Necessity is the mother of invention and early candles sometimes
took rather bizarre forms to utilize available resources. The use
of, and improvements to candles has parallelled mans ascent from the
stone age. There is no historical record of the first candles used
by man, however clay candle holders dating from the fourth century
B.C. have been found in Egypt. Early Chinese and Japanese candles
were made with wax derived from insects and seeds molded in paper
tubes. Wax skimmed from boiling cinnamon was the basis of tapers for
temple use in India. It is the Romans who are credited with
developing the wick candle, using it to aid travelers at dark, and
lighting homes and places of worship at night. The first known
candle in America dates to the first century A.D. Native Americans
burned oily fish (candlefish) wedged into a forked stick (YUCK!!!).
Early missionaries in the southwestern United States boiled the bark
of the Cerio tree and skimmed the wax. Settlers in New England used
the same technique to obtain wax from Bayberries. To this day
Bayberry candles are made the same way, although cost is prohibitive
since it takes one and a half quarts of Bayberries to make an 8 inch
taper candle. Tallow, made by rendering animal fat was another
common candle making material. Because of its odor, beeswax was
preferred although more expensive. The advent of paraffin in the
1800's made tallow obsolete, and it is rarely used in candles
anymore.

Candle making as we know it began in the 13th. century when
traveling chandlers went door to door making dipped tapers from
their clients tallow or beeswax (wealthier clients). The first use
of molds for candle making was in 15th. century Paris.

The Renaissance of candle crafting was during the 19th. century.
Candle molding machines were developed in the first half of the
century. In 1811 pioneer work lead to the development of stearin.
The braided wick was introduced in 1825. This year also saw the
manufacture of stearic acid (a candle additive used to harden and
opacify wax) begin. Paraffin development began in 1830. A continuous
wicking machine was invented in 1834. Mordanting of wicks was a
major breakthrough in 1834. Mordanting causes the burned end of the
wick to curl outside of the flame zone where it turns to ash.
Manufactured paraffin was introduced in 1850, providing an
alternative to tallow. In 1854 paraffin and stearin were combined to
create stronger candles, very similar to those we use today.

Chandlery has pretty much continued to this day with few changes,
other than differences in styles. Mold technology has improved, new
additives are available such as dyes, and scents. Most modern
candles are made of Paraffin, although beeswax candles are
undergoing a recent surge in popularity. Bayberry candles are still
made, but rare.

The term candlepower is based on a measurement of the light produced
by a pure spermaceti candle weighing one sixth of a pound, burning
at a rate of 120 grams per hour. Spermaceti is found in the head of
Sperm Whales, and once was used to make candles.

Making Hand Dipped Candles

Materials:
* Plain Paraffin Wax ( about 1/2 a pound) can be found at grocery
stores & craft shops

* Double Boiler or you can use a large coffee can for melting wax
in, inserted in a pot filled half full of water. (Never place the
container of wax directly on the heat source as it poses a severe
fire hazard.) I Use an old coffee pot from a thrift shop.

*Wooden Spoon for stirring

*Bowls: for cold water baths

*Candle Thermometer. Also candy or meat thermometer works just as
well.

*Heat. Kitchen stove.

*Wick: available in most craft and hobby stores in various sizes.
The size of the wick is important. The sizes increase in 1/2 inch
variations. Use this as a guide. 1/2" wick to 1/2" candle. A 1" wick
is suitable for a 1" candle etc.

*Color: you can get it in cakes,chips, powdered or liquid forms
which is usually available in craft stores or you can also use
crayons but it doesn't burn as well.

*Scents: you can use fragrance oil or concentrated chips available
at craft shops. The oil you use must be pure oil and have no water
or alcohol base.

Directions for making hand dipped candles:

1. Begin by cutting up your wax in small pieces so it will melt
quicker.

2. Next heat the water using a medium temperature, bring to a gentle
boil. Place the wax in the double broiler or if you are using a
coffee can place the can into the water.* Don't use high heat, it
may cause the wax to catch on fire.

3. Stir the wax until it is completely melted and it reaches a
temperature of 160 F or 71 Celsius.(Test the temperature by placing
the thermometer in the center of the melted liquid). Turn the heat
down. Keep water warm enough to keep the wax melted.

4. Now its time to add your color. Add the crayons or color chips to
the melted wax. Add a little at a time until you have reached the
desired shade. Make note that the wax changes colors to a shade
lighter when it cools. Test it by allowing a spoonful to dry on a
plate. Once you have the shade you like, it would be a good idea to
write down the amounts you have used so you can make it again.

5. You can now add the scent if you wanted scented candles. The more
oil you use, the stronger the scent will be. Keep in mind that
adding too much may affect the way the candle burns, moderation is
the key to having nicely scented candles. Stir until well blended.

6. Make sure the wax stays melted. Check that the temperature of the
wax is still 160F/71 C.

7. Now on to the next stage. Begin with cutting the wick to the
desired length of candles plus a little extra to hold. Example: If
you want 2 ten inch candles cut about 23 inches of wick. You will be
making two at the same time. Double over the wick over your finger.
Here's where the dipping starts. Dip the wick in the wax for a few
seconds then lift back out. Allow the wax to cool between dippings
about a minute or so. You may find it a little tricky to get started
at first because the wick floats on top of the wax until it gets
weighed down. Don't worry before long you'll get the hang of it.
Just make sure the wet candles don't touch each other.

