics.

Hybrid x Self (own pollen) = F2 hybrid with inconsistent
characteristics.

Hybrid x same Hybrid = F2 hybrid with inconsistent characteristics.

An F1 hybrid gives hybrid vigour and an F2 hybrid the most variable
offspring which diminishes as the number of the F increases. Seed
obtained from above can produce some remarkable plants, but a large
percentage of them are weak and therefore not worth growing.

F1 hybrid - is the first generation of a cross between any two
unrelated seedlines in the creation of a
hybrid. F1 hybrids can be uniform or variable depending on the P1
parent stock used.

F2 hybrid - is the offspring of a cross between two F1 plants

Hope that was not too confusing

tenzicut
From:   topper2@juno.com 
Date:  Mon Sep 15, 2003  3:25 pm
Subject:  Re: {OHG}Seed tape
 
A tip for anyone that plants 'square foot' style... using paper towels
and setting up your seeds on the squares of towel to corresponds with the
squares of your plot makes it a breeze to lay everything out in the
spring. If you are companion planting you can also arrange your seeds on
your towel squares just the way you like. For example Broccoli in the
center surrounded by leaf lettuces mixed with Radish. You lay out the
square the seeds start sprouting, you pick your radishes, lettuces keep
growing and you start picking those.. by the time they're spent and gone
your broccoli has the space that it needs.

Another gadget that I had was a square sheet of wood that had dowels
sticking out of it... different squares for different spaces between the
seeds... Water your soil. Set your 'divot maker' on the surface of the
soil and press. All your seed divots are perfectly spaced and the perfect
depth... then just drop in the seeds and lightly sprinkle with water and
apply a light mulch and sprinkle a bit again.... Another way to make seed
planting a breeze. A friend suggested a gadget be put on the top of the
divot maker so that you could turn in a broom handle.. that way you don't
have to bend over to do the divot holes.... just grab your divot maker
boards and start marking all the squares and then go bag with your seeds
and start dropping them... then sprinkle, mulch, sprinkle... 

Saves on thinning too! 
Subj: {OHG} How long will this keep? 
From:    tenzicut@yahoo.com (tenzicut)

SHELF LIVES OF SOME COMMON STORAGE FOODS.

     The chart given below has been adapted from a number of different
shelf-life charts published by the cooperative extension services of
several states.  It presupposes no special packagings other than the 
way
the food comes from the store.  The general assumption is that when a
given foods' taste, appearance or texture begin to take on noticeable
changes it has reached the end of its best marketable shelf life and
should be rotated out.  This is not to say the food is no longer 
edible,
but it is losing nutritional content at the same time so no purpose is
served by keeping it for longer than is necessary to replace it with
fresher stock.  For what it's worth, I'm not fully in agreement with 
it
myself, but it's a good working hypothesis and I modify it by my
personal experience which may vary from yours.  If it is a dry food 
then
only dry utensils should be used to remove it from its container.  The
less light, moisture, heat and oxygen it comes into contact with, the
longer the food will keep.


         All of the below are for new, unopened containers.

                         RECOMMENDED
                         STORAGE TIME
FOOD                     AT 70 deg. F.                 STORAGE
TIPS                                               Keep the product:
======================================================================
=

Baking powder.................Till can date......Sealed & bone dry
Baking soda.....................2 years..........Sealed & bone dry
Biscuit, brownie, muffin mix....9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
Bouillon, cubes or granules.....2 years..........Sealed, cool and dry
Cake mixes, regular.............9 months.........Sealed, cool and dry
            angel food..........1 year...........Sealed, cool and dry
Canned  metal can, non-acidic...2 years..........Cool
food,  metal can, acidic.....12-18 months.......Cool
        glass jars.............2-3 years.........Dark and cool
Chocolate, semi-sweet
   or  unsweetened.............18 months.........Cool and dark
Chocolate syrup.................2 years..........Cool & tightly sealed
Cocoa, powder or mixes..........8 months.........Sealed and cool
Coffee, regular.................2 years..........Cool, dry and sealed
        instant................1-2 years.........Sealed
Coffee creamers, powdered.......9 months.........Sealed and cool
Cornmeal........................1 year...........Guard against weevils
Cornstarch.....................18 months.........Dry
Crackers........................3 months.........Dry
Flour, white...................8-12 months.......Guard against weevils
       whole wheat.............6-8 months........Cool and weevil proof
Frostings, canned...............3 months.........Cool
           mix..................8 months.........Dry and cool
Fruits, dried..................6-12 months.......Cool & sealed
Gelatin, all types.............18 months.........Protect from moisture
Grains, whole...................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Hominy & hominy grits...........1 year...........Guard against weevils
Honey...........................1 year...........Sealed
Jellies, jams, preserves........1 year...........Refrigerate after use
Molasses & syrups...............1 year...........Sealed
Mayonnaise......................6 months.........Refrigerate after use
Milk, condensed or
      evaporated................1 year...........Turn over every 2 mos
      Non-fat dry...............6 months.........Bone dry and cool
Nuts, vacuum canned.............1 year...........Cool and dark
      other packaging...........3 months.........Cool and dark
      in shell..................4 months.........Cool, dry and dark
Pancake mix....................6-9 months........Dry and weevil proof
Pastas
(macaroni, noodles, etc).......2 years..........Guard against weevils
Peanut butter..................6-9 months........Sealed, cool, dark
Peas and beans, dry
(not soybeans).................2 years..........Dry and weevil proof
Potatoes, instant..............6-12 months.......Dry and weevil proof
Pudding mixes...................1 year...........Cool and very dry
Rice, white.....................2+ years.........Guard against weevils
     brown.....................3-6 months........Cool and weevil proof
     flavored or herb...........6 months.........Sealed & weevil proof
Salad dressings...............10-12 months.......Refrigerate after use
Salad oils......................6 months.........Sealed, dark and cool
Sauce and gravy mixes..........6-12 months.......Cool and dry
Shortening, solid...............1 year...........Dark
Soup mixes......................1 year...........Cool and dry
Sugar, brown....................6 months.........Airtight container
       confectioners...........18 months.........Dry and sealed
       granulated...............2+years..........Dry
Syrups (corn syrup based)......8-12 months.......Sealed and cool
Tea, bags......................18 months.........Sealed and dry
     instant....................3 years..........Sealed
     loose......................2 years..........Sealed and dry
Vegetables, dried...............1 year...........Cool and sealed
Vinegar.........................2+ years.........Sealed
Yeast (dry)...............Pkg expiration date....Cool and dry

tenzicut


Simple Gardening

Its funny.
When I first started my gardens up here in N.Y. 
zone 5b, I had many insects. The first year Colorado 
tater beetles took out my taters en mass. Swarms of them
descended. Now no more bad buggies. 

And it was because I made the soils live again. Through 
lots of tlc, and organic compost. Manures, green sand help 
tremendously.  I get just a few leaf bites but nothing 
really damaging. Just as was foretold in the gardening classes, and books.

A healthy garden rarely needs non-organic fertilizers, 
or pesticides. After being raised with "better living through 
chemistry" it was a strange departure. An alternate reality.  
And little by little I dumped the conventional wisdom. Which 
by the way is less then 100 years old. And I went back to centuries old 
practices and they work. 

As an added plus I feel very connected to the earth. 
It is an innate, but very intimate bound. And I don't 
feel out of place or time when I play in the garden, to 
me all work no matter how hard becomes play on some level when 
to do with touching the earth.  
frank petrie 
From:  janie lee <luvlynana@yahoo.com> 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  2:41 am


Very interesting this...now, If only I could find the enemy of the slug! Here
in the great northwest, it is our worst garden enemy! Whomever says to plant 
marigolds to deter them was nuts cuz one voracious slug can lamblast several a 
nite, they seem to adore them! I've tried handpicking (shudderand a clothespin 
for the nose!), I've done the chop chop with my hand cultivator, stAnding on my 
small front porch like it is a crows nest from a sailing sloop...spying them as 
the nite approached and the temps cool, zealously running out and "cutting" them 
off before they reached my plants! I've ran around afore a salting each and 
every one acounting them as I went...you know! ...like 7 flys with one blow type 
of thing...I know it's strange to think of this very heartily built country gal 
choosing such a sport! But I assure you, I am good! ..........but alas, thery 
are many! .....Leaving them pans of beer? Yeah right...there are a
gazillion sluggy poopoos around here! I'd go broke! Ok, we used to run around 
each nite and morn with small hand shovels and a bucket, competiong to see what 
our totals each day would be...then dump them in our duck's pen! poor wee ducks! 
They'd do their level best, but there were only two of them and they were slowly 
outmatched...poor bills glued together, craws so large they couldn't keep their 
balance! (NO< we didn't give them the beer guzzlin slugs!) 
Ok, rough gravel, and beauty bark supposed to discourage them? HAH! yeouuu! you 
should see the slime trails! Ok, some copper  outlining the garden's edge? I 
know they look like awful dumb creatures, but give them a way and they'll find 
it...under, over...you know the story! I made some great slug traps out of 2 
liter pop bottles! But Pppeeeeeeeeeeeeuuuu you had to replace them every 
otherday (ever smelled concentrated dead slug goop?) And I couldn't drink the 
sodafast enough and the job of collecting the few who took the dare was such a 
unappealing job that I lost my enthusiasm of the hunt! So,,,deadline! I know,I 
know...you are all cringing! I'm SO SORRY! I had no where else to turn! I was 
run ragged, dreaming of slug murders, mass murders! It was a nightmare! 
Ooooooooooooou! Help me! I'm being attacked! By the slug masters! ooou 
yuck!muck, aaarggggggh! Quick, before slug season opens again....tell me....what 
oh what should I do? Please saveme from the sluggies, the slimy munsters! 
Janie 

******************************************************************** 
From:  "Jon Wood <backwaterjon@yahoo.com>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  2:56 am

Collect a passel of them and run them thru your blender (don't use 
the one in your kitchen!) with that slurry, dump it into a 5 gal 
bucket of raw water (not city water) and a half cup of cooking oil. 
Let it sit in the sun for about 4 hours, strain it, then use that 
water 1 pint to each gallon of water, and spray it on the live slugs.


Bugs carry in their own bodies the germs and disease that will kill 
them. Once you blend the bugs it releases the diseases in their 
bodies which begins feeding off their dead bodys once the sun warms 
your mixture. The spray attacks the outside of their bodies where 
there is nothing to prevent the germs/diseases from killing them. One 
by one.

********************************************************************
From:  GardenLivin@aol.com  (rachel)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  8:23 am

Well, Janie, it really does seem like you've given it an incredible effort 
there, dealing with the slugs. You probably encounter more in a day than I do in 
the whole season in my garden so I'm not the best to try to offer 
advice. :) But I will anyway, just in case- there's that remote possibility 
that I might be helpful. (hey - it happens once in a while!) 

Okay, I read through the list of what you've done. Here are two things that I 
didn't see there. Don't laugh - but I've read that if you turn over 
cantaloupe halves (or other melons, too, I guess) the slugs will migrate 
there and you can just pick them up and throw them out. Granted, you'd need 
a lot of cantaloupes to deal with your slug population, but hey - at least 
cantaloupe is better for you than soda! :) In the same concept, though, 
I've read that if you leave a board out there they will also migrate to the 
bottom of the board and then in the morning you can go out get them from 
there and dispose of them. Or turn them into Slug Juice like Jon 
recommended. :)

It would seem like the board in the garden would be the way that would 
collect the most of them. Then you're just left with the gross (in my 
opinion) job of cleaning them off in the morning. :)

******************************************************************** 
From:  "Dee <bluebirdorchard2001@yahoo.com>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  8:56 am

I have gardened for 10 years right here and NEVER saw a slug one, 
until I planted hostas last year! They are like a beacon, calling 
slugs to the garden, I swear! Don't know where they came from, but I 
smooshed every one I found last summer near the hostas. If they come 
again this year, the hostas go! I'll give them to best-est friend 
Mary--let her wrangle slugs. (oh! that sounds evil, doesn't it 

******************************************************************** 
From:  "cynthia brennemann <thornkell@charter.net>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  10:48 am

The innocuous and very beautiful firefly is the natural enemy of the 
slug. Their larvae eat them! Also decollate snails, with the 
beautiful shells, are meat eating snails which eat slug and snails 
that eat your veggies. Chickens love them, although it is rather 
nauseating to watch them play tug of war...Blech. And I noticed 
after spraying predatory nematodes that my slug problem REALLY 
started to vanish. 

********************************************************************
From:  "Dee <bluebirdorchard2001@yahoo.com>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  8:51 am

from eartheasy.com

Slugs are in every garden, and cause more damage than most garden 
invaders. Commercial slug killers are available, but they are toxic 
to birds and other wildlife, and are less effective after rain, when 
slugs are most active. 

Here are a few alternative natural, non-toxic methods of slug control:

Watering Schedule 
Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden 
is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most 
active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid 
watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water 
in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies 
show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.


Beer
Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow 
wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and 
drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain 
won't dilute the beer. Leave enough space for the slug to enter the 
trap.


Seaweed
If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. 
Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a 
natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of 
plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries 
it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs 
avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in 
direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very 
rough which also deters the slugs. 


Copper
Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised 
beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Bend the strips so one 
edge sticks straight up, making more of a "fence" for the slugs to 
climb. When crossing the copper, the slugs get a small electrical 
jolt which repels them.
Over time the copper loses some of its strength. This can be restored 
by going over the copper with a piece of fine sandpaper. 
Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of 
microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them 
to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around 
garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make 
a foliar spray.
Diatomaceous earth is less effective when wet, so use during dry 
weather. Wear protective gear when applying, as it can irritate eyes 
and lungs. Be sure to buy natural or agricultural grade diatomaceous 
earth, not pool grade which has smoother edges and is far less 
effective. Available in garden centers; it is fairly expensive.


Salt
If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a 
flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most 
damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a 
bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly 
pleasant, but use as a last resort.


Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground
Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it 
up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the 
slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, 
with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
Another trap method, perhaps the simplest of all, is to set a wide 
board on the ground by the affected area. Slugs will hide under the 
board by day. Simply flip the board over during the day to reveal the 
culprits. Black plastic sheeting also works the same way.


New caffeine-based slug/snail poisons
A recent study (June 2002) reported in the journal Nature found that 
slugs and snails are killed when sprayed with a caffeine solution, 
and that spraying plants with this solution prevents slugs from 
eating them. The percentage of caffeine required in a spray is 
greater than what is found in a cup of coffee, so homemade sprays are 
not effective. Look for new commercial sprays which are caffeine-
based. (Although two caffeine-containing pesticides have been 
developed, neither is on the market yet. These products should be on 
the market soon.) 

(this last one must be real new....but I have heard if you sprinkle 
coffee grounds around plants, the slugs won't bother the plant)

*****************************************************
From:  GardenLivin@aol.com  (rachel)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  8:55 am


I love this one - the seaweed. Hey, I can make the drive to NJ and collect 
seaweed there. I wonder, though, if it would be okay to just harvest it from 
what washes up on the beach. Do you think it might be polluted? 

***************************************************** 
From:  "Dee <bluebirdorchard2001@yahoo.com>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  8:59 am


I don't know Rach, as polluted as our earth is, I guess it would 
still be worth a try to someone over attacked by slugs tho. Gardeners 
near the coast may know the best answer here...

***************************************************** 

From:  puffin_49@yahoo.com  (Wendy)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  11:12 am

Leaving beer bottles laying on their sides always worked for me. 
Guess they like the dark AND the hops :-)
***************************************************** 
From:  Mike V <mike@mjv.com> 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  10:31 am

Once I get my brine tanks set up, I may be calling on you, Rach. What 
kind of seaweed washes up on them shores over yonder? The leafy green 
kind? The stringy red kind?

