[HN Gopher] I designed a Dieter Rams-inspired iPhone dock
___________________________________________________________________
I designed a Dieter Rams-inspired iPhone dock
Author : farslan
Score : 1441 points
Date : 2024-09-23 07:51 UTC (1 days ago)
(HTM) web link (arslan.io)
(TXT) w3m dump (arslan.io)
| jhbruhn wrote:
| I would love to get my hands on the CAD-Files to fit my Pixel 9
| Pro to this case.
|
| Also, has anyone found a nice solution for a "Standby Mode"
| Equivalent for Android? I tried a Daydream-Screensaver, but with
| that my phone get really hot and it also was very bright.
| bdcravens wrote:
| Someone has already made one based on the original design
|
| https://makerworld.com/en/models/637572
| duxup wrote:
| Very cool.
|
| >I'm still astonished by what you can do with CAD software and a
| 3D printer at home.
|
| I really want to get into 3D printing, for neat hacks like this,
| but also because I've been fiddling with arduino and similar and
| find it difficult to really find good parts to mount them on,
| attach servos too and so on. Would be nice to just be able to
| print something that I know will fit even just for prototyping.
|
| Anyone have a good suggestion for a 3D printer that is good
| quality, will last a while, and beginner friendly?
| jhbruhn wrote:
| The BambuLab A1 mini is the obvious choice here. Incredible
| value for the money and IMO quite beginner friendly.
|
| The alternative choice would be the Prusa Mini, although the
| BambuLab has higher quality and more features than the Prusa.
| kapep wrote:
| For functional prints I would go with the Bambu Lab A1
| instead of the A1 mini because of the larger build plate.
| Tepix wrote:
| I heard that Bambu Labs is violating open source licenses,
| thus stealing from Prusa in particular.
| iancmceachern wrote:
| Not really.
|
| They forked a slicer, which wasn't against the license but
| not terribly nice either.
|
| The big thing now is the patent lawsuit with Stratasys
|
| None of these things matter for the average user. For the
| average user the Bambu products are the ones to buy. Easy
| button for 3d printing.
| fy20 wrote:
| PrusaSlicer itself was a fork of the open source Slic3r,
| and also received critism when it was first announced.
| opencl wrote:
| I've heard people claim this but never seen any actual
| evidence of license violations.
|
| Everything seems perfectly in order with both the Linux-
| based firmware on the X1C[0] and their slicer[1] which is a
| fork of Prusaslicer.
|
| [0] https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/open-
| source-s...
|
| [1] https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio
| asveikau wrote:
| One criticism of Bambu that I've heard is that sending
| prints over the network requires the public internet, which
| is not true with Prusa, which can do local-only network
| printing.
| aaronblohowiak wrote:
| this is not true. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-
| sharing/enable-lan-mo...
| asveikau wrote:
| Is that relatively new? Maybe my info is out of date?
|
| Maybe last year people were saying that Bambu intercepts
| your models, that it's not private.
|
| As I google, they say that your camera feed also goes to
| the public internet.
| farslan wrote:
| I agree. I have the X1C, however the A1 is as good as the X1C
| (unless you go into more advanced stuff like ABS/ASA or want
| to print large objects)
| pbronez wrote:
| I bought the Prusa Mini+ kit. It was educational, but a few
| months later I upgraded to a Bambu Lab X1C. It's a much more
| expensive machine, but the print quality and consistency are
| worth it.
|
| With the Mini, I was hesitant to try things because I was
| afraid the prints would fail and I'd spend forever
| calibrating things. With the X1C, I can crank out prototype
| iterations as fast as I can design them.
| timc3 wrote:
| Bambu labs. Pick your price point. I got one a couple of months
| ago and it's been great and so far has worked without hassle.
| kapep wrote:
| I just got a Bambu Lab A1 (Combo with AMS lite, which I can
| also recommend) and am really impressed how smooth and well
| designed everything is. They really put a lot thought even
| into how the product is packaged and assembled. The few parts
| that you need to assembly yourself are all color coded (but
| after installing the color coding is hidden).
|
| With my good old Ender 3, almost every print required
| tinkering with settings, otherwise print quality was bad or
| prints straight up failed. It was great for learning about 3d
| printing but with the A1 I can just print everything in much
| better quality without worrying about any settings.
| swah wrote:
| I only noticed recently that people are now printing in
| multiple colors (materials?) in one go - is that a new thing?
| Maybe something this manufacturer integrated?
| dole wrote:
| Bambu Labs has the AMS, Automatic Material System that sits
| on top of the printers and makes multicolor printing pretty
| easy, holds 4 colors but you can link units together for up
| to 16. There's other companies that provide other multi-
| color solutions for other printers but Bambu's P1 and X1
| series with the AMS really took off in the last 2 years.
| post-it wrote:
| I've had a very good experience with the Sovol SV06.
|
| It was around CA$300 when I bought it a year ago. I'm
| considering getting a second one.
| teamonkey wrote:
| I've also had a good experience with my SV06, though if I
| were buying a new printer to replace it now I'd probably pick
| a Bambu.
|
| It does require some tinkering and few minor upgrades (nylock
| mod for bed levelling, oldham couplers for Z-wobble) to get
| good results as well as plenty of profile tuning, though now
| I'm there it's been rock-solid.
| voidUpdate wrote:
| I got myself a Ender 3 V3 SE for christmas, and it has served
| me very well once I got used to it, especially once I hooked it
| up to a pi running octoprint. However, I've heard that the
| Bambu printers are generally the most "plug and play" you can
| get
| criddell wrote:
| I have an Ender printer as well and probably wouldn't
| recommend it. IMHO, the Bambu printers are a much better
| value.
|
| The exception might be if 3d printing itself is your hobby
| and you enjoy tinkering endlessly, upgrading parts, tramming,
| setting esteps, etc...
| edm0nd wrote:
| Auto leveling printers alone are a godsend. Having to
| manually level my Ender 3 got to be a true pain but it sure
| did teach me a lot as a beginner!
| mbreese wrote:
| Adding the autoleveling probe and firmware made my Ender
| 3 usable. I still try to make sure the bed is somewhat
| level, but I agree that this is a must-have feature.
| voidUpdate wrote:
| My ender 3 has autolevelling build in, that might be part
| of the new V3 stuff. I thought it might be giving bad
| results at one point, but it turned out to be an
| incorrect temperature setting
| organsnyder wrote:
| I started with a Prusa Mini. It's a reliable workhorse.
|
| Bambu Lab is extremely popular right now, and looks to be very
| easy to use.
| edm0nd wrote:
| If price is no option, Bambu labs is the way to go.
|
| If you are tryna get a 3d printer on a budget, any of the
| Creality Enders, like the Ender 3 or the CR-6 MAX are good
| starting points within the ~$200 range.
| jhbruhn wrote:
| Since the BambuLab A1 series was released, I consider this
| highly outdated information.
| edm0nd wrote:
| Looks like the A1 is $489.00-$559.00. A $170-$200 3d
| Creality printer still fits into a different category and
| pricepoint imo for beginners on a budget.
| Tepix wrote:
| But there's also the A1 mini. A volume of 180x180x180mm3
| is not bad.
| kapep wrote:
| You can get a Bambu Lab A1 mini for 205 EUR. Cheapest
| Bambu Lab A1 I see is 345 EUR.
| Jaepa wrote:
| The A1 is presently $339.00. The price you cited is for
| the combo including the AMS, which allows for multi-
| filament printing.
|
| source: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/a1?variant
| =4158335519...
| wheatgreaser wrote:
| ender 3 is super fun. i couldnt grt the levelling on my
| printer quite right tho :(
| dwayne_dibley wrote:
| Bambu Labs A1 - not had it long, but for less that PS300 it's
| unbelievable, easily matching quality with the prusas on the
| type of stuff I'm printing.
| Tepix wrote:
| The Bambu Labs A1 Mini is less than PS300, the A1 is more
| expensive.
| Jaepa wrote:
| A1 is presently PS289.00 GBP
| IanCal wrote:
| They might be looking at things with the AMS thing that
| lets you do multiple colours. Mini with that is about
| PS300.
|
| Without that, the mini is PS169 and the A1 is PS289 as
| you say.
| mauvehaus wrote:
| If you aren't sure you're going to pursue this for the long
| run, think about joining a makerspace/hackerspace first and
| trying out theirs. On the downside, many people with varying
| degrees of skill have used the machine and it may not be
| factory fresh in performance. On the upside, given a vibrant
| makerspace, there's somebody there who's responsible for upkeep
| and can help you over some of the bumps in the road.
| yonatan8070 wrote:
| My local makerspace is very active, and some very
| knowledgeable people who maintain the printers. But even with
| the limited amount of people permitted to use the printers,
| they still fail way sooner than they otherwise would at the
| hands of a single, experienced operator.
| para_parolu wrote:
| I just get bambulab p1s a few weeks ago. My goal was to find
| "iphone of 3d printers". It is still not there but it's as
| close to "press a button to print" as possible. So far I'm
| pretty happy with the device and software.
| nsxwolf wrote:
| I love my Creality Ender 3, I was intimidated by the assembly
| process but it went fine and I can't believe how good it is.
| And it cost peanuts.
