[HN Gopher] 80/20 Aluminum T-slot Building Systems - Build your ...
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80/20 Aluminum T-slot Building Systems - Build your Idea
Author : thunderbong
Score : 255 points
Date : 2023-01-29 12:03 UTC (10 hours ago)
(HTM) web link (8020.net)
(TXT) w3m dump (8020.net)
| ur-whale wrote:
| I you're close to the EU, I recommend these guys:
|
| https://www.motedis.com/en
|
| They'll pre-cut everything you need and send it to you.
|
| If you're into aluminum extrusions, here's a sample:
|
| https://www.motedis.com/en/Slot-profiles
| hinkley wrote:
| There's a guy on YouTube who makes conversion vans using this
| stuff. He has figured out a bunch of tricks with it, but the one
| thing I feel like he hasn't figured out is that he's losing a
| cubic foot per cabinet by not exploiting the void behind the
| posts.
| sgt wrote:
| I recently used aluminium extrusions to build a window. Built a
| "perfect" frame, stuffed glazing putty into the spaces, then fit
| a glass in, which I had cut to size. Needed a DIY job as it was
| just for my garden house. There's more to a proper window than
| _just_ the glass and frame.
| Quequau wrote:
| I wonder how much outfits like Send Cut Send are eating into
| 80/20's market share. I know I've used laser cut sheet stock for
| a few projects that probably would have used aluminium extrusions
| in the past.
| doctorwho42 wrote:
| Probably not as much as Chinese extrusions have. You can find
| some pretty cheap and compatible aluminum extrusion on the
| internet these days. Ebay used to be the best, but now there
| are dedicated websites and everything. Extrusions have never
| been cheaper
| fbnlsr wrote:
| Are you sure? I've been looking at getting myself a sim
| racing rig made of aluminium extrusion and prices have
| skyrocketed in the past couple of years.
|
| I'd love to get some links on those cheaper extrusion
| websites you're talking about.
| ama5322 wrote:
| I doubt much if we think decades. Sheet stock has always been
| used in conjunction to modular systems such as these, via
| manual or CNC machining (slots and holes are trivial to do).
| The advantage of a modular system such as these is the ability
| to build a scaffold with only straight cuts and a few off-the-
| shelf connectors.
|
| In most cases you need a sheet metal press to form a scaffold
| out of _just_ sheet metal.
|
| For anything structural (ie: when thickness matters), the price
| of custom-cut sheet stock is not that competitive anymore.
|
| The price of machine-cut metal sheet has dropped quite a bit
| the last years though. I think it's filling a new niche, not
| really replacing the space of modular extrusions.
| strken wrote:
| I've been looking at aluminium extrusion videos on youtube for
| the past half-hour trying to work out how the dies have a
| circular void in the middle.
|
| Turns out it's a second die (called a mandrel) that locks into
| the main die (called a cap), and the hot pressurised aluminium
| flows around the mandrel then forms back into one piece as it
| goes through the cap.
| raisedbyninjas wrote:
| Same as the play-dough tube extruder.
| MengerSponge wrote:
| It's the same as pasta, but with different temperatures and
| tolerances!
| iancmceachern wrote:
| The coolest part (pun intended) is how they cool the semi-
| melted aluminum after extrusion, in long tanks of water, that
| have no sides, the sides are made from water pressure made from
| directing water flow.
| engineer_22 wrote:
| Please provide a link, this sounds insane
| iancmceachern wrote:
| This is the best I could find quickly:
| https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600594223702/Quench-
| Cooling-T...
| rco8786 wrote:
| Anybody into sim racing will be intimately familiar with this
| system. Very strong, very versatile.
| philjohn wrote:
| Came here to say the same thing. So many pre-made kits using
| it, and plenty of people who DIY a sim racing cockpit with it.
| SimRacingGarage has reviewed some 6DOF rigs which use 8020 at
| their core.
| sam_goody wrote:
| The wooden GridBeam system was trending a few hours ago, and I
| assume it reminded someone to post this.
|
| But if you missed it, and these things interest you, check that
| out as well: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=34565675
| tguvot wrote:
| Spent last couple of weeks browsing this site and other 80/20
| sites. There is an online cad program specially made for 80/20
| https://item.engineering/AUen/tools/engineeringtool/ . And some
| guy who makes woodworking jigs from extruded aluminum
| https://www.youtube.com/@jisakukobo/videos
| 14 wrote:
| Last I checked it was hard or expensive after shipping and duty
| to get this stuff. I am on Vancouver Island and would love to get
| some of this stuff. Made me even consider starting a business
| selling it.
