[HN Gopher] Show HN: Oasis - an open-source, 3D-printed smart te...
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       Show HN: Oasis - an open-source, 3D-printed smart terrarium
        
       See the website for a demo video: https://oasis-terrarium.com  This
       project is an enclosure for growing plants. Features include:
       - high-power LED lighting       - a built-in water tank and mister
       - fans for airflow       - temperature and humidity sensing       -
       wi-fi connectivity and a web-based interface for control and
       monitoring (see https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/usage_guide/#web-
       interface)       The entire project is open-source:
       - electronics: designed in KiCad       - 3D models: designed in
       CadQuery       - software: written in Rust       I initially
       started this project during COVID and built a working prototype
       using a Raspberry Pi and off-the-shelf parts. The first prototype
       worked, but was pretty rough. Several months ago, I picked up the
       project again and began a complete re-design. After two rounds of
       circuit board design and countless iterations of the 3D-printed
       parts, I'm finally happy with the results. Along the way I learned
       a lot about electronics design and fabrication, 3D modeling, and
       Rust.  Happy to answer any questions - thanks for checking it out!
       Here are some direct links to parts of the project you may find
       interesting:                 - demo video: https://oasis-
       terrarium.com       - detailed build guide with pictures:
       https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/build_guide/       - interactive
       3D model: https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/3dmodel/       -
       detailed info on electronics design: https://oasis-
       terrarium.com/docs/electronics/       - 3D-printable models:
       https://www.printables.com/model/1315117-oasis-smart-terrarium
        
       Author : jbuch
       Score  : 93 points
       Date   : 2025-06-24 14:03 UTC (8 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (github.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (github.com)
        
       | ravdar wrote:
       | what's the total cost of building this? and how long would it
       | take?
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Total cost is roughly $110 USD, but there are a couple caveats
         | to that price:                 - some parts are sold in
         | multiples, so you'll have to buy several even if you only need
         | one for the build       - I ordered the electronics from JLCPCB
         | where the minimum order quantity is 5 (minimum assembled is 2).
         | At a quantity of 5 assembled, the LED board is ~$12/board and
         | the mainboard is ~$41/board. If you're comfortable with SMD
         | soldering, you can order bare PCBs and parts and do it for much
         | cheaper by assembling only one of each board. You can find some
         | more details here: https://oasis-
         | terrarium.com/docs/electronics/#how-to-get-them. And a history
         | of my JLCPCB orders including costs here: https://oasis-
         | terrarium.com/docs/electronics/#pcb-order-history
         | 
         | With those caveats in mind, the rough breakdown is:
         | - custom electronics: $53       - 3D-printed parts (~600g of
         | PETG): $12       - other parts: $46
         | 
         | As for build time:                 - acquiring/assembling
         | electronics: this can vary a lot depending on whether you buy
         | assembled or do it yourself       - 3D-printing: depending on
         | your printer, maybe 2 solid days of printing       -
         | waterproofing 3D-printed parts: takes ~15 minutes to do and
         | 24hrs for the epoxy to cure       - final assembly: 30-60
         | minutes
        
       | craghack wrote:
       | Well built and a great write up!
       | 
       | Addressing some of the comments/concerns in your documentation:
       | 
       | * To protect the ultrasonic mister from bad firmware frying it,
       | you could probably replace R6 with a sufficiently sized capacitor
       | to make an effective DC block
       | 
       | * I've also had issues with a thermal sensor just reading board
       | temp, best solution is to make the sensor a separate board. Short
       | of that, one can mill slots around it and reduce copper pour to
       | reduce thermal conductivety from the PCB.
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Thanks!
         | 
         | > To protect the ultrasonic mister from bad firmware frying it,
         | you could probably replace R6 with a sufficiently sized
         | capacitor to make an effective DC block
         | 
         | That is an excellent idea - I'll definitely keep that in mind
         | for a future version.
         | 
         | > I've also had issues with a thermal sensor just reading board
         | temp, best solution is to make the sensor a separate board.
         | Short of that, one can mill slots around it and reduce copper
         | pour to reduce thermal conductivety from the PCB.
         | 
         | I ended up just moving the sensor offboard and as far away from
         | the heat source as I reasonably could. I did consider the
         | milled slots + reduced pour option, but given the amount of
         | heat generated by the LEDs, it seemed best to move the sensor
         | further away.
        
