[HN Gopher] Eating the Birds of America: Audubon's Culinary Revi...
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       Eating the Birds of America: Audubon's Culinary Reviews of
       America's Birds
        
       Author : Morizero
       Score  : 98 points
       Date   : 2024-08-26 16:55 UTC (6 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (usbirdhistory.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (usbirdhistory.com)
        
       | burcs wrote:
       | Of course our national bird would be "veal in taste and
       | tenderness." The Bald Eagle truly is the modern day forbidden
       | fruit.
        
         | saalweachter wrote:
         | There's a reason the Bald Eagle won out over the Turkey for
         | national bird.
        
         | dwcnnnghm wrote:
         | Japan's national bird (green pheasant) is, IIRC, the only
         | national bird that's also a game bird. There's not many stories
         | or symbolism with green pheasants (as opposed to, say, cranes)
         | and it's mostly known in the country as food. I've seen it
         | argued that it was selected because it's delicious (though the
         | official line seems to be their ability to recognize
         | earthquakes)
        
           | paranoidrobot wrote:
           | The animals on Australia's coat of arms: Emu and Kangaroo,
           | are both able to be eaten. The Emu is our national bird.
           | 
           | I don't know if they're technically game meats but I can buy
           | them both commercially. Kangaroo meat is in most
           | supermarkets, and Emu in speciality butchers.
        
           | seszett wrote:
           | > _Japan's national bird (green pheasant) is, IIRC, the only
           | national bird that's also a game bird_
           | 
           | France's national bird is the rooster, it's not really a game
           | bird but it's definitely eaten.
        
           | Ichthypresbyter wrote:
           | >Japan's national bird (green pheasant) is, IIRC, the only
           | national bird that's also a game bird.
           | 
           | Pakistan and Gibraltar both have national birds that are
           | partridges (the chukar and the Barbary partridge
           | respectively).
        
         | alaxsxaq wrote:
         | I live in an area where there are plentiful eagles and I never
         | heard of anyone eating one. I kayak around some islands in a
         | nearby river where eagles nest and frequently encounter people
         | at boat landings inquiring about eagle feathers. The laws
         | around that stuff are pretty harsh - I always figured them to
         | be under-cover Feds.
        
           | xattt wrote:
           | I don't believe there are carnivorous and scavenger birds
           | that are eaten for food.
        
             | cmrdporcupine wrote:
             | We eat omnivorous birds though (chickens, esp)
        
           | kbelder wrote:
           | Reminds me of an old joke about sick eagles that ends with
           | the punchline "ill eagle feathers!"
        
         | jfengel wrote:
         | I'm skeptical. Eagles have well-worked muscles, which are
         | usually tough. And they're carrion eaters, which are rarely
         | delicious.
         | 
         | I haven't tried one, of course, so perhaps reality differs from
         | theory. But I wonder if somebody's not telling the truth here
         | (him, or his cook).
        
           | KineticLensman wrote:
           | Lots of eagles eat freshly caught fish, not carrion
        
       | sebmellen wrote:
       | How interesting that Audubon, so often associated with
       | conservation and protection of birds, was such a voracious bird
       | consumer! Wild!
        
         | shagie wrote:
         | The National Audubon Society (founded 1905) is about
         | conversation (accursed auto incorrect) conservation of birds.
         | (thank you!)
         | 
         | John James Audubon (1785 - 1851) was a very different person.
         | He was a naturalist, painter, and studied ornithology... and
         | his ethics were from that age.
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_James_Audubon#Art_and_met...
         | 
         | > Audubon developed his own methods for drawing birds. First,
         | he killed them using fine shot. He then used wires to prop them
         | into a natural position, unlike the common method of many
         | ornithologists, who prepared and stuffed the specimens into a
         | rigid pose. When working on a major specimen like an eagle, he
         | would spend up to four 15-hour days, preparing, studying, and
         | drawing it.
         | 
         | I recall a story with an eagle where he was trying to
         | asphyxiate it with smoke (so that he wouldn't damage it) - the
         | means and the time it took to do that would be considered by
         | today's standards to be quite cruel.
        