| pitched wrote:
| The reason I haven't used these for a few past projects is that
| they can't quite hold up under human-scale weights (1). Would be
| awesome to have something like this but steel!
|
| 1: https://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/2010/p2433.pdf
| johnwalkr wrote:
| That's only really useful to compare sizes. Normally you just
| build your structure with as many supports etc as needed. And
| 30 degree, 60 degree, 90 degree etc connecting pieces are
| standard to add support struts.
| toss1 wrote:
| I've used 80/20 for a number of projrcts, but for a larger
| project I found this steel square/rectangular tube system from
| Flex Craft works well. No relation other than satisfied
| customer. The people are also great to work with.
|
| [0] flex-craft.com
| kris_wayton wrote:
| The chart doesn't seem to account for the profiles that only
| have a slot on 1 or 2 sides versus all 4. I would guess those
| are quite a bit stronger. Like this one:
| https://8020.net/media/catalog/product/cache/9208ae76a38c408...
|
| Edit: Their calculator shows the same exact deflection with the
| same weight, so maybe not, though that seems odd to me.
| https://8020.net/deflection-calculator
| quickthrowman wrote:
| You're looking for metal framing channel aka Unistrut (brand
| name) aka strut (trade name). 12 ga steel is going to be far
| stronger than extruded aluminum. It's heavily used in
| commercial and industrial construction.
| zeroping wrote:
| You might look into Unistrut or the other compatible steel
| strut channel.
| MengerSponge wrote:
| I've used all kinds of 8020 frames for things much larger and
| heavier than humans. You just have to use larger cross-section
| members:
| https://www.facebook.com/229125947114533/photos/pb.100063454...
| pitched wrote:
| That's what the chart I linked says. To stand on a 1m length
| suspended on both ends, a 2060 might work but a 2080 should
| be safe. That's just a bit smaller than a much cheaper wooden
| 1x4 though.
| chendii wrote:
| The popular open source option is www.openbuildspartstore.com
| Availible via many resellers worldwide and even cloned.
| IshKebab wrote:
| The best place I've found in the UK to get aluminium extrusion is
| KJN aluminium: https://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/
|
| They do Item and Bosch-Rexroth compatible extrusions for a
| reasonable price. I'd probably go with Item because the official
| BR stuff is a rip off and sooner or later you might want to buy
| "official" parts.
| viciousvoxel wrote:
| Great to have another T-slot build system. Seems slightly pricier
| than Makerbeam but a lot more profile sizes and options in
| general. I wish there were more kits in their catalog.
| 542458 wrote:
| 80/20 has been around since the late 80s, and are kinda the
| "classic" brand-name in aluminum extrusions. Popular for trade
| shows and the like. They tend to be on the more expensive side
| compared to Misumi or other brands, but you can sometimes find
| them cheap used on Craigslist.
| kris_wayton wrote:
| There's a US anti-dumping embargo on extruded aluminum, which
| seems to keep the price high.
| js2 wrote:
| As an example of how you can use this stuff, here's a home-
| theater screen frame with built-in horizontal masking, and plans
| on how it could be extended to 4-way masking:
|
| https://www.avsforum.com/threads/smx-simple-masking-experien...
| LightRailTycoon wrote:
| If you live near a Grainger or other industry supplier that will
| sell to the public, it's much cheaper without shipping.
| sschueller wrote:
| These types of aluminum extrusions have been used for many years
| (at least in Europe) in many industries to build all kinds
| temporary to more permanent structures [1]. Also the reason they
| ended up in 3d printers as they have been used in other CNC type
| setups.
|
| Oddly enough the Wikipedia article is very thing and not even
| available in English [2]
|
| [1] https://www.kanya.com/fileadmin/_processed_/3/1/csm_kanya-
| ag...
|
| [2] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konstruktionsprofil (German)
| Dries007 wrote:
| I think this is the equivalent page:
|
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-slot_structural_framing
| rasz wrote:
| I just merged them in wikidata
| neilv wrote:
| One of my startups used 80/20 successfully for the mechanical
| structure of our networked factory stations (along with
| industrial PC and sensors).
|
| Designed, tested, refined&tuned, and built in Cambridge (USA).
| Then broken down simply, to fit in a few pieces in boxes for
| flight, and reassembled at the factory in Asia.
| post_break wrote:
| Try tnutz.com. I found them much cheaper for building stuff. They
| cut it for you as well. Had to build some stuff for my truck and
| they were the cheapest.
