[HN Gopher] Calendar types in watches
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       Calendar types in watches
        
       Author : farslan
       Score  : 163 points
       Date   : 2024-04-29 17:43 UTC (2 days ago)
        
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       | joshlemer wrote:
       | Anyone know about any mechanical wall clocks, grandfather clocks,
       | or mantle clocks (? I mean ones that stand on their own) which
       | show the date? It seems that this is a really commonly sought
       | after feature of wrist watches but for some reason hard to find
       | or non existent in mechanical non-wrist clocks.
        
         | quartesixte wrote:
         | Unfortunately they're not really a thing. Some
         | grandfather/grandmother clocks came with moon phases, but
         | innovation never made it further.
         | 
         | IMO mostly has to do with the fact that mechanical clocks
         | didn't see much innovation over the past century. The most
         | talented watch makers have gone on to watches and people
         | largely stopped buying Grandfather clocks.
         | 
         | Not to mention, other obvious problems of weight, material
         | costs, and the increased size requiring more power to turn all
         | those gears.
        
           | joshlemer wrote:
           | Dang that's a shame. One would think though, if the
           | mechanical design is already done for wristwatches, it should
           | be trivial to port that design over to full-sized clocks,
           | literally just scale the mechanism up!
        
             | al_borland wrote:
             | I think at this stage of the game, none of these things are
             | made for utility, they are made to flex watchmaking skill.
             | Building something big isn't as impressive and building
             | something small. Unless you're talking about the air clocks
             | of Paris. Those are still rather impressive, because of the
             | scale [0].
             | 
             | [0] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gol_p2aWrJg
        
           | dylan604 wrote:
           | Every 24 hours, advance the DoW through 360deg/7 increments.
           | At the same time, every 24 hours advance the DoM through 28,
           | 29, 30, 31 increments. How do you now keep DoW and DoM in
           | proper sync when DoM needs to be updated ~every other month?
        
         | kayodelycaon wrote:
         | Probably because you can more easily refer to a calendar on a
         | wall when the clock doesn't move.
        
           | knodi123 wrote:
           | Imagine how well it would be received if you said "My
           | grandfather clock has a date display- except it's manual, you
           | have to twist a little knob once a day to keep it correct."
           | 
           | That's how I feel about wall calendars.
        
             | abdullahkhalids wrote:
             | You can build a habit of doing it every morning, like
             | brushing your teeth. The physical act of fixing the date
             | every day can help ground you and slow down the passage of
             | days.
        
               | knodi123 wrote:
               | Hm. Maybe so, interesting thought.
        
         | WillAdams wrote:
         | I have a mechanical wall clock in storage which shows the day
         | of the week as well as the date --- it was made in Japan ---
         | it's in storage 'cause it was over-tightened and the main
         | spring broken, and rather than being repaired, it was just re-
         | fastened, so now it runs fast and gains a couple of minutes
         | each month (the chime is also rather loud for a 1,200 sq. ft.
         | home).
        
         | joshlemer wrote:
         | FWIW I've seen some DIY enthusiasts do some really cool things,
         | I think this one for instance turned out really cool and would
         | be a breathtaking wall piece. Even better if it ran and was
         | powered fully by the counterweight mechanism rather than
         | electronically https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_8_N8HKOXw
        
       | mik1998 wrote:
       | Calendars is a part of why I've been wearing Casio digital
       | watches for a long time.
        
         | knodi123 wrote:
         | The display on the Timex Expedition is my favorite. For some
         | reason I just find it more readable than a casio- maybe it's
         | because the display segments are closer together? Or the
         | greater font-size contrast in the time vs date?
        
         | al_borland wrote:
         | I spent years looking for my perfect travel watch after being
         | bit by the watch bug. After looking for years (literally 10
         | years), I've found it and couldn't be happier... the Casio
         | world time.
         | 
         | My first thought was to go for a GMT, but those can't handle
         | time zones that aren't on the hour, like India. Trying to find
         | a mechanical watch that solves for this is very difficult. I
         | was stuck in this purgatory for so long.
         | 
         | I don't remember what led me to the Casio, but whatever it was
         | made me completely reevaluate what I wanted out of the watch.
         | The quartz movement became a feature, thanks to the 10 year
         | battery. I can grab it and go whenever I need, and change the
         | battery whenever I renew my passport. The low cost is a
         | feature, as I don't have to treat it well or worry about it, or
         | worry that it will make me a target. If anything happens, oh
         | well, it was $40. It has 37(?) timezones and can handle the odd
         | ones, and handles DST independently for each timezone. Its
         | fantastic. I don't think any mechanical watch can do what it
         | does, and if one can, it would cost more than my house and take
         | the better part of a day to set.
         | 
         | The Casio is one of the cheapest watches I own, but whenever I
         | put it on it makes me so happy, because it reminds me I finally
         | solved my travel watch problem. I just finished my first trip
         | with it and already saw the value of the independent DST
         | function.
         | 
         | I've found some mod sites that sell nicer cases and bands to
         | make it more durable, but I decided that defeats some of the
         | purpose, as the cheapness is a feature. It was helpful to find
         | out an eraser can be used to remove some of the ridiculous text
         | on the case. That makes it look much better.
        
