[HN Gopher] Analyzing a Baking Recipe
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       Analyzing a Baking Recipe
        
       Author : Frotag
       Score  : 56 points
       Date   : 2024-04-17 08:42 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.cookingforengineers.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.cookingforengineers.com)
        
       | mock-possum wrote:
       | Do you ever just... turn off your adblocker, for a moment, to
       | appreciate how genuinely bad some sites are?
       | https://ibb.co/HThtg3g
        
         | kwhitefoot wrote:
         | Good grief! How do people live like that? I wonder if they make
         | any money from all those advertisements, surely no one would
         | visit twice.
        
         | ghnws wrote:
         | Reader mode saves the day
        
       | progbits wrote:
       | "for engineers", proceeds to measure baking ingredients by
       | volume...
        
         | fps-hero wrote:
         | Absolutely cringe worthy. The painful thing is it's just a
         | simple conversation factor but I couldn't take the article
         | seriously after that.
         | 
         | Speaking of reinventing, the article rediscovered the concept
         | of bakers percentage, which is how bakers always describe
         | recipes! Except baker's percentage is unit agnostic and not
         | susceptible to variations in volumetric measurement, ingredient
         | density, and non-universal cup sizes.
        
           | progbits wrote:
           | But it isn't just a conversion factor exactly for the reasons
           | you state: a cup of flour will be different weight based on
           | brand, how much it settled in the bag etc. Always have to
           | deal with weights.
        
             | blowski wrote:
             | Do those factors also affect how much volume you need?
        
               | currency wrote:
               | Baking is literally chemistry. You don't get consistent
               | results if you measure a powder of quite variable density
               | by volume instead of mass.
        
               | explaininjs wrote:
               | You also don't get consistent results if you assume the
               | type of flour, atmospheric humidity, baking conditions,
               | etc etc. etc. will be the exact same as the recipe
               | author's and simply blindly follow the exact measurements
               | because "precision!".
               | 
               | The best approach is to watch a video that clearly
               | demonstrates how the product should look and feel at
               | every point along the process, and do what you can to
               | imitate that - even if it means leaving your scales and
               | cups in the cupboard.
        
               | eichin wrote:
               | Right, but you can successfully course correct if you
               | have a reproducible measurement, instead of one that
               | varies by 20% each time you make it (source: Cooks
               | Illustrated magazine on angel food cake, did experiments
               | on how much variation cup measurements of the same flour
               | had - given their audience, probably preaching to the
               | choir, but it was at least a decade ago...)
        
               | chihuahua wrote:
               | You want the correct amount by weight. Since volume (for
               | the same weight) varies depending on several factors, it
               | follows that those factors affect how much volume you
               | need.
               | 
               | The technique used for measuring "1 cup" affects how much
               | weight you get in 1 cup. This is in addition to the type
               | of flour, clumping, how densely it was packed in the bag,
               | etc.
        
           | icegreentea2 wrote:
           | Heh, engineering is being about as precise and accurate as
           | needed. Knowing that your taking a shortcut and shrugging and
           | saying "this is easier and still works" is the peak of
           | engineering.
        
         | BlackFly wrote:
         | As opposed to cooks, who love measurements like
         | 
         | - a carrot - four cloves of garlic - an onion - yolk of one
         | medium egg - salt to taste
         | 
         | because cooking isn't a science and precise measurements are
         | generally worse than useless. If you spend more of your time
         | trying to perfect the measurement instead of paying attention
         | to the texture and flavor then you are cooking very well.
         | People insist baking is different, but it really isn't; the
         | margins for measurements are wide enough that with a bit of
         | experience eying scoops of everything is an acceptable
         | strategy. You build more experience by making a few mistakes or
         | having someone shows you the behaviors outside the margins, but
         | for a first time recipe, sure stick to the instructions.
        
           | geuis wrote:
           | It absolutely _is_ different. It may not seem so to a non
           | baker, but regular cooking has a lot more leeway. Baking
           | consistently requires a much finer degree of control over the
           | variables. The difference between  "a pinch of baking powder"
           | vs "5 grams of baking powder" is entirely different. In the
           | first case, you're left wondering why pancakes came out good
           | last time and why are they inedible this time.
           | 
           | I'm no great cook or baker, but I've learned through trial
           | and lots of error how to bake bread and a few other things.
           | Get a scale and always convert to grams.
        
