[HN Gopher] Three years in North Korea as a foreigner (2021)
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       Three years in North Korea as a foreigner (2021)
        
       Author : Hansig_jw
       Score  : 183 points
       Date   : 2024-07-11 15:52 UTC (7 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (mydiplomaticlife.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (mydiplomaticlife.com)
        
       | stuff4ben wrote:
       | This was fascinating! If I could do it all over again, I'd have
       | gone into the US Foreign Service. Maybe not to places like North
       | Korea (which we don't have a presence in anyways), but I'd have
       | loved to travel the world. Maybe in the next life...
        
         | unixhero wrote:
         | Sure, if you could get in.
         | 
         | I tried for 5 years in a row to get into my country's service.
         | It failed. Pivoted to information security, hey at least I am a
         | millionaire now.
        
           | M5x7wI3CmbEem10 wrote:
           | may I ask if you have any career advice?
        
             | jawilson2 wrote:
             | Try 5 years to get into foreign service, then pivot to IS?
        
               | lukan wrote:
               | Yes. Or more general: work hard to get something. Even if
               | you will never reach it, you might still improve enough
               | in general, to be ready to do and get something else
               | instead.
        
           | trallnag wrote:
           | What currency
        
         | bozey07 wrote:
         | > Maybe not to places like North Korea (which we don't have a
         | presence in anyways)
         | 
         | Sure they don't ;)
        
         | jrockway wrote:
         | > Maybe in the next life...
         | 
         | I told myself this about an important decision. I thought about
         | it more and decided I didn't really believe in that (proof:
         | what do you remember from your last life), so just did it in
         | this one. No regrets!
        
           | pasquinelli wrote:
           | you'll eventually forget this life too, so i'm not sure about
           | your proof ;)
        
       | netsharc wrote:
       | The last paragraph talks about being cut-off and isolated. He
       | didn't mention Internet or phones for private use, so I wonder if
       | they didn't have that. I can imagine smartphones being
       | disallowed, and even if allowed, limited to home WiFi...
        
         | tarentel wrote:
         | I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't have internet but I know
         | little of North Korea. They definitely didn't have smartphones
         | as this was the early 2000s.
        
         | notdonspaulding wrote:
         | They did not have internet. From the article:
         | 
         | > You were in a country that really was sealed off from the
         | rest of the world. No internet or social media. All press and
         | TV (one channel) dedicated not for news but solely for the
         | glorification of the Leader. That is the Kim dynasty and the
         | regime.
        
           | netsharc wrote:
           | Obviously the average citizen don't have Internet, but an
           | embassy without Internet (most probably through satellite) is
           | unthinkable, they need to be able to talk to their home
           | government.
           | 
           | But if we go back 20 years (others have said this is written
           | in the early 2000's), satellite communication was probably
           | worse than 28.8k modems and really expensive, so yeah, it
           | could've been there but only for official and not personal
           | use.
        
             | TechDebtDevin wrote:
             | They have Iphone 11s in NK and plenty of smartphones. They
             | have some internet, and they'd have more if they West
             | allowed some investment and wasn't punishing a civilian
             | population because of who their leaders are.
        
               | tekla wrote:
               | I wonder how NK blocking their own internet from the
               | outside world is the west punishing the NK civilian
               | population.
        
           | roywiggins wrote:
           | Later on they talk about installing a satellite dish for
           | diplomatic communication, so the embassy might have had some
           | sort of internet connection over that.
        
       | gwbas1c wrote:
       | Weird, I tried to click on "Kimchi Harvest" to see a larger
       | version. Instead, the link was to
       | https://mydiplomaticlife.com/how-to-survive-3-years-in-north...,
       | which just took me to the top of the article.
        
         | starik36 wrote:
         | Oddly enough, Soviet Union had a thing similar to "Kimchi
         | Harvest". I remember workers in my town having to go work at a
         | collective farm for a week harvesting things.
         | 
         | They also had something called "subotnik", aka voluntary
         | Saturday labor. This was a practice where citizens, including
         | workers and students, participated in unpaid labor on
         | Saturdays. These activities included various tasks like
         | cleaning up the city (that's what I remember doing as a kid).
         | There was nothing "voluntary" about it.
        
           | ZhongXina wrote:
           | It was still the norm in Uzbekistan until just a few years
           | ago, but with cotton instead of potatoes. Not anymore AFAIK.
        
