2026-09-20 - Fixing a Sony CCD-V900E Hi8 Camcorder
--------------------------------------------------

Introduction
------------

Some time ago, I got a Sony CCD-V900E Hi8 camcorder in order to
digitize old recordings[0]. A service manual can be found at [1],
although that isn't actually necessary for the repairs I did. The
camcorder was in very bad shape because a lot of capacitors had leaked
and, in some cases, destroyed traces on the circuit boards. I didn't
even try turning it on before opening it because I knew there would
be leaky capacitors, and I didn't want to cause any more damage.

Opening up one of these camcorders is fairly involved, and I'm too
lazy to write a detailed description, but I still want to provide
at least some pictures of the process. The repair was almost a year
ago at this point, so I may have forgotten parts, but perhaps the
pictures will be at least somewhat useful. In general, I'd advise
anyone performing such a repair to take lots of pictures during the
process to aid during the reassembly later on. This doesn't require a
particularly good camera. I prefer to use a small compact camera that
can be operated using one hand instead of a larger one that requires me
to use my other hand to remove the lens cover. A modern phone camera
probably would also work, but my old Nokia phone doesn't have one. I
usually take pictures of all screws that I remove, and then keep the
screws in the same order that I removed them in so that I can later
just follow the pictures in reverse order and always use the correct
screws. If you don't have any convenient method of storing all the
different screws in the correct order, a trick I have used is to just
take a piece of paper and tape them on[2].

I took 421 pictures in total during this repair (more than 1 GiB of
storage), so feel free to contact me if you need any more or want
higher resolution versions.

WARNING: Cameras can contain dangerous voltages even if they are
only powered by low-voltage batteries. Regular cameras have flash
capacitors, camcorders such as the one described in this article
contain a CRT (cathode ray tube) for the viewfinder, which runs on
a high voltage. Only work on such devices if you know what you are
doing and are aware of the risks.

Disassembly
-----------

The first step is to remove a bunch of screws on the outside[3-8]. The
coin cell at the bottom can also be removed[9]. The mechanism is
covered by a plastic plate that can be removed[10-11] (although
it may be possible to leave that on for now in order to protect
the mechanism, but I don't remember if that interferes with the
rest of the disassembly). The two halves of the camcorder need to
be separated very carefully because there are several cables that
need to be unplugged[12-15]. It's not always easy to get the cables
out of the sockets, but it should be possible using fine hooks or
tweezers. As can be seen in [15], some of the connectors have tiny
cut-outs on the sides, so fine-tipped tweezers can be used to wiggle
the connector loose. Sometimes, needle-nose pliers are useful to pull
on the top part of the connector, but care needs to be taken because
it is easy to slip and break something.

The side with the microphone[16] isn't needed at all for playback. I
still replaced the capacitors there, but it really was unnecessary
work. One small note is that were were small plastic plugs in the
jacks on the outside which need to be removed in order to remove the
circuit boards[17].

The other side of the camcorder[18] is the important part with
everything necessary for playback. The part on top with various
buttons needs to be removed first[19-23]. The camera part can then
be removed[24-30]. Note that there are many cables that need to be
unplugged, in particular a ribbon cable underneath the camera part that
can easily be torn. I did replace the capacitors in the camera part,
but I really shouldn't have because it was a lot of work, and I was
only interested in playback. As such, I will only mention a few notes
here without going into any details on the disassembly process. On
one circuit board, I even had to replace three small resistors because
the whole area had been severely corroded by leaked electrolyte, and
the resistors seemed to be damaged as well (I did need the service
manual for this part because I wouldn't have known the correct values
for the resistors otherwise). One chip had some thermal paste on
it to transfer heat to the metal case around the circuit board[31],
so that should probably be replaced if the camera part is actually
needed. I didn't get the camera working even after all that work,
but I didn't feel like putting in any more work because, as I've said
often enough at this point, I was only interested in playback.