             | z2h-a6n wrote:
             | I disagree, as long as we're talking in ratios instead of
             | absolute amounts. The difference between "a pinch of baking
             | powder" vs "5 grams of baking powder" is about a factor of
             | 20. I think the main differences between baking and other
             | cooking are that: 1) There are often very large ratios of
             | certain ingredients in baking which -- except for spices --
             | is not generally the case in other cooking; 2) You can
             | often taste the food in an intermediate stage when cooking,
             | and adjust the ratios -- e.g. for spices -- which is not
             | generally as useful when baking.
             | 
             | Of course using a scale is a good way to keep the ratios
             | from getting too out of wack, and I usually do it too when
             | baking and almost never when cooking.
        
               | ghaff wrote:
               | I bought a scale a number of years back and, yes, I
               | pretty much universally use it for baking--it's just
               | easier as well as being more repeatable/accurate--and
               | rarely for other types of cooking.
        
               | janetmissed wrote:
               | scales are wonderful for measuring oil/liquid though.
               | Putting a bowl on a scale and pouring 54 grams of olive
               | oil is so much easier and accurate then measuring out 3
               | table spoons of oil
        
               | ghaff wrote:
               | I find those sorts of measurements are less likely to be
               | given in recipes though. I do agree that weight is
               | generally better than volume when it's given in a recipe.
        
             | tomgp wrote:
             | The best cake baker I know weighs her eggs and scales all
             | other ingredients accordingly.
        
               | erie wrote:
               | It is a matter of scale, it is essential to measure
               | accurately for commercial products that do not tolerate
               | loss of bread/pizza etc. For home baking you have many
               | challenges, from the oven temperature (less than ideal
               | and the dutch oven is meant to simulate commercial oven
               | conditions and temperatures at home) to protein content
               | of flour. I do not measure anything for baking bread or
               | pizza because I use it as therapy not as a chore.I bake
               | pizza with love, by taking my time and adding the best
               | ingredients I can get, from wheat germ to best quality
               | flour and fresh Mozzarella. The family has voted, my
               | pizza is better than any delivery they have ordered.
        
               | geuis wrote:
               | Ooh I've thought about doing that. Totally makes sense
               | since egg sizes range a bit.
        
             | sumtechguy wrote:
             | This is the different kinds of cooking. I have recipes I
             | have to follow _very_ precisely. If I dont it basically
             | breaks the thing being made. Other things I can vary it
             | wildly on how I feel and the dish will come out pretty
             | good. Confectionaries (such as cookies, pancakes, breads,
             | etc) I have to stick very close or it will be a bad time.
             | But something like a beef stew where I am basically
             | blending it together I can vary a lot of items and still
             | come out good. Now if I want exactly the same thing I had
             | the previous time then I have to follow it closely. Some
             | ingredients lend themselves to being measured precisely.
             | Others like say a pound of hamburger can vary in what was
             | in the original meat. Like a lean cut will want more oil
             | /butter. Whereas a fatty cut probably will want less
             | oil/butter.
        
               | geuis wrote:
               | Precisely. Exactly the same experience over here. I make
               | a chili by experience and it never goes wrong, except for
               | that one time a decade back.
               | 
               | I accidentally dunked my scale in the sink the other day.
               | Luckily it's working now but it wouldn't turn on for a
               | few days. So I was doing pancakes and couldn't precisely
               | measure stuff and they came out terrible, like before I
               | dialed in the precise ratios I use by weight. Scale is
               | working again, so today they came out perfect.
        
           | aredox wrote:
           | Patisserie requires exact proportions.
           | 
           | The example you gave isn't related to patisserie.
           | 
           | My best crepe recipe I have gives eggs in grams - not in
           | numbers of whole eggs. The remainder turns into a small
           | portion of scrambled eggs or omelette.
           | 
           | https://www.lemonde.fr/les-recettes-du-
           | monde/article/2018/07...
           | 
           | See also the "Bayesian cookies": https://static.googleusercon
           | tent.com/media/research.google.c...
        
           | HumblyTossed wrote:
           | > As opposed to cooks, who love measurements like
           | 
           | > - a carrot - four cloves of garlic - an onion - yolk of one
           | medium egg - salt to taste
           | 
           | Cooking is very much more forgiving than baking.
        