           | joshlemer wrote:
           | Not just in watchmaking but in general I agree with this idea
           | that the cheapness is in and of itself, a feature. Like, not
           | only because you can afford it, but the fact that something
           | is so inexpensive actually enhances my enjoyment of it, or
           | rather, something being very expensive detracts from it. It's
           | the same with, say, bicycles. Yeah, people can fork over $5k
           | for a carbon fiber state of the art road bike, but then it
           | weighs on you when you take it out. Don't want to lean it
           | against anything, worried taking it downtown in case someone
           | mugs you for it, can't leave it out to pop into the shop. You
           | end up just not even having a good time, compared to a
           | beater. Same for cars, furniture, instruments, etc.
        
           | dallas wrote:
           | I recently got a russet brown Vario strap for my silver
           | "Casio Royale" and I do rather like it. I'm not ashamed to
           | admit I prefer cheap and cheerful digital watches to pedigree
           | analog watches. We are programmers/electronics folks after
           | all. I got a Sensor Watch Lite board for my F-91W after
           | reading about it here on HN and it's brilliant. I've written
           | a bunch of hobby-related complications for it.
        
           | piltdownman wrote:
           | If you're settling for Quartz, why not split the difference
           | and get a good Atomic Time watch for under $500 like a
           | Citizen?
           | 
           | https://www.citizenwatch.com/us/en/collection/mens-atomic-
           | ti...
        
             | al_borland wrote:
             | I looked at Citizen briefly during my search.
             | 
             | I don't think they have anything that solves the non-
             | standard time zone problem.
             | 
             | At $500, it's moving into a market segment where I'm going
             | to care if something happens to it. I want to be carefree
             | on vacation.
             | 
             | In this particular case, the Casio is unapologetically
             | quartz. I don't think I'm settling here, and it's not a
             | cheap watch pretending to be a more expensive watch. It's a
             | cheap beater watch that also happens to have a world time
             | function. With an analog watch, I'd feel like I was
             | settling for quartz... unless it's a Spring Drive or F.P.
             | Journe.
             | 
             | At home I have some nice automatics that I general wear.
             | For these, I prefer a very simple aesthetic, a no-date dial
             | is ideal. Citizen tends to have very busy designs.
        
             | joshlemer wrote:
             | Are these watches actually atomic clocks
             | (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomic_clock) or are they
             | "atomic" in some other sense?
        
               | al_borland wrote:
               | They receive a signal from an atomic clock on a regular
               | basis to sync up and avoid drift. Between those signal,
               | they use a quartz movement to keep time.
        
       | throw0101b wrote:
       | Personally I find it more handy to know _day_ (of week) than
       | _date_ (of month), but I don 't think I've every seen a watch
       | that does day-only, usually either date-only or day-date.
        
         | madcaptenor wrote:
         | I think the idea here might be that people already know what
         | day it is but they have to think about the date.
        
           | throw0101b wrote:
           | > _I think the idea here might be that people already know
           | what day it is but they have to think about the date._
           | 
           | I don't know about you, but for myself I find the days kind
           | of blur together (especially (during-COVID, post-COVID) WFH).
           | 
           | I rarely need to know day-of-month.
        
           | tialaramex wrote:
           | That might even be true for many of the population, but I'm
           | exactly in the target demographic of people who get unsure of
           | such things.
           | 
           | My favourite ever gift from friends was that people bought me
           | (last century, long before smartphones) a _24 hour_ radio
           | synchronized digital alarm clock which knew the day and full
           | date including year. Because while often I know 0600 from
           | 1800, not always, and on a particularly bad day maybe I 'm
           | not even sure which week this is. I didn't _need_ the year
           | really, but it felt appropriately completionist, just in
           | case.
        
             | throw0101b wrote:
             | > _My favourite ever gift from friends was that people
             | bought me (last century, long before smartphones) a 24 hour
             | radio synchronized digital alarm clock which knew the day
             | and full date including year._
             | 
             | I know a retiree that got this as a (sort-of, sort-of-not
             | joke) gift because she mentioned that she sometimes forgets
             | the day:
             | 
             | * https://www.lacrossetechnology.com/products/513-1419v4
             | 
             | (Works best near a window where the radio signal from
             | Colorado can be heard.)
        
