[HN Gopher] The frenzied world of rare watches
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       The frenzied world of rare watches
        
       Author : adam
       Score  : 46 points
       Date   : 2022-04-26 16:47 UTC (6 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.vanityfair.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.vanityfair.com)
        
       | UmYeahNo wrote:
       | I've been a fan of budget Seiko mechanical watches from the 60's
       | and 70's. Most of the time they run well, servicing isn't
       | terribly expensive, and you can get them for usually a few
       | hundred dollars, maybe a grand for a really nice specimen. What's
       | cool about them is you can decipher the serial number [0] to the
       | month and year they were made, so they can commemorate an event,
       | even if it happened a long time ago. But you do have to watch out
       | for counterfeits. [1]
       | 
       | [0] https://retroseiko.com/seiko-serial.htm [1]
       | https://www.watchesguild.com/articles/Fake-Seiko-Watch
       | 
       | Edited to fix grammar
        
         | jacquesm wrote:
         | I have one of these, a '5' and it still keeps time just fine
         | after many years. It's a completely mechanical watch, no
         | batteries to replace and no frills. It will likely outlive me.
        
           | aidenn0 wrote:
           | I have a "5" that went through two bracelets before dying. At
           | the time Seiko wanted a flat rate ($149 or $199?) to repair.
           | I got a new kinetic for less than that, and I don't have to
           | set the time weekly.
        
           | UmYeahNo wrote:
           | Seiko 5's are great, rock solid, last forever. My dad handed
           | down his Seiko 5 to me, it was a 1982 model, that still runs
           | like a champ. Take that Apple Watch we'll see if you're still
           | running in 2062.
        
             | Nextgrid wrote:
             | > Take that Apple Watch we'll see if you're still running
             | in 2062.
             | 
             | To be fair, smart watches would likely last that long if it
             | wasn't for planned obsolescence (via software "updates"),
             | anti-repair practices (such as impossibility to disassemble
             | them and source genuine parts) and vendor lock-in.
        
             | smcl wrote:
             | I bought a new Seiko 5 that gradually started running
             | faster to the extent that after a couple of years it's now
             | couple of seconds fast every minute. So after a day or so
             | it's pretty far off the actual time. I have an Apple Watch
             | now which is very nice for doing sports or sneakily firing
             | off messages during meetings, but when I got the Seiko I
             | was determined that if it held firm I would use it as long
             | as required. Maybe I should get it serviced, it could be a
             | very easy fix but I felt really let down.
             | 
             | So yeah, seems a little bit YMMV. The Apple Watch has its
             | drawbacks and definitely has a finite lifespan with little
             | hope of repair in the event of a failure, but it doesn't
             | let me down in the one thing a watch is supposed to do.
        
               | adamomada wrote:
               | This sounds a lot like the watch has been magnetized.
               | First thing to try is degaussing it
        
               | Nextgrid wrote:
               | If you're into watches there are good channels on YouTube
               | that explain watch repair such as the Watch Repair
               | Channel or Wristwatch Revival.
        
               | jacquesm wrote:
               | You can just take it into a shop and have it regulated,
               | won't take more than a few minutes and it will be good as
               | new again.
        
               | smcl wrote:
               | I'll give it a go
        
         | ilamont wrote:
         | I am a fan of another Japanese watch brand, Citizen,
         | particularly the Eco-Drive models. Solar powered, very durable,
         | and they look great. Prices range from $100 for basic models to
         | over $3000 for the Hakuto-R (there is some connection to the
         | Japanese lunar mission,
         | https://www.citizenwatch.com/us/en/product/CC4016-75E.html).
         | Most Citizen watches are water resistant as well.
         | 
         | I've had one model running continuously for 12 years. I love
         | never having to charge it or change the battery.
        
           | helij wrote:
           | After a search for a perfect watch buying and then selling
           | anything from very cheap to very expensive I ended up with a
           | solar G-Shock square with radio timekeeping. Indestructible,
           | always on and always accurate. The perfect watch.
        
             | Terry_Roll wrote:
             | I do love a G-Shock, had a few but I do break them, straps
             | usually break but the casing gets scuffed and damaged from
             | time to time, however they are the closest I've found to be
             | indestructible which is why I keep getting them, havent
             | found anything better.
        
