[HN Gopher] Designing my own watch (2020)
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       Designing my own watch (2020)
        
       Author : handfuloflight
       Score  : 200 points
       Date   : 2024-08-22 03:41 UTC (13 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (willem.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (willem.com)
        
       | snypher wrote:
       | A great point made by saying a watch is such a personal
       | preference. This watch is very well constructed from the best
       | materials but I would never want to wear it myself. I'm happy the
       | author likes it!
        
       | egypturnash wrote:
       | If you are wondering how much this thing cost, a quick look at
       | the watch company's site suggests that this was at least us$20k.
        
         | userbinator wrote:
         | Not cheap, but if you look at what other expensive watches
         | cost, it's actually comparable.
        
           | irjustin wrote:
           | And that comes with a custom watch w/ a design cycle. I guess
           | instead of paying for a store-front, sales people,
           | advertising - this is where the cost would live.
        
         | er4hn wrote:
         | Probably closer to 10 - 15k usd. It's
         | https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/annual-calendar/ which
         | starts at CHF 8'800 / 10.3k USD.
         | 
         | It's not completely custom, i.e. ochs und junior is using their
         | own design, but the blog post is a lovely showcase of why he
         | loves the watch, and watches in general.
        
         | system2 wrote:
         | Spending 20k to talk about "my own design" hipster watch. Must
         | be nice to be that rich.
        
         | _zoltan_ wrote:
         | I know a fair amount of people with watches in this range or
         | above, none of them custom. For a custom one this is fairly OK,
         | I'd even say cheap...
         | 
         | (I live in .ch, where people love watched a bit more than I've
         | experienced elsewhere)
        
         | eps wrote:
         | Ouch, that watch does _not_ have a $20k polish to it. Nowhere
         | close. Neither the dial, nor the hands, nor the case.
         | 
         | $20k is in a ballpark of a Ressence watch [1], which, given a
         | choice, I would choose without any hesitation.
         | 
         | [1] https://ressencewatches.com
        
           | maeln wrote:
           | Reading the article, the unpolished finished is part of the
           | aesthetic he seems to be going for.
        
           | hnlmorg wrote:
           | Those don't conform to the authors requirements.
           | 
           | The reason he landed on that design is pretty well detailed
           | in the article too.
        
           | mrb wrote:
           | If you value polish, go with your Ressence. If you value a
           | custom watch that matches exactly your specifications, OP's
           | choice is perfectly fine. It's obvious he will get more
           | enjoyment that way of his money spent. Nothing wrong here.
        
       | eternityforest wrote:
       | I'm a big fan of modern tech and I don't think I'd enjoy wearing
       | anything that expensive!
       | 
       | But it's a really cool piece of art and I thought the depth of
       | the dial was especially interesting. From afar or in pictures, a
       | watch looks like a 2D display, and since we mostly only see them
       | in pictures, it's easy to forget that a lot of analog tech was
       | subtlety 3D.
       | 
       | With most natural objects, when you see a picture it's obvious
       | it's just a picture and there's a third dimension, but with
       | mechanical devices it sort of feels like you're looking at a
       | picture of an old fashioned screen, and you never notice that
       | there's depth you don't see.
       | 
       | Highlighting that aspect is a really cool design choice.
        
         | timr wrote:
         | The weird thing about a watch like this is that nobody is going
         | to know enough to steal it unless you tell them what it is
         | (or...put it on the internet, I guess). It's also small and
         | super low-key, and therefore, not at all hip in today's watch
         | market.
         | 
         | You're more likely to have your phone stolen. Thieves are all
         | about risk/reward: they want your Rolex Sub or your (gaudy,
         | ugly, huge) Royal Oak, which they know they can flip for a huge
         | profit.
        
           | willemlaurentz wrote:
           | author (from 2020) here:
           | 
           | This is exactly true: the watch offers a kind of "security by
           | obscurity" most better known watches lack.
           | 
           | It is a "if you known you know" thing. At the same time it is
           | a very hard sell (for any potential thief looking for quick
           | money) as the watch is unique in its configuration and mostly
           | "meaningless" for other people (rather than me).
        
           | eternityforest wrote:
           | I'd be a lot more worried about damaging it then theft, since
           | I'm constantly running into furniture
        
             | Arainach wrote:
             | Anything you own will eventually get scratched. Past
             | bracelet scratches, mechanical watches are rather hardy -
             | unless you're buying something particularly rare and
             | complicated the standard ETA and Seiko movements you'll get
             | in most brands (as well as the house movements of major
             | brands such as Omega and Rolex) will handle physical shocks
             | just fine. I don't exercise wearing a mechanical watch, but
             | that's as much due to sweat and weight and tracking heart
             | rate as any risk of damage.
             | 
             | You can get comparatively affordable mechanical watches
             | that are sufficiently shock, magnetism, and water resistant
             | to do anything normal people will do in their lives. If
             | you're an underwater welder, astronaut, EE professor, or
             | other career with esoteric risks, obviously do your own
             | research and maybe just buy a GShock.
        
