[HN Gopher] A Real Life Off-by-One Error
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       A Real Life Off-by-One Error
        
       Author : leejo
       Score  : 310 points
       Date   : 2024-09-01 21:47 UTC (4 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (leejo.github.io)
 (TXT) w3m dump (leejo.github.io)
        
       | anyfoo wrote:
       | Great find!
       | 
       | One comment on what the article says:
       | 
       | > If this were actual code review the correct comment would be
       | something like "this [piece] hasn't been used for years, it
       | should be deleted". But this is something in physical space, and
       | there would be arguments that removing it (them) means the route
       | has changed, thus times are no longer comparable.
       | 
       | Hmm, I think the correct analogy is rather a benchmark. Like code
       | in a benchmarking tool or test, the whole climbing course does
       | not serve any purpose, any actual goal, except to be completed as
       | fast as possible.
       | 
       | You wouldn't say "these instructions should be deleted because
       | branch prediction and speculative execution in recent years have
       | made it so that total cycle count is the same without them", for
       | the reason stated ultimately after in the article already: That
       | may not have been true in the past, and may change again in the
       | future.
        
         | bigiain wrote:
         | > "these instructions should be deleted because branch
         | prediction and speculative execution in recent years have made
         | it so that total cycle count is the same without them"
         | 
         | Then a new CPU architecture becomes popular, and spiders start
         | winning every speed climbing event
        
         | masklinn wrote:
         | > You wouldn't say "these instructions should be deleted
         | because branch prediction and speculative execution in recent
         | years have made it so that total cycle count is the same
         | without them"
         | 
         | This is a very different statement than the original, and
         | furthermore the original might actually trigger performance
         | issues e.g. while the operation might not be used anymore it
         | can have side effects (like triggering a prefetch) which end up
         | affecting downstream code.
        
           | yccs27 wrote:
           | Yep, and even if the hold is not used anymore it can have
           | side effects (like being in the way) which can end up
           | affecting the climbing movements ;)
        
         | yccs27 wrote:
         | In the benchmark analogy, that piece would be a line of code
         | that can be optimized away by the compiler. It could still
         | matter if the code (course) is recompiled (rerouted) for a
         | different architecture (climber).
        
         | canucker2016 wrote:
         | My analogy is that "The bug is in the error-handling portion of
         | the common fast-path speed traversal of the climb."
         | 
         | The fast path that the speed climbers commonly use doesn't
         | involve the slower path involving the buggy portion.
         | 
         | But if the climber can't get up/further using the fast path
         | then the climber may be forced to take the slower path.
         | 
         | Since the slower path is standardized, the climber knows how
         | much effort/time is needed on the slower path.
         | 
         | Except on the righthand side, the climber's typical effort
         | along the slower "buggy" path is different from the typical
         | slower path and will result in an even slower time aka the
         | execution time in the error-handling path is larger than
         | usual...
        
       | AEVL wrote:
       | Not an off-by-one error--at least not in spirit. Interesting
       | nonetheless.
       | 
       | I expected the article to eventually answer this puzzle:
       | 
       | > The competition started and got through a number of rounds.
       | There were some comments about how the climber on the left always
       | won.
       | 
       | Near the end:
       | 
       | > The kicker is that the out of place hold hasn't been used in a
       | long time. The climbers have optimised their route such that it
       | is skipped. The same happens to the fourth hold from the bottom.
       | So either being in the wrong place is immaterial to the climbers'
       | technique as long as they don't get in the way.
       | 
       | So it seems like the error discovered by the article author
       | should not have conferred any advantage to the climber on the
       | left.
       | 
       | Anyone who can shine light on this matter?
        
         | throwawayk7h wrote:
         | It may not be a fencepost error, but I think it's still off by
         | one.
        
         | Arcuru wrote:
         | The climbers had complained about an issue with the belay ropes
         | on the right side that they also fixed.
         | 
         | > A few of the climbers had said that the automatic belay ropes
         | on the right hand lane did not feel right, so the cherry picker
         | was replacing those and not the hold that I had noticed being
         | out of place. The climbers had noticed something wasn't quite
         | right, but hadn't said anything about the out of place hold.
         | 
         | It was probably just two separate problems.
        