           | akira2501 wrote:
           | I've gone into the office on Saturday more often than I care
           | to admit.
        
             | dylan604 wrote:
             | not once ever have I made that mistake. I might have woken
             | up on a Saturday and thought it was a weekday, but well
             | before appearing at work was that confusion cleared up. How
             | does one do that more than once?
             | 
             | Even work from home is immediately cleared up once I look
             | at my computer screen.
        
           | berkes wrote:
           | I'm also that demographic.
           | 
           | In my case, a combination of having no kids, being
           | entrepreneur (self employed) and having ADHD.
           | 
           | I have to ask people "is it tuesday or monday today" at least
           | once a month. It gives strange looks. People often look at
           | me, clearly trying to figure out if I'm bullshitting them.
           | But I honestly forget such -for me- unnecessary details.
           | 
           | But I guess having children, or a regular job, or both, gives
           | a firm anchor of weekends and weekly rhythms. I've had long
           | periods of jobs were I too had such anchors.
           | 
           | Best way to explain it, is when you are on holiday (in one
           | place), for a few weeks, you also don't know what day it is.
           | I guess I always have holidays?
        
             | kybernetyk wrote:
             | >But I guess having children, or a regular job, or both,
             | gives a firm anchor of weekends and weekly rhythms.
             | 
             | I think it's not having the "regular job". I have a kid
             | whom I daily bring to day care and I regularly don't know
             | what weekday it is.
             | 
             | Reminds me of the Downton Abbey joke(not really a joke)
             | about "what is a weekend?":
             | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onUkNsXks54
        
               | AlecSchueler wrote:
               | How do you know if it's the weekend or not?
        
           | crazygringo wrote:
           | Yup. I totally get (from other comments here) that there are
           | exceptions, because everyone's different!
           | 
           | But most people always know exactly what day of the week it
           | is, but rarely know the date. (The only time I'm _ever_
           | unaware of the day is on vacation occasionally.)
           | 
           | And the date is needed basically every time I sign anything
           | on paper, as you almost always put a date next to any
           | signature -- whether you're writing a check, filling out
           | forms at the doctor's office, signing consent forms for an
           | activity, and so forth.
        
         | aidenn0 wrote:
         | That's me as well; I had to look through so many watches that
         | show the date with so few that show the weekday. I wish my
         | Seiko didn't show the date because I have to adjust it 5 times
         | a year, but the day-of-week is always right.
         | 
         | Also, Seiko's watchfinder won't let you filter based on whether
         | or not it has a DoW complication; very annoying.
        
         | al_borland wrote:
         | This would actually be a very nice complication, as it would
         | never need to be reset, as long as the watch stays wound. I'm
         | surprised it's not something I've seen, or even thought of.
         | 
         | I ended up settling on no-date watches, as I find setting the
         | date to be annoying, and it's not something I need that often.
         | When I do need it, I have my phone. I think I'd ultimately feel
         | the same way about a day of the week complication.
        
         | josters wrote:
         | This[1] 1980s Raketa has an interesting visual display of the
         | day of the week. The red dot corresponds to the current day. It
         | does however show the date as a number on the bottom as well.
         | 
         | [1]: https://mroatman.wixsite.com/watches-of-the-
         | ussr/raketa?ligh...
        
       | mmcgaha wrote:
       | My eyes are so bad now that I would rather have a no date.
       | Strangely the no-date watches tend to be out of my price range.
        
         | aidenn0 wrote:
         | The Seiko Essentials series has several watches without
         | complications; some have a street price of under $200.
        
           | buescher wrote:
           | Some even omit the second hand which is the most technically
           | correct version of "without complications". Also the most
           | traditional/formal for a men's dress watch or women's watch.
        
         | jddj wrote:
         | For an automatic with no date, the bulova hack is quite nice if
         | the vintage field look works for you.
         | 
         | The one I had was great for the price, probably the most
         | accurate automatic I ever owned but that could well be luck.
        
         | al_borland wrote:
         | There is also an issue where some cheap no-date watches use a
         | complication with a date, and just don't cut out the dial to
         | show it. I try to watch out for this whenever I'm looking for a
         | watch.
        