       | dools wrote:
       | Some tangentially related trivia: in The Hitchhiker's Guide to
       | the Galaxy Douglas Adams writes:
       | 
       | "Orbiting this at a distance of roughly ninety-two million miles
       | is an utterly insignificant little blue green planet whose ape-
       | descended life forms are so amazingly primitive that they still
       | think digital watches are a pretty neat idea."
       | 
       | My interpretation of this was that digital watches are such
       | simple technology that the fact we like them means we are easily
       | impressed.
       | 
       | His thesis was much deeper though and I have since found multiple
       | accounts of his explaining that, at the same time as everyone was
       | excited about the fact that pie charts could be produced to
       | easily visualise data on a personal computer, we were also
       | removing what is essentially a pie chart from our wrists and
       | replacing it with something numerical. Here it is straight from
       | the horses mouth:
       | 
       | https://youtube.com/watch?v=P0keUhMiZ44
        
         | saurik wrote:
         | I rather enjoyed the video essay Technology Connections did
         | about the seemingly different mental models of tracking time
         | that come from analog and digital clocks, and how a lot of
         | people now have barely ever experienced analog clocks.
         | 
         | https://youtube.com/watch?v=NeopkvAP-ag
        
           | bux93 wrote:
           | After a decade or two of not wearing watches, and always
           | looking at my laptop or phone for the time, analogue stopped
           | making sense to me. I recently got a gorgeous casio lineage
           | radio controlled (and solar powered) analogue watch, so I had
           | to relearn telling the time!
           | 
           | Like Technology Connections says, the minute hand is a
           | progress bar, but I found I got confused about the hour hand.
           | It points at, apparently, 5 o'clock, but it's actually 4:55,
           | because the hand just doesn't line up so precisely in the
           | visual field. A watch with just the hour hand would be less
           | accurate, but less confusing.
           | 
           | I since found out about jump hour watches, that display the
           | current hour as a digit (in a little window like you see for
           | the date) and have a minute hand. That makes more sense to
           | me.
        
         | necovek wrote:
         | That's wonderful, thanks for sharing: Adams is extremely
         | cunning in his satirical look at the humanity.
         | 
         | Not that I agree: "pie charts" for tracking time (and
         | otherwise) are useful when you need to roughly and quickly
         | compare how much time is left in a day.
         | 
         | But we have since moved to it being important if something
         | happens in 14:37 or 14:42, which is hard and slow to decipher
         | on a pie chart.
         | 
         | Now, one could argue we are primitive if we have moved in that
         | direction instead of being more lax with time instead.
        
         | namanyayg wrote:
         | I've been a ardent fan since I first read H2G2 ~15 years ago,
         | and this is the first time I've seen and heard Adams speak.
         | Thanks for sharing.
        
         | namdnay wrote:
         | I was convinced that it was because at the time h2g2 was
         | written, "digital watches" were actually LED watches, which
         | required that the user press a button to see the time displayed
         | for a few seconds! (also the case for some of the first LCD
         | models)
         | 
         | low power LCD watches were popularised in the early 80s
        
       | userbinator wrote:
       | _The watch is a so-called "annual calendar", which means it can
       | show the correct date with only one manual adjustment per year
       | (during February). An annual calendar "knows" the difference
       | between short and longer months._
       | 
       | I could see how one could create a simple mechanism for that (the
       | expression is basically 30+(m+(m&8)&1)-(m==2)* 2, a sort of odd-
       | even sequence with a discontinuity), but staring at the diagram
       | it doesn't seem to make sense - the month disk rotates a little
       | bit each hour, and the date ring is driven off the month disk?
        
         | wezdog1 wrote:
         | It looks like the disks can rotate and still show the same day
         | or month due to the stretched markings
        
         | cpcallen wrote:
         | As I understand it:
         | 
         | - The base movement turns the date wheel every day at (or,
         | typically, just before) midnight via the 31 teeth on that
         | wheel.
         | 
         | - The single tooth on the date wheel drives the five-pointed
         | cog. I gather that this must turn the month wheel two teeth--
         | probably one tooth when changing from 30th to 31st and a second
         | tooth when changing from 31st to 1st, though I do not see
         | exactly how this works. (It looks like the date wheel finger
         | would only turn the small cog one tooth per month, and the
         | small teeth on that cog look like they would only interact with
         | the longer teeth on the month cog.) On short months the long
         | teeth on the month wheel are in turn are nudged by the second,
         | shorter finger on the hour collar at about 3am on the 1st
         | (while the date wheel is still showing 31), which causes the
         | month wheel to advance the second tooth almost a day early, and
         | this must cause the five-pointed cog to nudge the date wheel to
         | advance from the 31st to the 1st (though again I am not sure
         | exactly how that works).
         | 
         | - The long finger on the hour collar turns the day-of-week disk
         | 1/14th turn at 6am and 6pm, resulting in that wheel making a
         | complete turn every 7 days. Thanks to the long dash of colour
         | on this wheel, one dot is shown 6am-6pm while two dots are
         | shown 6pm-6am.
         | 
         | Watchfinder made a pretty good video about it, though slightly
         | hampered by the owner of this particular watch having chosen
         | just about the lowest-possible contrast colours for the
         | indicator dots: https://youtu.be/28LYcZJ6hHE
        
       | timonoko wrote:
       | I re-redesigned my own watchface. The result is that the hour-
       | indicator grew bigger and bigger, because that is the main need
       | when the sun is not shining. https://github.com/timonoko/Amazfit
        
         | timonoko wrote:
         | That was the last watch with "trans-reflective" display. If I
         | turn the seconds-indicator off, it runs for a MONTH aka 700
         | hours.
         | 
         |  _Our goal for battery life is 18 hours after an overnight
         | charge_ -- Apple Watch
        
           | sam_lowry_ wrote:
           | Amazfit watches and their custom faces were amazing!
           | 
           | Not very durable, though. I bought one for each family member
           | once and loaded a custom face.
           | 
           | That is more fun that commissioning a 20000$ watch from a
           | Swiss watchmaker.
        
             | timonoko wrote:
             | Only problem is that the strap turned into spaghetti in 4
             | years. Battery life is still OK.
        
           | KTibow wrote:
           | Do you mean the last watch under that brand? There are
           | definitely others (eg my Bangle.js could go for a week
           | without a charge)
        
       | kijin wrote:
       | > day and night: with a young kid, the distinction between night
       | and day becomes fuzzy every now and then.., any bearing the watch
       | can provide in total darkness is welcome!
       | 
       | Hmm, I don't see any feature on the watch that would help OP tell
       | whether it's 7 am or 7 pm under a cloudy sky. Am I missing a
       | subtle 24-hour indicator, or is he just referring to the super-
       | luminova on the hands and dial?
        