         | merizian wrote:
         | Even if the out of place hold were used, would you then
         | conclude it to be causal? I still wouldn't rule out
         | coincidence. Many discoveries happen as a result of
         | investigating spurious patterns.
         | 
         | Also the author rules out psychology, but I wouldn't,
         | especially since there were multiple confirmed errors in the
         | route preparation, which I expect could reduce one's trust in
         | the fairness of the competition. In the moment, I might start
         | to wonder, "If one hold was out of place, why not more? Is
         | anyone even checking this?" even if untrue / unlikely.
        
           | petsfed wrote:
           | I've never been a competitive _speed_ climber, but I do
           | understand that part of the process of precision is having
           | cues for e.g. body position. So the fact that it's never
           | actually touched is not necessarily the red herring it seems
           | to be. Racecar drivers cue off of trackside landmarks to get
           | their brake timing right, for instance.
           | 
           | Certainly, the rope feel is a much more significant factor,
           | since the feel of the rope tugging on your harness is a _non_
           | visual part of your body position feedback (maybe "I know
           | that I'm going fast enough /pulling hard enough if I'm
           | outracing the rope retraction rate").
        
         | fsckboy wrote:
         | > _Not an off-by-one error--at least not in spirit. Interesting
         | nonetheless._
         | 
         | Literally it was an off-by-one error. Literally, literal
         | meaning.
        
           | hyperhello wrote:
           | I think the poster meant off-by-one doesn't simply mean a
           | plus or minus one error, like mispricing a $5.99 as $6.99,
           | but instead must be born out of confusion as to whether an
           | origin point is marked as a 1 or as a 0.
        
             | Kiro wrote:
             | > must be born
             | 
             | There are other reasons as well. I think the more common
             | causes are inclusive vs exclusive comparison errors and
             | fencepost.
        
               | whycome wrote:
               | > must be born
               | 
               | The spelling is off by one. It's "borne"
        
               | fsckboy wrote:
               | > _The spelling is off by one. It 's [not "born" it's]
               | "borne"_
               | 
               | the spelling was actually off by e , so you're stilll off
               | by 1.71828...
        
             | fmbb wrote:
             | Off-by-one is not born from the base of the index. It is a
             | general problem a lot of people run into in a lot of
             | different contexts.
             | 
             | It's for example called "the fencepost problem":
             | https://betterexplained.com/articles/learning-how-to-
             | count-a...
             | 
             | I agree subtracting or adding one to any number is not the
             | problem. It has to do with counting.
        
               | fsckboy wrote:
               | > _I agree subtracting or adding one to any number is not
               | the problem. It has to do with counting._
               | 
               | if you are sprint climbing and you put your hand out to
               | grab and you add or subtract the number 1 from where your
               | hand needs to be, it is a problem or contributes to a
               | speed difference.
        
             | richrichardsson wrote:
             | Perhaps the pieces are placed by counting a number of holes
             | from piece A to piece B? That's a perfect recipe for an
             | off-by-one: at which point relative to piece A do you start
             | counting.
        
         | Robbsen wrote:
         | > So it seems like the error discovered by the article author
         | should not have conferred any advantage to the climber on the
         | left.
         | 
         | They might not use the hold by physically touching it, but they
         | might still use it as a visual indicator of where the other
         | holds are in relation. These competitors are used to the same
         | layout for many years. If there is a slight misrepresentation
         | it can surely put them off.
        
         | jhncls wrote:
         | People are misunderstanding the meaning of an off-by-one error.
         | Suppose the plan states that hold A and hold B need to be 11
         | holes apart. In the true spirit of the off-by-one error, this
         | can be interpreted in 3 ways:
         | 
         | - either as 11 empty holes between the holds; - as 11 holes,
         | start counting 1 just above hold A; - or as 11 holes, start
         | counting with hold A as number 1.
         | 
         | Another real-life example, is a plumber who tells the
         | construction worker that the distance between the holes for hot
         | and cold water needs to be 15 cm. This was meant to be measured
         | center to center, but the constructor worker interpreted it as
         | the distance from the right side of the first hole to the left
         | side of the second. The result can still be admired in our
         | house, 10 years later.
        
         | ano-ther wrote:
         | They run the whole 15 meter up in about 5-10 seconds (quite
         | amazing to watch: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8O4g8JmWn9E ).
         | At that speed, a small disturbance from the path they
         | internalized means that they need to switch back to thinking
         | which will take them out of their flow.
        