           | Nition wrote:
           | Seconding this. Eco-Drive is great. Keeps accurate time,
           | never needs a battery change or winding. Prices are
           | reasonable, and they come in lots of different styles.
        
       | cletus wrote:
       | So I really like mechanical watches but I've kind of lost
       | interest because it's nigh-on impossible to buy anything new
       | (unless you're a high net worth individual) and the secondary
       | market is utterly insane.
       | 
       | Example: Rolex Daytona in steel retails for ~$13,000. You can buy
       | that from the store and immediately sell it on the secondary
       | market for $30,000+. The Patel Phillippe Nautilus 5711A is
       | similar ($25-30,000 retail, $75,000+ secondary).
       | 
       | As it happens when the current Rolex Daytona came out a few years
       | ago the market wasn't anywhere near as hot and the market was
       | flooded with people flipping the old model for the new. I
       | happened to buy one of the old Daytonas for $10,000. Last time I
       | checked it sells on the secondary market for $35,000. It's nuts.
       | 
       | For anyone who is interested in this, the plae I would start is
       | with only these two brands: Rolex (first) and Patel Phillippe
       | (second). They completely dominate any sort of demand and have a
       | healthy secondary market. With vintage watches you get into all
       | sorts of weird preferences that make massive differences in value
       | and some of those details can be pretty minor (eg rail dials
       | [1]). Some go for astronomical prices, most notably the Paul
       | Newman Daytonas [2], which are funny because when they were
       | production watches they typically sat on shelves for years
       | because no one wanted them.
       | 
       | It's a fascinating world because what you discover is that Rolex
       | are absolute masters of brand management. Like they are
       | absolutely second to none. Omega, for example, produces some high
       | quality watches, sometimes much better than the Rolex equivalent
       | from a pure utility POV (eg Planet Ocean over DSSD). But Omega
       | produces too many watches and too many models. Rolex quite
       | famously has very limited product lines, which is fantastic for a
       | secondary market. Rolex watches really are almost as liquid as
       | cash.
       | 
       | The other interesting thing is you get into the pedigree and
       | history of each of these watches. For example, GMT watches came
       | about in the 1960s to solve a need as pilots started crossing
       | time zones. The Daytona was for race car drivers. Submariners
       | were (and are) for divers. Sure they'r emore of a fashion item
       | now but the history is fascinating.
       | 
       | [1]: https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/rolex-
       | rail-...
       | 
       | [2]: https://www.bobswatches.com/paul-newman-rolex-daytona
        
         | NikolaNovak wrote:
         | >>So I really like mechanical watches but I've kind of lost
         | interest because it's nigh-on impossible to buy anything new
         | (unless you're a high net worth individual)
         | 
         | As a sanity/reality check, I think we really really need to
         | distinguish "Mechanical Watch" (which can be gotten for as low
         | as $25USD for a crappy cheap but functional and self-winding
         | mechanical piece), and "Rolex" :->
        
           | maigret wrote:
           | Indeed, many companies serve all kinds of budgets. There is
           | interesting stuff at all prices.
        
         | adamdusty wrote:
         | Bulova has dozens of amazing automatic pieces on their site for
         | under $1000, many under $500.
        
         | ilamont wrote:
         | _Some go for astronomical prices, most notably the Paul Newman
         | Daytonas [2], which are funny because when they were production
         | watches they typically sat on shelves for years because no one
         | wanted them._
         | 
         | There was an episode of Antiques Roadshow where someone brought
         | in one of these in new condition. I think the story was he had
         | purchased it at the military Px in the late 60s and then it
         | ended up in safe deposit box for many decades. When the auction
         | expert told him it was worth $400k he literally fell down in
         | shock.
         | 
         | ETA: $500k. He bought it in the early 70s.
         | https://www.usatoday.com/story/entertainment/tv/2020/01/29/a...
        
       | blakesterz wrote:
       | I guess it's like any other collectable, just way WAY more
       | expensive. Though I'm not sure what's lost by wearing it?
       | "Such market conditions have presented a dilemma for collectors
       | who actually want to show off their popular models, knowing the
       | message that will send to other connoisseurs. "If you wear them,
       | you're an idiot, " says one collector. "Either you paid five
       | times retail, or you bought it retail and you're too stupid to
       | have flipped it.""
        