           | pvg wrote:
           | _conversation of birds_
           | 
           | over a delectable meal of birds, no doubt.
        
         | gottorf wrote:
         | I'm told that hunters drive quite a bit of conservation efforts
         | for other animals as well.
        
           | JumpCrisscross wrote:
           | > _hunters drive quite a bit of conservation efforts_
           | 
           | Hunters are generally exquisitely knowlegeable about the
           | local flora and fauna. That sort of knowledge rarely
           | accumulates without an element of respect. Some of the most
           | effective conservation efforts in the world arose from
           | environmentalists and hunters allying against developers and
           | ranchers. (And by extension, some of the biggest conservation
           | losses from the latter driving a wedge between the former.)
        
           | wepple wrote:
           | Whilst hunting might involve the killing & taking of an
           | animal, it 100% relies on there being a healthy population to
           | begin with.
           | 
           | Not to mention, hunting is actually very difficult (contrary
           | to a lot of belief). You end up spending a phenomenal amount
           | of time learning about animals, their habitat, and behavior.
           | There ends up being deep admiration.
           | 
           | Not all hunters of course, some are dipshits. But such is
           | true for any group of people.
        
             | bbarn wrote:
             | | Not to mention, hunting is actually very difficult
             | (contrary to a lot of belief).
             | 
             | This always bothered me. The attitude that you just walk up
             | to some defenseless deer and shoot it and that's some
             | unskilled cruel thing.
             | 
             | In reality it's hours or days in a row in a short amount of
             | time a season is open sitting in miserable weather where
             | hopefully the research you've done or the attempts to
             | attract them might outweigh the fact that they can smell
             | you from a mile away and are skittish at every sound in the
             | world. Oh, and the practice and training you've had to do
             | with whatever method you're using to hunt with.
             | 
             | Then there's the expense. Licenses, weapons, gear, time off
             | work, you name it. I quit doing it simply because I don't
             | have the time to invest in it as an adult.
        
               | floren wrote:
               | > sitting in miserable weather
               | 
               | Only in some parts of country... further west you're
               | frequently hiking miles and miles (in miserable weather)
               | instead.
        
               | ethbr1 wrote:
               | There's the big split in types of hunters, as well.
               | 
               | You've got hunters whose goal is the challenge and
               | experience.
               | 
               | And then you've got the assholes only interested in "How
               | much do I have to spend to guarantee I kill a ____?"
               | 
               | The latter leads to baiting, driving, scouting, and all
               | the other activities that turn "hunting" into a single
               | trigger pull.
               | 
               | Unsurprisingly, those people tend to have a lot less
               | respect for land, environment, and animal populations. No
               | effort, no respect.
        
               | floren wrote:
               | I'm mostly on board with you but what kind of "scouting"
               | are you thinking of here? When I talk about scouting
               | before a hunt, I'm talking about wandering around the
               | countryside, looking for animals, looking for scat, etc.
        
             | genocidicbunny wrote:
             | One of my family members used to have a home out in a
             | forested area, with access to a lake that had lots of fish
             | in it. Not long after the fall of the soviet union, someone
             | bought one of the nearby properties, and started fishing
             | the lake with explosives. Within several years the lake had
             | basically no fish left because of how indiscriminant the
             | fishing method was. The family member and some of the other
             | people who had access to the lake finally managed to drive
             | out the dynamite-laden arsehole, but by then the damage was
             | done. Even 20+ years later the fish population in the lake
             | hasn't recovered.
        