         | wezdog1 wrote:
         | You'd think the marker under the weekday could be a different
         | colour when it shifts to pm
        
         | matejn wrote:
         | If I understood the watch website correctly, the weekday marker
         | shows 2 dots instead of 1 during AM.
        
       | zombot wrote:
       | I am pleased to see a Junghans Max Bill watch smack at the center
       | of the top display. The other ones are way too busy for my taste,
       | except maybe the digital Seiko.
       | 
       | The self-designed watch camouflages its functionality with
       | minimalism, and the day and month displays proceed in
       | mathematically positive direction. I like it.
        
         | stevekemp wrote:
         | For my money the Milgauss is the standout of that montage. I've
         | always loved the "quirky" colours, and the lightning-bolt hand
         | stands out a little.
         | 
         | But watches are pretty personal, and it's okay to have
         | different tastes. I like that the author knew what was
         | important to them - for me I avoid Roman Numerals, and subdials
         | as both look too busy. I try to avoid date-complications for
         | the same reason, and if I must have them I abhor the cyclops.
         | 
         | My watches range from the casio terrorist, through mass-
         | produced soviet pieces that were made before I was born, all
         | the way to high end Swiss pieces. I still wake up and change my
         | watch based on what kinda mood I'm in, or what I'm doing.
        
       | tonetegeatinst wrote:
       | Side note on watches, every time I consider buying a watch I
       | always am drawn to the metal strap/band. I don't mind leather or
       | cloth but personally metal seems like it would be smoother on the
       | skin....and if I need to clean the band I just throw it in an
       | ultrasonic cleaner
        
         | Hamuko wrote:
         | Metal bands are a bitch if you ever need to type on a laptop
         | though.
        
         | bigstrat2003 wrote:
         | I actually found the opposite - metal bands tend to pinch me
         | due to the segmented design. Other materials where the strap is
         | all one piece are much more comfortable to wear.
        
         | weinzierl wrote:
         | Not sure if it is because I had bad quality metal bands or I am
         | just too hairy. The ones I had were far from _Swiss Watch_
         | level but I wouldn 't call them cheap. I always had the problem
         | that they hurt because they ripped out small hairs.
         | 
         | It's nice that you can shake off any water from them and they
         | are instantly dry and also that you can thoroughly clean them.
        
         | eleveriven wrote:
         | One thing to keep in mind is that metal bands can sometimes be
         | heavier and less flexible than leather or cloth
        
         | alinoe_ wrote:
         | It's almost always better and cheaper to get the bracelet with
         | the watch and buy the strap later. Good quality/branded
         | bracelets are expensive.
        
       | f1shy wrote:
       | With pretty much same requirements, I settled in the Casio
       | LCW-M100TSE-1AER. Very simple, totally autonomous, no need to
       | adjust time even...
       | 
       | Better would be a Seiko with GPS, but too expensive.
        
         | rayxi271828 wrote:
         | Exactly... add to that the requirement that I want to have the
         | peace of mind of being able to accidentally bang the watch
         | against the metal poles of the subway, etc., without damaging
         | it in some ways, and I always end up with a G-Shock.
        
         | RachelF wrote:
         | For a digital-only lightweight alternative that does everything
         | a watch should do, the Casio F-E10 is ideal.
        
           | flacebo wrote:
           | I wouldn't consider that an alternative to a solar radio
           | watch.
        
         | darkFunction wrote:
         | I also wear this watch every day and have done for a couple of
         | years now. It's the perfect watch- completely autonomous time,
         | solar powered, classic look while still having digital
         | functions. I love not having to worry about ever setting the
         | time or changing the battery. And it's waterproof!
         | 
         | The sapphire glass means I don't treat it especially well and
         | it looks brand new.
        
         | mhandley wrote:
         | I have exactly the same watch for exactly the same reasons.
         | With saphire glass and a titanium case and strap, it's very
         | light and after two years of being worn constantly, it's still
         | completely unmarked. It's also nicely inconspicuous - it's
         | "just a casio", but those who know, know.
        
         | bux93 wrote:
         | It also has a more complicated (chronograph) brother, the
         | LIW-M610. It's fun to see the hands in the subdials spin around
         | as you change functions and timezones.
        
         | epse wrote:
         | The rather mild water resistance on that model always has me
         | doubting..
        
         | eleveriven wrote:
         | The Casio LCW-M100TSE-1AER is a solid choice!
        
       | mnot wrote:
       | I've been lusting after an Ochs und Junior for a while now --
       | very clever and great design. Implementing complications like
       | perpetual calendars off of workhorse calibres is just amazing.
        
       | ein0p wrote:
       | This strikes me as a better compromise than a high end mass
       | produced watch. If you wanted to stand out and wear a
       | conversation piece, this seems like a better choice.
        
         | willemlaurentz wrote:
         | Original author here (from 2020):
         | 
         | Thanks! A watch (like any apparel) indeed functions as a
         | communication piece (other than its function of time keeping).
         | 
         | Over the years of wearing it I have had only some folks
         | inquiring about what it exactly is I am wearing. People ask out
         | of honest curiosity, not because they suspect some value
         | (because of a shiny logo or precious metal).
         | 
         | For what it is worth, in addition to the having the actual
         | watch it is also nice to know the people who created it. It is
         | a very small brand, you really have a chance of getting to know
         | the "artists behind the creation". I like that as it adds to
         | the (personal satisfaction) of the story of my watch.
        
