[HN Gopher] How cheap digital verniers work (2017)
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       How cheap digital verniers work (2017)
        
       Author : jstanley
       Score  : 127 points
       Date   : 2023-02-07 12:32 UTC (10 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.mjt.me.uk)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.mjt.me.uk)
        
       | Animats wrote:
       | The key insight is in the patent: _" The transmitting electrodes
       | are powered with A.C. voltage in such a way that an electrical
       | rotary field forms which generates A.C. voltages on the receiving
       | electrodes, and the phase position from the transmitting signal
       | to the receiving signal is proportional to the displacement
       | between the stationary part and the displaceable part of the
       | transducer"_ It's not necessary to measure capacitance directly.
       | Just phase angle. Which has the nice property that, as you move
       | from one section of the comb to another, you're not going to get
       | a jump. It's inherently monotonic.
        
         | krisoft wrote:
         | > It's not necessary to measure capacitance directly. Just
         | phase angle.
         | 
         | Can that be done with analog circuitry or does the signal need
         | to be digitised?
        
           | KaiserPro wrote:
           | you can turn capacitance into a waveform pretty easily, thats
           | what the 555 timer does effectively, measure the time it
           | takes to fill a capacitor.
           | (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer_IC its analogue.)
        
       | michaelt wrote:
       | Article author here - apologies if you can't see the charts, it
       | seems in the time since 2017 some subresource-integrity-related
       | issue has arisen. I'll try to look into that, but in the meantime
       | I can assure you that you're not missing too much :)
        
         | toss1 wrote:
         | Loved the "Hello NoScript Users! A graph will appear here if
         | you enable javascript for ...". Accurate.
         | 
         | Very cool bit of work and writeup, I use these all the time but
         | never did a teardown -- thanks!
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | criddell wrote:
       | Why do so many cheap digital calipers have an issue with the zero
       | point jumping to 0.2" or 5.08 mm?
        
         | dTal wrote:
         | It's right in the article:
         | 
         | >The comb on the vernier shaft has a tooth pitch of 5mm. In
         | other words, if the slider instantly moved 5mm, it would be
         | undetectable, or 'ambiguous'.
        
         | [deleted]
        
         | ly3xqhl8g9 wrote:
         | It's such a constant bug across cheap vendors that there are
         | only two possibilities: (i) a global conspiracy from Big
         | Vernier, (ii) all the vendors in cause are using the same buggy
         | firmware.
        
         | jstanley wrote:
         | I've never observed this behaviour, but presumably it's because
         | 5.08mm is about the width of one of the pads on the "T"-shaped
         | section, and it falsely detected a movement when there was
         | none?
        
           | ly3xqhl8g9 wrote:
           | It's much weirder than that: you can close and open the
           | vernier in a particular fashion (very slow and then very
           | fast, it's an art) and keep adding 5.08mm in quantum steps:
           | 5.08, 10.16, 15.24. The largest value I got on a boring day
           | was around 200mm, on a 150mm vernier.
        
             | londons_explore wrote:
             | I'm kinda surprised it doesn't self-reset when closed and
             | then opened fully. That would be a very easy way to
             | automatically 'fix' any location ambiguity with software-
             | only changes.
        
               | mschuster91 wrote:
               | It would need some form of precise detection for that
               | event, which would be expensive.
        
               | ly3xqhl8g9 wrote:
               | Yes, as noted, it probably is some shared firmware bug,
               | it's just too consistent across vendors.
        
       | adolph wrote:
       | Big Clive also covered this a couple years later. Has more of an
       | emphasis on the teardown and schematic. The comments are also
       | great for links to other people's findings. This article is great
       | for more details about how the electrons move.
       | 
       | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKSSY1gzCEs
       | 
       | I'd like to adapt the concept using flexible pcbs to make a
       | largish Nest-style rotary encoder.
       | 
       | To understand Vernier measurement conceptually, the Wikipedia
       | article is actually not bad:
       | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vernier_scale
        
       | jstanley wrote:
       | I had always assumed that they worked like optical mice (i.e.
       | shine a light at a slightly-textured surface and watch the
       | surface move underneath), but it's much simpler than that.
        
         | Cthulhu_ wrote:
         | I think you wouldn't get very good sub-millimeter precision
         | with optical; I'm not very well versed in the subject, but
         | infrared has a wavelength of between 780 nm and 1 mm, these
         | things have to be more accurate than that.
        
           | amluto wrote:
           | The little PCB pads are something like 500000nm across, so
           | 780nm is nothing. You don't need a sharp picture of the thing
           | you're looking at to locate it.
        
