[HN Gopher] This to That
___________________________________________________________________
This to That
Author : robin_reala
Score : 403 points
Date : 2022-12-10 07:22 UTC (15 hours ago)
(HTM) web link (www.thistothat.com)
(TXT) w3m dump (www.thistothat.com)
| ekianjo wrote:
| I find it distasteful that the answer is a brand name instead of
| an active ingredient. not all brands are available worldwide, and
| it's better to know what it is made of to check for actual
| options.
|
| It also makes people think happen by magic instead of letting
| them learn about what makes the glue work.
| throwoutway wrote:
| I disagree. If I'm in the middle of a project, I'd rather get a
| product name and go directly to the store. I don't want to
| search for multiple products. I can always look for the
| chemical in the product if needed
| newaccount74 wrote:
| None of the glues I have list ingredients. I have no idea
| what's the "active ingredient".
| ekianjo wrote:
| You just need to read the back of the package.
|
| https://smokewrap.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/74c105.
| ..
|
| Here for crazyglue: standard cyanoacrylate, like in most
| "super glues".
| newaccount74 wrote:
| Okay, I checked my glues and some of them do list
| ingredients.
| coding123 wrote:
| It's probably because they wanted to be useful to lay people.
| Something us hackers often forget. Be useful.
| lucideer wrote:
| Not only are many brands not universally available, even those
| that are more often than not have different recipes in
| different regions.
| wartijn_ wrote:
| I think calling this "distasteful" is pretty dumb. it's a
| website that has offered a free service for decades. If I
| wanted to glue some glass to metal, I wouldn't want to which
| ratio of certain ingredients I'd need. That would just result
| in me having to check the description of dozens of packages in
| a shop, while I would forget the names of those ingredients as
| soon as I'd bought the glue and I have no idea what the effect
| of a different ratio will be. I'd be just a bunch of useless
| information, while knowing which product I need to buy is
| providing a service people actually use.
|
| Too bad that it's not super useful for people who don't live in
| the US, but you can't make everyone happy.
| ekianjo wrote:
| > I wouldn't want to which ratio of certain ingredients I'd
| need. That would just result in me having to check the
| description of dozens of packages in a shop,
|
| Glues are not a long list of ingredients like a recipe or
| something. There's only a few ingredients that actually
| matter in making things stick.
|
| > That would just result in me having to check the
| description of dozens of packages in a shop,
|
| Checking ingredients is a good thing in a store. Not sure why
| people find this kind of thing a problem. Aren't you curious
| with what things are made?
| schrectacular wrote:
| So wait, originally you are upset that the creator of the
| site didn't do extra legwork for you. Then immediately
| after you are chiding someone for not being curious and
| wanting to know what's inside their glues... Seems like the
| obvious solution would be for you to take your own advice
| and look up the product name to find out what's inside.
| Curious people can and will do that.
|
| We don't have a problem with people checking ingredients.
| We have a problem with you coming in and telling people
| that they should check ingredients but also that the
| author's work is _distasteful_ because they should have
| provided the ingredients so you don't have to check
| yourself.
| [deleted]
| ekianjo wrote:
| > should have provided the ingredients so you don't have
| to check yourself.
|
| I provided a rationale as to why it matters: the same
| glues are not available under the same brand name
| everywhere, and the brand name is irrelevant. If a brand
| disappears for some reason, it does not mean that this
| type of glue is gone.
| ipaddr wrote:
| Couldn't you get the recipe based on the brand name if
| not available in your region?
| crazygringo wrote:
| There are complete lists of ingredients on everything in my
| grocery store. But NOT in my hardware store.
|
| A large majority of items don't tell you what's in them at
| all. Sometimes Googling will tell you the main ingredient
| in a product, but often it won't or you'll get conflicting
| answers from random forum posts.
| ekianjo wrote:
| > NOT on my hardware store
|
| Not true - because the regulations of almost every
| country require to mention the ingredients that compose
| more than a few percents of the formulation. There is no
| long list on ingredients on certain glues because they
| can as simple as 100% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate.
| akanet wrote:
| Sometimes I'm curious, sometimes I just want to glue two
| things together to finish my project. Do you meet many
| people who mix their own glues?
| bxparks wrote:
| I've been using superglue (cyanoacrylate) to attach a small metal
| L-bracket to some IP65-rated ABS plastic boxes, then hanging them
| on a nail or screw using the metal bracket. The boxes contain
| battery-powered temperature sensors. This has worked great for
| several years for the attic and crawlspace. But the outside boxes
| fall off every winter. I think the metal and plastic expand and
| contract at different rates through the temperature swings
| (40C/104F summer, -10C/14F winter) causing the bond to break.
