[HN Gopher] Counterculture legend who invented bell-bottom jeans...
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       Counterculture legend who invented bell-bottom jeans dies at 84
        
       Author : anigbrowl
       Score  : 85 points
       Date   : 2025-01-01 22:35 UTC (4 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.sfgate.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.sfgate.com)
        
       | toomuchtodo wrote:
       | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peggy_Caserta
        
         | Hilift wrote:
         | Peggy sold LSD for Owsley Stanley. Owsley was an legendary
         | audio engineer and the first large scale LSD producer
         | (1965-1967). He made five grams that made 5 million doses. Tom
         | Wolfe wrote about him in the Electric Kool Aid Acid Test
         | (1968), although I don't recall him mentioning Peggy. Truly an
         | oversight.
         | 
         | The "Acid Tests" were large parties where people drank fruit
         | punch mixed with LSD.
         | 
         | https://stanfordmag.org/contents/what-a-trip
        
           | soulofmischief wrote:
           | You're looking at 25k to 50k doses, not 5 million. A typical
           | dose is 100-200mg, and back then they were often even
           | stronger than that.
        
           | mistrial9 wrote:
           | the Acid Test parties were real and had a lot of impact at
           | the time! many say foolish, in hindsight.. there was a sense
           | of urgency among certain people about it that was a
           | combination of factors.
        
             | morkalork wrote:
             | There's a telling anecdote in the book about one of the
             | first parties where there were two coolers of Kool-Aid, one
             | plain and one with LSD in it. The organizers weren't
             | malicious, they put them out and made an announcement like
             | "this one is for lions and tigers, this other one is for
             | kittens" hint hint right? No one could hear it over the
             | music and the whole thing became a shit show. Definitely
             | their hearts were in the right place but they were also a
             | bunch of amateurs
        
       | master_crab wrote:
       | Imagining a time when San Francisco used to be the center of
       | fashion and music is wild.
        
         | Avicebron wrote:
         | It wasn't until I think around ww2 when sf got fucked really
         | hard population wise, that had like some maybe good 10 years
         | until the burden on the infrastructure and culture just blew it
         | to bits, I know people with family histories in the bay going
         | back until the gold rush and they really know what's been going
         | on and why it's so bad
        
         | _trampeltier wrote:
         | I just listened to the charts in the radio. Since streaming is
         | included, it's just sad. Most top songs are more than 40, 50,
         | 100 one even song over 250 weeks in the charts (Switzerland).
         | The "hits" are all just boring radio / background music. Of
         | course there is cool new music, but today nothing such is
         | played in the normal radio.
        
       | slfnflctd wrote:
       | Great piece. This subculture has been overanalyzed to death, but
       | the early roots were very humble indeed, and the spirit of
       | entrepreneurship this woman possessed was quite real and strong.
       | Circumstances and tragedy unfortunately short-circuited her
       | trajectory, yet she made a lasting impact, and it seems she found
       | grace in her stride again through her final chapters.
       | 
       | My parents had at least one Janis Joplin record and each dipped
       | their toes into the hippie scene, so I was aware of it early on.
       | Bell-bottom jeans were reviled by many in my early youth -
       | including me - but by the time I was in high school, I started to
       | see the appeal in more than one way. I helped create a fake video
       | news report on Woodstock as part of some kind of A/V class. I
       | took acid. I listened to the Grateful Dead tapes a friend had
       | acquired through the still robust tape-trading scene going at the
       | time (incidentally, some of my favorite background music lately
       | has been some instrumental-only jam collections posted by
       | gratefuldeadosaurusrex on YT, check it out if you're so
       | inclined).
       | 
       | Only a tiny percentage of baby boomers were actually
       | significantly involved in hippie culture, even during its height.
       | Like nearly everything truly special, it got overblown. Despite
       | its exaggerated presence and oft-deserved mixed reception,
       | though, there was something important about it. There's a reason
       | so many keep going back to take another look. I think it's wise
       | for some of us to continue sifting through the remnants to find
       | what's worth holding on to.
        
         | mistrial9 wrote:
         | interesting to read this and thank you for writing it.. I
         | suspect that many are missing the deeper roots of "folk" that
         | contributed to the whole thing.. Media was evolving at that
         | time, so certain media figures tend to represent the whole
         | thing in the perception of many, but media products were not
         | the only effects. Some aspects of the cultural emergence have
         | roots more than two thousand years IMHO
        
       | lotsofpulp wrote:
       | >They got on well, and when they were talking one day, she
       | learned Dugan had been sewing a triangle of paisley cloth into
       | her boyfriend's Levi's, allowing him to more comfortably pull
       | them over his boots.
       | 
       | Why was this person putting on their jeans after putting on their
       | shoes?
        
