		MORE SURVIVAL KITS! 

These kits may very well duplicate themselves with previous survival kit list
If that is the case then delete whatever you don't want!



Date: Wed, 29 May 1996 18:35:34 -0400
Subject: HUGE compendium of survival lists & related info



Collected Wisdom - Survival Lists 
v 1.7.4 posted 5-2-96
Your use of this information is at your own risk.  Good Luck!

******************************************************************************
Surviving a life-threatening situation will generally require several elements,
including the will to survive and a proper mental attitude, physical fitness,
knowledge and skills (survival skills, first aid, wild plant identification,
land navigation, knotmaking, etc), and, finally, tools (which could include
survival manuals).  Anyone who focuses solely on tools without developing the
other elements may come to regret it.
******************************************************************************
These lists are nothing more than a reference tool for you to create your own
survival kit.  Your first step should be to stop and THINK.  For what
emergencies am I preparing?  How long am I likely to be on my own?

How much space do I have and how much weight can I carry?  How much 
am I willing to spend?

For instance, I live in eastern Virginia, which is reasonably populated, so I
believe there is little chance that I would ever be on my own for more than five
days.  Needless to say, if I lived or travelled in Alaska or Western states with
vast open spaces, I would have to change my assumptions dramatically!

Similarly, when I go winter camping, I bring extra supplies in the event I get
snowed in.

Next, you must determine the size and weight of your kit(s).  If you are
assembling something to keep in your pocket or briefcase, you will probably have
few tools and those that you have will be of a miniature variety (ie, a wire
saw).  On the other hand, a tool-box sized kit for your vehicle might contain a
heavier and more durable folding saw.

Finally, you must think about how much you are willing to spend.  If your total
budget is $100, it would be imprudent to spend $70 on a Leatherman Super Tool.
You might be better off picking up a used USAF survival knife for $10.  On the
other hand, quality matters, so don't be mislead by cheap low-quality gear.  Try
to make sure each item has more than one use.  And KISS!

******************************************************************************
Since this is my compendium, I will begin with my list:

(1) Survival Kit from Penrith Survival Equipment (contents listed below),
wrapped in plastic and sealed, in one pocket; [add extra hooks]

(2) Ziplock bag in another pocket contains: space blanket, thin pea-less plastic
whistle, disposable cigarette lighter, several water purification tablets,
pencil stub, bandages, some Spectra fishing line (high tensile strength and I
can sew with it), waterproof matches, needles, knife.  I will soon add a
teeny-tiny bottle of 100% DEET because I am sensitive to insect bites;

(3) depending on what I'm doing I would supplement with: first aid kit, larger
"storm" whistle, large 5" sheath knife (Busse Combat Knives), mini-hatchet
(Safety Pocket Ax from A.G. Russell (800) 255-9034 may not be available),
flashlight, water purification tablets, food, water filter-straw, snares, 550
cord, book on edible plants.

To the degree possible, I like to split the contents among the pockets of my
parka or use a discreet all-black fannie pack.

Will I be COMFORTABLE in the woods with just this?  No.  Will I be ALIVE in the
woods with just this?  No guarantees, but these tools help give me a fighting
chance!

******************************************************************************
The following lists were culled from the best survival books on the market. 
Each book is worth a place in your library!  
Any errors/ommissions are mine.  
Please refer to the listed book for more information.  
******************************************************************************

THE SAS SURVIVAL HANDBOOK John Wiseman

Survival Kit (Pocket-Size):
	Matches
	Candle
	Flint
	Magnifying Glass
	Needles and Thread
	Fishoooks and Line
	Compass
	Beta Light [the only known source is Penrith Survival Equipment, 
			see below for more]
	Snare Wire
	Flexible Saw (wire saw)

Medical Kit:
	pain reliever
	intestinal seditive
	antibiotic
	antihistimine
	water sterilizing tablets
	anti-malaria tablets
	potassium permanganate
	Surgical Blades
	Butterfly Sutures
	Plasters (band-aids)
	Condom

Survival Pouch (larger kit):
	Mess Tin
	Fuel
	Flashlight
	Flares
	Marker Panel (surveyor's tape?)
	Matches
	Brew Kit (tea kit) [Those Brits!  Of course, it's easy to make fun of 
		this item, but peace of mind in an emergency is an important
		consideration.  For you it may be cards, smokes, or even a 
		harmonica]
	Clear Plastic Bag
	Food
	Knife & sharpener
	...all in a waterproof pouch 

*************************************************************
THE URBAN SURVIVAL HANDBOOK John Wiseman

Standard Kit:
	Paper Money
	Coins
	Phonecard
	Paper and pencil stub
	Needle and Thread
	Tiny Flashlight
	Safety Pins
	Tweezers
	Tiny Scissors
	Aspirin/Pacetamol
	Scalpel blade
	Magnifying lens
	Bandages
	Whistle

... and add to it your personal necessities: 
	tiny screwdriver
	antihistimine tablets
	other medicines
	tampons
	condoms
	spare contact lenses
	matches

*******************************************************
THE BACKPACKER'S HANDBOOK Hugh McManners

Useful Equipment:
	Swiss Army Knife
	can opener
	map 
	waterproof matches
	flashlight
	compass
	map
	binoculars

Survival Kit:
	fishing line	
	scalpel
	pencil stub
	safety pins
	thin wire
	mirror
	wire saw
	fishing hooks and sinkers
	potassium permanganate

	sewing kit (large-eyed needles, waterproof thread, large buttons)

	clear plastic bag [multiple uses include putting around tree branches in
				bright sunlight to produce water]
	button compass
	antibiotics
	magnifying glass
	salt
	bandages
	water sterilizers
	matches
	...in a storage tin

[the Editor suggests you consider skipping the pencil stub and instead use an
ink-pen refill cartridge.  The best would be from Fisher Space Products in
Boulder City Nevada (702) 293-3011 because they are sealed, write well under
adverse conditions, and won't rub off like pencil.] 

******************************************************************************
BACKPACKER MAGAZINE  June 1995

Always carry:
	Knife
	cigarette lighter
	garbage bag
	
10 Essentials:
	knife
	lighter
	garbage bag
	water bottles
	high-energy food
	map & compass
	rain gear
	warm clothes
	signal whistle & mirror
	medical kit
	sunglasses
	flashlight (headlamp) with spare batteries & bulb
	firestarter
	iodine
	emergency kit (fishooks, nylon cord, etc)

[note there are more than 10 items because nobody agrees on which items to
include!]

*************************************************************
COMMON SENSE SURVIVAL FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS Bob Newman
[mini guide to surviving for 5 days]

Five-Day Survival Kit:

First Aid
	6 2"x2" gauze pads
	6 4"x4" gauze pads
	roll of standard medical gauze tape
	assortment of povidone iodine wipes
	eye patch
	antibiotic/antiseptic cream
	package of steri-strips
	moleskin
	bandage scissors & tweezers
	1 3" elastic bandage
	1 3" gauze roller bandage
	Sawyer brand Extractor Kit (snake & insect bites)
	2 cravats

Signals
	sturdy plastic whistle
	pencil flare launcher with 6 flares
	shatterproof signal mirror
	sturdy flashlight with extra batteries
	extra bullets/shells if you have a firearm
	several strips (3"x12") international orange cloth

Fire
	1 35mm film canister with cotton balls coated with petroleum jelly
	magnesium block with striker
	commercial tinder sticks
	magnifying glass
	butane lighter
	waterproof container of wooden "strike anywhere" kitchen matches

Food and Water
	100 yards 15 lb. test fishing line
	hooks, mostly small
	1 packaged prepared catfish/scavanger bait
	1 botttle PotableAqua brand, halazone, or iodine tabs for H20 
	10' surgical tubing
	2 plastic collapsible containers
	1 clear pastic bag, large
	1 dry compressed sponge (unused)

Shelter
	1 solar blanket
	50' parachute cord
	several chemical heat packs
	wiresaw
	1 8'x8' tarp, reflective on one side
	3 survival candles

Other
	fixed or lock-blade knife
	Silva compass
	topographic map
	spare eyeglasses/sunglasses
	spare wool hat
	aspirin or tylenol
	prescription medicine
	other items unique to your needs

******************************************************************************
SURVIVAL FM-2176 June 1992 (US Army)

Issues to think about: (p 3-3)
	first-aid
	water purification
	fire starting
	signaling
	food procurement
	shelter

Items to include: (p 3-3)
	lighter, metal match, waterproof matches
	snare wire
	signal mirror
	wrist compass
	fish and snare line
	fishooks
	candle
	small hand lens
	oxytetracycline tablets (diarrhea or infection)
	water purification tablets
	solar blanket
	surgical blades
	butterfy sutures
	condoms for water storage
	chap stick
	needle & thread
	knife
	
SURVIVAL KITS (Appendix A):

COLD Climate Kit
	food packets
	snare wire
	smoke, illumination signals
	waterproof match box
	saw/knife blade
	wood matches
	first-aid kit
	MC-1 magnetic compass
	pocket knife
	saw-knife-shovel handle
	frying pan
	illuminating candles
	compressed trioxand fuel
	signal mirror
	survival fishing kit
	plastic spoon
	survival manual (AFM 64-5)
	poncho
	insect headnet
	shovel
	water bag
	packing list
	sleeping bag

HOT Climate Kit
	canned drinking water
	waterproof matchbox
	plastic whistle
	smoke, illumination signals
	pocket knife
	signal mirror
	plastic water bag
	first-aid kit
	sunscreen
	plastic spoon
	food packets
	compressed trioxane fuel
	fishing tackle kit
	MC-1 magnetic compass
	snare wire
	frying pan
	wood matches
	insect headnet
	reversible sun hat
	tool kit
	kit, packing list
	tarp
	survival manual (AFM 64-5)
	
OVERWATER Kit
	kit, packing list
	raft boat paddle
	survival manual (AFM 64-5)
	insect headnet
	reversible sun hat
	water storage bag
	MC-1 magnetic compass
	boat bailer
	sponge
	sunscreen
	wood matches
	first aid kit
	plastic spoon
	pocket knife
	food packets
	flourescent sea marker
	frying pan
	seawater desalter kit
	compressed trioxane fuel
	smoke, illumination signals
	signal mirror
	fishing tackle kit
	water proof match box
	raft repair kit

******************************************************************************
SURVIVAL: A MANUAL THAT COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE Chris & Gretchin Janowsky (Paladin
Press)
[geared toward long-term survival]

Chris runs the World Survival Institute in Tok, Alaska and is a regular
contributor to the American Survival Guide.  The WSI can be reached at (907)
883-4243 or by writing to Box 394C, Tok, Alaska, 99780  He also produces
videotapes, including a set of 4 wilderness survival tapes, 5 combat martial
arts tapes, and 5 emergency response tapes.  Beware of imitators selling his
Tracking & Ambush tape!

This is his 1980s-era list:

SURVIVAL BELT:
	belt pack 4"x5"x2" waterproof nylon
	small folding knife 3" blade
	knife sharpener (E-Z Lap Diamond Sharpener)
	1 2" flint
	1 large safety pin
	waterproof tape
	ziplock plastic bag
	nylon twine
	wire ring saw
	1 container firestarter
	flashlight micro-lithium
	spool wire
	gaff hook
	1 nail
	3 small animal snares
	1 fishing kit 
	metal signal mirror

FISHING Kit (p 56):
	4-1/2" x 3" x 1-1/4" box
	4 assorted dry flies #12 hooks
	4 assorted dry flies #14 hooks
	3 large lead jigs in assorted colors #4 hooks
	4 small ice fishing jigs, assorted colors #12 hooks
	6 lead-lined jigs, assorted colors #6 hooks
	6 short shank #4 hooks
	4 short shank #14 hooks
	4 short shabk #2 hooks
	6 long shank #4/0 hooks
	1 gaff hook #8/0 hook
	3 swedish pimples, assorted sizes (ice fishing jigs)
	2 large safety pins
	1 band-tied 3-hook worm harness
	1 Rapella lure
	1 red & white Dare-devil
	1 small gold spoon
	1 small silver-spoon
	1 container floating fly dope
	6 4" plastic worms
	3 2" plastic worms
	6 3-way swivels
	6 ball-bearing snap swivels
	assortment of lead weights
	1 tapered fly line
	50 yards 18# test braided nylon squidding line
	1 steel leader 8"
	3 nylon leaders 20" each
	container fish poison

MEDICAL Kit:
	1 sterile 2" Kling bandage
	tweezers
	scissors
	5 bandaids
	1 package Tums
	4 sterile 3"x3" dressings
	4 sterile 4"x4" dressings
	1 sterile adaptic 4"x4" dressing
	1 3x5 moleskin
	4 individual application tubes antibiotic ointment
	1 eyewash applicator with saline solution
	1 pkg aspirin
	triangular bandage
	4 alcohol prep pads
	4 butterfly bandages

LARGE SURVIVAL Kit for indefinite survival:
	sewing awl
	needle nose pliers with wire cutter
	needle
	dental floss (for sewing)
	folding knife
	Sierra saw (folding)
	ring saw
	survival saw
	snow shovel
	visqueen (heavy plastic tarp)
	water generator
	3'x3' signal cloth
	fishing kit: safety pins, 150' 18 lb line, hooks, floats, bait, etc
	multivitamins
	protein tablets
	hard candy
	dried eggs
	dried milk
	tent cloth
	file
	silverware
	3 space blankets
	compass
	signal mirror
	2 sky blazers
	4 candles
	micro-lithium flashlight, battery, bulb
	firestarter
	matches
	butane lighter
	flint
	bug dope (GI)
	12 snares
	spool snare wire
	plastic drinking tube
	2 heavy zip-lock bags
	p38 can opener
	water purification tablets
	sling shot rubber and ammo
	diamond knife sharpener
	whistle
	towel & facecloth
	soap
	2 orange smoke signals
	75 yards 42 lb nylon twine
	75' nylon cord
	1 pair work gloves
	metal cup
	mess kit
	small grill
	mousetrap
	1 roll surveyors tape
	folding water jug

*******************************************************************
WORLD SURVIVAL INSTITUTE Chris Janowsky (907) 883-4243 (see above for more)

This is Chris' 1996 list.  Note how it has evolved.