           | haswell wrote:
           | > _because cooking isn 't a science and precise measurements
           | are generally worse than useless_
           | 
           | Cooking and baking are both sciences, and have very different
           | tolerances and methods for working with those tolerances.
           | 
           | As others have pointed out, baking tends to require far more
           | precision, and the methods used are focused on precision as a
           | result.
           | 
           | To your point, spending all of your time focused on precise
           | measurements while cooking - especially with fresh
           | ingredients - isn't going to be as helpful as developing the
           | underlying skills and intuitions to know how to adapt what
           | you're cooking to the ingredients you have on hand.
           | 
           | Those skills and intuitions are focused on getting a
           | particular dish into a state that is hard to precisely
           | measure because of the high degree of variation in
           | ingredients (egg size, garlic freshness, how spicy are those
           | peppers?). If we _could_ precisely measure more aspects of
           | the ingredients, cooking could become far more "scientific",
           | and indeed this is what happens in the mass production of
           | foods in factories.
           | 
           | The point here is that the degree of "science" involved has
           | more to do with the practical considerations and limits of
           | our measuring apparatus across a diverse array of
           | ingredients.
           | 
           | Baking tends to involve ingredients that _can_ be precisely
           | measured, and an end result that can't be tested until the
           | bake is done. Any baker who focuses on consistent and
           | repeatable results knows that precision is part of the path
           | to getting there.
           | 
           | There is still value in knowing how to adapt to your
           | circumstances while baking. Precise measurements just reduce
           | the variables that you may need to adapt on the fly.
        
             | vlan0 wrote:
             | For sure! If anyone is looking to expand on this, the book
             | Ratio by Michael Ruhlman is a must.
        
               | giraffe_lady wrote:
               | It's an interesting book and definitely trains you to
               | keep an eye on the relationships between different
               | ingredients. And especially the continua between
               | different foods made of the same things in different
               | ratios.
               | 
               | Unfortunately a lot of the recipes in that book are not
               | very good! When settling the ratios he prioritized small,
               | clean numbers to make the relationships clear. But those
               | aren't guaranteed to be an optimal recipe. It's simply
               | more likely that the best custard for example is 28:15 or
               | 11:5 or whatever than it is precisely 2:1. Ditto every
               | single thing in the book.
               | 
               | It is a good starting point for learning how baked goods
               | work, developing intuition for how changing ingredients
               | influence the final product. Virtually none of them are
               | excellent ratios though.
        
         | derbOac wrote:
         | I think measuring by mass is almost certainly more precise in
         | theory, but in practice sometimes measuring by volume is easier
         | to do, and therefore can be more accurate in practice
         | sometimes. Most of the arguments about actual composition of
         | ingredients (hydration of flour for example) and so forth can
         | be extended to volume as well. Baking is also precise but it's
         | not complex chemical synthesis.
         | 
         | So I could flow with his attitude.
         | 
         | What I've decided for myself is that the mass versus volume
         | measurement really matters when the ingredient "measurable
         | unit" size is very large compared to the amount needed for the
         | recipe. So for something like granulated cane sugar in a muffin
         | recipe, using mass versus volume probably won't matter very
         | much, because the individual sugar crystals you are "counting"
         | are very tiny compared to the amount you'd use in a recipe.
         | There's probably going to be a bigger difference due to your
         | impatience or the scale accuracy or whatnot than using volume
         | versus mass. However, for something like whole walnuts, mass is
         | going to be a lot more precise because there's potentially a
         | lot of change between adding another 1 or 2 walnuts given the
         | 1/3 cup you might need, they can shift around, etc.
         | 
         | At least that's where I've come down on it for myself.
        
       | someone7x wrote:
       | This strikes me as a pointless refactoring of baking because it
       | mostly serves to make the engineer feel smart.
       | 
       | When engineering is applied to cooking, it usually looks a lot
       | more like Kenji Alt-Lopez and his peers when they refactor a
       | recipe to produce a classic dish without any superstitious steps.
        
         | mikepurvis wrote:
         | I agree. Baking is for me increasingly like the rest of
         | cooking-- based on feel and adaptation, particularly where
         | variable ingredients like eggs and fruit are involved that can
         | vary in size/composition and necessitate corresponding
         | adjustments to the amounts of flour and sugar.
         | 
         | All that to say, the moisture/volume analysis is interesting
         | from a theory point of view and would perhaps help achieve a
         | deeper understanding of the fundamentals, but at least for me
         | baking is largely driven by instinct and that seems to have
         | served me well.
        