There's a small power supply/DC-DC converter board on the camera part
that *is* required for playback. I removed that so I could connect
it to the rest of the camcorder without needing the entire camera
part[32-35]. It is a bit annoying to get out because the shielding
is soldered in several places.

The mechanism and the circuit boards attached to it can now be removed
from the case[36-41]. Note that there is a ribbon cable on one side
that needs to be detached (the bottom one in [36]) and another one
coming out from below the mechanism[37]. There is also a metal part on
the bottom of the mechanism that fits into a plastic part for the auto
lock slider[38-39]. This is a bit annoying to fit into place during
reassembly (although I guess it isn't really too important when the
camera is left half-disassembled and only used for playback anyways).

The board with all the buttons on it can be unscrewed and removed
from the case[42]. There is a wheel sticking out from one side, so
it might take a bit of wiggling to get it out[43]. It's easy to lose
some of the slider/button pieces when the board is unscrewed since
they aren't held properly anymore then. The coin cell holder also
isn't held properly anymore once the camera and mechanism have been
removed, so that might fall out[44]. Additionally, there's another
piece in one corner for holding the camera strap that might fall
out[45-46]. I removed both of these pieces completely in the end
because they aren't needed when only using the camcorder for playback.

Mechanism
---------

The circuit boards on the mechanism are held on by various clips and
screws[47-62]. There are two smaller boards on the side that are held
on by connectors[48-49]. The first one shown in [48] has several
fuses for the power input[63]. I heard/read somewhere that those
sometimes go bad, but they were fine in this case. On the other side,
there is a larger board that needs to be unscrewed and desoldered
from a flexible copper plate[50-52]. There is also a ribbon cable
that needs to be detached, but the connector is hidden underneath a
metal shield[53]. However, this shield is only clipped on, so it can
be removed easily (note the capacitor that has fallen off because of
corrosion)[54]. Eventually, the three large circuit boards on the
back of the mechanism can be removed and "unfolded"[57] (sorry for
the blurry image). I desoldered all the metal shields in order to
check for capacitors underneath, for instance [58]. There is one more
small board on the mechanism that can be unscrewed easily, although
care needs to be taken because there are some plastic parts that fall
off easily when they aren't held by the screws anymore[59-62].

The mechanism seemed to be fine still, so I didn't do too much to it. I
did remove the head cleaner since that will only cause problems at
this point[64-65]. I also cleaned the infrared LED and sensors with
some isopropyl alcohol[66-68]. The sensors on the side can only be
accessed properly when the mechanism is in the "eject" state. Cleaning
the sensors should be possible even when the camcorder is assembled,
at least if the mechanism cover has been removed (possibly even when it
is still attached --- I can't be bothered to check right now). I saw
a video on the CCD-V701[117] which seems to have the same or at least
a similar mechanism. Apparently, the small set screws at the bottom of
the roller guides sometimes are loose, so the guides are loose and the
tape path is misaligned. In my CCD-V900E, the set screws maybe weren't
completely tight, but they also weren't really loose. I prefer to keep
them loose enough that the guides can be turned from the top to change
the tape path alignment. I guess you're probably supposed to loosen
the set screws, align the tape path, then properly tighten the set
screws again, but I need to change the alignment often for playing
various tapes, so there's no way I'm going to do that each time. I
want to write a dedicated article on tape path alignment eventually,
but I can't promise that it will happen very soon.

Of course, I also cleaned the heads, although there seems to be a
bit of uncertainty about the ideal method to do this. I would usually
just clean heads the same way I clean VHS VCR heads, using a piece of
clean paper drenched in isopropyl alcohol that I press against the
head drum while carefully turning it by hand and making sure not to
move the paper up or down since that could break the heads. Others
use chamois swabs, although these are obviously more expensive than
paper[69]. However, I have also read that you need more force to
dislodge the metal particle residue on the heads. For instance a
comment by 12voltvids under [69] mentions the fingernail method,
where you lightly hold your fingernail against the spinning(!) head
drum (of course the smooth middle part of the fingernail, not the
edge that could potentially break off a head). I recall seeing a
video by 12voltvids a while ago where this was demonstrated, but I
can't find it at the moment. This is a bit scary, though, because
the head drum has to be spinning for it to work, so you need to stick
your finger against the head drum while the camcorder is powered on
(although it might be an option to do it when the head drum briefly
spins up after plugging the camcorder in or turning it on instead of
doing it while it's playing a tape). Of course, dry cleaning tapes are
an option as well if you still have one of them. I have used all of
these cleaning methods, but I really cannot say which is the best or
whether it's correct that using paper/chamois won't clean the metal
particles properly.