         | blantonl wrote:
         | "too stupid to have flipped it"
         | 
         | What a time to be alive when you're called stupid for not being
         | a greedy "playa" flipper.
         | 
         | Maybe some folks who waited on a waiting list for a couple
         | years want to wear a watch they purchased in good health?
        
         | Aea wrote:
         | You're risking damage, you're risking theft, you're paying
         | higher insurance premiums in either case, etc, etc.
        
           | rosndo wrote:
           | Damage isn't a huge problem, watches tend to be pretty sturdy
           | and mere scratches aren't going to hurt resale value in most
           | cases (unless you have them repaired!)
           | 
           | Theft on the other hand is a pretty big concern, I just had a
           | 100k patek ripped off my wrist. I'm very lucky though, the
           | local store manager was sympathetic and managed to help me
           | skip the queue for a (slightly more desirable) replacement,
           | effectively nullifying any financial damage.
           | 
           | Lesson learned, not walking around with uninsured watches no
           | matter how nice the area is. Insurance premiums aren't too
           | bad though.
        
             | Aea wrote:
             | Insurance on a $100K watch through Hodinkee is around $1400
             | a year, although I'm sure you can get a better deal.
             | 
             | If you're an enthusiast then you're paying for peace of
             | mind. If you're an investor then that's the equivalent of a
             | 1.4% management fee per year.
             | 
             | The price action right now is absolutely ridiculous, but if
             | you already bought at say 5x retail then that dramatically
             | eats into your potential profits. It's just not worth it,
             | you shove it into a safe and never let it see the light of
             | day.
        
             | usmannk wrote:
             | > effectively nullifying any financial damage.
             | 
             | Aren't you out the 100k?
        
               | solveit wrote:
               | They went on to buy a 130k market value watch for 30k
               | (retail) or something
        
               | usmannk wrote:
               | Ah I see, I misread the 100k as retail (for both).
        
         | prova_modena wrote:
         | Again like you said, the reason not to wear is nothing specific
         | to watches. At the high end of collectibles markets, condition
         | grading is extremely fine and detailed. A knowledgeable person
         | can see the difference between something that has never left
         | the box and something that was used/worn once. Additionally,
         | there's often a substantial value difference between a #1
         | condition item and a #2 condition item. As the participants in
         | any collector market become more sophisticated, condition
         | difference between individual items becomes both more legible
         | (as grading methods are created) and has a greater effect on
         | value (as the market expands).
         | 
         | There's also a sort of status game being described in the part
         | you quoted. Self-identified collectors/dealers intentionally
         | don't wear their collection in order to signal their
         | understanding of the watches' value and therefore their own
         | knowledge as connoisseurs.
        
         | waynesonfire wrote:
         | Oh, and let me guess, the collector would happily take the
         | watch off their hands? Who's the idiot?
        
       | overtonwhy wrote:
       | Ultra wealthy people obsessed with fancy jewelry while 12% of the
       | world doesn't have electricity at home. Sad. Please put your
       | resources to work doing something beneficial for society. Maybe
       | this film scene can move your heart: https://youtu.be/W9vj2Wf57rQ
       | 
       | How many lives could that watch have saved?
        
       | pmoriarty wrote:
       | I wonder how many of these are counterfeit.
        
         | bri3d wrote:
         | I think that amongst the "high end," counterfeits are probably
         | not that common. Dealers tend to have a reputation to maintain
         | and even the best clones are easily distinguishable once the
         | case-back is opened up and the movement inspected.
         | 
         | There are a few rare Rolex models with "1:1" clones which can
         | have an authentic movement installed. There may be some "high
         | profile" counterfeits of these pieces floating around, but it's
         | hard to say.
         | 
         | I think that in the mid-market, counterfeits are probably more
         | common than we would hope. Modern Rolex and especially Panerai
         | clones are quite good, far from the Canal Street "folex" type
         | watches of old. I bet that a large number of Panerai watches
         | seen worn are fake. Panerai have an especially major problem
         | with this because for years, they used commodity movements from
         | ETA, sometimes lightly decorated (although sometimes not - see
         | the "Brooklyn Bridge" Panerai scandal), rather than proprietary
         | movements like Rolex. So movements were widely cloned, and for
         | an even more accurate copy, one could engrave an authentic ETA
         | movement with the Panerai finish and have an extremely
         | difficult fake.
         | 
         | This hobby is surprisingly open and very interesting - you can
         | find forums like Replica Watch Info or /r/RepTime and learn in
         | great detail the specific, minute differences between each
         | replica factory's attempt at a counterfeit vs. the original.
        