SURVIVAL KIT
	complete fishing kit
	gill net
	awl with extra thread
	25 ft 550 cord
	carton cutter (razor knife)
	solar battery charger for AA batteries, with rechargeable batteries
	signal mirror	
	magnifying glass
	2 pre-made wire snares
	bug dope (insect repellant)
	camo paint kit
	Katadyne H2O purifier
	extra H2O purification tablets
	spool of nylon twine, with capped center holding safety pins and sewing
needles
	2 compasses (1 regular, 1 lensatic)
	duct tape
	waterproof notepad with pens and pencils
	space blanket
	thermometer
	Altibaro (combination altimeter and barometer)
	spool of tripwire

SPEED POUCH INSIDE SURVIVAL KIT:
	lock-back knife
	EZ-Lap diamond knife sharpener
	WSI Hot Spark flint
	firestarter
	small flashlight
	slingshot rubber
	surveyor's tape
	electrolytes
	
MEDICAL KIT
	6 3X3 gauze pads
	4X4 gauze pads (6 doubles, 4 singles)
	3 4X5 Kling bandages
	3 3X5 Kling bandages
	1 field dressing
	10 Adaptic nonadhering dressings
	triangular bandage
	Ace bandage
	addorted bandaids
	assorted rolls of tape, 1 waterproof
	safety pins, various sizes
	moleskin
	swab sticks
	field surgical instruments
	assorted sizes od suture thread and needles
	iodine
	antibiotic cream/ointment
	Lanacane cream
	eyedrops
	Tylenol
	Bactine
	potassium iodine tablets
	ground yarrow flowers and leaves
	Tums
	vitamins
	toothbrush
	dental powder
	dental floss
	snake bite kit (optional)
	
FANNY PACK
	fishing line, 2 kinds
	small crookneck flashlight
	mousetrap
	book: Survival, A Manual That COuld Save Your Life
	waterproof collection bag
	net bag
	2 ponchos
	100 ft 550 cord
	sierra saw with extra blade
	3 heavy-duty water bags
	6 regular water bags

MISC ITEMS FOR BELT
	canteen with drinking/cooking cup and outside pocket for water tablets
	large knife with sheath
	
*******************************************************************
CAMPING AND WOODCRAFT Horace Kephart (1917) 
[reprinted in 1988 by the University of Tenessee Press]

This short list does not do justice to this work.  This book contains over 800
pages of outdoor skills, from different types of fires for different purposes to
diet and cooking to how to build temporary and permanent shelters.  The
hardcover costs US$29.00 and will give you a lifetime of pleasure.  While
outdoor technology has improved in the past 75 years, most of the skills he
teaches have not changed in 1000 years.

hatchet [the editor strongly recommends a small (1# head) hatchet]
sheath knife (heavy or wet jobs)
pocket knife (fine jobs/surgery)
compass
watch
whistle
maps
paper & pen
matches in waterproof container
flashlight
spare eyeglasses
first aid kit
repair kit: small scissors, tweezers, dental floss, needle, safety pins
	rubber band, shoelace, twine, snare wire, rigged fishline,
	hooks, split shot, etc
toilet articles: towel, soap, toothbrush, comb, mirror

**************************************************************
BACKPACKING ONE STEP AT A TIME Harvey Manning

The Ten Essentials:
1. Extra Clothing
2. Extra Food
3. Sunglasses
4. Knife
5. Fire Starter
6. Matches
7. First-Aid Kit
8. Flashlight
9. Map
10. Compass
*. Whistle
*. Sunscreen
*. Insect Repellant
* Repair Kit: cloth tape, ripstop tape, thread, needles, awl and coarse
	thread, safety pins, clevis pins, nylon cord, light steel wire,
	nails and screws, pliers
*. Toilet Kit: toothbrush & paste, soap, small towel, polished steel 
	mirror, comb, hankerchief
*. Other: fishing tackle, notepad & pencil, etc
	
**********************************************************************
SPORTS AFIELD OUTDOOR SKILLS Frank Golad

special sections on:
Swiss Army Knife
Super Glue
Survival Food: Amway Nutrilite bars
Monofilament

Pocket-Sized Survival:
	wooden matches in waterproof container OR butane lighter
	cotton balls
	thick candle
	instant soup or bouillon cubes
	concentrated food or candy
	small folding knife
	small compass
	Band-Aids
	several feet heavy fishing line (20- or 30-lb test)
	fishooks and 1 or 2 jigs or flies
	...and possibly:
		survival book
		field guide to edible plants
		snake-bite kit
		aluminum foil
	
Survival Fishing Kit:
	few hooks various sizes and styles
	couple trout lines (Wolly Worm patterns size 6 or 8)
	10 feet mono line at least 10-lb test
	rubber bands
	...all in a 35mm container that can double as a float

******************************************************************************
AMERICAN SURVIVAL GUIDE Daniel C. Friend (March 1990)

				INVENTORY for BASIC SURVIVAL KIT:

SHELTER and WARMTH
	"Emergency" space blanket or bag
	heavy duty plastic trash bag (2.5 mil)
	550 parachute cord 25'
	9' transparent vinyl mending tape (wrap around flashlight)

WATER
	heavy-duty plastic water bag (large heavy-duty ziplock bag will do)
	iodine-based water tablets
	large cotton bandana or triangular bandage 

HEAT, LIGHT, and SIGNALING
	9-hour candle
	waterproof match case
	waterproof strike-anywhere matches
	2 bithday candles
	disposable lighter
	magnesuim firestarter
	card-type magnifying lens [fresnel?]
	police whistle on lanyard [beware of metal whistles they freeze to lips
						in cold]
	stainless steel double-surface signal mirror
	AA or AAA flashlight with fresh batteries
	50' surveyor's tape
	3"x5" cards and pen

KNIVES and TOOLS
	swiss ary knife or leathermean tool
	knife sharpener (opposed tungsten carbide tips)
	hemostats
	small "ignition point" file
	6" sharpened piece of hacksaw blade 
	4" extra-heavy duty sewing needle
	6 heavy duty rubber bands

DIRECTION FINDING
	good quality liquid-filled luminous compass

FIRST AID
	clean cotton bandana or triangular bandage (see WATER)
	hemostats (see KNIVES and TOOLS)
	flexible fabric band-aids of various sizes
	handiwipes
	insect repellant
	aspirins or Tylenol
	moleskin or mole foam
	Pepto Bismol

GENERAL
	mosquito headnet (for fishing or insects)
	safety pins, 2 large 4 medium
	telephone change
	snare wire, brass or copper
	survival cards

IN ADDITION TO THE BASIC SURVIVAL KIT ALWAYS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS IN YOUR
PACK:
	individual ready-to-eat canned food (sardines, etc)
	detailed map
	separate first-aid kit, including prescription medications
	small transistor radio
	extra pair eyeglasses in unbreakable case

				INVENTORY for AUGMENTATION KIT:

FIRST AID
	4 3"x3" sterile pads
	1 roll 2" cling bandage
	trial size pack Coricidin D decongestant tablets
	blister pack of 9 Cepacol throat lozenges
	blister pack Pepto Bismol tablets
	Neosporin antibiotic ointment
	extra sefety pins
	6 flexible fabric band-aids

SHELTER and WARMTH
	4'x7' poly blanket or extra space blanket
	9-hour candle
	25' 550 parachute cord
	small disposable lighter

FOOD and WATER
	2 tins sardines
	heavy duty nylon spoon
	snare wire
	mosquito head net
	iodine water purification tablets
	plastic water bag

SIGNALING
	spare batteries for flashlight

******************************************************************************
HOW TO STAY ALIVE IN THE WOODS Bradford Angier

Survival Kit (Chapter 25)

Hudson Bay Company Emergency Kit contents:
	tea bags 28
	vitamin pills 50
	pilot bread 30 oz.
	butter 16 oz.
	strawberry jam 14-1/2 oz.
	Klik 12 oz. (meat product?)
	condensed milk 14 oz.
	chocolate bars 10.5 oz.
	matches 100
	knife 1
	spoon 1
	whistle 1
	double-faced mirror 1
	fishing line 1
	fishhooks 4
	snare wire 1 oz.
	candles 2
	Kleenex tissue (small amount)
	camphor

Being Ready (chapter 26)
	first come matches
	then the compass
	adhesive bandage
	glasses
	watch
	map
	mirror
	magnifying glass
	knives
	ax
	saw
	carborundum (whetsone)
	gun and ammunition
	sleeping provisions
	tent or tarp
	flashlight
	whistle
	binoculars or telescope
	insect repellant
	fishing gear
	writing materials
	water purifier
	cooking outfit
	survival rations
	rope or cord
	toilet kit
	medicine kit
	extra clothing
	portable memory

*******************************************************************
72-HOUR EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS CHECKLIST Barry & Lynette Crockett

[too long to include; the whole book is a list geared toward family survival in
emergencies--covers everything from food & water & toiletries to the importance
of mental-well being using teddy bears and other such items for children]

******************************************************************
EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS FOR MISSIONARIES Barry & Lynette Crockett

annotated list of topics:
Emergeny Evacuation Plan
Risk Probability Checklist
72-Hour Kit
Finding Safe Water in an Emergency
[every natural disaster has a topic]
Hazmat Accidents
Civil Disturbances
Developing National Emergency

******************************************************************************
******************************************************************************
Commercially available survival kits are available from:

PENRITH SURVIVAL EQUIPMENT
The Square
Morland
Penrith
Cumbria CA 3AZ United Kingdom
postage: 4 first-class stamps; best to use a credit card to avoid currency
problems
Telephone 01931 714444
Facsimile 01931 714450

SURVIVAL KIT R1016 - British Pounds 17.50 (appx $US 26.25)
"This kit contains over 30 essential items esch carefully chosen and having
several uses.  Included are items for navigation (with plastic button compass),
first aid, water purifying/carrying, fishing, firestarting, cooking, cutting,
signaling, writing equipment, etc.  Full instructions on use of contents and
first aid, plus emergency message form and pencil are included.  Pocket sized.
200g."

[This kit appears to be modeled on the survival list published by John Wiseman
in the SAS Survival Handbook (above).  For an additional 10 Pounds (appx
$US15.00), you can upgrade to Combat Survival Kit R1013, which is identical
except for the inclusion of a button compass made of brass instead of plastic.
On the other hand for $15.00 you can get a pretty accurate Silva compass.]

[The editor received his Survival Kit on 3-18-96.  It is a tin securely wrapped
in waterproof tape.  The contents are listed as follows: Tin (cooking pot,
drinking cup) with detachable handle, lid with heliograph, miniature plastic
button compass, hacksaw blade with knife, stainless steel wire saw, wind and
waterproof matches with striker, flint and steel firelighter, candle, cotton
wool, potassium permanganate, water carrier, snare, fish hooks (3) [very tiny!
you may want to supplement!], 10m fishing line, puritabs (6), single edged razor
blades (2), adhesive dressings, safety pins, needles (2), thread, lipsalve, salt
and dextrose tablets, survival aids-memoire, emergency message form, pencil,
masking tape, waterproof label. Detailed instructions on the various uses of the
contents together with survival and first aid information are included on
waterproof paper  Contents may occasionally vary due to availability.  The tin
appears to be very solidly packed; there is no rattle when I shake it.  THIS IS
THE BEST COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE SURVIVAL KIT I HAVE SEEN TO DATE.]

WALKERS GO PACK R1015 - British Pounds 7.95 (appx $US 12.00)
"A neat pocket-sized pack containing all the essential survival aids for a hill
walker or climber.  Packed in a welded pouch with a see-through front and Velcro
flap.  15.5 x 12.5cm.  210g.  Contents include: survival bag, permanent match,
perry whistle, miniature compass, adhesive dressings, Puritabs, pencil,
emergency message form, mint cake, waterproof Survival Aide Memoire"

[The editor received his Walker's Go Pack 3-18-96.  It is somewhat larger than
the Survival Kit (above).  It is sealed with Velcro in a bright yellow plastic
sleeve with a clear front.  The contents include: 7' x 3' 120-guage plastic
survival bag [very thin...would tear easily], windproof matches (5) and striker,
instructions and first aid information and emergency message form on waterproof
paper, perry whistle, mini compass, water sterilization tablets (6), adhesive
dressings (3), mint cake (30g) [expires July 31 1996], pencil stub.  Clearly,
this is designed to keep you alive 1 or 2 nights--just long enough for the user
to get out of the woods (using compass or whistle).  Is this a worthwhile
purchase?  Not for Americans.  When you consider the cost (about $12.00 plus air
freight -- probably another $5.00) you can assemble a better kit on your own.
Here's a quick and dirty shopping list: emergency blanket ($3), mini compass
($4), and emergency whistle ($1.50) from Major Surplus & Survival 800/441-8855,
Bic Lighter ($1) at your drugstore, Potable Aqua ($4) and Survival Candy ($1.10)
from Survival Supply Co. 916/621-3836.  Add your own pencil stub, paper,
bandages, and a large clear plastic garbage bag and drop them all in a ziplock
bag.  Total cost is about $15.00 and you have a better emergency blanket, more
candy, more water tablets ... you get the picture.]

[It would cost too much to return this item, so here is what I did: removed the
plastic bag and replaced with $3 space blanket, removed the mint cake, added
lighter, added miniature flint & steel, and add a small knife (Swiss Army or a
folder such as the AFCK-800S or a mini blade such as Busse Combat Recruit).
Together with the Survival Kit, I now have a good combo that unobtrusively fits
in two pockets.]

BETA LIGHT L3280 - British Pounds 54.95 (appx $US 83.00)
"A self-illuminated unit, the Betalight Torch is compact, robust, and has an
in-service life of over 10 years.  Illuminates well without affecting night
vision.  This torch works without batteries, light being provided by a glass
capsule internally phosphor-coated and filled with tritium gas which activates
the phosphor to emit light."

[The editor received his beta light 3-18-96.  It is ruggedly constructed and
emits a dim green light.  There is no on/off switch; there is merely a flap that
can be opened or closed.  How bright is it?  I would compare it to the newer
watches that glow green such as the Timex Indiglo.  It is bright enough to read
a map, find a keyhole, or possibly lure fish.  Don't expect to cook dinner or
follow a trail with it!  My beta light has the following markings: SAUNDERS-ROE
DEV LTD HAYES MIDDX UK NATO No X4/6260-00-965-3582 BETALIGHT T19c1]

******************************************************************************
Other sources for survival gear:

Major Surplus & Survival, Inc.
435 W. Alondra Blvd.
Gardenia, CA 90248
(310) 324-8855
(800) 441-8855
fax (310) 324-6909

Survival Supply Co.
PO Box 1745
Shingle SPrings, CA 95682
(916) 621-3836
fax (916) 621-0928

[a cheapskate's paradise!]

Nitro-Pak Preparedness Center
151 N. Main Street
Herber City, UT 84032
(801) 654-0099
fax (801) 654-3860

Brigade Quartermasters
1025 Cobb International Blvd
Kennesaw, GA 30152-4300
(770) 428-6870
(800) 338-4327
fax (800) 892-2999


******************************************************************************
******************************************************************************
The following lists were found on the Internet.  If any author would like me to
add, modify or delete an entry, please let me know.  Remember, ANY IDIOT CAN
POST TO THE INTERNET and can make him- or herself sound authoritative.  Rely on
your own judgment as you read everything that follows!!! 
******************************************************************************
******************************************************************************
From: Edward Lawrence <eal>


Ed's Flight Emergency Kit

        Please note:  This is similar to a 'bug-out bag', but the purpose is to
survive for a few days, until located by searchers.  Since the items I have
picked for my kit will be used after a forced landing, they are weighted toward
medical and shelter, with long term survival last in priority.  In the event
of a forced landing in unsetteled, rough terrain, you can expect to survive no
more than three days.  No food items are included as you won't starve to death
in this time.  This obviously is not acceptable in a 'bug-out bag', so add to
my list for such needs.
        This is posted with an expectation of CONSTRUCTIVE comment.  Please, no
flames!  Positive comments accepted, negative individuals will not get a reply.

1. FISKARS (tm)  Stainless Hunting knife, 5 in. blade, sheath with sharpener.
2. First Aid Kit, sealed, 2 1/2 dia x 7 1/2 in long.  Contains:
        1 collapsible drinking cup
        6 adhesive bandages
        1 roll adhesive tape
        1 TYLENOL (tm) packette
        1 sterile gauze pad
        1 antiseptic wipe
        2 First Aid Creme packettes
        1 moist towlette
        1 windshield cleaner
        1 Highway Distress Banner
        1 First Aid Booklet
        (I don't expect the winshield cleaner or highway banner to be useful
        but do not want to break the seal to remove them from the packet.)
        Mfg. by QUEEN CITY Group, Inc.
3.  J & J Band-Aids (32 ea.).
4.  J & J Antiseptic wipes (10 ea.)
5.  J & J Adhesive Tape (1 roll)
6.  J & J Instant Cold Pack.
7.  Deep Woods OFF (tm)
8.  Survival Signaling Mirror, Air Force Type Mfg by
    Safesport Manf. Co, Denver, Co 80202
9.  1 SILVA (tm) Type 3 Compass
10. 1 fondue candle 1 1/2 in. dia x 5/8 in deep, in aluminum holder.
11. 2 pack of disposable butane lighters.
12. SKYBLAZERS (tm) SURVIVAL Belt Pack.  Contains:
        3 RED Flares
        1 Green Dye Markers for water or snow
        1 Orange Banner
13. 2 J & J 4x4 Sterile Pads
14. 1 J & J 3x3 Sterile Pad
15. 1 J & J First Aid Guide
16. 2 Band-Aid Knuckle bandage
17. 2 Emergency Blankets (poly, the cheap ones)
18. 1 roll Nylon Twine, #18, 260 ft.
19. 1 SURVIVAL(tm) whistle/compass/waterproof match holder, mirror.
        appx 1 in dia. x 5 in. long.
20. 1 tweezers
21. CHARTER ARMS(tm) EXPLORER II .22 pistol & 250 rounds of .22 LR HP ammo
22. 1 tube #30 sunscreen
23. 1 Emergency flashlight, hand operated generator type. (Made in Russia!)
        purchaced from Black Feather Electronics 1-800-526-3717  EL-1 $7.95

All of the above fits in a small tackle box, appx 7 x 7 x 14 inches. wt 9 lbs.

In addition, in my Map case, I carry a large Fresnel lens, appx 8x10 inches.
This is to start fires.  Takes up almost no space.  Also, in my map case are
more survival instructions on Plastic cards, bound together at one corner by
a plastic grommet.  These tell me what is safe to eat, hand and ground signals,
etc.

Also, I have a reversable Flight jacket.  Dark Blue on the outside,
International Orange on the inside.  And a similar roll up cap.  I purchaced
these items from ALOHA Surplus, Hillsboro, OR. when I was up there last
summer.    And I also carry a 2-man tent.

