[HN Gopher] A Year of 3D Printing
___________________________________________________________________
A Year of 3D Printing
Author : nindalf
Score : 69 points
Date : 2026-01-17 20:56 UTC (5 days ago)
(HTM) web link (brookehatton.com)
(TXT) w3m dump (brookehatton.com)
| JKCalhoun wrote:
| Awesome. This person got way busier than I did [1] (I think I
| focus more on creating original designs on the printer). When I
| first got the Bambu in 2024 I did the whole Gridfinity thing.
| Very fun.
|
| As their post makes clear (even to me) there are actually a lot
| of things out there you can 3D print. Something I printed last
| year (and did not even bother to post) was a center-console
| "compartment" for a 1995 Mazda Miata I have. I swapped out the
| trashy aftermarket stereo (a previous owner has installed in the
| Miata) for one that is close to OEM but then I had an empty
| "hole" in the center console. So I printed a cubby for it.
|
| I too was like the author. Originally got into 3D printing years
| ago--found it frustrating. Picking up a Bambu printer a yearish
| ago made made all the difference in the world for me. Previously
| I had an Ender and it was, endlessly frustrating (pun intended).
| The Bambu is so next-level, the software so well integrated and
| polished, that I finally found that I enjoy, and I am not
| burdened by, 3D printing.
|
| (The only caveat about the Bambu is that people worry about
| vendor lock-in. I don't believe Bambu have enshittified that way
| yet, and people are finding workarounds in case they do, albeit
| by adding complexity in setting up, printing. The price of the
| Bambu for someone getting into 3D printing is very attractive.)
|
| [1]
| https://engineersneedart.com/blog/3dprinting2025/3dprinting2...
| KeplerBoy wrote:
| Couldn't agree more.
|
| Knowing you can design a simple part in a few minutes and
| actually print it immediately afterwards is important. Before I
| got a reliable printer (bambulab a1) i put off even the
| smallest projects because I knew it would entail a multi-hour
| trial and error session with the printer.
| jacquesm wrote:
| Enders are for people that love the tinkering with printers
| aspect of 3D printing, I would not use them for production. We
| evaluated a couple but came away unimpressed.
| the__alchemist wrote:
| Hah, I hope I wasn't the previous owner! Needed an aux jack,
| and that seemed like the easiest way to add one!
| jagermo wrote:
| I have the same feelings about Bambu. I really like what Prusa
| is doing for the community and how they drive it forwards - but
| the Bambu simply works without fuzz. I also came from an Ender
| and its just so much fun.
| IgorPartola wrote:
| One of the most useful things that I print is Gridfinity storage
| boxes and holders. I try to organize as many of my tools and
| supplies using it. I sometimes do a little leather working for
| fun and have a drawer full of hardware, all in their own bins. In
| my garage my sockets, wrenches, etc. all has a Gridfinity holder.
| I design my own as much as I use pre-made ones. A while ago I
| even saw a shop that used it to organize most of their small
| wares. It's an incredible system.
|
| Another note: PLA has gotten significantly better in the past few
| years. PLA+ is legitimately better while being as easy to print
| and the Polymaker HT-PLA and HT-PLA-GF are even better as you can
| meaningfully anneal them after printing to make them strong and
| temperature resistant enough for some very functional prints.
| tylerflick wrote:
| Any reason you are recommending PLA instead of PETG?
| zihotki wrote:
| any reason to use PETG instead of PLA? PLA is plant based, in
| theory bio-degradable, while PETG is produced from crude oil.
| brovonov wrote:
| That is mostly true, PLA is ONLY biodegradable in a
| facility that can handle that. Your run of the mill
| recycling center in your city probably can't or won't take
| your PLA prints.
| gambiting wrote:
| And then only if it's pure PLA with no additives. Which
| most PLA has to improve speed of printing or strength or
| some other property. In practice, I'd wager that 90% of
| commercially available PLA fillament is not actually
| biodegradable.
| dgroshev wrote:
| Less creep, slightly better at absorbing shocks without
| breaking, better failure behaviour (PLA can suddenly
| shatter leaving sharp edges, PETG tends to deform
| elastically first).
| Fomite wrote:
| Note that "deform elastically" is not necessarily a
| desirable failure state if it happens earlier than
| shattering.
| dangus wrote:
| Not the person you're replying to, but I can see the appeal
| of PLA. It has more color options and prints way easier.
