THE CHURCH OF S. PAOLO.

The first church built, in the time of Constantine, to commemorate the martyrdom of S. Paul. It was destroyed by fire on July 15, 1823; its restoration was immediately commenced, and it was reopened in 1854 by Pio Nono. The festa days are January 25th, June 30th, and December 28th. The principal entrance towards the Tiber is still unfinished. Before the Reformation it was under the protection of the kings of England. It is the finest of Roman churches, and the visitor cannot fail to be charmed with its beauty; it is one vast hall of marble, with eighty Corinthian pillars forming the nave, reflected in the marble pavement. The grand triumphal arch which separates the nave from the transept is a relic of the old basilica; and the mosaic, Christ blessing in the Greek manner, with the twenty-four elders, is of the fifth century, given by Placidia, sister of Honorius, in 440. The mosaic of the tribune was erected by Pope Honorius III., 1216–27; it has been restored since the fire. On either side are statues of S. Peter and S. Paul; around the church, above the columns, are portraits of the popes, from S. Peter, in mosaics. The altar canopy is supported by four pillars of Oriental alabaster, given by Mehemet Ali, Pasha of Egypt. A marble staircase leads to the subterranean chapel, where are preserved the relics of the martyrs Paul and Timothy. The altars at each end of the transept are of malachite, given by the Czar of Russia. The painted windows are worthy of attention, as also a beautiful alabaster candelabrum saved from the fire. The walls and numerous chapels are adorned with paintings and statues of the present day, giving a good idea of the actual state of art in Rome. By applying for the key in the sacristy, visitors can see the beautiful court of the thirteenth century, which will fully repay inspection.

Prudentius, who saw the original basilica in its glory, thus describes it:—

This description will apply equally well to the present basilica. The church is 396 feet long from the steps of the tribune; width of aisle and nave, 222 feet.

The façade of the basilica, the upper part of which has lately been uncovered, is toward the Tiber; it consists of a beautiful mosaic which has taken thirteen years to complete, and is the finest production of the Vatican manufactory. The whole is surmounted by a cross, under which are the words Spes Unica; below it is our Lord enthroned, with SS. Peter and Paul on either side below the steps of his throne. A scene symbolic of the New Testament is below. A rock occupies the centre, from which flow the four rivers of the Apocalypse; on the summit is the Lamb supporting the cross. The cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem are on each side, whilst flocks of sheep between the palm-trees are symbolic of the apostolic college. Below, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel typify the Old Testament. The whole, a triangle, is bordered with a mosaic of fruit and foliage.

At the back of the church is

THE REMURIA HILL.

It is altogether a mistake to suppose that Remus took his stand upon the Aventine and Romulus upon the Palatine; if so, they would both have commanded nearly the same horizon, and messengers need not have been sent from one to the other to tell the number of birds seen. Romulus stood on the Aventine, and Remus on the hill before us, the Remuria.

"Remus pitched upon the ground now called from him Remuria. This place is very proper for a city, being a hill not far from the Tiber, distant from Rome about thirty stadia" (Dionysius, i. 85).

"Romulus buried Remus at Remuria, since, when alive, he had been fond of building there" (Ibid., i. 87).

This hill is called to the present day La Remuria.

The road straight on past S. Paolo leads to the

TRE FONTANE,

or Three Springs, which are said to have sprung forth when S. Paul was executed on this spot, his head rebounding three times after it was cut off. Three churches have been built here, but they are not of much interest.

The rambler can return to the city from S. Paul's by tramway, fare six sous, to the Piazza Montanara.

To the left the Strada delle Sette Chisse leads to the Via Appia, near the Church of S. Sebastiano.

THE VIA OSTIENSIS.

(Mr. Forbes's carriage excursion at frequent intervals.)