         | sva_ wrote:
         | Gimjang week is pretty common in SK as well, especially among
         | the elders
         | 
         | https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimjang
        
       | cactusplant7374 wrote:
       | There was another diplomat that has videos on YouTube. I can't
       | remember his name but he was able to move freely and use his DSLR
       | around Pyongyang.
        
         | contingencies wrote:
         | Probably 15-20 years later then.
        
         | ZhongXina wrote:
         | Jaka Parker.
         | 
         | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDcfiEX__cA
        
           | rightbyte wrote:
           | Strange. It looks like some movie set in the DDR, but with
           | the wrong manufacturing date on the car props and Korean
           | extras in modern cloths. I guess the sparse city planning is
           | the reason? Like, a lot of space.
        
       | gwbas1c wrote:
       | Years ago, I was lucky enough to listen to a talk from an
       | American who got to be a tourist in North Korea. Ever since then
       | I've been fascinated with stories like this.
       | 
       | North Korea is on my bucket list, but hopefully after the state
       | loosens up.
        
         | AtlasBarfed wrote:
         | North Korea can take you with whatever justification they feel
         | like and return you as a vegetable.
         | 
         | I know the mass games look cool and people like to go to weird
         | places, please avoid North Korea
        
           | Scoundreller wrote:
           | > North Korea can take you with whatever justification they
           | feel like and return you as a vegetable.
           | 
           | That's most/all countries (or their embassies) you visit, no?
           | 
           | https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assassination_of_Jamal_Khash.
           | ..
        
             | someoneontenet wrote:
             | I'm sure some countries are more willing to treat guests to
             | the vegetable treatment than others.
        
             | victorbjorklund wrote:
             | A big political enemy of the saudi family that been a pain
             | in their ass (rightly so since they are an evil
             | dictatorship) vs random student that just took a poster as
             | a souvernir.
             | 
             | Not the same thing. Anyone can be killed in North Korea.
             | 99,99999999999% of people are not on the saudi familys
             | enemy list.
        
               | BizarreByte wrote:
               | > random student that just took a poster as a souvernir.
               | 
               | Let's not mince words here, he stole government property
               | in a country with some of the harshest laws on earth.
               | 
               | Did he deserve to die for it? No, but it was an
               | incredibly stupid thing to do.
        
               | yongjik wrote:
               | One might even argue that the stupidity began when he
               | decided to visit NK.
        
               | kennyloginz wrote:
               | His fellow travelers say this was impossible, the
               | "recording" was fake, and the timestamps are at a time
               | when he wasn't even in the hotel. Why would you assume n.
               | Korea is being honest here?
        
               | Scoundreller wrote:
               | yeah for sure, because otherwise NK has _fantastic_
               | relations with USA!
        
             | andy81 wrote:
             | Other countries have a larger denominator to reduce the
             | proportion of visits vs arbitrary detention and torture.
        
           | smcl wrote:
           | I am sorry but if you travel somewhere like Iran or North
           | Korea you are doing so explicitly against the advice of most
           | governments. Every single person visiting these places is
           | told that they need to keep their shit together, otherwise
           | the consequences could be dire for them or for those they
           | come into contact with.
        
             | kstrauser wrote:
             | Iran doesn't chill my blood in the same way imagining being
             | in North Korea does. I have no desire to go there. I
             | wouldn't go if offered. It still strikes me as a more or
             | less rational country that stridently disagrees with my own
             | country's politics (and my own), not a boot stamping on a
             | human face -- forever.
        
               | smcl wrote:
               | Honestly I'd still like to visit both (particularly Iran)
               | and I know people who have. But there is definitely
               | advice you need to heed in both places (tbh in _all_
               | places...)
        
           | mschuster91 wrote:
           | Add Afghanistan to that list. Some Austrian far-right dumbass
           | went there to make a YouTube video to claim Afghanistan were
           | safe (obviously to justify deporting refugees there) - and lo
           | behold, he got arrested by the Taliban on espionage charges
           | and ultimately released after 9 extensive months of
           | negotiations [1].
           | 
           | [1] https://www.zdf.de/nachrichten/politik/ausland/oesterreic
           | h-r...
        
         | sevensor wrote:
         | Or, you can visit South Korea today, and if you want to go off
         | the beaten path, leave Seoul. The east coast is a beautiful and
         | fascinating place. Go to Gangwon, ride a cable car up
         | Seoraksan, eat the best seafood of your life.
        
         | jdougan wrote:
         | Michael Malice?
        