I have no connection with any organization that sells or produces and of the
items mentioned above.  I am writing this list for your inspection, and assume
no responsibility for how this information is used.

****************************************************************************
From: medintz@falcon.cc.ukans.edu (Mike S. Medintz)

Buck Special 6", with leather sheath and with the grip wrapped in friction tape.
Gerber Gator 4"
Pliers (channellock-type)
P-38 can opener
"church key" can opener
1 bottle of Polar Pure(tm) water purifier.
3-1qt canteens
army-surplus ripstop poncho with liner
2D Mag-Lite with extra bulb and batteries
Silva model 15 compass
200 wooden matches
flint striker
sierra cup
coffee can
1/2 pound beef jerky
1 pound hardtack
20 tea bags (always the caffeine hound)
1 bottle, homemade hot sauce (I'll give out the recipe if you ask nicely)
1/2 pound, dried fruit
wool shirt
one pair wool socks
one set, long underwear
one pair, wool fatigue pants
10 3"x3" gauze pads
10 butterfly bandages
15 1"x3" bandages
2 3"x180" gauze roller bandages
1 roll, waterproof tape
3 8"x10" compress bandages
4 oz., povidone-iodine scrub
1 bar, Ivory.
toothbrush
extra bootlaces
50' parachute cord
one roll, duct tape

The Buck Special, compass, 1 canteen, and one of the large compress bandages I
keep lashed to the outside of a backpack. Everything else rides inside 

**********************************************************************
From: davistm@aol.com (DavisTM)


The intent is for this kit to be very compact, portable (fits into a large fanny
pack), relatively inexpensive, and provide the basics of food, water, shelter,
and medical supplies.


2 - 3600 kcal food rations
6 - 250mL water rations (1/day/person if water cannot be found)
1 - bottle water purification tablets (50)
1 - bottle potassium iodide tablets (14)
2 - emergency blankets
2 - plastic ponchos
1 - magnesium fire starter
6 - 18 hr. heat packs
3 - 12 hr. lightsticks
1 - signal mirror
1 - emergency flare
1 - flashlight/locator strobe
4 - AA batteries (for above)
1 - emergency whistle 
1 - multi-function shears (like EMT shears with Swiss Army knife functions too)
1 - 50 ft. nylon rope
1 - pkg. toilet tissue
1 - Life Card (compass, survival tips, fresnel lens, etc.)
1 - snake bite kit
4 - 4x6 field dressings
1 - 250mL sterile water (U.S.P. for first aid use)
1 - trauma pack  (see below)
1 - first aid & meds pack  (see below)

Trauma Pack:
2 - 2" sterile gauze wraps
2 - 4" sterile gauze wraps
1 - triangular bandage
5 - 4x4 sterile gauze pads
5 - 4x4 sterile burn dressings
1 - 3" elastic bandage
2 - bloodstopper bandages
1 - cold pack
2 - 8x10 absorbent pads
2 - eye pads
1 - 1" waterproof tape
1 - pkg. wound closure strips
2 - mini isolation kits

Meds Pack:
20 -1x3 adhesive bandages
5 - ex. large bandages
1 - 4 oz. burn cream
1 - lip balm
3 - ammonia inhalants
10 - antiseptic towelettes
10 - hydrocortisone cream packets
10 - triple antibiotic ointment packets
1 - 1 oz. dibucaine ointment
1 - 15 mL eye drops
1 - 1/2 oz. anti-fungal cream
10 - decongestant packets (2 tablets)
15 - ibuprofen packets
15 - extra-strength Tylenol packets
10 - antihistamine packets
10 - diarrhea relief packets
10 - Pepto-Bismol packets

Please note that the omission of any hunting, fishing, or cooking
supplies, and the lack of any guns or other similar weapons is
intentional.  This pack is not designed to be a "lets go live in the
wilderness for 6 months because the global economy has collapsed (as
predicted), there are riots in the streets (also predicted), and the "New
World Order" (whatever that means) has taken over and their first order of
business is to take everyone's guns (predicted)".  Rather, this is a basic
survival kit designed to keep 2 people alive for at least 72 hours in the
event of an earthquake (or similar natural disaster), stranded car in the
middle of the desert or a blizzard, light plane crash, etc.


***********************************************************************
From: elkins@galileo.mis.net (Sean Elkins)


Some items that I would consider adding:

*Boots or hiking shoes
*Currency-money orders if you are preparing for natural disaster, precious
metals if the breakdown of society is what you fear.
*Folding cookstove (sterno type?)
*Duct tape
*Small emergency shelter (tarp, tube tent or bivy sack)
*A cap in a dark neutral color
*Towel
*Gerber or Leatherman-type multitool
*Can opener
*CAR-15 rifle w/five 20rd mags
*insect repellant
*entrenching tool
*knife sharpener

************************************************************************
From: Mike Owens <mrowens@ebicom.net>


All items are in a Large Ruck;
Military 2 piece rain suit
Military sleeping bag (mummy style)
Rapelling harness(Mil issue)
Commo wire
Bi-phone
Wool gloves and Shells
Jungle Boots
Socks (asst)
Changes of clothes
Chem lights (asst colors,12 total)
Small pop-up tent
9 MRE's
Basic First -Aid Kit
zip lock bags
3 two quart canteens(attached to the outside)
asst powdered soups and energy bars
  
I also keep a LBE over the ruck, which includes

Angle head flashlight
2 one quart canteens
2 ammo pouches w/40rds 30-06 & 15rds 12 ga
Large hunting knife
Gerber Multipliers
Compass
Colapseable entrenching tool
Buttback, contents are as follows;
    fire starter
    emergency blanket
    tri wing stove w\fuel
    Flares
    water markers
    Firefly Strobe light
    Bug Dope
    Camo Makeup
    550 cord
    Signal Mirror
    Small chain type saw
    Another first aid kit(I know I have 2)
    matches
    
*************************************************************************
Mountaineer's 12 Essentials
source: http://www.io.org/~richard/book/book.htm

1. Complete change of clothing
2. Extra food
3. Sunglasses
4. Knife
5. Fire Starters
6. Emergency matches
7. First Aid Kit
8. Flashlight
9. Maps
10. Good compass
11. Space blanket
12. survival guide

******************************************************************************
Blue Ridge Mountains Rescue Group - Search and Rescue Kit
(visit the BRMRG homepage for more)

clothes and foot gear for fair and foul weather
rain gear
5 large heavy duty plasic trash bags
water container 1 or 2 liter
headlamp flashlight and backup light
candle & lighter
knife
compass
personal first aid kit
pen and paper
whistle
two pairs plastic gloves
day pack
2 pieces Perlon - 5' and 7'
1 locking D caribeener
20' nylon webbing
leather gloves

**************************************************************************
From: thomen@ibm.net  (Mark Thomen)


Here's the kit I carry in my plane, fits in fairly small backpack:

Signalling Devices
1.	Signalling Mirror (NSN 6350-00-105-1252) w/lanyard
2.	(8) Cyalume sticks: 30 min yellow, (3) 12 hr yellow (2/94), 12 hr green,
(3) 12 hr red (1/97)
3.	Metal Whistle w/lanyard
4.	Mk 13 day/night flare
5.	60 sec Signal smoke (exp 12/96)
6.	(9) Olin 8 sec magnesium aerial flares (exp 9/97)
7.	SDU-5/E Strobe marker, ser #003629 (NSN 6230-00-067-5209) w/lanyard, spare
battery
8.	Survival Marker (International Orange), 34"x34" (Army "yoo-hoo rag")
9.	Sea dye packet

Tools/Weapons
1.	Backpack (contains all gear except AR-7)
2.	Inventory list (this list)
3.	AR-7 Survival Rifle, serial #A293692 w/100 rds .22 LR
4.	Gerber MK II Survival Knife, ser #111646 w/lanyard
5.	Swiss Army Knife w/lanyard
6.	Swiss Army Officers Compass w/lanyard
7.	Diamond-coated knife sharpener
8.	LeatherMan Mini-Tool w/lanyard
9.	Survival Saw ("Wyoming Saw")
10.	1 roll electrician tape
11.	60' 550 lb test parachute cord
12.	50' light multipurpose nylon cord
13.	Emergency Fishing Kit (NSN 4220-00-244-0764)

Miscellaneous
1.	Camo bush hat and Mosquito net
2.	Land Survival manual, Army FM 21-76 (6/92 ed)
3.	4 12"x12" zip-top bags
4.	Numerous 4"x4" zip-top bags
5.	Portable Hammock (doubles as gill net)
6.	Thermometer (on backpack zipper)
7.	12 tongue depressors
8.	2 "P-38" can openers
9.	5' surgical tubing

Fire-Starters
1.	(2) Bic butane lighters
2.	Waterproof match box w/20 Blue Tip matches
3.	(5) camping candles
4.	Magnesium block fire starter
5.	Flint and striker
6.	(3) packets Trioxane

First Aid
1.	1 oz tube Betadine ointment (exp 10/97)
2.	5/8 oz tube Mycitracin antibiotic ointment (exp 2/97)
3.	5 yds 1/2" adhesive tape
4.	1/3 oz tube Petroleum Jelly
5.	1 oz "6/12" insect repellent stick
6.	.5 oz "Skeeter Stik" external anesthetic (exp 1/97)
7.	3 oz SPF 30 sunblock lotion  (exp 12/96)
8.	1 Surgical blade, 5 single-edge razor blades
9.	Splinter tweezers
10.	Chapstick
11.	Red Cross Emergency First Aid kit (augmented)
  a.	Pocket 1 (Severe Bleeding and Burns)
    1.	1 large folded pad
    2.	2 gauze roller bandages
    3.	5 4"x4" sterile pads (added)
    4.	5 yds gauze roller bandage (added)
  b.	Pocket 2 (Medium Cuts)
    1.	2 dry swabs
    2.	2 medium pads with gauze roller bandages
    3.	4 sterile water wash pads
    4.	4 alcohol swabs (added)
    5.	4 2"x2" sterile pads (added)
  c.	Pocket 3 (Small cuts)
    1.	6 sterile water wash swabs
    2.	4 dry swabs
    3.	Assorted bandages
    4.	2 packages, each containing above 3 items
  d.	Other pockets
    1.	2 triangular bandages with pins
    2.	12 Aspirin (325 mg) (Personal Items pocket) (exp 9/93)
    3.	Space blanket
    4.	Bandage Scissors
    5.	6 ammonia inhalants (Personal Items pocket)
12.	.5 first aid field dressings, 4"x7" (FSN 6510-201-7455)
13.	ACE bandage, 2-1/2"
14.	Soap Bar
15.	Second Space blanket
16.	Military casualty blanket (orange/silver)
17.	Jobst inflatable full arm splint
18.	Jobst inflatable full leg splint

Food/Water
1.	Katadyn Pocket Filter, .2 micron, ser #76673
2.	2-1/2 qt collapsible water bag
3.	2 MRE Meatballs w/BBQ sauce
4.	5 MRE complete meal packets (in aircraft)
5.	MRE applesauce
6.	MRE crackers
7.	MRE potato patty
8.	MRE Blackberry Jam
9.	MRE Cocoa beverage powder
10.	4 Survival Chocolate Bars
11.	4 .7 oz Dextrose bars

********************************************************************
From: trm@webe.hooked.net (Timothy Manley)


A bug-out bag depends on what you're preparing for.  A general purpose "I'm
away from home, trying to get to home" bag could hold a number of things. 
 
1.  Enough food for 3 to 5 days for you & your family.  MRE's aren't very
	good and they cost too much, but they pack a good number of calaries for
	the mass they carry.  Remember, the average person eats about 1.7 pounds 
of
	food per day, so pack accordingly, better to over do it than under do it. 
2.  One gallon of water per person 
3.  An advanced first-aid kit, one with sutchers and clamps.  You should
	also take a "First Responder Course" so that you can know who to use most
	of that equipment. 
4.  A good knife, not a lock-back, but a solid knife with a hard steel and
	good edge, you may need to cut rope, cut wire, saw something. 
5.  Depending upon your adherence to concealed weapon laws a handgun may be
	included. 
6.  A truncheon. 
7.  An axe/hatchet 
8.  A tool kit (wratchet set, screwdriver set, hammer & nails) 
9.  A radio that can pick up television channels, preferrably one with a
	crank so no batteries needed. 
10.  A hand held CB. 
11.  A flashlight, a good flashlight, perhaps one for each member of the
	family. 
12.  TOILET PAPER 
13.  Hobo pocket knife (knife, spoon, fork) 
14.  Compass 
15.  Rope (good stuff, not the nylon crap you find in hardware stores, get
	rapelling rope. 
16.  Change of clothes, nothing worse that having to be in wet clothes,
	include with this a rain parka and hats. 
17.  Blankets 
 
******************************************************************************
From: jfaherty@hom.net


1.  2 changes of clothing in large ziplock freezer bags
2.  first aid kit
3. 2 quart canteen on outside of bag (change the water every week)
4. multi purpose folding tool (leatherman) 
5. 500ft. of parachute 550 cord.
6. rain poncho and poncho liner
7. extra set of jungle boots
8. hatchet
9. 1 quart canteen/with metal  cup (for cooking soup)
10. signal mirror
11. magnifying glass
12. 4 bic disposable lighters (better than matches)
13. fishing tacle 
14. 1 box of 22lr ammo
15. $100.00 us
16. a visa with $1000.00 credit limit (for buying emergency services)
17. 2 boxes (12pkg ea) of instant chicken noodle soup removed from the
	boxes and stored in a ziplock
18. folding shovel (e-tool)
19. 2 ibm compatable disks with copies of all of my important
	documents on them... there not legally binding, but in a pinch they
	will let you prove who you are.
20. books......  st-31-91b  us army special forces medical handbook
                           manual of emergency medicine
                           the herb book  by john lust
21. roll of tiolet paper
22. compass and state maps
23. flashlight  & extra batteries
24. small cheap am/fm/shortwave radio reciever

total weight about 45-50 lbs if I use my frame on the pack

I have taken my bag to a state park to see how well it was put together and it
did the job for me.

I use the poncho for shelter or when I want to sleep on the go, i tie the liner
inside and use it like a sleeping bag.

I use rocks and sticks for the tent pegs and poles if necessessary to keep the
weight down.

******************************************************************************

 Although I am not considered and expert by any standards I feel I do have
something to offer on the subject. Survival under different circumstances has
been an area of interest and study and practical experience for no other reason
than to see if it were possible, for many years.

The early day fur trappers were the very picture of survival under all types of
conditions pre 1840 era, their equipment and their attitude. If you will, read
the book by Joe Meeks who was there, it can be found at your local library. I
don't recall the title; but I think he only  wrote the one.

Things to consider for survival.
(1) What are you surviving?
(2) Winter, desert, natural disaster, Artic, or total break down of law and
order.
(3) Are you single or responsible for a family, parents, etc.
(4) Do you live in a rural or metro area.
(5) Are you willing to protect what you have with whatever force necessary.
(6) Medical, what do you know about it beyond minor first aid.
(7) There is safety in numbers. Everyone must contribute.
(8) Read a fiction work called "Lucifers Hammer" Really makes one think.Great
survival research went into that one. Plus It will keep you awake nights
reading.

Personally I feel The red cross is a poor substitute for medical training. I
took every course they had and still felt lacking so I took a first responder
course from our local ambulance service which is fantastic. Buck Tilton offers a
wilderness first responder course that is by far the best and the price is
right. By the way Buck is considered a formost expert in this area.

ICS books publishes a full line of books for the outdoors that I will have
online in the near future and will post the address when it is active. Other
survival books will also be available by various authors. If these books are of
interest to anyone you might as well buy them from me, the price is the same as
elseware. Plus I will make it easy, no gas to burn, no crowds to put up with
just order by mail.

I will say this, There is no such thing as a perfect survival kit or bug out
pack or first aid kits. To put one together requires a lot of thought in a lot
of different areas. Also the cost to do the job must be considered. The kit I
have assembled for myself, is heavy in medical plus all the "tools that my
experience tells me is necessary" I can probably assemble and market my "so
called super kit" for about 40% less than an individual who takes my list and
assembles it piece by piece. It would probably sell in the 650.00 range. Realize
that this is a very comprehensive unit that I feel will serve under any
circumstance. It contains no food or water, but does have a purifier that can be
used on effluent and produce safe water. A person can go with more or less,
depending on his desires.

