[HN Gopher] Tips for Better Burgers (2010)
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       Tips for Better Burgers (2010)
        
       Author : Tomte
       Score  : 42 points
       Date   : 2022-08-05 09:56 UTC (13 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.seriouseats.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.seriouseats.com)
        
       | nemo44x wrote:
       | If you want a better burger then don't grill them. Unless you
       | want old-timey dad burgers. Which I do fairly often in the
       | summer. But I know it's inferior to many variety of smash burgers
       | sautes in butter and tallow.
        
       | bennysomething wrote:
       | Can anyone explain how rare burgers can possibly be safe? I've
       | always understood that bacteria that causes food poisoning lives
       | on the surface of a steak hence rare steak is no problem. Mincing
       | a steak would cause that bacteria to be through out the burger. I
       | was surprised when I was in the USA and I was asked how I want my
       | burger done. I love a rare steak but would never consider a rare
       | burger. Maybe I'm wrong about the bacteria thing?
        
         | snoopy_telex wrote:
         | Do you eat tartare? It's not totally safe, but it's often low
         | risk enough that people go for it.
         | 
         | I generally get med-rare burgers from places that ground their
         | own meats recently, so streak houses that ground the steak
         | trimmings from yesterday that morning. Else I'll order medium
         | and not risk it, but everyone's risk profile is different.
        
         | elbigbad wrote:
         | You're not wrong, but its the difference between restaurant
         | rare and home rare. Restaurant rare typically comes from a
         | giant pile of meat, many pounds mixed into a large recipe and
         | then divvied out into patties to be cooked to order. This gives
         | a significantly higher chance of getting bad bacteria, though
         | still not particularly high chances from any given batch.
         | 
         | Cooking at home one is typically using a significantly smaller
         | amount of ground beef from a smaller batch, so lower chances
         | overall of some bacteria from one package of beef being
         | distributed across a large number of burgers.
         | 
         | Additionally most bacteria that gets onto food prepared in
         | reasonably clean environments doesn't do much more than cause
         | an upset stomach.
         | 
         | There's liability at restaurants on the above for the reasons
         | you mentioned, where those same liabilities don't exist for
         | steaks as highly. At home, all bets are off on liability from
         | being undercooked.
         | 
         | Still though I wouldn't eat rare burgers at home.
        
           | googlryas wrote:
           | Isn't that only true if you ground your own beef? I assume
           | supermarket ground beef is ground in batches of hundreds of
           | lbs
        
             | SoftTalker wrote:
             | It is, but they are probably more careful about cleaning
             | the equipment than the typical restaurant.
             | 
             | When I'm at my supermarket meat counter near closing time,
             | they are washing everything -- equipment, countertops,
             | walls, floors with hot soapy water, brushes, and a hose.
             | Everything goes down the floor drain.
             | 
             | When I worked in restaurants, equipment was mostly cleaned
             | with rags and a bucket.
        
               | marak830 wrote:
               | More food poisoning occurs at home, than at restaurants.
               | 
               | I don't know what 'restaurant' you were at that used rags
               | and buckets, but it certainly would have failed health
               | and safety regulations.
               | 
               | Source, 15 years as a chef.
        
         | advisedwang wrote:
         | IT's not 100% safe. Neither are oysters [1] or soft-boiled eggs
         | [2]. But if you have it once in a while and no other health
         | factors it might well be worth the risk.
         | 
         | [1] https://www.cdc.gov/vibrio/vibrio-oysters.html
         | 
         | [2] https://www.cdc.gov/foodsafety/communication/salmonella-
         | and-...
        
         | Kaibeezy wrote:
         | How about if you sear a large cut of beef to kill the surface
         | bacteria, then immediately slice off (with a sterilized knife)
         | and grind (with a sterilized grinder) enough for tartare or a
         | rare burger? I'd eat that! Do any restaurants do that?
        
