[HN Gopher] A Knife Forged in Fire
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       A Knife Forged in Fire
        
       Author : hentrep
       Score  : 48 points
       Date   : 2024-12-19 16:51 UTC (6 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.chicagomag.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.chicagomag.com)
        
       | lqet wrote:
       | That is some fine writing.
        
       | gopalv wrote:
       | I read this with an echo of the Douglas Adams passage about the
       | Sandwich Maker in Mostly Harmless.
       | 
       | > many was the evening when the Sandwich Maker and the Tool Maker
       | could be seen silhouetted against the light of the setting sun
       | and the Tool Maker's forge making slow sweeping movements through
       | the air, trying one knife after another, comparing the weight of
       | this one with the balance of another, the suppleness of a third
       | and the handle binding of a fourth
        
       | vzaliva wrote:
       | I get the nostalgia, but it's worth noting that modern metallurgy
       | has far surpassed classic knife-making techniques. Industrially-
       | made knives are stronger and hold an edge much better.
        
         | blovescoffee wrote:
         | It really depends. A cheap knife from ikea will not. But a
         | powdered steel knife which is itself a luxury will definitely
         | hold its edge better than carbon steel.
        
           | foobarian wrote:
           | There is also a tradeoff between ductility and hardness where
           | going too far in the hardness direction results in a knife
           | that chips easily and is really hard to sharpen. Softer
           | German style steels are in a sweet spot for me in that
           | regard, even though they require more frequent sharpening.
        
             | jazzyjackson wrote:
             | I was disappointed to find I had chipped my expensive
             | Global chefs knife without having tried anything out of the
             | ordinary like bones or nuts (side note, ceramic knives are
             | not the tool for slicing pecans!)
        
             | adrian_b wrote:
             | The very purpose of the powdered steel mentioned by the
             | previous poster is to improve this tradeoff between
             | ductility and hardness.
             | 
             | The simplest carbon steels can be made very hard with an
             | appropriate heat treatment, if they have high carbon
             | content, but then, as you say, they chip too easily.
             | 
             | The various kinds of alloyed steels that can be used
             | instead of carbon steel attempt to improve the tradeoff
             | between ductility and hardness, so that one may choose a
             | heat treatment that results in greater hardness without
             | making the blade as fragile as a blade made of carbon steel
             | with the same hardness.
             | 
             | The alloyed steels made using powder metallurgy are said to
             | achieve the best tradeoff between hardness and ductility,
             | but I have not tested this yet, because they are also the
             | most expensive.
             | 
             | In the past I have used softer German style steels, but I
             | do not like having to sharpen them, so now I prefer to use
             | only harder and sharper Japanese knives, which must be
             | sharpened much less frequently.
        
             | TheCondor wrote:
             | Do you have a sharpening system you recommend?
        
               | foobarian wrote:
               | Unfortunately nothing fancy, I have been doing it
               | manually on a large (10") two-sided sharpening stone.
               | More gear-oriented friends swear by products such as e.g.
               | what's available here https://wickededgeusa.com/
        
               | BanazirGalbasi wrote:
               | On the cheaper side, Lansky makes a good jig and set of
               | stones that's good for setting angles, and getting razor
               | edges if you already have the angle set. [1] Worksharp
               | makes a similar kit that's more stationary, with several
               | versions at different costs [2]
               | 
               | For a little more, and a little more freehand style, you
               | can try Spyderco's Sharpmaker [3]. My dad has one of
               | these, and growing up he would sharpen kitchen and pocket
               | knives to a razor edge very quickly with it.
               | 
               | I personally freehand sharpen my knives using Shapton
               | stones [4]. I have the Kurumaku at 320, 1000, 2000, 5000,
               | and 8000 grits, although the higher grits don't get used
               | often; usually the 1000 grit alone is enough for getting
               | a razor edge fairly quickly. I got mine from Amazon, but
               | you can find them various places for $30-50 each.
               | 
               | [1] https://www.lansky.com/deluxe-5-stone-system.html [2]
               | https://www.worksharptools.com/products/precision-adjust-
               | kni... [3]
               | https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77
               | [4] https://shapton.co.jp/en/#products
        