Private pilots flying into canada and alaska are required to carry survival
supplies including a firearm and ammo, which is definitely worth considering,
here again on a personal level I travel nowhere without one. There is such a
thing as survival on the highways and streets too :). THIS NEXT AREA SOME
INDIVIDUALS GET VERY EMOTIONAL ABOUT SO I REPEAT, THIS IS MY OPINION. I have no
use for assult style firearms at all. For those who do I recommend AR-15 or
mini-14, these are 223 caliber. Useless in my mind and very expensive. The only
advantage they have is that ammo is small and you can carry a lot of it, you
will also waste a lot of it. The same holds true with the M1-A, this is the new
version of the military M-14 that was the army issue rifle in the early 60's. It
is .308 caliber which is a super caliber but the price range runs from $1000.00
to $1500.00, just not worth it. So much for my attitude on military type assualt
rifles.

Food: Great question. What do you need and for how long? I have pretty much
followed along with what I carry when backpacking. Freeze dried food has a shelf
life of approx. 10 years, takes little space and doesn' t taste that bad. Sure
beats MRE's. I have a 30 day supply for one person which is 10 days for 3
people, beyond that I am going hunting and fishing. Several name brands are
available and can be purchased in # 10 cans. canned foods are good to have too.
The only grains that I want is rice. To hell with grinding wheat. Stock up on
flour now in sealed #10 cans.

Another area is clothing, the layer system is not only the best but the most
expensive, especially when you look at "Gortex". Boots are a necessity (don't
skimp here). I recommend 400 + gram "thinsulate" type. Bear in mind that if it
insulates from the cold it also insulates frrom the heat,  they must breathe
also. Cabalis is a great source for these. Hypothermia can be deadly even in
mild climates. Wool can be purchased at the local army surplus store and is the
best in my mind. It retains at least 40% of it's insulating qualitys even when
soaking wet. I like medium weight "thermax" long underwear, "Duo fold" is also
very good, and "Gortex" outer shells.

Sleeping bags for each person, should be the type that twin, here again don't
skimp, use fiber fill type, goose or duck down is next to useless when wet.

Communication: A good quality AM, FM, Shortwave portable radio is a good idea,
Grundig makes the best. Also the most expensive. It is small and very good
quality, in the event of a disaster the only way you have of knowing what is
happening is the short wave operators. Also a hand held 2 meter 2 way radio, is
very good (requires a license). Grundig radios can be purchased at outlets like
incredible universe and circuit city. I have been giving a lot of thought to
small portable scanners that can be programed for the short wave bands.

Hope this helps any of you out and if you want to narrow your ideas down I can
be more specific instead of generalize, Art Bell has a page on the net that is
worth reading too I will have to look up his site address and post it later.

NOTE: AR-15, mini-14, M-1A, thermax, duo-fold, thinsulate, and Gortex are
registered trademarks.

******************************************************************************
[EDITOR'S NOTE: I'M NOT SURE WHERE I FOUND THIS, NOR HOW MUCH WEIGHT TO ASSIGN
TO THE  SUGGESTIONS!]

               Poorman's Gear Review

     I examined many, many camp stoves before finally settling on
the perfect one. I wanted a stove that would preform well in any
weather, simple to assemble in the field, low maintenance with few
replacement parts to worry with, inexpensive efficient fuel, and
most importantly inexpensive. 

The stove I settled on did not, however, come from a camp store.
Instead it came from Wal-Mart. I purchased a Coleman single- burner
propane stove. It simply screws onto a mini propane cannister and
it is ready to cook. While my other friends in SAR are busily
putting their MSG's and Whisperlite's together and pumping their 
fuel.

I'm cooking away on my Coleman. At $17.88 for the stove, and $2.18
for the propane cannisters (which provide about 12-16 hours of cook
time) this stove is a real bargain. It has preformed admirably at
20 degrees Celsius and in 25 mph winds. The rain is also no match
for this stove. Contrary to popular belief, this stove will not
weigh down your pack, one cannister and the stove are all 
you will need, and best of all no parts to hassle with.
 

     In Search and Rescue, we spend a lot of precious time in the
field. We can't be weighed down by a huge, uncomfortable backpack,
which effectively does nothing more than tire the wearer out. Most
searchers have found that fanny packs are the most efficient. 

These packs are comfortable to wear, and still have enough room to
carry the essential equipment for wilderness survival. Many of my
friends use packs from Mountainsmith. These are very nice packs,
however they aren't extremely roomy, and are kind of expensive. My
personal preference is the Super Waist Belt Pack from ISIS
International. 

The pack is inexpensive, $44.00 plus shipping, and easily hold
every thing I need for the field, and more. The pack is of heavy-
duty construction and is very comfortable on the hips. It offers
five exterior pockets, two are on the belt, one large main
compartment with three removable dividers, and one internal mesh
pocket. Padded  and durable, this pack is a definate plus.</p>

     I have a few recommendations in this department. The fire
starter I use by choice comes from those stores in which everything
is only $1.00. The package contains approximately 20 bricks and is
manufactured by Flamgo. They are quick and efficient, easy to light
and relatively safe. What more can you ask for a buck. If you are
an extremely tight budget, try the lint from the lint screen in
your dryer. There is a reason they tell you to remove it before
use, it burns well. Best of all, it is free.

     I went a little eccentric here, and purchased a good bag. I
use a Kelty NBS-15 15 degree bag. I paid aroung $115 for it, and it
has never let me down. 

It is extremely comfortable mummy, and has some spare room for
keeping gear warm, too. I want to take this opportunity to make a
recommendation, though. No matter what bag you use, be it a box-
bag from Wal-Mart to a Marmot, sometimes you find yourself in
weather not suited for your bag. 

When I first started SAR I used a cheap 30 degree bag from A
department store. On searches, though, I sometimes found myself in
much colder temperature. I purchased an Emergency Space Bag, by
Space brand. Used on the outside of your bag, it could lower your 
bag rating by as much as 10-15 degrees. Used on the inside... well
let's just say you'll be toasty.


******************************************************************************

HOOTS_DAVE@Tandem.COM wrote:
 
 Over the last few years, when discussing lists of survival items,
 I've tended to move to the abstract, i.e., Shelter, Heat, Water,
 Food, Medicine, Clothing, etc. When someone asks me what I pack,
 I refer to the abstracted list. This helps people, I've found,
 by identifying common categories that they encounter in daily
 life, as opposed to: "well, take some flint and steel, and
 a fishing kit, and don't forget your iodine tablets!".
 
 Also, because of the company I work for, I've adopted the
 "fault-tolerant" approach to kits. For example, I've got at
 least two of everything from each category in my bug-out bag.
 Having two different items, i.e., flint and steel and a bic lighter,
 allows me flexibility in case one breaks (altho it's hard to
 break a flint, not to mention the steel!).

 Along with this, is the modular approach to kit building. My
 most basic kit is a 2"x4"x5" (approx) belt bag (I forget the
 proper name at the moment). IT holds my fire-building equipment,
 water purification, two space blankets, a metal collapsable
 cup, first-aid kit, sewing kit, fishing kit....and more. It
 fits into a larger shoulder bag (Yugoslavian military surplus)
 that contains 100 ft. paracord, sportsman's blanket, extra
 clothing, food, etc. The third module is a fanny pack, and
 the fourth is a backpack (equipment from the previous three
 are extracted and placed into the backpack). The modularity
 and scalability allow me tremendous flexibility. I can easily
 go from module 1 to module 4 in a matter of a couple of minutes.
 
 Lastly, I take what experience has shown me I need. When I first
 went out into the backwoods by myself, I took a very comprehensive
 first aid kit, which weighed probably 5 pounds or so. Now I take
 one that is customized and weighs about 10 ozs. I've also pared
 down in other areas: instead of a hatchet, I take an SP8 (from
 Ontario Knives, it's a blunt-nosed mini-machete), for example.
 


******************************************************************************


NOTE OF THE CO-AUTHOR: THIS FILE AS ALL THE OTHERS STILL HAS TO
BE WORKED UPON YET I BELEIVE THAT MUCH INFORMATION CAN BE USED  IN ITS PRESENT 
FORM, LATER ON IT WILL BE DONE IN HYPERTEXT ETC SO BARE WITH ME, USE THEM, AND 
IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS SEND THEM  TO ME IN MY E-MAIL. THANKS

			richard@io.org


FIRE BUSH MEMORY HELPER:*

1)   Have your matches container attached ON YOU &  WATER TIGHT.

2)   An axe is the most important tool in the bush, more so than
the gun, bow and arrow, next in line is a good machete or those
new all purpose shovels. pix* 

3)   The hunting knife comes next, but well sharpened & A GOOD
     ONE.

4)   A bit of snare wire, some small waxed string & a long
leather shoe lace, a strong rope, are more useful than a gun.

A)   Snare wire, to snare rabbits, partridge & trouts.
B)   Wax string to attach which you'll have to make in survival
C)   Strong rope to suspend your game, or attach big snare,
     pulling.

D)   Well oiled leather string to tie your luggage, transport
     pull an animal from water 

5)   THIS BOOK FOR ALL KIND OF USES & S/KIT. PRACTICE IT!!!

6)   Your gun, ammo & other stuff in travelling kit. 
     (MAX 40 LBS!)

7)   NEVER enter the bush without a good warm parka, even if it's
hot day, better to carry it on your back, than having nothing
when night comes and you find that you MUST stay in the bush.

8)   MAKE SURE you NEVER enter wood without good strong boots.
The army type is not the best, for the leather sole slips on wood
unless it has the nonskid & WOOL SOCKS 1 SPARE.

9)   You MUST have some kind of container to boil things with,
you may forget the tea or coffee but NEVER the container.

10)  A 3 days Survival pack via food ex: pinole, pemmican,
spirolina, peanuts.

11)  ALWAYS carry a lot of matches and spare Bic lighters.
	(Keep them Dry!)
     WE URGE YOU TO BRING 4 BICS LIGHTERS

12)  Don't waste matches, use hot embers to light cigarettes,
     BRING CANDLES (2)

13)  SEE BEST #1 AND #2 S/KIT #3
     one for on you and one for 40 LBS,
     1 group of 4. (SAS) **** 2 do asap

PRACTICE FIRE LIGHTING:

FIRE IS ESSENTIAL TO SURVIVAL. It provides warmth, protection, a
means of signalling, boils water, cooks and preserves food.

YOU MUST LEARN TO LIGHT A FIRE UNDER ANY CONDITIONS ANYWHERE,
FAST & ANY TIME.

IT IS NOT ENOUGH TO KNOW ALL THE METHODS YOU HAVE TO BE EXPERT AT THEM.

FIRST ESSENTIAL ABILITY:

THE ABILITY TO LIGHT FIRE UNDER ALL KIND OF CONDITIONS IS ONE OF
THE FIRST ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE IN SURVIVAL. 

THUS YOUR ABILITY TO DO SO WILL GIVE YOU GREATER CONFIDENCE IN
YOUR ABILITY TO OVERCOME OBSTACLES IN ALL AVENUES OF LIFE AND
SPECIALLY IN SURVIVAL.

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

THE FOLLOWING FILE IS NOT TERMINATED BUT SOON WILL BE DONE ASAP IN HYPERTEXT AND 
WITH PIX WHEN NEED BE SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME TILL THEN,  MUCH  INFORMATION CAN 
BE  USED  MEANWHILE  FOR  YOUR ENJOYEMENT OR PLEASURE. MEANWHILE IF YOU HAVE ANY 
TIPS FOR ME SEND THEM UP BY E-MAIL TO:    richard@io.org

SURVIVAL KNIVES:

A strong knife is the survivor's best friend. Not all knives are
created equal. Utility and strength are the hallmarks of any
survival knife. 

It MUST have a full tang; the portion of the blade that extends
into the handle for maximum strength.

A knife with full tang has a blade that is one solid piece from the
tip to the butt of the handle. The design is standard for all
GI-issue knives as well as high-quality civilian models. A survival
knife also has saw-teeth cut into the back, or "spine" of the blade
opposite the cutting edge. These are not designed to saw through
branches but to cut shallow, squared grooves into wood and bone.

A shallow groove cut into two sides of a sapling will prevent a
tied rope from sliding along its length, and sharp sided notches
are vital to the construction of quality snares and deadfall. Its
handle should ALWAYS be contoured to fit its user's hand and should
ALWAYS have a grooved, checkered or knurled surface.

A smooth handle is slippery when wet or while the user is wearing
gloves, making the knife hard to get a grip on and dangerous. The
knife should also have a wide finger-guard that extends beyond the
blade in either direction. This will prevent the hand from sliding
over the blade if a slip should occur.  Finger-guards on some newer
survival knife have a flat and cross-point screwdriver tip ground
into either end.

The butt end of the handle should terminate in a solid, heavy, and
firmly attached butt cap. The butt cap is meant to be used as a
hammer, and MUST be equal to the task. One survival knife; the
Imperial Schrade M-7S, has a unique buttcap that's squared on 3
sides for hammering and has a claw-type nail puller and ice claw on
the forth.

It's important that the blade have a "false" or unsharpened edge
running 2 or 3 inches along the spine and down to the tip. The
false edge is not usually sharpened because its purpose is to
penetrate rather than to cut.  Having a false edge makes the blade
terminate in a needle-like point, very useful for drilling holes in
wood, bone or leather.

Before buying a survival knife, give some consideration to the type
of ground edge it has. Sharpness at this point is not important,
but the shape of the edge itself is.

THERE ARE 5 BASIC EDGE TYPES:

They are saber-ground, flat-ground, hollow-ground, semi-hollow
ground and diamond-ground. The ground edge is what determine how
strong the blade is and how sharp it can be made.

Until recently the saber ground edge was the standard for survival
knives, military blades and bayonets and in general still is. But
now  the new US Army M (Field knife made by Buck) has a semi-hollow
ground edge.

The saber-ground edge is shaped like a V, beginning about half way
down the blade and ending in a point at the cutting edge.  It is
difficult to sharpen because the entire surface of the ground edge
MUST be honed down to make the point formed at the cutting edge
sharp.

It also dulls rather quickly regardless of how hard the steel is
because the V formed by the edge is wide. (The narrower the V, the
sharper the edge.) The advantage of the sabre-ground edge is that
the maker need remove only a minimum amount of material from the
blade, leaving fully half of it at full thickness. 

The result is a blade that it can with practice & work, be made
sharp enough to shave the hair off someone's arm while retaining
enough brute strength to withstand the abuse of being used a
prybar, wedge, or climbing tool. The legendary Marine Corps K-Bar
Fighting knife and the USAF Pilot's survival knife have
saber-ground edges.

The flat-ground edge is similar tooth V formed by the sabre-ground
edge, except that it begins at the blade's spine and ends at the
cutting edge giving the entire blade a sharp "V" shape.

A flat-ground blade is necessarily wide in comparison to its
thickness but can be honed to razor sharpness with little trouble
and retains a  functional cutting edge very well. It is not as
strong as the sabre-ground edge because more steel is removed when
the edge is formed, but many experienced woodsmen have been willing
to make the sacrifice. 

The Trailmaster, a large Bowie knife from the Cold Steel company,
has a flat-ground edge, as do many folding knives. The
hollow-ground edge is the sharpest of them all. This is the edge
found on straight razors and a few fillet knifes.

It is formed by grinding a wide groove along the length of the
blade on either side, beginning at the spine of the blade and
ending at the cutting edge. Unfortunately, so much metal is removed
from the blade to form the edge that it becomes downright weak.
Consequently, no companies are making a hollow-ground belt knife
and it is just as well.

The semi-hollow ground edge is another matter. This edge has such
a strong following that is can be found on nearly every hunting
knife ever made. It is formed by grinding a groove length-wise
along either side of the blade, much the same as the hollow-ground
edge.

The difference is that the semi-hollow edge has a much smaller
radius, beginning only halfway down the blade and ending at the
cutting edge. This leaves half the blade a full thickness to
maximize the strength while narrowing the cutting edge into a sharp
V that will take and hold a very keen honed edge.

Because of the advent of superior alloys and heat treating methods,
this edge is gaining still more popularity among survivalists &
professional woodsmen for whom a broken knife is not just an
inconvenience but a serious problem. The Gerber BMF Survival knife,
US Navy UDT knife and the Buck M9 Field knife have semi-hollow
ground edges.

The last type or diamond-ground edge is unique to double-edges
knives & daggers. Essentially a saber-ground edge that has been
duplicated on what would otherwise be the spine of the blade, it
produces a second cutting edge. However this edge can not be made
sharp and is inherently weak because so much metal is removed from
the blade. Better to stay away from that type of knife is our
advice.