One small note here is that during reassembly, the metal shield
covering a connector that was mentioned earlier can be clipped on
after the ribbon cable has been attached, otherwise it would be very
difficult to attach the cable properly[70].

Capacitors
----------

Now comes the difficult part of the repair, replacing all the
capacitors. I won't go into the details on soldering SMD electrolytic
capacitors since I already wrote about that in [71].

The most difficult part was not actually replacing the capacitors,
but fixing all the traces that had been destroyed by leaked
electrolyte. Broken traces on the surface aren't too difficult
to fix, but on these boards, many vias were destroyed[72]. Even
just testing continuity on those vias is really annoying because it
requires connecting the multimeter probes on different sides of the
board. This also makes it impossible to use a microscope properly
since the board can't lie flat while probes are held to points on both
sides. My strategy was to first remove all electrolytic capacitors,
clean the board, then systematically check all vias that looked as
if they could be damaged.

In order to clean circuit boards with leaked electrolyte, I
generally first use distilled/deionized water to clean off as much
of the electrolyte as possible using a soft, fine brush, then rinse
everything off using 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. According to [73] and
other sources, isopropyl alcohol doesn't properly dissolve the leaked
electrolyte, so it is good to first use water. Some people apparently
just put the circuit boards into a dishwasher, but I don't think I'd
dare to do that. Of course, the water needs to dry properly before
powering the board, but I generally try to blow as much liquid off
using compressed air (or, rather, a small air blower I have[74]),
especially from underneath larger components. It's probably a good
idea to avoid getting too much water/alcohol/electrolyte mixture into
components like variable resistors (or generally any sort of trimmer),
but it often isn't really avoidable when the board needs to be cleaned
properly. Some stubborn residue may need to be cleaned using a cotton
swab or even scraped off using tweezers or a scalpel. In some cases,
pads for SMD capacitors were covered in so much residue that I had to
scrape it off and then add solder and remove it again with desoldering
wick multiple times before the pad was reasonably clean. As far as
I can remember, there weren't any torn pads, just all the broken
traces/vias.

To test the continuity of vias, parts of the traces near the vias often
have to be scraped open so the multimeter probes can be connected to
those points. In some cases, the traces lead to exposed pads, so those
can be used instead. Once a broken via has been identified, it needs to
be cleared out so a thin copper wire can be pushed through and soldered
on both sides. For this camcorder, I used enameled copper wire with a
diameter of 0.118mm in most places, but sometimes I switched to 0.2mm
wire when the traces were thicker (I'm not sure what the ideal diameter
is for different trace widths, I just used thicker wire to be on the
safe side when it seemed appropriate). The enamel on the wire should
burn off through the heat of the soldering iron. It can take a while,
though, especially for thicker wires, so I sometimes try to burn it
off before trying to solder the wire to the board. After the wire has
been soldered, the excess can be cut off easily using a scalpel. Some
pictures of the process can be seen in [75-82]. I didn't have any
needle that was thin enough to fit through the vias, so I had to use
some very fine tweezers I had lying around. That was a bad idea because
those tweezers now aren't really usable anymore. The exposed wires and
solder joints should ideally be covered with UV solder mask in the
end, as shown in [80]. Note that I also tried to scrape away damaged,
flaky solder mask in order to clean underneath properly. For instance,
in [81-82], I scraped off all the dark green solder mask and replaced
it with UV solder mask after fixing all the broken traces/vias ([81]
was taken before I scraped off any solder mask, the copper on one
side was already exposed because the solder mask had been completely
destroyed by the leaked electrolyte).