8. Continue the dipping and cooling process. After a few layers,
although not necessary, you can speed up the cooling process by
dipping the candles in cool water after each wax dip.

9. Repeat the process until the candles have reached the proper
thickness. If lumps occur, roll warm candles on a smooth surface.

10. Increase the temperature until it reaches 182 F. Dip the pair
into the wax one more time for a few seconds. Lift out then let them
cool.

11. Using a sharp knife trim the bottoms to remove excess wax and to
create a straight edge bottom for you candles.

12. Hang your candles to dry. Once they are dried you can cut the
wick. Time to enjoy your new creation!

Safety tips for candle making

1. Never leave children alone with melting or melted wax. Because it
does not boil or steam, they may not realize how hot it is.

2. Never leave hot wax alone.

3. Never heat wax over 275° F, wax flashes from liquid to flame at
375° F.

4. Never let wax come in contact with flames. If you develop a wax
fire, treat it as you would a grease fire. Do not throw water on it.
Use a fire extinguisher (type ABC) or if it is contained in a pan,
cover with a lid, extinguish any heat source and leave the lid in
place until the area has cooled.

5. Use a temperature gauge and always know what the temperature is
at all times.

6. Always use the water bath method of melting wax, never place your
wax container directly on the heat source. Also, use a wire rack to
keep the wax container from resting on the bottom of the water pan.
Keep a close watch on the water level, it will evaporate quickly and
must be replenished frequently. When done this way and properly
supervised, you will eliminate any flash potential.

7. Don't pour wax down the drain, it will block them.


Canning Jar Candles

BY RACHEL PAXTON
© Copyright 2001
Canning jar candles are very easy to make, make great gifts, and are
only limited by your imagination!

To start all you need are some old wide mouth canning jars, wire
ribbon, potpourri, votive candles, small glass votive candle
holders, and craft glue or a hot glue gun.

If you don't have any old canning jars, you can find some very
inexpensively at thrift stores and yard sales. Wire ribbon can be a
little expensive. Look for it at yard sales and at craft store
clearance sales. The after-Christmas sales a great time to stock up.
One roll of ribbon will make several canning jar candles. Potpourri
you can make yourself or buy on sale. Votive candles are inexpensive
at stores like Target or Walmart, and you can also find glass votive
candle holders very inexpensively at Walmart. You want one that will
set in the rim of the canning jar.

You can fill the canning jar with whatever you wish. Potpourri is
one of the easiest fillers. I bought a nice autumn-scented potpourri
and added some orange slices I'd dried in my food dehydrator. You
can also add dried cranberries, apple slices, or cinnamon sticks.

After you fill the jar, you set the candle holder inside the mouth
of the jar. The top of the candle holder should be even with the top
of the jar.

You might have a little trial and error before you find just the
right candle holder. Place the candle in the holder and then use the
ribbon to tie a big bow around the neck of the jar. That's it! (You
might want to use a little craft glue or your glue gun to tack the
ribbon in place).

You can glue some dried fruit, flowers, or other decorations on the
bow for a more decorative look. You can also put other things in the
jar besides potpourri. I've seen one half filled with white sugar
with a short white taper candle set down in the sugar. Very pretty!
And that one doesn't require the candle holder.

At Christmas you can purchase small ornaments and place them in the
jar instead of the potpourri.

Any small figurine would do--in the spring you could use little
bunnies. Maybe fill a jar with marbles or layers of colored sand.
Even pennies! Use your imagination. These candles make great gifts
and are also fun to make for yourself. If you get tired of one just
empty it out and start again!

Lehmans carries candlewax in both parafin and beeswax as well as
tube candle molds.

http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?
itemID=224&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=669&iSubCat=686&iProductID=224

(Sorry I didnt remember how to make a tiny uhl - maybe someone can
help me there?)

Once you get the idea for making these candles you will know how to
make a big block candle when you can find a mold big enough

Just so you are aware.. I do not recommend the synthetic scents in
candles and parafin is a petroleum product which is a known
carcinagen. Beware of wicks that have a metal lead center in
them.Petroleum is processed into motor oil, gasoline, kerosene,
diesel, heating oil and other fuels. One of the first items produced
when "cracking" petroleum is paraffin. This is essentially a toxic
waste product. In most industries, getting rid of toxic waste is
very expensive. Because petroleum waste can be made into paraffin,
plastic, etc., the oil industry profits handsomely from this waste
material.

When it was first discovered that petroleum could be made into
paraffin, there was no real awareness of the toxins and poisons. But
now, though numerous toxins and carcinogenic agents have been
identified and documented, companies continue to produce paraffin
candles and sell this toxin-laden product to an unsuspecting public.

IF you can find soybean wax this is a OG alternative. Also contact
your local beekeeper and ask about buying wax for candlemaking.

tenzicut