               | vl wrote:
               | Depends on level of commitment and results you need.
               | 
               | To do it once and for all buy belt sharpener - Work Sharp
               | with Blade Grinder Attachment being probably the best
               | price vs quality vs functionality.
               | 
               | For quality sharpening that requires a bit of time buy
               | rolling knife sharpener.
               | 
               | For quality sharpening which is fast and anyone can do
               | buy electrical ChefMate with two slots and follow the
               | instructions.
               | 
               | PS Do not bother with anything that requires clamping the
               | knife, etc. You'll use it once - it's just too much
               | hustle to setup and adjust these systems. You spend most
               | of the time unpacking, bolting it together and then
               | readjusting the knife instead of sharpening.
               | 
               | This is why rolling sharpeners work really well - fast
               | magnetic attachment, angles are pre-set.
        
               | antoviaque wrote:
               | The bottom of a ceramic mug works wonders.
        
             | krunck wrote:
             | I've got a Japanese stainless steel Damascus kitchen knife.
             | Sharp as hell. But you need to change your cutting
             | technique because the edge is more brittle than the mushy
             | steel knives we all know. That's not to say that mushy
             | steel knives don't have a place in the kitchen. Always use
             | the right tool for the job.
        
           | SideburnsOfDoom wrote:
           | > A cheap knife from ikea will not.
           | 
           | IKEA BRILJERA knives are the mid-range not cheapest ones. But
           | they are not expensive.
           | 
           | But they are made from (The Chinese version of) VG10 steel,
           | which will hold an edge very well, and is still stainless.
        
         | antoviaque wrote:
         | Indeed! I recently discovered how sharp and good Victorinox
         | blades are. Even their cheap 10 euros blades are unbelievably
         | sharp. To the point where you have to handle them with
         | additional care compared to other knives. The nonchalant way I
         | was handling the Ikea-type cooking knives got me a few deep
         | cuts.
        
           | jimnotgym wrote:
           | Same with 'Frosts of Mora' from Sweden. Cheap, and incredibly
           | sharp when new. 100 of those, or a hipster damascas blade???
        
           | klausa wrote:
           | The issue with cheap knives isn't how sharp you can get them
           | -- you can _anything_ razor sharp relatively easily.
           | 
           | Making a knife that _keeps_ sharp; and that will not
           | chip/shatter/handle won't disintegrate is the difficult part.
           | 
           | (You can also argue about blade geometries, how thin the
           | blade is etc for hours; but "can this be made sharp" is not a
           | problem with cheap/bad knives, generally.)
           | 
           | ---
           | 
           | My (very limited!) understanding of knife steels is that
           | "powdered steels" are not what you'll find in a random big
           | box store; but rather more expensive, "fancy" lines.
           | 
           | You don't have to spend $450 on hand-forged, artisanal blade
           | from Japan, but a $50 buck no-name is not going to be Buy-It-
           | For-Life powdered steel knife either.
        
             | antoviaque wrote:
             | With a no-name, for sure. And maybe you see the difference
             | after a long time? But after a year of unfettered abuse, my
             | $50 Victorinox kitchen knife is still as dangerously sharp
             | as new, and I have only sharpened it a couple of times.
        
       | perihelions wrote:
       | This reminds me of that almost-philosophical discussion about the
       | two types of consumers: the ones who carefully research, and then
       | buy, the very nicest forks and spoons available to buy on the
       | global spoon market, vs. those who agglomerate "whatever" in
       | their flatware drawer, and never think about it.
       | 
       | https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4755470 ( _" The Best
       | (dcurt.is)"_, 298 comments)
        
         | vl wrote:
         | I don't even know how realistically it's even possible to have
         | something of one kind in a functioning family kitchen: over the
         | years you'll have to replace or supplement the items, and most
         | brands don't manufacture same kinds of plates or utensils
         | continuously!
         | 
         | For silverware we don't even try - random sets from IKEA and
         | restaurant stores combined. For plates we use Macy's colorful
         | plates - which they seemed to sell forever, and they changed
         | the design slightly few years ago, so now they don't match
         | anymore!
        