         | throw0101b wrote:
         | > _My eyes are so bad now that I would rather have a no date.
         | Strangely the no-date watches tend to be out of my price
         | range._
         | 
         | Have a look at Fleiger-style ("pilot watches") watches:
         | 
         | * https://timeandtidewatches.com/best-flieger-watches/
         | 
         | * https://www.gearpatrol.com/watches/a97397/flieger-watches/
         | 
         | * https://teddybaldassarre.com/blogs/watches/flieger-watches
         | 
         | Models available ranging from US$150 to $15000.
        
       | jmyeet wrote:
       | Patek Phillippe has a complication not mentioned on this list
       | that is one of the most complex complication ever built: the
       | Calibre 89 [1] that can keep track of when Easter is (to a
       | point).
       | 
       | Another contender is the Vacheron Constantin 57260 [2].
       | 
       | Here [3] is a good demonstration of how a perpetual calendar
       | works.
       | 
       | [1]: https://hausmann-co.com/en/the-patek-philippe-
       | calibre-89-the...
       | 
       | [2]: https://www.prestigetime.com/blog/worlds-most-complicated-
       | wa...
       | 
       | [3]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YERho3Q4Abo
        
         | smitty1110 wrote:
         | Ah yes, the Hebrew calendar on the 57260 is sorta mind-bending
         | to figure out. It's hard to imagine figuring that out by mere
         | observation and tabulating records. Their more recent Berkley
         | Grand Complication [1] took things a step further with a
         | Chinese Perpetual Calendar, which is kinda hard to explain. The
         | article linked does a better job than I would at walking
         | through the system.
         | 
         | 1: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-
         | const...
        
       | beckerdo wrote:
       | A very good article, well explained, and I appreciate the photos
       | of fine watches.
       | 
       | As shown, date complications are very tough to calculate and
       | there are many levels of features.
       | 
       | However, the phases of the moon complication is not discussed in
       | much depth here. Is it a simple calculation independent of the
       | date?
        
         | blacksmith_tb wrote:
         | Not a watchmaker, but I would expect those complications to
         | just use average values to show the current lunation[1].
         | 
         | 1: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunar_phase#Calculating_phase
        
         | int08h wrote:
         | The average duration between any two moon phases is 29.530589
         | days.
         | 
         | Many watches use 29.5 days between phases for simplicity. This
         | results in the watch's moon phase display being off by one day
         | for every two years the watch operates.
         | 
         | There are a few watch manufacturers that use epicyclic gear
         | trains to make the moon phase calculation more precise. An
         | example: the Ochs und Junior moon phase watch will operate for
         | 3,478.27 years before its moon phase display is off by one day
         | (https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/moon-phase/).
        
       | zokier wrote:
       | Perpetual calendar complications are approaching the territory of
       | mechanical computers and thus hold interest to me. It is
       | interesting challenge to think of how to accomplish some other
       | alternative calendars mechanically.
        
       | user_7832 wrote:
       | As much as I will most likely never spend 6 figures on a watch, I
       | greatly appreciate their engineering. Tangential, does anyone
       | know how easy is it to design and build your own movement?
        
         | sndean wrote:
         | I don't know about the difficulty, but you can look at the
         | complexity of this ETA 6497 movement on GrabCAD [0]. After
         | seeing this a while ago, it made sense to me why small/new
         | brands generally use a Seiko NH35 or something similar that
         | they can buy in bulk.
         | 
         | [0] https://grabcad.com/library/eta-6497-1-complete-watch-
         | moveme...
        
           | user_7832 wrote:
           | Thanks a lot! Sounds like reverse engineering a complicated
           | (heh) watch movement could be a fun challenge to start with!
        
         | throw0101b wrote:
         | > _As much as I will most likely never spend 6 figures on a
         | watch, I greatly appreciate their engineering._
         | 
         | How about in the US$ 9000 range? Frederique Constant
         | Manufacture Slimline Perpetual Calendar:
         | 
         | * https://www.chrono24.com/frederiqueconstant/manufacture-
         | slim...
         | 
         | (Perhaps as a gift to yourself for a major milestone: 50th
         | birthday, retirement, _etc_.)
        
           | user_7832 wrote:
           | Thanks for the suggestion, certainly possible I think.
           | Honestly it depends a lot on how my career/income turns out,
           | but the watch looks good!
        
       | dot5xdev wrote:
       | Question for folks who live in non-English speaking countries: do
       | you guys wear watches with calendars in English?
       | 
       | Last time I was in a mall in Mexico City, I asked a guy behind
       | the counter of some store if they had any watches that had either
       | the months or days of week in Spanish... surprisingly, the answer
       | was no. English only.
        
         | throw-the-towel wrote:
         | Same thing in Russia, only the old Soviet-era watches have
         | calendars in Russian.
        
