[HN Gopher] Building a replacement 386/486 CMOS battery
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       Building a replacement 386/486 CMOS battery
        
       Author : Brajeshwar
       Score  : 56 points
       Date   : 2024-12-23 14:52 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (rubenerd.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (rubenerd.com)
        
       | smitelli wrote:
       | The only thing worse than these soldered-in batteries are those
       | motherboards with the Dallas DS1287 RTC "brick" ICs. They had a
       | coin cell buried inside the chip[1] with no way to provide
       | external power should it drain.
       | 
       | [1]: http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
        
         | alnwlsn wrote:
         | The only thing worse than that is when those things are
         | soldered and not in a DIP socket. They still make them (or a
         | compatible version) by the way, sealed battery and all.
        
         | TeamMCS wrote:
         | Ah yes. I've had to repair one of the Dallas ICs before. You
         | have to dig out a dremel and bite down till you get to the
         | metal then add some hook up wire. Unlike OP I chose to use
         | rechargable batteries that used to be used for home wireless
         | phones - they are the right voltage and often they supply a
         | battery charger.
         | 
         | If you're lucky you can desolder the the old battery and use a
         | couple of pin headers to get you back up and running. I do find
         | it irritating some retro machines wont even boot without a
         | working battery.
        
         | adrianmonk wrote:
         | Yeah, those are a thing on old Sun workstations. They have a
         | clock and they also store a small amount of data.
         | 
         | https://www.sun3arc.org/FAQ/sun-nvram-hostid.faq.phtml
         | 
         | I remember replacing one in the mid 1990s. The machine's
         | ethernet address is stored on this chip, and I believe it's
         | battery-backed RAM (not flash, EEPROM, etc.), so when the
         | battery dies, the data on the chip is lost.
         | 
         | When you install a new chip, you need to program in the
         | ethernet address so the machine can get on the network. The
         | proper thing to do is use the factory-assigned ethernet address
         | to ensure that it is unique. But you can't get the address from
         | the old chip. So, like many people, I just picked some random
         | numbers. It worked.
        
         | rzzzt wrote:
         | Necroware has a replacement design for Dallas RTCs:
         | https://github.com/necroware/nwX287
        
           | hyhconito wrote:
           | I don't know why there is a replacement design. You can still
           | buy them new from Mouser. They last 20 odd years usually.
        
         | moffkalast wrote:
         | Is this some attempt to get around "contains batteries"
         | shipping restrictions, since if anyone looks inside it'll just
         | be like any other chip and there's no way to tell unless you
         | start googling part serials lmao.
         | 
         | "No batteries here, officer! Move along."
        
         | Bluecobra wrote:
         | I'm not sure if it's worse, since AFAIK these don't leak. I
         | have a IBM PS/2 system that I inherited that I plan to restore
         | some day. Sure it's a pain but glad there was no damage to the
         | board.
        
         | blueflow wrote:
         | Dedication and a cutter knife do it. I did it myself, twice.
         | 
         | Once while it was soldered into a mainboard :P
        
         | userbinator wrote:
         | There were lots of test equipment with variants of those, and
         | unlike CMOS settings, they held critical calibration constants.
        
         | rasz wrote:
         | >no way
         | 
         | you drill/dremel in two spots, solder tow wires and you are
         | done.
         | 
         | https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2009-10-10-renovat...
        
           | geon wrote:
           | You can also heat them up, making the resin brittle so you
           | can chip it away and replace the battery.
        
       | dhuk_2018 wrote:
       | Why not use lithium AA? Duracell aklaleaks are the worse, in my
       | experience. At least if the alkalines do leak, they're in a
       | carrier away from the MB.
        
         | orev wrote:
         | They're using rechargeable NiMh, not alkalines. I would have
         | used the older Eneloops or current Fujitsus, but maybe
         | rechargeable Duracells have better quality than their
         | alkalines.
        
           | winrid wrote:
           | The NiMH Duracells are very high quality (at least according
           | to Project Farm).
        
       | buildsjets wrote:
       | Lots of older Apple hardware used soldered-in 1/2AA lithium
       | batteries. You can replace them with a removable battery holder
       | that was used on some later board versions.
       | 
       | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/10...
       | 
       | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/10...
        
         | hyhconito wrote:
         | Just a note with those holders. They shouldn't be used in
         | anything that will be shipped as the battery can get knocked
         | out. The original shipped batteries were soldered in so they
         | could be shipped safely. In fact a lot of the time the cells
         | were taped or cable tied as well as soldered in on some bits of
         | hardware!
         | 
         | The newer CR2032's have much lower mass and can withstand many
         | more G's before it's an issue so they are usually in holders.
        