           | grog454 wrote:
           | > learn in great detail the specific, minute differences
           | between each replica factory's attempt at a counterfeit vs.
           | the original.
           | 
           | Can you provide some links to examples?
        
             | Bud wrote:
             | Google for "fake Rolex detection" and there's a lot of
             | quality content on the first page of hits.
             | 
             | This page seems to have some especially nice tips:
             | 
             | https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/the-top-
             | wa...
        
             | bri3d wrote:
             | The RWI Panerai forums have particularly, sometimes
             | ridiculously, detailed breakdowns in general:
             | 
             | https://forum.replica-
             | watch.info/forum/panerai/9692510-somet...
             | 
             | RepTime also have good movement breakdowns a lot of the
             | time, this one with a focus on practicality of Rolex clone
             | movements rather than gen vs rep: https://www.reddit.com/r/
             | RepTime/comments/p7omhv/rolex_repli...
        
       | Alex3917 wrote:
       | Watches are a good example of the fact that, past a certain
       | point, the only thing you can really do with money is paying
       | other people to do your hobbies for you. Like you could learn how
       | to make mechanical watches yourself, but wait, no, why not pay
       | someone else to take up that hobby for you.
       | 
       | At the same time, if you actually like doing your own hobbies
       | then money loses its utility pretty quickly.
        
         | havelhovel wrote:
         | Like many things in the present day, a mechanical watch of the
         | quality or provenance being discussed in this article is not
         | something that can be built in one's spare time as a hobby,
         | which means consumption is the only option for some truly
         | interesting wrist baubles. And even though I refuse to call
         | watch collecting a hobby, doing so doesn't preclude one from
         | having other hobbies or interests where one may take on a more
         | active role. The reality is some people can afford to have nice
         | (or stupid) things while also having balanced fulfilling lives.
        
         | kop316 wrote:
         | After skimming through a large portion of George Daniel's book
         | "Watchmaking", if anything, I very much appreciate how
         | complicated making a mechanical watch is, and even more so, how
         | easy it is to get things wrong. From what I saw, you have to
         | have a lot of tooks to make your own mechanical watch, and it
         | would not be something I would want to do without someone
         | skilled in the craft.
         | 
         | That is a long way of saying, I am confused on how making a
         | mechanical watch is a "hobby"?
        
           | Alex3917 wrote:
           | > it would not be something I would want to do without
           | someone skilled in the craft.
           | 
           | I mean how is that different than any other hobby? I've never
           | made a watch but I forage for mushrooms, and you wouldn't
           | want to do that without being skilled in the craft either.
           | It's pretty much the same for any hobby; the whole point of
           | having a hobby is to become skilled at some esoteric thing.
        
             | kop316 wrote:
             | I would assume one could become skilled at mushroom
             | foraging much, much faster and with much, much less tooling
             | than creating a watch movement.
        
         | nightski wrote:
         | In my experience hobbies are typically far more expensive than
         | paying someone else to do it purely due to economies of scale.
        
           | random314 wrote:
           | Not for veblen goods
        
             | Nextgrid wrote:
             | But the value of Veblen goods is based on paying for the
             | real thing. If you build yourself a Rolex equivalent as
             | part of your hobby it still won't be valued as a "proper"
             | Rolex even if it was just as good quality-wise.
        
               | [deleted]
        
         | throw8383833jj wrote:
         | I'm a newbie on this subject. can you really make your own
         | watch? don't you need to buy all the pieces for it? or need a
         | blacksmith shop or something? how much would it cost for
         | someone to build a watch from scratch with no workshop or prior
         | pieces on hand?
        