           | dhosek wrote:
           | The thing about baking though is that much greater precision
           | is needed. I can usually just eyeball stuff for stovetop
           | cooking, but doing the same with baking can give wildly bad
           | results.
        
             | dmoy wrote:
             | I agree, baking is way more difficult.
             | 
             | It's like a longer feedback loop. A lot of cooking is like
             | a really tight repl - maybe even with unit tests (tasting
             | midway through). You can see results and modify on the fly.
             | Baking is like hardware - you might not know where the bugs
             | are until the thing comes back from the pcb print (comes
             | out of the oven).
        
               | mikepurvis wrote:
               | People say this, but there's a lot of feedback you can
               | still get along the way when baking-- this batter is too
               | runny or lumpy or stiff or tastes not sweet enough, or
               | whatever else.
        
         | Ringz wrote:
         | I'm always amazed at how fiercely some defend measuring by
         | volume instead of by mass. I've had tougher discussions on
         | Reddit about "cups" than about nuclear energy.
         | 
         | Sometimes I think people just lack experience with a good
         | scale. Once you understand what the tare button is for, there
         | really aren't any problems. Also, with a good scale, after you
         | press tare, it can count into the negative. So, if I need 10
         | grams of something and don't want to dirty another small bowl,
         | I can place the jar with the item on the scale, press tare, and
         | remove stuff until it reads -10 grams.
        
           | Terr_ wrote:
           | It's especially frustrating when the packing density of
           | whatever you're measuring is vague, like "2 cups of chopped
           | leaves."
        
             | Ringz wrote:
             | It is also frustrating that there are differences between
             | US American, Canadian, British and Australian cups. And the
             | pure irony that ,,Because actual drinking cups may differ
             | greatly from the size of this unit, standard measuring cups
             | may be used, with a metric cup being 250 millilitres."
        
           | dunham wrote:
           | Yeah, my mom watched me cook the other day and decided she
           | needed to use her scale more. So much easier. Dump stuff in
           | bowl, tare, dump next thing in bowl.
           | 
           | And if I ever need to measure honey (usually you can eyeball
           | it), it's gotta be by weight. A tablespoon of honey is 21g,
           | but you're not going to it back out of the tablespoon.
        
         | littlelady wrote:
         | This blog was created in 2004 which coincides with the peak of
         | Alton Brown's show "Good Eats" and the introduction of more
         | "scientific cooking". Perhaps the name was inspired by that?
         | Though the "about" section on the webpage claims the name was
         | chosen without too much consideration.
         | 
         | > _About the name: Cooking For Engineers Michael selected the
         | name "Cooking For Engineers" on a whim. He has no idea if it
         | means "To cook for the purposes of providing engineers with
         | food" or "To instruct engineers in the science and art of
         | cooking". He likes the ambiguity, and other people seem to find
         | the name intriguing and even interesting. He regrets that the
         | name can be misread (when in a rush) to be "Cooking
         | Foreigners"._
         | 
         | This is just some food for thought, but I think taking a
         | scientific approach to home cooking can make it more accessible
         | to men. By that I mean: making home cooking seem less like
         | caregiving and more like "rational science" legitimizes it as a
         | masculine activity. Thus allowing men to enjoy it, judgment-
         | free.
        
       | masfuerte wrote:
       | [This is wrong; see below]
       | 
       | > Some grids are empty because it would not make sense for them
       | to exist. For example, a very moist bread (0.60) with a low
       | butter content would be airy and tasteless.
       | 
       | Eh? A simple baguette recipe - water, flour, starter and salt -
       | has no fat and more moisture than this. And is very tasty.
       | Wholemeal sourdough recipes are wetter still.
        
         | jefftk wrote:
         | I don't think a baguette recipe is 0.6 by their definition?
         | Their "0.60" would mean 3C of water to 5C flour. I'd expect a
         | baguette to be around 0.50 (1C of water to 2C of flour).
         | 
         | (They're not using baker's percentages)
        
           | masfuerte wrote:
           | I think we're both wrong! I was forgetting they were
           | measuring in volume not mass. A cup of flour weighs about
           | half of what a cup of water weighs. So 1C water to 2C flour
           | is roughly equal masses, or a baker's percentage of 100%.
           | That's too wet for a loaf. 0.6 on their scale is more water
           | than flour, so it would probably resemble a batter. They are
           | right that it wouldn't make a good loaf.
        