BOWIE-TYPE SURVIVAL KNIFE:

The Rambo type has the characteristics that distinguish the Bowie
from other blades' types is its wide, thick blade, good balance,
heavy finger-guard and a long false edge. Today there are at least
a dozen hollow-handle survival knives on the market, proof enough
that the design has following among outdoorsmen.

At first glance it appears to be a wonderful idea to use the handle
as a storage place for survival items, until one REMEMBERS that
that's where the tang should be.

Hollow knives have no tang to speak of because the blade mounts to
the handle rather than running though it. The design quite
virtually takes the backbone out of the knife, making it prone to
breakage during hard use.

I suggest that anyone in the market for a serious survival knife
that carries its own emergency items give some consideration to
knives like the Imperial Schrade M-7S or Gerber BMF.

Both of these offer the strength of a full tang and come with
sheath pouches containing compass, matches, wire-saw and fishing
tackle. Having said that, we recommend that anyone who still wants
a hollow-handle knife purchase the Buckmaster made by Buck Knives.

The so-called "blood grooves" still found on many blades including
the legendary K-Bar should be avoided. Folded knives have little
value as general duty survival knives because, like hollow-handle
knives, they have no tang.

Still the folding knife has a place in the survivalist's kit. The
large size and brute strength of the general survival knife, so
desirable for building shelters, butchering large animals, and a
host of other heavy chores, work against its delicate tasks.

Fashioning wooden implements and sensitive snare triggers and
filleting fish are best accomplished by  smaller, thinner blades.
For these and many other light duty chores, we recommend any good
3 blades stockman knife. Perronnaly I love the Swiss Army knife.

Choosing a survival knife with so much variety of brands, sizes and styles can
be a confusing experience. 

The following list is a list of what we feel are the 5 best
survival knives on the market today based on hard experiences and
not on specifications or manufacturer's claims. They are listed in
order of preference with their average retail price even though
this may change a lot as the years go by or by countries.

Imperial Schrade M-7S =  $50.00
USAF Survival Knife   =  $30.00
Buck M9 Field Knife   = $100.00
Gerber BMF            = $150.00
USMC Combat knife     =  $40.00

[The editor believes Busse Combat Knives offers the best sheath knives on the
market, but they are not cheap! Tel. (419) 923-6471.  The best folder is the
Benchmade AFCK-800S (503) 655-6004]

FIRE STARTING TOOLS:

Matches are something every woodsman MUST HAVE AT ALL TIMES. Used
carefully, a single book of matches is capable of starting 25
fires; 2 books = 40 fires.

Assuming that the survivalist is walking back to civilization, at
that the average person can walk 25 miles a day, if he makes a new campfire each 
night and does not waste any matches, he will have to walk 500 miles 
before exhausting a single book.

Wooden "strike anywhere" safety matches offer the advantage of
being hotter burning and less apt to be blown out by a breeze but
these can be quite volatile often igniting against themselves. Many
a woodsman, myself included, has had the unpleasant experience of
having a pocketful of these little wonders ignite from rubbing
against one another. So ALWAYS carry them in an airtight container.

The newest breed of wooden matches is a bit safer. They are equally to being
blown out, but will only light when struck against the igniter strip on the side
of the box they come in.

These can be carried in a match holder, pill bottle or even wrapped in a plastic
sandwich bag as a protection against moisture, but they are useless unless a
section of the igniter is included. Disposable butane lighters are one of the
many modern technologies most of have come to take for granted.

A single Bic type lighter is the equivalent of about 100 books of
matches and has the advantage of being impervious to water. If it
becomes dunked all one has to do is wait until the flint and
igniter wheel dry out & it's back in business.

But the value of the butane lighter does not end when the supply of butane is
exhausted. I have found that by removing the metal hood surrounding the gas port
the lighter can be used as spark-thrower to ignite dried grass, cotton fibers
and other fine tender. It seems the flint in a disposable butane lighter ALWAYS
lasts twice as long as its butane supply and that can be an advantage in the
wilderness.

Chemical fire starters are also a great asset, especially in very
cold or wet weather. Military Trioxane bars and the smaller
Hexamine tablets, available in most Army-Navy surplus stores, are
very stable, have an almost infinite shelf life, and burn with a
hot, smokeless blue flame that can be used to start a fire with wet wood or
windy conditions.

Either of them can also be used alone to heat water or canned food.
Trioxane comes in a box containing 3 foil-wrapped bars and retails for about
$2.00 per box. Hexamine tablets come 6 to a cardboard tube and retail for around
$1.00 per tube. 

Both of these are very effective for starting fires under adverse
conditions, but I prefer the larger Trioxane bars.  Having one of
these in my pack has saved my fingers on several subzero mornings
when the temperature was so low I had only seconds in which to get the fire
started before my hands turned into frostbitten claws.

The magnesium fire-starting block comes onto the market almost a
decade ago but has NEVER gained much popularity. This is one of
those items that apparently works fine in the lab but not in the
field. Better forget it altogether.

Candles are on old tried and true fire starting aid that every
woodsman should at least have one "Emergency Candle" in his pocket or kit to
help light fires in wet weather. 

A LIT CANDLE PLACED UNDER A PILE EVEN OF THE WETTEST TWIGS WILL
START A FIRE, EVEN IN A LIGHT RAIN.

One of the beauty is that they are real cheap. Tea candles that
come in their own metal container are also very cheap and in some
cases even better.

FISHING GEAR:

There is no reason for anyone venturing into or near wilderness to be without a
good supply of fishing gear. Improvised hooks made of bone or wood and fishing
line made of twisted plant fibers are things of the past and completely
unnecessary for the modern woodsman to survive in the wild. 

Survivalists have ALWAYS realized the value of a fishing kit in the forest where
streams are plentiful and fish provide an abundant & reliable source of food
every month of the year.

A good working fishing kit is so small and light that it will fit
into a jacket pocket. The kit I have used for the past 10 years is
self-contained, dirt cheap to make, and unbelievably effective. We have used 
it to take brook trout, bluegill, perch, rock bass, etc. 

The kit I used consists of a plastic 35 mm. film bottle with a
Snap-On cap. The film bottle is my container of choice for most
small items because it is unbreakable, tough and has a watertight
seal.

In it I place an assortment of long-shank hooks (they seem to be
most effective), about a dozen split-shot sinkers at least 30 feet of 20 pound
test mono-filament line held in a small coil with a rubber band or a wire tie, a
scented rubber worm, and a Swedish Pimple or spinner for jigging. And even with
all this, there is still room for swivels, a steel leader, extra hooks or a
number of other small items.

But the film bottle itself is an important part of the fishing kit.  With a few
wraps of brightly colored vinyl tape around its
circumference that can be used for many uses, it will also work
efficiently as a fishing float or "bobber".

As an alternative, making a bobber from a twig is simple. First
select a dry softwood twig about 4 inches long and 3/4 of inch in
diameter (these dimensions are not critical and are given only as
suggestion).

Remove the bark, if the twig is dry it should come off easily with your
thumbnail. If the wood is darkened scrape the surface lightly with a knife until
the entire surface is a light tan color. Remove about 2 inches of colored vinyl
tape from the film bottle. 

Lay the fishing line parallel along the surface of the twig,
fastening the two together. The bobber can now be slid along the
line until the desired depth is achieved. The emptied bottle can be used in the
same way. Artificial bait (lures) can be very effective for catching fish
without the conventional rod and reel. 

A small spinner can be used for jigging in pools or slow moving
streams and will be active enough in fast moving streams to attract trout and
creek chubs.

Swedish Pimples are probably the most effective lures for bass,
crappies, perch and sunfish. A scented rubber worm is attractive to all types of
fish and can be cut into small sections to extend its usefulness. 

Floating flies are effective for catching trout, bass and perch,
and are also easily tied in the field using thread, feathers,
animal fur or even one's own hair. Live bait can be found at nearly any time of
the year, including winter. Earthworms are available on the banks of rivers,
streams and lakes until the ground freezes in winter.

Grasshoppers, crickets, bees and most any other insects will be
attractive to most type of fishes, especially bass and perches.
Grubs, insect pupae and salamanders can be found in rotting stumps
& logs throughout the year. Freshwater clams are excellent bait and they too can
be found close to shore in lakes and streams at all times of the year.

And ALWAYS REMEMBER that fishes are cannibalistic creatures. If
more live bait is somehow unavailable, the first fish caught can be sacrificed
as bait to catch others.

One item we believe should be a part of any woodsman's kit is the
4 tined frog spearhead.

A spear-shaft can be quickly made from a straight green sapling and fastened
securely to the spearhead simply by forcing the tapered shaft into it. The spear
head cost only about $3.00 and could be used to take frogs, fish and even small
animals. 

Rabbit burrows are often shallow and straight, making it simple to thrust the
spear through the burrow entrance and impale the rabbit. This tactic like many
others in survival, is not pleasant, but when the alternative is starvation, the
choice is easy.

SHELTER MATERIALS: PONCHO:

A PONCHO IS ONE OF THE MOST VERSATILE TOOLS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST THE ELEMENTS.

It can be worn as a raincoat, wrapped around a sleeping bag or
bedroll to keep it dry, used as water-proof shelter, or to collect
rain, shadow maker against a burning sun, or simply used to cover
a person who MUST sleep in the open.

SPACE BLANKET:

The basic model is simply a large sheet of reflective aluminum
laminated plastic, usually 84 X 54 in 7 weighs about 2 ounces. It
is reputed to be able to reflect up to 80% of a person's body heat
back at them. My own experience is that it does not provide
sufficient insulation by itself to keep a person warm in cold
weather.

It does however make a wonderful shelter roof, being waterproof and
windproof. An added bonus is that its shiny silver coating turns
the entire shelter into a giant mirror that is easily spotted from
the air. A variation of this is the cloth backed vinyl sportsman's
blanket, available in red, sliver or woodland camouflage. 

This blanket has about the same size as the space blanket, weighs
12 oz. but it is a bit more durable and made to be used over and
over. Whereas the space-blanket is designed to be used only once. 

Another inexpensive and effective shelter material is the
polypropylene plastic sheeting used as tarpaulins and painter's
drop cloths. It is light, water and windproof & is available in
clear or black. 

We recommend the clear one because it is more easily spotted from
the air and makes a more efficient solar still for collecting and
purifying water. 

ROPES:

While not absolutely necessary to the construction of an emergency
shelter, 100 feet or so of strong, light nylon cord is invaluable
for erecting shelters quickly, not to mention the 100's uses it has
around camp, including the use as heat booster in a campfire.

P/S: You also MUST learn some basic knots. (Square/Bowline & Double
half hitch.#?**)

SIGNALS:

Those in need of rescue should be aware of the techniques for
alerting a search party to their whereabouts. 

The lost or stranded hunter needs to be especially well informed
because he has not gotten a lot of time. It is rather hard fact
that most hunters are given up for dead after a maximum of 72 hours
in cold weather.

The signal flare is a tried and true method of signaling, but it
can only be effective if the searchers are close enough to see its
trail as it arcs through the sky. Even then the flare is only
visible for only a few seconds and can be obscured from sight by
high terrain.

The most common type of signal flare is the single shot flare
pistol. These pistols use a flare cartridge that resembles a 12
gauge shotgun shell. But be warned, flare pistols are usually
constructed of cast metal or even plastic. NEVER attempt to fire a
shotgun shell in on. They usually start around $60.00.

Pencil flares are another more compact type of signal flare
launcher. It is a compact tube slightly larger than a pencil. Since
it is smaller than the flare pistol it also uses a smaller less
obvious flare.

WHISTLES:

Loud piercing whistles have had some value in signaling search
parties in the past, particularly in densely forested areas or
under foggy conditions.

The sound of a whistle will carry for miles in mountainous country.
Sports whistles work very well, but there is currently a unit on
the market that incorporates a liquid filled compass, match holder,
signal whistle and lanyard. The entire unit is about 6 inches long
by 2 inches in diameter and composed of orange plastic. About $5.00
it should be a welcome addition to any survival kit.

FLASHLIGHTS:

They are not only generally useful, they make an excellent
signaling device. New flashlight, most notably the near
indestructible Mag-Lite, use high intensity Krypton or halogen
bulbs that give the standard 2 cell D size flashlight as much
brilliance as the old 6 volts type. Even the AA Mini Mag-Lite
provides more light than standard D-cell flashlights.

There are currently several aluminum flashlights on the marker but
we recommend the Mag-Lite by name because it has proven track
record for durability, bulbs are readily available from most
stores. They have adjustable beams that can be focused from broad
to spotlight.

As a signal the flashlight is useful only at night, but its beam
can be seen from as far as 5 miles away, depending on the size and
power of the light. 

Considering its utility, it would be foolish for anyone to venture
into the wilderness without a good flashlight, spare batteries and
an extra bulb, even if the light is just a cheap plastic model.

FIRE AS SIGNAL:   SEEN  15 MILES AWAY

Fire is also useful as a distress signal and in some situations it
may even be the best way to attract help. A large but controllable
signal fire built on the highest point possible will be visible
from more than 15 miles away depending on weather conditions and is
sure to be seen by passing aircraft.

AS A SURVIVAL FIREARMS RIFLE IS BEST!:

Unless at war a true survivalist does not need to be Rambo with its
fully automatic weapon. The rifle is most often selected as a
survival gun for a number of reasons.

It has more range, accuracy and killing power than a handgun or
shot gun in any given caliber. It is easy to become proficient with
than a handgun, its ammunition is smaller than used in the shotgun;
and finally, the rifle is more certain of getting the job done at
longer ranges than either of the other two.

Yet even though nearly all experienced outdoorsmen agree that the
rifle is best suited for the role of survival gun, there exists
some disagreement about which caliber is most capable of meeting
the needs of the survivalist. We believe the .22 Long Rifle is the
best choice available for use in all-around survival rifle.

Why the .22? Versatility is the biggest reason. In the hands of a
skilled marksman the vastly underrated long Rifle cartridge can and
has been used to take nearly every edible animal on the N. American
continent.

We have used it successfully to take rabbits, porcupine, squirrels,
ducks, geese, trout and even white tail deer at distances of up to
100 yards. As a sporting cartridge, the .22 is illegal to use on
many of these animals, but the need to eat in a survival situation
is recognized by all.

Apart form its proven killing power and accuracy, the .22 Long
Rifle cartridge is even more attractive because of its small size
and portability. The standard box of 50 rounds weighs only 6 oz.
500 rounds are more than sufficient for any contingency, including
repeated signaling with gunshots, yet weigh less than 4 pounds.

For the woodsman who wants a survival gun but can not choose a
rifle or shotgun, there is a very nice compromise from Savage
Firearms. The Model 24 is an over and under shotgun/rifle
combination and is available in a number of caliber/gauge
combinations.

Like 30/30/20 gauge, .22 Long Rifle/20 gauge or .22 Long
Rifle/.410. When not in use the Model 24 breaks down into 3
separate pieces, the stock and receiver, the barrels and the
forearm, and fits easily into a full size backpack.

Following is a list of firearms that we have used and can recommend
for use by anyone needing a firearm to provide themselves with food
in an emergency.  Two of them, the Charter Arms AR & and the Marlin
70P , are semi-autos with screw-off barrels that were designed
specifically for use as backpack survival rifles.

The AR-7 has long been a favorite of canoeists because its receiver
and barrel can be detached form and stowed in the hollow plastic
stock, making it the world's only floating rifle.

Marlin Model 25 bolt-action .22  =$100.00 US
Charter Arms AR-7 semi-auto .22  =$150.00
Savage Model 24 over & under     =$260.00
Armscor Model 20P semi-auto .22  = $90.00
Marlin Model 70P semi-auto .22   =$100.00

MARKSMANSHIP:

Far too many sports hunters take to the field with little or no
shooting skills, secure in the fact that if they miss they can
ALWAYS go home to a hot meal. 

But if you are stranded or injured you can not afford to be so
blithe concerning your marksmanship. In the wild every single
cartridge represents a meal or an important signal. Like all skills
shooting has its own procedures and techniques that MUST be
followed to become even mediocre.

First is proper sight alignment. Place the rifle butt against the
shoulder with the stock securely nested into the hollow of the
shoulder. Lean forward slightly, NEVER backward.  If the gun is
equipped with telescopic sights, simply place the intersection of
the cross-hair on the target and hold it as steadily as possible.

If the gun has "iron" sights, look through the notch in the rear
sight and align the front sight blade with it until the blade sits
in the rear sight notch flush with its top. Place the aligned
sights directly under the target. Whenever possible, rest the stock
for-end (not the barrel) on a convenient tree branch or other
supports to help hold it steady.

