





   How to  "MAKE PLANTS MULTIPLY"   at practically no cost!

                ...or How to Save the Earth on a Shoestring


   ...by Stephanie Mark




   Plant with "cuttings!"
   ----------------------

   WHY? According to an article published in the "Ont Shade Tree Council
        Newsletter" we need half a mile of trees to clean the air
        between homes and the roadways. Otherwise, our HEALTH is
        AT RISK! Trees can block and absorb the pollutants from
        auto exhaust. But we need a "green belt" of at least half
        a mile wide to soak up all the pollutants from vehicular
        exhaust.





   TIPS ON PLANT PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS using a "direct-to-ground" method
   -------------------------------------

   NOTE: The tips below are for planting cuttings DIRECTLY into the target
         area (not growing cuttings in covered bags until roots appear.)
         Consequently, this method is for MASS-PLANTING PROGRAMS where
         large losses can be tolerated because of the overall quantity
         of cuttings planted will offset the losses from dehydration.



   SUCCESS RATE: Could be as low as 1% or as high as 95% depending on
                 factors below. On average, you should get 30-50%
                 to survive using the information below:

          - Soil type, suitability, and drainage.
                (i.e. Willows like water-logged areas, but Staghorn Sumacs
                      will "drown" in that same spot.)

          - Weather (cuttings are vulnerable to dehydration until the
                     roots form -- read "Catch-22" below)

          - Ground temparature (cuttings need approx 21 degrees Celcius to
                                form roots quickly -- read "rocks" below)

          - Shade (a slightly shaded location prevents dehydration)

          - Time of the Year (generally Spring and Fall are best, but
                              most can be planted anytime)

          - Type of plant and cutting (cuttings from younger plants do
                                       better)



   BEST AREAS FOR CUTTINGS: Normal soil, not too hard, preferably with some
      peat moss evident.  Clay-type soils are the toughest -- use
      Staghorn Sumacs for clays.



   DONT PLANT WHERE IT'S GOING TO BE MOWED!
   ----------------------------------------
      This may sound like plain common-sense, but it's not always easy
      to tell where the maintenance people mow, specially in very early
      spring.


   FIND SOME ROCKS OR GRAVEL
   -------------------------
      This is the secret to high success rates! A rock is nature's heat
      sink. A large rock will also provide some shade and reduce
      dehydration.

      Roots grow quickly if they are kept warm. Rocks and gravel absorb heat
      from the sun and pass it on the nearby plants. Therefore, your cuttings
      will thrive if planted near rocks and/or gravel. Sumacs have a success
      rate of nearly 100% if cuttings are planted into good soil covered with
      a layer of gravel stones.  (By "sumacs" I meant Staghorn Sumacs.)


   "CATCH-22" OF PLANT PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS
   -------------------------------------------
           Here's why some cuttings don't survive: Not enough heat at the
           root zone and lack of moisture. The roots need to be at
           approx. 21 degrees Celcius. However, this usually means
           that water evaporates quickly. If possible, try to water
           the cuttings during dry weather (when the cuttings are
           within range of your garden hose) until some roots form.



   FINDING COST-FREE CUTTINGS
   --------------------------
        *  Look for some vacant land with signs saying, "An Apartment
           Complex Will Be Build Here by ____."

        *  Ask your friends to let you know when they are pruning
           branches.

        *  Ask landscapers and commercial yard maintainers. In the spring,
           look for crews pruning shrubs around industrial and
           commercial plaza's.

        *  Other vacant fields (ask for permission to avoid being charged
           with tresspassing.)



   WHAT SPECIES? These are easy to grow even in tough places:
   ----------------------------------------------------------
        Recommended trees and shurbs include --

           Russian Olive, Staghorn Sumac, Forsythia
           Common Lilac (not the "fancy" or hybrid "French" lilacs.)
           Willows (like water-logged areas specially)
           Roses
           Cedars and Junipers



   MANY OTHER TREES AND SHRUBS will also grow from cuttings, EXCEPT:
   -----------------------------------------------------------------
        Firs, Balsam, and Pines.




   HOW TO MAKE THE CUTTING:
   ------------------------
               Generally, you cut about 5-8 inches from a
                            branch. You should have at least one leaf
                            but no more than three leaves per cutting.
                            (Note: Forsythias/lilacs can grow from leaf-less
                            cuttings, provided the buds have appeared.)
                            Remove all leaves from the lower portion,
                            as that is where the roots will sprout from.

               Do not use cuttings from "flowering branches" as the
                            plant is using most of its energy for
                            the flowers. Select a "leafy" branch instead.
                            Or, wait until the flowers are gone from
                            those branches.



   WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR?
   ----------------------
      Anytime except very early spring (too cold to form roots) or
      during summer's peak, when the soil may be too hard and too dry
      for new roots to break into.



   HOW TO INSERT THE CUTTTINGS INTO THE GROUND
   -------------------------------------------
       To avoid injuring the cutting, use a tool (I use the business end
       of an open pruner) to gouge a hole into the gound. This is important
       specially when the soil is hard.

       You can insert up 1/2 - 3/4 of the cutting into the ground.

   TOOLS: I use a pruner only. The pruner can be used to DIG. Just use the
          cutting end to "slice" a slit into the ground. Insert the cutting
          into the slit that has been gouged.


   BEST TIME TO PLANT CUTTINGS
   ---------------------------
       The soil should be soft and moist. So you should wait for a good
       thundershower. The cuttings will also do better it it rains for the
       next few days.

       Advise: Look up the long-term weather report and check the week's
               weather. Don't plant if the weather will be hot and dry
               for the week.  (However, you can use "moisture rentention
               crystals" also. These are planted with the cutting.
               These crystals absorb huge amounts of water and release
               them slowly. The crystals are sold at most garden centers.
               I don't know if they are safe to use or environmentally
               friendly, so I avoid them.



   HOW TO PREPARE CUTTINGS:
   ------------------------
       Dip the ends into a pail of water overnight, if possible.
       This is not necessary if you will plant them immediately.
       However, do NOT drown the entire cutting in water.


   GOOD BOOK TO READ:
   ------------------
       "Tough Plants For Tough Places" by Rodale Press.



   ROOTING POWDERS AND HORMONES:
   -----------------------------
       I avoid them because they are hazardous and toxic. Also, using
       too little is just as bad as too much. Every plant requires differing
       amounts of rooting powder, and this becomes too complicated in
       field planting.



   For Your Information
   ====================

   OTHER WAYS TO GROW CUTTINGS: You can grow cuttings INDOORS by placing
       them in pots covered by plastic bags (to retain moisture.)
       Grown indoors, you will have an extremely high success rate.

       Another ideal way is to put cuttings under porch decks, just
       within range of some sunlight. The deck will provide shade
       and a gravel layer will retain the heat needed for rapid
       root developement. (We have a success rate of 95% growing cuttings
       under out deck.)

   IF YOU HAVE THE TIME, plant cuttings only after they have grown roots.
       This way, your tree will have a much higher chance of survival.
       However, this method is much slower and transplanting also
       delivers a "shock" to the young seedlings.

       I don't do it this way, relying on "sheer numbers" and speed
       to plant hundreds of no-root cuttings in an afternoon.



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