I even added wires to some vias that were still continuous just because
they looked very corroded, so I wanted to be on the safe side. Still,
I'm not entirely sure how much leaked electrolyte might still be stuck
in some vias and slowly corroding them away without me knowing.
It would have been ideal to solder wires to all vias that showed even
slight signs of discoloration from leaked electrolyte, but that would
have been an insane amount of extra work.

I seem to recall that I also had to resolder the legs of some
components because the solder joints had been corroded. I don't
think there were too many instances of that problem in this
specific camcorder, but I saw it on other projects (mainly another
camcorder that I failed at repairing). Extra flux is a must-have
for getting the joints clean. It's sometimes necessary to add and
remove solder multiple times with a lot of added flux before the
corrosion/residue is cleaned off enough for a decent solder joint
to form. Another general note here is that a microscope is really
useful. It's definitely possible to solder the capacitors without a
microscope (although I'd still recommend at least having some good
magnifying glasses to check the joints after soldering). However,
I don't know if I'd have been able to perform all the trace repairs
without a microscope. I guess good magnifying glasses go a long way,
but I can't imagine what this repair would have been like without a
microscope, both to carefully check the entire board for damage, as
well as for the actual soldering.

A full list of capacitors (hopefully, I might have missed something)
can be seen in [83-98]. I used different methods of labeling
the capacitors in different pictures, depending on what was most
convenient. [83] just shows the labels in approximately the same layout
as the capacitors on the board, while some other pictures have lines
going to the correct capacitor. Sometimes I put a line or dot beside
the label to mark the negative side, other times I put a dot on the
capacitor itself. These pictures show all capacitors, including the
ones in the camera part which I really shouldn't have worked on at all.

One important note is that there were some OS-CON capacitors[99]
which can be identified easily by the label on the side. These are
apparently aluminium polymer capacitors, so they do not leak and
should definitely not be replaced by electrolytic capacitors. I
initially replaced them but then soldered the old OS-CON capacitors
back in when I realized my mistake (luckily, I hadn't taken the old
capacitors to the recycling place yet).

When searching for replacement capacitors, it may be useful to
increase the rated voltage of capacitors at least a bit in order to
avoid having to order too many different types (from what I've heard,
you shouldn't increase it too much because the characteristics change
with a higher rated voltage, but a bit should be fine). There usually
isn't much of a point in looking for 4V capacitors because it's a
lot easier to find good ones that are rated at 6.3V. For some low
capacitance values, it's almost impossible to even find capacitors
at low rated voltages anymore.

I usually first go through all the different circuit boards and write
the capacitance, rated voltage, and polarity of each capacitor on
a piece of paper in the same layout as on the board (the polarity
is often marked on the board, but it's good to double-check in case
the marking is wrong). Then, I tally up all the capacitors from all
boards so I know how many I need for each type. In camcorders, the
physical size is very important, so that also needs to be taken into
account. In some places, larger capacitors may be fine (I have even
seen pads for SMD electrolytic capacitors that were big enough that
one size larger still fit). I then check which capacitors I already
have in my capacitor collection so I can remove those from the list.
If I have a capacitor with a higher rated voltage that fits
otherwise, I might just use that instead to avoid having to order
more capacitors (if the rated voltage is too much higher, it probably
won't physically fit anyways). After that, I can start searching for
the exact capacitors to order. This requires a lot of back and forth
because there often will not be perfect replacements, so I have to
check for capacitors with a higher rated voltage or check if a
capacitor with a larger physical size would still fit. The whole
process is a pain, and I'm always very glad when I finally have the
exact list of capacitors that I need to order.