***************************************************** 
From:  GardenLivin@aol.com 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  10:42 am

Welll, it's been years since I lived at the shore, but memory tells me the 
leafy green kind - the kind with the bubbles you can pop, if you know what I 
mean.

***************************************************** 
From:  GardenLivin@aol.com  (rachel)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  9:00 am

Don't some people use coffee grounds in their soil anyway? So they could serve a 
double purpose - ammending the soil in some way and deterring slugs?

***************************************************** 

From:  "cynthia brennemann <thornkell@charter.net>" 
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  10:55 am

Don't go crazy with coffee and tea grounds, by the way. Caffeine is 
phytotoxic to many plants

***************************************************** 
From:  "puffin_49 <puffin_49@yahoo.com>" (Wendy)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  11:14 am

I always sprinkle my coffee grounds into compost or under my 
Andromeda. Andromeda's are acid loving plants. Sometimes I toss my 
tea bags under it, too :-)

****************************************************
From:  icabellaluna@aol.com  (Dona Aria)
Date:  Sun Feb 9, 2003  9:09 am


I tend to have a slug problem and what I have done is cut off about half of a 
plastic cup and place them around my plants with beer in them. Slugs like beer 
and after they have had their cocktail they just kind of take a nap and then I 
remove them.

===========================================Tue, 18 Jun 2002
Wrom: TNHGSWZIDREXCAXZOWCONEUQZAAFXIS
Subject: I dare you Phase II Part One: Equipment list to make soap
For those who are up to take this weeks challenge.. Start looking at garage 
sales or Goodwill type stores, bribe someone who has not used something off the 
list for the last eons in trade for some soap.. ect
Everything that comes in contact with anything in soapmaking is now condemned to 
be only for soapmaking. Take a black Sharpie (indelible) pen and mark EVERYTHING 
"Soap Only"
You need:
wooden chopsticks
2 deep stainless steel bowls
2 glass dairy themometers (you can get them in the housewares dept)
a blender with a GLASS pitcher
lots and lots and lots and lots of yogurt or cottage cheese containers with lids
rubber kitchen/dishwashing gloves
VINEGAR!
measuring cup ( I used a Hills dog food measuring cup as I work for vet offices)
plastic measuring pitcher
wooden spoons with long handles
saran wrap(cringe, I have not tried cellophane with this project)
Old blankets or sleeping bags
Ingrediant list:
1 can of Crisco
Olive oil
coconut oil
distilled water
Red devil lye . Shake the can and make sure it is not solid, but loose
any essential oils or dried herbs
tenzicut
SOAPMAKING


First, a few warnings: Soapmaking requires lye. Lye is extremely caustic. Don't
let this scare you away from making soap; if you exercise reasonable caution
you'll be fine. KEEP LYE AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND PETS. Do not inhale the vapors.
(Mix outside, if possible.) Avoid getting lye on your skin; if you do, rinse
for a while under cold water. If you feel more comfortable, you can wear rubber
gloves and/or goggles. I don't. When lye mixes with water it gets extremely
hot. For this reason, mix it in a container with a handle or at least use
potholders. It is also recommended that you not use a glass container, as the
sudden change in temperature may crack the glass. Now, with that out of the
way, let's move on.

What you need: 

a.. Scale (You can buy a kitchen scale for less than $10.)
b.. Container for mixing lye (I use a "clear" gallon-sized plastic pitcher)
c.. Wooden spoon for mixing lye
d.. Slow-cooker
e.. Additional container(s) for measuring
f.. Shortening (for this recipe. Some use other oils.)
g.. Lye
h.. Mold(s) (I use drawer dividers.)
i.. Safety equipment (gloves, goggles) if you want it
j.. Colorants and/or scents
Other notes: 

- All measurements in soap recipes are by weight, unless otherwise indicated. 

- Don't fill crock more than halfway, as mixture will bubble up.

- Some people recommend using the "low" setting on your slow-cooker until
you've determined how your particular cooker works with the soap. Personally, I
found that on "low" it was too slow for my taste and I used the "high" setting. 

- It takes me about 1-1/2 hours to finish a batch of soap.

- I make the shortening version of the recipe below, in a half-batch because
that's all that fits in my cooker. It makes the equivalent of about 10 average
bath-size bars of soap.

- I can get 3 of these half-batches of soap from 1 can of lye and 2 cans of
shortening, which comes out to somewhere around $3 per half-batch.

- You can make any soap recipe using these instructions. Just be sure to melt
any solid oils beforehand and, once they're melted, measure in liquid oils.

- You can use just about any hollow container for soap molds. Grease them
first. (I use shortening.)

- Colorants and/or scents can be added at trace and/or right before putting the
soap into molds.

- There is another option for adding colorants and scents. Finish the basic
soap and let it harden. Then re-melt it and add the colorants/scents. Pour into
molds and let harden again.

The instructions: Prepare molds. Measure shortening, being sure to allow for
the weight of the container. Warm in slow-cooker until melted. (This can take a
while.) When shortening is melted, measure water in pitcher and measure lye in
a separate container. Take outside, if possible, and mix lye into water (not
the other way around!) with wooden spoon. Stir until lye is completely
dissolved. Take lye water back inside and mix into melted shortening. Continue
stirring until mixture reaches trace. "Trace" is when you can lift the spoon
and drizzle some of the soap into the mixture and it remains momentarily on the
surface, leaving a "trace". (The reason for stirring during this time is to
keep undeveloped lye from being left in your finished soap.) Now you can stop
stirring. Leave the cooker on, though. After a little while, the edges of the
soap will start to bubble up and sort of fold over onto the middle of the soap.
The bubbly part will gradually extend toward the middle of the pan. When all of
the soap is bubbly - it will look like applesauce or gloppy Vaseline - it's
finished. You can now plop it into your mold(s). You might want to tap them on
the counter several times to help eliminate air bubbles. Leave overnight, then
unmold and cut. This soap can be used immediately or you can leave it for
several weeks to dry out and harden.

The basic recipe: 

50 oz. shortening

19 oz. water

6.5 oz. lye

-OR-

50 oz. lard

19 oz. water

6.3 oz. lye

Quick-Reference: 

a.. Measure (and melt, if necessary) oils.
b.. Measure lye and water.
c.. Mix lye and water.
d.. Mix in lye water and stir until trace. (Opt. add color/scent.)
e.. Let cook to "applesauce" stage. (Opt. add color/scent.)
f.. Mold overnight.
g.. Unmold and cut.
Sq. Ft. Seed Tape Making

Using paper towels squares like this is also a great way to set up your
squares for square foot gardening.... you can set up the squares and just
lay them out as each square is ready for succession planting throughout
the season... as well as setting things up at the beginning of the
season, of course... makes it just such a simple thing to be able to get
that square planted just as soon as it becomes vacant.. and you can set
up your paper towels with their seeds while sitting in a nice comfy chair
at the table instead of sitting on the ground!

Neat way for setting up squares that have succession crops in them.. for
example... carrots, a root crop that takes longer to mature..
interplanted with lettuce.. and above ground crop that matures quickly...
you can double crop the squares.. with the convenience of the paper
towels.. 

I just love finding creative ways of making the work easier.....

Topper (Linda)
From:  topper2@juno.com
Starting from seed is not only economical, it expands the diversity 
of cultivars available, and offers a deeper connection to the plants 
we grow.

While growing one's own seedlings may seem a little daunting at 
first, following a few simple guidelines can increase your chances 
of success. All you'll need to get started is: 

A great selection of seeds


A flat surface with plenty of light and a little warmth


Some containers


A potting mix


Organic fertilizer 

Starting with good seeds is key. Seeds of Change offers almost 600 
varieties of certified organic flower, vegetable and herb seeds, all 
of which have been developed and selected specifically for organic 
gardening.

Timing is Everything
Whether you're planting indoors or out, determining the "frost free" 
date for your area and studying the information on your seed packs 
is essential for establishing your planting sequence. If you don't 
know the average date of the last frost for your area: 

Ask other gardeners in your neighborhood


Contact your local extension service


Check out our GardenCycle Planner. 

Prepare the Potting Mix
Good potting blends should be available at your local garden center. 
If you're planting a lot of seedlings, you can make your own mix by 
combining equal parts sphagnum peat moss*, perlite and vermiculite. 
Our Research Farm makes a custom mix that consists of three parts 
peat, two parts vermiculite, one part each of sand and screened 
compost, and a small amount of kelp powder. Adding mature compost 
and kelp will reduce the need for additional fertilizing.

Some people believe that everything must be sterile; others like to 
add a little soil from the garden to lessen the shock of 
transplanting. "The Sustainable Vegetable Garden" suggests an 
economical and fully organic mix of equal parts garden soil and 
sifted compost. Whichever you choose, be sure to thoroughly moisten 
the mix before filling your containers.

*A note about peat moss: We are aware that peat is not a sustainably 
harvested material. After much research, we now offer GrowCoir, a 
renewable, coconut based growing medium as a ecological peat 
alternative.

Gather Containers
Our website and catalog offer a diverse selection of containers, 
like the Pot Maker, which recycles old newspapers into ideal starter 
pots, as well as Eco-flats, which are made from recycled cardboard. 
Economical alternatives include: 

Yogurt containers


The bottoms of milk jugs


Juice cartons 

Or you can make wooden flats 14"x 23"x 3" deep to hold the most 
seedlings without getting too heavy. Whatever containers you use, be 
sure they're clean and have holes in the bottom for drainage. 
Plastic trays or container lids are great for catching the excess 
water.

Sow Your Seeds 

Read your seed packs carefully to determine if any of your seeds 
have special needs.


Plant the seeds to the depth indicated on the pack.


Cover lightly with soil.


Gently compress the soil over the seeds. 
For best results, plant two seeds per container and thin to the 
strongest plant. Remember to mark the containers with the variety 
and date planted. Our Wooden Plant Markers serve as an attractive 
and biodegradable alternative to plastic.

Keep Them Moist and Warm
Once sown, keep your seeds evenly moist without drowning them. If 
you only have a few plants going, a spray-bottle will work. 
Eventually, however, you'll need a special watering can or Fog 
Nozzle to provide a fine spray.

For surface-sown seeds, you may want to cover your flats or 
containers with glass or clear plastic to retain moisture and allow 
light to penetrate. Be careful not to "bake" the seeds in direct 
sunlight. Once your seedlings emerge, allow the surface of the soil 
to dry out between waterings. Over-watering can lead to problems 
such as damping off.

Most seeds need a soil temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit 
(18 Celsius). Again, your packs will have specific information. If 
you find it difficult or impractical to keep the whole area warm, 
you may want to consider a Seedling Heat Mat. If the temperature in 
your propagation area varies too much, look into purchasing a 
Thermostat for your heat mat.

Plants Need Light
After your seedlings emerge, it's crucial that they get enough 
light. In most cases, a sunny window will do, but you'll need to 
rotate your flats every day, as your seedlings will continuously 
lean towards the sun. Generally, if your plants look like they are 
getting "leggy," or too tall for their size, this means they are not 
getting enough light. If you don't have enough sunny window space 
you may need to add supplemental lighting. Inexpensive four foot 
fluorescent "shoplights," are available at most hardware stores. It 
is best to retrofit them with full spectrum bulbs and to hang them 
around a foot from the tops of the plants.

Feed Your Seedlings
Your potting mix, along with the seeds themselves, will provide 
ample nutrition in the beginning. However, once the plants develop 
their second set of leaves, you may wish to give them a mild, weekly 
dose of a high potassium, organic liquid fertilizer. Our EarthJuice 
Grow is excellent for this purpose. Be sure not to over-fertilize!

Hardening Off
As your seedlings mature, you'll need to get them used to the idea 
of being outdoors and subject to the sun, wind, and cool nights. 
About two weeks before transplanting time, set them outside in a 
protected area for an hour or two at first, then gradually increase 
their exposure until transplanting day. Be careful not to overdo it 
and never leave them out when it frosts!

Using a Cold Frame or Cloche is a great solution as it can be opened 
and closed as the weather dictates. Our Deluxe Cold Frame even has 
an optional Automatic Vent Opener. In our greenhouses, before we set 
our plants outside, we occasionally run our hands over them or use a 
fan to jostle them in order to stimulate healthy stem development.

Follow these simple rules, and before you know it, you'll have more 
healthy seedlings than you'll know what to do with. For more 
information on seed starting see our article on Direct Seeding and 
Transplanting.

Good luck!

**********

tenzicut
Root Cellar storage requirements 

Apples

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with vegetables 
c.. 32 to 40 degrees Farenheit 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Beans, dry

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. 32 to 50 degrees Farenheit 
d.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Beets

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Farenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Brussels sprouts

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Farenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Cabbage

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Cabbage, Chinese

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Carrots

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Cauliflower

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Celeriac

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Celery

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Endive (Escarole)

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Garlic

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. 32 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit ideal 
d.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Grapefruit

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with vegetables 
c.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Grapes

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with vegetables 
c.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Horseradish

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
d.. May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be
done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your
harvest season. 
Jerusalem artichoke

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
d.. May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be
done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your
harvest season. 
Kale

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Kohlrabi

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Leeks

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity
Onions

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. 32 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit ideal 
d.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Oranges

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with vegetables 
c.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Parsnips

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Pears

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with vegetables 
c.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Peas

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. Airtight container 
d.. 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit 
e.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Peppers, hot dried

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit 
d.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Popcorn

a.. Cool and dry 
b.. Home and commercially prepared foods also need a cool, dry storage
place 
c.. Airtight container 
d.. 32 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit 
e.. 60 to 70 percent relative humidity 
Potatoes

a.. Cold and moist 
b.. Do not store with fruits 
c.. 38 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit ideal 
d.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Potatoes, sweet

a.. Warm and moist 
b.. To keep sweet potatoes from spoiling in warm and moist storage, do
not let temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Pumpkins

a.. Warm and dry 
b.. 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 60 to 75 percent relative humidity 
Radish, winter

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Rutabaga

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
Salsify, oyster plant

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 
d.. May be left in the ground undisturbed until needed. Digging can be
done unless the soil is frozen hard. A thick layer of mulch may extend your
harvest season. 
Squash, winter

a.. Warm and dry 
b.. 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 60 to 75 percent relative humidity 
Tomatoes

a.. Warm and moist 
b.. To keep green tomatoes from spoiling in warm and moist storage, do
not let temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 80 to 90 percent relative humidity 
Turnip

a.. Cold and very moist 
b.. 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit 
c.. 90 to 95 percent relative humidity 



Smitty
In His Thyme Homestead.
I dry the seed thoroughly on trays. then put in coin envelopes 
together in a long narrow box with the top off (like the box the coin 
envelopes came in or something like that). I leave that open box out 
somewhere in the house for 3-4 months in the winter, when houses tend to 
be very dry inside. 

Then I take 100 seeds out per variety and put into a different coin envelope (or 
the old coin envelope, being careful to separate the new seeds from the old 
seeds. most old seeds get composted at this point). 

This goes into the freezer. the rest gets traded, etc. I take all my seeds of a 
type (like peppers), and hold them together with a fat rubber band. I do this 
will all varieties (eg eggplants, tomatoes, celery, etc). This makes it easier 
to file and get again later.

