[HN Gopher] Digital Wood Joints
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       Digital Wood Joints
        
       Author : montgomery_r
       Score  : 101 points
       Date   : 2024-04-25 13:46 UTC (9 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (openup.design)
 (TXT) w3m dump (openup.design)
        
       | uticus wrote:
       | the images are great, but need more info about strengths &
       | weaknesses of each type
        
       | geekodour wrote:
       | think the site suffered a hug, not opening for me ;(
        
         | WillAdams wrote:
         | I believe it's the same as:
         | 
         | http://winterdienst.info/50-digital-wood-joints-by-jochen-gr...
         | 
         | (which is the original site and which would be better to
         | use/link to)
        
       | 8ig8 wrote:
       | Charles Hayward [1] has a great book on the topic:
       | 
       | Woodwork Joints
       | https://archive.org/details/woodworkjointski0000hayw_k7x4
       | 
       | Hayward discusses not only the joints, but techniques for cutting
       | them with hand tools.
       | 
       | There are plenty of used copies out there. Hayward has many other
       | useful books.
       | 
       | 1: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_H._Hayward
        
       | lemma_peculiar wrote:
       | this is an excellent reference - not only for computer-controlled
       | wood processing, but also for digital fabrication. When trying to
       | create pieces made of plastics, you will sometimes need a strong
       | joint, and wood-working is the perfect place to look
        
       | jefb wrote:
       | Very cool graphic. However emphasizing the juxtaposition between
       | pictures of wood joints on the internet and actual real-life wood
       | joints with the phrase "digital" is a bit perplexing.
        
         | e28eta wrote:
         | I think "digital wood joints" emphasizes that they're meant to
         | be cut with a CNC, and thus aren't the traditional wood joints
         | that have been taught for centuries. I don't think it has
         | anything to do with the fact that this content is available
         | digitally.
        
           | michaelt wrote:
           | Honestly I thought they were trying to make a cute pun by
           | calling finger joints 'digital'
           | 
           | Your interpretation is more likely, though. And explains why
           | so many of the joints are weird and look like they'd leave
           | gaps...
        
       | affgrff2 wrote:
       | Offenbach also hosts a relatively large Japan festival (in
       | Germany). Wood joinery, at least in my mind, is a very Japanese
       | craft. I wonder if this is by accident.
        
         | mauvehaus wrote:
         | There are a couple of Japanese joinery books out there. One
         | that I've read gives the reasoning for all of the joints in the
         | Japanese tradition for joining two boards end to end (thereby
         | creating a longer board, in effect) is that the timber
         | available for building in Japan doesn't come in long, straight
         | lengths.
         | 
         | I can't tell you if that's true or not, but I have a hard time
         | seeing folks putting so much work into developing such joints
         | without a pressing need for them.
        
         | jcl wrote:
         | There's a wonderful little carpentry museum in Kobe, highly
         | recommended:
         | 
         | https://www.dougukan.jp/exhibition?lang=en
         | 
         | It focuses a lot on the evolution of precise woodworking tools,
         | like saws and planes. They also had examples of complex joints,
         | made without nails or glue.
        
           | montgomery_r wrote:
           | Lovely!
        
       | mauvehaus wrote:
       | These are all designed for CNC cutting, and appear to be intended
       | as one-sided jobs worked with the face of the board down. That is
       | generally the simplest way to hold a board on a CNC.
       | 
       | I would caution anyone thinking of doing joinery this way to
       | consider whether it's actually suitable for the application. I
       | was at a coffee shop once where absolutely every chair in the
       | place was starting to fall apart. The reason was that the joinery
       | was all some variation of half-lap, which doesn't constrain the
       | movement of the pieces in all of the directions that matter. Once
       | the glue failed, the chairs started coming apart.
       | 
       | I would also add that the corner joints meant to replace
       | dovetails or a box/beehive joint are unsightly with all the
       | required dogboning and will not improve aesthetically with the
       | addition of glue. I would further point out that there are
       | already quick ways to cut dovetails or box joints with a router
       | quickly and efficiently. It would be hard to convince me that
       | there's a truly useful role for cutting an uglier version of a
       | box joint on a CNC.
       | 
       | Source: am a furniture maker who does some CNC work.
        