           | marssaxman wrote:
           | You can often find replacements for whatever has broken via
           | the aptly named Replacements, Ltd:
           | 
           | https://www.replacements.com/
        
           | equestria wrote:
           | Most homes of people who are reasonably well-off - including
           | most people on HN - go through three distinct stages.
           | 
           | The first stage is right after you spend an insane amount of
           | money to buy the property. At that point, you want to
           | validate the investment, so you spend more on making it look
           | nice, but you're probably oblivious to many realities of
           | homeownership. So yeah, this is when people splurge on
           | matched kitchenware, beautiful cutting boards, "smart"
           | kitchen appliances, sleek-looking but impractical veneer /
           | plastic / glass furniture, etc.
           | 
           | The second stage is when you get kids or pets, and you start
           | losing the battle. You eventually throw in the towel,
           | accepting that there are going to be dings on the walls and
           | on stainless steel appliances, holes in window screens, and
           | veneer peeling off after the fifth juice spill accident.
           | 
           | The third stage is when the kids move out and you can
           | actually make the space look nice. Except now, you know that
           | there's some wisdom to old-fashioned solid wood furniture,
           | that cutting boards are for cutting, and so on. So your home
           | acquires more of an "old people" vibe.
        
             | MarkusWandel wrote:
             | Ha! Stainless steel appliances. The new (Bosch) dishwasher
             | gets nasty crap spilled down the front. No problem, it's
             | stainless steel so get out the scrubby sponge. Ha. The
             | stainless steel has a relatively delicate clearcoat on top
             | of it which is now messed up. Stainless steel for show
             | only, not for actual utility.
        
             | 01HNNWZ0MV43FF wrote:
             | I have 3 stages of flatware right now:
             | 
             | 1. Relatively nice stuff I bought for myself when I moved
             | into my apartment
             | 
             | 2. Cheap stuff I bought after a friend used a yellow-green
             | scrub sponge and scratched up all my nice stuff
             | 
             | 3. Nice stuff I bought for myself after the divorce (Except
             | that it's poorly designed, which makes me wish I'd bought
             | something a little more standard. They all have round
             | handles, which means the utensils try to spin in your
             | hands.)
        
               | foobarian wrote:
               | I can in no way shape or form stand "impostor utensils."
               | I throw them away ruthlessly (we sometimes acquire them
               | when guests bring over food or by accident from
               | vacations). When we run low I throw away the whole lot
               | and replace it. Same with plates, glasses, or socks.
               | Seriously, who has time to match up socks? Just buy 40
               | identical pairs and throw away the rest.
        
               | vl wrote:
               | This is exactly what I do with socks, and then I replace
               | the whole set.
               | 
               | But then it runs into (un)surprising problem: most brands
               | don't maintain their designs, so if you find something
               | you like, it's not going to be available when it's time
               | to replace entire set couple years later.
               | 
               | In the end I standardized on Blacksocks, which seem to
               | have same design forever, although they are more
               | expensive than I would like.
        
           | jimnotgym wrote:
           | You could buy a restaurant quality set of vitrified plates.
           | They survive being dropped. They also weigh a ton.
           | 
           | I got mine second hand
        
           | hnlmorg wrote:
           | If you buy IKEA then you can't. But if you buy from
           | independent specialists then you'll often find their ranges
           | will be available for decades.
           | 
           | But then you're paying a minimum PS120 for a set of cutlery
           | rather than PS12.
           | 
           | However the way I look at it is that good cutlery lasts a
           | lifetime.
        
             | perihelions wrote:
             | - _" good cutlery lasts a lifetime"_
             | 
             | I mean, modern ones are just solid chunks of Type 304
             | stainless steel; unless you are a family of Ridley Scott
             | xenomorphs I can't imagine why they wouldn't.
        
               | eric-hu wrote:
               | I hosted a party one time at an Airbnb I was staying at.
               | A friend invited his buddy who said he'd come and prepare
               | something. His buddy brought a can that needed opening
               | and when he found a can opener lacking, he took the
               | rental provided chef's knife and stabbed it into the can
               | to cut through the top.
               | 
               | The knife did survive, but I spent a good amount of time
               | bending the tip back to be mostly straight. I'm sure you
               | could destroy a knife by repeating such a practice.
        