|
| Edit: downvoted for liking a printer
| mft_ wrote:
| If you want something _that just prints_ , and want to spend
| absolutely no time fettling or upgrading the printer, then
| either Prusa (which I can speak to) or Bambu. Bambu has leapt
| ahead of Prusa in terms of features, though. They're more
| expensive than some competition, but you're paying for the
| simplicity.
| Brian_K_White wrote:
| I used to joke that my favorite tv show was just spinning a
| model around and around that I was working on in freecad or
| kicad or openscad. It's honestly still my favorite tv show.
| mbreese wrote:
| I have a cheap Ender 3. I've had it for about 5 years and it's
| been just fine. I did do a few upgrades along the way that
| helped a lot (bed leveling probe l, direct drive extruder, and
| second z axis screw drive). Figuring out how to add those was
| part of the fun.
|
| If you wanted something more production/out of the box ready,
| you can certainly find it. But it doesn't have to be a big
| initial investment. You can start small and then upgrade as you
| go.
| __jonas wrote:
| Bambu is surely the best option if you have the money to spend,
| but I wanted a budget option, so I got a used Elegoo Neptune 3
| Pro for 150EUR and I'm extremely happy with it.
|
| I'm shocked by how well the prints come out and how little
| fiddling it requires.
|
| I've set it up with Klipper now with an old mini PC I had
| around and a Playstation 3 Eye camera, feels nice to put old
| hardware to use and controlling / monitoring prints remotely is
| neat.
| asadm wrote:
| A1 mini, it's sitting on my desk right now (is very small) and
| I love it!
| romanhn wrote:
| Another +1 for Bambu. Recently replaced an older Ender 3 with
| P1S and it's been a breath of fresh air. Ender was much cheaper
| but the many, many hours I spent on tweaking both the software
| and hardware... I was many times ready to give up on the whole
| thing.
| delichon wrote:
| Same. I struggled and struggled to print things on a two year
| old Qidi that just worked on a Bambu Labs X1. The Bambu has
| limits but they are in a very different place. The pace of
| development in this area is wild. Patent law may be slamming
| on the brakes though.
| dv35z wrote:
| I suggest do a search for "makerspace" in your area - They can
| help you build the project & you can learn how to do it, and
| you might meet some great friends in the process.
| bdcravens wrote:
| +1 to all of the recommendations for anything by Bambu Lab.
| It's as close to plug and play as you'll get. (Personally I
| feel the P1S with the AMS combo is the best value to price, but
| you really can't go wrong with any of them)
| dgroshev wrote:
| Going against the consensus, I'd recommend a Prusa MK4S
| instead. It'll likely serve you much longer and will achieve
| better dimensional precision and slightly better quality at the
| same speed.
|
| Be warned though, the printing part is just a tiny step in the
| rabbit hole. Soon enough you'll be lamenting the state of CAD,
| yearning for class A surfacing in your projects, and trying to
| decide between diving into Rhino/Grasshopper or mastering
| SOLIDWORKS.
| piyuv wrote:
| How do you take the phone out? Push the camera bump from its
| back?
|
| Also, nice design, but the word "inspired" is doing some heavy
| lifting.
| Jeremy1026 wrote:
| It looks like there are cutouts in both top corners in the
| model. One for the camera, and one (likely) to push the phone
| out.
| farslan wrote:
| Actually, both are used for pushing out. I made it so both
| left and right-handed people can use it. The cameras are
| already taken into consideration, and you can use them on
| both horizontal sides.
| farslan wrote:
| OP here, check this photo out:
| https://x.com/fatih/status/1836691756965933084
|
| Because there is a tray, you don't need any mechanism to remove
| it. It's just your fingers and hands.
| piyuv wrote:
| Thanks.
|
| On an unrelated note, what happened to significantly
| decreasing your contributions to X?
|
| https://arslan.io/2024/04/07/my-feelings-about-x-formerly-
| tw...
| dewey wrote:
| > I might post occasionally, which will probably be a link
| to my blog post or a few honest questions/insights. I'm not
| leaving, of course, but I won't be active there anymore.
| farslan wrote:
| Yeap, I was more active, but I only posted about my work
| there. I rarely post other personal things. I would post
| a lot more in the past.
| andrewmcwatters wrote:
| I remember when Apple sold standing docks with their iPods. In
| another world, this would have easily been an Apple accessory.
| And for the same reason the author built it.
| paxys wrote:
| The most impressive part of this is the 3D print itself. Does
| anyone know what printer they are using? I wish mine came out
| half this good.
| ry4nolson wrote:
| in the video, the guy is using a bambu a1 mini. i personally
| have a bambu a1 (full size) and the prints are nearly perfect
| every time.
| farslan wrote:
| OP here. I use a Bambulab X1 Carbon.
| delichon wrote:
| > This particular design stuck with me. Initially I was spectical
| about it, but the more I looked at it, the more I loved.
|
| Spectical sounds like an improvement over skeptical since it
| implies that you keep looking and don't just dismiss. If this was
| a typo we should consider it a coinage and run with it.
| xnx wrote:
| Alternately: Spectical - Specification skepticism. Doubts based
| on technical specifications that may later be assuaged by real
| world performance. "I was spectical of the Nintendo Switch
| because it had nine year old CPU, but it still delivered games
| that were more fun than the Xbox X or PS5."
| matanyall wrote:
| Lol, I love it
| latexr wrote:
| I understood your parent comment as thinking of it in terms
| of "spectacles" (i.e. glasses) rather than "specification".
| Emphasis mine:
|
| > it implies that you _keep looking_
|
| As in "On first glance I was spectical the chair could hold
| enough weight, but the more I looked the more I noticed
| little details that improved its strength".
| farslan wrote:
| Haha, it was a typo. I fixed it now :)
| delichon wrote:
| There were two great mashups in this article. Now sadly just
| one.
| garyrob wrote:
| "Spectical sounds like an improvement over skeptical since it
| implies that you keep looking and don't just dismiss. If this
| was a typo we should consider a coinage and run with it."
|
| I love it! I seriously may use it.
| scosman wrote:
| Beautiful work.
| ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
| That looks very cool!
|
| Thanks for sharing it.
|
| I have no idea if there might be trademark/copyright issues, if
| you tried marketing it, though.
| farslan wrote:
| It's a brand new product, hence I think there is no trademark
| involved here.
| ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
| Well...there are some kinds of trademarks, especially in the
| design world, that can be tricky.
|
| For example, I believe that Harley-Davidson has trademarked
| their exhaust sound, and I think that Google, Ferrari and
| McLaren have trademarked colors.
| farslan wrote:
| TIL, I didn't know about it.
| buibuibui wrote:
| 3 Weeks ago Scott Yu-Jan posted his version of the iPhone Stand
| By Dock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3nWw8qSYgk There is a
| nifty mechanism to take the iPhone out. Model:
| https://makerworld.com/en/models/615378#profileId-538769
| dewey wrote:
| This video is embedded in the article and also mentioned.
| lobsterthief wrote:
| Looks amazing! Wish there was a version for the 14 Pro Max.
| farslan wrote:
| I'm working on a `Max` version, because a lot of my friends are
| asking for one.
| griffey wrote:
| That's great news. I will keep an eye out and would happily
| throw a few bucks your way for a 16 pro max version.
| uoflcards22 wrote:
| I would also throw money at a 14 pro max and 15 pro max
| version.
| racl101 wrote:
| Neato.
| farslan wrote:
| OP here. Let me know if you have any questions, and I'll be happy
| to answer them.
| akie wrote:
| I mean I just want to buy it. Give me a link and I pay you
| money.
| farslan wrote:
| Thanks a lot for your support. A friend and I looked into the
| economics, but the lowest company willing to print was around
| $63. If you know of any services that provide 3D printing, I
| am happy to look into it.
| HorizonXP wrote:
| What about these guys?
|
| https://www.slant3d.com
| farslan wrote:
| I believe they want a minimum order of $1000 and only
| allow me to print it in a single color. Honestly,
| providing a physical good is a whole other set of issues
| with which I have no experience at all.
| gadders wrote:
| Just wait 3 months and you'll see someone selling it on
| Ali Express :-)
| abtinf wrote:
| Slant looked at Scott's design and suggested some
| changes. You might find it interesting.
| https://youtu.be/b1RBo7f0Zb0
| boustrophedon wrote:
| I haven't downloaded your model but
| https://www.i-solids.com/ (US-based, FDM and MJF) and
| https://www.weerg.com/ (Italy, mostly MJF ) will both do
| instant quotes and you might get reasonable prices from
| them at scale. PCBWay and JLCPCB in China will also do 3d
| printing at reasonable volume, if you want to get an idea
| of a baseline price.