         | e28eta wrote:
         | I wonder how much of the simplicity is due to the fact it was
         | created in 2004. I don't have a good feeling for how quickly
         | things progressed over the last 20 years
        
           | mauvehaus wrote:
           | I wasn't in the trade in 2004, so some of this is a bit
           | speculative:
           | 
           | It looks like everything on the poster is made to be cut on a
           | 3-axis machine. Stepping up to five-axis is a huge leap in
           | cost at present, and surely was then as well.
           | 
           | Tooling has likely improved in availability and cost since
           | 2004 as well. Automatic tool changers have probably also
           | become more affordable, but just like going to five-axis,
           | you're getting into a whole different class of machine once
           | you start talking about adding that.
           | 
           | Some of the reasons to cut stuff single-sided on the flat are
           | unchanged by any of that though. It still costs you precision
           | (and time) to flip a workpiece over, and you're going to have
           | issues if you don't have good consistency with your material
           | thickness if you need to reference your Z axis to the
           | material surface rather than the bed surface.
           | 
           | Working an end of a long piece remains a pain in the ass for
           | fixturing that involves a hole in your machine bed, and
           | possibly the floor as well. Tenoning a bed rail, for
           | instance, is inconvenient however you do it.
           | 
           | All of my CNC experience is on a three-axis machine, five-
           | axis gets you a lot of flexibility that most places won't
           | have unless CNC work is their primary focus, or at least core
           | to their workflow. I've seen a shop that builds high-end
           | windows with a large five axis machine. I have no concerns
           | about the durability of their products, it's just that most
           | people don't have access to that kind of capability.
        
             | montgomery_r wrote:
             | Thanks for the informed commentary. I'm surprised that the
             | tools haven't dropped in price faster, but perhaps there is
             | a de minimis based on amount of material / strength /
             | precision engineering required. I got to the site because I
             | have a plan to make a bed frame (poor first project choice
             | I know) and found this whilst looking for joints that might
             | work gluelessly.
        
               | wizardwes wrote:
               | In my experience, the cost has significantly dropped,
               | it's just that back then they were even more absurdly
               | ridiculous
        
             | jeffffff wrote:
             | i'm a hobbyist woodworker with more money than time. i have
             | a pretty basic 3-axis cnc and i thought it would save me
             | time, but it really doesn't. the only thing i actually use
             | it for is cutting out router templates, and even that would
             | be done better with a laser cutter (although a good laser
             | cutter costs a lot more than my cnc).
             | 
             | i could see how a machine big enough for 4x8 sheets with an
             | automatic tool changer, a vacuum table, and all the
             | automatic calibration gizmos might be a time saver for a
             | production shop, but if you're building something that's a
             | one-off or you don't have all the setup automation goodies
             | (which are $$$$$) then setup and programming usually end up
             | taking longer than doing the work the old fashioned way.
             | 
             | for tenon cutting like in the bed rail example you gave, i
             | have a hard time imagining any situation where cnc is going
             | to be more efficient than a domino xl.
        
               | bradly wrote:
               | 4x8 CNCs with a vacuum table really aren't faster. Even
               | the watercooled CNCs I've used are still too slow for
               | joinery. All the furniture shops I've worked in have been
               | dominated by the Domino for most joinery tasks.
        
               | Tossrock wrote:
               | I find CNC is a time-saver for one-offs when the work is
               | complex enough that it'd be difficult-to-impossible to do
               | by hand, eg complex curving cuts, engraving/pockets, etc.
               | 
               | I actually saw an unusually straightforward example of
               | this last year - a group of friends and I were making
               | instances of Tyler Gibson's 1-sheet portable bike rack
               | design (it's great, check it out:
               | https://www.thetylergibson.com/building-a-better-
               | portable-bi... )
               | 
               | One group of two-ish people used jigsaws to manually cut
               | the pieces, and I used a Shopbot 4'x8' CNC router. Very
               | roughly, it took about twice as many man-hours to make
               | one by hand, vs by CNC, and the result was less clean.
               | CNC could have done even better, but due to warping of
               | the sheet, it failed to cut all the way through in
               | places, and I had to do a cleanup pass with the jigsaw.
               | And once the upfront cost of generating the toolpaths etc
               | was paid, it would improve again.
        
         | klodolph wrote:
         | Yeah. I want to know how well these joints will last in
         | different scenarios and how the tradeoffs are.
         | 
         | I've seen YouTube videos where people test different wood
         | joints to see how much load they can withstand, but I assume
         | the results will be different if you account for things like
         | changes in humidity over time, which causes the wood to expand
         | and contract (which doesn't happen isotropically).
        