               | IgorPartola wrote:
               | This is why every travel kit should include a Victorinox
               | with a can opener. This savagery must be avoided.
        
               | bee_rider wrote:
               | It's Airbnb, you are going to be charged a bunch of
               | nickel-and-dime fees anyway. Might as well enjoy the
               | expendable nature of everything, I guess.
        
               | hnlmorg wrote:
               | That's my point.
               | 
               | Cheap cutlery can often be thin or made from cheaper
               | steal that is more prone to rust.
               | 
               | Though granted you can also buy good quality cheaper
               | cutlery too (just last week I picked up a set of 16
               | pieces for PS16. Bargain)
        
             | vl wrote:
             | But they don't - they get lost. Our original sets are
             | diminished. So I see it as expenditure, and buy inexpensive
             | steel quality sets not worrying about them being matched.
             | It's insane to pay 120 pounds for a set. Are these items to
             | be used or to worry about them?
        
               | hnlmorg wrote:
               | Why would you worry about a solid lump of metal?
               | 
               | I'm also a little confused how lose so much cutlery. I
               | have a family too and I've never lost any. But Maybe it's
               | a bigger problem with teenagers and thus my kids are
               | still a couple of years too young?
        
           | 0cf8612b2e1e wrote:
           | Maybe restaurant supply stores? Likely more durable than
           | consumer stuff, and the manufacturer is likely to maintain a
           | product line for years. Restaurants are not going to be ok
           | with mismatched pieces.
        
           | IgorPartola wrote:
           | The way to avoid this is to do a tiny bit of research and
           | find a product line that is unlikely to change over time.
           | Fiestaware for example is basically unchanged in look and
           | feel and inexpensive so you can just buy their stuff and
           | replace your broken plates without introducing a mismatched
           | item.
           | 
           | Airstream is an amazing example of this in a premium product:
           | their trailers get new features but built around existing
           | designs. Parts from different decades just fit together. I
           | wish cars worked like this.
           | 
           | Furniture is tougher as both styles change and there isn't a
           | lot of manufacturers that make the same thing over and over.
           | 
           | My personal favorite: socks. I standardized on exactly one
           | style of socks that work for me for everything from fitness
           | to everyday wear. I have two dozen of them, replace the
           | oldest with a new six pack every year. I spend no time
           | matching socks. Yes I have one pair of dress socks for when I
           | wear a tux + two pairs of thick wool socks for when I am
           | doing winter things. Outside of that it's the same Under
           | Armor Resistors every day.
        
             | vl wrote:
             | Fiestaware from Macy's is exactly what I'm referring to in
             | the original post - they changed the design slightly on all
             | items few years ago and now plates don't match! We still
             | use them, of course, but it's funny that this was the core
             | proposition why we used this brand and they compromised it.
        
           | toast0 wrote:
           | If you start with lots of spares, it works for a pretty good
           | amount of time.
           | 
           | Let's say your family has 5 full time members and is timely
           | at doing dishes. 15 sets of flatware would probably be
           | plenty, but sometimes you have extra guests, so start with
           | 20-25.
           | 
           | If you lose or break items and get down to 15, and the set is
           | no longer available, get rid of what you have and get a new
           | set of 20-25.
           | 
           | Don't care also works fine.
        
         | matsemann wrote:
         | I've actually taken myself thinking along those lines today.
         | Our induction hob broke and no one will service it, so need to
         | buy a new one. The one that broke came with the apartment, and
         | I've been perfectly happy with it.
         | 
         | But now I have a choice. I can choose the hob myself! But it's
         | such a pressure! I'll probably not buy a new one for 5+
         | (hopefully 10) years, so it should be good! And not have
         | annoying little quirks I'll notice much more when it was me
         | making the decision. And what's the best bang for buck? Which
         | features do I need? So many choices, and I'd probably be happy
         | with whatever. But I've spent the last two evenings becoming an
         | expert in induction hobs..
        