Next is proper trigger squeeze. More shots are missed because of a
jerked trigger than for any other reasons. The  trigger of any
riffles or pistol for that matter MUST ALWAYS be gently pulled back
toward the shooter with the ball of the forefinger, directly
opposite the fingernail and ahead of the first joint.

The shooter should NEVER know precisely when the gun will fire, but
should press the trigger with steadily increasing force while
concentrating on keeping the sights aligned with the target. When
the gun discharges it should come as a surprise.

The shooter should hold his breath during this exercise to prevent
excessive barrel wobble.

That is basically all there is to shooting. Assuming the sights are
in proper alignment with the target and the barrel is held steady
and the firing distance is reasonable, the shooter who follows
these simple instructions will hit hi s intended target.

LEN BOOK MEDICAL SUPPLIES:**

Most survival manuals put a great deal of emphasis on herbal
medicines and with good reasons. There are virtually thousands of
wild plants, trees and shrubs that have proven medicinal value. The
major drawback to herbal medicine is that the woodsman needs to
posses a great deal of knowledge to prepare and use them properly. 

In most instance it is safer and easier to carry a broad supply of
modern medicine. However for everyone's convenience we have
included some ways to prepare and use those medicinal herbs.

ASPIRIN:

It is an inexpensive yet fairly effective pain killer. It will help
you ease the swelling in an injured or bruised limb, bring back
down a fever & dampen the pain of minor injuries. Aspirin also
works to thin blood and so MUST NOT be used when internal bleeding
is suspected.

IBUPROFEN TABLETS:

They are available under a number of brand names, including the
original medical name, Motrin. They are very effective against
pain.

Four of the over the counter tablets are equal to one prescription
strength Motrin tablet. Except for possible stomach upset ALWAYS a
potential side effect of Motrin, taking 4 Ibufropen will not harm
the user.

However, use this dosage only in cases of very severe pain, NEVER
exceed it and do not repeat it more often than once every 4 hours.

REMEMBER, pain is the body's signal that something is wrong. NEVER
use a pain killer to make it possible to walk on an injured leg or
to overcome a suspected back injury.

Doing so will only make matters worse. It is better to be laid up
for a couple of days with a minor injury than for a couple of weeks
with an injury compounded by foolishness.

BAR OF SOAP:

It should ALWAYS be part of any wilderness first-aid kit. Doctors
now agree that the best way to prevent infection in minor cuts and
scrapes is not with peroxide, alcohol, mercuro-chrome or any of the
other popular disinfectants but simply to wash the wound with soap
and water.

(MAKE SURE that the water is germ free by either boiling it or
adding purifying substances.) 

My advice however is that you should use non-scented soap (ex:
Sunlight bars), the reason because scented soap attracts mosquitoes
etc.

ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENTS:

Such as Neosporin are also NECESSARY to a functional first-aid kit.
These ointments take up where the soap and water leave off,
providing a protective coating that keeps bacteria out of a wound
as well as antibiotics to kill any germs that might still be there
after the washing. Most antibiotics ointments also contain zinc
oxide to accelerate healing.

IODINE:

It is not necessary to disinfect cuts, but it is a good idea to
include a bottle of it in your kit. It will disinfect wounds,
(although it destroys skin cells in the process) but it's most
important as a water purifier.

WARNING:  VERY POISONOUS!

2 or 3 drops in a quart canteen will kill any virus, bacteria or
trematode living in it. Iodine is also highly poisonous to humans!

NEVER exceed 3 drops per quart of water and ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN
that some of the water is sloshed over the mouth of the canteen
before drinking from it.

Commercially made iodine water purification tablets are available
from most stores that sell camping equipment, but are 2 or 3 times
more expensive than a bottle of ordinary iodine disinfectant and
tend to disintegrate over time.

BUTTERFLY SUTURES:

They are a relatively new innovation that have found wide
acceptance among outdoorsmen who do not have quick access to
medical help but may need to close gaping wounds quickly before
serious blood loss can occur.

In days past, the only recourse was to stitch the wound closed with
a needle and some type of thread. This is not recommended in the
less than sterile environment of the wilderness because the needle
and thread often introduce new infectious organisms that can breed
in the closed wound.

Nearly as effective as stitches, butterfly sutures are essentially
very sticky tapes enclosed in a sterile envelope.

After thoroughly washing the wound and stopping the bleeding as
much as possible, the butterfly suture is used to pull the wound
closed and hold it there.

SAFETY TAPE:   Duct tape

A fairly new item that was originally designed to wrap the fingers
of factory workers to prevent minor cuts and scratches. The tape is
made by applying a latex coating over surgical grade cotton gauze
and wrapping it in roll form. It will stick tenaciously to itself
but will not adhere to anything else including skin.

Since most cuts sustained by woodsmen are on the fingers, safety
tape is perfect for bandaging even serious wounds on the digits
quickly and with almost no blood loss. After washing the wound
thoroughly, apply a generous coating of an antibiotic ointment and
wrap the finger with several snug (not tight) layers of safety
tape.

This will close the wound. Leave the tape on for a least 12 hours
before carefully removing it to apply a looser wrap over a fresh
coating of antibiotic ointment.  Safety tape is also useful for
wrapping sprained  joints and applying splints to broken bones. It
comes in a variety of widths up to 3 inches & an assortment of
colors, although only white should be used as a bandage.

At the time of this writing there is only one source for safety
tape that we are aware of. The company is General Bandages Inc. Box
99 Morton Grove Illinois 60053 USA. A free roll is available from
them for the asking.

MULTIVITAMIN TABLETS:

They are on often overlooked item of the well-equipped first-aid
kit. It is ironic that so many of the folks who religiously take
vitamins at home will forget them in the woods.

In a survival situation a good multivitamin can help to stave off
the effects of malnutrition by providing the vitamins & minerals
necessary to remain healthy and energetic. ** see Spectrum 29

TOOTHBRUSH:

It is another vital accessory that many woodsmen even trained
survivalists tend to forget. A gum infection can set in quickly in
the woods and can become an abscess without proper dental hygiene.

A tooth abscess can virtually kill its victim overnight with a
fever that can easily top the 100 degree mark. Toothpaste is
optional (salt is a good one), but no woodsman should ever be
without a toothbrush.

In a pinch the twig brush, an old fashioned cleaner that precedes
the modern toothbrush will suffice. The twig brush is made by
chewing a section of green twig (we recommend the witch hazel
shrub) until the end is frayed and fibrous. 

Care should be taken to avoid twigs from poisonous shrubs like
Dogwood **. Maple, oak, poplar, birch, beech and even pine can be
safely used to make a twig brush.

PRESCRIPTION DRUGS:

For those going into very remote place these drugs can be a real
asset. Penicillin, xylocaine, light prescription pain killers can
sometimes be obtained by scheduling an appointment with the family
doctor.

Any doctor worth his salt will question your motives at length
before consenting to write a prescription and will probably have a
good bit of advice to offer concerning the use of prescription
drugs in the wilderness.

Listen carefully to this advice and take notes; it may save your
life in an emergency. Most doctors will also ask that you return
any unused drugs when you come back. A  well-stocked emergency
medical kit can be invaluable in a survival situation and may even
save your life. It need not be large or heavy but it MUST be as
functional and efficient as possible.

Adequate medical kits can be made from small duffels, lunch boxes
or even zip-lock plastic bag or even several ordinary hinged
bar-soap containers filled with an assortment of small items and
held closed by heavy rubber bands.

A LIST OF ITEMS:

1 tube antibiotic ointment.
1 roll 1" wide safety tape.
Butterfly sutures, assorted sizes.

1 bottle Ibuprofen tablets.
1 bottle of aspirin /1 bottle of iodine
1 small bar hand soap. / 1 toothbrush

1 pair of tweezers / 1 small pair scissors
6 alcohol prep pads/ 1 toenail clippers.
1 section latex rubber tubing, 2 feet long
for tourniquet (or 2 feet long Velcro strip)

1 bottle of multivitamins / 1 roll cotton gauze
1 package sewing needle, assorted sizes
1 styptic pencil. 1  mini-first-aid book.

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS:

Only size and weight limit the utility of any survival kit.
Although most experts highly urge anyone not to go over 40 lb. as
a maximum. Of course the size and complexity of a deer hunter's
survival kit will be less than that of a boater or off-road driver.

The aforementioned items are those that have been proven useful
many times and all of them are recommended for inclusion in any
survivalist's kit.  The following items are also very useful, but
probably none of them are critical to survival. Of course, whether
or not a particular item is necessary or not depends on the season,
terrain, individual wants and a host of other factors.

SLINGSHOTS:

Most of us had slingshots as children. Those of us who are older
than we care to admit probably made ours from rubber inner tubes
and a Y-shaped stick. They were effective, but not nearly as
powerful as the latest generation of high-velocity slingshots
powered by tough latex rubber tubing.

Using marbles or ball bearings as ammo, this new breed of
slingshots is easily capable of taking most small game animals,
providing the hunter has enough skills to hit them. Some models
even fold into a compact unit for easy storage in a backpack.
 
SPARE SOCKS:    (Dear Spocks)

They are very important in cold weather. The best one all around
are wool ones. Wet socks do little to keep feet warm and wearing
wet socks in cold weather can result in trench-foot, frozen toes
even gangrene. The military has long realized the importance of
clean, dry socks in cold weather, especially under conditions of
prolonged exposure.

LEATHER GLOVES:

Another important item to anyone in any weather. During warm
weather a pair of heavy leather gloves will protect the hands from
scratches, cuts, blisters and burns. In cold weather with a pair of
wool liners inside, they will like-wise protect them from frostbite
and cold.

G-I issue gloves are adequate for all around use but the leather
used to make them is not as heavy as that used in some of the
civilian models, most notably those from Well-Lamont company.
Ironically the less durable military gloves sell at twice the price
of civilian work gloves. (Go figure?!)

WIDE HAT:

The wide-brimmed military type bush hat is more versatile than many
folks realize. It offers nothing in the way of warmth during cold
weather, but when it is warm the bush hat will help to keep the sun
off the wearer's head and out of his eyes.

Being made of heavy cloth it can be saturated with water and worn
wet to keep the head cool, yet still retain enough water repellence
to keep a pouring rain out of your eyes. Many have used theirs to
filter mud, silt, and microscopic organisms from swamp water, even
as berry bucket or pot-holder for campfire cooking or even as trap
to catch minnows for use as bait.

For the hunter this rumpled, misshapen appearance of the bush hat
works to make him less recognizable in almost any terrain.

DOG RAG:    (VERY USEFUL & MANY USES)

Used by Special Forces in Vietnam; it is nothing more than a very
large handkerchief or square of heavy cloth preferably flannel or
jersey and measuring 3 to 4 feet across. 

It can be used to filter muddy water, as an emergency tourniquet,
arm-sling, as pot-holder, tied at the 4 corners to make a hobo
bindle, as a sweatband, or a wash-cloth.

In desert area it can be used to sponge up the dewdrops that
collect on rock in the early morning. The gathered dew can then be
wrung out into a canteen cup, tin can or directly into the mouth.

WIRE TIES:

Large, colored wire ties, like those included with some brands of
plastic bag are infinitely useful in the wild. They can be used to
quickly fasten together the frame of an emergency shelter or bundle
of dry grasses into an insulated sleeping mat. 

Or they can be used one per pair of eyelet's, to replace a
boot-lace that has been sacrificed to make a snare or hunting bow.
They will even serve to fasten branches, ferns, and leafy boughs to
one's clothing as hunting camouflage.

ELECTRONIC & SURVIVAL:  

Besides the **Panasonic tracker, the electronics of today is so
compact and energy efficient that there is no reason whatsoever not
to have a radio receiver on any venture away from civilization. 

Personal AM/FM receivers are smaller than a deck of cards and can
operate on 2 AAA alkaline cells for a week or more. One of the best
backpack radio would be one that receives AM, FM, VHF-TV & Weather
Band frequencies. They cost less than $20.00 and will operate on 4
AA batteries for a month when used for about 3 hours each day.

A good radio receiver can be most important for maintaining the
morale of a stranded woodsman by constantly reminding him that
civilization still exists. The receiver is also valuable for the
weather reports it provides, especially if it has Weather Band
capability.

SEWING KIT:

A sewing kit can be valuable not only to the survivalist but also
to the recreational woodsman who is neither lost nor stranded.
Clothing tears, ripped backpack seams, and a variety of other
frequent damage that can be repaired only by needle and thread are
common to wilderness travel.

A very workable kit can be made by placing a small spoon of thread
and a package of assorted sewing needles in a 35mm film bottle. The
total cost of this type of kit is less than $1.00.

OTHER NEAR ESSENTIAL ITEMS: (LBE)

We highly recommend that any woodsman have with him a G-I type
plastic canteen, canteen cup, canteen cover and nylon pistol belt.
This heavy grommeted pistol belt is a handy place to carry a
survival knife, medical kit, pouches and nearly all the smaller
component of a practical survival kit.

One of the best harness is the US Army LBE (Load bearing equipment)
harness which is basically just a pistol belt with heavy canvass
suspenders attached. This belt should be worn with a heavy canvass
suspender, otherwise it will slip off you too easily. It provides
you with the most efficient and comfortable method of carrying
other survival equipment that we have found. 

I have a razor-sharp USAF survival knife taped securely to the left
shoulder strap (I am right-handed) in the upside down position for
quick and easy access. (No I am no Rambo) I also have 2 ammo
pouches attached to the belt that contain fishing tackle, matches,
sewing kit, medical gear, Trioxane bars, .22 ammunition and an
assortment of other items too numerous to list.

Also attached to the belt is a small map pouch that contains a
Silva map compass, a stainless steel mirror (All purpose blade
see**) and a laminated waterproof map of the area I intend to be
traveling. Occasionally  I carry 2 canteens and still have plenty
of room to attach extra pouches, a machete or hatchet and just
about anything else that can be feasibly attached to the belt or
suspenders. 

This LBE  outfit is a completely self-contained survival kit that
wears comfortably and weighs less than 15 pounds with 2 full
canteens.

INSECT REPELLENT:

The importance of a good insect repellent depends on the terrain
and the weather. In the snow or desert it has little value, but if
you are traveling through h or near a swampy area in warm weather,
an effective insect repellent is worth its weight in gold.

Mosquitoes are usually the least of your worries; more important
are the 300 species of horsefly and deerfly and the 600 species of
blackflies. These parasitic flies are all very determined biters
and all potentially dangerous to humans. 

Deerflies  and horseflies both inflict bites that are quite
painful, often bleed freely and swell into large wheals that can
itch intensely for several days. (Ouch!!!)

These 2 flies are credited with the ability to remove up to a pint
and half of blood from a domestic animal in a single day. A human
without protection in areas of heavily infestation could be in real
danger.

Blackflies also pose a danger to the unprepared. Their bite is
painless but ALWAYS bleeds freely and is followed by dime size
wheal that itches intensely for several days. This fly has been
known to kill thousands of  animals in a single season and humans
exposed  to area of heavily blackflies infestation have in many
cases required hospitalization.

All 3 of these flies have a proven ability to transmit a variety
sometimes fatal diseases, including tularemia. Less noticeable
ticks and chiggers also transmit a variety of diseases, most
notably Lyme disease.

There are a number of  wild plants that can be used as an effective
insect repellent (specially catnip, cedar, and other mints), but
few are as effective as a single bottle of repellent containing
DEET stashed in the survival kit.

We do not recommend aerosol spray because it is bad for the ozone
layer besides taking too much room in your kit. A small bottle of
Muskol brand repellent contains 100% DEET and will last for weeks
in the wild. In the absence of insect repellent, the survivalist
can protect himself by covering his face, hands and other exposed
areas with a layer of mud.

Clothing should be buttoned as snugly as possible around the wrists
and neck and trousers' legs should be bloused or tied securely
around the ankles. Small, smoky "smudges" fires  can be set around
the perimeter of the camp to deter mosquitoes after dark and help
the survivalist get a good night's sleep.

SMUDGE FIRES:

Smudges fires are made by building a small hot fire and then
partially smothering it with wet leaves, grass or pine needles.
With a good bed of coals a smudge fire will smolder for several
hours and produce enough smoke to repel biting insects.

RECOMMENDED ITEMS FOR SURVIVAL KIT:

No survival kit will provide for every contingency in every
environment, but the following are pretty much generic to all
conditions.  Any working survival kit should contain each of these,
although those that have been recommended by name are offered
merely as suggestions and are subject to personal preference.