         | tptacek wrote:
         | Fun chair force article: https://www.woodreview.com.au/how-
         | to/the-logic-of-chair-desi...
        
           | jnsaff2 wrote:
           | Fun chair anatomy video by arguably one of the most talented
           | ones currently active.
           | 
           | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2g6kGl66XU
        
         | WhatsTheBigIdea wrote:
         | If the glue has failed, there are some serious craftsmanship
         | issues regardless of the joint type.
         | 
         | With the exception of the joints labeled "...with key" these
         | joints are all very remote from the types of joints used in
         | traditional Japaneses temples which do not use glue.
         | 
         | These are mostly western style joints, which are also very
         | beautiful and useful, but generally expected to be assembled
         | with glue.
         | 
         | Great resource!
        
           | logrot wrote:
           | > If the glue has failed, there are some serious
           | craftsmanship issues regardless of the joint type.
           | 
           | No. You can't simply use whatever joint you want and expect
           | the glue to deal with the (sometimes enormous) forces applied
           | to it.
        
             | btbuildem wrote:
             | It really does depend on the joint type. Do you expect a
             | lap joint to hold together without any additional fasteners
             | or glue?
        
             | rfrey wrote:
             | This goes against the conventional wisdom that a properly
             | glued wood junction is stronger than the wood itself, and
             | that under such forces it is the wood that will fail.
        
               | lmm wrote:
               | The wood would've failed at the same place if you'd
               | carved a whole chair in that shape out of a solid piece
               | of wood. The problem is that the design concentrates
               | forces at the joint (or the "junction") in a way that no
               | material can withstand.
        
         | LMMojo wrote:
         | Yes, the one thing I was missing from all of this is what is
         | the appropriate application for each joint
        
         | aidenn0 wrote:
         | As someone who is _not_ a furniture maker and doesn 't have
         | access to a CNC machine, I was surprised by how good of a joint
         | I can make with just a doweling jig. It does end up slightly
         | more visible (assuming you aren't painting it), but it creates
         | a very strong joint that is hard to mess up.
        
           | foobarian wrote:
           | As another layperson who always dreamed of making dovetail
           | joints for strength, I was quite surprised at various
           | explorations of joint strength on Youtube that tend to find
           | that mitered box joints with dowels or splines beat most
           | other joints by a wide margin. This is great because they are
           | even easier to make, and can be made to look quite nice if
           | you use a contrasting wood for the dowel/spline.
        
           | rfrey wrote:
           | How is it more visible?
           | 
           | Dowel joints are great, as far as I know Krenov never used
           | anything else on his cabinet carcasses. I'm not sure why they
           | developed a bad reputation.
        
             | aidenn0 wrote:
             | Easiest way is to drill through, then cut and sand the
             | dowel flush; leaves a round circle where the grain doesn't
             | match for each dowel.
        
         | abakker wrote:
         | Excellent points all around. As a fellow woodworker / CNC
         | person, I will say it often frustrates me how people with CNCs
         | demand that the WHOLE process be done on a CNC. 90 degree
         | corner chisels exist and make nice interior corners without
         | needing dogbones. Other shapes can be trimmed/finished by hand.
         | Once the CNC sets up nice reference surfaces and removes all
         | the waste it's actually pretty easy to clean up the insides of
         | dovetails to sharp corners.
        
       | e28eta wrote:
       | Based only on the pics in the "poster", it looks like a lot of
       | the joints in the second half have visible gaps. I think I would
       | have expected more emphasis on joints that can be cut with the
       | CNC's round cutter, but which also come together cleanly.
       | 
       | Also, an over abundance of lengthening / scarf type joints, more
       | than the typical woodworker would use, IMO.
        
       | chiffre01 wrote:
       | I'd like to think we're at a place where CNC machines are cheap
       | and accessible enough that clever tricks or new tools are just
       | around the corner to overcome some of the inherent issues of
       | making basic wood joints on a CNC router.
       | 
       | To me, these look like a stepping stone to something better.
       | They're all intended to be used with a flat-shaped endmill, and
       | all probably have strength and aesthetic issues. One solution is
       | using different router bit shapes in combination with traditional
       | techniques, but this is more labor-intensive.
        
