[HN Gopher] Paris's Catacomb Mushrooms (2017)
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       Paris's Catacomb Mushrooms (2017)
        
       Author : jihadjihad
       Score  : 96 points
       Date   : 2024-05-28 19:02 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.atlasobscura.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.atlasobscura.com)
        
       | gniv wrote:
       | Some things seem to have changed since then. All the button
       | mushrooms that I buy from the supermarket say "Origine France".
        
         | averne_ wrote:
         | The mushrooms are imported from China or Poland as mycelium,
         | and the harvest is done in France. Since the law distinguishes
         | between mycelium and mushroom, the mushroom were technically
         | produced in France.
         | 
         | https://web.archive.org/web/20240121180131/https://www.reddi...
        
       | surfingdino wrote:
       | Three questions:
       | 
       | 1. Is the Paris Metro so shallow because of the quarries?
       | 
       | 2. Do mushrooms still grow in the quarries? Has anyone checked
       | recently?
       | 
       | 3. When is a Tim Traveller's video on the subject coming out?
        
         | kergonath wrote:
         | > Is Paris Metro so shallow because of the quarries?
         | 
         | The Paris metro is a mixture of deep, subsurface, and surface
         | tracks. There are a lot of shallow tunnels mostly because cut-
         | and-cover was easier and cheaper than digging deep underground.
         | 
         | Paris is very complicated underground. Besides the quarries
         | there are the sewers, catacombs, some underground lakes,
         | reservoirs, etc. It is definitely a complicating factor when
         | planning new metro tunnels.
         | 
         | > When is Tim Traveller's video on the subject coming out?
         | 
         | You'd think exploring the closed parts of the catacombs would
         | be right up his alley (actually I would be surprised if he did
         | not try, even though he might not want to put that on YouTube).
         | They've been cracking up on trespassers recently but it still
         | is fairly popular with the urban exploration crowd.
        
           | surfingdino wrote:
           | > Paris is very complicated underground. Besides the quarries
           | there are the sewers, catacombs, some underground lakes,
           | reservoirs, etc. It is definitely a complicating factor when
           | planning new metro tunnels.
           | 
           | I wonder if the French are considering digging underneath all
           | those obstacles? Seems to be the way London has gone with the
           | Elizabeth Line. Although that may still be shallower than
           | Paris' quarries and lakes.
        
             | _notreallyme_ wrote:
             | > I wonder if the French are considering digging underneath
             | all those obstacles?
             | 
             | The problem is the Seine phreatic zone, which starts
             | usually between 15 to 25m below the surface. Some GRS
             | galleries are actually completely inundated and others have
             | a level of water that varies between the seasons.
             | 
             | In order to have some metro going underneath the Seine
             | river, they had to freeze it first. It is not an easy task,
             | so there must be a real advantage to going under the Seine.
        
             | sofixa wrote:
             | > I wonder if the French are considering digging underneath
             | all those obstacles
             | 
             | Paris has been doing it for decades. All new lines in Paris
             | (such as metro line 14, opened in 1998, RER E) have been
             | dug by tunnel boring machines, and are at a depth below
             | 20m. Same goes for all new lines outside of Paris proper,
             | like most of the Grand Paris Express 200km+ new lines.
        
           | tuetuopay wrote:
           | Tim-like pedantry corner: the quarries and the catacumbs are
           | actually the same thing. Catacumbs are parts of the quarries
           | that have been turned to ossuaries, and are reachable from
           | the wider quarry network.
           | 
           | > You'd think exploring the closed parts of the catacombs
           | would be right up his alley
           | 
           | I'm not that sure, since he does not want to do illegal stuff
           | (like for the belgian test track where the factory is now
           | closed to the public). As for visiting those parts legally,
           | well, I'm only aware of a few instances where there has been
           | the media granted access. But it was more for documentaries
           | about how the police works down there, not for a general
           | history lesson. Both the police nor the IGC (the french
           | administration managing the quarries) will bother with Tim
           | sadly. So yes it'd be up his alley if he could do it legally.
           | 
           | > They've been cracking up on trespassers recently
           | 
           | It's actually the opposite. There's a constant cat-and-mouse
           | game going on, and they're switching strategies recently,
           | which I could experience first-hand. Current strategy is
           | about prevention because they know they cannot prevent people
           | from getting down there, so they're emphasizing safety and
           | not hurting yourself because they "don't want to get woken up
           | at 9AM a sunday morning because someone got lost".
        