             | jefftk wrote:
             | Thanks! I don't cook baguettes; my ratio came from the
             | first recipe I found looking online:
             | https://lechefswife.com/baking-baguettes-for-beginners/
        
               | masfuerte wrote:
               | That's interesting. I do bake but I'm no expert. My
               | wettest doughs are 75%. That recipe is a bit more than
               | 100%. I didn't think such a wet dough would hold its
               | shape. I'm wrong again!
        
               | dunham wrote:
               | It looks like Reinhart has it at 65% for both the pate
               | fermentee and the bread itself in "Bread Baker's
               | Apprentice" and the simple recipe in "Every Day" is about
               | 67%. I consider him an expert, but some of his stuff is
               | fussier than I want to deal with at the moment.
        
       | tantalor wrote:
       | Glad to see this classic website again, and that it's still
       | online! I learned a lot from this approach to cooking and baking.
        
       | 0xbadcafebee wrote:
       | Seems to completely disregard basic physics and chemistry which
       | determine whether baked goods work. The conclusions at the bottom
       | underscore this, in things like casually mentioning acidity, or
       | the idea that you can't knead a high-hydration dough, or
       | mentioning a "leavening ratio" of dry good without considering
       | the other ingredients that will be modifying pH, mechanical
       | action (mixing/kneading changing the result), cook time.... I'm a
       | little shocked that people in the comments are calling this
       | science.
        
         | uoaei wrote:
         | This is what happens when people think they're smart just
         | because they were good at school.
        
       | wackget wrote:
       | This is absolute nonsense.
        
       | juliefrench wrote:
       | Baking is not science, it is art. Don't over engineer it.
        
         | globular-toast wrote:
         | Disagree. Baking is science. Cooking is art.
        
           | whutsurnaym wrote:
           | Why are we treating science and art as a dichotomy here?
           | Baking and cooking can be both scientific and artistic.
        
       | AlbertCory wrote:
       | The master of scientific cooking is Harold McGee ( _On Food and
       | Cooking_ )
       | 
       | https://www.amazon.com/Food-Cooking-Science-Lore-Kitchen/dp/...
       | 
       | and always has been. Nearly every serious chef has this on their
       | shelf.
       | 
       | To boot, he's a super-nice guy and I talked to him a couple times
       | when he came to Google.
       | 
       | Secondly, there's a fundamental difference in goals between home
       | cooking and professional cooking. If you're doing it over and
       | over in a restaurant, you really want it to be the same every
       | time. If you're doing it for yourself, you need to accept and
       | revel in the differences. If it really sucks, you just throw it
       | out and order a pizza. Maybe next time you can do it better.
       | 
       | I tried to get at that in my fave recipe: no measurements.
       | 
       | https://albertcory50.substack.com/p/chicken-fried-rice
        
       | Optimal_Persona wrote:
       | As a former professional baker for 2 decades, from corner
       | bakeshops to a hippie co-op to a large scale dessert manufacturer
       | with worldwide distribution - as soon as I saw the recommendation
       | to use volume instead of mass I closed the tab, nothing of value
       | could be there.
       | 
       | Baking is both an art and a science. If you're a home baker you
       | can ignore the science, if you are trying to make money you have
       | to understand at least the basics of the science/physical
       | behavior of your materials.
       | 
       | I take a more intuitive/heuristic approach to cooking, and the
       | single best resource I've found for cooking confidently &
       | authentically by the seat of one's pants is Samin Nosrat's "Salt
       | Fat Acid Heat". I've yet to find a similar guide for baking, and
       | don't think one could exist given the narrow range of actually
       | useful parameters.
       | 
       | https://www.saltfatacidheat.com/
       | 
       | Reading down in the comments - ratios can be useful conceptually,
       | but for production baking the actual size of the batch vs. the
       | mixer, oven and other tools make all the difference. Gravity
       | plays a part in, say, how a moist dough behaves in a 5 lb. vs. a
       | 250 lb. batch, same for how things bake/burn in a full vs.
       | partially full oven, same for depositors, extruders, sheeters,
       | etc.
        
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       (page generated 2024-04-18 23:02 UTC)