         | jeffffff wrote:
         | we're not really close, for two reasons:
         | 
         | 1) programming takes a long time, and it only makes sense to
         | take the time to do it if you're making a bunch of copies of
         | something. this is something that could be improved with better
         | software and ux - if cad programs made it easy to just drag and
         | drop joints from a joint library into your model then this
         | would be a different story. a hardware+software solution could
         | also work here, something like a cnc version of
         | https://www.woodpeck.com/multi-router-group.html where the
         | software makes it easy to scale the templates to your work
         | piece.
         | 
         | 2) setup takes a long time on the affordable machines. every
         | time you change bits you have to recalibrate. positioning the
         | work piece on the table and clamping/taping it down takes a lot
         | of time. if you have to flip the work piece over then that
         | takes even longer and positioning is even more critical, and
         | programming is more complicated as well. regardless of whether
         | your designs require cutting on one or both sides, you have to
         | program tabs into your design so the router doesn't cut all the
         | way through (or else the piece will move and the router will
         | screw it up), and then you have to go back and cut the pieces
         | out the rest of the way manually and trim off the tabs with a
         | flush trim router bit. the high end production quality machines
         | mitigate a lot of these issues, but now you are talking about a
         | machine that costs at least $100,000 and takes up a whole room.
        
           | WillAdams wrote:
           | I've been working on the software end of things:
           | 
           | http://tug.org/TUGboat/tb40-2/tb125adams-3d.pdf
           | 
           | and
           | 
           | https://community.carbide3d.com/t/a-different-sort-of-
           | box/36...
           | 
           | and for more see:
           | 
           | https://willadams.gitbook.io/design-into-3d/programming
        
       | OJFord wrote:
       | Meh, Matthias Wandel's still going to beat you on speed (and
       | quite possibly strength) with his homemade pantorouter or box
       | joint jig.
       | 
       | As much as I like nice joint design, I think a lot of that
       | aesthetic beauty comes from when it's not machinable (or not
       | traditionally anyway, iirc the pantorouter can make some pretty
       | tight dovetails - because of the orientation vs. trying to route
       | them 'normally'). It's not how fancy and curvey can it look, it's
       | how intricate and fine the detail. Chunky dovetails don't look
       | better than box joints in my opinion.
        
         | WillAdams wrote:
         | I would argue that it shouldn't be necessary to see joinery at
         | all --- I find full-blind dovetails far more impressive and
         | aesthetically pleasing.
        
       | WillAdams wrote:
       | I've been working on this sort of thing for a while.
       | 
       | For a Japanese spin on this see Tsugite:
       | 
       | http://ma-la.com/Tsugite_UIST20.pdf
       | 
       | which I worked through at:
       | 
       | https://community.carbide3d.com/t/a-study-of-joinery/28492
       | 
       | Traditional joints (box, dovetails, or obscure variations such as
       | Knapp (cove and pin)) require a vertical fixture and 3 setups (at
       | a minimum) --- cut parts to length and machine internal features,
       | mount four board and cut joints in 2 corners, flip boards (with
       | correct orientation) and cut other two corners.
       | 
       | Rabbet joints are simpler --- so simple that they were covered in
       | a video as "The Simple Box":
       | 
       | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V93xDM3lXsM
       | 
       | (ob. discl., I work for Carbide 3D)
       | 
       | There have been a number of programs developed for joinery. A
       | current commercial option is:
       | 
       | http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
       | 
       | (but it requires a vertical fixture)
       | 
       | One commercial option became freely available:
       | 
       | https://fabrikisto.com/tailmaker-software/
       | 
       | and ingeniously has an option where a 30 degree V endmill is
       | used, but to cut boards held at a 15 degree angle, affording a 90
       | degree cut with a great deal of control and flexibility --- this
       | can multiply setups to 9.
       | 
       | A variation I've been experimenting with is full-blind box
       | joints:
       | 
       | https://community.carbide3d.com/t/full-blind-box-joints-in-c...
       | 
       | They're reasonably easily drawn up, though they do have some
       | rather specific tooling requirements (a narrow 90 degree V
       | endmill, a square tool of that or smaller diameter, and to make
       | things easier, a large V endmill)
       | 
       | One test project was so tight that after putting it together for
       | a dry-fit before gluing I was unable to get it apart:
       | 
       | https://cutrocket.com/p/63781eaf9822f/
       | 
       | I've been working on a programming system to make this sort of
       | thing a bit easier:
       | 
       | https://github.com/WillAdams/gcodepreview
       | 
       | and have some sketched out joints which I've not been able to
       | make using existing CAM tools which I hope I'll be able to do
       | using this system (if anyone could recommend books on conic
       | sections, I'd be grateful --- that's where I got bogged down last
       | time).
        
