[HN Gopher] Repairing my mug with Kintsugi
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       Repairing my mug with Kintsugi
        
       Author : fellerts
       Score  : 156 points
       Date   : 2024-05-31 09:57 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (fellerts.no)
 (TXT) w3m dump (fellerts.no)
        
       | throwup238 wrote:
       | _> These days, some hobbyists opt for modern epoxy instead of the
       | traditional and expensive Urushi lacquer. Epoxy probably yields a
       | more robust bond and certainly allows for quicker repairs, but I
       | question its safety for food-related use, especially at the
       | temperatures found in a steaming cup of coffee._
       | 
       | People opt for epoxy because Urushi lacquer is traditionally made
       | from poison oak sap and is a potent skin irritant to most people
       | (it's where urushiol gets its name). It's really tough to do
       | Kintsugi without smearing trace amounts of it all over the place,
       | especially if you're doing it with kids, and cleaning it off is a
       | pain since it's a hydrophobic sap. Even trace amounts can cause a
       | reaction, especially if someone has sensitive skin or is severely
       | allergic. People who do a lot of kintsugi develop a tolerance for
       | it but it's an annoyance that most hobbyists just don't need.
       | 
       | Epoxies can be perfectly food safe and the FDA has a database [1]
       | although it's not particularly user friendly. You can get MAX CLR
       | or similar from Amazon. I wouldn't use it in an oven above 300F
       | but it's fine for boiling temps. These FDA approved two part
       | epoxies are used all over the place in hospitals and food
       | manufacturing facilities where they're used to coat rough
       | surfaces that would otherwise harbor bacteria.
       | 
       | [1]
       | https://www.cfsanappsexternal.fda.gov/scripts/fdcc/?set=Indi...
        
         | giraffe_lady wrote:
         | I spent a few years messing with different approaches with
         | epoxy but I never found anything that could replace urushi.
         | It's really hard to get foodsafe epoxy to cure as hard as
         | urushi, though I did eventually get one I was happy with. But
         | the wheat flour in the traditional material pulls the shards
         | together as it dries, and gives just an incredibly tight and
         | strong bond that can really hold up to actual use of the
         | restored vessel. Epoxy always weakens and fails after a while,
         | while I have urushi/wheat/clay pieces that have been in daily
         | use for years.
         | 
         | Depending on your goals though non-foodsafe epoxy can work
         | well. Thickened marine epoxy, for under-the-waterline boat
         | repairs is rock solid for decorative items. I'm sure it's toxic
         | af and I wouldn't want it anywhere near my food but it would be
         | fine for a lot of the things people want to do kintsugi for.
         | 
         | Cashew lacquer is also pretty cool. It's nowhere near as nasty
         | as urushi and doesn't require a special environment for curing.
         | If I were just getting into it now I'd probably start with
         | that.
        
       | thot_experiment wrote:
       | I recently broke a piece of glassware that had been with me for
       | over a decade. I have all the pieces and I'm wondering if it's
       | possible to stick it in a kiln and run a heat cycle that will
       | cause all the cracks to flow together without deforming the
       | shape, and barring that if there's a thin gold glue I could use
       | to do some approximation of this technique but with cracks that
       | are essentially zero width.
        
         | throwup238 wrote:
         | A _very_ skilled glassmaker might be able to fuse the pieces
         | together by heating the edges and pushing them together if the
         | piece is simple enough but in general, no. That 's why it's
         | called glass _blowing_ : the air pressure is what gives the
         | glass form while it cools and vitrifies.
        
         | chris1993 wrote:
         | The BBC "repair shop" show recently (last year?) had an episode
         | repairing a shattered vase with some specialist glass repair
         | glue, so you can probably find some for this.
        
       | thingsilearned wrote:
       | For those of you in the Bay Area there's a great Kintsugi
       | workshop that's run out of the SF zen center almost weekly
       | https://stonegoldcrafts.com/
       | 
       | I got into Kintsugi when my toilet needed repair. It's a
       | rewarding craft https://thingsilearned.com/things/my-kintsugi-
       | toilet/
        
         | avtar wrote:
         | For those in Toronto :) https://introjapan.ca/inperson-classes/
         | 
         | No affiliation. I gifted my partner an intro workshop pass and
         | she's been returning for more classes since then.
        
           | criddell wrote:
           | How do you discover classes like this? Are there city-
           | specific guides to interesting classes and seminars that you
           | can take?
        
             | mholt wrote:
             | I'm also looking. The University of Utah has a random one-
             | off kintsugi course this fall but I think it's full
             | already.
        
         | kelnos wrote:
         | I've attended one of those at the Zen Center! My partner took
         | me to one as a birthday present last year. She ended up being
         | kinda frustrated with the process, but I found it soothing and
         | relaxing, and left happy and contented.
         | 
         | The guy running the workshop had us use epoxy and not urushi
         | powder (not surprising; I'm sure all of us would have ended up
         | with severe skin irritation otherwise). The article mentions
         | concerns about food safety; IIRC we were told that the epoxy we
         | were using in the workshop was not food safe, but that it's
         | easy to acquire food-safe versions of it.
         | 
         | We also didn't do this in anywhere near as many steps, with as
         | many different treatments for different sizes/shapes of damage.
         | Ultimately we fully repaired a piece in a couple hours, not the
         | several months that the article author took to do it right.
         | (And the extra care and use of the proper materials shows; the
         | final repaired alligator mug from the article looks orders of
         | magnitude better than my work.)
        