One issue when looking for replacement capacitors is that it is
sometimes difficult to find through-hole capacitors in the small
physical sizes that are needed for camcorders. When this is an
issue, it is often possible to use SMD capacitors instead. [100]
shows a bipolar SMD capacitor soldered in place of a through-hole
capacitor by bending the legs straight and pushing them through
the holes. This needs to be done carefully because the legs on SMD
capacitors are very thin and fragile, so they can break easily when
bending them. The particular example in [100] was in the camera part
that I never actually used, but I have used the trick successfully in
other projects. Even if small through-hole capacitors are available,
it might still be better to use SMD capacitors in some cases. For
instance, in some cases I've only been able to find through-hole
capacitors in the correct physical size with fairly bad specifications
(e.g. high ESR and only rated for a temperature of 85C instead of
105C), but there were SMD capacitors in the same physical size
available with much better specifications.

It's probably best to use low ESR, 105C capacitors at least for the
power supply/DC-DC converter (although that contained a lot of OS-CON
capacitors anyways in this case), but I don't know enough about the
design of camcorders to be able to say exactly which type of capacitor
is ideal in all the different places. Of course, other capacitors that
were marked with 105C should also be replaced with 105C capacitors.
Some of the capacitors I used in the DC-DC converter weren't low ESR
because I couldn't find any small enough through-hole ones and I didn't
think of using SMD capacitors instead at the time. It's been working so
 far, but I guess maybe I should go back and replace them with low ESR
SMD capacitors at some point.

I was happy enough to even find *any* capacitors with the correct
physical size, so I couldn't really worry too much about the exact
specifications. Ideally, I would have looked at the exact series used
for the original capacitors so I could get capacitors with similar
specifications, but it's often not even possible to find out what
exact series a capacitor was from (especially since the original ones
were from the 1980s). I did notice, for instance, that there were some
capacitors rated for 4.7uF/10V and others rated for 4.7uF/50V, but with
almost the same physical size. I replaced all of them with capacitors
rated for 50V, but the 10V ones probably had other characteristics
the 50V ones lacked if they were the same size but rated for a much
lower voltage. In summary, I have no clue what I'm doing, and don't
ask me for advice on choosing proper replacement capacitors. I'm just
glad that *anything* worked after this repair.

After all this soldering, the flux residue should be cleaned off,
even if no-clean flux is used. I usually just use a lot of isopropyl
alcohol and a soft brush to scrub it off[101], then rinse the whole
board with alcohol. I also use my air blower to dry the board more
quickly and push the alcohol out from underneath larger components. It
may be a good idea to soak everything in alcohol for a moment before
scrubbing to soften the flux residue first.

Initial Conclusion
------------------

After all this work, playback worked without any problems, but the
camera part still didn't (there was only a white picture in camera
mode). I decided not to perform any more work on it because I had never
planned to use it anyways, I just wanted to fix it for completeness'
sake. Of course, it's a bit annoying that I spent so much time on it
in the first place.

Don't Trip Over Camcorders
--------------------------

After using the camcorder to digitize some tapes, I learned that it is
probably not a good idea to keep it in a half-disassembled state in a
place where it is easy to trip over it. When the inevitable happened,
I tore the ribbon cable connecting the top part with the playback,
etc. buttons to the rest of the camcorder[102]. I didn't have any
other cable fitting the connector[103], but I did find a connector on
an old laptop mainboard that had the same number of pins with the same
spacing[104]. I used some low-melt solder so I could desolder the old
connectors with hot air at just 240C in order to avoid melting them
(although that was only really important for the "new" connector I
stole from the laptop mainboard)[105]. The cable initially didn't have
a wire for each pin in the connector, but it was plugged into the same
type of connector on both ends, so I just cut the cable in the middle
and then stuck wires from the plug on the other end into the plug I
was going to use[106]. Individual wires can be detached from a plug
like this one by carefully lifting the plastic clips holding them in
and pulling the wires out. I put the thicker white and red wires on
the outside because the outside traces were the thickest on the ribbon
cable, but I doubt that a lot of current flows through them anyways.