           | buildsjets wrote:
           | That is why I added the second Mouser link for the retaining
           | clip, which is frequently missing from old stock. It takes a
           | screwdriver to unclip it, plenty secure for transportation.
        
             | hyhconito wrote:
             | Got it thanks. That link crashed Mouser the first time so I
             | assumed it was a dead one :)
        
       | incanus77 wrote:
       | I took this same approach when I repaired a 386 damaged by a
       | Varta battery. After fixing some motherboard traces, I installed
       | a Velcro's 3xAAA battery holder in my case for the same effect.
       | 
       | https://justinmiller.io/posts/2020/06/17/project-386-part-4/
        
       | jmclnx wrote:
       | I actually did the same thing for my old 286 ages ago, worked
       | great for many years. Sadly I moved to a smaller place and was
       | stupid enough to toss it out :(
       | 
       | Too bad they went to soldered batteries, decades ago people realy
       | knew how to design systems in the old days. Now, not so much.
        
       | Suppafly wrote:
       | This is cool, but I'm pretty sure you get these off the shelf.
       | I've scavenged them from old computers and I doubt people were
       | building them themselves.
        
       | gamedna wrote:
       | Love this, but iirc this was very common back in the day. Many of
       | the XT, AT, 286, 386, 486 clones came with these types of triple
       | AA battery packs, some with shrink wrap around them. It was easy
       | to cut the shrink wrap and replace the cells with generic AA.
        
         | accrual wrote:
         | That's my recollection as well. RTC batteries from this era
         | often came in four possible flavors:
         | 
         | * Varta barrel battery, subject to leaking and corroding traces
         | 
         | * AA/AAA style brick + leads to motherboard, easy to replace
         | 
         | * Dallas DS1287 epoxied battery + chip - can be replaced, cut
         | into to tap directly into the chip, or replaced with
         | Necroware's nwX287 RTC module [0]
         | 
         | * Lastly, the standard CR2023 style. I started seeing these
         | appear in later 486 Socket 3 boards, very rarely on anything
         | earlier
         | 
         | [0] https://github.com/necroware/nwX287
        
       | ruslan wrote:
       | Why not use a 5F/5V supercapacitor, DGH505Q5R5 or anything alike
       | ? You may need to solder a 10R current reducing resistor in
       | series.
        
         | Denvercoder9 wrote:
         | Not OP, but with supercapacitors you're talking about a wildly
         | different amount of energy. A 5F/5V cap stores about 62 J,
         | while a 2500mAh 1.2V AA battery stores 10 kJ. With three of
         | them you can store almost 500x as much energy.
        
         | londons_explore wrote:
         | What advantage does a supercap have over batteries?
        
         | Kirby64 wrote:
         | Super capacitors have very high self discharge rates relative
         | to a lithium battery. For something like an RTC which only uses
         | a tiny amount of power, you'd quickly discharge the cap and
         | have no way to charge it again.
        
       | johnklos wrote:
       | It's good to see this getting some attention. People should know
       | that removing batteries and replacing them with something modern,
       | particularly non-leaking modern, is a good thing.
       | 
       | Most motherboards work with 3 to 4.5 volts. If a circuit doesn't
       | charge, then it's a simple matter of using two or three AA or AAA
       | batteries. If it does, we can use rechargeable batteries (I've a
       | box of Ikea ones), or we can put a diode in line.
       | 
       | For instance, here's a replacement set for a Quadra 630
       | motherboard:
       | 
       | https://www.klos.com/~john/q630_batteries.png
        
         | roytam87 wrote:
         | AA or AAA batteries will leak.
        
           | devilbunny wrote:
           | If you have enough case space, that's not really a big issue.
           | I work in a surgery suite; we have single-use (for sterility)
           | items that use 8 AA's that will be discarded after five
           | minutes' use. I effectively have all the free AA batteries I
           | could ever use. Seriously, I could get easily get 40-50 a
           | week if I needed them.
        
       | tecleandor wrote:
       | About the ML2032 option: that's the one that came with Dreamcast
       | consoles. Lots of people swap it for an 2032 plus the diode when
       | it fails, but I rather use another ML2032 or a different
       | rechargeable thing to avoid opening the case again and again.
        
       ___________________________________________________________________
       (page generated 2024-12-24 23:02 UTC)