[HN Gopher] Documentary heritage: fungal deterioration in Compac...
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       Documentary heritage: fungal deterioration in Compact Discs
        
       Author : Hooke
       Score  : 45 points
       Date   : 2022-12-26 18:03 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (heritagesciencejournal.springeropen.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (heritagesciencejournal.springeropen.com)
        
       | shiftpgdn wrote:
       | I think if you vacuum sealed the disks it would help prevent the
       | issue.
        
         | tristor wrote:
         | You would think this, but I don't think it's true. Effectively
         | sealed optical discs still get fungal growths. I think the
         | fungal spores are already on or in the disc
        
       | foobarbecue wrote:
       | I have a DVD bought off of ebay. It's probably 20 years old, but
       | never opened. It was a soccer-teaching video for kids that my
       | girlfriend bought because she starred in it as a kid.
       | 
       | When we opened the package, we found that there are ~100 raised
       | white spots on the surface of the disc, about 1mm diameter. They
       | don't wipe off easily. We haven't been able to get the disc to
       | play. I would love to know of a good way to clean these, and also
       | what they are -- fungus hadn't occurred to me before but seems
       | possible.
        
         | twawaaay wrote:
         | For what is worth I have successfully dealt with scratched CDs
         | by applying a cream that I found to be almost the same
         | refractive index as the plastic of the CD.
        
           | WalterBright wrote:
           | Sometimes helmet grease works, too.
        
           | nvrspyx wrote:
           | When I was young, I had a few scratched PS2 games that
           | wouldn't play. Some advice on the internet was to put
           | toothpaste on the CD, gently rub it in small circular motions
           | around the CD with a paper towel, then rinse it off. Perhaps
           | I'm misremembering, but I remember being surprised it worked
           | for most of them.
           | 
           | It might've been specific to PS2 games and whatever material
           | they were made of and/or how they were pressed, so I wouldn't
           | recommend it as general advice. This thread just reminded me
           | of it.
        
             | rzzzt wrote:
             | Toothpaste is a mild abrasive, if the scratches weren't
             | deep it removed them entirely.
        
               | twawaaay wrote:
               | I still feel that a fluid that can fill the scratches and
               | cause them to basically disappear is much better.
               | 
               | If the CD is damaged the goal should really be to read
               | the data once, then throw it away. So I think it is fine
               | that the filling/oil/grease is one time only because I
               | don't need it to work more than once.
               | 
               | With toothpaste there are risks. There is the risk that
               | the scratches are deeper. Not only you will not be able
               | to polish it out, you can get toothpaste particles in
               | there permanently.
               | 
               | In any case, applying oil is just so much easier -- you
               | only need to wipe the CD with it and then wipe the excess
               | thoroughly.
        
               | rzzzt wrote:
               | I've heard the same advice for treating light damage on
               | an LCD screen. The deciding factor between using either
               | method should indeed be the depth of the scratch (and how
               | well you can estimate it).
        
         | rasz wrote:
         | Article is about CD-Rs, afaik those used organic dye. DVD you
         | bought sounds like pressed one = no organic materials. Whats
         | more DVDs are build in a way where the data surface is
         | sandwiched between two sealed polycarbonate platters.
        
         | codetrotter wrote:
         | Try using a piece of cloth, some water, and a little bit of
         | dish washing soap
        
           | Springtime wrote:
           | Yeah, from what I've read from optical disc enthusiasts[1]
           | isopropyl or plain dish soap with a cloth rag is suitable for
           | cleaning. Anything that can cause abrasion like paper towels
           | are best avoided.
           | 
           | [1] http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/media/12002-maintenance-
           | opti...
        
             | neilv wrote:
             | Be careful with isopropyl. I've seen 70% or 91% poured over
             | the print side of a movie DVD, causing it causing the
             | printing to slough right off.
        
         | foobarbecue wrote:
         | Update: rubbed a bit harder with some IPA and they came right
         | off. Now I just have to find a working dvd drive. Edit: I did,
         | and the disc works fine! Imaged and ripped it.
        
         | IIAOPSW wrote:
         | It might help a lot if you could post a picture of it.
        
       | SoftTalker wrote:
       | I have never liked the CD/DVD media. As much as its durability is
       | alleged, I have not experienced it. They are very sensitive to
       | scratching and must be spotlessly clean to work. In the hands of
       | children, I always had better luck with VHS tapes.
        
         | tgv wrote:
         | They don't have to be spotless. Audio CDs at least also play
         | when scratched and dirty-ish. I don't recommend it, because the
         | dirt can fall off and accumulate inside the player, but I've
         | had very few problems. I got my first in '84 or '85, and all
         | but two of 500+ still can be played back. I've never had a
         | problem with a DVD, but they are considerably newer.
        
           | layer8 wrote:
           | Audio CDs are still able to play back with significant bit
           | errors (CD players just interpolate over the unreadable
           | parts). It's different for CD-ROMs and data CD-Rs.
        
       | account-5 wrote:
       | I can't be the only one amazed that fungi is biodegrading these
       | materials. Fungus really is an amazing organism we don't know
       | enough about
        
       | jacquesm wrote:
       | Aluminum based CD-R are a bad choice for this, if you want to
       | have CDs that last long (or DVDs for that matter) you should use
       | gold based ones, they last a lot longer than the aluminum ones.
       | They are also quite a bit more expensive.
       | 
       | Look for 'Archival Grade' or something similar in the product
       | name.
        
         | brazzy wrote:
         | AFAIK, there are no aluminum based CD-Rs, the silver-looking
         | ones actually have silver or silver alloy reflective layer.
        
         | lmmgc wrote:
         | [Account created by mistake]
        
           | brazzy wrote:
           | Gold doesn't oxydize. AFAIK that is a problem that
           | _sometimes_ affects aluminium based discs, when the
           | polycarbonate seal is defective.
           | 
           | If you want to be really sure of maximal shelf life, you'd
           | use glass instead of polycarbonate as well - the
           | manufacturing technology exists:
           | https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/the-2000-cd-
           | made-f...
           | 
           | But all of that is really not relevant at all for backups
           | because the CD-R dyes will degrade long before the reflective
           | layer. The shelf life of the reflective layer is an issue
           | when talking about pressed discs.
        
           | hguant wrote:
           | Because gold is incredibly non-reactive?
        
       | docandrew wrote:
       | CD-Rs always smelled vaguely like celery to me, I wonder if this
       | has something to do with it?
        
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