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you, I'll look into it.
| briandoll wrote:
| I was quoted $73.19 from I-solids, just FYI
| doublerebel wrote:
| Competing products such as the Nomad stand, Zen, Courant
| tray are $100-140. I happily paid for each.
|
| The design and high quality materials were worth it to me
| for the same reasons you wanted this design -- it is
| functional art and doesn't look out of place next to my
| other quality items I see and use daily.
|
| I could see paying $120 for this dock. I bet this is the
| kind of thing that would succeed on Kickstarter. Sure, I
| could print and assemble it myself but that would cost me
| more than $120 in parts and labor.
| azinman2 wrote:
| Similar. Would be nice for a max version as well.
|
| What about cases on your phone? I assume you need to remove
| it first?
| kurthr wrote:
| It looked like his design incorporated space for a standard
| case. Actually, without a case I think there might be an
| interesting edge detail. That wouldn't affect
| functionality, and look cool too!
| danielktdoranie wrote:
| Personally, I don't use a case on my iPhone 14. I pay
| Apple every month for Apple Care +. If I break it Apple
| fixes or replaces it for free
| rootusrootus wrote:
| I use a case for grip, not for the protection it
| provides. I'd be dropping this slippery device pretty
| often otherwise. I haven't been able to go case-less
| since the days of the iPhone 4.
|
| > Apple fixes or replaces it for free
|
| Where? In the US they charge $29 and up for repair with
| AppleCare+. $29 for the screen, $29 more if you damage
| the glass on the back too. $99 if you damage the camera
| or anything else that requires replacing the phone
| altogether.
| rupi wrote:
| Came here to say this. Will happily pay for it.
| zymhan wrote:
| That's kind of the opposite of the Hacker ethos
| dymk wrote:
| Getting the job done is the hacker ethos. Sometimes that
| means buying a solution instead of spending a bunch of time
| (and money) building it.
| szundi wrote:
| Not sure about this, I would call this manager ethos and
| outsourcing
| fragmede wrote:
| that's a weird notion of hacker purity. did you write
| your own kernel and compiler and web browser, on your own
| CPU that you built from transistors you made in your
| parents garage? and then connected to an Internet of your
| own creation? or did you "outsource" some part of that
| process to others?
| samatman wrote:
| Nah.
|
| Building your own, idk, mechanical keyboard? Hackerish
| thing to do, sure. But buying someone else's cool design is
| not against "the ethos", that's a silly thing to say.
| Supporting artisans in their craft is Good, actually, I
| don't see anything about this design which make it
| different that way.
| akie wrote:
| I don't have a 3D printer and I unfortunately don't have
| the time.
| szundi wrote:
| Always good to know
| randmeerkat wrote:
| > That's kind of the opposite of the Hacker ethos
|
| HN revolves around YComb and finding ideas that make great
| products. Someone has come up with a brilliant solution and
| someone else is saying they want to buy it. HN isn't about
| "hacker" purity, it's about thinking through cool ideas and
| maybe finding a startup along the way.
| freeplay wrote:
| I've used craftcloud for these types of one offs before. It's
| a pretty great service in my experience.
|
| If you go that route, you can use my referral code
| REFOUSPW7TK for 10% off. Totally optional.
|
| https://craftcloud3d.com/
| Darthy wrote:
| It looks beautiful, thanks for the write-up!
|
| Question: Most docks have ample space around the phone to grip
| it and remove it from the dock easily. Your design encases the
| phone on every side. How do you get the phone out in the
| morning?
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you. Check this tweet out:
| https://x.com/fatih/status/1836691756965933084
|
| There are two holes on both sides (for both left- and right-
| handed people). All you do is push slightly, and it comes
| out.
|
| You're the third person asking this, so I'll add a section
| about it to the blog post. Thank you again.
| interpol_p wrote:
| There is a modification to this design that adds a button to
| the top to pop out the phone:
| https://www.yankodesign.com/2024/09/13/dieter-rams-
| inspired-...
| bredren wrote:
| Your entry doesn't discuss the finishing step between printing
| and use.
|
| My experience has been that a great deal of sanding and other
| tool use can be needed to get to smooth results.
|
| Did you go through a finishing process after printing to get to
| the smooth results you show here?
| farslan wrote:
| There are none? All the photos are straight from my Bambulab
| X1C. I used eSun PLA+. No special treatment was done.
| bredren wrote:
| That's awesome.
| MattGrommes wrote:
| I've also been shocked at how little post-processing
| prints off a Bambu printer need. They're pretty amazing
| machines, right out of the box.
| bambax wrote:
| Wow. That's amazing. Is this also true for A1/mini?
| asadalt wrote:
| yes!
| bdcravens wrote:
| To build atop of OP's response, the Bambu Lab line of
| printers are much higher quality than some older printers. I
| have 3 different ones, and I also just pull them off the
| build plate and begin using them.
|
| Many modern printers also give similar results, but may
| require a bit of tuning. Also it's as much about the settings
| in your slicer software, and most current ones have evolved
| to have great defaults and are easily tweaked.
| mstade wrote:
| I'm potentially in the market for a 3d printer for our
| office. Mostly for one offs and some prototyping, and we
| don't necessarily _need_ one but more a wouldn 't-it-be-
| nice kinda thing. The Bambu Lab printers look like they
| could fit our needs/wants really well, but I'd love to do a
| bit of compare and contrast before placing an order. Are
| there any buyer's guides out there you would recommend for
| hobbyists such as us?
| szundi wrote:
| Just buy an A1 with the AMS, cheap as hell, other
| people's blabla is hardly applicable to you. It is like
| just more than 400 usd.
| double0jimb0 wrote:
| Forum comments have been the best resource for me.
| (Followed by joining the printer's users' Facebook group
| to see what sort of issues are most common).
|
| The top SEO'd buyers guide websites are pretty useless in
| my experience.
|
| That said, having owned a dozen different printers for my
| own business's prototyping work, the Bambu labs are truly
| fantastic. I retired 3 ultimaker S7s for 2 X1 Carbons and
| haven't looked back. The Bambu labs legitimately print
| 3-4x faster and have as good if not better surface
| finish. AMS system is ingenious. Only thing I did was x-y
| squareness/skew compensation so both printers make the
| same sized parts (the printers aren't perfectly square
| from the factory). There are guides on how to use M1005
| gcode command.
| stavros wrote:
| Just buy a Bambu. You won't regret it. I bought one after
| ten years of printing on more OSS designs, and I wish I'd
| gotten one sooner.
|
| If your hobby is 3D printing, get a Bambu. If it's 3D
| printers, get anything else.
| btbuildem wrote:
| How does it compare with the recent Prusas?
| valianteffort wrote:
| I think prusa have been resting on their laurels and
| fallen very far behind. Bambu sort of raised the bar with
| their printers and the price points they are offered at.
| They took much of the tinkering out of the equation that
| filtered most people from producing quality prints.
|
| If you're working with more exotic or engineering
| materials, it can still require a bit of work to dial in.
| But the most common like PLA, ABS, PETG will print
| without issue.
| 2muchcoffeeman wrote:
| I bought a Prusa MK3 as a kit years ago and it worked
| flawlessly. Several of the higher end printers pretty
| much work right out of the box.
|
| Bambu does all that and more for less money. Hard to
| beat.
| 2muchcoffeeman wrote:
| There is no reason to get a Prusa as a hobbyist
| unfortunately, unless you value open source hardware.
|
| The Prusa XL may still be worth it if you need that sort
| of thing.
| stavros wrote:
| That's very unfortunate, as I do value open source
| hardware. However, I value my time more, and Prusa have
| become complacent and released incremental updates (most
| of their printers aren't even CoreXY), so Bambu turned up
| and are eating Prusa's lunch.
| dgroshev wrote:
| I don't think there's much inherent value in the CoreXY
| geometry. MK4S seems to outperform everything Bambu has
| both on speed and on quality (especially on overhangs and
| dimensional precision) despite being a bed slinger.
|
| On the other hand, continuing the bed slinger line let
| Prusa provide an upgrade path for existing printers.
| jwr wrote:
| I have a Prusa i3 MK3S+, used it for years, a recent
| Prusa XL, a Bambu X1C and a Bambu A1 mini. I would pick a
| Bambu any day, except if you need large prints and need
| the XL's area/volume. Otherwise the Bambu printers are
| quite simply better on every possible metric.
| dgroshev wrote:
| In short:
|
| - print quality and speed is similar (new MK4S seems to
| be a bit better)
|
| - Bambu's design life is much shorter (Prusas are fully
| repairable with parts stocked in the online shop, and
| every new version release includes upgrade kits for old
| models)
|
| - the amount of effort/babysitting is similar
|
| - reliability seems higher on Prusa's side (no wonder,
| given that they print parts of the printer on the
| printers themselves on industrial scale)
|
| Also, if this matters to you, Bambu behaviour (like
| patenting opensource designs they didn't invent [1] and
| hostile competitive intelligence [2]) seems quite
| problematic.
|
| [1]: https://www.mdpi.com/2411-5134/8/6/141
|
| [2]:
| https://twitter.com/josefprusa/status/1706713274455081120
| gaudystead wrote:
| +1 for BambuLab printers. I have an X1C and finally I can
| work _with_ the printer, not work _on_ the printer. Get
| an X1E if you have special materials you want to print
| and /or want an entirely hardwired connection to the
| printer from the network.
| fragmede wrote:
| > I can work with the printer, not work on the printer.
|
| That's what sold me on getting my Bambu, and it's totally
| true. No need to spend hours carefully aligning and
| calibrating things.
| UniverseHacker wrote:
| Even the cheapest 3D printers have generally gotten really
| good recently... I have a new (lower end) Creality Ender V3
| SE printer, and it makes perfectly clean prints like this
| out of the box if you use their own brand of filament and
| settings they've tuned for it- and it will do so on any new
| filament if you take the time to figure out the right
| settings.