       | JSR_FDED wrote:
       | This is super inspiring and the end result is amazing,
       | congratulations!
        
       | kelnos wrote:
       | > _I knocked it off the kitchen counter and, giving into the
       | idiotic reflex of trying to catch it with my foot, kicked it into
       | the wall instead_
       | 
       | Not idiotic! I've saved more things than I've further damaged by
       | doing this.
        
         | sunaookami wrote:
         | Unless you are dropping a knife ;)
        
           | mauvehaus wrote:
           | Or the business end of a blender. Or a big-ass chisel.
           | 
           | Not hypotheticals, either of those, and not me.
        
       | giraffe_lady wrote:
       | This is really great results for an early project, none of my
       | first few came out anywhere near so good.
       | 
       | I've been doing traditional kintsugi for about twelve years, a
       | couple hundred successful repairs. Though when I started there
       | was very little instruction or english-language resources
       | available. It's become pretty popular for obvious reasons which
       | is great for people getting into it now.
       | 
       | It remains probably the most difficult and frustrating skill I've
       | ever learned. It's really hard to communicate just how
       | meticulous, near-impossible some of the joins can be. There is a
       | _huge_ variety of technique and nuance to learn about different
       | media and lacquer ratios for different kinds of joins  & fills
       | and it all needs to be done by intuition and experience.
       | 
       | And then the medium has no holding power until the curing process
       | is well underway. So you need a lot of creativity to come up with
       | a scaffolding system, pretty much completely unique to each
       | project. Any problem after applying lacquer means hours of
       | careful filing and rework, and more days or weeks of curing.
       | 
       | An edge-of-my-skill repair on a complete shatter takes about 100
       | hours spread out over 2-3 months. Even just an ideal three piece
       | clean break is easily 8-10 hours and a handful of weeks.
        
       | talkingtab wrote:
       | Danger!!! Urushi is basically poison oak/poison ivy sap. Not
       | quite the same, but in that family and with the same effects. Not
       | to scare you off, but if you are interested in this, imagine all
       | the things that can go wrong from if you were to get a tube of
       | poison ivy sap and then do things with it.
       | 
       | That said, Urushi is great and the number of things you can do
       | with it is truly amazing. Just don't do it rashly.
        
       | mholt wrote:
       | My wife recently got into kintsugi. She's learning the
       | traditional method described here. I'm reading these comments
       | with great interest and will be passing this onto her!
       | 
       | Most of the methods taught in the US are "gold relief" methods,
       | which is basically glue with golden pigment mixed in. It doesn't
       | look great but is modern and quick. "Gold flush" methods take a
       | bit more time and are more authentic, but still don't use the
       | traditional materials shown in this article.
       | 
       | Does anyone know where to get these traditional materials for use
       | in classroom settings (i.e. in bulk, preferably discounted)? Not
       | massive scale, just enough for a few classes. The kits have such
       | a tiny amount and are so expensive, even a bulk discount of
       | ~10-20% would be ideal.
        
       | serf wrote:
       | aside from 'the craft' and tradition of the process, is there any
       | real benefit to using legitimate urushiol?
       | 
       | there are _lots_ of bonding agents and epoxies out there that are
       | _not_ urushi based , _actually_ food safe, and just as easily
       | doused in gold dust, and completely compatible with prepared
       | ceramics.
        
         | mholt wrote:
         | What's food-unsafe about cured urushi?
        
           | conkeisterdoor wrote:
           | I don't think the GP was implying that urushi isn't food
           | safe, but rather that some epoxies aren't food safe
        
             | MBCook wrote:
             | The author of the peace also mentioned that while there are
             | food safe epoxies they were worried that they may be less
             | food safe than expected when used with high temperatures
             | like tea or coffee as opposed to being used in a simple
             | serving dish.
        
       | yegle wrote:
       | Apparently there's another styles of repairing ceramic/porcelain:
       | https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-hans/%E9%94%94%E7%93%B7
        
       | vsgherzi wrote:
       | wow it's beautiful. Amazing job. Can you still use it in a
       | dishwasher or microwave?
        
         | giraffe_lady wrote:
         | I have a bunch of kintsugi stuff in regular use so I can
         | answer. Microwave is a definite no! It arcs, kind of like gold-
         | rimmed plates would I guess.
         | 
         | Dishwasher you _can_. The repair is really two parts: the bond
         | that holds it together and the gold dust that covers the
         | lacquer. The join bond can handle the dishwasher. The gold
         | layer needs touchup every few years anyway, but it will need it
         | a lot more often if it goes through the dishwasher regularly.
         | Gold is expensive.
         | 
         | There are some other ways of applying the gold that can hold up
         | better, but they're less common.
        
       | dlbucci wrote:
       | This is awesome! The handle on my favorite mug broke off
       | recently. I tried super gluing it back on, but it broke off after
       | a few trips through the dishwasher (hand washing got old). I was
       | gonna try epoxy next, but I try to avoid that stank whenever I
       | can. Maybe I'll give this a shot.
        
       | tern wrote:
       | I tried to order a kit with urushi powder from Japan recently and
       | they had to cancel the order, saying it was now illegal to import
       | into the US
        
       | astrea wrote:
       | I had no idea it was done with a resin.
        
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