       | tetris11 wrote:
       | I've been looking for a decent watch of my own, albeit it much
       | cheaper.
       | 
       | My requirements are simple: eink/epaper display, a splash of
       | color (red would be fine), circular display, light/visible at
       | night, programmable watch face.
       | 
       | Closest thing I've seen is watchy, wearPico, bangle.js, but they
       | all seem slightly wrong somehow.
        
         | dpoljak wrote:
         | Can't guarantee for the splash of color but I've had my eye on
         | Fossil Hybrid smartwatch gen 6 for everything else you
         | mentioned. It's maybe worth a look?
        
         | eps wrote:
         | Look at Garmin MIP (memory in pixel) watches?
         | 
         | You can make your own watch face in a half of weekend, which
         | will include, as a bonus, learning their own dialect of C :)
        
       | echelon_musk wrote:
       | Last night I watched The 'Venture Bros.: Radiant Is the Blood of
       | the Baboon Heart'. If it wasn't for the dialogue below I would
       | have been very confused by the use of 'complications' in TFA!
       | 
       | Ben: Hey kid, I wanna give you something. Your grand-pap gave me
       | this before your dad was born.
       | 
       | Hank: Is it more dumb news? You gonna tell me who my mom isn't?
       | 
       | Ben: Nah. Just a watch. GMT Master. Venture Blue Dial. Tells the
       | time in two time zones.
       | 
       | Hank: It's heavy.
       | 
       | Ben: That fourth hand there, the little date window, those are
       | called complications. Complications make a watch special. More
       | complications the more valuable. Read the engraving Jonas put on
       | there.
       | 
       | Hank: [reads] "Elige Tua."
       | 
       | Ben: Eh. Close enough. It's latin for "Choose your family." Blood
       | doesn't make a family. Love does. Your grandpap knew that. Choose
       | your family, and remember, the complications make it special.
        
       | zokier wrote:
       | > Don't be afraid to make decisions for yourself. Wear the watch
       | you want to wear. If it doesn't exists, don't panic. Thanks to
       | the wonders of our connected world, you can find people that will
       | help you!
       | 
       | Good advice for people that have money to commission custom
       | pieces from lauded swiss companies.
       | 
       | Meanwhile I'm wearing the watch I got for "free" (ended up still
       | costing for maint/repairs), and trying to get my mortage paid.
        
         | InsideOutSanta wrote:
         | They're not that expensive (in the world of luxury watches,
         | anyway), and they _are_ really cool, but the mere thought of
         | paying thousands of dollars for a fragile thing that I wear on
         | my wrist that I will probably bang against a door handle or
         | something within a week is making me sweat.
         | 
         | The alternative option is to order some parts from AliExpress
         | and make your own custom watch. Elliot Coll has some videos on
         | how to do that on YT.
        
           | danieldk wrote:
           | I looked at their website and it seemed like it was the price
           | of a modest car? (20,000 Euro).
        
             | InsideOutSanta wrote:
             | Their regular watches start at around 2k, and custom
             | watches at 7k. Which is a lot of money, but it's at the
             | lower end for luxury watches.
        
               | hnlmorg wrote:
               | And here's me thinking I paid a lot for my watch which
               | was around PS400.
               | 
               | It's funny how the word "luxury" and "expensive" means
               | different things for different people.
        
               | felixr wrote:
               | If you look at https://www.watchrecon.com/ good get an
               | idea what people spend on watches if they are into
               | (collecting) watches
        
               | immibis wrote:
               | "Luxury" primarily means conspicuous consumption. You
               | don't pay $20k because _the watch_ is worth $20k - you
               | pay $20k because being able to show other elite
               | socialites that you paid $20k is worth $20k. Needless to
               | say, the watchmakers make out like bandits.
        
               | Xen9 wrote:
               | I think it's "you pay 20k because you don't care how much
               | you pay as long you get a good product, unless the cost
               | is at least in hundred thousands." Elite showing off
               | behaviour seems to be either about cool unusual things
               | that others "couldnt do" or elite women dominating poor
               | women.
        
           | nvarsj wrote:
           | Why do you think luxury watches are fragile? Most of these
           | watches are built to last decades and are easily repairable.
        
             | iamacyborg wrote:
             | Materials used in more luxury watches tend to be more
             | fragile than something you might use in a cheaper watch. ie
             | a gold case is going to be more susceptible to scratches
             | than a steel case, etc.
        
               | nvarsj wrote:
               | What's wrong with scratches? Even gold watches are not
               | using soft gold... they are very durable. Stainless steel
               | watches are pretty much bombproof. Also everything is
               | typically replaceable/repairable (e.g. surface can be
               | polished). After a service, it comes back looking like
               | new.
        
               | InsideOutSanta wrote:
               | I just don't want to baby it. My uncle has a Rolex, he
               | wears it only on special occasions and sends it in for
               | service every few years. Which is fine, he loves his
               | watch, it's a point of pride for him to treat it with
               | care, but that's not what I want from a watch. That's
               | all. No disrespect to expensive watches, it's just not
               | for me :-)
               | 
               | I want a watch that I can wear everywhere and anytime,
               | bump against walls and stuff, and if it breaks, I don't
               | feel bad.
        
               | nvarsj wrote:
               | I'd say that's how you're supposed to wear a watch, even
               | a luxury watch. Babying it defeats the point completely.
               | I wear my Rolex or Omega every day :). Scratches add
               | character and history! I'll be giving my watches to my
               | kids when I die, scratches and all.
        