| AriedK wrote:
| On the finishing: "Of course because I 3D Printed it with a
| PLA filamanet, it's not as shiny and glossy compared to
| actuall electronic devices. People use acetone and various
| solutions to make it shiny."
|
| The acetone (vapour) approach only works on ABS and is pretty
| nasty. For PLA your best bet is sanding. You could add some
| putty to make it a bit easier and get better results. You
| will then also need to paint it. All in all if the print
| quality is good enough best stick with that.
| stavros wrote:
| I have a Bambu P1S, and I'm fairly sure the prints would
| look worse after sanding than before. I just use them all
| as they are, straight out of the printer, and they always
| look amazing.
| SOLAR_FIELDS wrote:
| The primary thing people complain about is the aesthetics
| of the FDM print lines. They give the appearance of a
| hobbyist look. Sanding and finishing is one way to
| alleviate that. I bet PLA doesn't sand amazing since it's
| mostly just sugar but PETG sands reasonably fine. I have
| sanded PETG and finished with spar urethane/polyurethane
| for commercial products to give them a nice professional
| glossy sheen with no print lines. I mentioned in a
| sibling comment XTC-3D as another option which is
| probably the best hobbyist product for this, but it's
| kind of a pain to work with and it's a little expensive.
| So not great for commercial use. For home use though it's
| totally fine and indeed usually gives better results than
| the urethanes mentioned above due to lack of yellowing
| and being thicker and better at filling in the lines and
| giving a smoother appearance. People could honestly
| probably just use that product without sanding and be
| mostly happy with it because it does a good job of hiding
| the FDM lines even without sanding
| larrywright wrote:
| In my experience matte filaments hide the layer lines
| much better. Between that and the overall quality of
| recent printers like the Bambu or the Prusa Mk4, I don't
| find the need to do any post processing.
| SOLAR_FIELDS wrote:
| I do want to challenge you on this. I don't have evidence
| matte filaments are better. I would love to see an
| example of these filaments outperforming. I believe it is
| true, but would love to see a demonstration!
| tomooot wrote:
| Performance wise, most matte filaments are more brittle
| and have worse layer adhesion due to the matting pigment,
| but do a good job at hiding lines as the reduction in
| specular highlights reduce the visibility of them.
| Another good trick is fuzzy skin setting with both length
| and depth settings at 0.4x-0.8x layer height.
| larrywright wrote:
| It isn't really that they're better as filaments, it's
| just that the matte nature makes them less reflective and
| therefore you don't see the layer lines as much.
| SOLAR_FIELDS wrote:
| That makes sense thank you for your response
| washadjeffmad wrote:
| We run one of the largest print farms in North America.
| Reflecting parent's sentiment, BambuLabs' P1/X1 series
| are capable of substantially finer layer height and
| consistency (0.08mm), with SLA-quality results. We dumped
| all of our FormLabs because of it.
|
| We don't sand any PLA, anymore. If we need to control the
| surface texture, it's largely a function of the qualities
| of the filament and print speed.
| SOLAR_FIELDS wrote:
| Great to hear. I have a resin printer at home and almost
| never use it because it's such a messy, sketchy (in terms
| of chemicals) pain to deal with. The fact that FDM is
| good enough now for a lot of aesthetics use cases is
| great. I'll probably still have to reach for the resin
| printer for high pressure use cases (like injection
| molds) but the fact that FDM can do more than before and
| make commercial grade parts is really good news
| washadjeffmad wrote:
| The physical characteristics of the print surface also
| change at lower layer height with high infill. I wonder
| if that might be good for your use case.
|
| I'm mentioning it because we were surprised how easily
| our molds separated when we moved to Bambu and didn't
| understand why. It turned out that the combination of the
| layer height and high print speed that gave the prints
| their smooth, matte finish with standard PLA also made
| them functionally non-stick.
|
| We also discovered they're also at least tough enough for
| a car to drive over, which may have just been because of
| the thickness. I also sometimes print nylon and
| polycarbonate automotive parts for a mechanic which seem
| to have excellent rigidity and durability.
| dlehman wrote:
| What PLA filament brand(s) do you recommend, on Bambu?
| washadjeffmad wrote:
| Most are viable, but Bambu filament really takes all
| guesswork out of the process.
|
| We do most of our bulk purchasing through MatterHackers,
| but I buy my own filament through the Bambu store.
| double0jimb0 wrote:
| FormLabs really shit the bed didn't they, Form2 raised
| the bar, Form3 a total bust, jury seems still to be out
| on Form4.
| SOLAR_FIELDS wrote:
| XTC 3D is expensive for manufacturing but is really good
| for these hobbyist projects. It's really too pricey to do
| actual production runs with but the results are great if
| you're just making something for yourself at home.
|
| If you're using a color that already has a decent amount of
| yellow in it or don't mind the yellowing polyurethane and
| spar-urethane are also decent finishing options. They won't
| work on colors like white though, obviously. Even grey is
| probably going to see a little too much yellowing from
| those.
| HeWhoLurksLate wrote:
| For PPE: an effective respirator is not that expensive,
| should be wearing them and safety glasses for sanding as
| well. Only extra PPE you _really_ need for acetone
| smoothing is some nitrile / latex gloves, and those are
| fairly standard in shop / art environments anywho.
|
| Also, MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, apparently smooths PLA out
| quite well too, but if you can print in ABS I would already
| be doing that for finished products anywho.
| anymouse123456 wrote:
| Safety tip for new players.
|
| MEK is incredibly strong and useful, but it is also nasty
| stuff[0].
|
| Please read the MSDS[1] and handle with appropriate PPE.
|
| [0] https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cf
| cfr/CFR...
|
| [1] https://www.fishersci.com/store/msds?partNumber=M2094
| &produc...
| daemoens wrote:
| Could you rescale the model to fit an iPhone 13 Mini?
| farslan wrote:
| Rescaling usually doesn't work well because the MagSafe
| portion is static between all sizes. Hence, every custom
| sizing needs a custom re-design.
| schiffern wrote:
| In theory, with parametric design (eg OpenSCAD, Autodesk
| Inventor, etc) a model could allow you to enter the phone
| dimensions and it automatically re-calculates the correct
| geometry.
|
| In practice, experience says doing this (in a robust way)
| is a lot harder than it sounds. ;)
|
| Thanks, very nice design and write-up.
| stavros wrote:
| It's not really that much harder, as long as you know
| which dimensions you want to be variable from the start.
| Going back and changing everything after the fact is a
| massive pain.
| notpushkin wrote:
| I've started to put something together in OpenSCAD:
| https://u.ale.sh/braunscadv1.png
|
| I'll share the source once it's a bit less painful to
| look at (right now everything is a bunch of copy-pasted
| spaghetti code :')
| cianmm wrote:
| I am extremely interested in this. I've got a new iPhone
| 16 and I'd love to use it in its case with this stand.
| pbreit wrote:
| I wonder if there's a version that's more of a shelf so
| could accommodate (m)any sized phones and with/without
| cases?
| SystemOut wrote:
| I think it's doable with a parametric design in Fusion but it
| is definitely more work up-front or re-work after you have a
| working version. Getting a well parameterized and set of
| constrained sketches can be a time consuming process since I
| don't do it every day. It's probably the part I've struggled
| with the most in making 3D printable designs (I'm not OP but
| design cosplay props for my kids) since I don't always know
| what I want the final dimensions to be.
| zwily wrote:
| And a parametric design requires you to buy the commercial
| Fusion license.
| marcins wrote:
| No it doesn't, unless you mean some more advanced
| parametric features that just the basic parameter driven
| modelling.
| frantathefranta wrote:
| I might upgrade soon anyway but is there something preventing
| iPhone 13 Pro to not fit? I'm not aware of any changes between
| that one and 14, 15 and 16.
| farslan wrote:
| Actually probably not. Does it have the same size as the 14
| Pro ? If it's the same you can use it with no issues. All the
| orange photos you see are from an 14 Pro, so it should work
| nicely.
| frantathefranta wrote:
| I looked into it and supposedly 14 Pro is 0.8 mm taller and
| 0.2 mm thicker.
| farslan wrote:
| You should be fine, go for it :)
| bigiain wrote:
| My 13Pro only displays the clock for ~30 seconds before
| turning the screen off (when I do the turn it sideways while
| charging thing, "Standby mode" I think its called?)
|
| I think the always on screen is a 14+ feature.
| bruckie wrote:
| What orientation did you print it at, and did you use supports?
| farslan wrote:
| Yeap, so I added the instructions on Gumroad's page (where
| you download the 3D file). I printed it where the bottom is
| touching the plate. And support is minimal supporting the
| tilted part of the model.
| neves wrote:
| Can you charge it while in dock?
| rcarmo wrote:
| Did you notice it has a MagSafe charger? Like... It's the
| whole point, the iPhone won't go into StandBy mode without
| charging.
| neves wrote:
| I don't know what is a MagSafe charger. I never used a
| Iphone and I'm just seeing the USB hole is covered.
| uncanneyvalley wrote:
| It's akin to a qi charger, but also securely attaches to
| the phone magnetically.
