2026-10-05 - Fixing and Destroying a Sony CCD-TR707E Hi8 Camcorder ------------------------------------------------------------------ Introduction ------------ In addition to the Sony CCD-V900E[0], I also got a CCD-TR707E Hi8 camcorder in order to digitize tapes[1]. Like the V900E, this camcorder had lots of leaky capacitors, although they weren't quite as bad. Unfortunately, a gear in the mechanism eventually broke, so it isn't working anymore, but I did fix it initially. A service manual is available at [2], although that isn't needed for the repairs I did. WARNING: Cameras can contain dangerous voltages even if they are only powered by low-voltage batteries. Regular cameras have flash capacitors, camcorders such as the one described in this article contain a CRT (cathode ray tube) for the viewfinder, which runs on a high voltage. Only work on such devices if you know what you are doing and are aware of the risks. Disassembly ----------- As always, there are some screws on the outside that need to be removed[3-13]. The cover over the mechanism can also be removed[14-15]. Once all the screws have been removed, the front piece (where the camera is) can be taken off[16-17]. Note that some ribbon cables need to be disconnected during this step --- care must be taken because it's easy to pull on the circuit board underneath when the clips holding the front piece suddenly let go. After this, the side cover on the side of the mechanism door can be removed[18-19]. The battery connector slides into the other side and can also be detached once its ribbon cable has been unplugged[20]. I don't think it's necessary to remove the audio/video jacks, but I did so anyways to get them out of the way[21-22]. The board on the front is held by a screw and a connector on the underside[23-25]. Care must be taken when pulling it off in order to avoid damage when it is suddenly released from the connector. The piece with the tripod screw hole probably doesn't need to be unscrewed, but I removed it anyways[26]. Taking off the other side of the case requires removing some screws and unplugging some connectors/cables[27-33]. Disconnecting the connector shown in [31] might be easier if the piece with the tripod screw was removed beforehand, but as far as I can remember, it still should be possible otherwise. During reassembly, it's easier to reattach the tripod screw piece before putting the side piece on again. The circuit board on top with the camera is held by a screw and some metal parts[34-35]. It took me a bit of careful wiggling around to get the board out. Some ribbon cables also need to be disconnected[36] before the board can be removed completely[37-38]. Reattaching the ribbon cables during reassembly can be done using a spudger or similar tool[44]. The camera is held onto the circuit board by three screws on the bottom[39] and a solder connection on the top[40] that need to be unscrewed/desoldered before it can be removed[41-43]. Removing the bottom circuit board was slightly more challenging because I didn't realize at first that the metal frame around the entire mechanism had to be removed first. I first tried to simply remove the screws and disconnect the ribbon cables[45-48]. When that didn't work, I removed a small metal piece that was screwed onto the frame[49-51]. However, it still wasn't possible to remove the board, and the ribbon cables on one edge couldn't be unplugged easily because of the frame[52] (note that one ribbon cable is hidden underneath a shield[53]). Thus, I ended up removing the entire frame[54-59], after which it was easy to remove the circuit board[60-62]. Note the ribbon cable connected underneath the board that is shown in [60]. Apparently, a common issue on some camcorders is that the ribbon cables on the side lose their connection[63], so reseating them all might help fix some problems (I don't think I've seen any camcorder with that particular issue, but I thought I'd mention it anyways). The mechanism still has the door at the top attached to it[64]. This can be unscrewed[65] and removed[66] in order to properly access the mechanism[67-68]. Finally, the power supply/DC-DC converter board is attached to the side of the frame that was previously removed. It is enclosed by metal shielding that is held together by clips and solder connections[69-71]. Luckily, the shielding is fairly flexible, so the solder can be heated up while bending one side of the shielding away in order to break the connection (possibly after sucking away most of the solder with a solder sucker or solder wick). Capacitors ---------- I don't want to go into too many details on the capacitor replacement since most general advice is already included in my article on the V900E[0]. Of course, I made sure to check for electrolytic capacitors underneath all the shields in case there were any hidden ones[72]. Some capacitors were painted with some color, so I had to remove that with isopropyl alcohol first in order to read the capacitor and voltage rating[73]. A hopefully complete list of all electrolytic capacitors can be seen in [74-79]. I ended up increasing the rated voltage on quite a few capacitors while looking for replacements, especially on the 4V and 10V ones. This list also includes the viewfinder, although that isn't important when only repairing the camcorder for the purpose of digitizing tapes. I didn't show how to disassemble the viewfinder, but it shouldn't be difficult to figure out. The main trick to be aware of is that the eyepiece at the front needs to be twisted and pulled off before the rest of the viewfinder can be opened. Note that there are again some OS-CON capacitors, especially on the power supply board. I repeated the same mistake I made on the V900E, so I had to go back after the repair to solder the original OS-CON capacitors back in. Actually, it was the other way around because I repaired the TR707E before the V900E in real life, but you wouldn't have known that if I hadn't told you! Many capacitors had leaked, but luckily, the damage was not nearly as