                 WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
                              
THE FOLLOWING FILE IS NOT TERMINATED BUT SOON WILL BE DONE
ASAP IN HYPERTEXT AND WITH PIX WHEN NEED BE SO PLEASE BARE
WITH ME TILL  THEN,  MUCH  INFORMATION CAN BE  USED
MEANWHILE  FOR  YOUR ENJOYEMENT OR PLEASURE. MEANWHILE IF
YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ME SEND THEM UP BY E-MAIL TO:
richard@io.org

MOVING TIP STEEP SLOPE:

You  MUST REMEMBER that the straight line is not necessarily
the fastest way to go from one point to another. Determine
carefully your path by following the terrain  offering the
best walking conditions even if you have to walk farther by
a couple mile. At the end you'll be the winner.

A  steep slope of 25 feet till takes you the same time as to
walk around  for 300 feet. And it may be less tiring and
dangerous  to go around. Saving energy is ESSENTIAL in Survival!

THE MOST ENERGY SAVING WAY TO CLIMB A SLOPE:

50 degree angle and bend down so low that your hands nearly
drag in the snow and do it in zigzag.

CLIMBING:

This  is not a full course in climbing but we enumerate and
will explain some basic technique that may serve your life.
REMEMBER:

10 BASIC RULES:

1)   NEVER RAISE TOGETHER THE HAND AND THE FOOT.

2)    Ensure  your  footing or holding BEFORE giving 
      your full weight.

3)   You MUST test the solidity of each hold before you make
     a go for it.

4)   In climbing keep the body AWAY FROM THE ROCK & LOOK UP.

5)    Move  only  one hand or one foot at a time.
      ALWAYS KEEP 3 POINTS CONTACT.

6)   It is ALWAYS safer to go around rather than over
     obstacles.

7)    Keep  your weight evenly balanced on the feet  rather
      than hang from the hands. Do not over-stretch.

8)    Avoid  becoming spread eagle, & let the legs  do  most
      the work.

9)    ALWAYS  place the feet as flat as possible to make
      maximum contact with the rock.

10)  And be sure that you have planned your next move OOPS!

USE OF THE #HOLDS prises?#:

Hand  and foot type, the foot type being the most important
since they are stronger than our arms.

While posing your foot on a big hold there is little
problem, you just unfold the leg to stand up but if it is a
small one they you have to use its best and to wed yourself
perfectly to its shape.

Whatever  a  hold is narrow, inclined or even at 45  degree,
one MUST succeed to place the maximum of the shoe's sole. So
in order to  do  this, one MUST observe carefully the holds
before resting on it.

Once  the  foot  is in place it will and MUST not move  till
the other foot is also strongly and securely placed. Then
the hands will also look for their hold, sometime  on  only
one hold and the body will rise up all on one foot.

But before this movement takes care to find & notice another
hold to  be  able to bring the free foot. One progress from
holds  to holds, studying the terrain as one progress.

AND IF THERE IS NO #HOLDS prises?#:

In general it is because you have not look well enough even
if it is  true  that the holds are small even minute, these
very  small holds are called #passing holds (de passage) #,
using them in one movement to pass to a more comfortable hold.

If there are totally no Holds whatsoever then you MUST
invent one or  find something else for the feet to wedge or
jam or to  stick and   for  the  hands  using  traction  or
#verrous# and also opposition.

JAMMING:

The  cracks  that run along the cliff serve to many
purposes.  A vertical crack wide enough could receive the
end of the shoe then a small torsion and it becomes just as
strong as a normal #hold.# To  free  one  self  one  just
gives  a  twist  in  the  opposite direction.

#VERROUS LOCKS#:

In  the absence of holds for hands, one can insert fingers
in the vertical cracks & lock them, meaning introduce the
fingers upside down & twist them, then pull on them, it is
not very pleasant one must say, but if there are no holds
whatsoever...