|
| I personally run all PETG because it is ultimately better
| material post-print, and once you understand how to print
| with it, it's not really much harder to deal with.
|
| The day I discovered that I should just run my dryer with the
| PETG inside while printing was revolutionary. Of course, that
| requires you own a dryer that allows the filament to print
| while it's inside.
| IgorPartola wrote:
| I wish I knew how to dial in PETG fully. It prints fine for
| me but I still get globbing and stringing so the surface
| finish just isn't that amazing.
| dangus wrote:
| That's definitely still where I see the appeal of PLA,
| and once I get through the _too much bulk PETG_ that I
| own I may mix up my future purchases to have more PLA
| where I don 't need load strength and won't have issues
| with high temperature usage.
|
| I am getting reasonably consistent prints but they aren't
| perfect.
|
| The long version of my tips for using PETG are:
|
| - A Bambu Lab printer doesn't hurt since it's so nicely
| calibrated and idiot-proof
|
| - Clean the build plate with dish soap and dry fully. I
| haven't found any need for glue stick on a textured
| plate.
|
| - Using a filament that has a profile available from the
| manufacturer for Bambu lab printers
|
| - Printing with the filament in the dryer with the dryer
| running during printing
| IgorPartola wrote:
| I still get worse finish quality with PETG (stringing and
| globbing) and these PLA+ type materials just end up being as
| good for me while being easier to print. PLA also prints a
| bit faster.
| jacquesm wrote:
| This is not my experience. PETG should be utterly problem
| free, super fast to print and has a much lower fraction of
| failed prints due to various adhesion issues. The big trick
| is to make sure the filament is dry, if it is not you will
| be in for a world of trouble. But properly used prints will
| last much longer, and are mechanically (much) stronger. On
| top of all that we can buy PETG in bulk for about a third
| of the price of PLA.
|
| For functional parts I would not use anything else until
| there is a really good reason (such as high temperature
| stability or more strength for a given weight or cross
| section). I've gone through multiple tons of the stuff now
| (3500 Kg in total or so) on 85 printers (Bambu's (43),
| Creality (22) K1s and Prusas (20)), consistency between
| batches is very good though from brand to brand there can
| be some notable differences.
|
| If you have stringing and globbing problems with PETG my
| first guess would be that the filament profile that you are
| using is subtly off for that particular brand of PETG
| and/or that the filament wasn't dry.
| noo_u wrote:
| Calling PETG "utterly problem free" is quite a stretch
| lol. PLA is pretty objectively much easier to print than
| PETG, and perhaps than all the popular filament types out
| there, especially if you are trying to print anything
| where precision/detail matters. .
|
| PETG is just oozier and stickier by default, so
| stringiness is almost guaranteed to happen, bridging at a
| greater risk of failure, etc. It is tougher, so unless
| you have a printer that can use multiple filaments on the
| same print, removing supports is more difficult.
|
| Can you reduce these factors by tuning your 3D printer -
| yes, a bit. But that's not "utterly problem free".
|
| PLA is the plug and play of the 3D printing world right
| now.
| jacquesm wrote:
| When you print objects with 10's of printers 'tuning your
| 3D printer' is no longer an option other than to tune it
| to be 'in spec' You can only tune your designs and the
| profile for your filament and for a particular model of
| printer but then all of those have to be close to
| identical. As soon as you start tweaking your design or
| filament profile to offset possible issues with the
| printer you've lost reproducibility.
|
| Incidentally, a lot of the stuff on thingiverse and other
| similar sites suffers from those kind of issues. They are
| tuned for PLA on a particular printer without realizing
| it.
| noo_u wrote:
| The real question is - did you buy 10s of printers
| because you needed them for the business, or did you
| start the business to buy 10s of printers :P
| the__alchemist wrote:
| PETG is, for me, always stringy. And I don't want to breath
| ABS fumes.
| Fomite wrote:
| For some applications, PLA is a little more rigid. It will
| then fail in a spectacular fashion, but "I need you not to
| bend" is something PETG doesn't always perform the best for.
| m4rtink wrote:
| From my experience PLA is just easier to print - prints are
| less likely to fail and more consistent.
|
| Also due to lower nozzle and bed temperatures, prints start
| faster so you can check the first layer sooner before you let
| the printer do its thing.