Instead of turning to the left to the Three Fountains, keep straight on. This is the pleasantest and prettiest road out of Rome, but the views are not so commanding as on some others. On the hill to the left was the Vicus Alexandrinus, where the Lateran obelisk was landed; at Tor di Valle we cross the stream that comes from the Vallis Ferentina,—the bridge is of the time of the kings; then the Rivus Albanus, the outlet of Lake Albano; we next cross the Decima stream; beyond, the Via Laurentina, at the Osteria of Malafede, turns off to the left. We descend to the valley of the Malafede, which is still crossed by the

VIADUCT OF ANCUS MARTIUS,

called Ponte della Refolta. It is worth while to get out of the carriage here and turn into the field at the gate on the left, over the bridge, to see this piece of ancient work, formed of great blocks of tufa stone of the time of the kings, having some repairs in opus reticulatum of the republic. The paved arch over the stream is in good preservation, and is older than the Cloaca Maxima, but not so well known. It is evidently the work of Ancus Martius, who made the port of Ostia, and consequently the road to get there. At the top of the hill above we get the first view of the sea and the last of S. Peter's. We now pass through the woods and along an ancient causeway through the salt marshes to the modern village of

OSTIA,

fourteen miles from Rome. The ancient remains are beyond. Founded by Ancus Martius, it was the great port and arsenal of ancient Rome, with which it rose and fell. Ascending the tower of the castle in the village, an extensive view of the Latin coast and the surrounding ancient forests may be had. Several rooms in the castle have been turned into a museum of fragments found in the excavations. The castle was built by Julius II., 1503–13; and besides this there is nothing of interest in the miserable village. The Street of Tombs leads to the ancient city. The principal objects of interest are the Porta Romana and Guardhouse, houses in the city, tombs and columbaria, Temple of Cybele, the Temple of Vulcan, street with portico and warehouses, the Horrea with the Dolia, the Imperial Palace, baths containing many beautiful specimens of mosaic pavement, Temple of Mithras, in which the altar is still standing, the Arsenal, &c.

SKETCH PLAN OF THE EXCAVATIONS AT OSTIA.
View larger image.

The recent excavations were commenced at Ostia at the close of 1870 upon a system more in accordance with the requirements of archæological science and the tendencies of topographical discoveries than had up to that time been practised. All idea of speculating—as had been until then the chief aim of the popes—in the statues and precious objects that might be found, was renounced, and instead it was proposed to uncover, by steady and continued effort, the ruins of the buried edifices; especial attention was bestowed upon those along the banks of the Tiber, as they had played an important part in the career of the city. The earth was first removed round the large edifice known as the "Imperial Palace," bordering on the Tiber; its principal entry, upon the bank of the river, although decorated with a more elegant front, constituted only a common doorway. Three spots, which bore the aspect of stairs leading down to the river, have been excavated: firstly, upon the line from the Temple of Vulcan to the river; secondly, at a basin to the right side of this line; thirdly, at the other extremity of the basin, adjoining the Imperial Palace. At the first point was found the street which terminated at the banks of the river with a flight of steps. Upon removing the soil, a street was discovered paved with immense flagstones, fifteen yards wide, including the porticoes that flanked it on both sides. The porticoes are six yards wide, and are built with pillars of arched brick, decorated at the lower extremity with bas-reliefs, and at the upper with cornices of terra-cotta, lace design. In their interior are large compartments for warehouses, with a depth of six yards below the level of the pavement. This street leading from the river to the Temple of Vulcan is one hundred and fifty yards long. The lateral walls subsist up to the height of seven yards, and the rooms of the porticoes still preserve their ceilings, the pavement of the first floor being mosaic. Another street, parallel to the above, was struck at the second point, also running from the river, and paved with large flagstones; it has a width of five yards, and on each side large warehouses. On the left side are a series of pillars adorned with cornices, having a height of seven yards, and a lateral width of two yards. As the street advances into the city, along the entire course are shops and warehouses, conveying the grandest idea of the life, activity, and commercial traffic that must have prevailed in the city. At the third spot were found the traces of a large stairway, leading to a terrace reared above the level of the river. To this stairway two streets lead, the first six yards wide, and proceeding from the interior of the city; the second, ten yards, running parallel to the Tiber, each side being occupied with warehouses. These are the three main streets lately thoroughly uncovered and examined, and which, while affording an accurate plan to modern eyes of the time-honoured city, unite, with its other ruins, tombs, and mosaic pavements, to make Ostia one of the wonders of the day.

CASTEL FUSANO

is a seat of Prince Chigi, two miles to the left of modern Ostia, just inside the pine-forest. There is nothing further to see. There is a pleasant ramble of about two miles down to the sea.

N.B.—Permission must be obtained of the prince, before leaving Rome, to enter the woods.

