[HN Gopher] 3D Printer Auto Bed Leveling Mesh Visualizer
___________________________________________________________________
3D Printer Auto Bed Leveling Mesh Visualizer
Author : macinjosh
Score : 84 points
Date : 2023-12-19 03:27 UTC (19 hours ago)
(HTM) web link (i.chillrain.com)
(TXT) w3m dump (i.chillrain.com)
| nycdatasci wrote:
| Context?
| mardifoufs wrote:
| A 3d printer bed is never actually flat, especially since 3d
| printers are cheaper and the tolerances are usually pretty
| loose compared to a super flat, precisely ground CNC bed for
| example.
|
| One of the biggest issue/pain point in 3d printing for a while
| was to adjust the bed to make jt flat, or at least as flat as
| possible so that you can actually print without massive issues
| on the first layer. The process used to be manual, tedious and
| hit or miss (due to drift in the screws, or thermal expansion)
| etc.
|
| Nowadays most new printers come with a sensor that probes the
| bed at multiple points (say in a grid of 4x4), then using for
| example a lagrange interpolation you can get a mesh that
| represents how flat your bed is. Then, using the visualisation
| you can either manually adjust the bed (with screws that rise
| or lower a certain corner), or even just let your printer
| compensate for the deviations.
|
| That is, the printer moves the Z axis even when it is still
| printing on the same layer to make the print surface
| "virtually" flat (not always ideal if the Z axis stepper is
| trash, or if the deviation is too wide, or if there's too much
| vibration). That means that usually, the issue of bed levelling
| is mostly solved for newer printers!
|
| Some printers also just use the nozzle itself as a probe,
| combined with a load cell. But those are usually on the higher
| end. The most common way is just a small probe of known size
| that sticks out and then calculates how much it extended before
| reaching the bed. (Some even use a pretty high res lidar to
| make sure the first layer is fine, even in some sub 900$
| printers).
| NegativeLatency wrote:
| Or an inductive sensor: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/p-i-
| n-d-a-superpinda-sensor...
| mardifoufs wrote:
| Yep, having that by default since I think 2018, is one of
| the reasons prusas have a reputation of being super easy to
| use. It's way better than even a bltouch. Nowadays it's a
| lot more common thankfully though I don't think other big
| players use inductive sensors.
|
| Even prusa is now using a load cell that apparently will be
| used for much more than just bed levelling (the load cell
| could be able to tell if filament is stuck, because the
| motor will push without extrusion leading to a variation in
| load for example). Very exciting times in 3d printing
| honestly (and I say that as someone that is pretty
| "bearish" on 3d printing usually)
| lawn wrote:
| It's often not the bed that isn't flat, but that the rest of
| the printer itself moves and expands.
| mardifoufs wrote:
| Yeah or the bed itself is fine, but it's on a bad bed
| support. That's why even a perfectly flat glass bed plate
| can be completely uneven since the structure itself is
| crooked! Considering that quite a few printers are self
| assembled too (with basically no torque specs, and users
| that have little means to build it accurately), it's just
| compounded even more.
| zokier wrote:
| 3D printer made of Invar/Kovar next? :)
| dotnet00 wrote:
| There are also issues like even if extremely flat, the way
| most printers mount the bed, it's going to bend measurably
| simply from expanding upon heating up and the distance
| between the mounting points not expanding the same amount.
| londons_explore wrote:
| As long as you always print with a hot bed, that effect
| doesn't matter - just calibrate it when hot.
| Mashimo wrote:
| You mean "As long as you always print with the same bed
| temperature"?
|
| Because there is a difference how your bed looks from 60
| C for PLA to 110C for ABS.
| londons_explore wrote:
| Just do the first layer at 110 for all materials. PLA
| actually adheres far better at 110C, but obviously you
| need to cool it down before building too many extra
| layers on top.
|
| Slicers have a setting for "Bed temperature initial
| layer" for exactly this reason.