           | [deleted]
        
         | adrianmonk wrote:
         | I don't know if restaurants use it, but irradiated ground beef
         | is a thing[1]. It has been offered by Wegman's supermarkets[2]
         | and Omaha Steaks[3].
         | 
         | Omaha Steaks says they use it (only) for ground beef because,
         | "Unlike solid cuts of meat, the potential exists that surface
         | bacteria may have been mixed within ground beef."
         | 
         | Wegmans has a cooking temperature page[4] that gives lower
         | temperatures for irradiated ground beef than for regular ground
         | beef.
         | 
         | So that's one way safe + rare is possible.
         | 
         | Another way is sous vide. It's a "low and slow" cooking
         | technique, and germ-killing is a function of both time and
         | temperature[5], so it can achieve safe + rare. It's definitely
         | more trouble to cook your burgers for 1-2 hours, though.
         | 
         | ---
         | 
         | [1] https://ccr.ucdavis.edu/food-irradiation/are-irradiated-
         | food...
         | 
         | [2] https://www.supermarketnews.com/archive/wegmans-offers-
         | own-i...
         | 
         | [3] https://www.omahasteaks.com/servlet/OnlineShopping?Dsp=5707
         | 
         | [4] https://www.wegmans.com/final-cook-to-temperature-charts/
         | 
         | [5] https://douglasbaldwin.com/sous-vide.html#Safety
        
       | [deleted]
        
         | dwringer wrote:
         | Ha, I fully appreciate never going past medium on a fine cut of
         | steak but most hamburger meat I encounter is a far cry from
         | being a fine cut. At most restaurants around here when I order
         | a burger that rare I end up regretting it.
        
           | Kaibeezy wrote:
           | I thought the issue with rare/cooked-through burgers is that
           | grinding distributes surface bacteria throughout the mass and
           | it all needs to get hot enough, whereas on primal and sub-
           | primal cuts you're safely cooking the bacteria that's on the
           | surfaces.
        
       | smm11 wrote:
       | I eat a pound of ground whatever three or four times a week, be
       | it elk, wild boar, venison, and sometimes 'burger.'
       | 
       | Always ground. I can incorporate other things to make it be
       | whatever I want, and there's no issue with rare-not rare.
       | Outright burgers aren't worth the hassle to me. Anyway, I
       | couldn't eat a 1 pound burger most days, but have no issue with
       | ground for some reason.
        
       | imstate wrote:
       | You definitely don't want to flip a burger multiple times. There
       | is a drastic difference in quality. They advocate it cooks the
       | middle more, but the real trick is to move the burger to the side
       | of grill that is off and close the lid to cook it like an oven.
       | 
       | It's a rule in many kitchens I've been in to only flip once,
       | because you don't want to lose the juices from the fat.
        
         | tashoecraft wrote:
         | It's really comically how many people here, including yourself,
         | are just assuming they know more than then author. Kenji has
         | done numerous studies debunking this and has dug into every
         | single part of the burger making process and so much more to
         | come up with these steps.
         | 
         | Flipping your burger less doesn't help. Yes, the salt level is
         | correct. Yes, putting the grinder in the freezer is a good
         | idea. Stop assuming you know more than experts without
         | conducting studies your self, you arrogant people.
        
           | fknorangesite wrote:
           | > It's really comically how many people here, including
           | yourself, are just assuming they know more than then author.
           | 
           | Surely not _here_ - on _Hacker News_? I 'm shocked! Shocked!
        
         | Tomte wrote:
         | Kenji has done lots of testing about this, and his result was:
         | flipping doesn't matter. I tend to trust him over old kitchen
         | myths, although I cannot prove he's right.
        
           | antisthenes wrote:
           | It also doesn't matter because you're usually eating a burger
           | with some kind of condiment or side.
           | 
           | Whether it's a mushroom/egg/tomato, coleslaw on the side,
           | ketchup, tzatziki (lamb burger) or something else, most
           | burgers will have juices enough to not make them dry.
           | 
           | You also might not want to eat 100% of the rendered fat from
           | a burger. Some fat is good, but it's still a very high-
           | calorie substance.
        
         | luckydata wrote:
         | this is just an old tale, testing shows it doesn't matter
        
         | snoopy_telex wrote:
         | So they dug into the science a fair bit in
         | https://www.seriouseats.com/the-burger-lab-how-many-times-sh...
         | and concluded it really doesn't impact the quality at all.
         | 
         | Is there something specific that you feel they failed to do
         | correctly in their process?
        
       | flint wrote:
       | Kenji Lopez-Alt has a great YouTube cooking channel.
        
         | SeanLuke wrote:
         | Yes and no. Yes, he does a great run-though of a variety of
         | dishes. No, in that he has the camera affixed to his head or
         | hand and bouncing around and the result is highly vertigo-
         | inducing. Is the informative nature of a food channel worth the
         | intense nausea caused from watching it?
        
           | bvisness wrote:
           | I love the POV style, especially paired with the lack of
           | cuts. Gives me a better sense of everything he's doing in the
           | kitchen - when else would you see how he keeps his fridge or
           | spice cabinet organized?
        