       | nenadg wrote:
       | Laibach also got away with it -
       | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oD0W6SSBUA
        
       | the_duke wrote:
       | The post never mentions a date, but this must have been around
       | 2000-2004, since that is when the UK embassy was established. [1]
       | 
       | Some things have probably changed since then.
       | 
       | A fascinating read regardless.
       | 
       | [1]
       | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embassy_of_the_United_Kingdom,...
        
         | dheera wrote:
         | I wonder who works in those embassies. Are there some British
         | dudes just living there that go to the embassy every day for
         | work? Where do they buy food? What do their residences look
         | like? Do have spouses and children? Where do they work and go
         | to school? Do they enjoy life there?
        
           | thriftwy wrote:
           | They likely go to specialized shops for foreigners where you
           | may only pay with US$-backed coupons, and can purchase most
           | of stuff you can commonly buy in Japan.
        
             | __s wrote:
             | > There were a handful of shops that catered for
             | foreigners. All transactions had to be in Euros as
             | possession of local currency by foreigners was forbidden. A
             | lot of the items were imported from China and from time to
             | time, local fresh produce would make a rare appearance.
             | Meat was always in short supply.
        
               | lutoma wrote:
               | Here's a video of what one of those shops looks like by
               | an Indonesian diplomat:
               | 
               | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRYJ9u0sEE4
        
           | netsharc wrote:
           | Some of your questions are answered in the actual article...
           | no mention of spouses or kids, so most probably they don't
           | come along.
        
         | sva_ wrote:
         | A clue about the time might be
         | 
         | > The World Food Programme (whose Head at the time was an
         | American called Reagan!)
         | 
         | But I can't find him here or elsewhere:
         | 
         | https://www.wfp.org/previous-executive-directors
        
           | jkaptur wrote:
           | Sounds like this person:
           | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Ragan
        
           | wongarsu wrote:
           | That must be a misspelling of Richard Ragan. He headed the
           | North Korean World Food Programme from 2003 to 2005 according
           | to Wikipedia
           | 
           | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Ragan
        
         | OliveMate wrote:
         | Meanwhile instead of some fancy building, their embassy over
         | here is... Well, a little more domestic.
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embassy_of_North_Korea,_London
        
       | FrancoisBosun wrote:
       | I'm mostly surprised about the free admission of bribery:
       | 
       | > However, I soon found that a bottle of Johnie Walker Black
       | Label handed out at particularly frustrating moments made things
       | miraculously happen a lot quicker. Oh how the North Koreans loved
       | their whiskey.
        
         | ThrowawayTestr wrote:
         | That's just diplomacy.
        
           | ceejayoz wrote:
           | Long history of it, too.
           | 
           | The US made special clear coke in nondescript bottles for
           | Marshal of the Soviet Union Zhukov so he could look like he
           | was drinking vodka instead of the illegal Western drink.
           | 
           | https://www.businessinsider.com/us-secret-clear-coca-cola-
           | fo...
           | 
           | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Coke
        
             | spitfire wrote:
             | So _thats_ where crystal Pepsi came from!
             | 
             | Bloody Commie soda!
        
           | contingencies wrote:
           | Re-gifting would have likely occurred. Like: obtain bottle,
           | pass to your superior, cement next-level promotion.
        
         | smcl wrote:
         | Sounds like they loved their _whisky_
        
         | xenospn wrote:
         | When I went there (2005-6), we were told to bring foreign
         | cigarettes. And this is how I ended up importing Israeli into
         | North Korea. Hopefully they liked them!
        
       | derpilderp wrote:
       | Sounds like half the embassy hates each other and every one hates
       | the British
        
       | everybodyknows wrote:
       | Video from inside:
       | 
       | https://video.vice.com/en_us/video/vice-guide-to-north-korea...
        
       | thriftwy wrote:
       | https://www.tema.ru/travel/north-korea-1/
       | 
       | Artemy Lebedev, a known Russian web designer, visited North Korea
       | and posted his notes with pictures (in Russian, should not be an
       | obstacle these days).
       | 
       | There are three more sections with the selector below.
        
         | chgs wrote:
         | My favourite NK blog is the trip in 2008 from Austria to North
         | Korea via the unexpected route from Russia
         | 
         | https://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/10/vienna-pyongya...
        
         | jiggawatts wrote:
         | > in Russian, should not be an obstacle these days
         | 
         | It blows my mind a tiny bit every time I translate something
         | with GPT-4. It's flawless!
         | 
         | Fascinating article, it explained a few things I didn't get
         | before. E.g.: the locals collect grass in bags to feed to
         | rabbits.
        