Then I take each rubber banded clump of coin envelopes and put each into a 
plastic shopping bag. (this is very high tech sounding, i can tell :) ).
it is 1/2 for me. then i tie the top off losely, and stick in the freezer. if 
your freezer is not self-defrosting, i'd tie the plastic bag off pretty good, so 
as not to let ice in the bag. 

btw, i used to freeze my peas and beans too, but i have way too many now, 
and my freezer is so small. it's dry enough here that beans last for a 
LONG time, so i feel justified. but just so you know you can freeze those 
too. 

for the beans, dry in an open wicker type basket (i buy old easter 
baskets at garage sales for 5-10 cents) for many months (i dry mine until 
about feb-march) before storing in the freezer or in old baby food jars.

if you don't have alot of seeds, you can also store the coin envelopes in 
ziplock bags, a few clumps of them.

one note of caution: when taking a seed packet out of the freezer, wait 
till the packet is at room temp before opening the packet if you are not 
going to plant all the seeds in the packet. this is because if you open a 
cold seed packet, water will condense partially on the seeds. this is fine 
if you are planting them, but not fine if you intend to stick the packet
back in to the freezer after only removing a few.
From:  "Sharon L. Vadas
Temperature requirements
The temperature requirements for holding vegetables in 
storage or transit, the average freezing points, and the 
suggested relative humidities.(1)
----------------------------------------------------------
                Recommended  Max. Amount
            Recommended   Relative    of Time to   
            Temperature   Humidity    be Held        
Vegetables             (oF)        (%)        (Weeks)
----------------------------------------------------------
Asparagus        32       90-95    1-2
Bean            45-50       85-90    1-2
Bean, lima, unshelled    32       90-95    2
Beet, topped(3)        32       90-95    7-8
Broccoli        32       90-95    1-2
Brussels sprouts    32       90-95    4
Cabbage            32       90-95    12-16
Carrot, topped(3)    32       90-95    16-20
Cauliflower        32       90-95    3-4
Chinese cabbag(4)    32       90-95    8-12
Corn            32       90-95    1/2-1
Cucumber        50-55       90-95    2-4
Eggplant        50-55       85-90    1-2
Greens and Salads(5)    32       90-95
Kohlrabi        32       90-95    4-8
Lettuce, head        32       90-95    2-4
Melon -    Casaba        50-55       85-90    4-8
  Crenshaw and Persian    45-50       85-90    1-2
    Honey Dew    50-55       85-90    2-4
Muskmelon        45-50       85-90    1-2
Okra            45-50       85-90    1-2
Onion, dry        32       70-75    28
Parsnip, topped(3)    32       90-95    24-26
Pea            32       85-90    1-2
Pepper, sweet        45-50       85-90    1-2
Potato(6)        38-40       85-90    24-26
Pumpkin            50-55       70-75    12-26
Radish, spring, bunched    32       90-95    1-2
Radish, winter        32       90-95    8-16
Rhubarb            32       90-95    1-2
Rutabaga, topped(3)    32       90-95    8-16
Spinach            32       90-95    1-2
Squash, summer        45-50       85-95    1/2-1
Squash, winter(7)    50-55       70-75    24-26
Tomato, mature green    55-60       85-90    1-2
Tomato, ripe        45-55       85-90    1-2
Turnip, topped(3)    32       90-95    16-22
Watermelon        50-55       85-90    1-4
----------------------------------------------------------
1 Based on U.S.D.A. Handbook 66,1954.
2 The ranges in the relative humidity of the storage room 
  are offered only as a guide. The effectiveness of these on 
  the water loss from the products will depend on temper-
  ature, air movement, method of stacking, and the type of 
  packaging, including liners, icing, and wrapping.
3 When root crops are marketed in bunches with tops attached, 
  the holding temperatures should be the same as those 
  indicated for the topped product, but the holding period 
  can be only 10 to 14 days (or less).
4 Early cabbage can be held in good condition for 3/4 to 
  1-1/2 months.
5 Chard, collar, dandelion, green onions, leaf lettuce, 
  mustard, parsley, turnip tops, and watercress. The storage 
  life varies with the green but is at best only about a week.
6 Potatoes held for chipping should be at 50o to 60oF. Those 
  stored below 50oF will need to be at higher temperatures 
  before chipping.
7 Winter squash should be cured prior to storage, to provide 
  a protection against disease organisms during storage. To 
  cure, hold for 10 days with artificial heat at 80-85oF with 
  a RH of 80%.
----------------------------------------------------------

tenzicut

If you are going to cook outside, start your wood 30-45 mins before
you want to cook so there will be coals. Apply the coals in a
checkerboard pattern to as to not create hot spots top or bottom.
Lift and rotate the dutch oven every 10-15 mins a 1/4 turn and then
rotate the lid 1/4 turn the opposite direction.

8" oven size
325F add 10 coals top and 5 coals bottom
350F add 11 coals top and 5 coals bottom
375F add 11 coals top and 6 coals bottom
400F add 12 coals top and 6 coals bottom
425F add 13 coals top and 6 coals bottom
450F add 14 coals top and 6 coals bottom

10" oven size
325F add 13 coals top and 6 coals bottom
350F add 14 coals top and 7 coals bottom
375F add 16 coals top and 7 coals bottom
400F add 17 coals top and 8 coals bottom
425F add 18 coals top and 9 coals bottom
450F add 19 coals top and 10 coals bottom

12" oven size
325F add 16 coals top and 7 coals bottom
350F add 17 coals top and 8 coals bottom
375F add 18 coals top and 9 coals bottom
400F add 19 coals top and 10 coals bottom
425F add 21 coals top and 10 coals bottom
450F add 22 coals top and 11 coals bottom

14" oven size
325F add 20 coals top and 10 coals bottom
350F add 21 coals top and 11 coals bottom
375F add 22 coals top and 12 coals bottom
400F add 24 coals top and 12 coals bottom
425F add 25 coals top and 13 coals bottom
450F add 26 coals top and 14 coals bottom

Baking temps from regular cookbooks sometimes refer to temperatures
as Slow, Moderate, Hot, very Hot ovens.
Slow = 250-350F
Moderate = 350-400F
Hot = 400-450F
Very Hot = 450-500F

Servings per Dutch oven
8" = 2 quarts = 1-2 people
10" = 4 quarts = 4-7 people
12" = 6 quarts = 12-14 people
12" deep = 8 quarts = 16-20 people
14" = 8 quarts = 16-20 people
14" deep = 10 quarts = 22-28 people
16"= 12 quarts = 24-30 people



tenzicut
The ABC's of Starting Seeds

It's almost time to pick up those plump bags of potting soil at your
local retailer. If you've never started seeds inside before, this
planting primer is for you!

A is for Annual. As bedding plants they are the best. Some of the
easiest to grow include Marigolds, Cosmos, Nasturtiums and Sweet Peas.

B is for Biennial. These produce leaves the first year and bloom the
second year. The flowers go to seed and the plant usually dies.
Sometimes new plants will start from the seed around the base of the
original plant the following year. Biennials include English Daisy,
Forget-Me-Nots, Foxglove and Silver Dollar.

C is for Circulation. Most important to avoid the problem associated
with the next letter! Set a small fan by your seedlings and direct a
light breeze on to them for a few hours each day.

D is for Damping Off . This is the ogre of the seed sowing world.
Lower chances of this fungus causing your seedlings to keel over by
letting the soil dry out slightly in between watering. Don't sow
plants too close together. Also, set up that fan!

E is for Enthusiasm. Maintain your interest and dedication to your
young seedlings. They are dependant on you during this critical stage
and daily inspection is important. Your attention will reward you with
daily changes.

F is for Feeding. Seedlings don't need food at the two leaf stage but
when the third leaf appears, they'll need fertilization. Dilute a
water soluble fertilizer to 1/4 the suggested dosage and fertilize
once a week.

G is for Greenhouse. The goal of almost every gardener. Rolls of
plastic over hoops of re-bar will work as a temporary set up and
someday, maybe you'll have a glass one with a potting bench and heat!

H is for Herbs. Try some of the simple ones like chives and dill. And
don't be afraid to USE them this summer in your cooking.

I is for Identify. Don't rely on your memory to sort out those
seedlings popping out of the soil. Label all varieties clearly so
you'll know the proper location for them afterwards.

J is for Journal. It's a good idea to write down when you planted your
seeds and to keep track of their progress so you'll know which ones to
try again next year.

K is for knowledge. No one can be expected to know everything there is
to know about plants. Research the germination requirements for the
varieties you are growing. There are different conditions for
different types.

L is for Light. Try your hand at growing beneath lights for even
better results. Enhanced spectrum fluorescent tubes are recommended
for placing as close to plants as possible. 400 to 1000 watt high
intensity lights should be 24" or more above young plants. Lights
should be hooked up to a timer - 18 hours on, 6 hours off.

M is for Moving Day. Take your time acclimatizing young seedlings to
outside once the danger of frost is over. Just put them out for a few
hours at a time in a sheltered area at first, gradually increasing
this period over several days.

N is for nitrogen. One of the most important nutrients for green
growth.

O is for Onions. If you are growing them from seed, start them now.

P is for peat moss. This forms up to 95% of soil less mixes.

Q is for Quantity. One of the most common mistakes is sowing far too
much seed for the growing space. Carefully consider just how much room
you have before you plant that whole package of broccoli.

R is for Root. These act as a storehouse for plant food after it is
manufactured from photosynthesis or delivered via fertilizer.

S is for Seed. Available loose in packages, pelleted, on sticks, or in
seed tapes - enclosed between two layers of paper.

T is for Touch. Prepare your seedlings for light winds by touching
them gently.

U is for Ultimatum. Deliverance of a threat sometimes causes a
reluctant tray of seeds to germinate overnight.

V is for Vermiculite. Provides aeration and drainage in soil mixes.

W is for water. The essence of growth, it kick starts life into being.

X is for X-Ray. Earlier this year, the potential use of irradiation in
the US postal service to kill Anthrax spores caused concern to mail
order seed companies but this treatment is confined to Washington
destinations.

Y is for Youngsters. Involve them in sowing seeds. It's a far better
way than puppies to show them how new life begins in this world.

Z is for Zone. Keep them in mind when sowing perennial seeds. Our
hardiness zones are between 5 and 6. Anything above that probably
won't survive our winter.
From Another list: Author Unknown:



http://www.homestead.org/1sttime.htm

The First Time Homesteader


By Ken Davison

 In the 30 years that we have been homesteaders, we have probably made every 
mistake in the book, at least once. This was partly because there was 
no "book". Our parents were not homesteaders and by the time we had questions, 
our grand parents were gone. With nobody to teach us, we had to learn the hard 
way. The old timers called it "paying fool tax". We write this for "first time" 
or "would-be" homesteaders, in the hopes that you won't have to pay as 
much "fool tax" as we did. The best place for anyone wanting to become a 
homesteader is to start is right where they are now. Even while living in the 
city, working a 9 to 5 job, many of the necessary homesteading skills can be 
learned, and once learned, put into practice. Your situation will place limits 
on what and how much you can actually do. While raising goats may be out of the 
question, raising a few tomato plants and herbs in pots on a window sill is a 
definite start. 


By learning how to live more frugally, you will be better able to save towards 
someday getting your own piece of land. Perhaps you choose to buy produce when 
it is at it's cheapest, in mid summer, and home can or dry some for your food 
storage? Go to produce sellers and ask if they have any produce that is too bad 
to sell. Often produce is damaged in shipping and cannot be sold, but is still 
perfectly usable. Vegetables with a small spot of spoilage can often have this 
section removed and the rest be just fine. Often the produce seller will give 
you these vegetables for free, or at very low prices. The food can then be 
reclaimed, dried, frozen, home canned or eaten fresh. The bad parts can be fed 
to any chickens that your space might allow, or if nothing else, could be used 
as compost for your plants. For "city compost", run all the bad plant parts 
through your blender with just a little water, and then pour the "slurry" 
around your plants. 


Start now to buy things used, but in as good a condition as possible. Visit 
yard sales and flea markets. If you have the space, start gathering the tools 
that you will need once you move onto your homestead. Begin to simplify your 
life now and start selling off things you no longer use, making more room for 
the things that you will want for homesteading. The best place to buy many 
homesteading tools is actually in the city, where they are not as often used. 
Read as much as you can about homesteading skills. In short, make your 
preparations while you are still "stuck" in the city. If nothing else, it will 
help to make the time go by faster, and the time spent working on your 
homestead plans can become a small island of sanity where you can renew your 
spirit. Eventually the day will come when you can start to really live your 
homestead dreams. Where you look for land may be determined by many things; 
family, friends, employment, climate and land prices. Unless you have your 
heart set on one particular area, check land prices all across the country. You 
may be pleasantly surprised at how cheap land is in some parts. Recently, in 
Florida, (not known for cheap land), we saw one 20 acre piece sell for only 
$400.00 per acre. 


What should you look for in a piece of land? One of the most important things 
to think about and look for in a piece of land is water. Having a good water 
source can make or break a homestead. You may not only want to check out annual 
rainfall in a area, but also how deep the water table is. Most well drillers 
can give you a pretty good idea how deep the water table is in a given area. 
While it is sometimes possible to gather enough water to run a frugal household 
with rain water catchment (such as a cistern), having water for livestock and 
irrigation is more difficult. Natural springs and year round streams are a big 
plus when looking at land. Before you buy the land is a good time to try to 
find out about any problems that may be present with the water. Do some of the 
local wells dry up in summer? Are there unwanted minerals in the local water? 
How does the water taste? What about pollution in the ground water? 


The deeper the water table, the harder it is to pump the water to the surface. 
The "pitcher pump" will draw water only about 20 feet. Deep well pumps are 
available in manual and electric power. People who are new to homesteading, and 
are coming off of "public water" systems, need to reeducate themselves to the 
realities of where water comes from. A low capacity water system, already in 
place, doesn't necessarily mean rejecting a piece of property; but people 
should acknowledge that solving water problems on the homestead cannot simply 
taken care of with a call to the local utility company. The property that you 
may be looking at may not have adequate water for your needs, and it is up to 
you, not the seller, to determine this. We simply cannot stress enough how 
valuable an adequate water supply is on a homestead. 


The next area for concern is access. Access simply means a way of getting to 
your land. There are at least two possible problems with access. One is: does 
the land have legal access? In many areas legal access is established, such as 
when a road or trail has been in use for a long time, but this is not always 
the case. Just because the seller was able to drive you to the land does not 
always mean that there is legal access. Almost all states have laws that make 
it unlawful to "land lock" anyone off their land, but the new land owner may 
have to buy "right of way" access at current market value. A slightly higher 
priced piece of land, with legal access guaranteed, may be less expensive in 
the long run than a lower priced piece would be without the access. With legal 
access, the electric company can bring power lines beside the right of way. 
Otherwise, you may have to go to your neighbors and ask them to grant the power 
company right of way. While most states have laws protecting people from being 
land locked, few require that power access be granted. 


The second and equally important access problem is terrain. Swampy areas, steep 
hills, creeks that may swell during rains, areas of the land that are prone to 
flooding, or anything that may make getting to the land difficult or 
impossible, should be considered before buying. Unless you have priced building 
materials recently, you may be in for "price tag shock" the next time that you 
do. Any buildings or other improvements that are already on the land will 
increase its value. Maybe the old house is too rough for you to live in, but it 
might make a work shop or barn. Consider all improvements when looking at land, 
including how far power lines would have to be run in order to get electricity. 
If you plan on heating with wood, the size and quality of the wood lot should 
be looked at. Soil quality and places for gardens or pastures should be 
considered. The growing season should also be thought about before buying. 