Seven miles beyond Castel Fusano is Tor Paterno, the site of the younger

PLINY'S VILLA.

"Seventeen miles from Rome; so that, having finished my affairs in town, I can pass my evenings here without breaking in upon the business of the day. There are two different roads to it: if you go by that of Laurentum, you must turn off at the fourteenth mile; if by Ostia, at the eleventh." (See Letter to Gallus, ii. 17.) Three miles inland is Capocotta, the site of Laurentum, the capital of Latium. Five miles off is Pratica, the ancient Lavinium, founded by Æneas.

LIST OF EMPERORS.

LIST OF KINGS OF ROME.

HISTORICAL PERIODS.

VISITOR'S ROMAN DIRECTORY

ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED.

GUIDE TO USEFUL INFORMATION.

Owing to constant changes in the information desired by Visitors, Mr. S. Russell Forbes publishes The Directory and Bulletin fortnightly, in which will be found all the latest information required—church ceremonies, city news, and recent discoveries, etc.

The editor cannot hold himself responsible for any changes, hours of entry, or arrangements of contents of Museums. The shops recommended are from personal experience; their prices are fixed. The following are correct to the moment of going to press:—

• Archæological Association—93 Via Babuino, 2^o p^o
• Archæological Society (British and American)—76 Via della Croce.
• Arts, British Academy—22A Via S. Nicolò da Tolentino.
• Artists' Colourman—Dovizielli, 136 Via Babuino.
• Articles of Religion—Valenzi, 76 Piazza di Spagna.

ARTISTS IN ROME, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN.

Artists are invited to send their names and addresses for insertion; also notice as to change of studio, etc.

ARTISTS, NATIVE AND FOREIGN.

CARRIAGE TARIFF.

GALLERIES, MUSEUMS, AND VILLAS OF ROME.

GALLERIES.

MUSEUMS.

On Sundays and Festivals the Private Galleries and Museums are closed; those (*) under the Municipality are opened free.

VILLAS.

HOTELS RECOMMENDED.

• Allemagna, Via Condotti. Second class; central.
• Bristol, Piazza Barberini. First class; central.
• Capitol, Corso. Second class; very handy.
• Centrale, Piazza Rosa. Third class; central.
• Continental, opposite Station exit. First class.
• Europa, Piazza di Spagna. First class; central.
• Inghilterra, Bocca di Leone. First class; central.
• Londra, Piazza di Spagna. First class; central.
• Molaro, Via Capo le Case. Very good; central.
• Paris, Nicolò da Tolentino. First class; central.
• Pace, Via Sistina. Second class; good position.
• Quirinale, Via Nazionale. First class; good position.
• Russie, Piazza del Popolo. First class; good position.
• Vittoria, Via due Macelli. Second class; central.

Terms—8, 10, and 12 lire, and upwards, per day, according to class and rooms.

PUBLIC LIBRARIES.

MASONIC.

The Masonic Hall is in the Via Campo Marzio, No. 48. The Most Worshipful the Grand Master of the Order in Italy is Brother Signor Lemini Adriano; Grand Secretary, Brother Luigi Castellazzo.

The Universo Lodge meets every Wednesday at 9 p.m. The Rienzi and Spartico Lodges meet occasionally.

ORDERS REQUIRED, AND WHERE OBTAINABLE.

GRATIS.

The Bankers and Hotel Porters supply these without the Visitor losing time by going to the proper quarters.

• For an interview with His Holiness the Pope. Of Monsignor Macchi, at the Vatican.
• S. Peter's Dome. Of Monsignor Fiorani, in the Sacristy.
• S. Peter's Crypt. Of Cardinal Ledockowski, Palazzo Cancelleria.
• Vatican Mosaic Manufactory. Of Monsignor Fiorani, in the Sacristy.
• Vatican Gallery, Loggie, and Stanze of Raphael, Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museum, etc. Of Monsignor Macchi, at the Vatican, from 10 till 1.
• Borgia Apartment. Cardinal Ledockowski, Palazzo Cancelleria.
• Villa Albani and Villa Torlonia. At the Palazzo Torlonia, Piazza di Venezia.
• Villa Wolkonsky. At the Russian Consulate, Palazzo Feoli, Corso.
• House of the Deputies. From any member.
• Villa Ludovisi. At the Palazzo Piombino, Piazza Colonna.
• Castle of S. Angelo. At the Commandant's Office, Via de' Burro.
• Auditorium of Mæcenas. At the Capitol.