| chiefalchemist wrote:
| Intriguing. But the concept is new to me, and I found the site
| not very n00b friendly.
|
| My initial questions are:
|
| Can I use it to build a greenhouse? And how much would that cost?
|
| I couldn't find anything comparable, and left.
| himinlomax wrote:
| Simple square aluminium tubing would be cheaper and with
| similar characteristics for this application. You can assemble
| them quite easily with a drill and bolts/nuts/washers of the
| appropriate size.
|
| The advantage these profiles have is that they are more
| precise, are more easily adjusted and allow for a wide range of
| connections.
| convolvatron wrote:
| Add a portable bandsaw to your collection and raw stock is
| probably ultimately more adaptable
| linsomniac wrote:
| I've done all of my extrusion cuts using my miter saw with
| just the stock wood blade, I go a bit slow and the cut is
| basically indistinguishable from the factory cuts. I assume
| it'd do as well on tube stock, but if I was cutting large
| diameter solid stock I'd probably go with a non-ferrous
| blade.
| tinco wrote:
| You could but it would be extremely expensive, and not as
| strong as a steel construction. If you are building a robot
| that tends to the plants in your greenhouse however, this is a
| great material to both build the skeleton of the robot, and the
| structure that holds your plants. It allows you to quickly
| prototype in a very precise and lightweight manner.
| chiefalchemist wrote:
| Thanks. Still intriguing, but now for other ideas / projects.
| I wish the site was more transparent on their sweet spot.
| sgc wrote:
| The sweet spot for extrusions is usually convenient
| precision. If you don't need relatively high precision and
| accuracy, they are often overkill.
| chiefalchemist wrote:
| Well, it's a cool tech-y look as well.
| iancmceachern wrote:
| Also check out Misumi. They will cut it to length, tap, drill
| holes, etc all just by configuring it woth part numbers. They Lso
| have pre made assemblies, you can get it in black anodized, and
| the pricing can't be beat, it's an order of magnitude less than
| other suppliers when you get the customizations.
|
| Also check out Vention, they'll design and build a whole machine
| for you using the stuff
| ddulaney wrote:
| A former employer swore by FramingTech:
| https://www.framingtech.com/
|
| Their super power was that you could ship them a SolidWorks
| file with assembly steps marked, then they would bag all of the
| parts by step (i.e. for step 1 in the build book, use all the
| parts in bag 1). Also, if you throw money at them you can get
| it shipped next day, which is a good option to have.
| tootie wrote:
| I've used openbuilds before. They sell all sorts of aluminum
| rails, wheels, brackets and motors. And they have a community
| of designers posting builds for all sorts of machines.
|
| https://openbuildspartstore.com/
| lvl102 wrote:
| Misumi is the only answer if you are building something with
| precision. Also checkout accu.co.uk.
| joshvm wrote:
| Accu are fantastic. They also have European sites and maybe
| more? Always my goto if we need weird screws and they will
| also make to order if you need something special.
|
| Edit : I would guess McMaster fills this role in the US, so
| it's nice to have an alternative here. Also they have a lot
| of non-standard lengths and things like tiny M2s or even
| smaller. We used them all the time for machine vision
| products (cameras often use M2 frame mounts, lenses with itty
| bitty grub screws).
| willis936 wrote:
| A coworker of mine told me about Misumi last week. They're
| pretty amazing and the prices are surprisingly great.
| joshvm wrote:
| They're pretty common in the 3D print industry. Also check
| out IGUS, who also do a lot of custom rails/rods. They're
| probably most well known for their plastic Drylin bearings.
| The prices are also reasonable for what you can get.
|
| I've been meaning to get some stuff from Makerbeam too, who
| make 10x10 mm extrusion at a good price (not sure who else
| makes small width stuff). Oozenest in the UK has a good
| range.
| w4rh4wk5 wrote:
| We've used Misumi for a small-scale project and the quality /
| price ratio was quite good. Would order again from them.
| elkos wrote:
| There's a 80/20 DIY Azimuth/Elevation rotator design by the
| SatNOGS team: https://wiki.satnogs.org/SatNOGS_Rotator_v3
|
| If you have access to a 3D printer and want to build a Az/El
| rotator suitable for LEO satellites it could be a great weekend
| project.
|
| (You don't have to connect it to the SatNOGS network
| https://network.satnogs.org of course, and you don't need to
| build that to participate in the project)
| s1mon wrote:
| If you need to build a CAD model of 8020 frames, Onshape is a
| collaborative, cloud based system which is a bit like Google docs
| and Github for mechanical CAD. There's a bunch of tools to create
| frame systems and they have the 8020 frame profiles built in.