TRACTION:

Speaking  of hand holds one can use and try all kinds of
traction to  maintain the balance of the body while moving
his  feet.  You just  have to locate some bumps or studs of
rocks and to pull  on it in the opposite sense to your situation.

If  it is under you in reverse you pull upward, if it is on
your left  you pull on the right while hanging the weight of
your body on  it.  This type of traction is often just as
good as  a  frank holding. #prise franche#

OPPOSITION:

For  the  beginner this is the least instinctive of the
climbing technique  but  you  MUST learn it for it will  be
of  much  use particularly in chimney situation & #diedres#
where  one  can  do the  opposition  of  his feet widely
spaced as  well  as  in  the presence  of  cracks  that  you
try to  separate.  This  powerful traction  in  opposite
direction done by the arms  can  supply  a remarkable
leaning point to work on your climbing.

When you read in all climbing books about the 3 points
#holding 3 points  d'appui,# let's note that those points
are  not  perfect holding points but simple# holding points#.

This  where  one  learns the great importance to study  well
the cliff,  to learn to use at its best any cracks, breaks
or  bumps which  are  presents and especially to trust your
feet,  this  is strange  to the beginner but of first rate
importance to the  old climber.

ADHERENCE:

Practice  #en  paroi incline & particularly sur les dalles#.
The climber  put a good part of his sole, foot forward on
the  smooth rock surface and sticks to it by simple pressure.

One  MUST  not  fear to put his full weight on the  contrary
the adherence is in direct proportion to the weight of your
body  and the climber MUST STAY AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE.

This  adherence  movement will often be used in  passing
#holds# even in sheer straight up cliff. Search then any
small projection less  steep  than  the  vertical  and
trust  your  fate  to  the #adherence#.  Of course some
solid hand hold will  then  have  to compensate for the
other ones lacking.

BRIDGING:

We  are using a military term to tell of a very special
technique that  is of many uses in climbing. It is the
widening of the legs even  to  their full extent at times.
#grand ecart#  .  When  one climbs  in a #diedre# meaning
between 2 walls in form of an  open book, the alpinist has
the tendency to concentrate on only one of those 2 walls.

But he MUST concentrate on both and he will realise that
often he will  find  other holds that can be used
alternatively  from  one wall  to  the other, throwing a
live bridge between the 2  walls. Also  when one find a
cavity, a nook the climber has the tendency to hide in it
which is a normal safety reflex.

But  it  is ALWAYS difficult to get out of those nooks, you
MUST stay  outside  of them and bridge yourself to the
nearest  wall. This  procedure  once  mastered reveal
itself  to  be  sure  and efficient and in some ways it is a
kind of opposition.

#PITONNAGE (SPIKING?)#:

In  front  of a serious difficulty the alpinist stops &
considers the  situation then decides to protect himself
before tempting  a passage. Seeing a crack as high as
possible and choosing  from  a series of #pitons# that hang
to his belt.

He  takes  one of the required thickness and in a few
precise  & strong  hammering  stick the #piton# in place
through  which  he passes a #mousqueton# in which he lets
pass the rope.

All is  now ready  for his insurance # and the second de corde# 
can  now  act his  role  which is to watch and to block the rope
in  case  of #devissage# that would prevent the fall of the first man
(#premier de corde#.)

As for the #pitonnage# nothing beats experience but most
alpinist try  to  use as less as possible. Before 1920 there
was  no  such thing and yet alpinist still went along
climbing walls.

#GRATONNAGE (SCRAPING?)#:

It  is  the fact of holding on some #grattons#. At the
bottom  of cliff  you will ALWAYS see good climbers taking a
ride on nothing to  rise up a few feet, to cross over
somewhere and to climb down without jumping and then to
start anew.

It  is  a  good exercise that permits you to feel confident
when crossing a delicate passage in high altitude. The  man
used to #gratonnage# will then find some mini-holds from
which he can easily get to a better place.

Curiously  it  is  at the end of the day that the  climbers
will gather  at the foot of small cliff that seem to amount
to nothing if you see them doing it, then go and check it out.