bad as in the V900E. There were some damaged pads, probably at least weakened by the leaked electrolyte so that they tore off quite easily while removing the old capacitors[80-81]. However, there did not seem to be any damaged traces/vias, so I only had to replace the capacitors instead of having to repair the circuit boards themselves. ========= A D V E R T I S E M E N T ========= _____________ / \ | CAPACITOR | | JUICE | | _____ | | | | | | |680uF| | | | | | | | 16V | | | |_____| | | | | | | | | IT'S GOT | | ELECTROLYTES! | \_____________/ ============================================= One problem was the limited space in some parts. For instance, I had to rotate one capacitor as far as was possible while still making proper contact with the pads (and not creating a short-circuit) so that I could even get to it with my soldering iron without first desoldering the surrounding components[82]. Also, no, the component to the left of the electrolytic capacitor in [82] is not broken, it just looks a bit like that in the picture. Some care must be taken to avoid bridging the can of the capacitor to anything else since solder can stick to it quite nicely when it is accidentally touched with the soldering iron (which can happen very easily in such a cramped space). I'm not sure if [82] shows the final state of that capacitor, I hope I cleaned off the solder on the capacitor can a bit afterwards. Another issue was that it seems to be practically impossible to obtain SMD electrolytic capacitors with 3mm diameter nowadays. The only ones I could find at all were from the WCAP-ASLU series by Würth Elektronik, unfortunately only rated for 85C instead of 105C. I replaced the two 22uF/4V capacitors with 22uF/6.3V ones from that series[83], but the 10uF/16V version wasn't in stock at the suppliers I checked at the time, so I had to somewhat hackily solder in a THT capacitor instead[84] (I was careful during reassembly to make sure that it fit in that position and wasn't damaged by the case). It might be possible to use other capacitor types instead (e.g. ceramic), but I don't know what the impact would be in this particular case. One trick I already mentioned in my previous article was that SMD electrolytic capacitors can sometimes be used to replace through-hole capacitors. I used that trick again this time, in particular when replacing the capacitors on the power supply board[85-87]. [88] shows some techniques that can be used when replacing capacitors. Note that the twisting method of removing SMD capacitors is used, although I still prefer the cutting method, as mentioned in a previous article. The video does show it the proper way, pushing down onto the circuit board while twisting back and forth so the pads don't break off as easily. One trick that I hadn't seen before is that you can just suck away the solder on the pads with a desoldering station (if you have one) instead of using desoldering wick on them. I had only seen those stations being used for desoldering through-hole parts before, not for cleaning SMD pads. The person in the video also cleans the circuit boards in a dishwasher, but I don't think I'd want to do that (not least because of all the toxic materials possibly ending up in the dishwasher). One interesting point, though, is that the dishwasher might clean all the vias (in the video, they are called "plate-throughs") properly when they are already filled with leaked electrolyte. That is a worry I had because I wasn't sure if my simple cleaning process properly cleaned those vias or if they could be damaged further by remaining electrolyte residue. So far, this doesn't seem to have caused any problems for me, but maybe I do have to think about improving my cleaning method. One last tip I have concerns the removal of all the capacitor leads stuck to the pads after cutting/twisting off the capacitors. I have a small cardboard box that I use for storing old capacitors and other small items (used desoldering wick, etc.) before bringing them to the recycling place. It's very convenient to just brush off the capacitor leads stuck to the soldering iron on the edge of the box, then they land directly in the trash instead of being stuck to my brass wool cleaner or elsewhere[89] (yes, that is a staged photo with a cold soldering iron tip, in case anyone noticed). Mechanism --------- As always, I removed the head cleaner since that generally only makes things worse when it's this old[90-94]. Note that there was some metal part that I unscrewed in order to remove the head cleaner but then screwed back in afterwards[94]. In order to move the mechanism, the motor can be powered manually using an external power supply[95] (this probably should only be done when the wires going to the motor are unplugged so the injected power can't damage anything on the circuit boards). As far as I can remember, I only used 2V for this, but maybe more is needed. Note that the cassette holder pops out quite suddenly at some point while moving to the eject position[96]. In order to snap it back in place, it needs to be held down while powering the motor in the reverse direction until it's held down properly. I performed some general servicing like cleaning the infrared LED and sensors[97] (note that the sensors are somewhat hidden on the sides) and greasing the gears and tracks[98]. This mechanism works quite differently than the one in the V900E. For instance, while ejecting, part of it moves up completely, even separating the tracks for the tape rollers[98-99]. According to the service manual, this is the FL mechanism. The tape guides[100] can be adjusted when the side of the camcorder isn't attached. As with the V900E, I also didn't tighten the set screws at the bottom completely so the guides can still be adjusted but also aren't so loose that they get misaligned by themselves. The test points for the RF signal are on connector CN002 of the VS-87 board. I don't have a matching cable to plug in there, so I just soldered wires directly to the connector[101]. The service manual (page 213) says