       | snihalani wrote:
       | I saw a 504 when I loaded the site but then a reload fixed it.
       | Could have been a great meta joke
        
       | wkat4242 wrote:
       | For someone who wants to read more in-depth stories about this
       | topic I highly recommend the book "Only beautiful, please" by
       | John Everard.
       | 
       | He was another British Diplomat (I think he was ambassador even)
       | and he often would go on unscheduled biking trips freaking out
       | his security escort. Though this was in less tense times, I doubt
       | this would be possible in the days of Kim Yung-Un. Anyway, highly
       | recommended, really.
        
       | sdf4j wrote:
       | Pyongyang [0] by Guy Delisle is an amazing graphic novel
       | depicting a foreigner animator living in North Korea. Never get
       | tired of it.
       | https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyongyang:_A_Journey_in_Nort...
        
       | V__ wrote:
       | I'll preface this by saying that I can't support this with a
       | source, so take it with a grain of salt. An acquaintance of mine
       | knew someone who worked in that German embassy. Apparently, the
       | extreme isolation of North Korea also made it extremely difficult
       | to have any kind of opsec inside the embassy. Since anything
       | could only be brought in through diplomatic pouches it created an
       | attack vector of one.
       | 
       | A few days after said person had a meeting in the German
       | equivalent of a scif, there was a meeting with North Korean
       | officials. One official let something slip, which meant a bug had
       | somehow gotten into the scif. He didn't say anything about what
       | the consequences were, just that one should not underestimate the
       | North Koreans.
        
         | bagels wrote:
         | scif = sensitive compartmented information facility
         | 
         | A room that is supposed to be highly secure with secure
         | communication channels where it is safe to handle or transmit
         | secret information.
        
         | RGamma wrote:
         | There's a kajillion ways to extract info via analog hole from a
         | well-known room. Unless this room has counter-measures (that
         | are unlikely to be accepted by an authoritarian government)
         | this ain't surprising really.
        
         | influx wrote:
         | Which do you think is more likely, the scif was compromised, or
         | one of the people in the scif was?
        
           | V__ wrote:
           | He didn't specify whether the scif itself was bugged or they
           | planted a bug on someone, just that it wasn't a leak.
        
       | rvba wrote:
       | > This gave us the opportunity to overnight in Dandong, sightsee
       | and food shop before picking up our serviced vehicle the next day
       | and heading back into North Korea
       | 
       | I wonder what spy devices were installed inside the car...
        
       | whizzter wrote:
       | Hearing about the lone Swede reminds me of the weird history/role
       | of that,
       | https://www.npr.org/sections/parallels/2017/12/04/547390622/...
        
       | paganel wrote:
       | > fields to harvest kimchi (cabbages), a vital staple in all
       | North Korean diets. They would then take the kimchi home and
       | pickle it in vast quantities and store it there.
       | 
       | > This kimchi supply would then hopefully get them and their
       | families through the long, bitter winter months.
       | 
       | This reminds me that my parents (they live in the South-Eastern
       | Romanian countryside) make excellent pickled cabbage, in fact
       | eating pickled cabbage is one of my fondest food-related memories
       | from the dreaded 1990s (when there wasn't that much food to go
       | around on account of lack of money, and we had close to no money
       | because of the infamous Shock Therapy).
       | 
       | Very interesting to see how pickled cabbage has been helping
       | people go through rough times at the two opposing sides of
       | Eurasia (on the Korean peninsula and on the European peninsula).
        
       | jonathanyc wrote:
       | Laughed out loud at the unexpected "90/100" rating at the end.
       | Very interesting read. Thought this was interesting in
       | particular:
       | 
       | > When serving in Iraq or Iran, my biggest fear in those places
       | was always the threat of physical harm, be it ambushes on our
       | person or vehicles, being kidnapped, rocket or mortar attacks on
       | our embassy or accommodation. There were close shaves and the
       | threat and the fear never left you in all of these places. > But
       | as far as life in North Korea was concerned, there were none of
       | these fears. Serving in North Korea gave you this strange feeling
       | of being cut off, isolated and very insular and perversely at the
       | same time "safe."
       | 
       | I wonder how this compares to living in e.g. Libya under Gaddafi
       | vs. after?
        
       | Stratoscope wrote:
       | I posted my story a few times about picking up a North Korean
       | shortwave broadcast on my car radio while driving to work at
       | Adobe in San Jose around 2022. Rather than re-tell it again, here
       | it is:
       | 
       | https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=38634348
        
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