             | kergonath wrote:
             | > Tim-like pedantry corner: the quarries and the catacumbs
             | are actually the same thing. Catacumbs are parts of the
             | quarries that have been turned to ossuaries, and are
             | reachable from the wider quarry network.
             | 
             | Fair enough. It's still useful to distinguish them because
             | they evoke different things. Also, aren't the bits we can
             | visit physically separated from the broader quarry network
             | due to cave-ins?
             | 
             | > I'm not that sure, since he does not want to do illegal
             | stuff
             | 
             | He certainly used to do this sort of things (and I did not
             | check recently but in the past he posted some videos filmed
             | in places where he was not allowed to be).
             | 
             | There are places that are normally closed off but that can
             | be open occasionally like during the heritage days. At
             | least one quarry, the Montsouris reservoir, and I think
             | parts of the old sewers as well. Those are already quite
             | cool and interesting.
             | 
             | > It's actually the opposite. There's a constant cat-and-
             | mouse game going on, and they're switching strategies
             | recently, which I could experience first-hand.
             | 
             | There's always a bit of both. I don't have a recent first
             | hand experience, it's just a mate who works with the
             | Parisian fire brigade. There are near misses regularly,
             | though rarely as bad as the teenagers who got lost for 3
             | days a couple of years ago.
             | 
             | > they're emphasizing safety and not hurting yourself
             | because they "don't want to get woken up at 9AM a sunday
             | morning because someone got lost".
             | 
             | Makes sense. Going on a rescue mission before the morning
             | coffee is just not done :)
        
               | tuetuopay wrote:
               | > Also, aren't the bits we can visit physically separated
               | from the broader quarry network due to cave-ins?
               | 
               | The bits that can be visited legally is the museum, and
               | it's isolated with man-made walls, not accidental cave-
               | ins. It's very much on purpose. There have been several
               | occurences of people digging holes from the illegal part
               | to the museum for fun (like doing parties), swiftly fixed
               | by the IGC. Speaking of the IGC, their sole purpose is to
               | avoid said cave-ins.
               | 
               | And to expand a bit about the pedantic distinction: there
               | are multiple ossuaries in the largest network of
               | quarries: the official one, and two others only
               | accessible illegally. There's one under the Montparnasse
               | cemetery (the one visible in most catacumbs youtube
               | videos), and another one near porte d'orleans.
               | 
               | > At least one quarry, the Montsouris reservoir, and I
               | think parts of the old sewers as well. Those are already
               | quite cool and interesting.
               | 
               | Yup! Those are definitely worth a visit. And fun fact,
               | there are two "layers" to the montsouris reservoir: the
               | top one with the water, that can be visited, and the
               | bottom ones, which are the foundations of said water
               | "tank". It's a forest of large pillars with a few
               | artifacts. AFAIK those are not visitable legally, but
               | were illegally due to a crawlspace between the illegal
               | part of the quarries and it. It was quite fun :)
               | 
               | > There are near misses regularly
               | 
               | Indeed. Most of the times where the fire brigade is
               | called is when there are accidents in the accesses to the
               | quarries: opening manholes, falling off ladders, etc. And
               | whenever such an accident occurs, the authorities closes
               | off the access to avoid further accidents. Well, unless
               | it's a safe one to avoid more dangerous ones to be opened
               | by people. I've used several such accesses that where ...
               | not smart to use, to say the least :)
               | 
               | (oh and pass the bonjour to your mate from someone I hope
               | he'll never have to rescue!)
               | 
               | > teenagers who got lost for 3 days a couple of years
               | ago.
               | 
               | this is very rare; usually from a combination of drug use
               | and sheer bad luck. given how many people there are
               | dwelling during the weekend, it's rare for noone to
               | stuble on you when lost.
        