| pandemic_region wrote:
| The A1 has a relatively small printing plate. How does it work
| for boxes that are larger ? You print them in pieces and click
| / glue them together ?
| brookke wrote:
| This is true. So far, everything I have printed has fitted on
| the plate. However, for larger items you can split them on
| the slicer and include connectors to join them back up - I'm
| yet to try this though
| bborud wrote:
| I tried this with some longer gridfinity boxes and the
| result was a bit meh. You have to glue them, but even then
| they aren't as solid as I'd like. But I only have a handful
| of boxes that needed to be long so it doesn't matter.
|
| One thing I've started playing with now are gridfinity
| cases so I can pick a bunch of part boxes out of my
| drawers, put them in the case and take them to the garage
| without risk of everything falling out. Then, when I'm
| done, they go back in the drawer.
| Fomite wrote:
| I print wargaming terrain that's bigger than the bed of my
| P1S from time to time. The clear Gorilla polyurethane glue
| has worked really well for me.
| dgroshev wrote:
| Unfortunately, even annealed HT-PLA-GF still creeps quite a
| bit. I find this to be the main problem using PLA as an
| engineering filament. For many parts it doesn't matter, of
| course.
| LanceH wrote:
| I like having a gridfinity grid on my desk with a number of
| various sized boxes for at-hand storage of things like
| paperclips, tacks, pens, etc...
|
| In the garage, I have one that I can slap down anywhere, with a
| couple boxes that I can load for the screws, nails, washers,
| nuts, and bolts, etc... used in my current project.
|
| Having the grid makes the boxes sit firmly in place.
| 0xb0565e486 wrote:
| Lovely 3D header animation! Fits incredibly well with the posts
| content :)
| brookke wrote:
| Glad you like it. First time properly delving into three.js -
| other than the page size I'm really happy with how it turned
| out
| ConfusedDog wrote:
| Gridfinity seems very useful. I might try it. I spent $100 on FB
| marketplace 2 years ago for a AnkerMake M5C with bunch of rolls
| of PLA. I've printed hairdryer rack, containers, Labubus as
| little gifts for neighborhood kids to paint over. I thought about
| getting a multi-color 3d printer like Anycubic Kobra S1 combo,
| but the wasting of plastics is holding me back. Snapmaker U1 is
| much better but more expensive.
| brovonov wrote:
| The U1, so far, is looking to be a great printer. No idea on
| long term, but you will not find another toolchanger at that
| low of a price.
| LeafItAlone wrote:
| All of this was on a Bambu A1 Mini?
|
| These are the types of things I want to print. My Ender 3 was so
| finicky, I only got a few out before I gave up.
| brookke wrote:
| It was indeed. Honestly, it's been more reliable than any
| inkjet 2d printer I've owned.
| otter-in-a-suit wrote:
| I just got a Bambu P1S (they are / were on sale since the P2S
| came out) and the difference to my Ender 3 is truly night and
| day. I almost never used the Ender, since it always resulted
| endless tinkering and even then, the prints never came out
| well. The Bambu worked flawlessly out of the box.
| Fomite wrote:
| The P1S is such a good printer.
| linsomniac wrote:
| I had an Ender 3 Pro, and it was also very finicky, ~18 months
| ago I replaced it with a Bambu P1S and that thing is just a
| (nearly) fire and forget machine. I've been super happy with
| it. In the 18 months I've had it, I've probably gone through
| 10-20 rolls of filament, in the 4 years I had the Ender I went
| through maybe 3-4 (because every time I wanted to print
| something I knew I'd have to spend an hour fiddling with it). A
| coworker has the Ender 3 though and his has been reliable, so
| it seems YMMV.
| gambiting wrote:
| Ha, another Ender survivor here. I had the Ender 5 Pro for a
| few years, recently bought a Bambu H2D and it's like going
| from a bicycle to a car with heated steering wheel. It "just
| works" (it still has the classic 3D printing problems of
| edges of the print lifting up etc, but that's not the
| printer's fault). Vast majority of the time it just works.