Even with hard work, climate does effect what and how much can be grown. The 
severity of winters and how hot the summers are might be considered. Other 
considerations are what the State and local laws might be that restrict the use 
of the land. You need to find out about these before you buy the land, not 
after. How fast is the area growing? Many more neighbors might effect local 
restrictions on land use, or more people putting in wells might, in time, lower 
the water table. If you are choosing the land as a permanent homestead, you 
might want an area that is not showing rapid growth. Any natural building 
material that is on the land might be taken into consideration. 


Distance from schools, hospitals, shopping centers and the possibility for work 
may also need to be considered. Finally the price must be taken into account. 
Two very similar pieces of land can often vary greatly in price in the same 
area. By talking to the people already living in an area, it is sometimes 
possible to find land that is much below the price of what the Real Estate 
dealers are showing. Real Estate brokers work for a commission when selling the 
land. If you buy directly from the seller, you can often save this commission. 
If you already have some land that does not stand up to these ideas too well, 
then there are ways to work around many problems; but homesteading would be 
much easier without this extra effort. Stay tuned next time for Shelter and 
Animals... 


Ken Davison
dragon@phonl.com 

Subj:{OHG} The Health Benefits of Dandelions
Date:10/1/2002 7:20:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:    backwaterjon@yahoo.com (Jon Wood)
Reply-to: organichomesteadinggardening@yahoogroups.com
To:    organichomesteadinggardening@yahoogroups.com



The following is an excerpt from the excellent book by Peter A. Gail, 
Ph.D., titled "The Dandelion Celebration-The Guide to Unexpected 
Cuisine." See end note.

Suppose your doctor tells you, on your next visit, that he has just 
discovered a miracle drug which, when eaten as a part of your daily 
diet or taken as a beverage, could, depending on the peculiarities of 
your body chemistry:

prevent or cure liver diseases, such as hepatitis or jaundice;

act as a tonic and gentle diuretic to purify your blood, cleanse your 
system, dissolve kidney stones, and otherwise improve gastro-
intestinal health;

assist in weight reduction;

cleanse your skin and eliminate acne;

improve your bowel function, working equally well to relieve both 
constipation and diarrhea;

prevent or lower high blood pressure;

prevent or cure anemia;

lower your serum cholesterol by as much as half;

eliminate or drastically reduce acid indigestion and gas buildup by 
cutting the heaviness of fatty foods;

prevent or cure various forms of cancer;

prevent or control diabetes melitis;

and, at the same time, have no negative side effects and selectively 
act on only what ails you. If he gave you a prescription for this 
miracle medicine, would you use it religiously at first to solve 
whatever the problem is and then consistently for preventative body 
maintenance?

All the above curative functions, and more, have been attributed to 
one plant known to everyone, Taraxacum officinale, which means 
the "Official Remedy for Disorders." We call it the common dandelion. 
It is so well respected, in fact, that it appears in the U.S. 
National Formulatory, and in the Pharmacopeias of Hungary, Poland, 
Switzerland, and the Soviet Union. It is one of the top 6 herbs in 
the Chinese herbal medicine chest.

According to the USDA Bulletin #8, "Composition of Foods" (Haytowitz 
and Matthews 1984), dandelions rank in the top 4 green vegetables in 
overall nutritional value. Minnich, in "Gardening for Better 
Nutrition" ranks them, out of all vegetables, including grains, seeds 
and greens, as tied for 9th best. According to these data, dandelions 
are nature's richest green vegetable source of beta-carotene, from 
which Vitamin A is created, and the third richest source of Vitamin A 
of all foods, after cod-liver oil and beef liver! They also are 
particularly rich in fiber, potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, 
phosphorus and the B vitamins, thiamine and riboflavin, and are a 
good source of protein.

These figures represent only those published by the USDA. Studies in 
Russia and Eastern Europe by Gerasimova, Racz, Vogel, and Marei 
(Hobbs 1985) indicate that dandelion is also rich in micronutrients 
such as copper, cobalt, zinc, boron, and molybdenum, as well as 
Vitamin D.

Much of what dandelions purportedly do in promoting good health could 
result from nutritional richness alone. Vogel considers the sodium in 
dandelions important in reducing inflammations of the liver. 
Gerasimova, the Russian chemist who analyzed the dandelion for, among 
other things, trace minerals, stated that "dandelion [is] an example 
of a harmonious combination of trace elements, vitamins and other 
biologically active substances in ratios optimal for a human 
organism" (Hobbs 1985).

Recent research, reported in the Natural Healing and Nutritional 
Annual, 1989 (Bricklin and Ferguson 1989) on the value of vitamins 
and minerals indicates that:

* Vitamin A is important in fighting cancers of epithelial tissue, 
including mouth and lung;

* Potassium rich foods, in adequate quantities, and particularly in 
balance with magnesium, helps keep blood pressure down and reduces 
risks of strokes;

* Fiber fights diabetes, lowers cholesterol, reduces cancer and heart 
disease 

risks, and assists in weight loss. High fiber vegetables take up lots 
of room, are low in calories, and slow down digestion so the food 
stays in the stomach longer and you feel full longer;

* Calcium in high concentrations can build strong bones and can lower 
blood pressure;

* B vitamins help reduce stress.

Throughout history, dandelions have had a reputation as being 
effective in promoting weight loss and laboratory research indicates 
that there is some support for this reputation. Controlled tests on 
laboratory mice and rats by the same Romanians indicated that a loss 
of up to 30% of body weight in 30 days was possible when the animals 
were fed dandelion extract with their food. Those on grass extract 
lost much less. The control group on plain water actually gained 
weight.

Beyond nutritional richness, however, are the active chemical 
constituents contained in dandelions which may have specific 
therapeutic effects on the body. These include, as reported by Hobbs 
(1985):

* Inulin, which converts to fructose in the presence of cold or 
hydrochloric acid in the stomach. Fructose forms glycogen in the 
liver without requiring insulin, resulting in a slower blood sugar 
rise, which makes it good for diabetics and hypoglycemics;

* Tof-CFr, a glucose polymer similar to lentinan, which Japanese 
researchers have found to act against cancer cells in laboratory 
mice; Lentinan is a yeast glucan (glucose polymer) that increases 
resistance against protozoal and viral infections.;

* Pectin, which is anti-diarrheal and also forms ionic complexes with 
metal ions, which probably contributes to dandelion's reputation as a 
blood and gastrointestinal detoxifying herb. Pectin is prescribed 
regularly in Russia to remove heavy metals and radioactive elements 
from body tissues. Pectin can also lower cholesterol and, combined 
with Vitamin C, can lower it even more. Dandelion is a good source of 
both Pectin and Vitamin C;

* Coumestrol, an estrogen mimic which possibly is responsible, at 
least in part, for stimulating milk flow and altering hormones;

* Apigenin and Luteolin, two flavonoid glycosides which have been 
demonstrated to have diuretic, anti-spasmodic, anti-oxidant and liver 
protecting actions and properties, and also to strengthen the heart 
and blood vessels. They also have anti-bacterial and anti-
hypoglycemic properties, and, as estrogen mimics, may also stimulate 
milk production and alter hormones;

* Gallic Acid, which is anti-diarrheal and anti-bacterial;

* Linoleic and Linolenic Acid, which are essential fatty acids 
required by the body to produce prostaglandin which regulate blood 
pressure and such body processes as immune responses which suppress 
inflammation. These fatty acids can lower chronic inflammation, such 
as proliferative arthritis, regulate blood pressure and the menstrual 
cycle, and prevent platelet aggregation;

* Choline, which has been shown to help improve memory;

*Several Sesquiterpene compounds which are what make dandelions 
bitter. These may partly account for dandelions tonic effects on 
digestion, liver, spleen and gall bladder, and are highly anti-fungal;

* Several Triterpenes, which may contribute to bile or liver 
stimulation;

* Taraxasterol, which may contribute to liver and gall bladder health 
or to hormone altering.

These chemicals, individually, are not unique to dandelions, but the 
combination of them all in one plant, along with high levels of 
vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins and fiber account for the 
many claims made regarding the plant.

These claims include the following results of clinical and laboratory 
research, again as reported in Hobbs (1985):

* A doubling of bile output with leaf extracts, and a quadrupling of 
bile output with root extract. Bile assists with the emulsification, 
digestion and absorption of fats, in alkalinizing the intestines and 
in the prevention of putrefaction. This could explain the 
effectiveness of dandelion in reducing the effects of fatty foods 
(heartburn and acid indigestion);

* A reduction in serum cholesterol and urine bilirubin levels by as 
much as half in humans with severe liver imbalances has been 
demonstrated by Italian researchers;

* Diuretic effects with a strength approaching that of the potent 
diuretics Furosemide and Lasix, used for congestive heart failure and 
cirrhosis of the liver, with none of the serious side effects, were 
found by Romanian scientists. They found that water extract of 
dandelion leaves, administered orally, because of its high potassium 
content, replaced serum potassium electrolytes lost in the urine, 
eliminating such side effects common with the synthetics as severe 
potassium depletion, hepatic coma in liver patients, circulatory 
collapse, and transmission through mothers' milk;

* In 1979 a Japanese patent was filed for a freeze-dried warm water 
extract of dandelion root for anti-tumor use. It was found that 
administration of the extract markedly inhibited growth of particular 
carcinoma cells within one week after treatment;

* Dental researchers at Indiana University in 1982 used dandelion 
extracts in antiplaque preparations;

* In studies from 1941 to 1952, the French scientist Henri Leclerc 
demonstrated the effectiveness of dandelion on chronic liver problems 
related to bile stones. He found that roots gathered in late summer 
to fall, when they are rich in bitter, white milky latex, should be 
used for all liver treatments;

* In 1956, Chauvin demonstrated the antibacterial effects of 
dandelion pollen, which may validate the centuries old use of 
dandelion flowers in Korean folk medicine to prevent furuncles 
(boils, skin infections), tuberculosis, and edema and promote blood 
circulation.

Also, Witt (1983) recommends dandelion tea to alleviate the water 
buildup in PMS (pre-menstrual syndrome).

There are many testimonials from those who have benefited from the 
use of dandelions in the treatment of what ailed them.

Robert Stickle, an internationally famous architect, was diagnosed as 
having a malignant melanoma 21 years ago, and was given, after 
radical surgery had not halted its spread, less than 2 years to live. 
He said, in a letter to Jeff Zullo, president of the Society for the 
Promotion of Dandelions, (June 23, 1986):

" I went on a search for the answer to my mortal problem, and 
[discovered] that perhaps it was a nutritional dilemma.... To me, 
cancer is primarily a liver failure manifestation. {Italians are very 
concerned about problems of the 'fegato']. [I discovered that] the 
cancer rate in native Italians is very low among the farming 
population (paesanos). When they get affluent and move to the city, 
its the same as the rest of civilized man. Paesanos eat dandelions, 
make brew from the roots, and are healthy, often living to over 100 
years."

He states that he began eating dandelion salad every day, and his 
improvement confounded the doctors. When he wrote the letter in 1986, 
18 years had passed and there had been no recurrence of the melanoma.

A benefit which comes from writing articles for national media is 
that you hear from people who have interesting stories to tell. I 
recently received a call from Peter Gruchawka, a 70 year old 
gentleman from Manorville, NY, who reported that he had been 
diagnosed with diabetes melitis 3 months before and was put on 5 
grams of Micronase. At the time, he had a 5+ sugar spillover in his 
urine. He took Micronase for about a month before he learned, from 
his wife who is a nurse, that Micronase can do damage to the liver. 
He had read in "Herbal Medicine" by Diane Buchanan and "Back to Eden" 
by Jethro Kloss about the effectiveness of dandelions in controlling 
diabetes. Without saying anything to his doctors, he stopped taking 
Micronase and began drinking dandelion coffee each day. During the 
first week, his urinary sugar, measured night and morning, was 
erratic and unstable, but after a week, his sugar stabilized and when 
he called, he had been getting negative urine sugar readings for over 
a month. The doctors are amazed and can't explain it. An interesting 
side benefit to replacing Micronase with dandelion coffee is that, 
while Micronase damages the liver as a side effect, dandelions are 
particularly known for strengthening the liver.

According to Mr. Gruchawka, he changed nothing but the medication. He 
had cut out pastries and other sugars when he was diagnosed and 
started on Micronase, and has continued to do without those things 
while taking dandelion coffee.

In reporting these claims, however, I must add three qualifiers:

1. First, unfortunately, neither herbs nor synthetic remedies work 
for everyone in the same way. Different bodies respond differently to 
medicines, and what works incredibly well for one person may not work 
at all, or work less well, for someone else.

2. Second, good health results from a combination of healthy diet and 
enough exercise to keep the body toned. Bob Stickle, for all his 
insistence that dandelions cured him, changed, according to a mutual 
friend, his entire lifestyle. He didn't just add dandelion salad to 
what he was already doing.

3. People with health problems need to seek the advice and care of a 
competent physician, with whom this information can be shared. It is 
important to reemphasize that it is presented as information only. I 
am not a medical doctor, and neither advocate nor prescribe 
dandelions or dandelion products for use by anyone or for any 
ailment. Only your doctor can do that.

Because there are so many variables, it is hard to attribute Mr. 
Stickle's cure to any one of them directly. Likewise, Italian farmers 
live a lifestyle which combines a healthy diet, lots of work and 
clean air. They heat and cook with wood, which they have to cut and 
split. They haul water for household use. When they move to the city, 
diet, exercise, and environmental conditions change. Stress and 
sedentary habits increase.

And there is the importance of faith in the healing process, whether 
it be faith in God or faith in the curative properties of the herb 
being taken.

While dandelions, given all these variables, may never be proved to 
cure any specific ill, they are an extremely healthy green which 
cannot in any way hurt you. Research on how much you would have to 
eat to cause harm indicates that eating grass is more dangerous than 
eating dandelions (Hobbs 1985). Therefore, with everything going for 
dandelions, it is highly probable that everyone can derive at least 
some nutritional benefit from them by eating or drinking them 
regularly.

The medical and pharmacological establishment is generally critical 
of claims regarding the use of herbs on disease, and their concerns 
need to be put in perspective.

Herbal medicines have been used very effectively far longer than 
synthetics, and many current pharmaceutical products have been 
derived from research on plants used as medicine by many cultures. 
The problem with plants, however, is that they are available to 
anyone. It is impossible to patent a plant, and thereby gain 
proprietary rights to it. As a consequence, pharmaceutical companies 
attempt to isolate the active properties from medicinal plants and 
synthesize them so that they can patent them. Many of the synthetics 
have serious side-effects which were not present in the natural plant 
product, often because other chemicals in the plant offset them (i.e. 
the large quantities of potassium in dandelions which allows for 
potassium replenishment when dandelion is used as a diuretic).

USDA botanist Dr. James Duke (1989) suggests that a proper and 
appropriate "herbal soup", filled with "vitamins, minerals, fibers 
and a whole host of bioactive compounds," from which the body can 
selectively strain the compounds it needs to restore itself to 
health, will be more effective than synthetic medicines containing 
a "very select and specialized compound or two plus filler, usually 
non-nutritive." This is especially true if the "herbal soup", in the 
form of a potent potherb like dandelion, is a regular part of the 
diet so that the appropriate bioactive substances are present in the 
right amounts when the body needs them.

The book that this reprint was taken from "The Dandelion Celebration-
The Guide to Unexpected Cuisine" is recommended to anyone who would 
like to know more about this remarkable plant. It covers everything 
you could want to know about dandelions and more, including recipes, 
planting, picking and preparing, along with the wonderful history of 
this "Official Remedy for Disorders", Taraxacum officinale, the 
common dandelion.
The Health Benefits of Dandelions
By Peter Gail: Copyrightc 1989 by Goosefoot Acres, Inc. All rights 
reserved.


