



            METHODS OF LONG TERM UNDERGROUND STORAGE
             WILLIAM N, NELSON AND STANLEY A. CATLOW












Reprinted by the permission of:
MAGNUM ENTERPRISES
P. O. Box 621
Ephrata, Washington 98823 
INDEX

Chapter 1....................................4
     Above Ground ...........................4

Chapter 2....................................5
     Below Ground ...........................5
          A. Ammo Cans.......................5
          B. Plastic Bags ...................6
          C. PVC Pipe........................6

Chapter 3....................................8
          A. Cosmoline ......................8
          B. Plastic Coatings................8

Chapter 4....................................12
          A. Indicating and Non-indicating...12
          B. Vapor Phase Inhibitor . . . ....14

Chapter 5....................................16
     Location of Burial Site,
          placement underground .............16

Chapter 6....................................17
     Marking the containers .................17

Appendix ....................................19
          A. Ammo Cans ......................19
          B. Cosmoline & Plastic Coatings ...19
          C. C-Rations.......................20
          D. Desiccators ....................21
          E. Fiberglass Cloth ...............22
          F. Freon...........................22
          G. Plastic Bags & Containers.......23
          H. Plastic Beads...................23
          I. Publications ...................23
          J. PVC Pipe........................24

    
                             PREFACE

     The purpose of this book is to give the reader some basic
ideas on how to prepare various materials (coins, firearms, etc.)
for long term storage below ground. The reason for this book is, or
should be, obvious. Namely the political and social climate in this
country and the rest of the world. History has shown that during
major social or natural upheavals the people who survived were
those who prepared for the worst. During these times the most
valuable items were: Food, firearms, and a valuable medium of
exchange. (i. e., gold, silver, precious gems, etc.) The authors
considered this book just the first edition. We urge our readers to
send us any criticism, comments, suggestions or different  methods
which they have tried and found successful, so that we may pass it
on in the next edition. Some of the prices of the materials which
we quote are based on the current costs in our area. (Eastern
Washington state) They may vary according to location, inflation,
shipping, etc., their main purpose is just to give the reader a
rough idea on costs.

     We would like to thank the following people for their
assistance and advice:

Roger Cattow
Don Chumley
Ken Hankins
Harold Meyers

                               (3)
                           CHAPTER ONE

ABOVE GROUND

     The long term storage of materials above the ground and
indoors is relatively simple. The main concerns are spoilage (food)
and corrosion (metals, except gold, which does not corrode or
deteriorate). One of the handiest methods is the use of
"Seal-N-Save" (Sears) or "Seal-A-Meal " (Montgomery Ward) type
sealable plastic pouches. The basic units cost $16.00 to $19.00 and
are a very good investment. The plastic bags come in 3 basic sizes,
8" by 6", 8" by 9" and 8" by 12". They are intended for food
freezing and cooking, but they have many other uses. Dried food can
be stored indefinitely when protected from air. By using a moisture
absorbent pack of silica gel they work well for storage of silver,
ammunition, small handguns, etc., for long periods of time. Be sure
to remove as much air as possible before sealing. There are a
number of small sealable plastic buckets and square containers made
for industrial use which also work very well for indoor storage of
materials. The best of these have gaskets for a complete and long
lasting seal.

             There are a number of excellent books on long term
storage of food above ground. One of the best of these is "Family
Storage Plan" by Bob R. Zabriskie. This and other books are
available from "Survival, Inc." (See appendix D) This book goes
into fine detail on the storage of food and water and we highly
recommend that you obtain it.


                               (4)
     All of the methods described in the following chapters can be
used above ground.

                           CHAPTER TWO

     An excellent method for storing ammunition, handguns, coins,
etc. is the use of G.I. ammo cans. To begin with, put the items in
the can along with silica gel or V. P . I . and/or cosmoline as you
prefer. Next, liberally coat the rubber seal around the edges of
the can with Vaseline to keep the rubber from drying out. Close the
can. Next, take a sheet of fiberglass cloth and wrap the can like
you were wrapping a birthday present. Use a heavy thread and needle
to sew the ends shut. Next, mix a small quantity of hardener (as
per instructions on the can with some resin. Then coat one side of
the can to seal it, and allow it to dry (cure) We recommend you do
it one side at a time for two reasons. First, it is easier to
handle. Second, the resin generates a pretty fair amount of heat
when curing and we would hate to be around if a can of sealed ammo
happened to reach a critical temperature. Make Sure that the can is
completely sealed, and it will last a long, long time. You may also
seal them in plastic bags. (see next section 3)

     (NOTE: The fiberglass system may also be used on wooden boxes
with equal results.)