         | rockfishroll wrote:
         | It's true that modern competitive speed climbers don't use that
         | hold. The collective optimization of the route is hilariously
         | serious (it's an olympic sport after all) and the different
         | optimizations have names, like 'The Tomoa Skip'.
         | 
         | But I think it's possible that 'extra' holds are potentially
         | like 'junk' DNA. People fall into the trap of thinking that DNA
         | is useless if it's never transcribed, but we know that's not
         | actually the case. Non-expressed DNA can do things like alter
         | binding affinity for neighboring sequences, affecting how often
         | those neighboring sequences are expressed. I think it's
         | possible that climbers are taking in a lot of information
         | subconsciously as they sprint through this route in order to
         | mike very small adjustments. The position of surrounding holds,
         | even ones they never touch, could very well be a part of that
         | information stream. They're fighting over hundredths of a
         | second, so even a very small effect could be meaningful.
        
       | db48x wrote:
       | They're all in real life.
        
         | cortesoft wrote:
         | People use "real life" and "not in a computer" interchangeably
        
           | db48x wrote:
           | Those people are wrong.
        
             | sanderjd wrote:
             | There is no right or wrong, there is only "what people mean
             | when they say words".
        
               | db48x wrote:
               | No, it's definitely possible to use words incorrectly.
        
               | necovek wrote:
               | That's not in conflict with what the parent said.
               | 
               | People can mean something else than you when using the
               | same words, and they might not be wrong as those word
               | definitions might be acceptable too (and they might
               | change over time too).
        
               | cortesoft wrote:
               | And who is the arbiter of which use is correct? Language
               | is always evolving and changing, the definitions of words
               | you grew up with were just the definitions at that time.
               | The meaning of a word is only defined by how people use
               | and understand it.
               | 
               | It is possible to use words incorrectly, but if 90% of
               | people use a word in a certain way, that becomes the
               | definition.
        
               | Bjartr wrote:
               | Colloquialisms like "in real life" are correct usage.
               | Just because it's not literal doesn't mean it's wrong
               | because the information contained in verbal and written
               | communication is affected by its context, including the
               | society and culture it arose within.
        
               | sanderjd wrote:
               | I think the simpler way to think about this is that it's
               | definitely possible (and common) to use words
               | _confusingly_.
               | 
               | That is, you can use words in such a way that many people
               | misunderstand what you mean. You could then call that
               | usage "incorrect" if you want, and I wouldn't quibble too
               | much with that, but the more important reason not to use
               | those words in that way is that people don't understand
               | you.
               | 
               | But in this case, this usage of "in real life" is not
               | confusing anyone. Even those who pedantically quibble
               | with it being "wrong" actually understood what was meant.
        
         | sobriquet9 wrote:
         | Unless we live in a simulation.
        
           | imp0cat wrote:
           | Remember all those time you've bitten your own tongue while
           | chewing? Those are all off-by-one errors in the simulation.
           | :)
        
         | enneff wrote:
         | Some can be imaginary no? Or do you think everything is real
         | life? In which case what's the meaning of "real life"?
        
         | GrantMoyer wrote:
         | Real life v.s. IEEE-754 life
        
       | renewiltord wrote:
       | That's a fantastic find. I imagine some standard CV tool can spot
       | this since the holds are grid-aligned. We should probably have
       | something like that. It's crazy how good human pattern-
       | recognition can get when trained on things. What a spot by you.
       | 
       | Also, by the way, where is the photo on your about page:
       | https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f40aa1942bba...
       | 
       | I feel like it's Crater Lake, Oregon, but considering where you
       | live it's probably somewhere in Switzerland. Looks lovely.
        
         | leejo wrote:
         | It is Crater Lake, from a second visit this summer.
        
         | stijnstijn wrote:
         | You could also simply take two photos and overlay them. The
         | difference would be obvious immediately to the human eye.
        
       | delgaudm wrote:
       | If you cross your eyes and look at the routes as if it were a
       | single stereoscopic image overlaying one route on top of each
       | other, the misplaced hold jumps out at you immediately.
        
         | pooriar wrote:
         | I just did it and it didn't jump out for me at all. Odd
        
           | pavon wrote:
           | I usually find it easier to relax my eyes (focus too far
           | rather than too close), and so the opposite occurred - most
           | of the holds appeared to float in a single plane (slightly
           | wavy perhaps due to lighting differences), while the
           | incorrect hold was sunk further back.
        