         | tuetuopay wrote:
         | I'll reply only on the second point because that's a topic I
         | know (I happen to wander quite often in those quarries). And
         | no, there is no mushroom production anymore in the quarries.
         | 
         | The paris area is too crowded now, and for economies of scale,
         | existing quarries are too hard to use, and will use old
         | quarries further away (but not _as_ old as the  "catacumbs" to
         | have larger tunnels easier to work in). Also, what's often
         | called the catacumbs are quarries dating back to the middle
         | ages, and thus are narrow, turny, wet, etc. Just a pain to work
         | in.
         | 
         | Oh, and don't forget the dwellers that like to go down there,
         | and would be sure to spoil all the crops.
        
       | netsharc wrote:
       | I read "mushrooms" as "museums" and thought this is about the
       | catacombs where they stored all the human bones, because the
       | cemeteries were full... It's open for public tours:
       | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CfazQ2P8D8
       | 
       | I've been there, and thinking back to it, the amount of bones is
       | horrific. Each skull used to have a brain in it, and was an
       | individual...
        
         | ndsipa_pomu wrote:
         | The catacombs in Naples are worth a visit too
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catacombs_of_San_Gennaro
        
       | mchinen wrote:
       | I'm assuming the mushroom in question is agaricus biosporus in
       | white button form. Interesting to hear the 3 star Michelin chef
       | say there is a huge difference between paris mushrooms and
       | industrial mushrooms of the same species due to the natural way
       | it grows, because mushroom foragers often find this species in
       | the wild and it's cousin agaricus campestris, but I never hear
       | anyone mention it is particularly better than store bought
       | mushrooms. The wild ones I've tried tasted fairly similar. For
       | other cultivated mushrooms like lion's mane or oyster, foragers
       | also don't claim huge taste benefits to the wild ones, and there
       | is usually some fly larvae even if they look good.
       | 
       | Do the catacombs provide some extra benefit in substrate or
       | environment for the taste? I'm now curious about trying these,
       | and I also wonder how they would do in a blind test.
        
         | Kaijo wrote:
         | The article claims that it does, because of the limestone
         | terrior. But I don't have much confidence in that claim,
         | because the author is obviously at pains to make this mushroom
         | sound as special as possible for the sake of a story, calling
         | it a "unique species" when it is just another cultivated
         | variety of the same old Agaricus bisporus.
        
       | thsksbd wrote:
       | "Ledoyen attributes this to the elusive French idea of terroir.
       | No translation accurately explains this concept [...]"
       | 
       | Terroir means earth, hence land (as in Terra for the name of
       | planet Earth). Every peasant everywhere throughout all time
       | understood and understands that the local soil and conditions
       | affect the final agricultural product.
       | 
       | There's nothing elusive or untranslatable about the French word.
        
         | verisimi wrote:
         | 'Territory', would surely be the almost perfect, single word,
         | translation.
        
           | alex_duf wrote:
           | I don't know if territory captures the entirety of the
           | meaning. There's a notion of culture and tradition that isn't
           | captured by the kinda geographic meaning of territory
        
             | ChrisKnott wrote:
             | It seems like it's a bit like "home soil" which has
             | cultural connotations.
             | 
             | I can't think of an exact single word in English for the
             | translation but I imagine every large country has the
             | concept of regional cuisines and farming traditions feeding
             | into a regional identity
             | 
             | British people often point out that other languages don't
             | really have a word for "fair play" but it's not like these
             | cultures don't understand and respect the importance of
             | integrity, respect, justice etc.
             | 
             | In general this don't-have-a-word-for thing is massively
             | overplayed (hygge probably the worst example). We're all
             | the same species of ape.
        
           | MisterTea wrote:
           | Id say the word "regional" is a closer fit to capturing the
           | original meaning.
        