                               (5)
     B.PLASTIC BAGS

     The use of plastic bags is very simple and very effective.
First,(assuming it is a firearm) take the stock or grips and
anything using plastic as a component and put it in a separate
plastic bag and seal it with plastic tape. (Or if the items are
small enough, use a "Seal-A-Meal") Expel as much air as possible
before sealing. If it is a small item (such as a handgun or coins)
you can also use the "Seal-A-Meal" method. Next, place all of the
metal parts in a plastic bag with a liberal (hate that word) amount
of silica gel* (* best in a ventilated contained, rather than
making direct contact with the metal.) Or, if you prefer, coat the
metal with cosmoline using one of the methods described in Chapter
3, then place in the bag and seal the bag with plastic tape. Be
sure to place styrofoam or something similar over the sights and
all sharp points so they won't cut through the bag. Next, place
both plastic bags in a third bag and seal with tape. Now, add as
many other bags as you feel necessary to insure that it is
completely protected. (Use at least three bags.)

             The use of PVC pipe is more complicated and costly,
but in the end, well worth the time and trouble. It is impervious
to just about anything and will last long beyond your lifetime. The
biggest factor is cost . The cost of the pipe itself is not too
bad, but the cost of the end caps normally used with PVC pipe is
OUT OF SIGHT! (See appendix J.)

                               (6)
     To save the "out of sight" cost of the PVC end caps, the best
alternative is to use PVC or plexiglas sheets cut to size and glued
to the ends of the pipes. However, you must be sure that the ends
of the pipe are square. The best thing to use to insure this is a
radial arm saw. Lacking this, the next best thing would be to make
a miter box out of scrap lumber and cut it with a hand saw.

     To begin with, PVC pipe comes in many sizes and strengths. For
our purposes, probably, the best sizes would be 5" or 6" in either
63 pound or 100 pound strength. You can get it as small as 1 " or
as large as 12". The small sizes would be useful mainly for coins,
parts, etc., and the large sizes would hold a number of rifles,
etc.
     To prepare the pipe for use, first seal one end. Seal must be
air tight. Next, drop in enough plastic (styrofoam) beads to cover
the sealed end. Put a length of copper tubing down to the bottom of
the pipe. Insert the item to be stored centering it in the pipe.
Fill up all of the remaining air space with more plastic beads.
Turn on the Freon can attached to the copper tubing. Slowly, (Be
sure the can is upright so that Freon gas comes out rather than
liquid.) Hold a match at the opening of the pipe. When the match
goes out, the pipe is full of Freon. (Lack of oxygen makes it go
out.) Then, remove the tubing (carefully) and immediately cap and
seal the open end of the pipe. It would be a good idea to insert a
packet of silica gel inside the pipe before sealing to take care of
any residual moisture that might be present.

                               (7)
                          CHAPTER THREE

COSMOLINE

     Cosmoline is very resistant to moisture, chemical, salt water
and small amounts of abrasion. It is non-drying and will prevent
rust for long periods of time. It's main use for our purposes would
be long term storage of firearms. However, one thing to note
carefully. DO NOT apply it to stocks, grips, scopes or anything
made out of plastic. Also, when removing cosmoline from a firearm
(use a petroleum solvent) be sure to thoroughly clean ALL surfaces,
especially the bore.

     There are two main methods of applying cosmoline. The first
method is by dipping. The firearms should be clean and dry at the
time of application. The cosmoline should be melted to a
temperature of from 180¿F to 200¿F and the firearm should be
allowed to remain in the solution until the temperature of the
metal is about the same as the cosmoline. The cosmoline will be
thinner and bond to the metal better. This method takes larger
amounts of cosmoline and special equipment, although in the end it
uses less cosmoline.