           | LeonB wrote:
           | Same! I couldn't get it to work because that sailboat was in
           | the way.
        
           | Miraltar wrote:
           | It's so weird ! The badly placed hold just disappears once
           | all the rests aligns. My brain seems to dismiss it as an
           | error on its part
        
             | iwontberude wrote:
             | Same, after some practice I could close one eye at a time
             | and see the movement but it was hard to maintain the eye
             | crossing with one eye closed
        
           | zeekaran wrote:
           | Took me a bit to realize the last photo has it correctly, and
           | to stop trying to find the discrepancy there. Looking at only
           | the first image it pops out to me because the wrong one is
           | floating closer to my eyes than the rest.
        
         | lilyball wrote:
         | Good idea. I just tried that on the first image of the whole
         | route (after zooming in a bit) and the misplaced hold looks
         | like it's floating in space away from the wall.
        
           | whycome wrote:
           | Yeah with each being slightly offset from the other, it
           | introduces a fake parallax while the others should align
           | perfectly and remain flat.
        
         | dkbrk wrote:
         | I tried this, and while I didn't have any difficulty
         | establishing a stereoscopic view it didn't jump out for me at
         | all. I perceived the blue line floating on top of the problem
         | handhold, but the handhold seemed to be on the same plane as
         | all the others. Knowing it was the problem one, I could use the
         | stereoscopic view to see it, but without already knowing I
         | don't think it would be apparent.
         | 
         | This is odd to me since I've successfully used stereoscopy in
         | the past to find small differences. For some reason, with this
         | image, rather than causing a change in perceived z-level, my
         | eyes fight for dominance and my left ends up winning.
        
           | carlmr wrote:
           | >This is odd to me since I've successfully used stereoscopy
           | in the past to find small differences.
           | 
           | Same, I think there are too many other things around it to
           | make it work for me though.
        
           | mhandley wrote:
           | It took me a little while, because that blue line is
           | definitely a distraction. But once the other holds all
           | settled down to being properly in the plane and sharply
           | focused, and I ignored the blue line, the misplaced one was
           | clearly above the plane.
        
         | sukmaagung wrote:
         | It works. It is actually my secret technique when solving "find
         | five differences".
        
           | uvesten wrote:
           | Now I'm one of the happy 10000!
        
             | jve wrote:
             | For people who may not understand your comment:
             | https://xkcd.com/1053/
             | 
             | I'm also one of them... actually not, I'm not "in US" :)
        
           | qwertox wrote:
           | Sometimes I also use this as a code diff tool. But it's most
           | fun for those image puzzles.
        
           | Dwedit wrote:
           | Speaking of trivializing a challenge:
           | 
           | There's a challenge where you see words like "RED BLUE YELLOW
           | GREEN PURPLE", but they are written in color different to
           | their name. You are challenged to say the color of the text
           | and not read the word out loud.
           | 
           | Intentionally defocusing your eyes makes that challenge
           | trivial.
        
         | sebtron wrote:
         | I don't understand how this works. If I cross my eyes, the
         | images become extremely blurry. I can't even tell if they are
         | precisely overlapping or not, let alone see if one of the holds
         | is out of place.
         | 
         | Am I the only one?
        
           | danbruc wrote:
           | That needs training, took me quite some time to learn this in
           | the early 90s when the Magic Eye books [1] came out and
           | autostereograms could be found in many newspapers. I
           | personally also never learned to cross my eyes, I instead
           | make them look parallel, see the diagram in [2]. Once you
           | have learned it, it is hard to unlearn, to the point that
           | once in a while my eyes and brain will snap onto repetitive
           | patterns like grid paper or just text without any intention
           | to do so.
           | 
           | [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_Eye
           | 
           | [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autostereogram
        
             | robotguy wrote:
             | >once in a while my eyes and brain will snap onto
             | repetitive patterns like grid paper or just text without
             | any intention to do so.
             | 
             | When autostereograms were all the rage in the late 80's I
             | had a program on my Mac Plus that let me make/edit them and
             | I used to edit for hours WHILE looking at them in 3D. Then
             | one time I was walking down a hallway with a repetitive
             | wallpaper pattern, my eyes did the thing, the entire
             | hallway appeared to shift in front of me, and I stumbled
             | and fell.
        