Date: 2/2/2003 10:03:55 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: idlewild@tds.net (Missy)

Ok, with the obvious exception of things like watermelons and pumpkins..do you 
think it is possible I can get away with planting everything else in tires? 
Have looked and looked and have had no luck finding ANYTHING to border out 
regular raised beds...think this is possible.. dh knows where we can get all 
the tires we could want and then some and I am slap out of ideas as to what to 
do. It won't look the prettiest in the world, but it will get my stuff growing 
at least...opinions????


******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 10:42:14 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: thornkell@charter.net (Cynthia)

I've grown veggies in tires.ÿ They do just fine, especially the heat 
loving ones.ÿ I have heard about toxins in the veggies, but have not 
noticed any ill effects from it.ÿ As for pumpkins and such, just 
plant them directly into haybales and water with manure tea.ÿ Works 
great.

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 10:51:00 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: mike@mjv.com (Mike V)
Why would you *not* plant watermelons and pumpkins in tire gardens? If 
regular tires are too small in your opinion - there's always 18 wheeler 
tires or even tractor tires. Treat it like any other raised bed I guess. 
Some trim the walls off and perhaps soap off road-grim and whatnot.

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 10:56:48 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: idlewild@tds.net (Missy)

well, last time I grew watermelons they went EVERYWHERE and I do mean 
everywhere..chocked the life out of everything around them and they were in a 
12x12 raised bed..they grew out of the bed and about 7-9 feet out into the yard 
as well...didn't think I could keep them contained in tires

*****************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:03:20 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: mike@mjv.com (Mike V)

Hee - if you can't contain them in tires, you can't contain them 
anywhere. Hmmm - it sounds like they *really* liked it - take advantage 
of the additional growth. One regular tire per vine seems about right. 
Grouping, companioning with vine-tolarant plants like corn and sunflower 
and going out and moving vines would take care of much of the overtaking 
problem. Also watch the leaf to fruit balance.

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:11:44 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: idlewild@tds.net (Missy)

Ok, now you lost me. One tire(that means one tire high too, right) would contain 
one watermelon vine????? and leaf to fruit balance? Remember, I am a 
newbie, lol. I grew them that one time and the wound up getting run over with 
the lawn mower. So how do I keep a watermelon vine in the tire? wrap the vine 
round and round and take off leaves? Can we tell I am clueless about gardening, 
lol
missy-who is REALLY trying to learn, I swear!!
*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:23:24 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: mike@mjv.com (Mike V)

I'm sorry - think of the tire as a pot. You'd have several of these 
"pots" in whatever location you're growing them in - like a bunch of 
little raised gardens. One, two high - it's purely personal - but vining 
plants will drape over the sides and travel around - excepting those 
with fruits small enough to trellis. Directing them helps.

Leaf and fruit balance - if your vine is all leaf with few flowers when 
it should be flowering chances are the soil is too rich in nitrogen. So 
if it's going haywire but not producing - that's a classic symptom. 
However, organic methods do tend to balance things out...

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:42:42 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: idlewild@tds.net (Missy)

Ok, so pretty much for each watermelon I want to plant I need to have 3-4 tires 
lined up(around or something like that) and as they grow I need to direct them 
into one of the other tires since I don't want it to hit the ground at all, 
right..should 3-4 be enough to hold them? amount of tires isn't a problem..we 
have found a pretty unlimited source, actually several places said "come get 
them all!!!!", lol.ÿ Boy, I am going to have tires all over my yard aren't I, 
lol, this is going to be a sight to see...must go get more stuff to make 
compost!!

missy

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:49:13 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: mike@mjv.com (Mike V)

Actually, if you can grow a low growing groundcover between pots like 
dutch white clover (legume and mycorrhizal innoculated), that shouldn't 
be too much of a problem. Then when the fruits form you can toss some 
dry mulch under it for additional rot protection... The guiding of the 
vines would largely ensure you've a place to walk and to make sure 
they're not overtaking plants like your 'maters...

I've see these beds with little walkways between covered with gravel or 
grass or clover. It certainly makes for an interesting garden...

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:48:06 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: topper2@juno.com (Topper/Linda)

Missy,

I've seen beautiful tire gardens... you can put them in groups and plant
them in the style of a square foot garden... You drill some holes in the
side walls on the bottom sides so that water doesn't collect and sour the
soil... fill the tires with soil and the square/diamond shaped that are
formed where the tires come together.. you can then plant inside the
tires themselves and in those spaces between the tires as well... You can
paint the tires or leave them plain... I like the painted ones the
best...

The most elaborate one that I saw cut the side walls off... so that just
the treads were left...like rings.. and they were stacked pyramid style -
like the pyramid planters I talk about making on my site... and then
filled the rings with dirt and plant away... the tires were all painted
different colors.. like a rainbow.. I would have preferred a single,
neutral color.. but it sure looked neat!

One guy I knew had horrible soil in his yard and a large cement slab that
the previous owners had parked a camper on... He made tire planters by
cutting out the side walls and stacking two tires together, to make it
deeper.. then filling with soil .. putting them on the cement slab... had
a huge garden that way... painted the outside of the 'groupings' of tires
white.. that looked really neat.

I had some tires on my property when I moved. in, they had cut the side
walls, maybe a dozen times.. from the inside where the wheel fits out to
the tread and then turned the tire inside out.. they then painted the
'petals' that were made by those slashes being turned.. and it looked
like a big flower... filled it with dirt and made it a planter.... My
Geraniums, started from seed, by me... loved those tires!

Let your imagination fly and use what you have available to you!

*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/2/2003 11:52:35 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: curtnlnz@glidecable.com (Ellen)

Missy if you want to get an idea of what will grow in tires try this site:
www.tirecrafting.com


*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/3/2003 3:14:48 AM Eastern Standard Time 
From: backwaterjon@yahoo.com (jon)

My tires are for growing food, not for beauty. If you want to make 
them really pretty, use the homemade paint shown in our files-organic 
paint for them most part.

I have one 16-inch tire that I cut daisy like and turned it outside 
in, this I have hen and chickens growing in, another kinda like it, I 
have forgot it's name: LaNell sent me some seed for that flower: moss 
like, it blooms red, orange, yellow, dainty-neat, quite beautiful.

I use 16 to 19-inch tires for growing potatoes in close to the house 
in protected spots for boiled taters most all winter.

Tandem dump truck tires keeps me in early greens: lettuce, radish, 
spinach, and such into freezing weather in winter, and right now I 
have these almost ready to eat, new in tires under glass outside.

In my larger tires: and I have (Jon stops and counts--Nine of them) 
these are the older cotton braid equipment real rubber tires off 
earthmovers: 33-inches in diameter. There, I will soon be starting a 
few special precious seed in I want to be sure to have a start of: 
Toni's heirloom tomato, Dee's heirloom tomato, and the ones LaNell 
just sent me. Plus a few hybrid tomatoes I used to have Amish grow 
for me when I had an old general store up on the lakes.

I have some gooseberry cuttings now rooting in one of these tires: 
cuban oregano rooting in another one: the remaining ones will be for 
seed starting in another few weeks. I probably could start them now 
even tho the temps will be back down into the 12 degree readings by 
end of the week, with snow predicted. But, if I did, the plants would 
be too big for practical transplanting into the garden.

You don't want a plant that is really big: certainly not plants that 
are already in bloom, if you buy them, don't buy ones like that.ÿ 

Also, if you live in zone 5 or higher, try planting a few seed like 
tomatoes and peppers out in the garden where there are to grow. Put a 
calcium pill under the tomato (just a few for experimentations), and 
banana peelings under the pepper plants. A plant grown from seed in 
the spot it is to grow will most times preform better for you than 
anything transplanted into the garden.

There may be a file called: Planting in Tires-seems like Rachel put 
my last post about it in the files. If not, once I am a bit more 
rested than I am today, remind me, and I will either re-write it or 
re-post it to the group.

And, I'll post photos of how I used mine last year. This year is far 
different than was last years use of my tires.
*******************************************************************************
Date: 2/3/2003 3:20:25 AM Eastern Standard Time 
From: backwaterjon@yahoo.com (jon)

Last year, late in the season, I planted canteloupe in one tire 
cluster because no rain came. I started two canteloup seed (Hales 
canteloupe) in just one tire. As it grew, I put another tire on top, 
and added a bit more mulch(shredded leaves and then later, shredded 
paper). I used only 3 tires tall, but I used pig fence around the 
outside of the tire, and trained the vines up on that wire, and used 
panty-hose to support the fruit.
Jon

********************************************************************************
Date: 2/4/2003 2:21:11 AM Eastern Standard Time 
From: backwaterjon@yahoo.com (jon)

Rear farm tractor tires make super planters!ÿ I have 3 of them as 
well. Plus two case 580 backhoe tires.

********************************************************************************
Subj: Re: {OHG} NMI - Where do you get your tires? Re:(Planting in tires)ÿ 
Date: 2/3/2003 2:18:41 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From: mike@mjv.com (Mike V)

Go to any tire shop. These guys pay premium to services to get rid of 
them - they're very expensive to dispose of. Hence, they'd just about 
load up a trailer and bring them to you and save hundreds. I have a 
place that's got a mountain of tires that I'm going to claim here pretty 
soon. :)


........Making Your Tire Sandals

First, place either foot in the center of a large piece of paper, at 
least an 8 1/2 x 14. Trace around your foot, being careful at all 
times to keep the pencil straight up and down. Next make a mark on 
each side, directly down from the point on your ankles (A) (see 
pattern at the end of this web page). Also make a mark at the point 
along the inside of your foot, directly back from your big toe (B). 

Remove your foot from the pattern. Now sketch a bigger outline 
around the tracing of your foot. Add about 3/8 inch for the toes and 
sides, but not to the back. Then use a ruler and bisect the pattern 
lengthwise, extending the line three inches past the heel. This 
serves as a guide to help you sketch the rear tab accurately. Now 
connect the marks you made by your ankles (A), extending a line 
three inches beyond each side of the pattern. These tabs will be 
sketched in front of this line. Also draw a line for the front tabs, 
extending from the single mark (B) across the pattern, perpendicular 
to the line that bisects the foot lengthwise. 

To learn more and the rest of the instructions, go to..

http://www.hollowtop.com/sandals.htm

tenzicut

Seed Saving: Tomatoes

There are a couple ways to do this.

Seed Saving Instructions: Cross-pollination between modern tomato 
varieties seldom occurs, except in potato leaf varieties which should 
be separated by the length of the garden. Do not save seeds from 
double fruits or from the first fruits of large fruited varieties. 
Pick at least one fruit from each of several plants. Squeeze seeds 
and juice into a strainer and wash, spread on a paper plate and dry.

I ferment my tomato seeds as it gets rid of the gel that surrounds 
the tomato seed which is where viruses will lurk. I Squeeze the 
tomato pulp and seed into a glass jar, add water and stir well. Then 
let it sit and stir once a day for 3-4 days. The surface will get a 
white mold growing on it (this is a good thing, honest)and the bad 
stuff will float to the top and the good viable seeds will sink to 
the bottom. At the 3rd day, take the stuff off the top and toss in 
your garbage and then rinse the viable seeds again with fresh water 
and then drain and spread on a paper plate to dry. This really cuts 
down on any potential viruses.

tenzicut
Traditional Soap Making

Some of the chemicals used in soap making can be harmful. People
experimenting with the methods and information given in these
materials, or trying soaps made from the information given in these materials, 
do so at their own risk. There are no implied or other under-takings given in 
these materials. References to 'medicated', or the nature of any soap's effect 
on human beings is entirely conditional upon each individual's allergies and 
other health considerations. Poorly made soap can 'burn' your skin. The 
production of safe soap takes time and patience, and comes with the resulting
experience.

MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT FOR SOAP MAKING
five main things needed to make soap. 
They are:
1) White (wood) ash,
2) Rain or Spring Water
3) Animal fats (grease)
4) Plant oils,
5) Salt

In getting the fat ready, sometimes lemon juice or vinegar, potatoes or rice are 
needed.  You will need some of the following objects:
Plastic buckets or big fired clay jars or pots, and large cast iron or stainless 
steel boiling pots can be used. NEVER use aluminum or tin things - AT ALL! 
Aluminum and tin are very badly corroded by the caustic chemical used
in soap making.  Wooden spoons or stirring sticks will also be needed.
Something in which to set the new soap will be needed, as shown in the diagrams 
of these materials. Clean cloths or rags will also be needed to filter out 
unwanted things from some liquids.

 

MAKING "LYE WATER:
Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as "Lye Water". When available, 
Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of certain wood ashes and 
"soft water". 
 
1) White Ashes; Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok 
tree wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the best 
lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. Whatever wood is used, 
it should be burned in a very hot fire to make very white ashes.

When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden barrel, or 
stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay pot-jar which has 
been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in the sun). A wooden drum 
or barrel which has a tap at the right is best.

2) Soft Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called "soft water", 
because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. This makes it 
useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in it. It will sometimes 
need to have a "washing soda" or "baking soda" in added to it. Otherwise some of 
the chemicals in the water will get in the way of making the soap. If you are 
using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some soda needs to be 
added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. If the soap easily foams 
up, the water is probably ok as it is. If not, try adding a little bit of soda 
at a time stirring it to make it disappear, until the water will foam the soap 
up. Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that you 
quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an eighth) of a cup 
of soda, then you would need 4/8 (or 1/2-half) a cup of soda for a full bucket 
of 'ordinary' water. However you have got it, store the "soft water containers. 
(Again, a clay-jar as described "SAFE" CONTAINERS". In covered wooden, plastic, 
or stainless steel buckets or any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels 
or jars described in the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called" safe 
containers".

If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in and it 
has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on  Fill the barrel 
with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 meter) below the top. Boil 
half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six liter), and pour 
over the ashes. Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the 
barrel. Close the tap or block the hole. Add more ashes to top the barrel up 
again, and more soft water. Do not add so much water that the ashes swim. Leave 
to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the time).  Later 
pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other "safe" container(s). Then 
pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water drip into "safe" 
containers. When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash 
container, then pour four to five pints (2« to three liter) of soft water 
through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a separate "safe" 
container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). Repeat this using two 
to three pints (one to two liter) of soft water, until no more brown liquid 
comes out of the ashes.; Either put the lye into "safe" bottles, or cover the 
"safe" containers which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden.

KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS!

LYE WATER STRENGTH.
If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather starts 
to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right
strength. If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if 
you wanted it to be stronger. If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little 
bit of soft water (a cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats 
so that its head pops up.

 
3) Animal Fat
(grease) The fat of most animals can be used in the making of soap. Grease made 
from beef fat, makes the best soap. Beef fat is taken from a cow, calf, steer, 
or bull, or bullock. Once the meat of the animal has been cut away, the fat is 
chopped into bits and placed in a cast iron frying pan or a (not too deep) wide 
pot. Melted slowly over a low heat, each pound (450 gm or 0.450 kg) produces 
about one cup of useful grease. Pour the melted grease through straining cloths 
(cheese-cloth). 
 