| Mashimo wrote:
| I find it easier and faster to just print PLA at 50 - 60
| C bed and use probes for mesh and z level.
|
| I never heard of anyone printing PLA with 110C first
| layer.
| Baeocystin wrote:
| I usually start my PLA prints at ~80C for the first
| layer, dropping to 65C for the rest. I first tried it
| because I was playing with PEO plates that had an
| iridescent pattern I wanted to strongly embed in the
| layer, but it turns out to be a good general pattern
| overall. Really reduced the amount of support material I
| need on certain prints, which is a big plus.
| bborud wrote:
| I've never tried that. I've usually tried to not have the
| build plate temperature vary too much for fear that the
| plate might contract a bit if I cool it down and the
| print might pop off?
| londons_explore wrote:
| Temperature changes above the plastic transition
| temperature won't cause it to pop off. Only when you drop
| a reasonable amount below the plastic transition
| temperature will it pop off.
| NegativeLatency wrote:
| Kinda neat to see a scaled up visualization of the vertical
| height differences of your printer bed.
|
| https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html
| shadycuz wrote:
| Some 3d printers have automatic bed leveling. Which is a
| process where the printer will touch the print bed in many
| places with a probe. This allows the printer to detect peaks
| and valleys, which it can then compensate for. The website
| above allows you to visualize that data.
| flatline-84 wrote:
| 3D printers can do a variety of "bed mesh" leveling, which is
| where they probe the bed in a grid pattern and then can
| compensate for any deformities in the bed via software.
|
| This ensures that the first layer (arguably the most important)
| for any print is perfectly flat and level. This visualizer
| takes the output of the bed mesh calibration sequence (where
| each point is a z-offset, usually from what the printer has
| defined as 0 based on the end stop) and graphs it so you can
| see your bed deformation.
|
| Most Klipper frontend UIs already have support for this though
| Doxin wrote:
| For a 3d printer the distance between the print bed and the
| nozzle when printing the first layer is _very_ important. If
| the distance is too big the print doesn 't stick to the bed and
| you end up with spaghetti. If the distance is too small either
| not enough plastic comes out so your print doesn't stick; no
| plastic at all comes out so your print doesn't stick; or the
| nozzle digs into the printbed, damaging it.
|
| Since the thickness of layers in a 3d print is around 0.1-0.3mm
| the margin for error is rather tight. Since no one is going to
| invest in precision ground printbeds you need to get that
| precision by some other method. One of those methods is to
| probe the bed height at various points before printing, and
| driving the Z-axis to correct for that during the print.
|
| The linked tool can be used to visualize how nonflat your
| printbed is given a set of such probes. The default example
| seems to have a +-0.25mm error, which isn't amazing but should
| be usable with mesh leveling and not at all without.
| feiss wrote:
| This is neat, today I learnt. Can an Ender 3 do mesh
| leveling?
| kayson wrote:
| Octoprint has a plugin (Bed Mesh Visualizer) that does this.
| smcleod wrote:
| Klipper's frontend (Mainsail) has this built in.
| https://docs.mainsail.xyz/
| flatline-84 wrote:
| There's also Fluidd
|
| https://docs.fluidd.xyz/
| cassac wrote:
| Prusa Link/Connect also has this.
| antirez wrote:
| Are you sure PrusaLink has it? I've an MK4 with latest firmware
| and I can only see the usual temperature graph and file
| browser, and that's it. Not that the bed visualizer would be so
| useful with the MK4: this printer (like the XL) really does not
| have leveling issues.
| yokoprime wrote:
| I think you're confusing the control screen with leveling mesh
| visualizer. Prusa Connect does not have this, Prusa Link is
| even more bare bones.
| numpad0 wrote:
| IME, ABL is not that important. Personally I spray bed with a
| hairspray and tweak leveling screws while first layer is going
| on[1], that's just fine.