             | s3krit wrote:
             | > Once you have learned it, it is hard to unlearn, to the
             | point that once in a while my eyes and brain will snap onto
             | repetitive patterns like grid paper or just text without
             | any intention to do so.
             | 
             | Rare that I meet someone else that does this. I learned how
             | to do magic eye puzzles as a young child, I think my first
             | was in a magazine and I 'solved' it the standard way of
             | placing it close to your nose then slowly pulling back.
             | Before long I could just do it on command and as an adult I
             | find myself doing it all the time, often unconsciously.
             | Makes spot the difference puzzles trivial, that's for sure
        
       | gre wrote:
       | How about birthdays? When you turn "1" it's your second birthday.
       | Or counting three seconds. Start counting zero..one..two..three.
        
         | taraparo wrote:
         | The number on your yearly "birthday" is not the number of
         | birthdays you had (you only have one birthday) but the number
         | of years you survived since your birth.
         | 
         | So the day of your fifth birthday is the first day of your
         | sixth year alive.
        
           | noahlt wrote:
           | array.length
        
           | gre wrote:
           | Birthday vs birth day but yeah. It works if you say it
        
             | dasyatidprime wrote:
             | I've generally seen "birthday" (within a year; recurs)
             | versus "birthdate" (happens once).
        
         | ars wrote:
         | Jewish law sometimes counts from 1 instead of 0 for birthdays,
         | so a newborn is not 0 years old, they are in their 1st year.
         | (But it's written as "when they are 1", so you have to know
         | which counting method is being used.)
        
           | hangonhn wrote:
           | Chinese traditional age counting does the same. My mother had
           | to constantly explain to our relatives when I tell them my
           | age -- I use Western conventions.
        
         | Fred27 wrote:
         | Korea has a system similar to this. You start at age 1 and get
         | one year older each New Year's Day.
         | https://www.90daykorean.com/korean-age-all-about-age-in-kore...
        
           | whycome wrote:
           | They changed the system last year after using it for many
           | years (+/-1).
           | 
           | https://www.aljazeera.com/amp/news/2023/6/28/why-are-
           | south-k...
        
       | BobAliceInATree wrote:
       | You wouldn't want to remove unused holds, because in the future,
       | someone may find a more efficient path the makes use of that
       | hold, but ignores other ones.
        
         | mauvehaus wrote:
         | Sometimes climber, but not a speed climber: it would be
         | vanishingly unlikely for a hold that far left of the button to
         | end up on a more efficient route. Closer to the middle of the
         | route, maybe, but it'd be a sharp jog to the right to hit the
         | button from having any appendage on that hold.
        
         | stijnstijn wrote:
         | This is indeed what is argued in the article.
        
       | quantadev wrote:
       | An AI image prompt could easily detect the misplace grip, but
       | there's probably no other sport that needs to detect exact
       | placements of things is there?
        
         | superb_dev wrote:
         | A few seconds in an image editor could do it too
        
           | quantadev wrote:
           | Right. AI however could take into account skew angles and
           | perspective tho, so you could probably photograph something
           | from any angle at all and as long as all the pixels are there
           | the AI can tell you of something's out of place.
        
             | crote wrote:
             | Which can also be trivially done in any halfway-decent
             | image editor. Algorithm-wise, it'd probably look a lot like
             | QR code detection - which of course doesn't need any kind
             | of fancy AI.
        
               | quantadev wrote:
               | What I mean is you can probably get this to work with
               | pure prompt engineering, and English language just by
               | saying stuff like "Here's an image with correct hold
               | positions", and then submit another image that says "Are
               | the positions in this image correct." I just meant basic
               | image understanding of AI, like what OpenAI has.
               | 
               | I realize there's an infinite number of ways to
               | accomplish this that would be more complex. What I was
               | stating is the simplest possible way being pure prompt
               | engineering. You could even try with OpenAI right now, I
               | didn't try.
        
         | joshuarrrr wrote:
         | Mistakes happen: https://apnews.com/article/ncaa-
         | portland-3point-line-d78742b...
        
           | quantadev wrote:
           | good example.
        