           | pjc50 wrote:
           | You can get very high precision with light using a similar
           | technique: cause interference patterns. This lets you do sub-
           | wavelength measurement.
           | 
           | See also https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Very-long-
           | baseline_interferome..., where the wavelengths are typically
           | larger than light.
        
           | mattkrause wrote:
           | A millimeter is 1,000,000 nm, so even if you were wavelength-
           | limited (and interferential techniques let you side-step
           | that), there's plenty of wiggle room. Heck, you could go down
           | to visible blue light and free up another octave too.
        
         | londons_explore wrote:
         | Optical mice actually aren't good at precise relative
         | positioning because the way the lens is setup, if they are
         | moved slightly closer to the surface they 'see' more movement.
         | 
         | You would imagine that you could use some kind of registration
         | pattern(s) to solve this, but sadly nearly all mouse sensors
         | are made by Avago, and Avago runs their own algorithm on the
         | raw sensor data, and won't let you have the full data stream
         | (you can only receive it via a debug API which only lets you
         | get the data out super slowly). The avago ROM's are built into
         | the sensor, and run a little 8080 CPU with a neat DSP for
         | processing the image data, but sadly the system has too little
         | RAM for any exploit to run your own code on it.
        
           | bloopernova wrote:
           | Oh lord that would be an amazing hack in a story. A super
           | secure facility gets compromised despite using custom
           | firmwares on everything, but the mouse sensor slipped through
           | the cracks.
        
         | mk_stjames wrote:
         | Very large digital scales for digital readouts (DROs) on
         | machines like manual lathes and mills actually do use
         | quadrature optical encoding via etched glass scales inside
         | aluminum housings, similar to the light gate on a scroll wheel
         | of a mouse, but instead detecting fringe pattern light/dark
         | from the etching in the glass scale. The etching is typically 5
         | microns in spacing, so a resolution of 0.005mm, or sometimes
         | smaller. Because the glass is very stable this can be pretty
         | repeatable over large distances.
        
           | jbay808 wrote:
           | Just to expand on that, usually the etched scale pitch is 20
           | microns, but digital quadrature detection gives you 4x the
           | resolution of the scale pitch, resulting in a 5 um distance
           | between successive rising / falling edges of the quadrature
           | signal. Analog measurement can be used to interpolate to much
           | finer resolution, even 1 nm for good quality optical scales
           | with good electronics.
        
       | schneems wrote:
       | What do the expensive ones like mitutoyo do differently? I've got
       | a pair and the are definetly more consistent than $30 neikos.
        
         | eternityforest wrote:
         | My iGauging pair uses induction rather than capacitance, and it
         | has absolute positioning rather than dead reckoning, which is
         | really important because the cheap ones run the battery down
         | all the time, even when it's off it's still keeping track of
         | movement as far as I know.
        
         | michaelt wrote:
         | Article author here. Mitutoyo verniers are too expensive for me
         | to take apart for a lark, but as I understand it:
         | 
         | Cheap verniers are 'absolute modulo 10mm' as the T-shaped bar
         | pattern repeats itself. They produce 'absolute' measurements by
         | reading fast enough to keep track of how many whole bars
         | they've moved.
         | 
         | Fancier verniers instead have two tracks in parallel, with
         | slightly different pitches. Checking the offset between the two
         | patterns at the current location gives an absolute measurement.
         | This of course requires them to be factory calibrated etc.
         | 
         | They might also have slightly better electronics (some of these
         | cheap verniers need a new battery every 3 months or so) or
         | other differences.
        
           | Blackthorn wrote:
           | The electronics are absolutely a killer difference. The mitus
           | can actually turn off rather than just turn the screen off.
        
           | TheSpiceIsLife wrote:
           | I was just having a laugh with a near-retirement fitter only
           | yesterday about this: digital calipers _are not vernier_
           | calipers.
           | 
           | From Wikipedia:
           | 
           |  _A vernier scale, named after Pierre Vernier, is a visual
           | aid to take an accurate measurement reading between two
           | graduation markings on a linear scale by using mechanical
           | interpolation, thereby increasing resolution and reducing
           | measurement uncertainty by using vernier acuity to reduce
           | human estimation error._
        
           | dheera wrote:
           | > Mitutoyo verniers are too expensive for me to take apart
           | 
           | https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m.
           | ..
        
           | schneems wrote:
           | Thanks! It reminds me of those black and white wheels you use
           | to digitally encode rotation but stretched out linearly.
        