         | jhbadger wrote:
         | Weird. My Seiko 5 automatic (about $150, probably one of the
         | cheapest self-winding mechanical watches) has the days of the
         | week in English, Spanish, and French. Weirdly, (but I suppose
         | it makes sense if you think about how the gears work), if you
         | look at the watch at an odd time (like say 3am) it is showing
         | the day in one of the two non-selected languages.
        
         | tijtij wrote:
         | I have a cheap Casio watch that has both Spanish and English
         | days
        
         | ginko wrote:
         | You can get German versions for most Swiss and German watches I
         | believe.
         | 
         | For instance: https://thewatchguy.de/watch/18039-day-date-the-
         | german-tropi...
         | 
         | It's a matter of replacing a dial:
         | https://jmpwatches.com/products/rolex-datum-tages-scheiben-d...
        
         | czarit wrote:
         | I have a Champion watch that (inexplicably) has days marked in
         | English and Portuguese. It was purchased in Sweden.
        
         | quickthrowman wrote:
         | My Seiko SNK807, Seiko SKX009, and Tissot Visodate all have an
         | English/Spanish date wheel. I believe JDM Seiko watches have a
         | Japanese/English date wheel.
         | 
         | My other three watches (Hamilton, Tudor, Rolex) are simple
         | three-handers with no other complications.
        
       | jhoechtl wrote:
       | Hah, the author of the go-vim plugin!
        
       | thristian wrote:
       | Being used to the world of software, where only ignorant and
       | amateurish systems don't handle the 400-year rule in the
       | Gregorian calendar, it's eye-opening to find out that people are
       | paying thousands of dollars for a time-keeping device that needs
       | the date to be manually fixed five times a year.
        
         | piltdownman wrote:
         | First off, not all Calendar complications are made the same.
         | The standard Patek Phillipe Annual Calendar needs only one
         | correction per year - from February 28 or 29 to March 1. The
         | 'plain calendar' complication needs adjusting five times a year
         | for months of less than 31 days, but the far more popular
         | perpetual calendar requires no adjustment whatsoever.
         | 
         | Secondly, your argument is fairly analogous to having to tune a
         | Violin when perfectly good Violin virtual instruments and
         | samples exist, indistinguishable for the use-case in question.
         | By framing the question like that you're kind of missing the
         | point about Horology and owning mechanical trinkets for the
         | sake of marvelling at their construction and innovation.
        
           | kahnix wrote:
           | While the rest of what you said is true, perpetual calendars
           | require setting for the year 2100, still a while to go
           | though!
        
           | AlecSchueler wrote:
           | There's still a big difference in the sound of an actual
           | violin and a digital recreation. But both a mechanical and
           | digital watch will display the same information.
        
         | TacticalCoder wrote:
         | > ... it's eye-opening to find out that people are paying
         | thousands of dollars for a time-keeping device that needs the
         | date to be manually fixed five times a year.
         | 
         | People used to wear gold as jewelry _thousands of years ago_.
         | And some people still do just that. That behavior predates a
         | great many currencies. For example I 'm pretty confident people
         | shall still wear gold as jewelry long after the EUR currency
         | shall be dead.
         | 
         | Enter any jewelry store in the west now and they'll tell you:
         | men buy jewelry too now. But it didn't use to be that way:
         | typically a watch was the _only_ jewelry a man was allowed to
         | wear.
         | 
         | I've got a very nice japanese mechanical watch which shows day
         | of the week, day of the month and power reserve in addition of
         | the time. Got it for 300 EUR brand new at a "family sale".
         | 
         | When I'm wearing that watch there's some device responsible for
         | the zombification of the west I can do without: my smartphone.
         | Adjusting it manually once in a while doesn't seem that bad of
         | a deal.
        
           | julian_t wrote:
           | A watch and a signet ring. In the UK at least, rings were a
           | common piece of male jewelry.
        
         | omoikane wrote:
         | I suspect people who buy expensive watches aren't bothered by
         | having to adjust them a few times a year, assuming they didn't
         | buy those watches as investments.
         | 
         | I have a very cheap (~$10) mechanical pocket watch, and it's
         | not all that accurate in keeping time. But to me, winding the
         | watch and adjusting the time is part of the fun. Even more fun
         | is watching the gears and listening to the ticks, and pulling
         | out my pocket watch when my friends started looking at their
         | smartwatches.
        
         | dphuang2 wrote:
         | idk what to say, its cool to see a bunch of gears tracking time
         | and stare at it while it works ._.
        
       | robxorb wrote:
       | An excellent visual+interactive deep-dive into the internals of a
       | basic mechanical watch - inc. complication for a simple date:
       | 
       | https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/
        
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