       | mst wrote:
       | > Also, maybe in future someone will optimise the route using
       | that currently unused hold four down from the top?
       | 
       | This reminds me a lot of how Brood War meta changes as new 'bugs'
       | are discovered, since the fandom loves the game without it ever
       | being touched so when edge cases are discovered they become part
       | of the game rather than something to be fixed.
        
       | CoreDumpling wrote:
       | This week in 1945, an off-by-one error disrupts the surrender
       | ceremony ending World War II:
       | https://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/world/how-a-canadians-m...
        
         | dustincoates wrote:
         | > When the Japanese delegation protested - could they accept a
         | botched surrender document?
         | 
         | For some reason I find this a bit humorous. My dudes, you do
         | not have much leverage.
        
       | fracus wrote:
       | Seems bizarre to keep the same wall config for all of time. The
       | sport becomes about muscle memory more than anything else. The
       | competitors can literally turn off their conscious brain. It
       | would seem to me, it would be more exciting as a spectator and
       | competitor if they had to problem solve on their way up there.
       | Records could be less about best times and more about how many
       | rounds did someone win in a row or something.
       | 
       | They could even still incorporate the one standardized wall
       | config as a speed round once in a while or integrate it into the
       | competition in some other way.
        
         | francis-li wrote:
         | The same wall config is only for the speed competition. There
         | has been debate about changing it though, cause like you said
         | they become muscle memory and hyper-optimized.
         | 
         | There are other forms of competition:
         | 
         | - bouldering: how many of 4 short boulder problems can you
         | finish
         | 
         | - lead: how high can you get on a longer, higher route
         | (pictured on the right of the image in the article)
         | 
         | In these ones the problems are switched up every competition.
        
           | carlmr wrote:
           | This is also why every climber complained about speed
           | climbing being a part of the climbing competition in the
           | previous Olympics.
           | 
           | It's an entirely different discipline. Seeing lead climbers
           | compete in speed climbing is like seeing Eliud Kipchoge
           | matched up with Usain Bolt for sprinting.
           | 
           | Boulder and lead are at least somewhat related, although I
           | still think it would be nice to see separate competitions
           | here, too.
        
             | Sander_Marechal wrote:
             | I hope they do split up bouldering and lead next olympics.
             | At least for Ai Mori's sake!
        
               | spuz wrote:
               | Indeed they will separate them at the 2028 LA Olympics.
               | There will be 3 separate medals for boulder, lead and
               | speed.
        
             | KaiserPro wrote:
             | > This is also why every climber complained about speed
             | climbing
             | 
             | not every climber. Its clearly a different discipline.
             | Thats why boldering/lead is separate from speed climbing.
             | 
             | But then lead is different to top rope and sport different
             | to trad. And indoor is very different to outdoor.
        
               | carlmr wrote:
               | > not every climber. Its clearly a different discipline.
               | Thats why boldering/lead is separate from speed climbing.
               | 
               | It wasn't separate in the previous Olympics, that's my
               | point.
               | 
               | >But then lead is different to top rope and sport
               | different to trad. And indoor is very different to
               | outdoor.
               | 
               | Except for trad most climbers I know do a mix of all of
               | these.
               | 
               | Speed climbing is just so different from everything else
               | that I don't even know one climber out of the hundred or
               | so that I know that does it regularly.
        
             | ebiester wrote:
             | I do think it'd be amazing to see a "decathlon-like"
             | competition where runners were measured in the 100, 1500,
             | and 10k cross country, though. Figuring out how to even it
             | out would be a chore, though.
        
         | lostlogin wrote:
         | > Seems bizarre to keep the same wall config for all of time.
         | The sport becomes about muscle memory more than anything else.
         | 
         | Plenty of other sport are pretty much the same each time,
         | particularly track and field.
        
           | Miraltar wrote:
           | Exactly, I don't understand people who watch any of the tracl
           | and field disciplines and complain about this wall being the
           | same everytime. Like there's about 10 different disciplines
           | of people running on a plain track and that's fine but people
           | climbing the same wall isn't. I totally get that you might
           | find lead or bouldering more interesting but that's not the
           | point.
        
         | LeonB wrote:
         | Once an activity has become a "competitive sport" it has a way
         | of prioritising "measurable" over meaningful or enjoyable. When
         | you develop a critical eye for this aspect of sport, the
         | Olympics stop being enjoyable and become an utter horror of
         | human maladjustment, a horrid parody of what it alleges to
         | stand for.
        