Most  of  the time it is a way to explain or solve a big
problem where  the balance and the #gratonnage# come to play
as  well  as the  muscular shape. The day being at an end
one can use his last energy to check those problems that
will or have occurred.

And the man who has succeeded one of those difficult
passages get compliments from his partners, in mountain
climbing there  is  no place for jealousy.

#RETABLISSEMENT#:

In a gym it is the fact of lifting your own weight. This
movement is  very useful in climbing. In the absence of foot
hold one  can often #see retablir#, meaning to raise
yourself upward using only the  strength  of your wrists #
then to transpose the  weight  of your body on the palm and
then to land your feet where your hands were. It is easier
to do than to explain.

USEFUL ADVISES:

Upon  leaving a foot hold, the climber will avoid #les
enjambees demesures#  that  throws off your balance. Here
are  2  ways  to eliminate this kind of stunts.

1)   Use a #prise de passage# & make 2 steps instead of one.

2)    Rise up a few inches first which will reduce the
#enjambe#. Sometimes the simple act of tightening the ankle
and to  hold  on your toes will make you gain the precious
centimetre.

HIDE THIS KNEE:

In  climbing the use of knees to climb is not advised.  It
lacks elegance, gait and especially compromise your balance.
Also it is often  impossible to get up from such a position.
Lets not forget that  the  ordinary movements are hindered
by the cliff which  is pushing the body outwardly.

DON'T DO EVERYTHING WITH YOUR ARMS:

Once again albinism is not a match of strong arms rather it
is an exercise  of  precision and suppleness. By  so  doing
one  waste precious  energy for when the times come to
really use your  arms then  you  will be to tired to do so,
use your feet  as  much  as possible.

One  often  sees  very strong men getting drained off
completely because  they have not used their foot enough.
This  may  not  be serious in a 60 foot's cliff but it
BECOMES DANGEROUS EVEN DEADLY when  facing  a cliff that
takes many hours to do.

As  in  every place it is CAPITAL to know how to keep and
save his strength.

So  reserve  your arm's strength for the proper passage  and
use your feet to their maximum. It is in one way the best
way to  use your head.

DON'T STICK TO THE CLIFF:

Beginners do this mistake all the time, safety reflex. They
cling to the cliff wanting to scrape it with their nose yet
by so doing they fail to see the hold offered, so stay
straight and your body disengaged from the cliff.

CLIMBING DOWN:

Well, as one goes up, one MUST eventually come down and it
is not so  simple even harder than normal since you have a
hard time  to see where to put your feet. So in order to see
you will be forced to  stick  away from the cliff that is an
excellent  practice  to prove your newly acquired technique.

As  a  general rule one is tired from his ascension and thus
MUST be  careful so if you use a rope with partners, unrope
them  only at  the last moment where it is safest to do so.

This is for  the short climbs but in high mountain you MUST
use the #rappel.# This technique of climbing down using 2
ropes that permits you to call or bring back the rope.

After  having  passed it around a tree or a #becquet  de
rocher# 149b,  etc.  you throw the 2 ends down and you start
going  down using the sliding method that is braked (slowed
down) by the body friction.

You  see this technique in all movies but don't
unnecessarily use it  since  the  rope can be easily damaged
by frequent  #rappels# against the rough rocky surfaces.

If you MUST use it then  do  it without  jerking  it and
also after making really  sure  of  your mooring  point,
after all you want to climb not fall  down.  Some trees
hold  out from a very thin layer of ground so make  doubly
sure of your mooring.

The  best method as shown on the photo is to pass the double
rope under  the thigh & across the opposite shoulder then to
use  one hand as a break and the other as a guide.

#FEAR OF DEVISSAGE#:

Technical alpinist term for falling. Let not this fear stop
you. Since  each  climber should climb according  to  his
strength  & should  not  attempt bigger cliff until he has
enough  experience thus reducing the risks. Of course the
mountain is a living thing and to help you along.