     The second and easiest method is by brushing or swabbing.
Again, the firearms must be clean and dry. First heat the cosmoline
until it is about 140¿F to 160¿F. (Until it is a liquid, but not
watery) Then, brush or swab it on, maintaining as even a coating as
possible. If you have use for only a small amount of cosmoline,
Vaseline is the same thing only more purified. It costs more, but
is
                               (8)
readily available. If you want a slightly stiffer material, melt
Vaseline and paraffin and mix thoroughly. This mixture can then be
brushed or swabbed onto the item being stored.

Basic Data: -   Melting point 160¿F
                Flash point 400¿F

B. PLASTIC COATINGS

     We have done some investigation of plastic coatings for long
term protection. There are three criteria for a plastic coating to
be useful as a corrosion preventative on parts and equipment. We
should point out at this time that a coating of this type is not
for use on complete firearms but only on parts or tools being
stored for long periods of time. The first criteria is a coating
must meet is to be moistureproof. Plastics even in rather thin
layers meet this requirement easily. The second one for our
purposes is that it be easy to apply and third, that it can be
easily and completely removed. We have found reference to three
types of commercial plastics that will meet these requirements.
Cope Plastics, 1111 W. Selmar, Godfrey, Ill. 62035, makes compounds
called Plastisols, which are a mixture of finely ground polyvinyl
chloride resin and plasticizer. They are available in a wide range
of colors and degrees of flexibility. All that is required for
their use is an oven. (A kitchen oven will work) The item to be
coated is heated to 300¿F. *Dipped in Plastisol for three to five
minutes, then removed slowly. The plastic must the be fused by
heating again at 350F*

                               (9)
for five to fifteen minutes, then emersed in cool water. It can be
removed by cutting through the coating and peeling it off.

* NOTE: for this reason we DO NOT recommend it's use on springs as
they may lose their temper and become brittle.

     A second type of commercial plastic coating is made by Dipseal
Plastics, 2311 23rd Ave., Rockford, Ill. 61101. Their product comes
in large sheets which are heated to a molten state. The item to be
coated is dipped in and then removed and allowed to cool. This is
the type of coating usually found on saw blades and drill bits to
protect the cutting edge. This coating is easier to apply than the
Plastisol type because the item to be coated does not have to be
heated. It is also as easy to remove as Plastisol. One problem we
had was in finding sources of small quantities of this material.
Dipseal Plastics will not sell in small quantities and a supplier
in our area will only sell it in 25 pound lots at $1.25 per pound
.

     The third commercial plastic is called Plas-ti-Dip, made by
Plasti-Dip International, 1458 West Country Road C, St. Paul, Minn.
55113. This product was designed for coating tool handles and is
very easy to use. PlastiDip does not require heat for curing, it
needs only be air dried. The part or tool should be cleaned, then
immersed slowly (1 inch every five seconds) into the plastic and
then withdrawn slowly and allowed to air dry. If a second coat is
required, the first coat should be allowed to dry for at least 25
minutes

                              (10)
before the second coat is applied. It can be used on wood, however
it would not be a good idea to use it on anything with a finish or
checkering as it may discolor the wood and be hard to remove from
the checkering.

     A homemade plastic coating is probably the easiest to use.
Acrylic plastic such as Plexiglas or styrene plastic from plastic
models can be dissolved in acetone to mal<e a useable dipping
plastic. A small scrap of Plexiglas can usually be had from a local
glass company and many drug stores carry acetone. It only takes
about a one inch square piece of quarter inch Plexiglas to a half
pint on acetone to make plastic coating material. It takes several
days for the Plexiglas to dissolve completely and it must be kept
in a closed glass or metal container. The resulting liquid should
be about the consistency of syrup. If it is too thick add more
acetone, if it is too thin add more Plexiglas or allow some of the
acetone to evaporate. The styrene plastic can be from the parts
tree of a model kit and is made up same way. To use this type of
plastic, the item is dipped into the mixture and then the acetone
is allowed to evaporate, leaving the plastic coating. These types
of coating are more brittle than the commercial ones and will
require more care in handling, but it still meets the criteria
stated above.

     The use of a plastic coating to protect small parts and tools
has some advantages. The rust proof coating that plastics provide
could well be used not only for long term storage, but also for
storage between uses in your

                              (11)shop or gun room . Unlike oils, which may have to be removed before
use, the plastic does not require repeated wiping or solvents, it
just peels off and in some cases can be reused .