| Amusingly, superglue is NOT one of the recommendations given on
| this website (LePage's Metal Epoxy, J-B Weld, Faststeel Epoxy
| Putty) for Metal to Plastic.
| kellyharsh wrote:
| vfinn wrote:
| Maybe you don't mind me asking. I have a small hole in my top-
| loading washing machine's rubber seal and I have been wondering
| whether it could be fixed (a new seal costs 100$ and it'd feel
| nuts to throw it away for environmental reasons alone). I know
| there are rubber glues, and I have made tests with one, but the
| question is can they be used inside a washing machine. Does
| anyone know (a solution to this problem)? The hole is 4cm x 1cm.
|
| Edit: As a side note I have wondered also whether I could use two
| pieces (of metal, let's say) that I'd screw/press together
| tightly to prevent the leak. Does that make any sense?
| doctorwho42 wrote:
| Depending on the size and shape of this seal(gasket), you can
| go one of two paths; (1) use a gasket compound, it comes out
| liquidish and then sets into a rubber. (2) buy sheet gasket
| material similar to your gasket, and trace and cut the gasket
| out. Depending on size the sheet cost could very between a few
| dollars to like $10-15.
| bagels wrote:
| Hard to know whether a metal gasket would work here, but it's
| extremely unlikely as you need tight tolerances and high
| clamping force. Rubber is used here probably because those
| things are absent, and there is probably movement involved.
| Other commenter has the right idea, you can probably make a new
| gasket.
| Amorymeltzer wrote:
| Discussion from a few years ago:
| https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=21110712
| Waterluvian wrote:
| My dishwasher tub is made of a kind of plastic that's very good
| for not absorbing foods/liquids but therefore is very bad at
| having anything adhere to it.
|
| This is a problem as a tiny hole was burned through it. I've had
| a hard time finding something that plugs the hole. Various
| epoxies. Silicone caulk. JB weld for plastics. Everything peels
| off in weeks or months.
| bagels wrote:
| You can use mechanical fasteners (rivets) and a rubber gasket
| possibly?
|
| Or, make the hole uniform to accept a plug (again, mechanical
| attachment)
| [deleted]
| blowski wrote:
| The site has existed in this format since the late 90s, when
| CGI was how you did these things. That it hasn't really needed
| to change in 20 years speaks to the quality of websites built
| like this, not their "shittiness".
|
| Compare it to a site built 2 years ago with APIs and CDN-hosted
| assets that no longer exist.
| into_infinity wrote:
| It's an ancient website, although it's both a bit too specific
| and not specific enough.
|
| An example of insufficient specificity: "rubber". Both silicone
| rubber and SBR are rubbers, but they behave very differently (and
| almost nothing bonds silicone). Another example: "plastic".
| Again, this spans both easily-glued materials such as ABS, and
| hard-to-glue commodity plastics such as HDPE or PP, where almost
| nothing sticks.
|
| An example of excessive specificity: pretty much everything else.
| Low surface energy materials aside, gluing ceramic to plastic
| isn't hugely different from gluing metal to ABS. The real
| question for most gluing projects is whether the joint needs to
| be flexible, how much of a gap you need to fill, and how good it
| needs to look.
| thayne wrote:
| Well, I think the target population is the general population.
| And most people probably don't know what kind of plastic they
| are using, and wouldn't know that gluing metal to ABS is
| similar to gluing ceramic to plastic.
|
| I certainly wouldn't have known that.
| themodelplumber wrote:
| This reminded me of a recent experience. I ordered a budget,
| homage Scout Knife, based on the Aitor Gran Capitan "Spanish Army
| Knife" pattern (produced sans corkscrew of course, which made me
| chuckle since I'd been a bit of a rebellious scout myself). The
| knife arrived and the scales promptly began to detach after some
| vigorous sharpening.
|
| I was surprised to remove the scales and discover they were glued
| on, smooth plastic to smooth metal. (The factory glue was amber
| colored, bubbly, and rubbery, with a pizza-cheese effect when
| pulled cold)
|
| I knew it was a budget tool, but somehow expected at least basic
| friction-fastening at the metal rivet points. Instead, there was
| this glue on the scales' inner plastic lattice work, plus some
| friction pressure around the scale edges.
|
| I mixed up some epoxy, which as I was raised is something of a
| knife hobbyist's friend. I still have a zero-tang carving knife
| my dad made by epoxying a Victorinox blade into antler.
|
| Just as I was getting materials ready to sand plastic and metal,
| I noticed the epoxy mix was already in the advanced stages of
| setting!