         | tpmx wrote:
         | In that odd food  politics genre. I'm a centrist by US
         | standards, but he pushed my buttons hard enough to unsub after
         | a year.
        
           | aerostable_slug wrote:
           | When he refused to call kaffir lime by its widely accepted
           | name because it might potentially offend someone, I had about
           | enough. What silliness, especially when the etymology of the
           | term remains undecided.
           | 
           | Are we also going to stop called puttanesca dishes by their
           | name because sex workers might be offended because it
           | includes a profane term? Can we finally say _enough_ to the
           | constant quest for purity typified by a food critic penning a
           | column on what words she won 't use?[0] She won't even write
           | "guilty" because that might trigger someone, even though I
           | think nearly anyone would agree that an Animal Style 3x3 from
           | In-N-Out is indeed a guilty pleasure.
           | 
           | I just want to cook and eat good food, not play these kinds
           | of nonsense games that cater to a certain rather noisy (and
           | politically homogeneous) audience.
           | 
           | [0]: "The trouble comes from the fact that the word is a
           | cognate for a slur used by white colonists to refer to Black
           | Africans in South Africa. Though the spirit of the word
           | likely has very little to do with the latter context, my
           | reasoning is the same as the reason why you're never going to
           | catch me casually saying or writing the word "niggardly.""
           | https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Words-you-
           | ll...
        
             | [deleted]
        
           | throw7 wrote:
           | I don't mind politics, but I couldn't take it. The guy
           | clearly knows the answer to everything.
        
       | throwaway0a5e wrote:
       | There's basically two tips here. The first is to throw money at
       | the problem, nice beef, nice bun, etc, etc and the second is to
       | actually season your burger.
       | 
       | Cooking a burger isn't rocket science. All the typical tips and
       | tricks that you'd apply to most other beef dishes apply to it.
       | But slaving over a fucking burger kinda defeats the point. It's a
       | dish that's very tolerant of loose cooking procedure and you'd be
       | a fool to not take advantage of that.
       | 
       | If your burgers aren't coming out how you want try cooking them
       | slower or making them much thinner.
        
         | fknorangesite wrote:
         | > But slaving over a fucking burger kinda defeats the point.
         | 
         | I enjoy putting effort into my food. Not _always every time_ ,
         | but when I want to, I want to know how.
         | 
         | I'm not sure why you would denigrate that.
        
         | mason55 wrote:
         | > _But slaving over a fucking burger kinda defeats the point.
         | It 's a dish that's very tolerant of loose cooking procedure
         | and you'd be a fool to not take advantage of that._
         | 
         | Sure but that doesn't mean that it's not worth talking about
         | complete optimization. If you know the absolute best technique
         | then you can decide which parts are worth the extra time for
         | you. Or sometimes you feel like a burger and you have a lot of
         | time, so it's worth knowing the optimal way to do it all.
         | 
         | I think of it more like... a bad burger is still good, but that
         | doesn't mean it can't be better.
        
         | richiebful1 wrote:
         | I grew up eating meatloaf style burgers with a bunch of stuff -
         | onions, mustard and seasoning - stirred through the ground
         | beef. Learning to just season the outside was a game changer. I
         | never really cared for homemade burgers before then. But that
         | tip makes the burgers less effort not more.
        
       | yuy910616 wrote:
       | I remember watching the new Top Gun and thinking it is basically
       | a burger: there is the craft (making movies or making food), but
       | sometimes, craft matters very little and it's more not messing up
       | the ingredients (beef and jets).
       | 
       | Overall, 10/10 American.
        
       | snarfy wrote:
       | How are you supposed to bite that burger in the picture without
       | unhinging your jaw?
       | 
       | Big burgers should be wider, not taller.
        
         | throwaway287391 wrote:
         | Yes. I've totally bought into the smash burgers meme and
         | they've never let me down once. I'm also a pretty terrible cook
         | and don't follow the instructions too closely (e.g. I smash
         | them before putting them into the frying pan since I don't have
         | a big/flat enough pan). Delicious every time.
        
         | tomjakubowski wrote:
         | A hamburger sandwich is vertically compressible - you press it
         | to fit using your hands.
        
           | rahimnathwani wrote:
           | But then the bread is no longer airy.
        