             | genpfault wrote:
             | > those black and white wheels you use to digitally encode
             | rotation
             | 
             | Gray codes[1]?
             | 
             | [1]:
             | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_code#Position_encoders
        
           | kevin_thibedeau wrote:
           | Mitsutoyo absolutes have a pattern that doesn't repeat. You
           | can pull the battery and reinstall at any setting and all you
           | lose is the zero offset correction.
        
           | regularfry wrote:
           | Oddly enough I've got a cheap pair that is quite easy to
           | accidentally trick into having a 5mm offset one way or the
           | other. I was wondering what the mechanism was. But that
           | doesn't match up with 10mm bars. Different pattern, or
           | different logic?
        
           | DoingIsLearning wrote:
           | > Fancier verniers instead have two tracks in parallel, with
           | slightly different pitches. Checking the offset between the
           | two patterns at the current location gives an absolute
           | measurement.
           | 
           | In your article you link to a patent on the cheaper T shaped
           | coatings, do you also have a reference to a patent
           | specifically using this system of parallel + different pitch
           | tracks?
           | 
           | Great write up by the way!
        
           | jseutter wrote:
           | I have one of the cheap calipers that needs new batteries
           | every 3 months. It both sucks and is surprisingly useful for
           | stuff around the house. I ended up buying a 20 pack of
           | batteries and leave them sitting in the same drawer as the
           | calipers so they're at hand when the current batteries
           | inevitably die. The Mitutoyo's are definitely a better tool.
        
             | Steltek wrote:
             | I bought a set of analog ("actual vernier") calipers for
             | daily use. I don't really need more than 0.1mm accuracy
             | anyway.
             | 
             | At the same time, I soldered a tiny power switch into my
             | cheap calipers to stop the battery drain issue.
        
               | aidenn0 wrote:
               | Totally OT, but is your username a WC Privateer
               | reference?
        
               | Steltek wrote:
               | It is. I am uncreative and it seemed suitably obscure to
               | be available on most sites.
        
               | joshvm wrote:
               | Ditto, you can get an analog Mitutoyo for not too much -
               | I think my 530 series was about 40-50 bucks, +-0.05mm.
               | It's nice because it never runs out of batteries,
               | accuracy is fine for everything I need it for (plus it's
               | traceable), and the slide action is very smooth. The
               | warranty is a bit lousy, only up to 3 years.
        
               | GuB-42 wrote:
               | The problem I have with actual verniers is not accuracy,
               | my vernier is actually more accurate than the cheap
               | plastic digital calipers I use most often. It is that
               | digital calipers are much easier to read, especially in
               | awkward positions.
        
               | jhallenworld wrote:
               | The built-in metric/imperial/fraction conversion is also
               | nice. I tried dial calipers that do this (they have two
               | dials), but they are even harder to read. It's better to
               | buy one imperial and one metric.
               | 
               | https://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Stainless-Accurate-
               | Shockproo...
        
               | phs2501 wrote:
               | They (digital calipers) are also a lot more convenient in
               | mixed-unit environments (e.g. PCB layout, which is why I
               | purchased mine) than analog ones. Granted since I live in
               | the US everything is mixed unit whether I like it or not.
               | :)
        
             | NegativeLatency wrote:
             | I just take the battery out, been using the same one for
             | like 3 years
        
               | kurthr wrote:
               | Hahahaha... OMG I worry that calipers (that aren't in a
               | machinists shop) are non-functional, if there isn't a
               | battery taped to the side!
        
               | martyvis wrote:
               | it's why in the case for mine there are two holes in the
               | foam for spare batteries
        
               | serf wrote:
               | I was OK with doing that for years and years until I bit
               | the bullet and bought a pair of (current day) Mitutoyos.
               | Now battery replacement is more on the order of 2 or 3
               | years under constant use, even with the occasional 'woops
               | I left it on' slip-up -- almost on-par with my 90s solar
               | Mitus'.
               | 
               | I feel like the cash spent on replacing batteries in my
               | 'crappy environment' calipers (usually harbor freight or
               | equivalent brands) could've easily paid for keeping
               | Mitutoyos in the bad environments, anyway.
        
               | CamperBob2 wrote:
               | I used to turn my Mitutoyo off after using it, but
               | eventually realized that it doesn't make enough
               | difference to bother. If I leave it on, the battery is
               | good for 2-3 years. If I turn it off, it will last for 5
               | or more years... but who cares, it's less trouble to
               | change the battery every couple of years than it is to
               | turn the caliper on and off every time I use it.
               | 
               | It's one of those from-my-cold-dead-hands kinds of tools.
        