|
| Turns out I had purchased "4 minute set time" epoxy from PC
| Epoxy. And it had been nearly that long since the mixing. Instead
| of my usual dilemma of waiting for things to set, the situation
| was suddenly more urgently coming together.
|
| Usually I prepare surfaces with plenty of time left in the
| curing, so personal experience had led me astray on account of
| not typically needing to read the epoxy product label closely.
| I'd never seen 4-minute epoxy at the store before.
|
| So, I really hope my unsanded but hastily- and liberally-coated
| surfaces hold together OK for a while.
| dfc wrote:
| I think it's a good idea to always do surface prep before
| mixing epoxy (regardless of the working time).
| sabujp wrote:
| cgi-bin : What year is it?!
| Mistletoe wrote:
| Bookmarked forever, thank you!
| mdrzn wrote:
| Hug of death from HN?
| canadianfella wrote:
| mauvehaus wrote:
| A little surprised to see that the recommendation for wood to
| wood isn't the ubiquitous Titebond line of wood glues. I've never
| seen a bottle of Elmer's carpenter's glue in any shop I've ever
| set foot in.
|
| There are other adhesives used to glue wood together depending on
| the application (epoxy is big in the boat world AIUI), but for
| everyday wood gluing, Titebond is pretty much king in the US.
| tupshin wrote:
| From a brand popularity and professional use point of view, you
| are 100% correct. The various Titebond formulations are, I
| believe, the most widely used by carpenters in the US. However,
| all PVA glues are going to have extremely similar strength and
| overall properties, and they do have an excellent summary here:
|
| https://www.thistothat.com/glue/pva.shtml
|
| "Be wary of over priced PVAs that claim to be for a specific
| use. There is very little difference from one PVA to the other,
| and nothing that should increase the cost."
|
| Titebond does have range of products, well described here:
|
| https://thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/differences-between-ti...
|
| but Titebond original would be considered to be nearly
| identical to the Elmers that they recommend
| steve_adams_86 wrote:
| Titebond III creates bonds stronger than the hardest woods I
| use and they're even highly water resistant. It's also easy to
| apply, clean, store, etc.
|
| Maybe Elmer's is good but in 15+ years of gluing wood, I've
| never seen it recommended or used, either.
| DeathArrow wrote:
| And if you want to know whether the recommended glue is any good,
| watch a video from Project Farm
| https://www.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm/search?query=glue
| dfc wrote:
| I like his videos but adhesives are tough to test quickly.
| Strength over time is important for a lot of applications. It's
| also really strange that he used end grain glue joints when
| testing wood glues. No woodworker would use wood glue for that
| application.
| jakear wrote:
| Couldn't not surface this gem from their primary plastic to
| plastic recommendation:
|
| > If you live in the U.S. there is a different formula for Goop
| than in Canada. The Canadian formula contains perchloroethylene
| which is a known carcinogenic. The U.S. Goop formula contains
| toluene, which although is a dangerous solvent, it is not
| carcinogenic. It is however more flammable. Because the Canadian
| standards are quite rigid regarding flammables and explosive,
| Eclectic manufactures a formula for Canada, replacing the toluene
| with perchloroethylene. Apparently, the people who set these
| standards in Canada are more concerned with the dangers of fires
| than cancer!
|
| https://www.thistothat.com/glue/hgoop.shtml
|
| For what it's worth, my experience has proven "Lexel" solid.
| Strong enough to keep the top window panel on my roof top tent
| locked down across countless thousands of miles, and it sticks to
| wet surfaces. Meaning when you're caught lacking in a PNW
| rainstorm getting soaked in the middle of the night, you can
| apply the glue then and there to resolve the issue immediately.
|
| Of course you and your stuff will still be soaked. For that I
| recommend Mexico.
| akiselev wrote:
| Perchloroethylene is used by almost every dry cleaner in the
| United States.
| LeifCarrotson wrote:
| Who still uses a dry cleaner?
| optymizer wrote:
| I'm not spending time to wash, dry and iron 30 shirts. I'd
| rather pay $70 at the dry cleaners, once in a while. Now
| that cancerogenic substance is an interesting topic. I'll
| have to ask about it the next time I go there.
| ipaddr wrote:
| I'm sure they will be up on the science.
|
| Washing - drying 1 or 30 shirts is only one load. The
| time to pull out a board and iron 30 shirts is less than
| the time to load them up drive to a place and repeat when
| you pick them up.
| TheSpiceIsLife wrote:
| Should I do this before or after mowing the lawn, general
| home maintenance, vacuuming, cleaning, shopping, cooking,
| showering. Mending work clothes (metal fabrication
| workshop is hard on work clothes). What am I complaining
| about, I don't even have children.