OMNIBUS ROUTES IN ROME.

PROTESTANT CHURCHES IN ROME.

• The English Church (All Saints'), Via Babuino—Rev. H. W. Wasse.
• Trinity Church (Church of England), Piazza S. Silvestro.
• American Church, Via Nazionale—Rev. Dr. Nevin.
• Free Presbyterian Church, Via Venti Settembre—Rev. Gordon Gray.
• Apostolic Church of Rome, 35 Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina—Mr. Wall.
• Baptist Church, 27 Via del Teatro Valle—Rev. Eager.
• Chiesa Libera, 43 Via di Panico, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo—Father Gavazzi.
• English Methodist, 64 Via della Scrofa—Rev. H. Piggott.
• American Methodist, Piazza Poli—Dr. Vernon.
• Waldensian Church, Via Nazionale.

POSTAL NOTICES.

Post Office—Piazza S. Silvestro.

The English and American Mail is closed at 8 P.M. Letters not exceeding ½ oz. to England or America, 25 cent.

Postal Cards to any European country in the Postal Union, or to America, 10 cent. Newspapers to any European country in the Postal Union, or to America, 5 cent. Registration, 25 cent. in addition to postage.

The English and American Mail is distributed at 9 A.M. and 5.30 P.M. There are two despatches from England daily, except Sunday.

Letters for Italy not exceeding ½ oz., 20 cent.; one part of a town to another, 5 cent.; Newspapers for Italy, 2 cent.; Postal Cards, 10 cent.

Money Orders are issued to and from all the principal towns of England and America.

Telegrams not exceeding 15 words (address included), in Italy, 1 franc. Telegrams for England and America at a word rate.

Packages not weighing more than 3 kilos can be sent to Dover or London for lire 3.75; to any other part of England, for lire 4.85; and to Scotland and Ireland, for lire 5.70.

Booksellers—Piale, 1 Piazza di Spagna; Alinari & Cook, 90 Corso; Spithoever, 85 Piazza di Spagna; Loescher, 307 Corso; Bocca, 216 Corso.

Boot-maker—Baldelli, 102 Corso.

Bronzes—Nelli, 139 Via Babuino; Guttkorn, 47 Piazza di Spagna; Morelli, 91 Via Babuino.

Bankers (English and American)—Macquay Hooker, 20 Piazza di Spagna; M'Bean, Piazza S. Silvestro; Plowden, 50 Via Mercede; Handley, 81 Piazza di Spagna; Vansittart, 10 Piazza di Spagna.

Baths—151 Via Corso; 96 Via Babuino; 1 Vicolo d'Alibert.

Bookbinder—Oliveri, 87 Piazza di Spagna, and 67 Via Nazionale; Sarrocchi, 94 Via Babuino, and at the Accademia dei Lincei (Corsini) Via Lungara.

Baker—Valan, 118 Via Babuino; Colalucci, 88 Via della Croce. Good tea.

Cigars—240 Corso.

Chemists (English)—Baker, 41 Piazza di Spagna; Sininberghi & Evans, 65 Via Condotti; Borioni, 98 Via Babuino; Berretti, 117 Via Frattina; Roberts, 36 Piazza in Lucina.

Homœopathic Chemist—Alleori, Via S. Claudio.

Catholic Colleges, English—Via di Monserrato. Scotch—Via Quattro Fontane. Irish—Via del Quirinale. United States—Via Umiltà.

Cook's Tourist Office—1A Piazza di Spagna.

Consulate, British—Mr. Franz, Piazza S. Claudio.

Consulate General, United States, America—Mr. W. L. Alden, 13 Via Nazionale.

Embassy, United States, America—Hon. John B. Stallo, 13 Via Nazionale.

Embassy, British—Sir John Savile Lumley, Via Venti Settembre, near the Porta Pia.

Cameos, Stone—De Felici, 3 Piazza di Spagna; Neri, 87 Via Babuino.

Cameos, Shell—Verge, 52 Piazza di Spagna.