             | TheSpiceIsLife wrote:
             | There was a period there a few years back where it was
             | difficult to find digital calipers that wouldn't stay off,
             | were so sensitive they'd automatically turn back on at the
             | slightest movement in the room, and didn't have auto-off
             | functionality.
             | 
             | Fortunately that phase seems to have passed and it's now
             | possible to buy very good digital calipers that
             | consistently match my $300 Mitatoyos, stay off when turned
             | off, and automatically turn off after a few minutes of
             | inactivity.
             | 
             | I was so impressed I bought another two and gave them away,
             | saves pulling out the Mitatoyos when someone at work wants
             | to borrow 'em.
        
             | YeahNO wrote:
             | I bought an AA battery case, bored a small hole in the
             | caliper's battery cover, fed wires through, secured them to
             | the contacts and used velcro to hold the AA battery case to
             | the back of the caliper. I can easily take the battery out
             | when storing and it always just works without having to buy
             | overpriced button cells. It does look a bit janky.
        
         | jstanley wrote:
         | I assume the same, but possibly implemented more precisely.
        
         | shimonabi wrote:
         | If you leave the battery inside a cheap caliper, the battery
         | will be dead in a couple of hours, even if the caliper is
         | switched "OFF".
        
           | MrBuddyCasino wrote:
           | Not all of them. I can recommend this one, it has long
           | battery life, good precision and smooth mechanics:
           | https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B002JU64F4/
        
             | shimonabi wrote:
             | A model that looks exactly the same costs 5EUR on
             | Aliexpress. I don't like to be ripped off.
        
             | brk wrote:
             | That looks very similar to one I use that typically gets
             | about 2 years of battery life.
        
           | luma wrote:
           | You're right but way off on timing. These common digital
           | calipers have a design error which does in fact drain power
           | while off, but it's nowhere near a couple hours. They
           | reasonably should last several years but in reality it'll be
           | on the order of 6 months or so.
        
             | weaksauce wrote:
             | i don't know if i'd call it a design error but it is a
             | cheaper design to manufacture than the more expensive kind
             | that requires calibration. could also be a patent
             | workaround. for something like 10 bucks many years ago i
             | got some nice stainless 12" ones that work fine other than
             | the lower battery life thing. they do lose track if the
             | battery is low though and you move the jaws quickly. just
             | have to have a bunch of batteries on hand and/or take the
             | battery out when not in use.
        
           | Symbiote wrote:
           | There may be different levels of "cheap".
           | 
           | I bought a EUR20 digital caliper (this one[1]) and the
           | battery is still fine, 21/2 years later.
           | 
           | [1] https://www.bauhaus.dk/alpha-tools-digital-skydelaerer
        
           | dsfyu404ed wrote:
           | This is obvious BS. Many of them get packaged and shipped
           | with the battery in them.
           | 
           | That said, they absolutely do eat batteries faster than the
           | expensive calipers.
        
             | shimonabi wrote:
             | It's not. I take the battery out after each use. Several
             | users have reported this, for example:
             | 
             | "Turns out they pull almost as much current off (15uA) as
             | they do on (17uA)."
             | 
             | https://www.reddit.com/r/harborfreight/comments/z7j8hp/fixe
             | d...
        
               | rsaxvc wrote:
               | An LR44 supplying 15 microamps will last more than 9
               | months before depleted. This base level of current draw
               | obviously matters to different users differently.
        
               | aidenn0 wrote:
               | Possibly not if you buy the LR44 from Amazon. I have
               | gotten batteries labeled "LR44" that were practically
               | useless. I've also gotten "SR44"s that were actually
               | LR44s.
        
             | abruzzi wrote:
             | my $10 Harbor Freight calipers are still on their original
             | battery after 8 years. So I'm not sure about these claims
             | about being constantly on and draining the battery. I think
             | instead that you have to have them fully closed when you
             | power it on so it can zero out. It also has a button to
             | zero.
        
               | skykooler wrote:
               | It definitely depends on the model. In my experience, my
               | cheap calipers from Harbor Freight run for far longer
               | before needing a new battery than my cheap calipers from
               | Home Depot.
        
             | rsaxvc wrote:
             | I think the worst offenders are the ones that use the
             | measurement circuit to detect if you've started a
             | measurement while the display is off.
        
         | varjag wrote:
         | They keep zero.
        
           | DanTheManPR wrote:
           | I think people might take your comment as flippant, but
           | keeping zero is a very important capability that higher-end
           | measuring devices can have. You can count on them not
           | drifting when you open them up and take a measurement, and so
           | you're not going to be off by a tenth of a millimeter every
           | other measurement.
        
       | throw0101a wrote:
       | So what is some good equipment to buy (at various price points)?
       | Has Project Farm (or someone else) done a ranking?
        