I then cut the broken part of the ribbon cable off and carefully
scratched away the insulation in one spot on each trace[107]. In order
to avoid shorting any wires, I staggered the solder connections on the
traces[108-109]. Two traces were very thin and only turned thicker
right before the edge, so I made sure to solder those at the very
edge on the thick part. Finally, I covered the solder connections
with UV solder mask and added several layers of kapton tape to add
a bit of stability[110-111]. The new connector could be soldered
easily since the pins had the same spacing[112], but it couldn't be
soldered to the large pads on the sides for mechanical stability,
so I just used some epoxy to glue it in place[113].

Everything still worked afterwards, but it sure would have been easier
to just not trip over the camcorder in the first place.

Conclusion
----------

I've used this camcorder to digitize quite a few tapes by now, so I
guess all the work was at least somewhat worth it. One issue is that
there is only a mono audio output, although I guess that isn't really
a huge problem for most home-recorded camcorder tapes that only used
the builtin microphone anyways. If I ever get around to building a
setup for VHS-Decode[114], I will be able to decode the RF signal
directly, completely bypassing the audio and video processing, but
I'm not sure when I'll ever have the time to do that.

I like the mechanism (according to the service manual, it's the
U mechanism) because the gears are fairly sturdy (compared to the
mechanism used on more modern Sony camcorders). Also, ejecting doesn't
involve as many moving parts because the cassette is immediately
ejected to the side instead of a large part of the mechanism moving
upwards together with the cassette before it is ejected like in many
of the other camcorder mechanisms.

I never fully reassembled the camcorder, I always leave it open with
just enough parts connected for playback to work since that lets
me access the internals more easily[115]. I should probably build a
proper case for it eventually so it doesn't fall apart as easily and
the power supply board is mounted more securely (since I removed it
from the camera part, it doesn't have anywhere to mount it to, so I
just have it sitting on a plastic bag to prevent it from touching any
of the other circuit boards). Also, I need to set the camcorder upright
during playback since the video and audio jacks are on the other side,
which makes the whole construction even more wobbly. Initially, I had
the viewfinder connected still, but eventually it stopped working,
and I didn't want to bother with it anymore since it's not required for
my purposes.

One final note is that there are some fairly easily accessible test
points that can be used to adjust the tape guides. I won't go into any
details on tape path alignment here, but there are plenty of resources
online, and maybe I'll write an article on that topic specifically
at some point. The CCD-V900E has its test points on connector CN802
on the board MR-20 at the side of the mechanism. The 6 pins from 1
to 6 are RF OUT, RF SWP, RF CH1, RF CH2, RF CH1', GND, respectively
(I did need the service manual to figure that out). In [116], the
brown wire is GND, green is RF CH2, and red is RF SWP. Those three
pins can be connected to regular 2.54mm jumper wires, but the pins
aren't spaced far enough apart to fit two jumper wires on two pins that
are right beside each other, so I would need to solder a wire or get
different jumper wires to properly connect oscilloscope probes to RF
CH1, RF CH1', or RF OUT while still having GND and RF SWP connected.
I'm not sure what RF CH1' is. RF SWP gives a square signal to trigger
the oscilloscope on, while RF CH1 and RF CH2 give the RF signal
(if I understand correctly, each gives the signal read by one head,
so together they give the entire signal --- I'm not an expert on this
area, though, so don't quote me on that). I thought RF OUT would be RF
CH1 and RF CH2 combined, but I couldn't get anything resembling an RF
signal out of it. Maybe some part is still defective, but the regular
video and audio output works fine, so I guess it doesn't matter.

Anyways, this was a fairly long article, and I probably still missed
important parts of the repair.