               | owenmarshall wrote:
               | Agreed entirely. My grandfather's 5513 desk diver was
               | passed down to me. It had scuffs and scratches and the
               | lume had long since stopped glowing and turned to a
               | mustard color.
               | 
               | And while I never planned to have any of that changed
               | because I thought it added to the cool factor, the
               | appraisal guaranteed that decision. I was recommended a
               | local watchmaker who could service the movement only and
               | ensure the seals were all intact. Or I could send it back
               | to Rolex for servicing where they'd polish the case,
               | relume the numbers, and swap the acrylic dome for
               | sapphire - and by doing so chop ~50% off the value of the
               | watch.
               | 
               | It turns out collectors love patinas and scratches and
               | for a 60 year old watch to look its age.
        
               | iamacyborg wrote:
               | Plenty of folks don't want a scratched watch and I
               | imagine it would devalue one on the secondary market.
        
               | nvarsj wrote:
               | It doesn't devalue much at all. In fact most Rolex bought
               | 20 years ago are now worth 200-300% their purchase price,
               | scratches and all. After a service, they look practically
               | new as almost everything can be replaced/brought back to
               | like-new quality (and gets replaced in a service).
               | 
               | This isn't like your expensive Apple item that becomes
               | disposable/worthless after 4 years :).
        
               | zipy124 wrote:
               | The gold used in luxury watches is usually a lower-gold
               | alloy than jewelry, 14 or 18 carat (example [1]) and thus
               | have a hardness of anywhere from 85-165, or up to 230 if
               | annealed [2], which is comparable, or harder than common
               | stainless steels at 140-180[3].
               | 
               | [1]:https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/sky-dweller
               | [2]:https://24carat.co.uk/frame.php?url=hardnessofgoldall
               | oys.htm...
               | [3]:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vickers_hardness_test
        
           | stephencanon wrote:
           | FWIW, I've worn my O&J every day for seven years, banged it
           | against all sorts of things, and never had any issue (and
           | mine is 42mm and silver, so both less durable than OP's
           | titanium and much larger and more likely to get banged on
           | stuff). It's really not a big concern.
        
         | terryf wrote:
         | How does this comment contribute to the discussion?
         | 
         | The guy is happy about his watch and goes into great detail
         | explaining how it works and how it's made and why.
         | 
         | Why comment in such a negative way? I can't afford a 20k watch
         | either, but so what? Why such jealousy?
         | 
         | You have contributed nothing, yet made the internet ever so
         | slightly worse.
        
           | bravetraveler wrote:
           | Their comment was fine. An honest take. Yours manages to be
           | worse, policing. It brought me here. Now look where we are.
           | 
           | This doesn't work. Use the vote button.
        
             | terryf wrote:
             | Fair.
             | 
             | It's just interesting to me that lower in the thread with
             | less votes there are actually insightful comments that have
             | real content and the most upvoted comment is the one that
             | says "this sucks because I can't afford it".
             | 
             | This seems to me to be an issue in a number of other places
             | as well - the website previously known as twitter is
             | probably a good example where someone posts something and a
             | lot of the replies are just random hate and nitpicking
             | about a single, irrelevant word in the comment.
             | 
             | I guess I just don't get why people bother to do that. And
             | it is kind of interesting to think about - is there some
             | way to encourage more thoughtful responses?
        
           | zokier wrote:
           | The post for most parts was neat, not disagreeing there. But
           | wrapping it up as some sort of empowering life lesson feels
           | so utterly out of touch that I felt like reminding that it is
           | huge privilege to be able to do this sort of thing. Someone
           | not wearing custom luxury watch is most likely not due being
           | afraid to make decisions for themselves. Attributing the
           | ability to do this sort of thing to "connected world" and
           | "people willing to help" is just distasteful to me.
           | 
           | It doesn't help that the whole post is titled "Designing my
           | own watch" while the actual design work was seemingly mostly
           | done by ochs; mixing up doing something and commissioning
           | something done is another of those things that has echoes of
           | ages past, and not in a good way.
           | 
           | For the authors defence I do say that 5 years ago was
           | slightly different time and back then these sort of things
           | could pass more easily.
        
             | willemlaurentz wrote:
             | Thanks Zokier for your comments, original author here:
             | 
             |  _The post for most parts was neat, not disagreeing there.
             | But wrapping it up as some sort of empowering life lesson
             | feels so utterly out of touch that I felt like reminding
             | that it is huge privilege to be able to do this sort of
             | thing._
             | 
             | Never was it my intention to provide one with "overarching
             | life lessons". Your reaction points out that I still have a
             | lot to learn in refining the tone of my English use. As
             | non-native English language user, I use my blog to "hone my
             | skills". You helped me learn, for which I am grateful.
             | 
             | For what it is worth, I use the knowledge and expertise
             | that enable my "privileges" in my work as volunteer. You
             | can find some posts on this here:
             | https://willem.com/blog/2016-11-21_being-a-volunteer-in-
             | amst... TLDR: I am very grateful.
             | 
             |  _Someone not wearing custom luxury watch is most likely
             | not due being afraid to make decisions for themselves.
             | Attributing the ability to do this sort of thing to
             | "connected world" and "people willing to help" is just
             | distasteful to me._
             | 
             | I do not entirely follow your reasoning here as I never
             | have intended to "judge" or "rank" other people's choices
             | and decisions. The post (on _my_ blog) is about _my_ watch,
             | not much more than that.
             | 
             |  _It doesn 't help that the whole post is titled "Designing
             | my own watch" while the actual design work was seemingly
             | mostly done by ochs; mixing up doing something and
             | commissioning something done is another of those things
             | that has echoes of ages past, and not in a good way._
             | 
             | Naturally I agree with you that a large part of the
             | mechanical design is done by ochs und junior; however I do
             | think that if you take the concept a little broader it
             | might make a little more sense: given _all_ the options out
             | there, I set out to have a watch created that would fit my
             | specific wishes. When I look at the result, I very
             | deliberately know why I made certain choices in style,
             | size, colour, material, function, capability and weight. In
             | that sense I did take part in the design process.
             | 
             |  _For the authors defence I do say that 5 years ago was
             | slightly different time and back then these sort of things
             | could pass more easily._
             | 
             | Thank you sincerely, reactions like those of yourself
             | enable me to learn. That is very much one of the reasons
             | why I like the blog. Have a nice day!
        