         | yallpendantools wrote:
         | I don't watch this event but, coming from other sports, I think
         | there's more to this than sheer muscle memory. Humans are not
         | machines. Sometimes you compete with ongoing or lingering
         | injuries. Conditioning changes even for the most disciplined of
         | athletes. All of these mean that a different approach might be
         | warranted for each event depending on your "set-up".
         | 
         | Not to mention other variables outside of the human body.
         | Perhaps the type of rope could matter in your performance. The
         | age of the holds could matter too; even when the governing body
         | standardizes on a replacement period for holds, I'm sure
         | competitors would have strong opinions about the difference
         | between a hold at the start of its service life versus one
         | about to be replaced.
         | 
         | Also, the one thing I love seeing in physical contests is how
         | competitors eke out the last bit of performance advantage with
         | sheer willpower. Muscle memory takes care of the actions but
         | performance and willpower is a conscious effort.
         | 
         | In short, no, I don't think competitors can literally turn off
         | their conscious brain and just let muscle memory take over. If
         | a field has jargon, there's a hell lot to geek over it.
        
           | tway_GdBRwW wrote:
           | And in further support of what you are saying, when I'm in
           | the flow state, either for programming or for workout or for
           | other hobbies, I am not conscious. That's kind-of the
           | definition of flow.
           | 
           | or people who describe an expert as someone who is
           | unconsciously competent, they no longer have to think about
           | what they are doing they just "know".
           | 
           | And as yallpendantools is saying, operating at that level of
           | expertise is much much more than sheer muscle memory, though
           | the muscle memory is critical. My typing skill certainly
           | helps me find flow in my programming work, I don't have to
           | think about how to type each letter, when I'm in flow the
           | ideas "just appear" on the screen.
           | 
           | So rather than saying the competitors turn off their
           | conscious brain, maybe it is better to say that they
           | transcend it?
        
         | devnullbrain wrote:
         | >as a ... competitor
         | 
         | Are you?
        
       | polynomial wrote:
       | How is this an off BY ONE error? (Pretty sure it's not.)
        
         | yallpendantools wrote:
         | > The fourth hold from the top in the right hand lane was _off
         | by one_ with respect to its counterpart in the left hand lane.
        
         | crote wrote:
         | The grips are placed on a grid. It was supposed to be at, say,
         | (43,55) but actually placed at (42,55).
        
           | Aardwolf wrote:
           | While that's indeed literally off by one, typically in
           | programming an off by one error is a fence post error: if you
           | have 4 fence posts, there are 3 sections in-between the fence
           | posts, and off by one errors are about mistaking those two
           | things. That's not really what happened in this climbing grip
           | coordinates scenario here.
        
             | KaiserPro wrote:
             | I realise that by arguing the semantics, and am making this
             | worse.
             | 
             | However
             | 
             | Off by one is the error, not the cause. sure, a lot of off
             | by one errors are caused by index starting confusion, but
             | not all. The hold is clearly off by one. thus its a "real
             | life" off by one error.
        
       | autarch wrote:
       | > Maybe when the record is unbeaten for more than a couple of
       | years they should throw it all away and start with a brand new
       | route?
       | 
       | There's been some discussion of having new speed routes every few
       | years. I think this would make the event a thousand times more
       | interesting. That said, I'm still not sure I'd be interested.
        
         | Miraltar wrote:
         | It would be terrible from an athlete perspective
        
         | zelos wrote:
         | How about a route pool like an esports map pool?
        
         | devnullbrain wrote:
         | There's a misconception that a quadrennial sports festival.
         | Actually, they're a quadrennial festival for people who never
         | cared about the sport before to explain how it should be fixed.
        
           | whycome wrote:
           | QGM
        
       | PeterStuer wrote:
       | Little known trivia: the code that won the RSA rc5 56bit
       | challange had an off by 1 error.
       | 
       | https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/library/cyber/we...
        
         | Anunayj wrote:
         | Where was the off by one error? I read the article and didn't
         | find any mention of it.
        