The grease must now be "washed". Add an equal amount of water, and bring to the 
boil, take off the heat, and  add one quarter (1/4) as much cold water. Leave 
the water and grease to cool. When the fat has hardened, scrape the dirty stuff 
off the fat. If the fat still looks dirty repeat until clean. On the last 
washing use twice as much water, and before boiling add one table spoon of salt 
(80 ml salt crystals). If fat which has been used for cooking is to be used for 
soap making, then you may need to get rid of smells. For each cup of smelly fat, 
add two tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice in half a cup of water and boil. 
Any fat which smells "off" should be treated in this way. Another method for 
treating smelly fat, when lemon juice or vinegar is not available, is to use 
sour milk. Melt the fat, and to each cup of fat add one cup of sour milk, and 
cook. When cooked, add cold water as before and let cool. Cooking potatoes or 
rice in fat can also help, one medium sized potato for each three cups of melted 
fat. Strain off fat when cooked and pour in cold water as before. All these ways 
will help to purify fat if it is rancid or smelly. If the fat that you wish to 
use is discolored, Potassium permanganate (if you can get some) will help to 
"clean" it. Dissolve a few crystals in two cups of soft water added to two cups 
of discolored melted fat. The cleaned fat
will harden as it cools and be able to be taken off the top of the liquid. 
[Potassium permanganate is purple in color and is sometimes called Kondies 
Crystals. It should not cost much at all.] Washed fat, can be stored in a cool 
airy place for a few weeks before being made into soaps
 
4) Plant Oils;
Oils may sometimes be used instead of either some or all of the animal fats, 
described later on as being, used in making soap. (Please read the section below 
on Fats & Oils &Caustic Soda). Mineral oils (like the ones used in motors or 
engines) are not ok. Any oils which are good for eating or cooking, can be used 
in making soap. One of the best is said to be Coconut oil. Groundnut, Shea 
butter, Cocoa butter, Sun flower and many other vegetable oils are also used 

5) Salt
"Common" salt is used in making soap. Any salt made out of sea water (or from 
some stagnant lakes) which can be eaten with food, should be
ok. 
FATS & OILS & CAUSTIC SODA 
Lye water made from wood ashes or pot ash powder, is not as easy to work with, 
as lye made from caustic soda. Caustic Soda manages to work both oils and fats 
into soap (saponification) quite quickly and with little trouble. However, the 
amounts of caustic soda and grease or oil, have to be very carefully measured. 
As said earlier, caustic soda is not able to be got in some places for one 
reason or another. The draw back of using wood ash lye, is that it may not 
always work with all the oils that caustic soda is able to turn into soap.
 Coconut oil has been used successfully with wood ash lye, but often needs a lot 
of beef tallow grease with it. It will take some trial and error with small 
amounts of oils and lye to see which of the oils you have available to you, that 
you can use with wood ash lye. In many cases you will at least be able to make a 
soft liquid soap, using various oils, even if you can not make hard bar soaps. 
Sometimes extra boiling will help, but there would be a limit to how much 
boiling was really worth while doing.

Simple hard soap making has seven main steps to it:
1. Getting the right mixture of lye and grease, called proving".
2. "Boiling down" -removing unwanted water, and checking for what is    
3.Treating with salt to remove water, impurities, and glycerine, a process 
called "graining".
4.Adding colourings and or perfumes.
5. Pouring into moulds, called "setting".
6. Breaking the "green" soap out of the moulds and splitting it into  finished 
sizes.
7. Drying and airing the "green" soap. Freshly made soap is called "green 
soap". It is not green in colour. But is dangerous to touch until dried and 
aired for a few weeks. 

PROVING 
(Information1) Getting the right mixture of grease and lye is
perhaps the most important step of soap making. If too much lye is left in the 
soap, the soap will be able to "burn" the skin. Also, the soap may not "set" 
properly. Too much grease causes its own  problems as well.
Three different main ways of "proving" the soap are explained later on. Three, 
because some people will find one way better, while others will find another one 
works better for them. In "proving" the soap, either one or more of the 
different ways can be used. When making soap for the first few times however, 
you may like to try them all out. 

Mixing Greases
If you are wanting to mix beef tallow grease with another fat grease, like 
mutton (sheep) or lard (pig), it is better to only replace one fifth (1/5th) of 
the beef tallow grease, with the other grease. For
example, if you were going to use four pints of melted beef tallow gt; grease, 
you could use one pint of another kind of grease mixed in. This would probably 
be useful as a clothes washing soap. 

DONENESS - 
(Information 2) After having "proved" the soap mixture, an eye is kept on when 
the heating has got rid of the water that is not needed. During "boiling down", 
the mixture rises up the sides of the pot with many small bubbles (called 
foaming or frothing). This is the stage when water is going out of the mixture 
while the heat is kept going. When the foaming starts to slow down, the froth 
will go towards the right of the pot. Large white round bubbles will appear. If 
you are only making "soft" liquid soap, now would be the time to store it.
 GRAINING AND REWORKING - 
(Information 3) When aiming to make a "hard" soap, salt is added at this point. 
Any sort of eating salt like ones made from sea water should do. 
Salting the soap mixture, makes the soap rise to the top, often looking  quite 
"grainy"- like sand. So this step is sometimes called "graining". This step 
makes a good solid soap for washing clothes. But it also removes some of the 
things which make soap nice and safer for people to use on themselves. Soaps 
which are good for people to use are called "toilet" soaps. However, clothes 
soaps can be used by people -if properly "proved". To make a "grained" soap more 
useful for humans, it is "reworked". This involves remelting the "green" soap, 
and adding some more grease and or oils and lye. The same "proving" and checking 
for "doneness", steps are followed as for simple soap making, without "graining" 
adding salt.

COLORINGS AND PERFUMES - 
(Information 4) There are perfumes and colorings which may be bought as  powders 
or as liquids. These are added at the last "remelt" before pouring the soap into 
the moulds to "set" (step 5). These materials
explain a method of using flowers to put perfume right into the beef grease 
before the soap is actually made This is a cheaper way of doing 
it. If you are using liquid perfumes, they will sometimes be affected by heat, 
so add them well after the soap has been remelted, and stir in gently before the 
soap goes hard again. When trying out new perfumes, first test them on a small 
amount of melted soap, so that you can see how much will be needed in all. 
Perfumes will leave the soap and go into the air after a time, so use a bit more 
perfume than you might think you will need, when you are making the soap. Soap 
made from wood ash lye, is a bit brownish. Apple wood ash makes a whiter soap. 
As does using caustic soda instead of ash lye.

BREAKING OUT OF MOULDS & "SPLITTING"
Remember that the soap is "green" and must be handled carefully. Use rubber 
gloves, or grease your hands up a lot when touching the soap at  this stage. 
When the soap has hardened, remove it from the moulds. If it is already in the 
shape that you, want, then stack it, to air and harden further. If you want to 
make it smaller, "split" it using a fine wire, or a strong thin cord. Using a 
knife will normally chip the soap and make it break up into shapes which are not 
so useful.
DRYING & AIRING
Leave the soap to air and dry, becoming a lot harder, for about a month. Dry 
hard soap takes longer to use up. Stack it in a way that will let as much air 
get around it as is possible. Keep sunlight and water away! When the soap is dry 
and hard you can polish it with a soft cloth, and even wrap it in shiny or 
"grease proof" paper if you want to. After using soap, always put it in a clean 
dry place away from sunlight and metal containers or shelves.
FAILED SOAP
If your soap seems to have gone completely wrong, you will often be able to 
"recover" it by "grating" and reworking it using more beef grease and lye, and 
using the "proving" and "doneness" checks. You could also need to use the salt 
"graining" method again. This means t; that if you wish a higher quality soap, 
you would need to "re-work" the green soap to put back in some of the better 
qualities again. If your
soap has too much of a bite to it, then you will need to re-work it again as 
well. This is caused by there still being too much lye left in the soap. 
Sometimes the soap will not go hard. Continue boiling it, adding more grease and 
lye, and using the "proving" and "doneness" checks. THIS EXTRA BOILING CAN TAKE 
HOURS SOMETIMES. The whole matter of learning to make soap, has a lot of trial 
and error in it.



VEGETABLE-- TYPE OF CONTAINER-- RECOMMENDED VARIETIES:
 
Beans, Snap: 5 gal. Windowbox-  Bush types such as blue lake, contender, and 
montpellier
 
Beans, Lima:  5 gal. Windowbox- White Dixie Wonder
 
Beets: 5 gal. Windowbox Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red
 
Broccoli:  1 plant/5 gal. pot 
3 plants/15 gal. tub Super Blend, Italian Green Sprouting
 
Brussels Sprouts:  1 plant/5 gal. pot
2 plants/15 gal. tub Evesham
 
Cabbage: 1 plant/5 gal. pot
3 plants/15 gal. tub Discovery
 
Chinese Cabbage: 1 plant/5 gal. pot
3 plants/15 gal. tub  Michihli
 
Carrot: 5 gal. Windowbox at least 12" deep  
Short & Sweet, Danvers Half Long, Tiny Sweet, Baby Finger Nantes, Goldenhart, 
Little Finger, Royal or Red Cored Chantenay, Ox Hart, Baby Finger
 
Cucumber: 1 plant/gal. pot 
Patio Pik, Spacemaster, Pot Luck, Bush Whopper, Bush Champion, Burpee Hybrid, 
Salad Bush, Parks Burpless Bush, Burpless Early Pik 
Eggplant 3 gal. pot Slim Jim, Ichiban, Black Beauty, Modern Midget, Mission 
Bell, Small Ruffled Red, Thai Green, Bambino
 
Garlic: 8-inch deep container 
Most Varieties
 
Lettuce: 5 gal. Windowbox 
Salad Bowl, Ruby, Grand Rapids, Oak Leaf, Buttercrunch, Dark Green Boston, 
Little Gem, Bibb
 
Onion:  5 gal. Windowbox  
White Sweet Spanish, Yellow Sweet Spanish
 
Pepper: 1 plant/2 gal. pot 5 plants/15 gal. tub 
Sweet Banana, Yolo Wonder, Long Red Cayenne, Bell Boy, Keystone Resistant, 
California Wonder, New Ace, Red Cherry, Long Red Cayenne, Jalapeno, Thai Hot
 
Radish: 5 gal. Windowbox 
Cherry Belle, Icicle, Champion, Scarlet Globe
 
Spinach:  5 gal. Windowbox Dark Green Bloomsdale, Melody, America, Avon Hybrid
 
Squash:  2 gal. pot  
Scallopini, Baby Crookneck, Creamy, Golden Nugget, Gold Rush, Zucchini (most 
varieties)
 
Tomatoes: Bushel baskets5 gal. pots 
Tiny Tim, Small Fry, Sweet 100, Patio, Burpee's Pixie, Toy Boy, Early Girl, 
Better Boy VFN, Pixie, Red Robin, Sugar Lump, Tumblin' Tom (hanging baskets)


source: ContainerGardening.com 
Kill Bacteria in Meats.
Marinating meat in Vinegar kills bacteria and tenderizes the meat. Use one-
quarter cup vinegar for a two to three pound roast, marinate overnight, then 
cook without draining or rinsing the meat. Add herbs to the vinegar when 
marinating as desired.

Dissolve Warts.
Mix one part Apple Cider Vinegar to one part glycerin into a lotion and apply 
daily to warts until they dissolve.

Stains
Remove stubborn stains from furniture upholstery and clothes. Apply White 
Vinegar directly to the stain, then wash as directed by the manufacturer's 
instructions.

Grow Beautiful Azaleas and Blueberries
Occasionally water plants with a mixture of two tablespoons White Vinegar to one 
quart water. Azaleas & blueberries love acidic soil.

Relieve Arthritis.
Before each meal, drink a glass of water containing two teaspoons Apple Cider 
Vinegar. Give this folk remedy at least three weeks to start working.

Kill unwanted Grass.
Pour White Vinegar in crevices and between bricks.

Remove Corns.
Make a poultice of one crumbled piece of bread soaked in one-quarter cup  
Vinegar. Let poultice sit for one-half hour, then apply to the corn and tape in 
place overnight. If corn does not peel off by morning, reapply the poultice for 
several consecutive nights.

Washing Machine
Clean the hoses and unclog soap scum from a washing machine. Once a month pour 
one cup of White Vinegar into the washing machine and run the machine through a 
normal cycle, without clothes.

Cure an Upset Stomach.
Drink two teaspoons Apple Cider Vinegar in one cup water
to soothe an upset stomach.

Kill Germs on Bathroom fixtures.
Use one part Vinegar to one part water in a spray bottle. Spray the bathroom 
fixtures and floor, then wipe clean. Clean soap scum, mildew, and grime from 
bathtub, tile, and shower. Simply wipe the surface with Vinegar and rinse with 
water.

Deodorize the Air.
Vinegar is a natural air freshener when sprayed in a room.

Relieve Itching.
Use a cotton ball to dab mosquito and other bug bites with Vinegar straight from 
the bottle.

Lime Deposits
Clean lime deposits and calcium sludge from an automatic drip coffee maker. Once 
a month fill the reservoir with White Vinegar and run through the brew cycle. 
Rinse thoroughly with two cycles of cold water.

Relieve a Sore Throat.
Put two teaspoons of Vinegar in your humidifier.

Soothe Sunburn Pain.
Apply undiluted Vinegar to the burn.

Clean food-Stained Pots and Pans.
Fill the pots and pans with White Vinegar and let stand for thirty minutes. Then 
rinse in hot, soapy water.

Clean Rust from Tools, Bolts, and Spigots.
Soak the rusted tool, bolt, or spigot in undiluted White Vinegar overnight.

Prevent Bright colored Clothes from Fading.  Before putting the article in the 
washing machine, soak it in White Vinegar for ten minutes.

Keep a Garbage Disposal clean and smelling fresh.  Mix one cup of Vinegar in 
enough water to fill an ice cube tray, freeze the mixture, grind the cubes 
through the disposal, and flush with cold water.

Clean a Toilet Bowl.
Pour in one cup of White Vinegar, let it stand for five minutes, and flush.

Clean Dentures.
Soak dentures overnight in White Vinegar, then brush away tartar with a 
toothbrush.

Remove Perspiration Stains from Clothes.  Apply one part White Vinegar to four 
parts water, then rinse.

Cigarette smoke?
Deodorize a room filled with cigarette smoke or paint fumes. Place a small bowl 
of White Vinegar in the room.

Cure the Hiccups.
Mix one teaspoon Apple Cider Vinegar in one cup of warm water, and drink.

Eliminate Odors from used jars.
Rinse peanut butter and mayonnaise jars with White Vinegar.

Condition Dry Hair.
Shampoo, then rinse hair with a mixture of one cup Apple Cider Vinegar and two 
cups water. Vinegar adds highlights to brunette hair, restores the acid mantel, 
and removes soap film and sebum oil.

Clean Mineral Deposits from a Steam Iron.
Fill the water tank with White Vinegar. Turn the iron to the steam setting and 
steam-iron a soft utility rag to clean the steam ports. Repeat the process with 
water, then thoroughly rinse out the inside of your iron.

Remove light scorch marks from Fabrics.
Rub lightly with White Vinegar, then wipe with a clean cloth.

Repel Ants.
Use a spray bottle or mister filled with a solution of equal parts Vinegar and 
water around door jambs, window sills, water pipes, and foundation cracks.

Keep Drains Open.
Pour one-half box of old baking soda down the drain followed by one cup White 
Vinegar. When the bubbling stops, run the hot water.

Prolong and Brighten Propane Lanterns.
Soak new wicks for several hours in White Vinegar and let them dry before 
inserting. Propane lanterns will burn longer and brighter on the same amount of 
fuel.

Remove Decals or Bumper Stickers.
Soak a cloth in Vinegar and cover the decal or bumper sticker for several 
minutes until the vinegar soaks in. The decals and bumper stickers should peel 
off easily.

Deodorize a Wool Sweater.
Wash sweater, then rinse in equal parts Vinegar and water to remove odor.

Prevent lint from Clinging to Clothes.
Add one cup Vinegar to each wash load.

Prevent Ice
Prevent ice from forming on a car windshield overnight. Coat the window with a 
solution of three parts White or Apple Cider Vinegar to one part water.