         | roshankhan28 wrote:
         | can the watch turn me into different aliens?
        
         | PostOnce wrote:
         | No need to pay someone, you can make one. What do you need? A
         | secondhand manual pantograph mill someone is getting rid of for
         | a few hundred dollars and a little jewellers lathe?
         | 
         | And of course a book on watchmaking.
         | 
         | We've been making watches for about _half a millennium_ now,
         | and if a craftsman in the 1500s could do it, surely a curious
         | man with semi-modern secondhand tools from the 70s can too.
         | 
         | I'm going to do exactly this eventually and it's going to
         | "cost" me maybe as much as a flagship phone all up, time and
         | effort not included.
        
           | acureau wrote:
           | When you do this I'd love to read about it.
        
           | gwynn_ap_nudd wrote:
           | You're right if you're aiming to make a 16th century pocket
           | watch. Anything approaching a modern wristwatch calibre is
           | much more time and money intensive.
           | 
           | The majority of the cost will be time and effort. I think
           | George Daniels estimates it to be 3000 hours for a skilled
           | amateur to make the tourbillion pocket watch described in his
           | book. This number will be decreased if you forego the
           | tourbillion. But even so, other equipment costs: jewelling
           | press, staking set, poising tools, depthing tool, all kinds
           | of abrasives, oils and greases. The largest tool cost will be
           | lathe attachments like collets, cross slide, milling
           | attachment, wheel and pinion cutters. You may be able to cut
           | wheels and pinions on the pantograph but probably not to the
           | precision needed for a wristwatch, maybe for a large pocket
           | watch or clock. Maybe you could put the lathe on the milling
           | table to index the stock and use the mill to cut?
           | 
           | That's not counting all the theory needed to design and build
           | a movement from scratch.
           | 
           | My advice would be to steal the going train, escapement and
           | balance from an existing movement and fabricate the remaining
           | parts
        
             | AlanYx wrote:
             | A good starting point is to try to build a pin-pallet
             | escapement design, like Timex used in the 60s and 70s. This
             | is largely doable at home with a 3D printer and basic
             | tools, e.g.: https://incoherency.co.uk/blog/stories/the-
             | watch-project.htm... Getting to modern accuracy is hard
             | though.
        
         | jajko wrote:
         | Well, you have a mortgage, meaning you at one point had waaay
         | more disposable income than even more luxurious variant of
         | those discussed would cost.
         | 
         | Some folks put money into ferraris or porsches and then race
         | them, or watch them appreciate (if smart & lucky). Or boats.
         | Some folks spend money otherwise. Half of this forum spent
         | similar amount on just non-mandatory technical gadgets in past
         | few years.
         | 
         | This watch making is actually an investment that can bring nice
         | returns in the future, barring damage/theft/loss happens. Also
         | an interesting skill learned, plus skill explained to others. I
         | can't do anything but appreciate such folks.
        
         | Xen9 wrote:
         | Exchange the mortage for a watch loan.
        
       | _zoltan_ wrote:
       | Cool! I've never heard of this shop before, thanks for sharing
       | your experience.
        
       | _giorgio_ wrote:
       | I find these watches super boring.
       | 
       | Ok, there is a philosophy behind the choices, but aesthetic is
       | about risk and about making choices. If you need to remind
       | yourself why something is nice, it isn't.
        
       | thih9 wrote:
       | > It's all about the product, no money or energy is wasted on
       | superflous boxes or booklets - I love this
       | 
       | Is it still all about the product when the product is a luxury
       | item itself?
        
         | hnlmorg wrote:
         | Yes. Of course it is. Whether the item is luxury or not is a
         | property of the product itself.
        
       | gorgoiler wrote:
       | Totally in love with the idea of building a custom watch. I've
       | done it too and it only cost $80!
       | 
       | Body $30 https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.A158WA-1/
       | 
       | Movement $40 https://www.crowdsupply.com/oddly-specific-
       | objects/sensor-wa...
       | 
       | I've added a new astronomical face and rejigged the world clock
       | for my rellies (showing AW for Australian Western time.) Dirt
       | simple changes but it's thrilling to have something that's partly
       | _mine_. Because it is based on the Casio body it's also an iconic
       | design classic too.
       | 
       | I believe a version with tzdata in it is in the works by the
       | author. My thanks to everyone involved in the project and
       | everyone on HN who got me into this hobby!
        
         | thrtythreeforty wrote:
         | The author also recently designed a custom LCD as a drop in
         | replacement [1] and I can't wait to get one. I've decided
         | smartwatches are too expensive and short lived for me, but I
         | think this version, with just a little bit of programmability,
         | is gonna be perfect.
         | 
         | [1]: https://www.crowdsupply.com/oddly-specific-objects/sensor-
         | wa...
        
         | greesil wrote:
         | I want this but also with a RF modem so I can send Morse code
         | to nearby nerd friends.
        
       | Mistletoe wrote:
       | Did cell phones cannibalize watch sales like they did camera
       | sales? I always wonder who needs a watch now when it is extremely
       | rare you don't have a cell phone.
        
         | WillPostForFood wrote:
         | Phones, not really. But Apple Watches/Smart watches/fitness
         | trackers/wearables have really hurt. There has been a big drop
         | in Swiss watch unit sales since 2015.
         | 
         | https://www.statista.com/statistics/303755/number-of-swiss-w...
        