|
| Old Marlin ABL also has bug/tendency to report erroneous tilt
| towards the last corner it measures, I suspect due to Z axis
| missing step from microstepping. Ultimately it was too finicky
| for me without resorting to closed-loop drivers, which also
| almost completely solved the leveling problem.
|
| 1: I know it is a big flat NO to touch a robotic equipment in
| operation, unless said robot is specifically designed to be
| almost completely incapable of applying any force to any parts of
| a human body, but I'm smart and I consider my printer a co-bot so
| it's okay(it's not okay. A better solution is needed).
| dotnet00 wrote:
| ABL is not that important if you don't mind babysitting the
| printer. But it's an amazing quality of life improvement
| otherwise. Especially if you're printing stuff that needs
| precision.
|
| Manually leveling an ender 3 was tolerable to me for about a
| month while learning 3d printing and figuring out if it was
| something I would be into long term, but over the course of a
| year I went from that, to trying various ABL sensors and bed
| replacements, to now a custom built Mercury One.1 with 3 point
| kinematic auto bed leveling, and it's such a night and day
| difference in terms of usability.
|
| It physically levels the bed and automatically determines the z
| offset, so I don't have to do anything when using different
| print surfaces and when operating at different temperatures/in
| an enclosure. Heat expansion is pretty noticeable (I've
| destroyed pei plates with the nozzle by calculating z offset
| when cold but attempting to print when hot), and while sticking
| your hand under the bed of a printer printing PLA is not that
| dangerous, with ABS the bed is at 110C, not at all worth the
| risk, so autoleveling is very helpful.
|
| It makes it so much easier to just submit a print job, forget
| about it and find it finished perfectly, without involving any
| finicky adhesives.
| lvturner wrote:
| I'm with you, adding an auto bed leveler was the single
| biggest upgrade on my 3D printer, for the type and printing I
| do and the frequency I use, it's really just made it fire and
| forget (I'm sure I could improve it /even/ further) where as
| previously I felt I had to re-level after every print.
| Baeocystin wrote:
| 3D printing has a bifurcation in the hobby; some people enjoy
| it for the objects they can make, some people enjoy it for
| the printers themselves. I pass no judgement either way, just
| an observation. I saw the same thing in the photography
| world; some were gearheads, some couldn't care less, and were
| focused on the image.
|
| As for me personally, I spent many entertaining, delightful,
| maddening and frustrating years playing with a frankendelta
| of bodged parts, broken firmware and hacked wiring. Learned a
| ton, don't regret any of it. But the moment I got an X1C, the
| Rostock has been relegated to Spiral Vase mode only. And I
| can't help but note my actual printing volume has increased
| dramatically when the process became less of a babysit.
| dotnet00 wrote:
| Yeah, that I can agree with. However I'm very much in the
| "gearhead" camp :)
|
| That's why I went with a DIY design. Similarly learned a
| ton, lately I'm finishing up a multi-material unit, then
| I'll start again by rebuilding and modding the disassembled
| Ender 3 to gift to a relative who has a slight interest in
| DIY stuff.
| rpmisms wrote:
| I print working firearms and firearm parts. I follow the bed
| levelling method detailed in GP, and I have never had a gun
| failure due to lack of precision, which is critical in
| firearms. I also do this with Nylon and TPU, zero issues.
| Sure, ABL is nice, but I'd rather use the budget on a proper
| hotend and direct drive.
| Mashimo wrote:
| > ABL is nice, but I'd rather use the budget on a proper
| hotend and direct drive.
|
| I agree with you, 5 years ago. But now days even cheaper
| china designed hotends can be decent. And direct drive is
| de facto standart.
|
| ABL is cheap and convenient.
| rpmisms wrote:
| This is all true, but FOSSCAD world is a little
| different, and a good hotend makes much more difference
| than ABL. Microswiss is the minimum. I need perfect
| extrusion, not perfect alignment along a non-critical
| axis. For the hobbyist, you are correct.