| hagbard_c wrote:
| Which problems did you have with the Ender apart from the
| mentioned _classic 3D printing problems_? As I mentioned in
| an earlier comment I 'm using one of these machines without
| too much trouble after fixing the mistakes made by a
| previous owner. I did put more capable firmware on the
| thing which improved printing speed - especially in the
| preparation phase - and to a lesser extent quality but even
| with the stock firmware it performed well enough with PETG
| and some complex models after dialing in the temperatures,
| distances and speeds to the somewhat odd filaments I use. I
| can send code directly to the printer, no SD card needed, I
| can follow printing progress in a browser and I don't send
| a single bit of information to the Creality mothership
| while doing so. The same is probably harder - but maybe not
| impossible, I haven't looked into this yet - with Bambu
| printers?
| gambiting wrote:
| >>Which problems did you have with the Ender apart from
| the mentioned classic 3D printing problems?
|
| The kind of problems that could only be solved with a
| rather embarrasing amount of tuning every time I switched
| filament types or speeds or the temperature in my garage
| changed etc etc etc. Things that basically meant that
| every time I wanted to introduce any change I needed to
| print a new flow tower, new bridging tower, new
| temperature tower, the bed levelling took a huge amount
| of effort to install BL touch on it but it still
| worked....when it wanted to, with parts of the first
| layer being too close scraping the bed and others being
| far enough to not stick.
|
| Don't get me wrong - the Ender 5 could print as well as
| the H2D can, absolutely. But it would need 10 test prints
| and me pulling my hair out first to get to the same level
| of quality - which I have done, repeatedly, but I just
| lost the appetite for the tinkering. With the H2D I click
| print and the machine calibrates itself so well I
| actually feel bad for anyone who only ever experienced
| this and never had to sit down calibrating extruder steps
| or flow rates manually. (yes, old man yelling at clouds).
|
| >>and I don't send a single bit of information to the
| Creality mothership while doing so. The same is probably
| harder - but maybe not impossible, I haven't looked into
| this yet - with Bambu printers?
|
| Bambu printers, even with the most recent firmware allow
| Home Assist integration where you can monitor all print
| parameters remotely. But to be completely honest with you
| - I did go through a phase where I cared about stuff like
| this, now I just want it to work and be more like my
| dishwasher than like my bike, I want to tinker with the
| bike but my 3D printer should "just" work.
| jinushaun wrote:
| I picked up a P1S for Black Friday. I've been printing non-stop
| since December, including some stuff I modeled myself. Only
| failed prints have been because I printed the wrong thing. It's
| been flawless with PLA. Haven't done PETG or ASA yet.
| hagbard_c wrote:
| I got a cheap Ender-3 V2 with a few modifications (extruder
| moved to the sled, CR-touch sensor mounted) which - after
| redoing the wiring which the previous owner somehow messed up,
| replacing some mismatched bolts, putting nuts and washers on
| the bolts underneath the hot plate, putting the springs in
| their correct locations, removing a metric ton of hot glue,
| aceton-glueing a few broken ABS details, installing more
| capable firmware [1] and tightening all bolts - seems to work
| just fine. Thus far I've only used PETG to print spare parts to
| repair broken appliances, this started out with some hiccups
| but works fine after installing the mentioned firmware. It
| isn't particularly fast, it isn't particularly pretty but it
| does work for my purpose: create parts to repair and build
| things. I have no doubt that a more modern printer can make
| life easier but thus far life hasn't been hard with this Ender:
| design a model, slice and dice it and send it to the printer
| which does the rest. I've printed some fairly 'hairy' models
| which came out fine (i.e. not hairy/thready) even though I'm
| using PETG. For those with some technical aptitude - in other
| words for people who are wont to build and repair stuff - these
| machines are an affordable step into the additive manufacturing
| world with the promise of 'spare parts at your fingertips'.
|
| [1] https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1
| VladVladikoff wrote:
| I still have mixed emotions about 3D printing. I do love the idea
| of being able to print a part when I need it for something. But I
| do hate myself at the same time for creating more plastic junk.
| PLA is not really getting recycled, when it fails someone throws
| it in the trash and it goes to a landfill. Maybe some really
| diehard enthusiasts are ensuring all their failed prints and
| broken parts get properly chemically recycled, but I bet most
| don't bother and just bin it.
| lm28469 wrote:
| And that's the best case scenario, I think most people print
| useless junk to begin with, just look at the top downloads on
| printables.com, less than 30% are functional prints, most of
| them are short lived junk, and a lot are AI generated.
| knowitnone3 wrote:
| which is why I tell the shop techs to not print the benchy
| boat and print something useful instead.