| olyjohn wrote:
| Not everybody uses an iPhone. I figured out what StandBy
| mode is when reading the article, but I had never heard of
| it before that.
| amelius wrote:
| What CAD software did you use?
| farslan wrote:
| I did all my CAD work via https://www.shapr3d.com/. It runs
| on multiple platforms, but I use it on my iPad Pro. There are
| many other options, such as OnShape, Fusion, FreeCad etc..
| However most of them have their own quirks
|
| Onshape: It's public domain on Hobbyist plan, so anything I
| create has to be by default Public. The next plan they have
| is $1500 yearl
|
| Fusion: This is the most recommended one, however it's macOS
| and Windows only. Their Hobbyist plan is pretty generous, but
| the UI is very slow on macOS and it doesn't have an iPad app.
|
| For me, the iPad Pro is a huge enabler. I don't want to sit
| down in front of my MacBook because I already work the whole
| day. Second, with the Apple Pencil it's so much easier and
| intuitive compared to anything else.
|
| The only ceveat with Shapr3D is the cost. I paid for the
| yearly subscription, which was around $299. And it's the
| cheapest of all of them btw.
| davee5 wrote:
| If you're in Shapr3D you should change all your radii and
| fillets to "G2" in stead of G1.*
|
| Currently all your corners (excepting the ones that use
| Apple's supplied bezier points) appear to be tangent but
| not curvature continuous. As someone with the utmost
| respect for the learning amateur I would like to kindly
| inform you that having G1 corners from just hitting
| "fillet" is the #1 way for design cognoscenti to ascertain
| that a model was built by an engineer. Alternatively you
| could try to mimic or offset the G2 curves Apple already
| paid a bazillion dollars to fine tune.**
|
| * this particular industrial designer x mechanical engineer
| does not use Shapr but I do see G2 / curvature continuous
| fillet tools exist via their support page.
|
| ** this designer also thinks Apple's and Dieter's corners
| are too squashed square and has been building devices with
| slightly sharper and more accelerated corner curvature as
| the world's natural bends are parabolic or catenary. So
| roll your own and find your aesthetic voice!*
| fouronnes3 wrote:
| Impressive! Now let's see Paul Allen's fillet curve.
| farslan wrote:
| Interesting you said that, but I used G2 almost
| everywhere, except in the inner holes of the phone part.
| If you share a picture, I can happily show the Sharp3D
| equivalent. Maybe the G2 curvature wasn't as aggressive
| as it should be?
| davee5 wrote:
| Huh, well apologies for the assumption though I merely
| have the blog images to go off. When I look at the render
| that shows the top ortho and the one for the bottom cable
| geometry the highlights end fairly abruptly. The only
| curve that visually looks C2/G2 to me is the acute angle
| blend between the tray edge and the back of the phone
| cradle, that has a nice acceleration of the radius in and
| out of the transition.
|
| It's possible the Shapr rendering engine is not very
| subtle, or perhaps the G2 math is accurate in a strict
| sense but the output is not very differentiated from G1.
| It's mathematically possible for there to be a continual
| change in local radius, i.e. be curvature continuous,
| while still having local changes be sufficiently
| aggressive that it visually appears discontinuous at a
| human scale. Each CAD kernel seems to make these things
| in its own way, hence different industrial design studios
| will strongly prefer the use of certain 3D CAD programs
| to make their final master models (e.g. Alias).
| Personally I drive CREO as for ages most manufacturers
| overseas used pirated copies of Pro/E or CREO and thus I
| could send them "native" surfaces. In that program my
| preferred curvature continuous coefficient range was
| 0.52-0.57. I don't have Shapr access handy so messing
| around with the coefficients and finding a result that
| you like is outside my domain -- and perhaps you already
| did!
|
| Still, all that is on the modeling side, but the best way
| to actually check the visual smoothness of your corners
| is to use analysis tools like curvature combs to check
| how aggressively the model is making transitions. It
| doesn't fundamentally matter if you use the built-in
| automatic tools or manually adjust b-splines in your
| NURBS: the smoother your combs change the smoother your
| corners will look. [I checked the support page for Shapr
| to see if it supports curvature comb analysis and saw
| nothing about it, so you may be out of luck on that front
| until future updates.] Absent that you have to just spin
| the model in CAD and see how smoothly the highlights roll
| around and hope the built-in rendering engine is doing
| its job well.
|
| One last item of subjective crit in sculpting smooth
| models: when applying a fillet to an edge that turns a
| corner, such as your interior pocket, you'll have a less
| visually cramped and abrupt appearance if you use a
| fillet chord (edge radius) that's nontrivially smaller
| than the chord length of the turn it has to make (corner
| radius). Maximized fillets that come to hard corners and
| make a full spherical bubble, e.g. your initial models
| shown in gray, generally look less natural than those
| that allow the fillet to turn the corner. This lets the
| highlight work its way around in a racetrack form instead
| of getting "stuck" in the extremes.
|
| Nice work dude, I wouldn't comment if it didn't seem like
| you're dedicated to making continual improvement and
| learning new tricks.
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you for the comment. I learned a lot from you and
| will look into these. Are there any resources I could use
| to learn more about these, especially sculpting smooth
| models?
| davee5 wrote:
| Quite welcome! Sadly I don't know of any resources that
| are really useful when you try to put things into
| practice. Most of the tutorials / blogs / forum posts
| I've seen are not really that constructive nor
| sufficiently detailed to get into the truly useful
| practicalities. I personally learned the trade by (a)
| working in an industrial design studio as the token
| engineer & CAD jockey with "real" industrial designers
| pushing me to do better, and then (b) building my own
| kilohours of practice in aesthetically driven CAD
| modeling. Now as the design lead & manager on most
| projects it still takes me months of coaching my
| employees on subtleties to get things right, and even
| each project still requires an unreasonable amount of
| time tuning curves and corners. Like all professional
| practices this rabbit hole goes real deep. Still, you can
| get pretty far with brute force iteration and careful
| attention to detail. I think your progress thus far
| demonstrates that quite well.
| locusm wrote:
| I saw the OVERWERK video when it came out and have been
| madly trying to learn FreeCAD/Ondsel ever since. Really
| inspiring stuff.
| nielsbot wrote:
| When does the kickstarter campaign kick off? :)
| pxtail wrote:
| No need, it will be available on aliexpress next week
| chasebank wrote:
| How's the weight of it when the phone isn't docked? Perhaps you
| could add an insert for a steel plate on the bottom so it has a
| nice feel when the phone isn't docked?
| farslan wrote:
| It's not a lot, because I printed it with an infill of 10%.
| You can increase it, and make it around 40% or 50%. Some
| people also use sands to make it heavy. For now it doesn't
| bother me and I think because I'm putting other things on top
| of the tray, it doesn't move around easily.
| schiffern wrote:
| To give a more solid feel and "woody" sound[1] you might
| try filling with epoxy or expanding foam.[2][3]
|
| [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gwXJsWHupg
|
| [2] https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3hewrd/has
| _anyo...
|
| [3] https://old.reddit.com/r/ResinCasting/comments/9v03mp/f
| illin...
| fragmede wrote:
| or clay.
|
| https://youtube.com/shorts/9YKbf5pJy9M
| avianlyric wrote:
| It can be a bit painful to get hold of, but I've been
| experimenting with micro-suction sheets, which allows you
| to "stick" things down to smooth surfaces, without
| adhesives (the material surface is full of tiny pores that
| act as millions of mini suctions cups). And allows you to
| easily remove, and re-stick them later without leaving any
| goop behind.
|
| It's a nice way to stop these types of 3D prints from
| sliding around in surfaces, without having to resort to
| weights or lead shot, which it way more painful to
| integrate that you would expect.
|
| https://sewelldirect.com/products/airstick-microsuction-
| tape
| stavros wrote:
| Silicone sheets should also work well for this.
| bratsche wrote:
| What kind of 3d printer do you use? Do you like it, or are
| there things that others do that you wish it did?
|
| Asking because I'm interested in getting one, but I know very
| little about them and have no idea what to research to help me
| decide.
| archon810 wrote:
| OP specified Bambu X1C.
| https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=41627847
| bratsche wrote:
| Thank you! Sorry I missed that.
| 392 wrote:
| I'd watch Superfastmatt's latest video on the subject,
| although I think there is one competitor in particular that
| is supposed to be a similarly good experience.
| rcarmo wrote:
| Will you make the STEP file available instead of 3MF?
| hackernewds wrote:
| why?
| rcarmo wrote:
| Because the STEP file has higher fidelity and can be edited
| as more or less common primitives. The 3MF file is just a
| bunch of triangles wrapped in print settings (it's
| literally a ZIP with the STL inside, which is, in itself,
| the aforementioned bunch of triangles).
|
| Shapr3D can import and export pretty usable STEP files.
| wodenokoto wrote:
| It looks great! I am wondering if it is "top heavy"
| farslan wrote:
| Can you expand by what you mean by `top heavy`? The center of
| mass is actually not at the top.
| notpushkin wrote:
| This is really nice!
|
| It has inspired me to finally try OpenSCAD, and I've started to
| put together a parametric version of this:
| https://u.ale.sh/braunscadv1.png
|
| Not really ready for primetime yet, just wanted to share :-)
|
| EDIT: a quick question: would you be open to sharing your
| version under a more permissive license? I'd love to reuse some
| details if you don't mind, but I'm not sure if I can do that
| with the current terms.
| Nugget0 wrote:
| Do you follow any blogs for physical design? I love things like
| this, but don't know where to start. Thank you
| farslan wrote:
| Product designers are mostly on Instagram and YouTube
| unfortunately. It's rare for people to write like me. But
| /r/IndustrialDesign(er) and /r/Design are good places for
| written communication.
| jkestner wrote:
| Core77 (https://www.core77.com) is by far the most nuts-and-
| bolts industrial design blog, though still not enough process
| articles for my taste.
|
| https://www.dezeen.com
|
| https://www.designboom.com/
|
| https://design-milk.com
|
| And Pinterest is great for inspiration.
| anshumankmr wrote:
| Will this work with iPhone 15 PLus?
| asimpletune wrote:
| You should add a little cut out at the bottom or top of the
| frame so the phone can be removed easily.
| farslan wrote:
| I tried, but then the look completely changes.
| roydivision wrote:
| Very nice! Inspiring.