DESICCANTS

     There are two good methods to preserve metals in long term
storage. The usual method is to coat the metal in a petroleum jelly
or cosmoline. This method has proven itself for many years but
requires much labor and solvents to remove. A second method, which
will work equally well and requires no labor to apply or remove is
the use of a desiccant in a sealed storage container.

     A desiccant is a substance which absorbs water from the air.
There are many chemical compounds which will act as a desiccant.
However, many such as barium perchlorate or phosphorus pentoxide
can form corrosive material as they absorb moisture. Two very good
desiccants which are readily available and excellent for long term
use are silica gel and Drierite. Drierite is a product of the W. A.
Hammond Drierite Company and is anhydrous calcium sulfate. Silica
gel is manufactured by many companies and is a precipitated silica
acid, but is quite inert to any chemical reaction.

     Both of these desiccants are available in two forms, a regular
or an indicating form. The indicating forms have a small amount of
material which changes from blue, when dry and ready for use to
pink when their

                              (12)drying capacity is exhausted. Although the indicating forms are
more expensive, the knowledge that they are ready for use is well
worth the extra cost.

     Silica gel and Drierite are available from most scientific
supply companies, generally in one or five pound lots. A list of
some of these are in the appendix (D). The cost is continually
changing but at the time of this writing, plain Drierite was listed
at $3.70 per pound. or $13.70 per five pounds. The indicating type
costs about double that of the plain. The indicating silica gel
listed at $8.66 per pound or $30.25 for five lbs. Only the
indicating silica gel is listed here because for static drying the
manufacturers recommend only an indicating type.

     Both of the desiccants are also available in prefabricated
containers. Generally they are a round tin about 2 3/4 inches in
diameter and 1/2 inch thick. However, we have found a rectangular
silica gel containers 17/32 inches by 2 1/16 inches by 4 inches.
These are loaded with indicating silica gel or indicating Drierite.
The silica gel sells for about $3.50 each and the Drierite ones for
about $2.00 at this time. Again, the cost is continually changing
. These ready-made air dryers contain about an ounce of desiccant
and are good for five cubic feet of space. Silica gel packets can
be found in Shotgun News (See appendix J) at a reasonable price.
These have silica gel in porous paper. The small packets are good
for approximately 2500 cubic inches and cost $2.00 for 10. A large
packet contains 12 ounces for $4.75 plus postage and it is good

                              (13)for rather large spaces. Some camera stores handle small packets of
silica gel used for protecting cameras and film.

     Desiccants in the bulk form can easily be made into forms
similar to the premade air dryers. A simple but effective packet
can be made from porous cloth such as burlap or "Handi-Wipes. "
Form an envelope by sewing or stapling, add an ounce of desiccant
and close off the end. An air dryer can also be made by using a
small metal can such as a band-aid can and punching or drilling a
lot of small holes in it. The holes must be large enough to allow
maximum air flow, but smaller than the grain size of the desiccant.
Then fill the can with desiccant and close. The can could be
permanently closed by soldering, or you could use plastic tape. One
pound of silica gel or Drierite will make ten to twenty air driers.
At this point, it should be mentioned that although Drierite is a
good Desiccant and generally costs less than silica gel, with rough
handling such as when transporting the sealed container, some of it
could powder and coat the contents of the container it is to dry.
With careful packing and handling, this will be avoided .

V.P.I.--VAPOR PHASE INHIBITOR

     Another method which is not a desiccant but has a similar
effect can be used to protect metal in a sealed container. This is
a white crystalline powder which fills the container with vapor
(displacing the air) rather than removing it. One of the trade
names is "VaPro-Tex". (See appendix D) The protection