Prolong the Life of Flowers in a Vase.
Add two tablespoons of White Vinegar plus three tablespoons of sugar per quart 
of warm water. Stems should be in three to four inches of water.

Prevent Cracked hard-boiled Eggs.
Add two tablespoons of White Vinegar per quart of water before boiling to 
prevent the eggs from cracking. The egg shells will also peel off faster and 
easier.

Clean Windows.
Use undiluted Vinegar in a spray bottle. Dry with a soft cloth.

Eliminate Unpleasant Cooking Odors in the Kitchen.
Boil one tablespoon of White Vinegar with one cup of water.

Remove Wallpaper.
Mix equal parts Vinegar and hot water. Use a paint roller to wet the paper 
thoroughly with the mixture. Repeat. Paper should peal off in sheets.

Eliminate Animal Urine Stains from Carpet.
Blot up urine, flush several times with lukewarm water, then apply a mixture of 
equal parts White Vinegar and cool water. Blot up, rinse, and let dry.

Relieve a Cold.
Mix one-quarter cup Apple Cider Vinegar with one-quarter cup honey. Take one 
tablespoon six to eight times daily.

Deodorize a Stale Lunch Box.
Soak a paper napkin in Vinegar and leave it inside the closed lunch box 
overnight.

Prevent Soapy film on Glassware.
Place a cup of White Vinegar on the bottom rack of your dishwasher, run for five 
minutes, then run though the full cycle. A cup of white vinegar run through the 
entire cycle once a month will also reduce soap scum on the inner workings.

Unclog a Shower Head.
Unscrew the shower head, remove the rubber washer, place the head in a pot 
filled with equal parts Vinegar and water, bring to a boil, then simmer for five 
minutes.

http://www.bbqblanton.com/vinergartips.htm#Relieve%20arthritis
Weather Resistant Homemade Paint

5 parts cottage cheese or dry curd cheese

(Dry curd cheese is cottage cheese without cream or flavoring added. You can 
make a similar cheese by putting cottage cheese into cheesecloth and hanging it 
until it stops draining. Use cottage cheese if you're in a hurry.)

1 part hydrated lime or slacked lime

Mix hydrated lime with water to make a paste. Add to cottage cheese and stir in 
well. Leave for few hours - the cheese lump will dissolve completely. Select 
some powder pigments and add to solution (Pigment powder must be lime proof)--
You can use homegrown dye as paint pigment. Add more water if too thick; 
powdered skim milk if too thin. Strain if you want a fine paint (old nylon 
stocking works well).


The single term used to describe underground, soil line, or crown 
rots of seedlings due to unknown causes is damping-off . The term 
actually covers several soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne 
fungi. 

Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani) is a fungal disease which 
causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. Infection 
occurs in warm to hot temperatures and moderate moisture levels. 
The fungi is found in all natural soils and can survive 
indefinitely. Infected plants often have slightly sunken lesions on 
the stem at or below the soil line. Transfer of the fungi to the 
germination room or greenhouse is easily accomplished by using 
outdoor gardening tools inside or vice versa. The germination room 
should not be used for mixing potting soils or transplanting 
seedlings as a general rule. 

Pythium Root Rot (Pythium spp.) is similar to Rhizoctonia in that it 
causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. However, 
infection occurs in cool, wet, poorly-drained soils, and by 
overwatering. Infection results in wet odorless rots. When severe, 
the lower portion of the stem can become slimy and black. Usually, 
the soft to slimy rotted outer portion of the root can be easily 
separated from the inner core. Species of Pythium can survive for 
several years in soil and plant refuse. 

Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora spp.) are usually associated 
with root rots of established plants but are also involved in 
damping-off. These species enter the root tips and cause a water-
soaked brown to black rot similar to Pythium. These fungi survive 
indefinitely in soil and plant debris. 

Black root rot (Thielaviopsis basicola) is a problem of established 
plants. It does not occur in strongly acid soils with a pH of 4.5 
to 5.5. It usually infects the lateral roots where they just emerge 
from the taproot. The diseased area turns dark brown, and is quite 
dry. The fungi survive for 10 years or more in soil. 

Miscellaneous fungi causing similar symptoms include Sclerotinia 
(white mold), Sclerotium rolfsii, Macrophomina phaseoli, some 
species of Botrytis (gray mold), Aphonomyces, Fusarium, 
Cylindrocladium, and others. Hence the need for the collective term 
known as damping-off. 

Symptoms of Damping-off: 
Seeds may be infected as soon as moisture penetrates the seed coat 
or a bit later as the radicle begins to extend, all of which rot 
immediately under the soil surface (pre-emergence damping-off). This 
condition results in a poor, uneven stand of seedlings, often 
confused with low seed viability. Cotyledons may break the soil 
surface only to whither and die or healthy looking seedlings may 
suddenly fall over (post-emergence damping-off). Infection results 
in lesions at or below the soil line. The seedling will discolor or 
wilt suddenly, or simply collapse and die. Weak seedlings are 
especially susceptible to attack by one or more fungi when growing 
conditions are only slightly unfavorable. Damping-off is easily 
confused with plant injury caused by insect feeding, excessive 
fertilization, high levels of soluble salts, excessive heat or cold, 
excessive or insufficient soil moisture, or chemical toxicity in air 
or soil. 

Above ground symptoms of root rot include stunting, low vigor, or 
wilting on a warm day. Foliage of such plants may yellow and fall 
prematurely starting with the oldest leaves. The roots of a 
diseased plant will have some shade of brown or black and evidence 
of water-soaking. Healthy roots are fibrous appearing and are 
usually white or tan in color. These symptoms are easily confused 
with severe mite, aphid, scale infestations, or root-feeding by 
nematodes or insect larvae. Environmental factors such as 
accumulated salts in the soil, insufficient light or nitrogen, 
potbound roots, cold drafts, etc. can be eliminated only by 
examination of the roots. 

Damping-off diseases can be prevented: 
Purchase disease free plants and seeds. Know your supplier. Do not 
be afraid of fungicidal coatings on seeds which will be direct sown 
out doors in cold soils, such as corn and peas. Seed borne disease 
can also be avoided by soaking the seeds for 15 minutes in a bleach 
soak (one teaspoon per quart of water) prior to sowing. 
Use sterile well drained soil mediums. See article on soil mixes. 
Try to maintain a soil mix pH at the low end of the average scale, 
i.e. 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root rot than a pH of 7.5. 
Commercially prepared germination mixes usually have a pH around 
5.5. As you water the seed pots and your seedlings with tap water 
(which in many municipalities is quite alkaline), the pH in your 
pots gradually increases as does the susceptibility to damping-off 
diseases. Know the pH of your tap water, and condition it if 
necessary to maintain a lower pH while the plants are still in the 
germination room. I prefer the use of vinegar at the rate of one 
tablespoon per gallon of water. 
Plants must not have their crowns below the soil line. Seeds must 
not be covered more than 4 times the thickness of the seed. 
Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the bottom 
only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots to stand in water 
as excess water cannot drain and the roots will be starved for 
oxygen bringing all growth to a halt. 
Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding of plants. It is important to 
maintain constant levels of growth through proper lighting and 
complete control of the growing environment. 
Avoid working with plants (taking cuttings or transplanting) when 
the soil is wet. Do not use water from ditches or drainage ponds or 
rain barrels in the germination room. 
Avoid spreading soil from infested areas or tools which have been 
used out of doors. Disinfect tools and containers with one part 
bleach in four parts water or with 70 percent rubbing alcohol 
(isopropyl). 
In the germination room, sow all your seeds on the surface of the 
media, then cover the seeds to necessary depth with a material which 
is less likely to harbor fungi than the media itself. Use one or 
more of the following seed toppings instead of soil mix: 
milled sphagnum moss 
chick grit 
course sand or fine aquarium gravel 
composted hardwood bark (steamed) 
In the germination room, mist seedlings in communal pots or flats 
once or twice per day with water containing a known anti-fungal 
agent such as: 
Captan (or other approved fungicide) especially if walls or floors 
are damp, or 
Cheshunt compound, a copper/aluminum formulation, or 
chamomile tea, or 
clove tea, or 
a one-time light dusting of powdered cinnamon on the soil surface, 
or 
a one-time light dusting of powdered charcoal on the soil surface, 
or 
if stinging nettle is endemic in your area, make a fermented 
infusion to use like clove tea. These last five actions 
are suggested by sufficient anecdotal evidence to prove the 
existence of a low level of fungicidal activity. I would not 
hesitate to use them in germination environments which have no 
history of damping-off diseases. 
Rotate plantings on a 2 to 3 year schedule using plants from 
different families in order to starve out existing pathogens. 
Provide constant air movement not tied in with the light timer. Air 
should move freely 24 hours per day, but not directly aimed at the 
plants. This helps the seedlings to aspirate, and excess soil 
moisture to wick. If you do everything else right but do not 
provide plenty of air movement, you will still get damping-off. 
So, what do I do? Answer: all of the above, all of the time. 
Damping-off diseases can be controlled: 
Fungicides may be applied as a soil drench after planting. They may 
be incorporated into the soil before planting as a dust. They can 
be sprayed in mist form on all seedlings as a precaution until they 
have been transplanted into individual pots. Once transplanted, 
only those seedlings known to be especially sensitive to damping-off 
need be misted with fungicide daily until the first or second seed 
leaves have emerged. The following chemicals are not recommended 
for use by the average recreational gardener, but may still be 
available for use (if not yet banned), providing the manufacturer's 
instructions are followed to the letter. 

Captan (sold as Captan) controls most pathogens, but not 
Rhizoctonia. 

Metalaxyl (sold as Subdue or Apron) controls Pythium, Phytophthora, 
and Aphanomyces. 

Iprodione (sold as Chipco) controls most pathogens, but not Pythium, 
Phytophthora, or Aphanomyces. 

Etridiazole and Thiophanate-methyl (sold as Banrot) controls most 
all pathogens. 

PCNB-etridiazole (sold as SA-Terraclor or Super-X) good general 
purpose fungicide. 

PCNB-quintozene (sold as Terraclor, Fungi-clor, or PCNB) controls 
Rhizoctonia and Sclerotinia species. 

Fosetyl-A1 (sold as Aliette) controls Pythium, Phytophthora, & 
Aphanomyces. 

Well, you get the idea. There are too many to list, and they go on 
and off the market very quickly (mostly because they are very 
dangerous when used improperly, and some are too dangerous to have 
been put on the market at all.) 

So, what do I use? Answer: Just enough Captan as needed. 
The Future of Damping Off Control: 
Biocontrol with microbial fungicides is being investigated in 
several academic labs. Typical targets are those plants being mass-
produced in nearby commercial greenhouses. Early results indicate 
damping-off prevention comparable to that achieved with the use of 
standard fungicidal drenches like those mentioned above. However, 
there remain some notable drawbacks in biocontrol of damping-off. 

First, microbial fungicides act against only one species of root or 
stem rot, and must be applied in advance. So, in order to prevent 
damping-off, you must know in advance which species of Pythium or 
Rhizoctonia or other fungi is likely to attack your crop. That 
limits their use to large production facilities. 

Second, some formulations of microbial fungicides have been shown to 
produce substances that are phytotoxic to certain crops. 

Finally, small changes in environmental conditions during test 
periods seem to cause significant differences in test results


Hi All,

Willow water is a safe and organic method for helping plants root.
willows all tend to grow in stream beds or near them, as heavy rains
come and wash them over sideways they have a tendancy to root back
into the ground as they lie. For this reason alone willows seem to
be very adept at rooting and have higher levels of rooting hormones
naturally.
Willow (salix) was the species that was first used to make asperin
(Salicylic acid), which is now synthesised artificially. So if you
have a plant to root here is what you do:
1) go get some willow branches, you can use florist types like
pussy willow or twisted willow, you can go to a creek and cut your
own white willow, black willow or other locally available willow
plant.
Make the stems about 1 cm thick and at least 1 foot long. soak these
in regular water for 1-3 days in a 5 gallon bucket 1/3 full. Now you
can use this water to help root whatever plant materials you would
like to root.
2) you may want to cheat....you can also use regular asperin
(Bayer or your favorite) do not use an asperin substitute like
tylonol or excedrin as it needs to say asperin. disolve 3 asperin
tablets in 1 cup of luke warm water and you can use that as a
rooting solution.

There are other rooting mixes as well, Dip and Grow and Hormex are
2 commercially available (chemical?) products. Also you can use
liquid Kelp products, which is what I use. it is organic and seems
to be a great rooting complex as well as a good seed soak and all
around fertilizer for micro nutrients. I do prefer to use organics
whenever possible.

A note on asperin, very few people know that asperin (real or
artificial) works topically, you can crush asperin and add water to
make a paste and put it on a burn, bee sting or tooth ache and it
works the same as swallowing a few pills and have it go into your
bllod stream without the stomach irritation.
also and lastly, if you want new willow trees simply leave them in
the bucket and they will root in the water, after they root simply
move them to a pot or a permanent area of the garden, just watch out
as willows can become invasive pest plants, although you cannot beat
a nice big weeping willow for shade.
- Matt
~~
From:  "Matthew Boeck" <mkboeck@hotmail.com> 
Date:  Thu Feb 26, 2004  10:38 am
Subject:  Re: what is willow water Jon?
Message 96033 

I use a 5 gal bucket filled with NON city water. Get a willow limb 
and cut 2-inch pieces. A good double handful. Put the willow pieces 
into an old pillow case, sock, etc. and tie the top. Toss it into 
the water bucket-it is better if the sock is weighted to the bottom 
of the bucket.

Sit it out in the sun for....3 or so days. Then use this water for 
rooting cuttings, or watering new transplants. (10 parts regular non 
city water to one part willow water).

Jon

There is no exact way to make it. I mix different blends at times for 
specific jobs. The above recipe is my basic one.
Subj: {OHG} What to buy on a weekly basis to build up your food storage over the 
year 
Date: 10/28/2002 11:08:22 PM Eastern Standard Time 
From:    tenzicut@yahoo.com (tenzicut)
 


Week 1 Nuts--get them on sale after Christmas. Drug stores are often 
a good source. Dry roasted keep best. Freeze bagged ones. 21 lbs. per 
person 
Week 2 Detergents, Bleaches, Cleansers. Bleach 1 gal per person, 
Laundry soap, 20 lbs per person. 

Week 3 Medicine Chest: feminine products, Pepto bismol, cough syrup, 
Tylenol, Calamine lotion, Kaopectate, Ipecac, sun screen, etc. 
Dispose of all outdated medications 

Week 4 Canned meats: Tuna, Spam, Dried Beef 

Week 5 First Aid supplies: Band aids, antibiotic ointment, Ace 
bandages, steri-strips, etc. 

Week 6 Fill your water jugs 

Week 7 Peanut butter 10 lbs per person 

Week 8 Solid vegetable shortening lbs. per person 

Week 9 Juices. Avoid watered products. Get 100% juice. 

Week 10 Toothpaste, floss, razors, shaving cream 

Week 11 Mixes, cake, pancake, muffin, etc. Purchase or make your own. 
counts for part of grain requirement. you need an annual total of 300 
lbs of grain products per person. 

Week 12 Spices and herbs---look for bargains at health food stores or 
ethnic food stores. 

Week 13 Rice buy 10, 15, or 20 pounds. Counts toward grain total 

Week 14 More First Aid: gauze patches, swabs. cotton balls, tape, 
etc. 

Week 15 Pasta. Select a variety. Counts toward grain total 

Week 16 Dry Milk. 100 lbs per person per year 

Week 17 - Assemble emergency sewing kit: thread, pins, needles, 
buttons, snaps, zippers, tape measure, scissors. 