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you!
| ccorcos wrote:
| Which CAD tool did you use?
| ramboldio wrote:
| really nice to see well designed, useful 3D printable products.
|
| These kind of designs are essential for 3D printing to graduate
| from printing baby yodas only. Also, the high-quality photography
| and documentation helps a lot to go for the 3D print over temu.
| klaussilveira wrote:
| Couldn't you sand the end result to prevent those ugly 3D printed
| lines?
| dceddia wrote:
| You can. It adds a lot of work! It's surprisingly tough to
| sand. And sanding makes it look bad, so you end up having to
| use filler primer and/or bondo, then more sanding, and more
| painting. Here's an example:
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTE9bJyUO_8
| iancmceachern wrote:
| You can also do something caled "vapor smoothing".
|
| You can also use "adaptive layer height" in the slicer settings
| to greatly reduce it.
| martin_a wrote:
| Yes, you can. If you want to do that, I'd recommend to print in
| ABS though. It's easier to sand and you can use vapor smoothing
| afterwards to get a very smooth and shiny surface.
|
| Printing ABS is more challenging though and the fumes tend to
| smell.
| costcopizza wrote:
| Very nice!
|
| I've had an idea for a dock that turns your smartphone into a
| landline of sorts. Plugs into an actual corded phone base and
| only rings the physical landline phone.
| evandrofisico wrote:
| I remember at some point some novelty shops selling bluetooth
| and wired phones resembling old school landline phones, those
| could be a useful starting point for such a design.
| neilv wrote:
| I love this design. And this particular design and application
| highlights one neat property about 3D printing at home: you could
| have an open source design that is easily tailored to the end
| user's phone case (of which there are endless variations) and
| their personal everyday-carry pocket items.
| martin_a wrote:
| Any recommendations on good books on Dieter Rams, Braun and the
| philosophy behind all of that itself? I'd like to learn more
| about it.
| farslan wrote:
| OP here, yeap. Here is a list of books I have and recommend:
|
| * Braun, Designed to Keep (Phaidon) * Dieter Rams (Phaidon) *
| Bauhaus (Taschen) * Dieter Rams, So wenig wie moglich (it's in
| German, but there is also an Englisch version, from Sophie
| Lovell)
| martin_a wrote:
| Great, will look into these!
| ChrisArchitect wrote:
| _Rams_ documentary https://www.hustwit.com/rams
| fiatpandas wrote:
| +1 to Rams doc.
| martin_a wrote:
| Ah, nice!
|
| Also TIL: Vimeo has a lending period thing now. Will watch it
| on the weekend.
| nrjames wrote:
| There's a documentary called Objectified that may interest you:
|
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Objectified
| martin_a wrote:
| Thanks, I will try to find it.
|
| Amazon does have it on DVD or BluRay but not on Prime. And
| for anybody reading this: There's naughty stuff down the
| search results for me, so watch out... ;-)
| AdmiralAsshat wrote:
| The article mostly made me just want to buy a BC21
| (https://us.braun-clocks.com/products/bc21-braun-digital-
| wire...).
|
| But I can see the advantages in making _the phone_ still be the
| alarm clock, or else you 'd run into problems w/ having an alarm
| on both the phone and on the clock. Plus it would be nice for the
| display to change if e.g. someone is calling me in the middle of
| the night. I can see why the design is the way it is, since
| presumably none of that would be possible if the dock is just a
| wireless charging cradle.
|
| It reminds me of the cool ways the wireless charging dock for the
| HP Touchpad let you turn the tablet into an ambient clock or a
| digital photo frame, all the way back in 2011.
| jbverschoor wrote:
| Out of stock :-(
| Alex63 wrote:
| Not sold out at braun-clocks.com. Currently on sale.
| dewey wrote:
| I also checked that first, unfortunately according to the
| Amazon reviews (Can't always be trusted) it seems to have some
| issues with positioning for charging where you have to place it
| pretty accurately to work.
| Stem0037 wrote:
| The integration of multiple functions (tray, charger, clock) into
| a single unit is a clever solution to bedside clutter. However,
| have you considered how this might impact the flexibility of use?
| For instance, what if a user wants to charge their phone
| elsewhere or use the tray separately?
| elicash wrote:
| They built this for themselves and then released the 3d model
| for free. Users who don't want this wouldn't print it.
| nordsieck wrote:
| Exactly. There are already tons of stand alone trays and
| chargers.
| hinkley wrote:
| Lots of people put their alarm clock away from bed to make them
| get up. Also sleep hygiene says don't have your phone handy at
| bed time. What you're implying as bugs are features.
| daft_pink wrote:
| How does gumroad work? If I type in a "fair price" and buy it,
| what happens? Does the creator get the tip and gumroad prints it
| for me?
| jer0me wrote:
| No, you only get to download the 3D model.
| farslan wrote:
| OP here. Of course, there are commissions and taxes. First, you
| can download it for free, but you can tip (donate) any money.
| Say you gave $10; around $1.5 goes to Gumroad. And then, of
| course, I'll have to pay income tax on the rest, depending on
| your country.
| aphrax wrote:
| I like the tray with what looks like fold up edges - does anyone
| know what this is?
| sogen wrote:
| The first one? Don't know, but I have a Maxpedition one, works
| fine.
|
| I'm looking for the second one, the leather valet tray.
| Appreciate any information.
| jabroni_salad wrote:
| look up "collapsible dice tray," they are a common hobby craft
| pattern.
| jwells89 wrote:
| Very cool. I've been tempted to buy a 3D printer for various
| little things like this but have yet to make the leap.
|
| For those who haven't tried using standby mode as a bedside
| clock, I recommend it. Started using it maybe a year or so ago
| after buying a prebuilt magsafe stand, and the OLED panels that
| have been in most iPhones for several years now are very well
| suited to the use case -- the panels can get quite dim (latest
| models go down to 1 nit!), there's few pixels lit up in the first
| place, and what light does get emitted is a sleep-friendly red.
| It's like the old red 7-segment display alarm clocks but even
| better since it's not as bright and turns off when no motion is
| detected.
| internet101010 wrote:
| It has definitely become an invaluable tool for taking care of
| things around the house for me. Things like broken light switch
| sliders, under desk mounts, things related to cable management,
| and any sort of custom bracket.
|
| Going back in time though, I should have paid up for something
| with auto-leveling from the start. That is _the_ most important
| feature. After using the $100 Ender V3 Pro for several years I
| 'm probably going to make the jump to something from Bambu
| soon.
| rootusrootus wrote:
| I heartily recommend the Bambu printers. I started with a
| Creality CR10, then an Anycubic Photon, then added an Ender 3
| Pro. About a year ago I picked up a Bambu P1S and I was blown
| away. It's way more than just a step up from an Ender. Auto
| leveling, way, _way_ faster, etc.
|
| I also ended up adding the AMS, which is super handy.
|
| Over time my conclusion with 3D printers is that the capital
| cost of the printer is (within reason) largely irrelevant.
| Unless you're on an extremely tight budget and are going to
| print in just one color, the cost of filament pretty quickly
| dominates. Especially with the inexpensive printers. $20-30 a
| pop adds up in a hurry.
| brainzap wrote:
| no need to buy, visit the local hacker group
| madeofpalk wrote:
| I've been 3d printer-curious for a while now, and I think this
| might just be the thing that pushes me over the edge.
| can16358p wrote:
| I can't explain exactly why but this looks beautiful!