                              (14)lasts as long as the articles remain in the vapor. Also because it
is not a desiccant it will not dry out wooden parts. It can also be
used with oil type preservatives. There is a possibility that this
method may cause some softening of some wood finishes or may cause
minor discoloration of some plastics and wood. However, this is
uncommon and is more likely to occur when the crystals are in
direct contact with the items. Va-Pro-Tex is easy to use and works
best in air tight containers. The easiest method is to sprinkle it
in loose form into container. It can also be placed in a small pan
within the container or even wrapped in a single thickness of
loosely woven cloth or facial tissue, then placed in the container.
The quantity to be used depends on the container size. A half
teaspoon per cubic foot should provide complete protection. This
method can be used for long periods of storage because once the
container is sealed the vapors remain to give protection until it
is opened. When the items are removed a quick cleaning to remove
any Va-Pro-Tex in direct contact with the metal, especially the
bore of a firearm, and it is ready to use. (NOTE: Avoid breathing
the dust or vapors from V.P.I.) A Vapor Phase Inhibitor is also
available in paper form. (See appendix D) The suppliers of this
type of inhibitor give the life expectancy of the protection it
provides at approximately seven years in a sealed plastic container
or aluminum foil. Because of the limited life expectancy we do not
recommend it for below ground storage. However, it could be put to
good use in your shop or gun room to protect parts, tools and
equipment in limited storage. A good use would be to wrap a mold
block in the paper,

                              (15)then seal with aluminum foil or in a plastic bag. After the mold is
used it can be re-wrapped for further protection. A small piece can
also be placed in the box used to store reloading dies and provide
protection between uses. This type of paper is not recommended for
magnesium, cadmium, zinc, copper or thiokol rubber.

     The long term storage of firearms and accessories would be
useless if when removed from their container you find nothing but
rust. The proper use of a desiccator, cosmoline or V. P. I. will
prevent this and rended the stored item useful even after many
years.

                          CHAPTER FIVE

LOCATION OF BURIAL SITE, PLACEMENT OF CONTAINER

     If you are storing food for a long term for emergency use
during some type of calamity, your house would serve as a good
location. However, if you are storing firearms or the like until
the "Crunch" comes, your house or yard is probably the worst
possible location. (Unless you own a large number of acres.) With
today's technology (i.e., metal detectors) any place you bury or
store them is going to be easy to locate. A house or yard can be
scanned in pretty short order. Snoopy neighbors  are also a hazard.
The best location would be somewhere relatively remote. There are
several things to keep in mind about picking a location. Be sure as
you can that it is not going to be the location of a development of
some kind or in the way of a highway construction project. Also be
sure that you have some type of permanent, natural reference

                              (16)points which can be used to locate the site at some point in the
future when your memory of it's location can be somewhat hazy. Bury
it DEEP. Four feet or more is best. (be sure the area is not prone
to floods or erosion) To confuse possible searchers (other than
yourself) it is best to scatter tin cans and the like a foot or two
from the surface to make it appear as though the area was used as
a dump of some sort.

     Another good method is to bury the item directly under a fence
post (or fence posts). However, DO NOT depend on the fence post as
a permanent landmark. Use some other features in the area as
reference points. Try to leave the area looking the same as it was
before you buried the items. If there is thick sod covering the
area, cut out a section and replace it in as natural a state as
possible. It is best to bury long, narrow objects (i. e., PVC pipe)
end up. The advantage to burying an object end-up is that it
reduces the "target" profile and makes it more difficult for
someone using a metal detector. By the same token it makes it more
difficult for you to recover the object, which makes it vital that
you triangulate the location.

                           CHAPTER SIX

MARKING THE CONTAINERS

     If you are burying more than one item in an area, it is best
to put some outside identification on the container so you will
know for sure what is inside. The best method is to obtain some
clear plastic sheets used for

                              (17)covering cards, etc., for protection while carrying in your
billfold. These can be obtained at most stationery stores. They
have an adhesive on one side and usually come in letter size
sheets. Type or write the description of the item in the container
on a small card and seal between two pieces of plastic and trim off
the excess, being sure to leave enough around the edges to insure
a perfect

     A second method of sealing a I. D. card in plastic is to use
a small, trimmed down "Seal-A-Meal" type bag with the card inside.
Whichever method you choose, tape the card to the container with
two separate pieces of plastic tape passed completely around the
container so that it will not come loose while you are burying it. 

                              (18)APPENDIX

A. AMMO CANS

     1. Big Tex Army-Navy Store 
          215 W . Jefferson 
          Dallas, Texas 75208

     2. B.W. Trading Co. 
          Box 692-1016 
          Newark, Ohio 43055

     3. Sherwood Dist., Inc. 
          18714 Parthenia St. 
          Northridge, CA 91324

     4. Southwestern Arms Co., Inc. 
          Route 28, Box 84A 
          Milford, New York 13807

     5. Probably the easiest source for ammo cans would be surplus
        stores, second-hand stores, flea markets and gun shows.