| londons_explore wrote:
| I haven't levelled my bed in months or maybe years... Sure,
| it was a pain to level it the first time, but once it's level
| it should stay level unless you disassemble the printer.
| rcarmo wrote:
| Thermal expansion (especially in long cycles) tends to warp
| beds.
| londons_explore wrote:
| Glass and aluminium do expand and might bend when heated,
| but they don't bend _more_ when heated hundreds of times.
| Therefore as long as you calibrate it when hot, it should
| stay calibrated (unless you let the calibration screws
| vibrate+turn or something)..
| rcarmo wrote:
| I have a 10-year glass bed on my Prusa clone that would
| like a word with you :)
|
| (I replaced it with a garolite sheet, am very happy with
| that)
| ravenstine wrote:
| Interesting. I don't think I've ever knowingly encountered
| heat expansion of the bed itself affecting the prints.
|
| I print on glass and only occasionally have to do anything
| about bed leveling. No need to pry or pull and mess up the
| leveling when all you have to do is just wait a few minutes
| for the print to cool and it pops right off. Never printed
| ABS on glass though, so I can't say if it works as well for
| that. Autoleveling would be cool, but I have very little
| interest in it because I haven't needed it and it seems like
| an added point of failure.
| planb wrote:
| I never got ABL to work with marlin, despite trying all
| possible configurations and versions, so I just did it the same
| way you do. With Klipper, it just worked when I first installed
| it. Never looked back.
| lawn wrote:
| With proper bed leveling and the right bed temperature you
| don't need to bother with hairspray.
|
| Having to resort to glue is often a sign that something else in
| your setup isn't tuned correctly. ABL is one thing that helps.
| numpad0 wrote:
| Mine is a 300x300x600mm frankenstein gantry build loosely
| based on Tronxy X1, so that's indeed on myself. But Marlin
| ABL didn't seem worth it even before I'd done upgrades.
| bborud wrote:
| It also helps to clean the build plate from time to time too.
|
| Over time grease from your fingers will make it onto the
| surface (no matter how careful you think you are). Some
| filaments also seem to leave behind an oily residue that
| builds up after a few prints.
|
| I haven't done much research on what I should be using so I
| have a bottle of iso and a sponge that I use to wipe down the
| surface. (A microfiber cloth would probably be better).
| TaylorAlexander wrote:
| I have twelve 3D printers and I bought my first machine, an
| Ultimaker 1, in 2011.
|
| I managed fine without it but every advancement that means less
| fiddling is a huge quality of life improvement that I always
| strongly prefer. I got ABL for the first time by modding it in
| to a printer I had. I then modded it in to my other printers,
| and now would never consider or recommend a printer without ABL
| unless someone is very broke and can only afford the cheapest
| Ender 3.
|
| The Prusa Mk4 improves upon older automated bed leveling
| techniques by using a load cell in the nozzle itself to measure
| exactly where the nozzle touches the bed, rather than using a
| sensor near the nozzle which then requires manual height
| calibration. I have five Prusa Mk3s but I really want the Mk4
| in large part for that.
|
| I am so bleeping tired of fiddling with my 3D printers, I just
| want them to work.
| starky wrote:
| The idea of having to put anything on your bed and fiddling
| with adjustment knobs seems so wrong when there are plenty of
| printers out there that are good enough now where I can send a
| print to them and maybe check on them in 10 minutes to make
| sure the first layer didn't fail and be confident that they
| will complete. From the very first time I used it I realized
| that ABL is a must on any printer now.
| yreg wrote:
| Maybe if you don't care much about the budget.
|
| I don't need a printer and only use it sparingly, so I chose
| an Ender v2 for like 250EUR. It has bed-leveling problems,
| but it's not enough of an inconvenience to be worth it to me
| to cough up 3x of the money for Prusa.