|
| https://www.onshape.com/en/features/frames
| https://www.onshape.com/en/blog/announcing-onshape-frames
| steaktartaar_ wrote:
| I've been building out my sim racing setup with 8020 for the past
| three years. It's a goodsend if you want to build something
| durable, fast and cheap but can't work wood.
| DoingIsLearning wrote:
| When I was a teenager I used to improvise prototypes at home with
| those generic Meccano sets (small prototypes where the stifness
| of extrusion frames wasn't needed).
|
| Is there any modern equivalent? If I look for Meccano nowadays it
| seems to have gone the way of Lego, where you only have
| prescribed construction sets, haven't found generic parts sets.
|
| Is there any modern equivalent of Meccano for such an
| application?
| shagie wrote:
| Are you looking for https://www.fischertechnik.de/en/
|
| Things like https://www.amazon.com/fischertechnik-Creative-Box-
| Basic-Plu...
|
| And while many of the kits are "you can build this"... the
| interesting stuff is at
| https://www.fischertechnik.de/en/simulating - things like
| Training Factory Industry 4.0 24V with PLC connection board
| https://www.fischertechnik.de/en/products/simulating/trainin...
| p_l wrote:
| Looks interesting, but uses way more I/O than I expected :O
| jbay808 wrote:
| In Japanese hardware stores last year I spotted a new type of
| aluminum extrusion called "G-fun" by the "SUS" company, which is
| vastly superior in terms of rigidity and interconnection options:
|
| https://g-fun.jp/
|
| However, I can't find it anywhere in North America.
| jbay808 wrote:
| (Addendum: If you're wondering what makes it more rigid than
| traditional X-shape extrusions, it's partly because the joints
| are well designed, but mostly because the torsional rigidity of
| a thin-walled section is proportional to the square of the
| enclosed loop area):
|
| https://ocw.mit.edu/courses/16-20-structural-mechanics-fall-...
| joshe wrote:
| This might be the US version:
|
| https://leanfactoryamerica.com/brand/green-frame/
|
| The site mentioned "green frame" and googling found this, seems
| to be a licensor, since they have a brochure with "SUS" on it.
|
| Looks cool, thanks for mentioning it.
| shlubbert wrote:
| Love these guys and used them multiple times to build small
| structures. McMaster-Carr (obviously) also has a ton of handy
| connectors and fasteners: https://www.mcmaster.com/t-slotted-
| framing/
| phasetransition wrote:
| If 80/20 is new to you, then you might also be unfamiliar with
| its steel channeled cousin, Unistrut. https://www.unistrut.us/
|
| Unistrut is used extensively in the US to build support
| structures for electrical switchgear and process equipment. You
| can get grades suitable for outdoor and corrosives exposure.
|
| Unistrut is the Kleenex term, there are a number of work-alike /
| fit-alike systems.
|
| Then for round tube, there is Kee Klamp: https://keesystems.com/
| rambambram wrote:
| I love the Kee Klamp system (or just 'steigerbuis' as we call
| it here in NL). I built furniture with it in the past, and also
| a bicycle caravan (https://www.theredpanther.org).
| thetinguy wrote:
| Also open builds v-slot is excellent
| https://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-linear-rail-1/
| mturmon wrote:
| Unistrut ("strut") also has trolleys that roll in the track
| (1). Very useful for overhead roller systems in a workshop. Be
| very mindful of fastener clearances if installing one.
|
| I don't have the handheld, portable bandsaw ("portaband") that
| tradespeople usually use to cut strut, so I use a grinder with
| a cutoff wheel (noisy) or a sawzall with a metal cutting blade
| (more civilized).
|
| (1) https://unistrutstore.com/1-58-metal-
| framing/unistrut-p2750....
| alanbernstein wrote:
| For lighter duty, there is maker pipe: https://makerpipe.com/.
| it's nice because the bulk of the system is electrical conduit,
| which I think is one of the cheapest type of beam/tube
| available.
| 123pie123 wrote:
| I like this stuff - thanks for sharing
| cwillu wrote:
| Hmm, especially handy given how simple emt is to bend (hand
| tool available from any hardware store that sells emt)
| idiotsecant wrote:
| There is definitely an art to making accurate bends,
| especially in more than one plane! I have never had more
| respect for the conduit work electricians do every day with
| EMT than when I tried to learn how to do it myself.