           | eleveriven wrote:
           | This has created a new niche in the watch market
        
         | eleveriven wrote:
         | Watches remain popular for their practicality, style, and
         | status
        
         | bigstrat2003 wrote:
         | Watches are superior to phones imo. It's way more convenient to
         | simply look at your wrist than it is to dig your phone out of
         | your pocket.
        
       | eps wrote:
       | Not sure if the watchmaker's line-up changed in 4 years passed,
       | but here's a nearly identical watch, the first hit in their
       | "customized" category - https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/my-ochs-
       | und-junior/?watch=11...
       | 
       | At the very least this makes author's watch rather less unique
       | and custom than described. Perhaps it was an one of a kind back
       | in 2020, but it's not anymore.
       | 
       | The cost is around $9K.
        
         | jcmfernandes wrote:
         | There's a Portuguese watch company using this same style since
         | 2016: https://isotopewatches.com/products/isotope-gmt-zero-
         | degrees
         | 
         | I love their timepieces.
        
         | wodenokoto wrote:
         | It isn't super clear from first read, but that design is not by
         | the author, but by the company. He gave them specs for what he
         | wished for in a design, and they came up with a design.
         | 
         | I guess they now own and can continue to sell that design.
         | They've gone all in on online customization at least:
         | https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/customizer-1-1/?watch=112&cu...
        
         | zipy124 wrote:
         | This company is the one he mentioned he worked with to create
         | the watch. He gave them the specifications and they made the
         | watch.
         | 
         | This is not a hand-made watch. It's just bespoke made to his
         | specification and he never states its unique and limited
         | edition 1 of 1.
         | 
         | This does however make it incredibly custom as stated as he
         | gave the specifications, and the company made it for him,
         | literally customisation I'd say!
        
         | stephencanon wrote:
         | OP's watch appears to be a customized variant of the annual
         | calendar LIGHT, which was introduced in 2016. The 36mm case is
         | unusual, not one of the standard sizes, but O&J has been
         | willing to do 36mm cases on request since ~2010 with certain
         | models. So--like all O&J watches prior to 2020 or so1--the
         | cosmetics are fully customized, but the mechanism is shared
         | with other O&J watches2.
         | 
         | 1 since then they also have a collection of non-customizable
         | watches
         | 
         | 2 this undersells it a bit; most O&J watches (like mine!) are
         | "just" customized realizations of a set of basic designs (which
         | is a good thing, IMO, because those designs work better than
         | what most buyers would come up with). But many of those designs
         | were developed collaboratively in response to specific customer
         | requests. I was in the workshop in 2018 and saw an early
         | prototype of what became the day/night watch
         | (https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/day-night/) in
         | development for the customer who had proposed it. If you skim
         | through their blog, you'll find lots of interesting projects
         | done for customers with varying degrees of customization (I
         | really love this day/night done with no conventional face:
         | https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/dirks-day-night/)
        
       | willemlaurentz wrote:
       | Original author here from 2020:
       | 
       | With regard to value and cost I would like to add the factor
       | 'time' to the discussion. A watch like this can easily last for
       | decades, possibly longer (and it will retain some value, possibly
       | even appreciate in value, over time).
       | 
       | This is a sharp contrast with 'consumables' like most
       | smartwatches and smartphones, that (given enough time) will add
       | up in costs, too. I am not saying one should "do this or that" -
       | but value/cost is a funny thing when you think of it in more than
       | one dimension.
        
         | jen729w wrote:
         | Don't feel like you should apologise for the expense.
         | 
         | I see people driving round in cars that cost $100k+. I think
         | this is _insane_ , but it's relatively normal.
         | 
         | Spend your money on things that make you happy.
        
         | michaelt wrote:
         | You've got the money, you wanted to buy something nice for
         | yourself, and you like luxury watches. Nothing wrong with that
         | - plenty of people buy a $50,000 car when a $40,000 car has the
         | same number of wheels.
         | 
         | But for my $200 Garmin to "add up in costs" to your $10,000
         | watch would require some extremely creative accounting.
         | 
         | Although I suppose time does factor into every discussion of
         | watches, in a way :)
        
           | jajko wrote:
           | Those Garmins will be worth 0 in 10 years, or 30. These ones
           | will keep working and could be worn by his grandchildren
           | easily, if basic care is taken and they are not stolen or
           | lost.Their value could be low or also very, very high.
           | 
           | Passions should not be primarily measured in TCO or returns,
           | then no vacation ever makes any sense since you just spend
           | money, no expensive clothing, no expensive car, no
           | restaurants just eating cheap salads whole life and so on.
           | Also one should live in tiniest cheapest shed to maximize
           | earnings. You see where this goes
        
             | michaelt wrote:
             | _> Those Garmins will be worth 0 in 10 years, or 30._
             | 
             | Sure, but even if I replace my Garmin every 5 years for the
             | next 100 years, I'll only have spent $4000, so I'll _still
             | be $6000 better off_.
             | 
             | Or if I put that $10,000 into an investment that returns 2%
             | above inflation? I can have a new Garmin _every year_ and
             | 100 years later, _I 'll also still have $10,000_
             | 
             | And if I'm needing a new Garmin every year I'm either very
             | careless or very passionate about having the latest
             | gadgets. So will that $10k watch _really_ be my last ever
             | watch? Almost certainly not.
             | 
             |  _> Passions should not be primarily measured in TCO or
             | returns_
             | 
             | Yes, I agree - as I said in the first paragraph of my post.
             | If you're buying a luxury watch because you like luxury
             | watches, there's nothing wrong with that.
             | 
             | But pretending a $10k watch saves you money is just wishful
             | thinking.
        
           | markovs_gun wrote:
           | This. I have never bought a watch for more than $300 and I
           | would have to buy 33 $300 watches to get to $10,000. If I
           | live 60 more years, that's one watch every 22 months for the
           | rest of my life.
        