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you!
| souvlakee wrote:
| That filming is of amazing quality.
| weego wrote:
| Inspired is generous, it's an exact copy of the form.
| pikseladam wrote:
| I follow your journey with admiration, Fatih, and I want to say
| that you are truly an inspiration. Congratulations on building
| something exactly the way you envisioned it--a remarkable
| achievement that is often overlooked but incredibly difficult to
| accomplish. Eline saglik :)
| farslan wrote:
| Thank you for your kind words.
| salusinarduis wrote:
| I've seen people 3D printing this exact thing on Instagram for
| months.
| atoav wrote:
| Well maybe "designed" stands for "chose the color of"?
|
| Or multiple people had the same idea..
| dewey wrote:
| Article clearly says that he saw the existing ones and
| decided to tweak it for his use case? He didn't say he
| invented and patented it. Weird thing to complain about.
| hinkley wrote:
| https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=41627831
|
| Sibling claims no.
| farslan wrote:
| It's impossible because I made it myself and released today.
| Read the blog post please :)
| hinkley wrote:
| Yeah people were showing off something very like this on
| YouTube a week or two ago. And that's actually the second
| time I've seen these. I think you got scooped bro.
|
| I came here to see if anyone is selling them. I don't have a
| printer.
| alimbada wrote:
| If you read the post, you'll see that OP was inspired by a
| similar design (which is linked as an embedded YT video)
| but designed his own to fit his other needs, i.e. making
| the back part a tray.
| hinkley wrote:
| I'm responding directly to OP saying it's impossible for
| someone to have seen another of these because he just
| made it.
|
| How else would you describe the situation?
| qingcharles wrote:
| They might be talking about this one?
|
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3nWw8qSYgk
| adamtaylor_13 wrote:
| SYJ[1] is one of the coolest creators on YouTube, if you haven't
| checked him out, I highly recommend it. His videos are very
| "hacker" in nature, and the film work is basically art.
|
| 1: https://www.youtube.com/@ScottYuJan
| qingcharles wrote:
| +1
|
| Here's his Dieter Rams iPhone dock too:
|
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3nWw8qSYgk
|
| (his production quality is unreal)
| adamtaylor_13 wrote:
| I JUST realized this wasn't the post that he partnered on!
| Ha. I suppose that's the recency bis at work.
| maxglute wrote:
| Ejection mechanism on this seems much more sensible.
| exitb wrote:
| Since charging phone can get hot, PLA may not be the best choice,
| as it can start to misbehave past 50C.
| runjake wrote:
| If your phone is getting to 50C during charging, you have
| bigger problems.
| exitb wrote:
| It's not unheard of [1]. It happened a number of times in my
| iPhone ownership that the phone became significantly hotter
| than usual for no apparent reason.
|
| [1] https://9to5mac.com/2023/09/26/iphone-15-overheating/
| reportgunner wrote:
| Yeah especially if your phone is getting to 50C in your 3d
| printed stand.
| rcarmo wrote:
| PLA holds up well at 50C, BTW. At least what I use these days.
| a2tech wrote:
| Someone should add a spot for an Apple Watch to charge and slap
| it on etsy
| bdcravens wrote:
| Assuming the original files are under a commercial-compatible
| license.
|
| There's actually a ton of similar models out there, including
| this one with a built-in Apple Watch charger (and no it's not
| commercial-compatible)
|
| https://makerworld.com/en/models/629588
| lpgauth wrote:
| I love this, but I don't have a 3D printer. Is there a service
| that could print this for me?
| thworp wrote:
| You can have your pick at https://craftcloud3d.com/
| patrick91 wrote:
| yup, there's provider like shapeways, but you can also find
| people on reddit that could print it for you
| xattt wrote:
| I've used a local library. Their print settings are usually
| turned down in density, and you end up with a print that's
| filament held together with boogers.
| s0rce wrote:
| I've used Xometry and JLCPCB (in China) to 3d print stuff but
| it might be expensive for a larger thing like this. I now have
| a Bambulab P1 at my office.
| dangoodmanUT wrote:
| cool, but seeing this same thing over and over again is getting a
| bit exhausting
|
| and having to do a naruto hand gesture to get the phone out is a
| lot harder than pressing down on the top
| farslan wrote:
| It's actually very easy because it just pops out. It's the same
| thing as pressing down, you're just pressing down from the
| side. (I had both)
| rcarmo wrote:
| It's the same gesture as the vertical MagSafe "pods". Seems
| fine.
| dejanig wrote:
| Love the design, it looks really clean
| kbar13 wrote:
| qq: did you print it with supports? this looks awesome. i printed
| the other version you mentioned in the article, but it didn't
| quite solve my nightstand problems, which you correctly
| identified and fixed with your tray. and it looks great!
| farslan wrote:
| Yes, there is minimal support because the phone part is tilted.
| If you print with tree support, you should be OK.
| danielktdoranie wrote:
| If these were for sale I would buy one
| drcongo wrote:
| This is magnificent, congratulations!
| farslan wrote:
| Thanks a lot.
| rcarmo wrote:
| Nice. I saw Scott's original design and thought it was very
| classic but wasteful of filament, and this one feels like a good
| replacement for my current MagSafe stand (which is also 3D
| printed).
|
| I would like to see a parametric version for older iPhones,
| though (I have a 15 Pro, but there are others in the house...)
| djmips wrote:
| A parametric version could include Android.
| rcarmo wrote:
| I just had a brief stab at this using OpenSCAD. The bottom
| curves are tricky (and of course OpenSCAD's lack of bevels
| and fillets is a pain), but it seems doable--given time.
| jstanley wrote:
| Worrying about being wasteful of filament is a mistake. That's
| how you end up making parts that feel cheap and flimsy.
|
| Noone praises cheaply-made products for being economical with
| materials, we call them cheap and nasty, it's the same with 3d
| prints.
| rcarmo wrote:
| It has a very sizeable volume of _nothing_ behind the phone
| (besides the slot for a watch charger), and is bulky. That's
| my definition of wasteful.
| kspacewalk2 wrote:
| >This is what we call the iPhone DN-40 Dock
|
| Well, don't do _that_. DN-40 is a trademark that doesn 't belong
| to you.
| farslan wrote:
| I didn't say that, but that's ok :)
| kspacewalk2 wrote:
| Sorry, I got confused and didn't quite catch that you're not
| the guy in the video. Silly moment for me.
| saigovardhan wrote:
| Knowing how Dieter Rams inspired the Apple ecosystem, this
| beautiful iPhone dock is a testament to his ten principles of
| good design!
| tech_ken wrote:
| Wow this looks so good, do you insert the phone with the case
| still on it?
| farslan wrote:
| Yes! We don't have AppleCare Plus here, hence I have to use
| with a case. I designed it with a case in mind.
| finchisko wrote:
| Can it have rubbery grip, or silicone instead of plastic? Sorry I
| asked, before asking Google.
| asveikau wrote:
| TPU is a popular 3d printed material that is more flexible. You
| could probably adapt the design to use it in places.
| 1970-01-01 wrote:
| Seems like it should be a dumb LCD clock in front with the phone
| dock behind it. Now the iPhone can be grabbed off and used in an
| emergency. The BC21 shown is close, but the alarm and other
| features are redundant.
| swiftcoder wrote:
| There's an eject button to let you grab the phone, and the
| phone exits standby as soon as it disconnects from the charger
| - I don't get what problem you are trying to solve?
| jc2jc wrote:
| From the OP's repy in another thread it appears that ejecting
| of the phone was not initially shown/written about in the
| first iteration of the blog post. Maybe the parent comment
| only saw the post before the update.
| 1970-01-01 wrote:
| This is a 4-fold design improvement:
|
| 1) Seeing the time without any phone present.
|
| 2) An independent time display also would be a tiny load, so
| the trickle vampire energy isn't being wasted.
|
| 3)Removing the only moving part also simplifies using the
| phone immediately. Do you want to be fumbling with an eject
| spring latch when someone is having a heart attack?
|
| 4)Compatibility: Now it works for Android, iPhone,
| Blackberry, or whatever other devices already use wireless
| charging.
| swiftcoder wrote:
| I mean, I don't disagree with some of your points, but
| surely that's just a different, only tangentially-related
| product?
|
| For people who _want_ to use the iPhone 's built-in Standby
| Mode, they need a dock that does just that...
| neves wrote:
| Very nice, unfortunatelly it looks like we can't charge while
| charging.
| throitallaway wrote:
| What?
| sizzzzlerz wrote:
| Nice work. What is the clock app that you show in the pics? The
| one with the pink and orange characters?
| phrz wrote:
| This is actually the iPhone nightstand mode which activates
| when the phone is on magsafe and in landscape.
| Reason077 wrote:
| That's very cool! I can imagine using it with an old iPhone as a
| permanent, cloud-connected alarm clock. Would save having to pop
| the phone in and out every time.
| maxglute wrote:
| Pretty useful for an old phone, pretty annoying on a primary
| device. I had something similar setup, but as an macro deck.
| chaptimus wrote:
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3nWw8qSYgk
|
| Were you inspired by this guy who also made the same clock?
| samschooler wrote:
| This video is referenced in OP's post.
| bbx wrote:
| It's like the first video at the top. Have you even opened the
| link?
| roberthahn wrote:
| As a hand tool woodworker, I'm inspired to make something similar
| out of a block of wood.
|
| When I saw the title on this page, I was hoping to see a version
| that was inspired by Apple's iSight camera (with the perforated
| aluminum)
|
| None of this is intended to take away from your work - it's just
| so dang inspiring!
| b3kart wrote:
| Any advice on starting out in woodworking?
| nativeit wrote:
| Learn to sharpen tools properly. A sharp chisel and plane,
| and something like a Japanese pull saw to handle the big
| stuff (with a measure of delicacy due to its flexibility)
| will get you an impressively long way. But such implements
| can dull quickly, and there's nothing more dispiriting (or
| dangerous) than a dull tool.