YOU  MUST TEST THE SOLIDITY OF EACH HOLD BEFORE YOU MAKE A
GO FOR IT:

As for the fall itself it is of little consequence to the
#second de  corde#  because  he will only fall a few feet
before  he  is stopped by the security rope. But all the
vigilance of the second man  and a good use of the material
are necessary to minimise the importance  of a fall in the
case of the #premier de corde#.  You are his life line.

JUDGING TERRAIN:

As  you descend a mountainside it will often be difficult to
see what  is below you. Can you move around a valley or
along a  spur to  look  back at what was below? The opposite
side of  a  valley will give you some idea of what is on
your side too.

Be cautious if you find you are looking at a distant slope
beyond a foreground bluff, the ground is likely to fall
steeply between. Scree  slopes can be particularly deceptive
and appear continuous until you are very close to a cliff.

DESCENT:

Negotiating cliffs without a rope is extremely dangerous.
On the steepest cliffs it is necessary to come down facing
the cliff and very  difficult to see footholds below. If
there is an  adjoining slope, a colleague can observe and
give directions. Once down you can then point out holds to
others from below.

A  high  cliff should NEVER be attempted. In the case of a
plane crash  there  is probably more risk in climbing than
waiting  for rescue.

To  climb  down  rock faces that are less steep and  with
deeper ledges,  adopt  a  sideways position using the
inside  hand  for support.  For easier crag, descend facing
outwards with the  body bent and where possible carry weight
on the palms of the hands.

ASCENT:

Climbing upwards, holds are easier to see, but it is ALWAYS
safer to  go  around  rather than over obstacles if you are
travelling without  knowing  the  route.  You could  become
stuck  with  an impossible  descent. ALWAYS work out your
route from  the  bottom and in climbing keep the body AWAY
from the rock and look up.

	MOVE  ONLY ONE HAND OR ONE FOOT AT A TIME.

	ALWAYS KEEP 3 POINTS CONTACT.

Keep  your  weight evenly balanced on the feet rather  than
hang from the hands. Do not over-stretch. With the feet
firmly planted on  the  rock and one hand grasping a good
hold, reach  with  the other for a hold just above just
above the head.

TEST  IT,  then look for another hold for the other hand  or
the feet. Use small intermediate holds.

AVOID BECOMING SPREAD EAGLE, AND LET THE LEGS DO MOST THE WORK.

ALWAYS PLACE THE FEET AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE TO MAKE MAXIMUM
CONTACT WITH THE ROCK.

To climb vertically up fissures, use the chimney technique.
Place your back against one surface and wedge your legs
across the  gap to the other. Slowly move up. If a chimney
opens out you may have great  difficulty in transferring to
one face and have to descend again.

DESCENDING BY ROPE:

With a rope firmly anchored at the upper level, it is
possible to descend the sheerest cliff. The technique, known
as Abseiling  or rappelling, can involve a special seat
sling and a karabiner  for the  rope  to  pass  through, but
the basic method  uses  just  a doubled rope. The rope does
not move- you move down it.

It is not comfortable even with the body correctly angled,
but it is  the  safest  way to negotiate steep or very
slippery  slopes.

Friction  can damage clothing and skin. The length  of  the
rope controls  the  amount of descent & there MUST be  a  firm
anchor point,  a rock or tree that can carry the weight and not
cut  the rope.

If  a series of platforms with firm anchors can be found, a
slope can  be  negotiated in stages, but if several people are
involved there  MUST be room for all of them to wait at each
stage.  After an Abseiling the rope can be pulled down after
you. If someone is left  above  to untie the rope or you are
prepared  to  leave  it behind.  An  undoubled rope can be used
making twice the  descent possible with the same rope.

Getting  over the edge is often the most difficult part. You
may have  to  climb  down  a  few steps to gain  a  good
position  & sufficient confidence. MAKE SURE that you are in a
firm  position before hauling the rope down, its sudden weight
could affect your balance.

AND BE SURE THAT YOU HAVE PLANNED YOUR NEXT MOVE.

