[HN Gopher] The Fashion Police in 16th-century Italy (2014)
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       The Fashion Police in 16th-century Italy (2014)
        
       Author : ohjeez
       Score  : 42 points
       Date   : 2024-03-10 19:14 UTC (3 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.medievalists.net)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.medievalists.net)
        
       | ChrisArchitect wrote:
       | (2014)
       | 
       | Syndicated from https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/features/fancy-
       | pants-skirmish...
        
         | perihelions wrote:
         | They're not the same link--the articles' text are the same, but
         | they come with different sets of images.
         | 
         | The cam.ac.uk seems to be the "correct" version, since it
         | contains the drawing described in the corresponding text as:
         | _"...such as the lady in a litter seen in this image taken from
         | a travelogue (owned by Strahov Monastery) of... "_. The
         | medievalists.net version erroneously omits this drawing. The
         | medievalists.net version is... whatever the digital equivalent
         | of a "misprint" is.
        
       | sorokod wrote:
       | I thought that it was well understood that the purpose of
       | sumptuary laws was to prop up social hierarchies.
       | 
       | With this in mind the "startling discovery" is not startling at
       | all.
        
       | perihelions wrote:
       | - _" "It's interesting that the majority of the offences relate
       | to an outfit of black silk - taffeta, satin or velvet -
       | ornamented with some sort of precious metal stitching or with
       | lace. Just such an outfit appears in a portrait of an anonymous
       | Genoese nobleman by the artist van Dyck which, to modern eyes,
       | looks relatively sober. But black was a clear status symbol in
       | Renaissance culture. Black dye was one of the most difficult to
       | fix effectively, so we should be careful how we interpret these
       | apparently 'plain' portraits," said Galastro."_
       | 
       | Here's a related explanation from /r/AskHistorians,
       | 
       | - _" Black fabric was indeed more costly in the Middle Ages than
       | many other colors, but it's not a straightforward question of dye
       | expense. In terms of dyestuff, cost depended on two things:
       | source of pigment and duration of dyeing process. The most
       | popular option for dying fabric black in the Middle Ages was not,
       | of course, "black pigment." It was to use woad, the bog-common
       | blue pigment, to dye fabric to the darkest possible midnight
       | tint. Then a second dye, typically a red (madder) or yellow
       | (weld), would be added over the top to eliminate the blue
       | tinge."_
       | 
       | - _" Woad, weld, and madder were standard dyes, not prohbitively
       | expensive for a decently-endowed monastic order. Benedictine
       | monks could adhere to their Rule not to spend too much money on
       | individual habits..."_
       | 
       | https://old.reddit.com/r/AskHistorians/comments/4b7lke/black...
        
         | Simon_ORourke wrote:
         | That's going to annoy any old school Goths out there!
        
       | senorrib wrote:
       | I hate it when someone takes scientific research and willingly
       | distort its meaning for whatever reason.
       | 
       | The job of these magistrates were not to police "fashion", or
       | what people wore, but to police ostentation -- two very different
       | things.
       | 
       | To reduce this to fashion significantly changes the
       | interpretation of social rules of the period.
        
         | pvg wrote:
         | This is a bit like complaining the people who fit the modern
         | meaning of "Fashion Police" are not, in fact, officers of the
         | law.
        
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