Week 18 - Flour. Consider your families needs. 50 lbs per person? 
counts toward grain 

Week 19 - Dry or canned soup 

Week 20 - Gelatin or Pudding mixes 

Week 21 - Buy garden seeds locally, if you haven't mail ordered them. 
Get only what you will plant and eat. Also consider what you can 
preserve and eat. 

Week 22 - More Flour! 50 lbs per person total.. counts toward grains 

Week 23 - Cord, twine or light rope. Flashlights and batteries. 

Week 24 - Freeze cheese. Grate and freeze for casseroles or soups. 

Week 25 - Paper towels, aluminum foil, garbage bags. freezer bags, 
etc. 

Week 26 - Vinegars: If you make pickles, have several gallons on hand 

Week 27 - Condiments: mustard, mayo, relish, Worcestershire 

Week 28 - Jams and jellies. Buy what you will not make yourself. 

Week 29 - Canned goods. Buy what you eat. veggies: lbs. per person, 
fruits,: 80 quarts per person 

Week 30 - Canned milk Check Dec 1989 Ensign for use Ideas 

Week 31 - Back to school supplies and office supplies 

Week 32 - Baking powder, soda, cornstarch. Baking soda 2 lbs per 
person, soda albs per 

Week 33 - Tomatoes juice, sauce, whole or paste. Buy it or make it. 
part of veggies 

Week 34 - Canned Fruit, buy or can 80 quarts per person 

Week 35 - More canned fruits and veggies 150 total per person per 
year 

Week 36 - Buy an extra 25 pounds of sugar 100lbs per person total 

Week 37 - Can or freeze veggies from garden or fresh purchased, or 
buy more canned 150 lbs per person per year 

Week 38 - Dried beans, peas. 100 lbs per person 

Week 39 - Sweeteners. Honey, Molasses, etc. counts toward sugars 

Week 40 - Iodized Salt. Ten or more containers. For canning use, get 
canning salt. 

Week 41 - Personal products: soap, deodorant, toilet paper, shampoo, 
etc. Hand soap, 15 per person, TP: one roll per week 

Week 42 - Canned soups: counts toward veggies 

Week 43 - Can something with apples. 

Week 44 - Hard candy for Halloween. Leftovers will make a good 
addition to your 72 hour emergency kit. 

Week 45 - Vitamins. Get some extra C and Calcium. 365 vitamins per 
person. 

Week 46 - Treats for baking: Cocoa, coconut, nuts, chocolate chips, 
etc 

Week 47 - Rolled oats, corn meal, cream of wheat...Part of grains 

Week 48 - Sugars, brown, white, powdered. counts toward 100lbs per 
person total 

Week 49 - Vegetable and olive oils. Get a good quality. 12 lbs. per 
person 

Week 50 - Candles and matches. Put in a cool place and in a sturdy box
(preferably fireproof) that you can locate in the dark. 

Week 51 - Popcorn. Go for the big bags. Counts toward grains 

Week 52 - Merry Christmas. Give yourself a great gift--security for 
an extended period.

tenzicut
Someone was asking me about vegetables types and varieties for patio
gardening.. here is the list I compliled for a few possibilities..

Artichoke:
You will need a whiskey barrel sized pot. May I suggest "Violetto"?
http://www.territorial-seed.com/

Bean: Pole -
Get a 5 gallon bucket or a window box and set it on the deck. Run
rough string (baling twice type) from the rim of the bucket up the
wall and tack it there well. I dont know about your
apartment/building, but I could potentially have 2 window boxes side
by side and that would give me 4 feet of space and then run string
to the roof overhang of my balcony deck. You might as well have
colour as you wont have quantity. I suggest "Dragon Tongue" which is
cream with pruple stripes as we may not get ALOT from our balconies
and porches, but we may as well have unusual and c olourful.
http://www.territorial-seed.com/ and http://www.johnnyseeds.com/
has them. A couple catalogs have a bean seed mix and get muliple
colours from one planting.. you might plant 5-6 of them in a 5
gallon bucket or 3-4 inches apart in window boxes.

Beets:
It would probably be in your better interest to grow them for the
tops rather than the root. You can get crop after crop of the tops..
and I cant see 'wasting space' for the few beets you will get until
you pull them at the end of the season and then you will get a meal
out of them. I would rather use the space for carrots or something.
Beet varieties suggested for tops (which will hold better than
spinich and wont bolt) are
"Bull's Blood" http://www.territorial-seed.com/ or
http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp or "McGregors Favorite".

Celery: I have grown "Ventura" for years from http://www.territorial-
seed.com/ and they did excellent on my balcony last summer. There
are also red and yellow varieties of celery.. I would suggest
checking out http://seedsofchange.com as well.

Cucumbers:
Choices... Choices.. For green ones.. "Homemade Pickles"
http://www.territorial-seed.com/
for white ones "White Wonder" http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp or
yellow "Lemon" http://www.cooksgarden.com
See if you can use a tomato cage (or stack 2 cages.. top ring to top
ring and wire them together well, which is what I did last year) or
chicken wire.. or build a rustic twig trellis to let them climb on.

Corn:
Yes, there is a variety you can grow in containers "Blue Jade (aka
Baby Blue)" http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp it grows 2-3 ft tall
and produces 3-6 ears per plant.

Eggplant:
OK, you gotta grow this one.. it is just gorgeous!! "Listada de
Gandia" it made the cover of SSE catalog this year. But I have
grown the glamorous "Rosita" both are in
http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp

Lettuce.. which one CAN'T you grow in a pot. I like SSE for the rich
variety they have in their catalog. There are well over 350 kinds of
lettuce. My personal favorite is "Yugoslavian Red Butterhead" but
try lettuce mixes from Cooks Garden. http://www.cooksgarden.com/

Pea:
"Tom Thumb" from SSE http://www.seedsavers.org great for pots and
containers. Cold tolerant down to 20F. can be grown for a table
centerpiece.

Tomato - Try it.. whatever variety you have. I have had great
results with "Stupice", "Large Red Cherry" and "Silvery Fir Tree"..
try cherry tomatoes. I am growing about 8 kinds this year.

Flowers: I have tulips, daffodils, sweet william.. butterfly mix,
hostas, nastursiums and calundula on the go on my balcony.

Watermelon or other melons.. I did it last summer.. try one.. keep
them to 3 fruits per plant. I did "Moon & Stars". Try a muskmelon.
How about "Charantais"?

My mom raises lemons, oranges, limes and pineapples in her home in
Oregon. I have a friend here in zone 2/3 in BC who has oranges in
pots in her kitchen as well as 40 pineapple plants after I taught
her how to grow them. I have only a mere 4 on the go.


If you think it might work.. try it.. be creative.,. use odd
containers., I am saving my olive oil cans for pepper plants. How
about a old watering can? a Boot for herbs? use sets of 3.. 3 sizes
of terra cotta.... 3 concrete tiles of various sizes...put the
taller ones in the back. Use an old teapot and glasses or pitcher
and glasses. Look through flea markets, garage sales .. junk at the
dump..


tenzicut
Upper BC Canada
From:  Daniela Buia <danielabuia@virgilio.it> 
Date:  Fri May 28, 2004  7:32 am
Subject:  Re: Wild Roses
 
Hello- Up until now I've not participated, but just today I made rose
petal vinegar so it seemed appropriate for me to join in and share this
old italian recipe. By the way, I am in Italy, more precisely the
northern Lazio countryside in a turn of the century "tufo" (read stone)
farmhouse!
The best roses to use are exactly the "wild" kind that are full of
perfume and haven't been touched by any kind of chemical treatments.

You'll need about 2 cups (500 grams) of full red rose petals picked in
the early morning, preferably not fully opened ones. Wash them
delicately, checking for little bugs that may be attached and spread
them on a kitchen towel to dry. Then, using your fingernails,
carefully remove that little white spot at the bottom of each rose
petal. When they're dry, place them in a clean sterilized jar or
crock. Fill the jar with the best white wine vinegar that you've got
making sure there's no air caught between the petals. Close the jar
and put it in a cool, dark and dry place for 10 days. At the end of
the 10 days, carefully filter the vinegar and put it into a pretty new
clean bottle and seal. The vinegar will have all the perfume of the
roses and will have turned pink! Great on very mild tasting lettuce
greens.

Some people around here keep the used rose petals letting them dry out
again to make sachets.

Enjoy!

Daniela 
Cheap and Easy Worm Bin!
  
Composting with redworms is great for apartment dwellers who don't have yard 
space, or for those who don't want to hike to a backyard compost bin with their 
food scraps. Some kids like to keep worms for pets! By letting worms eat your 
food wastes, you'll end up with one of the best soil amendments available-worm 
castings. This is the cheapest and easiest to manage worm bin system that I've 
seen: 
Materials Needed to Make an Easy Harvester Worm Bin:
Two 8-10 gallon plastic storage boxes (dark, not see through!) as shown in 
pictures Cost: about $5 each 
Drill (with 1/4" and 1/16" bits) for making drainage & ventilation holes 
Newspaper 
About one pound of redworms 
 
Step 1 Drill about twenty evenly spaced 1/4 inch holes in the bottom of each 
bin. These holes will provide drainage and allow the worms to crawl into the 
second bin when you are ready to harvest the castings. 
 

Step 2  
Drill ventilation holes about 1 - 1 « inches apart on each side of the bin 
near the top edge using the 1/16 inch bit. Also drill about 30 small holes in 
the top of one of the lids. 
  
Step 3 
Prepare bedding for the worms by shredding Newspaper into 1 inch strips. Worms 
need bedding that is moist but not soggy. Moisten the newspaper by soaking it in 
water and then squeezing out the excess water. Cover the bottom of the bin with 
3-4 inches of moist newspaper, fluffed up. If you have any old leaves or leaf 
litter, that can be added also. Throw in a handful of dirt for "grit" to help 
the worms digest their food.  
  
Step 4 
Add your worms to the bedding. One way to gather redworms, is to put out a large 
piece of wet cardboard on your lawn or garden at night. The redworms live in the 
top 3 inches of organic material, and like to come up and feast on the wet 
cardboard! Lift up cardboard to gather the redworms. Or, if you wish to purchase 
worms, the Cooperative Extension office can give you names of suppliers in 
Whatcom County. An earthworm can consume about 1/2 of its weight each day. For 
example, if your food waste averages 1/2 lb. per day, you will need 1 lb. of 
worms or a 2:1 ratio. There are roughly 500 worms in one pound. If you start out 
with less than one pound, don't worry they multiply very quickly. Just adjust 
the amount that you feed them for your worm population. 

Step 5 
Cut a piece of cardboard to fit over the bedding, and get it wet. Then cover the 
bedding with the cardboard. (Worms love cardboard, and it breaks down within 
months.)

  
Step 6
Place your bin in a well-ventilated area such as a laundry room, garage, 
balcony, under the kitchen sink, or outside in the shade. Place the bin on top 
of blocks or bricks or upside down plastic containers to allow for drainage. You 
can use the lid of the second bin as a tray to catch any moisture that may drain 
from the bin. This "worm tea" is a great liquid fertilizer. 
  
Step 7
Feed your worms slowly at first. As the worms multiply, you can begin to add 
more food. Gently bury the food in a different section of the bin each week, 
under the cardboard. The worms will follow the food scraps around the bin. 
Burying the food scraps will help to keep fruit flys away. 
What do worms like to eat? Feed your worms a vegetarian diet. Most things that 
would normally go down the garbage disposal can go into your worm bin (see the 
list below). You will notice that some foods will be eaten faster than others. 
Worms have their preferences just like us. 
Feeding your worms: 


Worms LOVE:
  
Breads & Grains
Cereal
Coffee grounds & filter
Fruits
Tea bags
Vegetables 

Worms HATE:
 
Dairy Products
Fats 
Meat
Feces
Oils

When the first bin is full and there are no recognizable food scraps, place new 
bedding material in the second bin and place the bin directly on the compost 
surface of the first bin. Bury your food scraps to the bedding of the second 
bin. In one to two months, most of the worms will have moved to the second bin 
in search of food. Now the first bin will contain (almost) worm free 
vermicompost. (You can gently lift out any worms that might remain, and place 
them in the new bin, or put them into your garden!)

Troubleshooting
Problem 
Probable Cause 
Solution 
 
Worms are dying or trying to escape:
Too wet
Too dry
Bedding is used up 
Add more bedding
Moisten bedding
Harvest your bin 
 
Bin stinks! :
Not enough air
Too much food
Too wet 
Drill more ventilation holes
Do not feed for 1-2 weeks
Add more bedding  
Fruit Flys 
Exposed food 
Bury food in bedding 
 


http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/Easywormbin.htm

tenzicutWorm Types
From:   Michael Vanecek <mike@mjv.com> 
Date:  Sun Nov 23, 2003  2:35 pm

The best bin worms are eisenia foetida - redworms or tigerworms and
sometimes called red wrigglers (tho all bait store red wrigglers are
*not* necessarily eisenia foetida). You can get some at Seeds of Change.

http://www.seedsofchange.com/ - search for worms - the first choise -
"Red Wriggler Worms" will be what you want to select. I called them to
verify the species. Redworms multiply quickly, are classic compost worms
and eat a bunch of compost. Do a search thru OHG's archives for redworm
or eisenia foetida or wormbin and it'll pull up a few dialogues with
lotsa useful info...

That's where I got some time back and they're still munching away quite
happily in my 5-gallon bins here in my office...

Sun, 25 Aug 2002

"I Dare You" Part IV
This is one project that ANYONE has and can get the ingredients for. This "I 
Dare You" task is making Yogurt in your kitchen. Personally I don't like yogurt 
that is not frozen or dried on something like cranberries, but hubby likes it 
and I decided to make some yesterday to get him used to eating homemade yogurt 
before our goats came into milk. Cow milk yogurt will end up with a bit of whey 
at the top and goats milk will be creamer. To make this batch more creamy since 
I was using storebought cows milk, I had some leftover cream from making ice 
cream the other day.
     You need milk. I used regular homogenized milk from the store and one small 
container of unflavoured unsweetened yogurt from the store to obtain my yogurt 
culture. This is called `mothering'. I think I will get some Bulgarian yogurt 
culture from the OG store when I get milk from the girls. It is supposed to make 
a superior culture, but I cant verify that personally.
     OK. You need 2 quart sized jars.. ok.. well any jars with a lid that you 
can boil in water to sterilize, I would also run them through the dishwasher if 
I had one and leave it go at that.
     You know those insulated bags for keeping soda cool? I have a lunch sized 
one that will let 2 quart jars sit in there. You can also use blankets.
     You need one dairy thermometer. It is a glass thermometer from the 
kitchenwares department from your store.
     You need a stainless steel or glass pot such as Visionware.
     Ok, put 1 quart of milk in a pot (glass or SS) to heat to 110-115F. Watch 
it as it won't take long. Stir with your thermometer to get it all even 
temperature. Take the temperature towards the top of the liquid.. not the bottom 
of the pot.
     Mix a little of the warm milk in 2-3 TB of the yogurt to thin it out and 
then pour into the rest of the milk and stir well to get it mixed.
     Pour into your jars and tighten the lids. Then either wrap in blankets 
(wool or down preferably to retain heat) or pop into an insulated soda/lunch 
bag. Leave undisturbed for 4-6 hours and then when it looks like it is 
"yogurting" (mine was thinner than what I thought it ought to be but it firmed 
up overnight in the fridge) but the whole jar in the refrigerator overnight.
     When you want to make more yogurt, save the last 2-3 TB or so of yogurt 
from your last batch, and repeat the process.
     Pretty easy, eh?
tenzicut
 