Once  the  rope  is  down you may have no way of  retracing
your steps. (OOPS!)

ABSEILING:

Loop  ropes  around  a firm anchor  and test it  with  full
body weight  BEFORE doing anything. Avoid sharp edges that
could  cut the  rope. Pass both ends of rope between legs from
front,  bring around to left of body and across chest, over
right shoulder  and down across the back.

Hold  rope in front with left hand and at back with right.
Plant feet  about 45cm (18in) apart firmly against the slope
and  lean back.  Let  rope around body carry your weight.  Do
not  try  to support yourself with your upper hand. Step slowly
downwards. Pay the rope out one hand at a time.

CAUTION:

Abseiling can be dangerous. If not trained in the technique
NEVER attempt  it,  unless accompanied by an expert or  in  a
survival situation.

USING A CRADLE:

On an unobstructed vertical descent, a cradle made from a
bowlineon  the  bight can be used to lower people down or haul
them  up. Use  this  technique  to  rescue anyone who  has
fallen  down  a crevasse.

ASCENDING WITH ROPES:

Belaying  is  a method of helping others to climb up.  First
one person  MUST make the ascend with a rope (this could be  a
light line  to haul up the actual rope afterwards) attached
around  the waist with a Bowline.

At  each stage of the ascent there MUST be a platform or ledge
to accommodate  all the party and a secure anchor for the
rope.  If there are a number of lengths of rope a series of
stages could be operated at the same time to handle a larger party.

TEST THAT THE ANCHOR IS FIRM:

A  tree, spike of rock or thread (a hole through a rock or
small boulder firmly wedged in a crevice). Anchor the rope with
a  loop tied  in a figure of eight or an overhand knot.

Belayer ties  on with  a  bight  or 2 bights to steady himself,
and pass  climbing rope  over  head  & down to hips, making a
twist around  the  arm closest to the anchor & takes up any
slack. Climber ties on  with a  bowline around waist and begins
to mount. Belayer takes in the rope to keep it taught.

TAKING UP ROPE:

Pull  with  both hands so that rope passes behind back  (pull
in with  right hand, push away with left). Slide right hand out
for more  rope. Bring hands together and hold both parts of
rope  in right  hand,  while the left slides in towards body
to  take  up slack.

Begin again pulling in with right hand, pulling rope around
body with  left. Be ready to arrest rope, in case climber
falls. Bring rope  tight  around  body  by bringing  hands
together.  Anchor, #belayer# & climber should be in a straight line.

If  spike is used it should be higher than the belayer's head.
If this  is  not possible standing, the belayer should work
from  a secure position. Older people and children should be
roped around the  chest.  Small  children are best carried
papoose  style  on another climber's back.

Belaying  without an anchor is risky and requires more
strength. The rope should then only pass through the belayers'
fingers, not around the back, least the belayer be pulled down
by the climber.

WARNING FALLING ROCK CAN KILL:

On  loose  rock ALWAYS TEST holds gently and NEVER pulls
outwards on loose hold.

Be  careful  that your rope does not dislodge rocks.  Even
small falling  rocks can inflict serious injury.  If you knock
a  piece down, shout a warning below. (Rock & Roll ouch!)

SNOW AND ICE-FIELDS:

Sophisticated equipment is available for climbing in snow  &
ice but  on  snow some of the mountaineer's ice-axe technique
can  be improvised with a stout stick. A handled walking stick
may  give more  grip  than a simple shaft. If not equipped with
proper  ice axe  &  crampons and skilled in their use, try to
keep  clear  of mountain  ice. (Go Home!)  A snow axe or stick,
driven  into  the snow when climbing gives much stability.

ZIGZAGGING:

On  steep slopes climb in ZIGZAG, kicking steps and digging
stick in  sideways. And as you change direction ALWAYS set off
with the uphill foot.

Dig  in  heels and use stick on slighter slopes. On gentle
slopes use  heels and stick as a walking stick. On steep slopes
descend backwards driving stick into snow for support and as a
brake  if you slip.