|
| Or do you mind if I outsource some of these things
| occasionally?
| ipaddr wrote:
| No you can't do any of those things because you spent
| your time/energy at the drycleaner. Outsource only if it
| saves you time.
| noduerme wrote:
| Some people love ironing. My brother irons while he
| watches baseball. He says it's Zen for him. I myself hate
| ironing. I used to stop by his place with my shirts and
| he'd iron them for me.
|
| The best are those hanging steamer/dryer closets. Fancy
| stuff though.
| justinator wrote:
| Good thing we don't use toluene in dry cleaning then!
| simmonmt wrote:
| Went to Mexico. Tent is dry but I'm still soaked, now with a
| combination of rain and sweat. Please advise.
| jszymborski wrote:
| Lets not pretend that Toluene is without health concerns. It's
| a volatile organic solvent with health concerns.
|
| Toluene has a NFPA Hazard ID of: Health: 2 Flammability: 3
| Reactivity: 0
|
| Perchloroethylene has a NFPA Hazard ID of: HEALTH=3 FIRE=0
| REACTIVITY=0
|
| Either way these are nasty substances.
| Xeoncross wrote:
| Reminds me of the infant mattresses and car seats covered in
| carcinogenic flame retardants.
| 3guk wrote:
| I love simple sites like this - it's a shame that google seems to
| punish sites like this that contain information that is not often
| updated (because it does not need to be).
| rvense wrote:
| It's weird, right? A wordpress blog that wrapped each
| combination of materials in a separate five page article and
| republished them every week with slight changes would do
| better.
| blowski wrote:
| Within engineering, there is this weird dominant culture that
| fresher information is more likely to be accurate.
|
| Sometimes, that's right, because a lot of tech changes so
| quickly that a three year old article about is now hopelessly
| out of date since v5 deprecated v3 syntax.
|
| For a lot of other articles, I'd rather read an
| authoritative, well-written article that was published 40
| years ago. Nothing material has changed in the intervening
| period, so it doesn't matter.
|
| Google just doesn't seem to know when I value quality over
| freshness, so it defaults to the latter most of the time.
| swader999 wrote:
| Sheldon Brown's bike tuning comes to mind after reading
| your comment. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.html
| (look at that, an html page!!!)
| cjmcqueen wrote:
| It's a type of prisoners dilemma with Google. They're
| having to out game the SEO gamers and pick a tactic that
| moves the web forward and doesn't over reward entrenched
| parties. I agree this site gives good useful information,
| but what if new glues come out on the market? What if a
| YouTube channel comes out comparing and testing glues?
| Authority is great until it's out of date, so I think it's
| logical to go with a bias towards fresh content.
|
| I do wish there was more of a focus on attribution and
| citing sources on the web. Maybe Web3 will save us on that
| front...
| auveair wrote:
| > I agree this site gives good useful information, but
| what if new glues come out on the market? What if a
| YouTube channel comes out comparing and testing glues?
|
| All good questions, but shame that google answer to that
| is "surely a Wordpress blog called 2022-glue-boss.com
| made in the last year has all those answers!"
| 9dev wrote:
| Web3 will save nothing for any of us, but funnel money in
| the pockets of investors. That's all it is.
| Phrenzy wrote:
| I'm sure Web4 will solve that.
| lzaaz wrote:
| I can't believe that a website that is practically static goes
| down like this.
| NelsonMinar wrote:
| One of the original microsites, dating to 1999!
| anigbrowl wrote:
| I am pleased that this is about materials rather than
| microservices.
| layer8 wrote:
| Much easier than glueing microservices together.
| nxpnsv wrote:
| I first used that site in the 90s... amazing it is still there
| DeathArrow wrote:
| This is a so pre 2000 behaving website. They could turned the
| glue recommendation engine to a SaaS so you can pay mothly for
| glue related advices. And they have no heavy JS front-end, I mean
| it's 2022, right?
| ggm wrote:
| An absolutely brilliant idea. I frequently use the wrong glue. A
| little more info about what qualities each choice has would be
| interesting.
|
| Remembering to let glues which "cure" have stress free time, and
| glues which are "apply to each surface, wait, and then contact
| press" dog my attempts too.
| agotterer wrote:
| Thank you! One of the items on my todo list today was to find a
| glue suitable to attach plastic to glass. I've tried 4 different
| glues and non have held. Here's hoping!
| someweirdperson wrote:
| Try double-sided tape (there's many different kinds).
| Unfortunately, the site only recommends glues.
| canadianfella wrote:
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(page generated 2022-12-10 23:01 UTC)