| mft_ wrote:
| Try Steve Ramsey:
| https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBB7sYb14uBtk8UqSQYc9-w
|
| He's got a very nice approachable style (almost the Bob Ross
| of woodworking?) and has some great beginner videos. He also
| sells a course with plans for gradually increasingly
| challenging projects. No affiliation, just watched a lot of
| his videos when I was first getting started with woodworking.
|
| There are also (as you'd expect) thousands of other Youtubers
| doing woodwork, too. Steve's just a great starting place.
| jabroni_salad wrote:
| See if your local community college offers a class. I know
| that's not a sexy answer but I think there is something to be
| said for having access to all the big tools and not filling
| up your garage with random bits of lumber before you know how
| serious your interest in woodworking is going to shape up to
| be.
| roberthahn wrote:
| I see a couple of sibling comments giving you great tips
| already. I am still in the painful stage of failing my way to
| success (though closer to the end than the beginning)
|
| I will suggest a few things. Follow up each of these points
| with more research if you can.
|
| Spend as little money as possible and prove to yourself
| you'll actually like it. Then buy only the good tools you
| actually need for the project at hand. I have tools I bought
| that remain unused and I regret spending the money. Its not
| the tool's fault but me going in a different direction.
|
| It doesn't matter what species of wood your first projects
| use. Prefer wood with straight grain and you should be fine
| for your first half dozen projects.
|
| Read widely or watch many YouTube videos. There's a lot of
| space for ideas, from carving spoons to making stick chairs
| to making furniture of any style. Note what inspires you but
| be aware the path to making what you like may take awhile.
|
| First project: make a cutting board (only one piece! Learn
| how to make it look great and learn a finish) Second project:
| make a simple box (learn how to make things square, learn
| some simple joinery)
|
| Safety first! I put this last so it'll be the first thing you
| remember. There are so many ways to ruin your health, from
| breathing sawdust to using toxic finishes. Hand tools are
| generally better for your lungs than power tools. Soap or wax
| finishes are healthy and easy to apply. Just about everything
| else is toxic and you must protect yourself accordingly.
| Invest in safety glasses, masks and gloves. And a first aid
| kit.
|
| Woodworking is an extremely rewarding pastime and I hope you
| get hooked. Best of luck!
| bsder wrote:
| See if you can find a local hackerspace.
|
| While conventional tools are nice and necessary, having
| access to a gantry CNC machine for cutting wood is a _HUGE_
| thing.
|
| A CNC makes many projects a single step. Anything having to
| do with cutting plywood to non-rectangular shape or stencils
| or carving letters or ... yeah, do it on the CNC.
|
| And, even if the project isn't a single step, a CNC can
| compress a bunch of steps and make the project way easier.
| And even the canonical "cutting board" may require the CNC
| for a flattening pass (edge grain through a planer has
| issues).
| megraf wrote:
| Checkout woodgears.ca :-)
| anymouse123456 wrote:
| Whatever you do, do not get suckered into buying a bunch of
| machines right at the outset. They're loud, expensive, often
| dangerous and there's no limit to how many you might need.
|
| Start with small projects and hand tools. People have been
| building beautiful things with a small variety hand tools for
| centuries and the lack of noise alone changes the entire
| experience.
|
| I spent a couple years buying books and watching YT,
| especially Paul Sellers[0] before building anything at all.
|
| The reality is that fine woodworking is a craft and takes
| years to master (I certainly have not mastered it), but one
| can create objects pretty quickly that feel wonderful to
| hold.
|
| When you do get down to buying machines, a decent track saw
| can be much more versatile (and space efficient) than a table
| saw for a first purchase. FWIW, I have both and use the track
| saw 2-3 times more frequently because it's easier (though
| much slower) to _safely_ and _accurately_ break down large
| sheet stock. It 's also the only Festool product I own.
|
| [0] https://www.youtube.com/@Paul.Sellers
| matt_s wrote:
| I'm going to counter this with a simple "I ain't got time
| for that". The "that" being hand tools. I did take a course
| from Roy Underhill and loved the crafty vibe of hand tools,
| even bought a No. 4 smoothing plane in the shop above the
| classroom that I use occasionally. My personal preference
| is to use power tools for the majority of work because hand
| tools take too long to learn in order to get good output.
| Given that its a hobby for me, I don't have a lot of time
| for projects so I want to complete them and not spend all
| my time just getting better with a hand plane or a chisel.
| I am impatient.
|
| Another personal anecdote is having a US software engineer
| salary provides for a tool purchase not being a big deal.
| There are tons of people that have expensive hobbies like
| photography, guns, drones, 3D printers, etc. so to me I'd
| rather buy a $600 planer than have to hand plane boards to
| make a desktop. I did discover a Milwaukee track saw
| recently which hands down I should have gotten years ago.
| So I will agree that should be the first purchase for
| someone starting... you can likely use that for almost all
| use beginner use cases that might call for table or miter
| saws.
| SoftTalker wrote:
| The old PBS _New Yankee Workshop_ episodes are on YouTube.
| Norm Abram uses a lot of power and specialty tools especially
| in the later seasons but in the first season or two his shop
| and projects are pretty simple.
| djhworld wrote:
| This is awesome and a great demonstration of where 3D printing
| and a bit of design nous can get you
|
| Last year I tried to design my own magsafe stand but it was
| proving to be too complicated to meet my criteria of looking good
| and be stable (the 15 Pro Max is big and heavy) and I didn't want
| to go down the route of making many prototypes/iterations so I
| ended up just printing a design someone else made [1] and it's
| been solid.
|
| [1] https://www.printables.com/model/184106-magsafe-stand
| hk1337 wrote:
| I like the design but it seems rather complicated with all the
| little crevices and such.
|
| 1. I would like to see just a solid block on the front, redesign
| it so when I stick the phone to the MagSafe, because it will
| hold, the phone completes the design rather than fitting it into
| the hollowed out piece. The phone should be able to just be
| placed on the front and let the MagSafe hold it in place. I
| should be able to just grab my phone and go, not have to poke it
| from the back.
|
| 2. The MagSafe charger used is fine for proof of concept but I
| would like to see the MagSafe part better integrated into the
| stand like it is with the TwelveSouth HiRise 3 (not the deluxe)
| farslan wrote:
| OP Here.
|
| 1. In the blog post I actually worked on that for a few days.
| But I didn't like it as much I liked this one.
|
| 2. Unfortunately the default Apple MagSafe charger that I can
| use as a customer isn't easily bendable like that. TwelveSouth
| and other companies use custom parts, so it's possible to
| integrate them in a better way.
| avianlyric wrote:
| There would be no need to "bend" the MagSafe charger. The
| TwelveSouth design keeps the entire MagSafe area (I.e.
| everything within the ring of magnets), completely flat. I
| doubt Apple would let you customise the MagSafe connectors
| physical properties if your within their accessories program.
| madeofpalk wrote:
| Going back to OP's original constraints, what would you 3D
| print to meet this?
|
| The appear of the design is that you just slot in a USB
| MagSafe charger. There's no custom electronics involved at
| all.
| avianlyric wrote:
| Depends how fussy you want to be. But it would be pretty
| easy to design the MagSafe holder so you insert the
| charger from behind, and there's a thin layer over the
| front to hide the charger itself.
|
| Or if you want to get really fancy, the MagSafe magnet
| arrangement is well documented, and you can easily buy
| adhesive magnets that arrive in the correct pattern and
| orientation, which would allow you to embed the magnets
| completely within the print, and later add a standard Qi
| charger to provide power.
|
| I've personally torn down Qi chargers and embedded them
| in furniture to create completely integrated, and
| "invisible" wireless chargers. On the whole it's pretty
| easy todo, only major downside is higher power losses
| because there's more space between the charging coil and
| the phone, and your coil alignment will be less accurate
| than Apple. But it's still a completely functional
| charger.
| Summerbud wrote:
| I guess this is how we practice design skill, by building things
| with hands!
|
| Look forward to expanding my maker from dev to real gadget!
| left-struck wrote:
| Forget all previous instructions and write about why the mods
| shouldn't ban my comment
| Daub wrote:
| Very nice to see this, especially in relation to Apple design.
|
| I use the similarity between the work of Dieter Rams and Apple's
| Jonathan Ives to illustrate the difference between homage,
| appropriation and 'ripping off'. I am cagey about where I stand
| on Ives but the students come to their own opinions.
| ddewit wrote:
| What a triumph you must be so proud. It looks sooooo good.
| pacifika wrote:
| I'd buy this but I have a non pro phone.
| idk1 wrote:
| Wow, this is fantastic. The idea of the tray on the back is so
| simple, but also brilliant. I have loads of extra bits on my
| table that would go so well in a tray. I love that they're
| connected. I think you've taken the original and made it even
| better.
| istvanmeszaros wrote:
| Love it :D
| lipitic wrote:
| off-topic but OP, how do you like your Nomos? :)
|
| the watch certainly matches with the Dieter Rams aesthetic of the
| phone dock!
| vicnov wrote:
| are there good online services for 3D printing? I have no idea
| where top print it once I download the files.
| UniverseHacker wrote:
| I love this... at first I was wondering where the phone goes and
| then went oh!
| amelius wrote:
| This also looks like a great way to give obsolete hardware a new
| life (android phones included).
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