Sliding  down a snow slope is exhilarating but dangerous.
Digging in  the heels will help control speed and a stick
driven into the snow is an additional brake. But there is
ALWAYS a risk that  you have  not  seen  a precipice ahead!
NEVER use this  method  where there is any risk of an avalanche.

SECURITY ROPES ON ICE:

Any party moving across a glacier should be tied together, at
NO LESS than 9 m. (30ft) intervals. The leader should probe the
snow with  a  stick,  for  any  slight  depression  could
indicate  a crevasse.  Roped fixed to a firm anchor at both
ends  can  steady movement across ice patches that have to be
#traversed.#

Use  as  hands hold or tie a short rope in a bowline  around
the waist  and secure to the rope with a Prusik knot. This will
slide along the rope to allow #decent# but if you slip will
arrest your fall. This is a technique also useful on scree and
loose descents for children and the less able.

ICE AND SNOW BOLLARDS:

If  now firm rock is available for belaying and upper anchor
can be  cut  from the ice. Cut in a mushroom shape where
natural  ice formation  makes it easiest. Make diameter at
least  40cm  (18in) and  depth  at least 15cm (6in). DISCARD
and start again  at  the SLIGHTEST sign of a crack in the ice.

A  snow bollard MUST be much bigger; at least 30cm (1 feet)
deep and  from 1m (40in) wide in hard snow to 3m (10ft) in
soft.  Pack equipment and baggage around it to prevent rope
cutting through.

CREVASSES: WARNING:

They  are found where a glacier starts at a valley wall,
changes direction  or  spreads  out in widening  valley.
TRAVEL  SLOWLY, probing the ground. If one of the group falls
through the snow he is belayed by a rope and can be hauled out.

ROPING  WARNING:

Pressure  of  rope on chest can cause asphyxiation. Pass  a
rope down  with  a  loop to put a foot in to take the weight.
If  the fallen man is unconscious it will take 3 people to
heave him out. Manharness   hitches   will  enable  them   to
pull   together. Temperature in a crevasse is very low and the
victim will rapidly weaken. SPEED IS IMPORTANT.

AVALANCHES:

They are a serious hazard in all high mountain regions. They
most frequently  occur  on slopes of between 20  and  60
degrees  and especially between 30 and 45 degrees, usually
within 24 hours  of a  snow fall. After a major fall of several
hours' duration, WAIT A DAY for snow to settle before setting out.

Rain  or rise in temperature, after a snow fall greatly
increases the risk. The melting process helps to lubricate the
slide. Heavy snow falling during low temperature can also
avalanche because it does  not  have  enough time to stabilise.
Slopes with  irregular surfaces are safest and timbered slopes
are also stable.

Steep  rock at the top of a slope make it more prone to
slipping, because  falling snow rocks or icicles can set in
motion.  On  a convex  slope  the gravitational movement
downward  compacts  the snow  at the bottom and creates tension
at the top making it more likely to slip.

MAIN AREAS OF DANGER:

1)    Snow-covered convex slopes. Here the snow is under
      tension.

2) Lee slopes where snow has accumulated, they are unstable.
3) Deep snow-filled gullies.

PRECAUTIONS VIA AVALANCHES AND TRAVELLING TIPS:

1)    The  sun' heath on the snow can cause avalanches so
BEFORE NOON travel in shaded areas-keep of those exposed to the sun.

2)    AFTER  NOON, keep to slopes that have been exposed
      avoiding those that are now in sun for the first time.

3)    Avoid small gullies and valleys with steep side walls.

4)    Stick to ridges and high ground above avalanche paths.
You are more likely to trigger a slide but, if you do, you have
a better  chance of being on top of the debris or nor being
carried down at all.

5)    ALWAYS look out for avalanche activity,even if you do
not see  it happening. Assess where avalanches started, their
direction. How long they took place. They will be a guide to
where other avalanches are likely.