B. COSMOLINE & PLASTIC COATINGS

     1. Brookstone Company (Plasti-Dip)
          Brookstone Bldg.
          Peterborough, New Hampshire, 03458

     2. B.W. Trading Co. (Cosmoline)
          Box 692--1016
          Newark, Ohio 43055

                              (19)Appendix Continued

     3. Southwestern Arms Co., Inc. (Cosmoline)
          Route 28, Box 84A
          Milford, New York 13807

     4. Gene Lightsey (Cosmoline)
          559 Park Terrace
          Birmingham, Alabama 35226

     1. Army and Navy Sales Co.
          200 Ashford Street
          Brooklyn, New York 11207

     2. Morris Lawing
          1020 Central Ave.
          Charlotte, No. Carolina 28204

     3.  Pat's Gun Shop
          1407 Woodlawn
          Columbia, So. Carolina 29209

     4. Rocket Surplus Sales
          2229 Vandalia Street
          Route 159 North
          Collinsville, Ill 62234

     5. Sherwood Distributors
          18714 Parthenia Street
          Northridge, CA 91324

                              (20)Appendix Continued

D . DESICCATORS

     1. Fisher Scientific Offices in: (US) Atlanta, Boston,
     Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Detroit, Houston,
     Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Raleigh, Rochester, San Francisco,
     St. Louis, Springfield, and Washington, D.C. (Canada:)
     Edmonton, Halifax, Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver.

     2. Hydrosorbent Co.
          P.O. Box 675
          Rye, New York 10580

     3. Key Products (Va-Pro-Tex)
          P. O. Box 601
          LaCanada, California 91011

     4. Sargent-Welch
          7300 No. Linder Ave.
          Skokie, Illinois 60076

     5. Survival, Inc.
          P. O. Box 2246
          Culver City, California 90230

     6. Arthur H. Thomas Co.
          P. O. Box 779
          Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,19105

     7. VWR Scientific
          P. O. Box 3200
          Rincon Annex
          San Francisco, California 94119

                              (21)Appendix Continued

     8. Any chemical supply company in your area.

     E . FIBERGLASS CLOTH 
          These materials are available at most marine supply
          stores.

     1. Cloth: 12" wide is 28ý per foot
               50" wide is 50ý per foot

     2. Resin: $2.20 per pint
               $4.20 per quart
               $16.00 per gallon

     3. Hardener: .15ý per pint
                 .30ý per quart
               $1.00 per gallon

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO VARIATION

F. FREON

     1.  Wescor, Inc.
          459 So. Main Street (12 Logan Utah 84321 
          (12 oz. spray can with tubing, Cat. #OM-200, approx.
          $5.00 per can Trade Name: "Blow-Clean")

     2. At most auto supply stores.
          Auto air conditioner recharge kit with check valve and
          short hose with coupling: $6.00 to $8.00, replacement
          cans: $1.50 to $2.00.

                              (22)
          Appendix Continued

G. PLASTIC BAGS & CONTAINERS

     These are easily obtainable at all grocery stores. Werecommend the heavy duty "Yard" type bags such as "Glad" or
similar. The plastic containers (rigid plastic, sealable lid type)
are usually available at large hardware type stores.

H. PLASTIC (Styrofoam) BEADS

     1. Sears
          Bean Bag Refills
          Expanded Polystyrene Beads
          2 1/2 pounds at $4.99

     2. Wards 
          Bean Bag Refills 
          Polystyrene "Beads"
          1/2 pounds at $4.99

     3. At almost any large furniture store

     PUBLICATIONS We highly recommend the following publications as
good sources for various surplus materials and in the case of Gun
Week, darn good reading.

     1. Gun Week
        $6.00 per year 
        P. O. Box 150 (52 issues) 
        Sidney, Ohio 45365

                              (23)
         Appendix Continued

     2. Shotgun News
          P.O. Box 669
          $7.50 per year (24 issues) 
          Hastings, Nebraska 68901

J. PVC PIPE

     This is available at most any irrigation supply company or at
     some large plumbing supply houses.

     The 63 pound pipe is 26ý to 89ý per foot from 4" to 8"
diameters. The 100 pound pipe is 38ý to $1.36 per foot from 4" to
8" diameters. The cost of the end caps is OUT OF SIGHT!



                              (24)