Survival Knife, Shrade M7-S or USAF survival knife.
Compass, Silva Type 3 / This survival book, Matches, wooden,
waterproof, strike anywhere" type. Butane lighter (I recommend 4)
2 on you at all times and 2 in your survival kit.

Fishing kit (in 35mm film canister) 
Space-blanket or large plastic tarp
Nylon cord 100 feet
1 blade survival knife **see? for inf.

Flashlight, AA Mini Mag-lite (batteries & bulbs)
Signal flares, gun or pencil type with launcher
Fire starting tables, Trioxane or Hexamine
Candles (at least 2)

Canteen, with metal cup, cover and belt (LBE)
Spare socks, 1 pair, wool is best.

Radio receiver, AM-FM with Weather Band
(Or  and with a Panasonic tracker**)
Medical supplies (see***) Poncho / sunglasses

OPTIONAL ITEMS FOR SURVIVAL KIT:

.22 rifle, Charter Arms AR-7 or Marlin 70-P
.22 ammo's, 100 rounds Remington Viper
Slingshot, latex tubing type
Gloves, leather & wool ones

Bush hat / Wire ties / Dog rag / Sewing kit
Insect repellent, bottle, 100% DEET
Spearhead, frog 3-tined
Prescription drugs (xylocaine, penicillin)

Here could go either an addition to it or a 3rd class of items ex:
soap, toothbrush, sponge, toilet paper, food / etc.

WHAT DO I DO FIRST?:

It is safe to say that anyone who suddenly finds himself thrust
into a do-or-die survival situation will not be in a clear state of
mind. This will be particularly true if he has been injured. 

Panic is the mortal enemy of anyone in a survival  situation. It
can and does cause people to do things that are counter-productive
to their survival, even to the point of being suicidal.

Since panic is a non-cerebral function, it can be most effectively
controlled by maintaining a logical approach to the task of staying
alive.

THE FIRST THING THE SURVIVALIST MUST DO IS MAKE HIMSELF AS
COMFORTABLE AS POSSIBLE.

The critical thinking portion of the mind is seriously hampered by
physical discomfort, so the survivalist needs to address the
requirement of his body before attempting to devise an escape plan.
He should apply first aid to any injuries, take an analgesic if in
pain, build a fire to warm himself or find or construct a shelter
if the weather is bad.

Once he has established a base camp and made himself as comfortable
as possible, the survivalist can then take stock of both his
supplies and his situation. Assuming that he has with him a
well-equipped survival kit and that each of its components has
withstood the ordeal up to that point.

He can use map if he has one and his compass to determine his
approximate location, learn what obstacle lies between himself and
civilization, and plot the most direct route back home.  If he has
a working radio receiver, he should use it, not only to gather
weather reports and forecasts, but also entertainment.

Proper attitude is also a vital  part of the survival process. The
way  one perceives his situation is at least as important as his
knowledge and skill. A successful survivalist is NEVER lost, only
momentarily perplex. He may wonder when he will get home, but NEVER
if he will get home.

In most cases, the survivalist's best option will be to walk back
to civilization. Before starting the trek, MAKE CERTAIN that you
have a good idea of where you are headed as possible. Travel as
lightly as you can, but not to the point of leaving behind
transportable tools that might have critical importance on the
trail.

If  package food is available, it should make up most of the weight
carried because the pack will become lighter as the food is eaten,
and REMEMBER, there is absolutely nothing to prevent you from
taking as many rest periods as you feel are necessary.

Forced march has no application in real life and is in fact
counterproductive. NEVER push yourself to the point of exhaustion
because a tired mind and body are apt to make dangerous even deadly
mistakes.

Based on our experience, a cold, tired survivalist who continues to
push on after his body tells him to stop will become irritable and
jumpy and may go right over the edge into a blind panic.

IN A NUTSHELL, ONE OF THE BIG SECRET TO SURVIVAL IS TO BE KIND TO
YOURSELF.

If you are cold, build a fire, if you are hungry, eat; and if you
are tired, rest. Believe in yourself and NEVER doubt your own
capabilities. 

All of us are born with inherent powerful survival instinct. That,
a few basic pieces of equipment, and a little bit of knowledge are
all that will be required to emerge alive and healthy from the most
challenging wilderness survival  situation. Believe it!

BEST CLOTHING = WOOL: BEST WOOL IS FROM RABBIT FUR.

MOST SURVIVAL SPECIALIST AGREE THAT THE  BEST CLOTHING FOR
RETAINING BODY HEAT IN WET WEATHER IS MADE FROM WOOL!

Gortex will help to keep you dry. Thinsulate Will keep you warm,
when you are dry, but ONLY WOOL will keep you warm when you are
soaking wet.**  (Eve-n- Soak- King wet!)

[section deleted]

NEARLY ALL COLD WEATHER FATALITIES OCCUR AMONG SPORTS HUNTERS: 

A group  from whom taking to wilderness without proper clothing,
preparation, or training is almost traditional...

In a study conducted by the NRA in 1978 it was determined that the
person least like to survive in extended stay in the wilderness was
the armed sport hunter.

[section deleted]

**********************************************************************
                    WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

THE FOLLOWING FILE IS NOT TERMINATED BUT SOON WILL BE DONE ASAP
IN HYPERTEXT AND WITH PIX WHEN NEED BE SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME
TILL THEN, MUCH INFORMATION CAN BE USED MEANWHILE FOR YOUR
ENJOYEMENT OR PLEASURE. MEANWHILE IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ME
SEND THEM UP BY E-MAIL TO:     richard@io.org

[section deleted]

SURVIVAL RATION BOX: * 

Sufficient ration of #hydrates de carbon# under all latitudes
assuring to the survivor about 500 calories/day.

THIS RATION BOX HAS BEEN TESTED BY  & FOR THE ARMY THUS GOOD FOR
CIVILIANS CONTAINING THE MAXIMUM OF UNIVERSAL ELEMENTS FOR
SURVIVAL.

It is called: "BEST UNIVERSAL RATION" because it contains the
best nutritive elements that CAN BE EATEN  with or without water
and yet giving enough energy to keep the body alive without
complications. IF one doesn't use too much energy.

1 gram of protein (with water) gives about: 400 calories / 1 gram
of fat = 800 calories / 1 gram #hydrate de carbon# with water =
400 calories.

This ration MUST be eaten as instructed for best result. For the
first day, if the survivor does not eat, he will draw his energy
in his own fat reserves coming from the food he ate the day
before.

WORK SPECIAL NOTE:

Thus it is recommended to do the most physical work such as
shelter construction, find and gathering fuel for fire, the
placing of signalization devices etc. as much as possible on the
first day when the survivor still has the maximum energy.

This survival ration is mainly composed of #hydrate de carbon#
but contains enough fat to gear the production of #sucs
gastriques# which will neutralise the stomach contraction which
gives hunger feelings.

It is next to impossible to starve in a wilderness if one knows
how to look for, if no game, look for fish, mollusc, birds,
plants, roots etc.

FOOD TO BRING: 

One MUST consider the weight and its nutritive and energetic
value in calories. The energy is measure in calories. A person in
good health spends easily 4,000 calories per day.

So 1 kilo of food MUST supply 400 calories per 100 grams of food
in order to make up for the lost. Only oils & dry food contains
as much.

The food MUST also contain 10% of protein (P) to help maintain
the skin tissues and at least 20% lipids (L) to increase the
resistance of the organism and as for the #Glucides# (G). See**
end of this chapter.

They give energy which if not used right away will be transformed
in fat which is not a problem for the men in the wild since fat
is beautiful even Vital. (Calories = Cal)    

In the following list** those who have less than 25 % are in
brackets. Spices are not included since their food value is low
but they have their value as to the taste buds and the moral. Dry
food sold in store is excellent, light, nourishing but costly.

So dry it yourself with the new invention from USA a drying
machine more on this to get information ****

RATIONS WISDOM:

ONE COULD LIVE MANY MONTHS WITH ONLY 4 ELEMENTS.

Powder milk, oil, enriched cereal and poly-vitamins capsules. I
would personally add: Spirolina, peanuts, barley, salt, sugar. As
well as fat, Pemmican and Pinhole, Gorp, Rockomini. ** See #? ***
for recipe.

FOOD PACK SURVIVAL 4lbs: *

1 lb. of Pemmican, 1 lb. of Pinhole, 1lb. salted peanuts, 1lb. of
Pinhole or Gorp.

SURVIVAL RATIONS: * 

Fat which in calories is the most concentrated food is the
sustenance most difficult to come by when living off the land.

Butter, lard, bacon dripping, tallow, oleomargarine has more than
twice as many calories pound for pound than sugar & nearly 3
times as much as honey.

Therefore in survival conditions include a preponderance or
priorities of EDIBLE fats with the idea of completing the diet
from natural sources.

Since bears eat insects such as larva, grubs; it maybe that the
best way to get your fat would be to do the same, meaning use the
insects to get your fat of the land if no other means available.

ALL SEEDS IN CONES RICH IN FAT, AND PROTEIN:  ***

(Find all seeds and roots which are rich in fat and protein and
have them first in the list of survival plants..)

BODY COOKING! REMEMBER:

ONCE YOUR FEET ARE WARMED UP WE FEEL WARMER ALL OVER & NOTHING IS
WARMER THAN 2 PAIRS OF SOCKS. (Wool is best of all.)

REMEMBER again, in order not to freeze body hands & feet one MUST
cover his head, even cover your forehead.

               YOU LOOSE 1/3 HEAT BY HEAD UNCOVERED. 
          SO COVER YOUR ASS AND HEAD EVEN YOUR NOSE!

[section deleted]

********************************************************************************
******
********************************************************************************
****
Editor's note: the next post and subsequent discussion revolves around survival
in a combat situation.  I myself ignore the military aspects and view it as just
another good list of things to think about in a survival situation.  Remember,
some of our soldiers get a LOT of training on how to live off the land and those
sources shouldn't be ignored.
********************************************************************************
******
********************************************************************************
******

From: J.Capell@zds.com (John L Capell)


Pack Inventory
(outside pockets of pack)
Canteen, 2 Quart
Rilfe Ammo Cases, 3 20 Round (60 rounds total)
Shotgun Shell Boxes, 3 5 Round 000 Buck
Shotgun Shell Band, 9 Rounds (+ boxes = 24 rounds total)
Shotgun Shells, Water Proof Clear Bagged, 6 spark Throwers, 3 Flares
Radio, 2-meter Handheld
Clear Parka
Glock Folding Shovel & Branch Saw
Ghilli Suit
(inside pouch of Pack)
Pack of Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt, Water Proof Clear Bagged
Flashlight
Duct Tape / Electrical Tape / Spool of Fishing Line / Zip Ties
Fence/Wire Cutters
Pepper Spray
First Aid Kit (Standard kit , + added items)
        Emergency Blanket
        Chap Stick
        Asprin
        Water Purifier Tablets (1 bottle)
        Toenail/Fingernail Clippers
        Cough Drops
        Snakebite kit
Clear Parka
Toilet Paper, Water Proof Clear Bagged
Wire Hand Band Saw
Magnesium Fire Starter Block
Pistol holster, Trouser Belt Type
Mantenance Kit for Mini Mag Light (lens, batteries, bulbs)
3 Compasses, Map Type, Hiking Type, Zipper-Pull type
Several Green Trash Bags, Large
Quick Energy Food Pack(s)
Scope Lens Cleaner (Lens Pen)
Spare Battery for Leica Laser Range Finder
Misc Writing Utensils, Pads, Pencil Sharpener, Waterproof notebook, Black Marker
Sewing Kit
Ranger Hand Book / Medical Hand Book
Chewing Gum
Gatoraide Mix (2 - 2qt packs)
Canteen Water Purifier Unit
Lighters (2)
Face Paint
Mirror
Extra Shoe Laces
Hearing Protection (Ear Plugs)
Insect Repellant
Swiss Army Knife
Small Phillips/Standard Screw Driver
Scope/Rifle Allen wrench kit
Gun Cleaning Kit
Lubricating Oil
Solvent Bottle / Powder & Copper Solvent
 Combat Harness Inventory
Alice Belt, Load Bearing Y-Harness
Pistol Holster, Leg Harness Type
Glock 19 Loaded with 15 rounds FEDERAL HYDRA SHOKs
Canteen, 1 Quart
Mini-Mag Light (Spare bulb in base) red Lens
Leatherman Super Tool
Double Pistol Magazine Pouch
        Two (2) GLOCK Model-19 15 round pistol magazines
        Loaded with 14 rounds each FEDERAL HYDRA SHOKs
Double Edged 6" Blade Knife
Duty Pouch
        Rifle Ammo Band Loaded w/ 20 Rounds .300 Win Mag
        Notebook & Pencil, Water Proof Clear Bagged

Uniform Bag Inventory
High Top Black Leather/Canvas Boots (not in bag)
Gum Bottom Shoes
Hat, Black Floppy
Belt, Trouser, Green
Shorts, Green
BDU Pants, Long
Long Sleeve Outer Shirt, Black
Long Sleeve Outer Shirt, Camo
Sunglasses
Boot Knife (Spiderco)
Gloves, Black, 2 pair, Thick & Thin
Head Cover, Stretch, Black
Pack of Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt, WP Clear Bagged
Wrist Watch
Document Wallet
Several Plastic Bags, Large, for Gear Stashing

Spare Uniform Bag Inventory
(all WP clear bagged)
3 Packs Underwear, Socks, Brown T-Shirt
2 Pair BDU Pants, Long
2 Long Sleeve Outer Shirts, Black

Additional Items

Leica 1000m Laser Range Finder/Binoculars, Soft Case
Night Vision Binoculars, Soft Case

Primary Weapons
Custom Remington 700 BDL Heavy Barrel, Leupold Mark 4 Scope
Winchester Defender 12 Gauge Shotgun, Pistol Grip Stock, Pack-Clips on Sling
 ____________________________________________________________________
 
From: wendel@wendel.se (S.O.Wendel)

I don't have the time right now to comment on each and every item that you 
listed (and especially did not list) but I would like to say this:

1. The stuff you listed weighs a lot more than 25-30 lbs.

2. You MUST be able to carry each and every item of kit in your back-pack 
or on your person. You CAN NOT depend on someone else to take care of it 
for you.

3. You must bring clothing for every season of the year. The actual items 
of clothing would be different, depending on where in the US you live. But 
you must bring it all. And you MUST always bring two pairs of boots. 
Preferably one pair of all leather boots (Gore-Tex if you can afford it) 
and one pair of cooler boots.

4. If you carry a civilian rifle make sure that it has a fibre-glass or 
carbon fibre stock, preferably of a thumb-hole design. A civilian wooden 
stock will break.

5. Bring a knife with a longer blade than 6". It should be 7" or more. The 
Ka-Bar USMC knife, or the new SOG Seal Team 2000 would be fine. Especially 
the latter (which is what I use nowadays). You need three knives, just as 
you listed, a 7-8" blade one, a 5" folder (folding hunter or Spyderco 
Clipit Endura) and a Swiss Army type.

6. You must carry a light weight camping stove. The Coleman Peak 1 range is 
good (especially the Feather 442 that burns ordinary unleaded gas). You 
must also carry pots and a small frying pan. Aluminum, not stainless steel. 
And remember, you must be able to survive on your own so you must carry all 
the food you need for at least 2-3 days. And BTW forget the Army-type mess 
kit, it's too heavy. Get something light weight.

7. You need a lightweight sleeping bag. And what the British call a 
"bivvy-bag" to use instead of a tent. If you want to fight like the Rangers 
you must be able to live like the Rangers.

8. Get a GOOD compass. Some of the Swedish-made Silvas are among the best 
you can get at any price. And MAPS of the area where you intend to operate.

9. First aid kit.

10. You need a lot more than 60 rounds of ammo. Be prepared to carry 180 
rounds or more just for yourself, for starters. Plus your share of whatever 
is needed for support weapons like MG's and the like. If you can get hold 
of a couple of Carl Gustav AT Recoilless Rifles, with an ample supply of 
high-explosive and HEAT rounds, then that would come in handy. They're the 
best. Get the version with the carbon-fibre reinforced tube, it weighs 
less than the all-steel tube. A few AT-4's could be a substitute, but then 
you wouldn't have the HE capability.