         | lelandfe wrote:
         | Notably you didn't translate the meaning, or, at least, "earth"
         | or "land" is certainly too narrow.
         | 
         | Terroir is very broad, including the plants growing nearby, the
         | climate, the topography, nearby features (grown near a river?),
         | sunlight, and so on. I'm not a wine expert, but I know there's
         | even further things which can be included, some contentious,
         | like tradition / process, microbes, etc.
         | 
         | "Growing conditions" is a bit closer
        
           | tuetuopay wrote:
           | see my other comment, but terroir is not only applicable to
           | wine. it's more about stuff that's made in some specific
           | place. and the people with their traditions are, I would say,
           | as important to the notion of terroir.
        
         | tuetuopay wrote:
         | This is a very very restrictive way to explain "terroir".
         | 
         | The simplest way I could describe this word as we use it in
         | france is "a region along with its traditions and local
         | peculiarities". So yes, the earth is part of it, but the
         | culture, the traditions, the people, the crops, are part of the
         | terroir.
         | 
         | For example, anyone can grow ducks. But the southeast of France
         | has a long tradition of duck breeding and food products made of
         | ducks, and is renowned for it. There is knowledge and
         | craftmanship involved in the notion of terroir.
         | 
         | Or, hunters will often turn their game into terrine (i'll let
         | you google that), and pretty much anyone will make it roughly
         | the same. Granted boar may be tastier in the south due to the
         | sun and the soil, but I have really no idea. But the notion of
         | terroir enters there because each region will add its own
         | twist; like the cognac region often making "terrines au
         | cognac", or normandy "terrines au calvados".
         | 
         | Another example is "saucisson" or dry sausage. Regions will
         | often make produces of terroir by adding local stuff; like in
         | savoie where you'll find saucisson with beaufort or other
         | mountains cheese in it. Or in normandie you'll find barbecue
         | merguez (hot sausage) with bits of camembert inside.
         | 
         | We tend to use the term quite loosely, and it's pretty common
         | to hear about humans being pure products of the terroir they
         | grew up in.
        
           | thsksbd wrote:
           | (Nothing here is to cast aspersions to France or the French
           | whom Im rather fond of)
           | 
           | Again, English words for dirt, e.g. land, can be used for the
           | exact same meaning. The word terroir is not elusive; rather
           | this is just another case of upper class English speakers
           | fetishizing French culture mixed with French cultural conceit
           | all too eager to oblige.
           | 
           | Italians have the exact same concept of "terra" when they
           | explain why a little village in Umbria makes the best
           | prosciutto (it hits the best humidity level allowing for
           | optimal drying rate). Or why not all the land in Montalcino
           | bear the same quality wine (mostly due to the quality of the
           | amount of sun/shade)
           | 
           | And the Spaniards have the same concept with their "Tierra",
           | including to describe people's attitude from those regions
           | (just go to Euskal Herria)
           | 
           | In fact, your entire message is basically the definition of
           | the EU's DOC.
           | 
           | The idea that terroir is an elusive French concept is also
           | incredibly Eurocentric. Im European (origin) so I only have
           | European examples; but do you really think that advanced
           | civilizations like the Chinese or Japanese don't have the
           | exact same concept as "terroir"?
        
             | mytailorisrich wrote:
             | No "terroir" has not the same meaning as earth or land.
             | It's wider and related to both the local environment and
             | local practices.
             | 
             | Wikipedia says:
             | 
             |  _Terroir is a French term used to describe the
             | environmental factors that affect a crop 's phenotype,
             | including unique environment contexts, farming practices
             | and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, these
             | contextual characteristics are said to have a character;
             | terroir also refers to this character._
        
               | adammarples wrote:
               | Yes, he clearly knows that, he gave multiple specific
               | examples of local environment and local practices. I
               | agree, terroir is not an elusive and untranslatable
               | concept, it's a well understood and widely translated
               | concept.
        
               | mytailorisrich wrote:
               | Except he provided an inaccurate translation so it seems
               | to me that the concept is not so well understood...
               | 
               | IMHO it is indeed untranslatable in the sense that there
               | is no single word in English with the same meaning so
               | that a translation requires a description (illustrated by
               | my quote from Wikipedia that spends a whole paragraph
               | explaining what it means).
        