           | solveit wrote:
           | What people call watchmaking is actually usually watch
           | assembling/repairing. As you say, you would need to be a good
           | part of an entire supply chain to be able to make a watch in
           | any real sense.
        
             | kop316 wrote:
             | If you are curious on actually making a watch movement, I
             | recommend looking at George Daniel's book "Watchmaking". It
             | is a very well put together book, but is also very
             | technical.
        
       | tempnow987 wrote:
       | I'm a big fan of timex analog watches (not mechanical) for what
       | its worth. They are much much less expensive than any of these
       | here.
        
         | adamomada wrote:
         | You just reminded me, the other day I learned that Bill Gates,
         | a man who could presumably have any watch in the world he
         | wanted, has (or had recently) a $50 quartz diver made by Casio
         | on his wrist. It's actually a pretty nice-looking watch, too
         | (Casio Duro)
        
       | RichardHeart wrote:
       | I've got $8M of watches. Their utility to me is just to brag
       | about them. Which is funny, because I'm only met with downvotes
       | whenever I do :). But therein lies the rub. At a distance, people
       | hate, but up close, they love. It's a perceived distance to
       | cooperation. There's ingroup profit in hate at a distance. But
       | when you can join a better in group, or add a new asset to the
       | one you're in, it turns to love. Thus, I consider collectibles of
       | all forms, a combination of social value plus a dash of scarcity
       | mindset. Also, I believe the top is in, and watch values will go
       | down along side equities with rising interest rates.
        
         | mynameishere wrote:
         | That's nice. I've got $8M of baseball cards. Says right here in
         | this book.
        
         | zmgsabst wrote:
         | "I have two retirements worth of watches" is obviously the kind
         | of bragging that puts people off.
         | 
         | It's purely a show of higher social status which reminds them
         | of suffering in their own life -- and how they will be unable
         | to retire no matter how hard they work. You're making a
         | triviality of their entire struggle in life.
         | 
         | That kind of garish wealth display has led to the downfall and
         | deaths of many aristocrats throughout history.
        
       | randomhodler84 wrote:
       | What is the allure of these things? They keep worse time that an
       | ntp synced phone, have no internet connectivity and few features.
       | 
       | It's all conspicuous consumption, right? If you know, you know --
       | a way to signal wealth without being too brazen.
        
         | maigret wrote:
         | Did you never want something because it's nice and inspiring? A
         | sports car, a big Lego, a cap of your sport hero, a computer
         | full of LED? Did you want this only to impress others? Have you
         | had such a watch on your wrist and felt how it wore? Once you
         | start learning about how those are built etc this becomes a
         | small hobby that's very nice to enjoy in all the trouble
         | nowadays. Of course some wealthy people will buy those just
         | because they can afford them, but those are not the collector
         | enthusiasts who built the watch culture that allowed those
         | brands to grow to where they are now.
         | 
         | Watch enthusiasts will say all tech is conspicuous consumption
         | because it lasts so little and loses value very quick. There is
         | little more sustainable than a Rolex that still wears nice
         | after 50 years, and can probably hold 100 if taken care of.
        
           | randomhodler84 wrote:
           | No, none of those things. And I have absolutely no interest
           | in impressing others. I own basically nothing except 256-bit
           | numbers. Never owned a watch.
           | 
           | If you saw me IRL you would think I am a bum. It's much
           | better that way to hide in plane sight.
           | 
           | I agree that a lot of tech is conspicuous consumption --
           | phones are classic example. I hadn't considered the longevity
           | of the devices. This does increase their value.
        
             | Guest19023892 wrote:
             | Why do you assume all of these things only exist to impress
             | others? There's a lot to appreciate in the design and
             | craftsmanship of a well made product, its impact on
             | culture, or its significance in history. Or maybe the
             | object simply puts a smile on your face when you see it or
             | touch it. That new phone could make someones work day more
             | efficient. That diamond necklace could be a gift from their
             | loved one and a reminder of the times they shared together
             | when they look in the mirror. It seems a bit shortsighted
             | to suggest that expensive things only exist to impress
             | others.
        
         | throw8383833jj wrote:
         | and i'm surprised people still want to signal wealth, this day
         | and age. I would imagine you'd be treated worse by the average
         | person, if you're signaling wealth.
        