that pin 4 (the bottom right wire in the picture) should be shorted to pin 15 (top left wire in the picture) to enable "PATH mode". Pin 4 is labeled as "PATH MODE" with a line on top, pin 15 is "RF GND" with a line on top. I'm not sure what the line over the label text means in this context, and I also don't know what path mode is. I know that one other camcorder service manual I looked at mentioned disabling auto-tracking while adjusting the tape path, so maybe path mode has something to do with that, but that's just a wild guess. As far as I can remember, I didn't really see any difference in the signal with pins 4 and 15 shorted or not. "RF GND" is just connected directly to the regular ground. The RF signal is at pin 16 (bottom left wire in the picture), and the head switch signal used as a trigger is at pin 10 (bottom middle wire in the picture). Pin 16 is labeled "PB RF" with a line on top, and pin 10 is labeled "RF SW P". The service manual actually says the trigger should be connected to pin 4, but that doesn't seem to make any sense to me since it's supposed to be shorted to ground. The adjustment seemed to work fine with the oscilloscope probes connected to pins 10 and 16, with the grounding clips connected to a part of the metal frame that was grounded properly[102]. Now comes the sad part of the article. The camcorder worked for some time, but then the mechanism stopped working because a gear on the takeup-side reel broke[103]. The problem with this gear is that it combines a plastic gear with a metal plate in the middle. The plastic slightly shrinks over the years, while the metal doesn't, so the plastic eventually breaks apart. The entire takeup-side reel can be taken out by removing the cover at the top of the mechanism[104] (I don't remember if this part was really necessary, but I can't be bothered to check now) and unscrewing the metal plate on the inside[105], after which the reel can then simply be pulled off. The infrared LED is attached to the metal plate covering the reels, so care must be taken not to tear the ribbon cable it is connected to. The reel is further split up into the top and bottom part, held together by a magnet[106-107] (I'm guessing the magnet and metal plate act as the slipping clutch, but I'm not sure), with the bottom part being the problematic gear. One note is that the three cracks in the gear are all at positions where there are small impressions in the plastic, possibly from the manufacturing process. This means that the gear is ever so slightly thinner in those places, which is probably the reason why it cracked there first. It might be possible to 3D print a replacement gear and stick it to the metal plate, but that would definitely require a high-end printer since the gear is only around 0.7mm thick. Note that the supply-side reel is more difficult to get out because it's additionally held by a brake wire, but it didn't seem to be broken like the takeup-side reel[108] (small cracks in the top part aren't as critical, the actual gear at the bottom is the important part). Conclusion ---------- Well, that's a depressing ending to this repair. If you're lucky, you can find a replacement takeup-side reel, but generally those are fairly expensive. It also isn't clear how long they would last since even unused gears will have shrunk slightly at this point, causing the same issue. The part number for the takeup-side reel is X-3727-951-2 according to the service manual, although it seems to be listed as X-3727-951-9 sometimes when searching for it online. The supply-side reel has the part number X-3727-952-1. It would be nice to get a working 3D printed part, but I don't really have any experience with that yet and also don't have any time for it right now. Other than the mechanism issue, I like this camcorder more than the V900E because it has much fewer electrolytic capacitors, and the traces/vias hadn't been damaged yet. Also, it has stereo audio output which the V900E lacks. Still, the mechanism issue sort of ruins it, and since this mechanism was shared by a lot of later Sony Video8/Hi8 camcorders, many have the same issue. Unlike the V900E, the camera on this camcorder did work after the repair, so I guess I can at least use it as a webcam... [0] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e.txt [1] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/tr707e.jpg [2] https://archive.org/details/manual_CCDTR707E_SM_SONY [3] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws01.jpg [4] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws02.jpg [5] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws03.jpg [6] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws04.jpg [7] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws05.jpg [8] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws06.jpg [9] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws07.jpg [10] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws08.jpg [11] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/outside_screws09.jpg [12] 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gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/bottom_board_removal14.jpg [59] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/bottom_board_removal15.jpg [60] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/bottom_board_removal16.jpg [61] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/bottom_board_removal17.jpg [62] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/bottom_board_removal18.jpg [63] https://youtube.com/watch?v=cufPRyUYB3k [64] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/mechanism_top_removal1.jpg [65] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/mechanism_top_removal2.jpg [66] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/mechanism_top_removal3.jpg [67] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/mechanism_back.jpg [68] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2026-10-05-sony-ccd-tr707e/mechanism_front.jpg [69] 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