           | foobarian wrote:
           | My advice, prepare to be disappointed whatever you buy. The
           | state of modern appliances is a dismal landscape of bare
           | minimum functionality and corner cutting.
           | 
           | We tried to avoid the garbage tide by thinking "you get what
           | you pay for" and paid a lot expecting a better outcome. Ha!
           | The Miele dishwasher we got didn't last 5 years. Turns out
           | the fancy German engineering does not help with reliability
           | but with creating overcomplicated designs with more moving
           | parts.
           | 
           | The d/w that the Miele replaced was a damaged floor model we
           | got for $100 from the orange store. It was so bare the bottom
           | had no cover (by design) and all the parts were exposed,
           | buttressed by some styrofoam and glued to a unibody plastic
           | tub. It literally looked like something out of an injection
           | molding machine with a bunch of parts randomly stuck to it.
           | And yet it lasted longer than the replacement. We're going
           | back to absolute cheapest and expecting to just replace every
           | few years and still come out ahead.
        
         | eterm wrote:
         | My takeaway from that post is: What happened to svbtle?
         | 
         | It was hot shit here for a little while, but why couldn't it
         | really break out like medium and substack did?
        
           | secstate wrote:
           | It's still chugging along. I suspect, but do not know, that
           | it went the middle road of solid growth with reasonable
           | return on investment as opposed to the pop-up monetization
           | shit hole that is Medium.
        
         | scotty79 wrote:
         | I'm sure there's middle ground. I have my favorite cheapish
         | Ikea line of cutlery and scorn any other.
        
         | Loic wrote:
         | For the people interested with the link. The blog post "The
         | Best" is talking about a silverware set which is good for a
         | museum, and only for a museum, it is impossible to eat with it.
        
         | beala wrote:
         | There is some research suggesting that maximizers, people who
         | insist on only the best, are less happy than satisficers,
         | people who stop when they've found something that's good
         | enough.[1] Perhaps it has something to do with how maximizers,
         | due to their exhaustive research, know all the shortcomings of
         | the thing they eventually choose. Anyway, this research is pre-
         | replication crisis, so who knows if it has stood up, but I've
         | found maximizer/satisficer to be a useful distinction.
         | 
         | 1:
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satisficing#In_personality_and...
        
           | switchbak wrote:
           | I've found that to be a liberating philosophy. But I also
           | have a few areas where I'm quite the opposite: but I'm very
           | deliberate in which things I choose to obsess over. I try to
           | remind myself to be conscious of the diminishing returns
           | there too - and try not to go _full audiophile_.
        
         | zxexz wrote:
         | I'm a fan of Moxie Marlinspike's response to that post, "The
         | Worst"[0].
         | 
         | [0] https://moxie.org/2012/11/27/the-worst.html
        
       | capitainenemo wrote:
       | I was curious about the "Gator Piss" treatment in the article so
       | I searched for it on a knife forum where someone shared a label:
       | https://www.knifedogs.com/threads/gator-piss.54340/
       | 
       | "Contains: Iron TriChloride (FeCh), Iron DiChloride (FeCh),
       | Hydrochloric Acid"
       | 
       | Plus a long list of warnings. Apparently it's for etching
       | damascus steel.
        
       | last_one_in wrote:
       | Great article! I'm a dev turned blacksmith, currently getting
       | back into bladesmithing. Working on my perfect kitchen knife.
       | Here's my first attempt (San mai, mild steel with recycled spring
       | steel edge) :
       | https://www.reddit.com/r/ukblade_blacksmiths/comments/1g5v6s...
        