         | 2rsf wrote:
         | There is no point in trying to justify the cost in counting the
         | BOM, taking your watch for example, it uses a generic ETA
         | caliber 2892-A2 (the "engine" in the watch) which is used in
         | watches that cost 10% up to x10 of yours while it cost only
         | $300-500.
         | 
         | I look at watches as a piece of jewelry more than an
         | engineering item, they might or might nor keep their value but
         | I like how they look, make me look and make me feel especially
         | if there is a nice story behind the watch.
        
       | eleveriven wrote:
       | Such watches can become something like a family heirloom, passed
       | down from generation to generation
        
       | kingkongjaffa wrote:
       | I collect luxury watches and understand movements and case
       | construction... I'm not trying to be overly negative, rather if
       | someone is interested in this, how to not waste your money.
       | People who don't know watches see "Swiss" and equate that with
       | good and luxury.
       | 
       | If you want to make a custom watch, design the case and dial
       | yourself, and buy an off the shelf swiss or japanese movement
       | like a ETA / miyota or a sellita movement,
       | https://sellita.ch/index.php/en/movements these are used in top
       | luxury watches and have great accuracy and reliability.
       | 
       | >Base Movement
       | 
       | > ETA 2824-2 with 38 hours of power reserve. Manufacturer: ETA SA
       | / Grenchen / Switzerland.
       | 
       | it's literally an off the shelf movement.
       | 
       | > Although ETA movements are now unavailable for purchase from
       | ETA, you can still find watch parts suppliers offering
       | replacement movements for sale. The gold tone version (see
       | example below) appears to cost less than the silver (nickel
       | plated) version. Prices generally range from $200-$300 USD, but
       | at the time of this post, the gold tone 2824-2 can be purchased
       | for $236.20 USD here, and the nickel plated for $262.42 USD here.
       | 
       | The main thing that drives the cost in something like this is the
       | movement, and this doesn't have a custom movement at all, there's
       | no way the rest of this is worth around 10k.
       | 
       | Without a nice dial I don't really see the point.
       | 
       | It's like putting a ferrari engine in a mini. Sure it's
       | incredibly cool how it works, but I couldn't imagine buying one
       | of the watches, and I am a watch collector.
       | 
       | The dial and hands design and quality looks just so so poor. The
       | huge lines in the case pieces don't inspire much confidence in
       | the craftsmanship either.
       | 
       | Obviously the article mentions they want the case to be
       | unpolished which is fine if the machining wasn't so poor.
       | 
       | The buyer obviously thought they were getting something custom
       | because they showed him a few CAD screenshots, but the watchmaker
       | is selling this on their website still.
       | 
       | From the image where the caption reads:
       | 
       | > The curved case design is very comfortable on the wrist, as
       | there are no sharp edges sticking in your arm
       | 
       | This isn't even correct, it's literally got flat lugs which do
       | not curve on the wrist.
        
         | lmz wrote:
         | > this doesn't have a custom movement at all, there's no way
         | the rest of this is worth around 10k.
         | 
         | It has an annual calendar module added on. Surely that's semi
         | custom and worth something, considering how expensive the
         | calendar watches usually are.
         | 
         | (edit): actually there's a secondhand annual calendar longines
         | on chrono24 for less than $2000 so maybe not worth that much.
         | Probably still quite novel though.
        
       | codazoda wrote:
       | I've just started down the path of designing a smartwatch using a
       | Pi Pico. Mine will probably not be super smart (at first) and it
       | will have a very large case (something I like).
       | 
       | https://www.makervoyage.com/raspberry-pi-pico-smartwatch
        
       | BOOTRACER wrote:
       | I've been wearing a Yeswatch daily since V1. Newest V7 world
       | watch has wireless recharging. Titanium case is light and strong.
       | Not for everyone (it's chunky) but I'm a big fan.
        
         | entropie wrote:
         | Oh there are actual watches with analog 24h display.
         | 
         | I felt very smart when I wrote my watchface for my galaxy s2
         | tizen/vue watch with 24 hour display years ago.
         | 
         | I also managed to build in timer/stopwatch functions to save
         | battery (webworker) and it has a cucumber counter (I ate over
         | 400 cucumbers a year back then).
         | 
         | After some tizen update on the watch, the certificates didn't
         | work anymore and I couldn't install it on my watch. I gave the
         | watch away straight away.
         | 
         | https://ackro.org/~mit/stuff/myClaw/
        
       | dilippkumar wrote:
       | This looks gorgeous.
       | 
       | Here is my wishlist for my ideal watch:
       | 
       | 1. Automatically adjusts to the timezone I'm in, including
       | accounting for daylight saving time
       | 
       | 2. Analog watch face with zero visible electronic displays
       | 
       | 3. Connects to google calendar and has a haptic signal when
       | something is about to start or end on my calendar
       | 
       | 4. 2 hours of charging lasts for 1 year
       | 
       | 5. Precise enough to act as a PTP grandmaster source.
        
         | MostlyEmre wrote:
         | I settled on a Seiko Astron GPS Solar on my last Japan trip and
         | am very happy. It is missing the number 3 and 5 as it is not a
         | smart/connected watch but its tech excites me every time I
         | think about it. So if you're willing to sacrifice or want to
         | have an alternative watch to your smart watch, I highly
         | recommend looking into it.
        
       | supportengineer wrote:
       | We need a Raspberry Pi hardware and community, but for wrist
       | watches.
        
         | piltdownman wrote:
         | You basically do with the NH35 Movement.
         | 
         | https://www.reddit.com/r/SeikoMods/
         | 
         | https://www.reddit.com/r/SeikoMods/comments/11w3c22/nh35_cus...
        
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