| AngryData wrote:
| While they certainly correlate, downloads don't match print
| rates. Unless you got a ton of printers you are mostly doing
| one print at a time and each requires setup and cleanup, or
| possibly multiple attempts if there are difficult to print
| features.
|
| It can be multiple hours between prints because good prints
| take time. But you can spend 30 minutes browsing random
| peoples designs online and say "cool" and press download on
| 20 different designs that you only print 1 or 2 of
| ultimately.
|
| Also some designs look cool but the second you load your
| model up in a slicer you can see it is too finnicky or too
| long or expensive to print to be worth the effort.
| malfist wrote:
| In the US almost all PLA comes from corn, outside the US I
| think it mostly comes from sugarcane.
|
| It can be composted in industrial composters, but even if you
| dont do that it's still pretty green
| chakintosh wrote:
| The way I see it is that a 50g piece of 3D printed PLA could be
| used to fix a 5kg item that would have otherwise gone to the
| landfill. I for example have a broken hook for the door tray in
| my fridge, it's a tiny piece but it being broken rendered the
| entire 1kg tray useless, it's sitting on top of the fridge
| waiting for me to buy a 3D printer and fix it.
| proee wrote:
| Seems there is a market for a truly biodegradable print
| material, if even for doing a prototype before committing to a
| full plastic print. Or a real recyclable method to take old
| prints and reuse the material again.
| vablings wrote:
| The issue with biodegradable is that it is in direct contrast
| to something that is durable and long lasting.
| ofrzeta wrote:
| I feel the same and that has kept me from buying a printer.
| That is not to say that I never will but for the time being if
| I really need a particular part I can always use a printing
| service.
| knowitnone3 wrote:
| if you printed what you NEED, how is that junk?
|
| Let's see how much you really care: https://all3dp.com/2/best-
| diy-filament-extruder-kit-maker/
| mysterydip wrote:
| In the past I've mostly printed intersting/amusing things from
| places like thingiverse. But this year I had a project I needed
| an enclosure for, and instead of using something off the shelf I
| decided to print my own.
|
| Being able to design, print, test, change, print again really
| made the potential of 3D printing shine for me. I must have went
| through a couple dozen iterations as the hardware choices
| solidified and I saw what worked and what didn't (like "oh, I
| actually can't reach that screw once these two pieces are put
| together"). It was a really rewarding experience and I'm looking
| forward to the next project.
| lawn wrote:
| Nice. I mostly print parts for other 3D printers...
| RicoElectrico wrote:
| At first I assumed it's going to be this guy:
| https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGje7toBDzsiIrHIHG-eL...
| bborud wrote:
| I would encourage people who have never designed physical objects
| before to try to only print things they have designed themselves
| as an exercise. For perhaps a year or so.
|
| If you have never designed physical objects before it is really
| challenging at first. The learning curve is pretty steep and, at
| least in my case, I discovered that I didn't have a mental
| language for thinking about functional 3D and mechanical design.
| You also start to look more closely at the objects around you and
| think about what went into designing them.
|
| I started doing 3D design about a decade ago, when I got my first
| 3D printer. At first using free modeling in CAD and then later
| learning how to do constraint based and parametric designs in
| Fusion 360. This felt slow and perhaps limiting at first, but
| when you get used to it, it will save you a lot of time later and
| allow you to make more useful designs that are much easier to
| evolve and vary.
|
| I think it took something like 4-5 years before I printed
| something someone else had designed. Mostly because I used 3D
| printing to make custom parts for my own projects, but also in an
| effort to force myself to learn. I know the learning curve was
| steep, but for some reason I have forgotten how much work it was
| to learn.
|
| Now there are so many useful designs, designed by people who are
| a lot better than me available everywhere that I do print a lot
| of things others have designed. But I think learning to design
| things yourself is a really good opportunity to learn useful
| skills.
|
| For instance, I had never anticipated that I, a software
| engineer, would get paid, by an actual customer, to design parts
| for their projects. Or even consult on physical design for
| someone doing product development. I am by no means at the level
| where I'd put it front and center on a resume, but I can design,
| and to some degree, manufacture simple mechanical parts.