               | kergonath wrote:
               | The concepts are not hard to understand and it is not
               | uniquely French, far from it. That said, I cannot think
               | of a single-word equivalent in English.
        
               | adammarples wrote:
               | I can't think of a single-word translation for
               | schadenfreude either, but that doesn't mean anything
        
               | mytailorisrich wrote:
               | As a French, and native French speaker, I would think
               | that I should know... The reaction of the HN crowd is
               | hilarious sometimes.
        
             | nkoren wrote:
             | > do you really think that advanced civilizations like the
             | Chinese or Japanese don't have the exact same concept as
             | "terroir"?
             | 
             | No, they do not. But they _do_ have other concepts which in
             | turn cannot be translated into European languages. The
             | great thing about human consciousness, culture, and
             | language is that not everybody is working off the same
             | epistemological map. There really _are_ concepts which don
             | 't translate 1:1 from one language to another. That doesn't
             | mean they can't be understood across cultures -- just that
             | they may take many paragraphs of text to convey the meaning
             | accurately, whereas in their original cultural context that
             | meaning is embedded in the shared experience of how that
             | word is used.
             | 
             | Think about Greek words for "Love"
             | (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_words_for_love). With
             | a short paragraph of text you can at least the _gist_ of
             | their meaning (but there are definitely shades of meaning
             | which will nevertheless be missed, barring greater
             | immersion in its use). Suffice it to say, simply mapping
             | those words onto  "Love" will lose a huge amount of
             | meaning.
             | 
             | Agreed that it's annoying to present words that aren't
             | directly translatable as incomprehensible mysteries, which
             | could never be understood by the non-French mind. Of course
             | it can be understood, it just takes a bit of work to
             | understand this. But equally, I don't think it's
             | appropriate to go the other direction and think that
             | there's a straightforward 1:1 mapping, when there
             | definitely isn't.
        
             | wongarsu wrote:
             | I agree that saying it's an elusive uniquely French concept
             | is wrong. It is a fairly common concept. But at the same
             | time I don't think English has a good word for it.
             | 
             | Culturally that's not that surprising. The idea that a
             | sausage from one region of the country is materially
             | different than a similarly produced sausage from the a
             | different part of the country is common in France, Germany
             | or Italy, but doesn't seem common in England or the USA.
             | And since it's not a thing in their culture it's not a
             | thing in their language.
             | 
             | Which in English/American modus operandi means importing
             | the word from the first place they heard it (usually
             | France) and claiming it originated there.
        