         | theatrus2 wrote:
         | The entry price of a pair of Mitutoyo calipers isn't that high,
         | and is the standard instrument pretty much everywhere.
        
       | pie314isi wrote:
       | If they don't have a vernier scale they're just calipers
        
         | somat wrote:
         | Was going to make the same comment, but was uncertain, so I
         | read the article, it does look like it uses a vernier sort of
         | mechanism to get much higher precision than a plain measurement
         | would.
        
         | causality0 wrote:
         | _Thank you._
         | 
         | That was driving me nuts.
        
           | fortran77 wrote:
           | No, that's what a socket set is used for.
        
             | geocrasher wrote:
             | Reminds me of the time I went into a pub right on the docks
             | of a fishing port. An old seafarer came in and sat next to
             | me. When I asked him about the ships steering wheel shoved
             | down the front of his pants he just looked at me and said
             | "Yar, it's drivin' me nuts!"
        
         | jameshart wrote:
         | I mean, from reading this the way they work is by detecting the
         | relative offset of two slightly differently pitched scales by
         | measuring a series of capacitances.
         | 
         | Honestly it's a much more 'vernier'-like mechanism than I'd
         | given it credit for.
        
         | DanTheManPR wrote:
         | This must be a regionalism; I've never heard of them called
         | "verniers" before.
        
         | cmiller1 wrote:
         | I've run into several older engineers that call all calipers
         | "verniers." It used to bug me but I guess it's okay for
         | language to be a bit flexible like that. I still call the shelf
         | in front of me in my car the "dashboard" even though it's not
         | blocking the rocks kicked up by a dashing horse anymore.
        
           | zrobotics wrote:
           | The reason this is annoying is that there are other measuring
           | devices that can have a vernier scale though. For example, in
           | my shop I have a cheap micrometer that only measures to
           | thousandths of an inch, and a more expensive one with a
           | vernier scale that measures to ten-thousandths. Offhand,
           | height gauges also commonly have a vernier scale.
           | 
           | The reason this is annoying in a shop environment is that
           | there are likely other tools around with a vernier scale.
           | That being said, I've also been around older machinists &
           | engineers who exclusively refer to gauge blocks as "jo
           | blocks", even when there wasn't a single set manufactured by
           | the Johansson company in the building. This is common enough
           | that searching for "jo blocks" returns a dedicated page on
           | mc-master: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/jo-blocks
        
             | SoftTalker wrote:
             | Do you blow your nose with tissue or Kleenex?
        
               | martyvis wrote:
               | It's funny how this comes up often. Even though Kleenex
               | is by and far the most popular brand here in Australia, I
               | don't ever recall anyone ever saying something like "pass
               | me a Kleenex". Maybe it's our penchant for either
               | shortening things (afternoon becomes arvo) or adding
               | synthesising suffixes for name (David is always Davo,
               | McDonald's are Maccas) that Kleenex doesn't work for us.
        
               | cwillu wrote:
               | There are regions that refer to any carbonated beverage
               | as "coke". As in "Hi, can I get a bottle of sprite coke"
        
           | dreamcompiler wrote:
           | Many years ago I did a stint at a big American car company.
           | The engineers there were adamant that the shelf you speak of
           | is properly called the "instrument panel." The "dashboard" is
           | a sheet of steel that separates the passenger compartment
           | from the engine compartment, and it's only accessible under
           | the hood.
           | 
           | I guess this is a car engineer's version of "that thing you
           | call the Internet is actually the web."
        
             | sokoloff wrote:
             | I'd have called that the "firewall" rather than the
             | "dashboard".
        
               | pbhjpbhj wrote:
               | I think the problem is the dashboard was originally an
               | optional panel seperating a buggy driver from the horse
               | pulling it; preventing dirt from getting dash-ed on to
               | them (from hooves; or horse-farts, I imagine). The part
               | on a tram, between the driver and road, was also called a
               | dashboard -- so it might have come to cars [automobiles]
               | via trams or omnibuses?
               | 
               | Dashboards were kept, and as gauges fell into use the
               | gauges were mounted on or about the dashboard. So the
               | dashboard is the ancestor to the gauge display holder,
               | and to the firewall.
               | 
               | Patent US652940 (1900) shows a water-level gauge mounted
               | to a dashboard in a "Whitney motor wagon".
        
           | InitialLastName wrote:
           | A few years ago, I found myself needing ready access to
           | disposable latex gloves in my car and was so happy to finally
           | be able to use the "glove compartment" for its nominal
           | purpose.
        
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       (page generated 2023-02-07 23:01 UTC)