         | cjensen wrote:
         | In Audubon's time, the only way to accurately paint a bird in
         | detail was to shoot it, examine it, then paint it. It's also
         | why so many of his paintings are of birds in unnatural
         | positions.
         | 
         | Even today, museums and universities sometimes pay for non-rare
         | birds to be collected by shotgun. Collections are needed for
         | certain types of comparative analysis when trying to sus out
         | whether two birds are different species or just variety within
         | a species.
        
       | alnwlsn wrote:
       | from Wikipedia - "Carolina parakeets were probably poisonous -
       | Audubon noted that cats apparently died from eating them, and
       | they are known to have eaten the toxic seeds of cockleburs."
       | 
       | Interesting that this apparently didn't stop him from eating one.
        
         | sharpshadow wrote:
         | I think toxins distribute in various areas with different
         | amounts in the body. Eating the flesh should have less than
         | some organs I guess. Cats probably eat everything and they are
         | quite small.
         | 
         | After a while the toxins wear off.
        
       | jihadjihad wrote:
       | I'm reminded of the Ortolan Bunting, a bird prized in French
       | cuisine and with a most unforgettable method of preparation and
       | consumption.
       | 
       | They're caught with nets, force-fed with grain, drowned in
       | Armagnac, seasoned, and then cooked in their own fat. When you
       | eat one, you hold onto its head and place it feet-first into your
       | mouth, all while wearing a towel or napkin on your head to
       | "shield from God's eyes the shame of such a decadent and
       | disgraceful act" [0].
       | 
       | 0:
       | https://web.archive.org/web/20210303221803/https://www.teleg...
        
         | rwmj wrote:
         | Unfortunately not a historic curiosity. I know somehow who ate
         | one in France a decade or so ago.
        
           | JumpCrisscross wrote:
           | > _know somehow who ate one in France a decade or so ago_
           | 
           | Technically banned for over a decade, FYI [1].
           | 
           | [1]
           | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ortolan_bunting#Legal_status
        
         | AdmiralAsshat wrote:
         | First the foie gras, now this. Are there any other "Torture the
         | creature before eating it" French dishes we should know about?
        
           | alnwlsn wrote:
           | Lobster?
        
             | AdmiralAsshat wrote:
             | I'm not aware of any recipes that force the lobster to
             | gorge itself before killing it? Most lobster recipes
             | usually involve bisecting the lobster's head with a sharp
             | knife (killing it instantly), or dunking it into boiling
             | water (which is probably incredibly painful for the
             | duration, but _ostensibly_ kills it within 10 seconds or
             | so).
        
               | darby_nine wrote:
               | > I'm not aware of any recipes that force the lobster to
               | gorge itself before killing it?
               | 
               | Presumably the above poster is referring to the viewing
               | of the practice of boiling the lobster alive as torture.
        
               | Morizero wrote:
               | Not OP but yeah, it's even illegal in some places:
               | https://i.redd.it/9njvxxae6pad1.png
        
           | dfxm12 wrote:
           | Why single out France or foie gras? When you look at factory
           | farms across the globe, force feeding ducks is just one of
           | many ways we torture the animals we eat.
        
             | codetrotter wrote:
             | > Why single out France or four gras?
             | 
             | Because foie gras is defined as the liver of a duck or
             | goose fattened by force feeding.
             | 
             | If the animal wasn't force fed, it literally wouldn't be
             | foie gras.
             | 
             | Most other forms of animal cruelty in food production is
             | because of industrialization. We could clean up many of
             | those and still sell the products without so much
             | mistreatment.
             | 
             | Foie gras can only be made by mistreating the animal. So
             | it's gonna be specifically called out.
        
               | lechatpito1 wrote:
               | This is a misconception, migrating birds naturally
               | overfeed before taking their long flights [1] and a few
               | farms actually produce natural foie gras [2]. There was
               | also a NYT article about a farm in Spain producing
               | natural goose foie gras by trapping migrating geese. [ref
               | needed]
               | 
               | Obviously this is totally marginal compared to the size
               | of foie gras industry.
               | 
               | See
               | 
               | [1] https://honest-food.net/wild-foie-gras-is-real/
               | 
               | [2] https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-
               | wine/food-tren...
               | 
               | [3] https://modcarn.com/natural-foie-gras-in-the-wild/
        
               | iamacyborg wrote:
               | > Foie gras can only be made by mistreating the animal.
               | 
               | This is not true.
        