             | merry_flame wrote:
             | I was extremely pleasantly surprised by the fact that
             | Ethiopians seem to sharre a proper understanding of terroir
             | for qat and honey and, boy, are there major differences
             | from one region to the next. (Astonishingly I didn't
             | perceive anything similar for coffee, which was dark
             | roasted almost everywhere I went, despite astounding
             | bioclimatic and genetic conditions throughout the coffee
             | belts.) The Chinese certainly have something like it, but
             | probably more refined and articulated around much higher
             | social classes. Certain teas were paired with mineral
             | waters from a specific source for instance -- that far
             | exceeds the more rustic French notion of terroir.
             | 
             | That being said, terroir is something more that just "land"
             | and includes the idea of common rules or ways of doing
             | things, and of course genetics.
             | 
             | When a type of cheese can only use the highly creamy milk
             | from a specific breed of cow, the result is highly specific
             | and tasty, yet it doesn't express anything that's really
             | related to the land itself at that stage. Camembert is
             | widely understood as a typical terroir-expressing product,
             | yet it would be pretty much the same if it were produced
             | elsewhere than in Normandy with the same production
             | methods, breeds, yeasts, and same access to pasture for
             | cows for instance. It's the common approach that lends
             | terroir to it. (Well, theoretically, because the an
             | unpasteurized Camembert fermier will actually be more
             | similar to a creamy, soft-ripened farmer's Brie than a
             | pasteurized industrial Camembert, the slight difference is
             | butterfat content notwithstanding).
             | 
             | The fetishizing actually transformed the way local products
             | are perceived and grown, by lending importance to the idea
             | that instead of going for something generic, we should be
             | aiming to express something more, the way some grape
             | varietal can express the underlying mineral bedbrock (as
             | with Chardonnay in Burgundy's Chablis area, which is
             | geologically a region of Kimmeridgian limestone). It's posh
             | to some extent. I remember meeting a old wine producer from
             | the Loire region at a wine tasting a few years back who was
             | befuddled by some of the audience's questions and that
             | basically asked us to keep the complex questions for his
             | son because he had only been trained to make wine that was
             | nice to drink in the same way his forefathers did and just
             | had no idea in what way his soil and grapes were special
             | because those were the only ones he knew.
             | 
             | A lot of it is fake/commercial gatekeeping and poring over
             | details of DOC regulations can be quite disturbing at
             | times. For instance, DOC foie gras produced from Barbary
             | ducks, which cannot naturally deliver fat liver like geese
             | and that were never used before being hyperselected by the
             | French agricultural research institute INRA in the postwar
             | era. Meat products or cheese that use generic methods that
             | could be applied anywhere seem to be the worst offenders.
             | DOC cheese with clonal lines of moulds, give me a break...
             | DOC wine in Italy seems to be similarly impacted if I'm to
             | believe Jonathan Nossiter of 'Mondovino''s fame.
             | Interestingly, one of the Italian winemakers in his follow-
             | up documentary 'Natural Resistance' actually says something
             | along the lines of "there's no concept of terroir in
             | Italian"" and basically everyone in that documentary use
             | the French word. I really do think it's an interesting,
             | elusive concept, but one that intuitively clicks with
             | people throughout the globe that don't necessarily have as
             | mature a word for the same ideas and that most French
             | people don't necessarily understand either because of how
             | commercialized it is and how prevalent the paradigm of
             | uniformization has become. Everyone wants terroir, but
             | Camembert uses albino moulds because everyone wants them
             | perfectly white, cider comes with labels mentioning how the
             | liquid might be cloudy but it remains perfectly safe to
             | drink, etc.
        
             | dudeinjapan wrote:
             | In Japanese we have the word Feng Tu  (Fuudo) which is a
             | compound of Feng  "fuu" which means in this context
             | "manner/style" (it can also mean "wind") and Tu  "do" which
             | means "earth/soil". Like "terroir" it describes the
             | interplay between the physical land, local customs, and
             | spiritual aspects.
        
             | ThePowerOfFuet wrote:
             | > Again, English words for dirt, e.g. land, can be used for
             | the exact same meaning.
             | 
             | Yeah, no, you don't get it. The stuff you can hold in your
             | hand is maybe a quarter of it.
        
         | kergonath wrote:
         | > There's nothing elusive or untranslatable about the French
         | word.
         | 
         | Indeed. But "terroir" also encompasses things like climate,
         | techniques, and processing (and therefore indirectly people,
         | know-how and tradition). Not only the land. It's a bit broader
         | than just the place of origin.
        
         | g15jv2dp wrote:
         | "Terroir" does not mean "earth". The word for "earth" is
         | "terre". They are obviously related, but not the same thing.
         | Terroir is about much more than just the soil. Your translation
         | is inaccurate.
        
       | DrNosferatu wrote:
       | So... then these mushrooms are composting human remains, right?
        
         | advisedwang wrote:
         | Only bones were interred in the catacombs.
        
           | DrNosferatu wrote:
           | Why the downnote?
           | 
           | Aren't human bones human remains too?
        
             | advisedwang wrote:
             | I didn't downvote, but to further explain: a pile of bones
             | won't compost and won't grown mushrooms.
        
       | notorandit wrote:
       | A similar thing can be found in Napoli Sotterranea
       | 
       | https://www.napolisotterranea.org/il-percorso/il-percorso-or...
        
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