           | PeterStuer wrote:
           | I haven't seen it reported anywhere. It was my machine that
           | found the key. To commemorate the event a plaque was made and
           | permanently attached to the case. If it is still in the
           | archives somewhere, the plaque lists the key reported as
           | found by the client, which you would see is one off from the
           | actual key that was the solution.
           | 
           | I never asked the distributed.net team, but I always
           | suspected this was intentional to maybe thwart people from
           | front-running a submission, so not truly a bug. If Adam, Jeff
           | or David read this, maybe they could chime in.
        
       | actionfromafar wrote:
       | https://www.formulanon.com/movement/mrhp8j3hijw97sdl1krno2el...
        
         | leejo wrote:
         | If you're curious about those, they're all photos of the
         | various sporting events that happen in the village here. All
         | the effects you see are captured in camera through movements or
         | otherwise.
        
       | dwighttk wrote:
       | >The kicker is that the out of place hold hasn't been used in a
       | long time.
       | 
       | I'm guessing the belay rope issue was real and the actual cause
       | of the other lane always winning then.
        
       | philip1209 wrote:
       | That's funny.
       | 
       | I discovered an off-by-one error in college as I was graduating.
       | Apparently the "class plan" I had put together with an advisor
       | during my second year was missing a class, and I discovered it as
       | I petitioned it for graduation. "You're one class short."
       | 
       | (It was for my second major, not the primary one, and the head of
       | the physics department was nice enough to credit a nonlinear
       | optimization course from engineering toward the major, so I
       | earned it.)
        
         | tomrod wrote:
         | I had a similar experience in getting a Math BS after finishing
         | an Econ BA (which, for my school, was notoriously short and was
         | not seen as sufficient to prepare you for economics graduate
         | work).
         | 
         | The deal with my Math dept head was I had to make it my primary
         | major (no true doubles at my weird undergrad, had to have an
         | "additional"). It was a deal I was happy to make if it meant
         | skipping an intro-to-proofs course after having taken the
         | masters level series in most the of the fields they offered!
        
       | NeoTar wrote:
       | In terms of real-life off-by-one errors, it's hard to beat the
       | town of Wemding in Bavaria (Germany).
       | 
       | Here a pyramid of 120 blocks is planned, with one placed every
       | ten years. It started on the 1200th anniversary of the town, and
       | is planned to be complete 1200 years later... and I'm sure you've
       | spotted the problem.
       | 
       | Matt Parker, the 'stand-up Mathematician' has a video on it:
       | https://youtu.be/FAdmpAZTH_M?si=_u8fM-fprUWiEqZ9
        
       | 10-22-38Astoria wrote:
       | My favorite off by one error is that the index of a count down is
       | always one less than the amount that you subtracted. This means
       | if you count up and down at the same time, you won't count the
       | middle number twice.
       | 
       | 1: 1, 10 :0
       | 
       | 2: 2, 9 :-1
       | 
       | 3: 3, 8 :-2
       | 
       | 4: 4, 7 :-3
       | 
       | 5: 5, 6 :-4
       | 
       | Since the sum on each line is 11, the sum of all the numbers from
       | one to ten is 55.
       | 
       | The cool thing is that this generalizes
       | 
       | 1: 1, N : 0
       | 
       | 2: 2, N - 1 :-1
       | 
       | 3: 3, N - 2 :-2 <-sum is N+1
       | 
       | ...
       | 
       | N/2: N/2, N -(N/2)+1 => N/2+1
       | 
       | So the sum of N numbers is N/2 * (N/2+N/2+1) => N/2 * (N+1) if N
       | is even.
       | 
       | It appears to be broken for odd numbers
       | 
       | 1: 1, 9 :0
       | 
       | 2: 2, 8 :-1
       | 
       | 3: 3, 7 :-2
       | 
       | 4: 4, 6 :-3
       | 
       | 5: 5, 0 :-4 <- can't reuse 5
       | 
       | But for odds, setting the odd number K equal to N+1, N is an even
       | number so the total sum is sum(N) + N+1. We showed that sum(N) =
       | N/2 *(N+1). So we have N/2 * (N+1) + (N+1).
       | 
       | But that means N/2+1 * (N+1) equals sum(K)
       | 
       | => (N+2)/2 * (N+1)
       | 
       | => (K+1)/2 * K
       | 
       | So the formula N/2 * (N+1) computes the sum of N numbers if N is
       | odd too! It works for all numbers. Wow!
       | 
       | [Edit: Formatting]
        
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