       | BanazirGalbasi wrote:
       | It's a bit of a nitpick, but I hate the term "Damascus steel"
       | used in this context. This is pattern-welded steel, which was
       | first called Damascus by Bill Moran in 1973. It offers few (if
       | any) benefits that a solid billet of a single high-quality steel
       | wouldn't, and it offers none that the original Damascus was said
       | to have.
       | 
       | Damascus steel was originally a crucible wootz steel that came
       | from India or Iran and was sold to Europe through Damascus. The
       | alternating colors came from the grain structure of the steel,
       | not from different steel types layered together. As far as I am
       | aware, we still do not know the exact process used to create it,
       | although we have come close, and it's likely that modern CPM
       | (Crucible Particulate Metallurgy) steels surpass it due to more
       | consistent measurements for the components of the alloy.
       | 
       | I am only an amateur blacksmith, but I have spent the last 15
       | years dreaming and researching to prepare myself. Given that I
       | live in an apartment, I am limited to a small mobile forge that I
       | can wheel out to the complex's grill area where I am actually
       | allowed to have a fire, which limits the projects I can do due to
       | the forge size and temperature. Crucible steel is a dream one
       | day, but for now I just nitpick and try to tell people about the
       | original Damascus, which is (in my opinion) much more fascinating
       | than what gets the label today.
        
         | eric-hu wrote:
         | How did you get into amateur blacksmithing? How much did it
         | cost you to get started? Who do you make tools for?
         | 
         | Pardon all the questions but it's a topic I've been curious
         | about.
        
           | greggsy wrote:
           | You'll probably find that there is a forge near where you
           | live that does one- or two-day courses on blade smithing.
           | It's a pretty good birthday gift.
           | 
           | Watch any episode of Forged In Fire to get a feel for what's
           | involved from a hobbyists perspective. The second half of
           | each episode follows the finalists' progress on the challenge
           | in their own workshops - some have full-blown black smithing
           | businesses, but others are (literally) backyard operations.
        
           | BanazirGalbasi wrote:
           | I took a class hosted by a group affiliated with my local
           | renfest, which kind of kickstarted me to actually follow up
           | on all the research I did. Having experienced instructors
           | helped with the beginning learning curve, plus they pointed
           | out early pitfalls to avoid (like gripping the hammer too
           | tight). While useful, you definitely don't need to take a
           | class to get started. There's dozens of tutorials on making a
           | basic forge on Youtube - either coal-burning or propane - and
           | you can get started with something as basic as a sledgehammer
           | head for your anvil. Even a Harbor Freight cast iron anvil is
           | enough for a beginner, although they're more likely to crack.
           | 
           | My starting costs were reduced by gifts, and my dad giving me
           | an anvil he made with a piece of railroad several years ago.
           | A basic gas forge from Vevor is around $75, but you can make
           | your own small one from a coffee can, some refractory wool,
           | and a handheld propane torch.
           | 
           | Right now, I just make tools and trinkets for myself. I'm
           | _very_ amateur at the moment, I have more theoretical
           | knowledge than practical experience. Once I get comfortable,
           | I'll make more trinkets and tools for friends and family,
           | then maybe one day make things to sell.
        
         | greggsy wrote:
         | One of my own pet peeves in Forged In Fire was that every
         | contestant would submit Damascus (-style) blades for their
         | final showdowns. It just wasn't necessary and often just looked
         | trashy.
         | 
         | As a secondary nitpick, the term is perfectly acceptable for
         | the process commonly used today. As you've already mentioned -
         | the original process has been lost to time, so no one actually
         | makes it.
        
           | mmcdermott wrote:
           | > One of my own pet peeves in Forged In Fire was that every
           | contestant would submit Damascus (-style) blades for their
           | final showdowns. It just wasn't necessary and often just
           | looked trashy.
           | 
           | Agreed. There was a much smaller emphasis on Damascus steel
           | in early seasons. If you go back and rewatch you can see the
           | frequency pick up as they praised and required Damascus more
           | and more.
        
       | metalman wrote:
       | Laminate welding is easy. Keep everything clean, wire brush, use
       | flux, certain types of sand, borax or store bought never push
       | past a welding heat.....either way. Oh and even if the boss says
       | you can use anything you find out back, he does not actualy mean
       | anything, a horse shoe, fine, AND the coil spring for his car,not
       | so much. Just came across that knife the other day. Made a bit of
       | chain on the anvil I mostly fire weld for the look, as the tapers
       | are impossible to get any other way. If you want a related
       | subject, then fire brazing ox bells has as much lore and mystery
       | as knives, way, way more skill required, but again uses the
       | simplest of materials.
        
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