         | fknorangesite wrote:
         | It turns out there are different styles of burger. Who knew,
         | right? And surprise they picked the photogenic one for the
         | banner.
         | 
         | Here's the beauty of reading an article on cooking, and
         | subsequently of cooking for yourself: you can take what you
         | learned and then make your burger however you like. And how you
         | like your burger might not be how someone else likes theirs.
        
         | savoytruffle wrote:
         | I agree! I was recently musing with a relative that the short-
         | lived large-single-patty Big Mac a couple years ago was more
         | appealing to me than the typical version. She mentioned reading
         | that it may be coming back?
         | 
         | But at that point maybe just get a Whopper from Burger King, or
         | almost anything else.
        
         | OJFord wrote:
         | You can recover a mm or two by removing that grim plastic non-
         | cheese, for a start.
        
           | tekla wrote:
           | American Cheese is normal cheese.
           | 
           | All cheeses are polymers though, so I guess it is somewhat
           | accurate to call all cheese plastic
        
           | fknorangesite wrote:
           | I'm not American, but even I know American Cheese is
           | perfectly normal cheese.
           | 
           | It's not, like, a Kraft(tm) Single(tm) or whatever.
        
           | aj7 wrote:
           | No that's the best part.
        
       | MisterBastahrd wrote:
       | If you are cooking your burger in a skillet or a flat top, you
       | want a 70/30 ratio, not 80/20. A 70/30 ratio increases the fat
       | content enough that the grease released from the burger will
       | essentially fry the burger in its own fat instead of steaming it
       | in the pan.
       | 
       | I also do not fully agree with their idea of not salting the meat
       | at all before forming the patties. I do not want a hamburger with
       | the consistency of meat loaf. I want a bite to it. It's a burger,
       | not a steak. The meat matters, but the bun and condiments matter
       | just as much.
        
       | amdelamar wrote:
       | The amount of salt in photo #6 is too much salt. Its very easy to
       | over-salt anything and ruin it. Better to under-salt until you
       | gain enough experience with judging how much you actually need.
       | 
       | As for putting the meat grinder in the freezer, I'd like to know
       | if restaurants do that or not. Because I highly doubt it. Seems
       | very silly.
        
         | fknorangesite wrote:
         | > Seems very silly.
         | 
         | It is not, for all the reasons listed. You get much better
         | texture when everything is cold, because you are actually
         | grinding/cutting the meat, rather than squeezing and smearing
         | it.
        
         | julianlam wrote:
         | Why not? If anything, it's less impractical, if only because
         | restaurants usually have large walk-in freezers.
        
         | MisterBastahrd wrote:
         | > The amount of salt in photo #6 is too much salt.
         | 
         | Except that's not true. It's perfectly seasoned. Whenever you
         | cook meat, especially if you're grilling it, you need to season
         | well because half of your seasoning isn't going to remain on
         | the meat.
        
           | antisthenes wrote:
           | That is:
           | 
           | 1. Only true if there's copious amounts of oil to absorb the
           | seasoning. Otherwise it might get absorbed by the rendered
           | fat of the burger. Sometimes 50% or more of it gets lost,
           | sometimes less.
           | 
           | 2. It is better to underseason than overseason. If you
           | overseason, you end up with an inedible salt mess. If you
           | underseason, all it takes is a quick sprinkle before you eat
           | it.
           | 
           | That being said, I think the picture in #6 looks perfectly
           | fine. I'd use a dash more of pepper though.
        
             | MisterBastahrd wrote:
             | I honestly don't understand seasoning a burger with pepper
             | before grilling. By the time you're done, most of the
             | flavor has been obliterated by the heat.
        
         | [deleted]
        
         | zbentley wrote:
         | Just one anecdotal data point, but when I worked in a kitchen a
         | very long time ago we would wheel the meat grinder and it's
         | attached table into the walk-in in between uses, after
         | cleaning. We only used it a few times a day so this was no
         | great chore.
        
         | matthewmacleod wrote:
         | I'd argue that is quite under-salted - in my experience, beef
         | in particular needs more salt than you'd perhaps expect!
         | 
         | I'd lose the pepper though. Each to their own, but I find that
         | peppering just results in a burger that tastes of burned
         | pepper.
        
         | bvisness wrote:
         | In a video on Kenji's YouTube channel, he and his sous chef at
         | Wursthall went through their sausage-making process, and they
         | talked about how when they grind meat for sausages, they make
         | sure the grinder parts and plates are in the freezer for at
         | least an hour before grinding. (The video is entitled "Let Me
         | Show You Erik's Sausage Room", at about 7:45.)
        
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