[0] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/v900e.jpg
[1] https://freeservicemanuals.info/servicemanuals/download/Sony/ccd-v900e.pdf
[2] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/screws.jpg
[3] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws1.jpg
[4] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws2.jpg
[5] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws3.jpg
[6] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws4.jpg
[7] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws5.jpg
[8] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/outside_screws6.jpg
[9] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/coin_cell.jpg
[10] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_cover1.jpg
[11] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_cover2.jpg
[12] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/initial_opening1.jpg
[13] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/initial_opening2.jpg
[14] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/initial_opening3.jpg
[15] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/initial_opening4.jpg
[16] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/microphone_side.jpg
[17] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/microphone_side_plugs.jpg
[18] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/main_side.jpg
[19] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/top_removal1.jpg
[20] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/top_removal2.jpg
[21] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/top_removal3.jpg
[22] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/top_removal4.jpg
[23] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/top_removal5.jpg
[24] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal1.jpg
[25] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal2.jpg
[26] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal3.jpg
[27] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal4.jpg
[28] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal5.jpg
[29] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal6.jpg
[30] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/camera_removal7.jpg
[31] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/thermal_paste.jpg
[32] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/power_supply_removal1.jpg
[33] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/power_supply_removal2.jpg
[34] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/power_supply_removal3.jpg
[35] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/power_supply_removal4.jpg
[36] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal1.jpg
[37] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal2.jpg
[38] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal3.jpg
[39] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal4.jpg
[40] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal5.jpg
[41] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_removal6.jpg
[42] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/button_board_removal1.jpg
[43] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/button_board_removal2.jpg
[44] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/button_board_removal3.jpg
[45] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/button_board_removal4.jpg
[46] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/button_board_removal5.jpg
[47] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal01.jpg
[48] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal02.jpg
[49] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal03.jpg
[50] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal04.jpg
[51] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal05.jpg
[52] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal06.jpg
[53] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal07.jpg
[54] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal08.jpg
[55] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal09.jpg
[56] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal10.jpg
[57] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal11.jpg
[58] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal12.jpg
[59] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal13.jpg
[60] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal14.jpg
[61] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal15.jpg
[62] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_removal16.jpg
[63] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/fuses.jpg
[64] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/head_cleaner1.jpg
[65] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/head_cleaner2.jpg
[66] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/infrared1.jpg
[67] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/infrared2.jpg
[68] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/infrared3.jpg
[69] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KCz59TCy8E
[70] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/mechanism_boards_reassembly.jpg
[71] gopher://lumidify.org/0/phlog/2025-12-07-yamaha-clp-150.txt
[72] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces1.jpg
[73] https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/what-chemical-to-clean-the-pcb-after-leaking-capacitors/
[74] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/air_blower.jpg
[75] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces2.jpg
[76] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces3.jpg
[77] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces4.jpg
[78] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces5.jpg
[79] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces6.jpg
[80] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces7.jpg
[81] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces8.jpg
[82] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/broken_traces9.jpg
[83] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps01.jpg
[84] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps02.jpg
[85] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps03.jpg
[86] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps04.jpg
[87] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps05.jpg
[88] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps06.jpg
[89] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps07.jpg
[90] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps08.jpg
[91] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps09.jpg
[92] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps10.jpg
[93] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps11.jpg
[94] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps12.jpg
[95] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps13.jpg
[96] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps14.jpg
[97] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps15.jpg
[98] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/caps16.jpg
[99] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/os-con.jpg
[100] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/smd_tht_replacement.jpg
[101] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/cleaning_flux.jpg
[102] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable01.jpg
[103] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable02.jpg
[104] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable03.jpg
[105] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable04.jpg
[106] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable05.jpg
[107] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable06.jpg
[108] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable07.jpg
[109] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable08.jpg
[110] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable09.jpg
[111] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable10.jpg
[112] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable11.jpg
[113] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/torn_ribbon_cable12.jpg
[114] https://github.com/oyvindln/vhs-decode
[115] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/partially_reassembled.jpg
[116] gopher://lumidify.org/I/phlog/2026-09-20-sony-ccd-v900e/test_points.jpg
[117] https://youtube.com/watch?v=zBPu6CGw8_M