       | KaiserPro wrote:
       | I wish I could find the clip now, but with the advent of
       | practical router bits with pantographs, there was a fashion in
       | the late 1800s to replace dovetail joints with dowel and C type
       | joints. They were really hard to make fast by hand, but easy to
       | do with machines.
       | 
       | They could be made to higher tolerances, and had more surface
       | area, and I assume were more reliable to make/hold draws
       | together.
       | 
       | These are very similar to the idea here.
       | 
       | EDIT: thankyou to mikey_p and WillAdams who pointed out the joint
       | I was looking for was the Knapp Joint:
       | https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/09/26/history-cove-pin-...
        
         | WillAdams wrote:
         | Probably you were thinking of "Knapp joints" (cove and pin)
         | which had a currency of a decade or so (their presence is used
         | to date furniture), but which were replaced by machine cut
         | dovetails.
         | 
         | A CNC router affords a lot of new possibilities, e.g., this box
         | which has an integrated lid:
         | 
         | https://community.carbide3d.com/t/as-funny-as-a-3-dollar-box...
        
         | mikey_p wrote:
         | You're thinking of the Knapp joint which were sometimes called
         | dovetails. The pantograph router version is a modern recreation
         | of how the original was made.
         | 
         | This video has some explanation of the new method and why they
         | were originally popular in the first place (mostly limitations
         | of available machines):
         | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlJjsvph3r8&ab_channel=Matth...
        
           | KaiserPro wrote:
           | Excellent thank you for the video!
        
       | Animats wrote:
       | Nice. But the link is to a clickbait site with dark patterns for
       | the privacy policy. The real article is here.[1]
       | 
       | Somebody should run these through a finite-element package to
       | compute their strength. Some of those look fragile.
       | 
       | [1] http://winterdienst.info/50-digital-wood-joints-by-jochen-
       | gr...
        
         | btbuildem wrote:
         | Precisely! They look pretty but there's a reason (beyond tools
         | and skills) some of these have never been seen in practice.
         | Would be super interesting to see stress analysis on these.
        
       | Duanemclemore wrote:
       | This is phenomenal. I wish I had it to share with a student I
       | worked with last year. Even without this, he came to similar
       | realizations and explored similar territory with significant
       | results.[0] He began by comparing and contrasting traditional
       | Japanese joinery with CNC milled joints. He realized that the
       | critical difference was that Japanese carpentry joints are almost
       | always entirely squared off (due to the flat saw and chisels).
       | Yet the inside corners created with CNC were always rounded. So
       | he let this critical difference be the animating concept of the
       | project.
       | 
       | So if you enjoy this, you might enjoy Luke's work too!
       | 
       | [0]https://issuu.com/lukemurrayarc/docs/portfolio_2023 starting
       | at page 26-27.
        
         | stcredzero wrote:
         | Here is what immediately comes to my mind.                   -
         | Figure out a way to parameterize joints         - Create an
         | automated evaluator that uses finite element analysis         -
         | Evolve joints with a genetic algorithm
        
       | btbuildem wrote:
       | Interesting idea, using the strengths of the tooling to expand
       | how joinery can look. Some of these are photos; looks like they
       | made actual wood examples of some of these joints.
       | 
       | What is really missing for me here is complete pieces, utilizing
       | some or many of these new joints throughout. Are they practical?
       | Do they look good as part of a larger whole? Even 3D renders
       | would be a good start, if not an actual physical piece.
        
       | netsharc wrote:
       | Off-topic, but that's a giant fuck you of a cookie popup... it's
       | got 3 options of "high/medium/custom data privacy", a duration of
       | how long I would like to keep those settings (just like those
       | nagware popups of "Try OneDrive/Teams/[whatever fucking bullshit]
       | now!" with no option for "Get off my OS!", only "Remind me
       | later"), a customize toggler that makes it even larger to have
       | more settings. Someone programmed this to frustrate the user with
       | "
       | 
       | And the description for the 3 options is contradictory. Above
       | them it says, "Select a Data Access Level", but selecting "High",
       | the description is "Highest level of privacy"... So what does it
       | do, give the advertisers a high level of access, or give me a
       | high level of privacy?
        
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