|
| If all else fails I use a glue stick, like the GP. There's
| nothing wrong with that, it works.
| Mashimo wrote:
| > Maybe if you don't care much about the budget. > I don't
| need a printer and only use it sparingly, so I chose an
| Ender v2 for like 250EUR.
|
| Now days you can get an Bambulab a1 mini for ~335 that has
| auto leveling, auto z offset, nozzle pressure sensor and
| can do a 14 minutes benchy.
|
| You can also get a Prusa mini is ~2 times the money of your
| Ender v2.
| yreg wrote:
| They both have smaller printable areas and +40%/+100% is
| still a pretty big price difference.
| Mashimo wrote:
| Sure sure, but you can care about budget and get a
| printer with decent sensors for auto z and bed level.
|
| I started with bed screws, and never want back to printer
| without probes or flexible bed sheet.
| starky wrote:
| I struggled with the cheaply built printer that requires a
| lot of upkeep the first time like many (Tevo Tarantula in
| my case), and in the end I realized that between the
| upgrades to just make it work safely, and the time wasted
| just fiddling around with getting it to print made the
| Prusa well worth the money.
|
| Buy the Ender if you want working on 3D Printers to be your
| hobby, if you want 3D printing to be your hobby, then buy
| something actually reliable. I would take a small build
| volume and high reliability over something larger every
| single time.
| yreg wrote:
| > if you want working on 3D Printers to be your hobby, if
| you want 3D printing to be your hobby
|
| Those two go hand in hand for all hobbyists I know,
| including the Prusa owners. I don't struggle with Ender,
| actually I was surprised how good it is, since my
| reference point was much older (and much more expensive)
| printers.
|
| Maybe I have lucked out on the build quality, I don't
| know.
| nirav72 wrote:
| ABLs are nice to have and printers should have them. But
| every so often, a manual bed level with a piece of paper goes
| a long way. Especially if you have a budget friendly printer.
| yokoprime wrote:
| I click print in my slicer and move on to do other things,
| casually looking at the camera feed a couple of times during
| the 1st layer
| ehvatum wrote:
| > unless said robot is specifically designed to be almost
| completely incapable of applying any force to any parts of a
| human body
|
| Be careful, but don't beat yourself up over it. Many CNC
| milling shops regularly run jobs that cannot succeed without a
| human gripping the workpiece to control vibration.
|
| The folks I really worry about are the waterjet cowboys. The
| garnet particles that lend a waterjet the power to cut titanium
| get embedded inches from the site of the wound, if that stream
| touches skin. Amputation one or two joints up from the wound is
| standard treatment.
| stavros wrote:
| I have a long history of woes with this stuff. I initially had
| a Wanhao that didn't have ABL, that worked fine as long as I
| didn't change anything. Then, I got a BLTouch, which made it
| worse because the Z distance would always be inconsistent
| somehow.
|
| I realized that Marlin must have some sort of bug, because it
| claimed to be able to print on tilted beds with ABL, but mine
| just didn't. I upgraded to Marlin 2.x and that was fixed.
|
| However, now I have this problem where the print lifts on
| certain regions of the bed. I have no idea what's up with that,
| I use one of those golden, textured PEI sheets and it works
| fine, except for these holes in areas.
|
| I wish someone would put a pressure sensor on the nozzle so it
| would always know the exact distance in real time and could
| compensate for anything, but we seem to be far from that.
| Symbiote wrote:
| > However, now I have this problem where the print lifts on
| certain regions of the bed
|
| If it's the edges of wide, flat prints, search for problems
| with "warping". Draughts and uneven heating can cause it,
| especially combined with poor adhesion to the bed.
| stavros wrote:
| It's not, it's a very odd issue in the middle of laying
| down a layer line, where a tiny mm raises/blisters, then in
| the next layer the raised part gets a bit longer, then a
| bit longer, until it becomes a big hole within twenty
| layers of this. It's very odd.