|
| (Along with 3D printing I've been doing some CNC at a very
| hobbyist level. I would still say I am very much a beginner when
| it comes to machining metals, but it is really fun to see that
| you can make reasonably precise metal parts for real applications
| (car parts) at home in my garage with not that much effort. This
| weekend I'll be doing thread milling in aluminum for the first
| time on a part that requires M3 screws)
| malfist wrote:
| I echo this sentiment. So many random annoyances around the
| house that I've fixed with self designed prints. Its a steep
| learning curve but you can start simple. First thing I designed
| was a spacer to go behind silverware organizers to keep them
| from sliding around. Still in use almost 8 years later.
| Horrible print quality and all.
|
| Last year I printed a peg leg for a nonstandard luggage wheel
| that broke off my suitcase and Samsonite won't sent a
| replacement for, a cleanable coil denitrifier for a saltwater
| aquarium, custom shadowbox drawer organizers for a toolbox, and
| during an aquarium emergency printed a metric to US pipe
| bushing.
|
| I also put the skills to use for woodworking modeling a set of
| couch doggie stairs and a couple years ago designing the
| building for my observatory.
|
| It's a really really useful skill
| bdunks wrote:
| I will add that FreeCAD has come a long way in constraint based
| and parametric part design, and I'm able to use it exclusively
| running an Arch-based distro.
|
| Deltahedra has extremely impressive tutorials on YouTube. No
| fluff -- no long intros or filler -- 30-60 minutes of dense
| content, clearly explained:
| https://www.youtube.com/@deltahedra3D
| Fomite wrote:
| I don't do this because I don't have the time to design
| wargaming terrain, but I've definitely pushed myself to do more
| designing for household things.
|
| It's a really good feeling to be able to put something together
| that solves your problem. As I asked my wife, "Is this why
| people with wood shops are always so smug?"
|
| It's also fun to be able to feel your skills building. I now
| have _opinions_ on friction fit box lids.
| randusername wrote:
| 3D printing has been humbling for me.
|
| I can express myself well spatially in code, but that doesn't
| help much in CAD where you have to figure out what combination
| of buttons and parameters will do what I want.
|
| I can manage dependencies well in code, but that doesn't help
| much in CAD. I continually struggle to design parts with
| geometry that is dependent on the spatial relationships and
| constraints of how multiple parts connect together.
| n00shie wrote:
| Have you ever tried https://openscad.org/?
| qazxcvbnmlp wrote:
| Cad in general isn't good at modeling spacial relationships
| between parts as a graph.
| jagermo wrote:
| gridfinity is really addictive. I have no idea what I want to do
| with it, but I want to print more.
| dgroshev wrote:
| I'd encourage people doing engineering/functional parts to also
| try ASA and PC(-CF). Both are pretty easy to print on enclosed
| printer like Prusa Core One, and they offer unique qualities that
| are impossible to achieve with PLA or PETG.
|
| Prusament PC Blend is insanely strong and stiff, I saw a 3mm PC
| bracket bending a high quality metal wood screw into an S-shape
| without breaking. PC-CF is much easier to print, looks great, and
| is stiffer still, even if a bit less strong. ASA looks great and
| is tougher than PC. Both creep less than PLA and PETG. Both shrug
| off 100C under load.
| jasonblick wrote:
| Hello, what are you using to render the models in the webpage?
| and what format did you export the models as to do that? It looks
| very nice!
| brookke wrote:
| Hey! It's using three.js with rapier for physics. The models
| are being loaded as STLs using the three.js stl loader
| https://threejs.org/docs/#STLLoader.
|
| https://github.com/Brookke/brookke.github.io/blob/main/src/c...
| SilverElfin wrote:
| Multiple states are trying to ban 3D printing and CNCs
|
| https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=46713872
| phkahler wrote:
| Reminds me of when Hollywood wanted to ban A2D converters to
| "plug the analog hole".
| coldcity_again wrote:
| Good article, but I really really enjoyed the (non-
| deterministic!) falling objects with physics engine at the top of
| the page.
| numpad0 wrote:
| Can't help but wonder looking through the gifs, am I actually
| insane that I MUST fillet, chamfer, or chamfer AND fillet
| basically every single one of those edges[1] with with tangency
| weight of 1.5 where possible, until the shape takes a generic
| apple/bauhaus/lego/ikea style? I'm aware that doing so don't
| necessarily improve load distribution, but I just can't stop
| rounding those corners.
|
| Am I really the only one?
|
| 1: http://numpad0.com/imgs/2026-01-23%20001128.png
| Igor_Wiwi wrote:
| By: motherfucker - Cults3D - I really like the 3D printing
| community
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