               | salad-tycoon wrote:
               | Mistreating? They sure like to eat. Mistreatment if you
               | were aiming for a long healthy life but this may not be
               | what you are assuming it to be.
        
               | Loughla wrote:
               | It's certainly mistreatment. They're fed until they can
               | literally hold no more. It's not great.
        
           | dgacmu wrote:
           | Not french per se, but the victorians also ate "slink veal" -
           | an unborn calf either spontaneously aborted or removed from
           | the carcass after slaughter. Not too popular (or legal)
           | today.
        
         | wepple wrote:
         | I recall reading about this in "The Scavengers Guide to Haute
         | Cuisine". In it. Steven Rinella creates a feast from
         | Escoffier's classic book. Excellent read.
        
         | BoingBoomTschak wrote:
         | "Brutal."
        
         | 01HNNWZ0MV43FF wrote:
         | Evidence for solipsism, I say!
        
       | office_drone wrote:
       | > When they feed on grasshoppers and strawberries, Upland
       | Sandpipers are "truly delicious."
       | 
       | In our era where foodies exist and some number of them have
       | effectively no spending limit, I wonder if any business raises
       | sandpipers for use in a truly rare dining experience.
        
         | bwestergard wrote:
         | They are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty, and in the
         | U.S. under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
        
           | office_drone wrote:
           | That just means that certain permits may be needed, and only
           | in two countries out of the bird's natural range of two
           | dozen.
        
         | foreigner wrote:
         | This is the plot of "The Freshman", which is an excellent
         | movie. Starring Matthew Broderick, and featuring Marlon Brando
         | parodying himself in The Godfather!
        
       | federalfarmer wrote:
       | We did some pest control on the farm this year and thinned out
       | the pigeon population. A delicious bird, tasted like steak. I
       | understand why they remain a delicacy in France and Vietnam.
       | 
       | A shame that some of these less delectable birds are still
       | extinct.
       | 
       | Thanks for sharing!
        
         | perihelions wrote:
         | Also in the Maghreb! I believe that's where France imported the
         | concept from (but I'm not sure).
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pastilla
        
           | federalfarmer wrote:
           | Pigeon pie is now a bucket list delicacy.
        
       | ForOldHack wrote:
       | Obligatory:
       | 
       | The Endangered species cook book:
       | 
       | https://elizabethdemaray.org/2015/06/07/recipes-from-the-end...
        
       | diegoeche wrote:
       | There's a graphic novel I liked about the life and work of
       | Audubon. For anybody interested...
       | 
       | Audubon, On The Wings Of The World
        
       | KineticLensman wrote:
       | Why stop at birds? The Victorian William Buckland [0] had a
       | personal mission to eat one of every kind of animal in existence.
       | He was also appointed Dean of Westminster and, like Charles
       | Darwin, belonged to the Glutton Club. Mice on toast were a
       | particular favourite, apparently.
       | 
       | [0] https://www.thevintagenews.com/2018/08/26/victorian-
       | zoologis...
        
         | djtango wrote:
         | Thanks for sharing, thoroughly enjoyed that read
        
         | Loughla wrote:
         | I was into it until he ate a mummified human heart.
        
       | chasebank wrote:
       | Funny this popped up on hn. A friend of mine in Montana has been
       | hunting crane lately. Said they're dubbed "ribeye of the sky".
       | Can't wait to try one!
        
       | simonw wrote:
       | My partner works in conservation and goes to a lot of wildlife
       | conferences. One of her favourite ice-breaker questions is "have
       | you ever eaten your study animal?"
        
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