         | joshstrange wrote:
         | Maybe they mean pull the jeans down over the boots. Like put
         | the jeans on first, then your boots but in the process you push
         | up your jeans, then you want to pull your jeans back over the
         | tops of your boots.
        
           | lotsofpulp wrote:
           | Oh, that makes more sense. I've never worn shoes like that so
           | I couldn't make any sense of that situation.
        
           | 1659447091 wrote:
           | As a home-grown Texan--Exactly this.
           | 
           | Boot-cut and baby boot-cut jeans are required for proper boot
           | wearing.
        
         | ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
         | It's the other way round.
         | 
         | Boot-cut jeans (still being sold, these days) have a slight
         | flare, because the top of the boot is kind of wide, and hard to
         | get under the jeans.
         | 
         | I don't know if the US Navy still has bell-bottomed jeans, but
         | a part of their work uniform used to be these highwater
         | bellbottoms.
        
           | technothrasher wrote:
           | My immediate thought when I read the title of this thread
           | was, "What? The US Navy invented bell-bottomed jeans." But I
           | see it is just the headline here on HN that gets it wrong.
           | The actual article pointed to credits her with the origin of
           | the 1960-70's popular craze, not the invention.
        
             | superfunny wrote:
             | Did the US Navy invent bell-bottom JEANS or bell-bottom
             | pants? Were the version from the US Navy made of denim?
        
               | ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
               | I believe so.
               | 
               | Probably pics out there. They had them as jeans in the
               | late 1960s, when I was visiting a warship.
               | 
               |  _[UPDATED TO ADD]
               | 
               | Looks like they used to be jeans:
               | https://nara.getarchive.net/media/right-enlisted-
               | dungaree-un...
               | 
               | Now they wear Navy camo as work uniforms:
               | https://www.mynavyhr.navy.mil/References/US-Navy-
               | Uniforms/Un..._
        
       | ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
       | Great story. I had never heard about her, but she seems like
       | someone I would have enjoyed hanging with (later in her life).
        
       | fsckboy wrote:
       | in terms of invention, sailors had been wearing bell bottoms
       | since the US Navy introduced them 1817 and sailors tromping
       | around seaport cities would have been more of an every day event
       | through WWII. That US Navy uniform is informally called "Cracker
       | Jacks"
       | 
       | https://www.shopthesalvationarmy.com/Listing/Details/2645572...
       | 
       | They were intended to allow sailors to roll their pants up above
       | the knee while swabbing the decks
       | 
       | https://www.wearethemighty.com/mighty-trending/this-is-why-t...
       | 
       | But we can see "bell bottomed trousers" referenced in popular
       | culture in the 1940's, here's Louis Prima's band doing the song
       | Bell Bottomed Trousers
       | 
       | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QXmdbc5sx0
       | 
       | and here's a painting used for the sheet music
       | 
       | https://fineartamerica.com/featured/bell-bottom-trousers-alb...
       | 
       | https://www.ecrater.com/p/42407644/vintage-1944-bell-bottom-...
        
         | conductr wrote:
         | Interesting historical context but I also think fashion is
         | something where subtle changes can completely differentiate the
         | thing, and for that, these are not the bell bottom jeans I
         | think most people think of when that term gets mentioned. They
         | are loose around the upper parts all the way down. Much more
         | similar to the jeans the JNCO brand popularized in the 90s. The
         | 60s/70s bell bottom jeans were hip hugging but also flared at
         | the bottom. They were different enough to not be the same from
         | a fashion perspective.
        
           | MichaelZuo wrote:
           | It's not a novel invention in the legal sense, I doubt the
           | parent was trying to make a claim in the fashion sense which
           | might have millions of different subtle variations.
        
         | adfm wrote:
         | The bell bottoms referenced are alterations called "flares"
         | where colorful fabric panels were sewn into the garment rather
         | than manufactured whole cloth. To be clear, people knew bell
         | bottom pants existed, but "flares" were what people wore. I
         | believe everyone just started calling them bell bottoms because
         | it was a generic term.
         | 
         | There's a lot more to the recent past than you realize and not
         | all of it is online.
        
       | dieselgate wrote:
       | "Bell bottom blues you make me cry"
        
       | eadmund wrote:
       | > the long-haired woman with a Southern lilt behind the counter
       | who was the brainchild of it all, opening up the shop when she
       | was just 24 years old
       | 
       | Surely if she opened it up, the _shop_ was _her_ brainchild.
        
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       (page generated 2025-01-05 23:00 UTC)