| Baeocystin wrote:
| I had a similar problem with my old Rostock Max, and it
| turned out to be integer math errors in the
| delta>cartesian conversion step. FWIW.
| RoseyWasTaken wrote:
| I can't agree with you on this. With bigger printer beds (I've
| got a 500mm x 500mm x 500mm machine) it's crucial to have ABL
| working, as the height of certain points of the print bed can
| be within a range of over 0.2mm, which, as I'm sure you know,
| is the thickness of a layer a lot of times.
|
| With simpler/smaller printers, sure, you can get away without
| an ABL probe.
| bbbbbenji wrote:
| I've also made something similar. It was originally for the Prusa
| Mini, but I've updated it with a beta that accepts an arbitrary
| array of probe points: https://bbbenji.github.io/PMSBLM/beta/
| Mashimo wrote:
| Title needs [2019]
|
| It's something that is build in on most UIs now days.
| m4rc3lv wrote:
| This is really cool!
| picadores wrote:
| So that is two layers of filler to create a perfect bed to print
| on?
| Mashimo wrote:
| ~0.6mm, two layers of you use 0.3mm, people often use 0.2mm
| layer height though.
|
| But I think mesh bed can handle this.
| picadores wrote:
| How does the printer compensate for precision loss do to
| movement? In industrial robotics, there is the concept of
| measuring the inprecissions in the machinery at any given
| point (direct measurement) and compensate that via variables
| in the robotic matrice. Is there something similar for
| printers?
| Mashimo wrote:
| I'm not sure. But in the end you are laying molten plastic
| on top of each other. Even with a perfect flat print
| surface you will have slightly uneven extrusion that will
| be noticeable on top down lighting.
|
| Silver cubes with direct lighting https://github.com/lord-
| carlos/mk3-upgrade/blob/master/asset... Same cube with top
| down light: https://github.com/lord-
| carlos/mk3-upgrade/blob/master/asset...
|
| What we have is Pressure Advanced. Where we stop extruding
| (as much) right before a corner. And we do that by doing
| some test prints with different values and eye balling it.
|
| Also some firmwares like klipper have some math in it to
| compensate for heat expansion over time of the printers
| frame. Or something like that.
| numpad0 wrote:
| Most hobby printers do not compensate at all. There are
| input shaping to reduce vibration, and hacked together
| closed-loop upgrades, personally I haven't heard of any
| more sophisticated controls.
| RoseyWasTaken wrote:
| ABL has been recently improved with the Beacon 3D probe
| (https://beacon3d.com/), I haven't had a chance to try it myself
| yet, as my cheap induction probe has been working reliably ever
| since I mounted it.
|
| But, the Beacon 3D along with mesh leveling and selective
| leveling area are my favorite recent innovations in 3D printing.
| stavros wrote:
| Does it work well? All I want is a reliable first layer, as
| that's what causes 99% of my failed prints.
| Kirby64 wrote:
| Yes, I have one and it works exceptionally well. The only
| caveat is that it's measuring the metal surface directly and
| not the actual physical surface (such as PEI), so you need to
| load different offsets if you swap between different material
| surfaces such as textured PEI, flat PEI or bare steel.
| stavros wrote:
| Oh, how does it do it? I thought it used light/laser to
| measure, if it's measuring the metal it might not be very
| accurate with my two layers of magnet and PEI sheet on
| top...
| Kirby64 wrote:
| It generates a field using the coil measures the eddy
| currents in the material directly below it. As long as
| you have a spring steel sheet and don't have those large
| discrete magnets (either lots of tiny round magnets or
| the sheet magnets) it works just fine.
|
| It's accurate to single digit micrometers (yes,
| actually).
| stavros wrote:
| Wow, that's impressive. Aren't most buildplates made of
| aluminium, though? Also I always worry that the PEI sheet
| over the plate will introduce inconsistencies, let alone
| that mine has an extra layer of magnet sheet on it (and,
| as you said, the magnet even makes the detection not
| work).