| saalweachter wrote:
| DIY is a great way to learn what you're willing pay
| someone else to do a job faster and better.
| jchw wrote:
| Not sure why this is getting downvoted, it's true. I have
| been going down DIY rabbit holes and learning about a lot
| of stuff that I wouldn't want to DIY. I always thought
| that list included "AC/electrical work" but, actually,
| not really, except maybe the service panel itself. If
| anything, the work I've done is significantly more likely
| to be up to (current) code than what was already here...
| phasetransition wrote:
| Kee Klamp for EMT, cool.
| SECProto wrote:
| > electrical conduit, which I think is one of the cheapest
| type of beam/tube available.
|
| There have been pretty serious PVC conduit shortages for the
| last year or two. In construction projects I've worked on,
| they've had to uprate to (much more expensive) fibreglass
| conduit as PVC was simply not available.
| idiotsecant wrote:
| parent post is not taking about pvc, they're talking about
| EMT.
| FatActor wrote:
| Depends on the job. Cutting unistrut is far more challenging
| than 80/20, it weighs a lot, and the connectors are expensive
| because they are engineered to bear significant loads. 80/20 is
| a little pricier per foot but it is much, much easier to work
| with for applications that don't need to withstand a nuclear
| strike.
| peteradio wrote:
| Not sure if the throat is large enough but a portable
| electric bandsaw would be able to chew through the unistrut
| steel and in the jobs I've used them on they are precise
| enough.
| samtho wrote:
| Portable electric bandsaw is the tool of choice for most
| electricians who use Unistrut.
| [deleted]
| lazide wrote:
| An angle grinder with a cutoff wheel similarly has no
| issues.
|
| It can be a fire/noise/dust hazard, you wouldn't want to do
| it in a grassy field or server room, but for any
| construction site it's easy peasy.
| samtho wrote:
| I used to work in construction and the electrical trade. I've
| shown so many people the power of this seemingly esoteric item
| in the electrical aisle at Home Depot. It's so flexible and you
| disassemble it with one or two tools depending on which
| fasteners you use.
| jameshart wrote:
| Another extremely flexible lighter-weight structural tube
| fitting standard that's widely available is the 1.5" tubing
| used for drum racks. Not sure if there's a broader standard
| that the musical instrument industry is building off there.
|
| Was pleasantly surprised recently to find that the same
| diameter of fittings was used in an adjustable monitor stand,
| so if you wanted to mount a cowbell above your dual screen
| mount the fittings are easily combined.
| [deleted]
| zeroping wrote:
| Good to keep alternatives in mind. I have found unistrut
| significantly cheaper when you want to build larger scale or
| stronger stuff. It's not super versatile, but can still do a
| lot.
| phasetransition wrote:
| I've used Unistrut and adjacent (flex-craft) more than 80/20.
| They all have good use cases.
| nimajneb wrote:
| I just put the metal strut in my Honda Ridgeline truck as rails
| to attach tie down stuff to. Hopefully it works well for me.
| thecrumb wrote:
| Got details? I have a ridgeline as well and was curious about
| doing something like this with a track.
| nimajneb wrote:
| I bought a 10ft long piece of the strut from Lowes. I
| bought the slotted type, but I should have gotten the one
| without slots, the springs on the strut washers get stuck
| on the slots when sliding them. I cut the strut to length,
| I think it was 4ft. I bought longer bolts too, I think they
| are M6 and I bought 1 or 1.25 inches. I bought 1/4 inner
| diameter 1.5 inch outer diameter washers to attach with the
| strut nuts. I attached some D rings to those. I can answer
| more questions if you have them. I drive a 2022 Ridgeline
| for reference.
| Blackthorn wrote:
| I knew about 80/20 but this is the first I've heard of
| unistrut. Thanks.
| lazide wrote:
| FYI, most hardware stores will have a selection in their
| electrical aisle, along with basic threaded connections for
| 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bolts, angle connectors, etc.
| londons_explore wrote:
| I want this, but I don't want to pay much more than the raw
| aluminium cost.
|
| The cost of pushing aluminium through an extrusion die is nearly
| zero. The die cost isn't much anymore in the world of cheap CNC
| machining. And the R&D costs for coming up with the shape
| shouldn't be high (and already paid off years ago).
|
| So why is that stuff still so expensive??
| simontheowl wrote:
| By that logic, the lego sets we buy for our kids should also be
| the cost of plastic ;)
| DoingIsLearning wrote:
| > So why is that stuff still so expensive??