Doctors—Dr. Charles, 72 San Niccolo da Tolentino; Dr. Young, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Dr. Drummond, 3 Piazza di Spagna; Dr. Thomson, 60 Via di Macelli; Dr. Spurway, 22 Bocca di Leone; Dr. Pio Blasi (highly recommended, specially for children), 48 Piazza Rondassini.

Dentists (American)—Dr. Chamberlain, 51 Piazza di Spagna; Dr. Van Marter, 172 Via Nazionale.

Draper—Todross, 417 Corso.

Drawing Masters—De Bonis, 48 Via del Governo Vecchio; Marchetti, 63 Via Fontanella Borghese; Molinari, 13 Vicolo Nicolò da Tolentino.

Forwarding Agents—Pitt & Scott, Franz, 6A Via Condotti.

Fox-hounds—Meet twice a week in the neighbourhood of the city. The appointments are posted at the libraries. Throw off at 11 o'clock.

Grocer—Parenti, 45 Piazza di Spagna; Casoni, 32 Piazza di Spagna.

Hairdresser—Pasquali, 12 Via Condotti.

Hatter—Miller, 16 Via Condotti.

House Agent—Contini, 6 Via Condotti.

Jewellery—Agostino Boni, 444 Corso; Fiorentini, 91 Piazza di Spagna; Tombini, 74 Piazza di Spagna; Suscipj, 257 Corso.

Libraries, Subscription—Piale, Piazza di Spagna (the best in Rome).

Mosaics—Rocchegiani, 13 Via Condotti; Gallant, 5 Piazza di Spagna.

Money-changer—Corbucci, 91 Piazza di Spagna.

Marbles—Rainaldi, 51A Via Babuino.

Music Masters—Gambale, 2 Via della Croce; Dr. Este, 4 Via della Leoncino; Miss Liebreichi, 118 Via Sistina; Tamburini (harp), 22 Quattro Fontane.

Nurses for the Sick—The Little Company of Mary, English nuns, 44 Via Sforza. Highly recommended. S. Paul's Home, 62 Via Palestro: Miss Martin, Superintendent.

Pensions—Smith, 93 Piazza di Spagna; Chapman, 76 Via Nazionale; Tallinback, 4 Via S. Martino; Mitchel, 72 Via Sistina; Sked, 57 Via Sistina.

Population—350,000.

Police-Office, chief—Palazzo della Prefettura, S. Apostoli.

Portrait Photographs—Suscipj, 48 Via Condotti.

Photographic Views, etc.—Alinari & Cook, 90 Corso; Anderson, at Spithöver's, 85 Piazza di Spagna; Parker, at Piale's, 1 Piazza di Spagna; Tuminello, 21 Via Condotti; Molens, 28 Via Condotti.

Railway Agency—8 Via Propaganda.

Roman Pearls—Rey, 121 Via Babuino.

Roman Silks—Fontana, 116 Via Babuino.

Saddler—Barfoot, 152 Via Babuino.

Stationer—Calzone, 346 Corso; Cook, 90 Corso.

Singing Masters—Bartolini, 109 Via Marforio; Nanni, 50 Via Ripetta.

Saddle Horses—Jarett, 3 Piazza del Popolo; Cairoli, 23 Vicolo Incurabili.

Society for the Protection of Animals in Rome—78 Via della Vite.

Theatres—Apollo, Via Tordinona. Costanzi, Via Nazionale. Argentina, Via Torre Argentina. Nazionale for drama, Via Nazionale. Umberto, Via dei Pontefici. Metastasio, Via Pallacorda. Manzoni, Via Urbana. Quirino, Via delle Vergini. Valle, Via Teatro Valle. Rossini, Via di Santa Chiara. Tickets can be bought and seats secured in the morning. The only way of knowing what will be performed in the evening is to consult the daily papers and the posters.

Terra-Cotta—Eugenio dell' Orto, 309 Piazza S. Apostoli.

Teachers of Languages—Mendel, 75 Via della Croce; Monachese, 8 Via Sebastiano; Nalli, 63 Via Purificazione.

Tobacco—Bring it with you, the Italian is bad. Corbucci, 91 Piazza di Spagna.

Tailors—Old England, 114 Via Nazionale.

Travelling Articles—Barfoot, 152 Via Babuino.