|
| However, it seems very doable to have a Beacon for the
| bed scanning, and a BLTouch for getting the physical
| distance over the sheet plate.
| Kirby64 wrote:
| Most PEI sheets are quite uniform so you don't really
| have issues with that. As long as they're applied to the
| build plate without bubbles they're generally as flat as
| the plate surface.
|
| Also, no, almost no build plates are aluminum. Modern
| printers usually use a silicone heater bonded to an
| aluminum frame, which either has magnets embedded in it
| or a sheet magnet applied on top of it, then a spring
| steel plate with some sort of PEI on top is what you
| print on. That's what Prusa and Bambu use, for instance.
|
| I don't know why you'd want to use BLtouch to get the
| physical distance, since you calibrate the physical
| distance when calibrating the beacon sensor itself. Not a
| problem unless you frequently swap between materials of
| different thicknesses.
| stavros wrote:
| > Also, no, almost no build plates are aluminum.
|
| Ah, I must be misremembering, thank you.
|
| > Not a problem unless you frequently swap between
| materials of different thicknesses.
|
| Yep, exactly, I have a PEI sheet (with a magnet) and it
| has a smooth and a rough surface, and I end up swapping
| between them sometimes. I guess it doesn't really make
| any difference, since they're both the same height (as
| they're two sides of the same sheet), but, as you say, my
| magnet sheet ruins the Beacon homing anyway.
| Kirby64 wrote:
| Explicitly a magnet sheet does NOT ruin Beacon and is the
| preferred magnet type for sticking down build surfaces.
| The only problematic magnets are point magnets that are
| very strong, as the magnet field can penetrate the
| surface of the material being scanned and impact the
| readings (but only at that point).
|
| It sounds like what you're describing is sheet magnet
| that is coated in PEI, but I highly highly doubt that is
| what you have. The magnet is attached to the frame, not
| the material that you print directly on.
| stavros wrote:
| > As long as you have a spring steel sheet and don't have
| those large discrete magnets (either lots of tiny round
| magnets or the sheet magnets) it works just fine
|
| Hmm, from this I understood that a sheet magnet _will_
| ruin Beacon.
|
| I don't have a magnet that's coated in PEI, I have a
| magnet sheet on the bottom (stuck to the big bed plate),
| and, on top of that, a thin steel plate (the one you bend
| to pop the print off) coated with PEI on each side
| (smooth/rough PEI). If the magnet sheet _under_ the steel
| plate doesn 't mess with Beacon, I'm going to buy a
| Beacon right now.
| Kirby64 wrote:
| See their FAQ documentation:
|
| https://docs.beacon3d.com/faq/
|
| What you're describing is the ideal material stack up for
| beacon. Only thing you may need to do is load a different
| nozzle offset for the smooth vs rough side, since the
| thickness of the PEI is probably not the same.
| stavros wrote:
| I did have a look, all it says is:
|
| > Magnetized rubber sheets have a high number of poles,
| and result in no detectable artifacts.
|
| Which kind of sounds like what I want, but doesn't
| _actually_ say "you'll be fine if you have a magnetized
| rubber sheet", "no detectable artifacts" might very well
| mean "the sensor doesn't detect your bed".
|
| Thanks for the clarification, this sounds great.
| TaylorAlexander wrote:
| Look in to the Prusa Mk4 which uses the nozzle itself with a
| built in load cell to probe the bed, providing perfect
| offsets every time!
| stavros wrote:
| Ah, damn, that's great! Not CoreXY, but I'm sure someone
| will put this on a CoreXY printer, and then no more bed
| leveling!
| TaylorAlexander wrote:
| Oh someone has put this on a CoreXY: ;)
|
| https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-3/
| stavros wrote:
| Ahaha XLent.
___________________________________________________________________
(page generated 2023-12-19 23:02 UTC)