|
| Bosch Rexroth.
|
| Bosch's extrusion profiles are what people at big co's who need
| stiffness and don't care about price tag will buy.
|
| My guess is that Bosch warps the whole market up and the
| competion follows.
| acyou wrote:
| You used to be able to buy a basic extrusion die in China for
| $500 and off to the races at $0.80/lbs extrusion cost with
| 500kg MOQ.
|
| Wonder if there's patent protection on the US sale of that
| profile?
|
| You still have to cut it, ship it, distribute it, sell it. If
| you were buying 500 kg, you too could probably find a way to
| get it cheaply made.
|
| As a counterexample, I will say:
|
| The cost of typing characters on a keyboard is nearly zero. So
| why is software still so expensive??
| londons_explore wrote:
| Remember it isn't quite a basic extrusion die because it has
| a hollow in the middle. I assume that at least requires some
| fancy 3d shape.
| londons_explore wrote:
| The patent expired in 2013. (US5429438A)
|
| I wonder if just nobody noticed?
| acyou wrote:
| I imagine most users are engineers employed by companies.
| This would tend to decrease the price sensitivity while
| increasing the desire to go with a brand name.
|
| I see now McMaster-Carr has their own knockoff, they for
| sure can successfully leverage their reach, reputation and
| brand recognition to compete. I imagine price must go down
| once enough people catch on that this is a relatively
| unprotected commodity and enough reputable players have
| cross compatible offerings.
|
| https://www.mcmaster.com/products/t-slotted-extrusions
| jvanderbot wrote:
| Demand. It's ubiquitous. I've seen it in every prototype or
| mockup or early version of every larger-than-a-breadbox system
| I've worked on. It's used for lighting, sound systems, camera
| mounts, even shelving in some cases.
|
| Whenever two or more engineers get together to design
| something, 80/20 is there in spirit at least.
| andrewdubinsky wrote:
| Is this just an ad?
| hsnewman wrote:
| Thanks! I'm going to build a bike cart and although Wize has a
| kit, I would rather use my design, this info will help greatly!
| furazoball wrote:
| More modern equivalent to 8020 - https://vention.io - really
| great way to get started developing an idea!
| mhb wrote:
| What does _more modern_ mean?
| rjohann wrote:
| I call it lego for the industry. Many 3d printer frames are made
| of it. Sim racing rigs are made of it.
| elteto wrote:
| I call it legos for adults, with the price tag and everything
| ;)
| sschueller wrote:
| I would argue that LEGO is more expensive, way more
| expensive.
| leobg wrote:
| So what would be a LEGO for adults _without_ the price tag?
| convolvatron wrote:
| Just bar, sheet, tube and round steel. Still less than
| $1/lb
| 111111101101 wrote:
| PVC pipes and fittings.
| maineiac wrote:
| Signed back in for the first time in... years... to add that a
| lot of DIY van / overlander builders are using this stuff! I
| opted for the cheaper but almost-as-good TNutz.com manufacturer
| for my build. Slightly different alloy but totally valid for my
| needs. If you're considering building a van, check out Seven-O-
| Savage on youtube:
|
| How to build a van with 80/20
| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqiroMdqZ0Y
| harryvederci wrote:
| _Puts wooden chair in house._
|
| How to build a wooden house!
| jorts wrote:
| So weird I for the first time ever was looking at 80/20 for
| overlanding and this ends up on HN.
| techdragon wrote:
| With all the recommendations flying around, I'd like to seek the
| collective wisdom's advice, as I've been looking for suppliers
| anywhere in the world that make these kinds of metal construction
| framing systems that either make locally in my country or state,
| or have low bulk shipping to it. I've been trying for ages to
| find a way to avoid the significant markup to ship these sorts of
| heavy metal items to Western Australia. I've even been keepin
| regular tabs on local metal extruders and the few theatres have
| extruders in state are pretty much entirely making things for the
| housing/building construction industry and a couple of standard
| garden/industry forms like tube triangle, square, star picket,
| etc...
|
| Anyone got advice on good suppliers local or global? I'm happy
| waiting a month or three for stuff to arrive from anywhere on the
| globe if it means I don't spend 15-25% on shipping.
| am_lu wrote:
| For small stuff there is also makerbeam, 10x10mm sized, uses M3
| fasteners. https://www.makerbeam.com
| techdragon wrote:
| Unfortunately it's prohibitively expensive for larger
| "intricate" work projects. Otherwise it's good stuff. Just a
| little more expensive than I'd like per linear meter.
| [deleted]
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