11. And before you do anything get the following books and memorize what's 
in them:

        a)      US Army Ranger Handbook (ST 21-75-2)
        b)      An infantryman's guide to urban combat (FM 90-10-1)
        c)      USMC Sniping (Available as ISBN 0-87947-420-3, published by
                Desert Publications, Cornville, AZ)

12. And finally, make sure that you are able to carry it all for extended 
periods of time. Say 25 miles a day for a number of days in a row. And I'm 
not kidding, you'll need that if you want to fight like Rangers, which is 
what you would have to do in order to survive. If you're in good shape you 
can do it. I have personally taken part in the International 100-mile 
Marches in Nijmegen, Holland, two years in a row. There you do 25 miles a 
day for four consecutive days, with a pack, marching at good speed. (Some 
8,000 military personnel from up to 20 different countries, including some 
500 US Army and USAF, take part every year).

From: mcdaniel@u.washington.edu (Henry McDaniel)
J.Capell@zds.com (John L Capell) writes:

Add:

Antibiotics.  If you visit the doctor and get any, save some.  They
usually give you more than you need anyhow.

Binoculars/ field glasses.

Gas mask with filter(s).

Bandages (large-small), cotton roll, water-proof tape, cotton swabs/q-tips.
and other assorted goodies.  Everyone should carry some medical supplies.


You need a good watch.  It should be water proof, have a timer and
night light.  Mine is a "Timex Expedition" with features:  compass
ring, analog and digital display, two timezones, two alarms, timer,
stopwatch, night light.

Bed roll.. optional of course.


By the way a superb battery is RAYOVAC MAXIMUM AKALINES.  They seem
to last forever in storage or in use.  No joke...  I've had two
in one flashlight for a year now.. they are still going strong (and
I do use this light for hours at a time on occasion.)  And before
being put in the flashlight they were in storage for TWO YEARS.
Chek em' out.  Stay away from Ni-Cad rechargeables!

From: wendel@wendel.se (S.O.Wendel)

When you start out you bring food for 2-3 days with you. That is intended as a
reserve. When you're in the field you will have to "live off the land"
(suggested reading: John Wiseman's "The SAS Survival Handbook", read it and
learn, you'll need it!). No Big Mac's for the duration, you know.

**********************************************************************
Basic Survival Equipment By Michael Ironwolf

[section deleted]

In any survival situation, the basic needs of food, water and shelter
must be met as well as personal protection from those attempting
to appropriate YOUR food, water and shelter. We should expect an
increase in the number of individuals interested in survival. In
addition, after observing the lawlessness that occurred in St. Croix
what with the military HELPING the looters, we should also expect
some "SOFT Survivalists" (NO GUNS) to become "Hard Survivalists"
(LOTS OF GUNS). Please welcome them into our ranks. (They didn't
know any better). This basic list of individual equipment will
give anyone, veteran or newbie, a place to start obtaining the
hardware they will need in the very near future.

The following list of equipment should be considered a BASIC
load and will continue to be improved as finances permit.
Ideally, your "Bug Out Bag" is utilized to provide for your
needs enroute to your retreat site or if relocation is
necessary due to pursuit by an invading army or secret police.

Your personal equipment demands the best that money can buy. In
almost every case this is government issue or contract overrun
produced equipment. Take advantage of the millions of dollars
of R & D the government has done and buy things that will
literally last decades if properly maintained.

            Mandatory Basic Equipment Survey Checklist

3   Bag, Duffle, G.I., Nylon, Type II, O.D.
1   Belt, Pistol, Nylon, LC-2, O.D.
1   Harness, LBE "Y" or "H", Nylon, O.D.
2   Cover, Canteen, Nylon, O.D., 1 qt.
1   Cup, Canteen, Steel, 1 qt.
2   Canteen, Plastic, O.D., 1 qt.
3   Opener, Can, P-38, Steel or Aluminum
1   Utensil, Eating, Knife/Fork/Spoon
1   Kit, Mess, G.I.,   Steel or Aluminum
3   Matches, Waterproof/Windproof, Survival, Boat
2   Knife, Combat, U.S.M.C. K-Bar or Equiv
2   Pouch, Magazine, G.I., Nylon, O.D., 3 X 30 rd.
1   Shovel, Tri-fold, (G.I. Reconditioned NOT Chinese Import !)
1   Cover, Shovel, Nylon or Neoprene
1   Buttpack w/carrying Strap, G.I., O.D. (Nylon or Web)
1   Sling, Silent, 1 1/4" or M60 GPMG
1   Compass, Lensmatic, G.I., O.D., Tritium
1   Compass, Backup (Silva or Equiv)
1   Blanket, G.I., O.D., 80% Wool
1   Bag, Sleeping, G.I., O.D., Intermediate (Synthetic NOT Down)
2   Pouch, First Aid/Compass, Empty
1   Flashlight, Anglehead, O.D. or Black
1   Frame, Ruck, ALICE, LC-2 (or LC-1)
1   Ruck, ALICE, large or medium, G.I., Nylon, O.D.
1   Pr. Straps, Shoulder, Quick Release, ALICE, LC-2,(or LC-1)
1   Waist Belt, ALICE LC-2 (only)
1   Bladder, Canteen, 5 qt.
1   Poncho, Camo, Nylon , G.I., (1 req'd., 2 recommended)
1   Poncho, O.D., Rubber, G.I.
1   Liner, Poncho, Camouflage
1   pr. Pants, Rain, O.D. or Camo
1   Case, Map, Assault Systems type, Small
1   Kit, 1st Aid, Parachutist, Complete
1   Stove, Special Forces, ESBIT Type, Small
9   Hexamine, Bar, Heating (For Stove)
1   Carbiner, Steel, Black, (Search & Rescue Type)
1   Webbing, Tubular, 1" Black, Swiss seat, 14' long
1   Mirror, Distress, Signal, 2' X 3", G.I.
3   Repellent, Insect, G.I.
2   Stick, Camo.,Shades-Loam,light green,Sand,White,Etc.
1   Balm, Lip, Artic
1   Balm, Lip, Hot Climate (With #35 Sunscreen)
2   Bot Tab, Water Purifier (Potable Aqua) (Iodine NOT Chlorine)
1   Filter, Water, Micro-ceramic, (First Need)
2   Soap, Ivory (UNSCENTED)
2   Toothbrush/Toothpaste
1   Razor
1   Washcloth, O.D.
1   Towel, O.D.
1   Can, Silicone, Waterproofing Spray
4   Ration, MRE, G.I., Current Manufacture

                 Mandatory Clothing Survey Checklist

1   pr. Boots, Combat or Jungle
1   pr. Laces, Boot
3   pr. Socks, O.D., cushion Sole or Equiv.
3   Shirts, T.,Choice of: O.D.,Black, AIRR, or Camo
1   pr. Shells, gloves, D3A
1   pr. Liners, gloves, D3A, wool, O.D.
1   Sweater, Wool, Choice of O.D.,Black, or Camo. ONLY
1   Sweater, Acrylic, Same as above, ONLY IF ALLERGIC to WOOL
1   Belt, Pants
1   set Long Underwear, Black, Thermax
2   set Pants and Shirt set, Fatigue, Camouflage, Ripstop
        G.I.Woodland, G.I.Tigerstripe Viet-Nam
1   Jacket, Field, M65          Pattern of Uniform Chosen.
1   Liner, Jacket, Field, M-65
1   Cap, Patrol, Ear Flaps,     Pattern Of Uniform Chosen
1   Cap, Boonie,                Pattern Of Uniform Chosen


               Minimum Weapon Requirement

1   Rifle, Colt AR-15
1   Kit, Cleaning (Rod, Patches, Oil)
1   Case, Kit, Cleaning
7   Magazine, Colt AR-15, 30 Round
600 Rounds .223 Ammunition

1   Pistol, U.S. Govt Issue Type
            .45 Cal Colt Govt
            9mm Beretta 92F
            9mm SIG SAUER P226
3   Magazine, Pistol, 15 Round
200 Rounds Ammunition


Tips & Tricks :

1. The ammunition requirements are BARE MINIMUM. Should you be
   forced to defend yourself, you and your team could eat up
   a case of 1000 rounds in 6 or 7 MINUTES! Stock up now !

2. Always purchase surplus used excellent/very good or contract
   production overruns. DO NOT BUY overseas imports (except for
   Korean Jungle Boots...OK) or reproductions. You NEED the
   tough mil spec construction/materials.

3. Your sleeping bag should ALWAYS be synthetic (holofil) or
   equivalent. DO NOT USE GOOSE DOWN. It gets wet, you freeze.
   You freeze, You die.

4. Water purification tablets should be IODINE based. Chlorine
   based tablets do not kill giardia parasites.

5. Use an unscented soap like ivory. Its cheap, keeps for
   a long time and is a good CATFISH BAIT for fishing. In
   addition, heavy perfume scents can be detected by animals
   in the bush (2 & 4 footed animals)

6. Don't be afraid to take advantage of the new fabrics to make
   like more comfortable. Gortex (waterproof), Thermax (warmth)
   and Kevlar (antiballistic) are very useful. In addition,
   use of silicone waterproofing spray on cammies, boots, packs
   and sleeping bags is recommended.

7. When packing your kit ALWAYS distribute the weight evenly.
   Remember that someone besides an adult male (wife, children)
   may be forced to "get started" without you.

8. The construction of your "Bug Out Bag" is a personal project
   and should reflect your personal needs. It is not a good idea
   to buy a cute little prepackaged "survival bag", set it in
   the closet and forget it. Remember that 35-40% of the cost of
   that product is "profit" to the dealer. Good equipment at
   good prices can be had at small surplus stores, gun shows
   and even better deals can be had by mail order.

If you are a serious equipment buyer, immediately purchase the
Live Free Report on "Buying Surplus" for an EXCELLENT background
on equipment purchasing. Next time we will discuss current sources
of military equipment and surplus.

This equipment list is an expanded version of a list originally
posted on Ken Segers Survival Bulletin Board 821-2815 St Louis.
Support your survival computer bulletin boards.

For a complete list of reports on preparedness subjects and the most
recent version of "Survival Sources" please send a LSASE and $1 To:
Research Reports  P.O. Box 42003-214  Phoenix, AZ  85080=8A

**********************************************************************

                Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit - FEMA


Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit

After a disaster, local officials and relief workers will be on the
scene, but they cannot reach everyone immediately.  You could get help
in hours, or it may take days.  Would your family be prepared to cope
with the emergency until help arrives?

Your family will cope best by preparing for disaster before it strikes.
One way to prepare is by assembling a Disaster Supplies Kit.  Once
disaster hits, you won't have time to shop or search for supplies.  But
if you've gathered supplies in advance, your family can endure an
evacuation or home confinement.

To prepare your kit

Review the checklists in this document.

Gather the supplies that are listed.  You may need them if your family
is confined at home.

Place the supplies you'd most likely need for an evacuation in an easy-
to-carry container.  These supplies are listed with an asterisk (*).

Disasters happen anytime and anywhere.  And when disaster strikes, you
may not have much time to respond.

A highway spill of hazardous material could mean instant evacuation.

A winter storm could confine your family at home.  An earthquake, flood,
tornado or any other disaster could cut off basic services--gas, water,
electricity and telephones--for days.

Water

Store water in plastic containers such as soft drink bottles.  Avoid
using containers that will decompose or break, such as milk cartons or
glass bottles.  A normally active person needs to drink at least two
quarts of water each day.  Hot environments and intense physical
activity can double that amount.  Children, nursing mothers and ill
people will need more.

Store one gallon of water per person per day (two quarts for drinking,
two quarts for food preparation/sanitation)*

Keep at least a three-day supply of water for each person in your
household.

Food

Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food.  Select foods
that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or no
water.  If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno. Select food items
that are compact and lightweight. *Include a selection of the following
foods in your Disaster Supplies Kit:

Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables

Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)

Staples--sugar, salt, pepper

High energy foods--peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars, trail
mix

Vitamins

Foods for infants, elderly persons or persons on special diets

Comfort/stress foods--cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops,
instant coffee, tea bags

First Aid Kit

Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each car.  A first
aid kit* should include:

     -  Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
     -  2-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
     -  4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
     -  Hypoallergenic adhesive tape
     -  Triangular bandages (3)
     -  2-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
     -  3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
     -  Scissors
     -  Tweezers
     -  Needle
     -  Moistened towelettes
     -  Antiseptic
     -  Thermometer
     -  Tongue blades (2)
     -  Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant
     -  Assorted sizes of safety pins
     -  Cleansing agent/soap
     -  Latex gloves (2 pair)
     -  Sunscreen

Non-prescription drugs

     -  Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever
     -  Anti-diarrhea medication
     -  Antacid (for stomach upset)
     -  Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison
        Control Center)
     -  Laxative
     -  Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)

Contact your local American Red Cross chapter to obtain a basic first
aid manual.

SUPPLIES

There are six basics you should stock in your home: water, food, first
aid supplies, clothing and bedding, tools and emergency supplies and
special items.  Keep the items that you would most likely need during an
evacuation in an easy-to-carry container--suggested items are marked
with an asterisk(*).  Possible containers include a large, covered trash
container; a camping backpack; or a duffle bag.

Tools and Supplies

Mess kits, or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils*
Emergency preparedness manual*
Battery-operated radio and extra batteries*
Flashlight and extra batteries*
Cash or traveler's checks, change*
Nonelectric can opener, utility knife*
Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type
Tube tent
Pliers
Tape
Compass
Matches in a waterproof container
Aluminum foil
Plastic storage containers
Signal flare
Paper, pencil
Needles, thread
Medicine dropper
Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water
Whistle
Plastic sheeting
Map of the area (for locating shelters)


Sanitation

Toilet paper, towelettes*
Soap, liquid detergent*
Feminine supplies*
Personal hygiene items*
Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)
Plastic bucket with tight lid
Disinfectant
Household chlorine bleach


Clothing and Bedding

* Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per
  person.

Sturdy shoes or work boots*
Hat and gloves
Rain gear*
Thermal underwear
Blankets or sleeping bags*
Sunglasses


Special Items

Remember family members with special needs, such as infants and elderly
or disabled persons.

For Baby*

Formula
Diapers
Bottles
Powdered milk
Medications

For Adults*

Heart and high blood pressure medication
Insulin
Prescription drugs
Denture needs
Contact lenses and supplies
Extra eye glasses

Entertainment--games and books.

Important Family Documents

Keep these records in a waterproof, portable container.

Will, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds
     Passports, social security cards, immunization records
Bank account numbers
Credit card account numbers and companies
Inventory of valuable household goods, important telephone numbers
Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)


SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS

Store your kit in a convenient place known to all family members.  Keep
a smaller version of the Disaster Supplies Kit in the trunk of your car.

Keep items in air-tight plastic bags.

Change your stored water supply every six months so it stays fresh.

Rotate your stored food every six months.

Re-think your kit and family needs at least once a year.  Replace
batteries, update clothes, etc.

Ask your physician or pharmacist about storing prescription medications.

CREATE A FAMILY DISASTER PLAN

To get started...

Contact your local emergency management or civil defense office and your
local American Red Cross chapter. Find out which disasters are most
likely to happen in your community. Ask how you would be warned. Find
out how to prepare for each.

Meet with your family.
Discuss the types of disasters that could occur.
Explain how to prepare and respond.
Discuss what to do if advised to evacuate.
Practice what you have discussed.


Plan how your family will stay in contact if separated by disaster. Pick
two meeting places: 1) a location a safe distance from your home in case
of fire. 2) a place outside your neighborhood in case you can't return
home. Choose an out-of-state friend as a "check-in contact" for everyone
to call.

Complete these steps.

Post emergency telephone numbers by every phone.
Show responsible family members how and when to shut off water, gas and
     electricity at main switches.
Install a smoke detector on each level of your home, especially near
     bedrooms; test monthly and change the batteries two times each
     year.
Contact your local fire department to learn about home fire hazards.
Learn first aid and CPR.  Contact your local American Red Cross chapter
     for information and training.


Meet with your neighbors.

Plan how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster.  Know
your neighbors' skills (medical, technical).  Consider how you could
help neighbors who have special needs, such as elderly or disabled
persons.  Make plans for child care in case parents can't get home.

Remember to practice and maintain your plan.

The Federal Emergency Management Agency's Family Protection Program and
the American Red Cross Disaster Education Program are nationwide efforts
to help people prepare for disasters of all types. For more information,
please contact your local or State Office of Emergency Management, and
your local American Red Cross chapter.  Ask for "Your Family Disaster
Plan" and the "Emergency Preparedness Checklist."

Or write to:

FEMA  
P.O. Box 70274 
Washington, D.C. 20024 
FEMA L- 189 
ARC 4463
.



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