           | craghack wrote:
           | Most of my time designing hardware is spent trying to find
           | ways to prevent the doofus writing the firmware from
           | releasing the magic smoke. I am that doofus
        
       | iancmceachern wrote:
       | This is awesome! So much better than that MiT openAg thing.
        
       | dwroberts wrote:
       | This is a really cool project thank you for sharing.
       | 
       | I'm prototyping my own similar kind of thing right now - an
       | enclosure for growing culinary mushrooms - so seeing how you've
       | used and attached the humidifier discs is really useful
       | inspiration.
       | 
       | On humidification - have you considered decontamination for the
       | water? I think bacteria and scum build up is an issue, and I've
       | seen heavy duty equipment incorporate e.g. a submerged UVC light
       | for trying to keep it clean. I wonder whether it's possible to do
       | similar on a small scale by using a UVC LED (obviously need to be
       | careful with safety though)
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Thanks!
         | 
         | Sounds like a fun project, best of luck! Would love to see what
         | you come up with. One word of warning with the misting: using
         | them in an "upside down" configuration as I'm doing can be a
         | bit finicky. I've encountered some that slowly drip due to the
         | pressure of the water above them. Look for misting discs with
         | small hole sizes (<=4uM) and expect that some percent of them
         | won't work well. However, the ones that do drip at the start
         | typically stop after a day or two of use and are fine from
         | there on out.
         | 
         | I have not really considered decontamination and I don't think
         | it's much of an issue for terrariums because the plants and
         | soil in the enclosure already contain a lot of bacteria, etc. I
         | could see it being much more important for your use case with
         | mushrooms where a small number of mold spores can ruin an
         | entire mushroom grow.
        
       | bethekidyouwant wrote:
       | I like it, but it is not mostly 3-D printed.
        
       | yreg wrote:
       | It would be nice to see the default dimensions of this thing on
       | the landing page.
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Thanks, just added that.
        
       | deadbabe wrote:
       | I don't think LEDs work. Don't you need full spectrum lighting
       | for a terrarium?
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Full spectrum would be more optimal, but the 5700k "daylight"
         | LEDs I'm using still work very well. They're probably lacking a
         | bit on the red end of the spectrum compared to a full-spectrum
         | light, but otherwise they cover the photosynthetic range pretty
         | well. See page 19 of the datasheet for the LED spectrum:
         | https://downloads.cree-led.com/files/ds/x/XLamp-XTE.pdf. And
         | here for some decent general info:
         | https://www.neherpetoculture.com/vivariumlighting101.
         | 
         | Anecdotally, I've successfully grown a range of plants in these
         | including mosses, ferns, and orchids.
        
         | ge96 wrote:
         | I use these ultra bright led lights from LOWES the daylight
         | ones have been able to grow random stuff like
         | Apples/Mangoes/Pomegranates/Bell Peppers/etc... not as good as
         | being outside but it does work 12 hrs on/off
        
       | Aurornis wrote:
       | This is very cool. You've done a great job with the instructions.
       | I understand why you didn't write much about the best plants, but
       | for those of us who are new to terrariums could you share a link
       | about where I could learn about terrarium-appropriate plants and
       | where to acquire them?
        
         | jbuch wrote:
         | Thanks!
         | 
         | I'd recommend @SerpaDesign on YouTube as a great source of info
         | on terrariums - he's got quite a few videos that cover this,
         | but here's one to start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Lg4tz
         | kHgVo&t=1s&ab_channel=....
         | 
         | The main thing to keep in mind is that terrariums are high-
         | humidity environments, so plants like mosses, ferns, and
         | orchids will do well. Plants that prefer a dryer climate like
         | succulents and cacti will not do well.
         | 
         | Another consideration is lighting - some plants want more, some
         | want less. This terrarium is capable of fairly high light
         | output, but can also be set to any level you want. However,
         | you'll want to select plants that want a similar amount of
         | light so they can co-exist with the same light settings.
        
       | mandsgoo wrote:
       | Ive always wanted to do something like this. Nice!
        
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       (page generated 2025-06-24 23:01 UTC)