           | adamdusty wrote:
           | Only if you live entirely on the internet.
           | 
           | I've never met anyone in real life that actually hates people
           | with money.
        
           | TigeriusKirk wrote:
           | >I would imagine you'd be treated worse by the average
           | person, if you're signaling wealth.
           | 
           | This runs completely counter to my personal experiences and
           | observations.
        
         | smackeyacky wrote:
         | Mechanical watches are fun. You can buy something like an
         | Invicta with a display back for $100 and see the moving parts
         | as it runs. Sure you have to adjust the time, wind it etc. But
         | that is part of the charm. Like a chunky, pre digital reminder
         | of the past.
        
           | randomhodler84 wrote:
           | $100 is fine, I've spent more on beer in a night. I can see
           | the charm in a $100 toy you wear on your wrist for fun. Thank
           | you for your perspective.
        
         | kop316 wrote:
         | >What is the allure of these things?
         | 
         | I like having something well made, looks nice, and will last on
         | the order of decades. I also like not having something attached
         | to my wrist that tries to grab my attention for every email,
         | text, call, etc. that I get.
         | 
         | > They keep worse time that an ntp synced phone
         | 
         | There is nothing in my life that requires me to be in sync to a
         | precision beyond +/- 30 seconds.
         | 
         | > have no internet connectivity and few features
         | 
         | Some folks (like myself) view that as a feature, not a bug. I
         | actually like walking around without something constantly on my
         | person that is always internet connected.
        
         | goodpoint wrote:
         | Conspicuous consumption and showing off status symbols.
        
       | nightowl_games wrote:
       | I bought a Casio F91W so I can turn my phone off at night and use
       | the watch for an alarm clock. I'm happy to have the most popular
       | watch in the world. It's simple, cheap, reliable, and has a retro
       | look that has grown on me.
        
         | NikolaNovak wrote:
         | When I "got into watches" a decade ago, I got a bunch of
         | interesting looking ones from Gearbest I think (today it'd be
         | Aliexpress). Mechanical, quartz, retro, futuristic, large &
         | small, multi-dial crazy kitchy contraptions and plain classy
         | ones. Got it happily in and out of my system for couple of
         | hundred bucks _total_ , probably 12-18 or so different pieces
         | :). Don't understand paying more than, say $300-400 for a
         | watch, absolute _MAX_ - I think there 's a point up to which
         | you get more reliability/features/functionality, and a point
         | after which you don't.
         | 
         | My favourite / most expensive watch is still the Citizen
         | BlueAngel Navihawk (gift when I was taking flight lessons
         | before my enthusiasm phase). It's also however by far the most
         | finicky / least reliable of the bunch, so go figure :-/
        
           | grog454 wrote:
           | > Don't understand paying more than, say $300-400 for a
           | watch, absolute MAX
           | 
           | Based on some of the other posts in this thread it seems like
           | there are some people who wouldn't understand paying _less_
           | than $3000-4000. Interesting divergence for the same hobby!
        
       | bri3d wrote:
       | Cars are in the exact same place. Everything, even "mid-range" or
       | "practical" cars, has gone ballistic valuation-wise, and owners
       | are left trying to figure out whether to drive their cars or
       | mothball them.
        
       | lunaru wrote:
       | A rare watch is an IYKYK item and the iconic pieces are
       | immediately noticeable from across the room. I do wonder if the
       | deflation in asset prices (driven by increase in interest rates)
       | will put downward pressure on some of the craziness right now.
       | 
       | But for someone who is outside looking in, and wondering what the
       | fuss is all about: A watch, especially Patek Philippe is much
       | better for signaling status to those you want to send that signal
       | to, while completely being unnoticeable by an audience from whom
       | you don't want negative attention. At the same time, it
       | appreciates like fine art that you can take with you on your
       | wrist. It has a lot of the characteristics of investment assets
       | that are desirable.
       | 
       | It's crypto v0.1.
        
       | zucked wrote:
       | I came into collecting modest watches around 2010. There was
       | certainly a renewed interest in mechanical watches at the time, a
       | lot of it being driven by things like MaleFashionAdvice on
       | Reddit. I believe MFA had a significant hand in rescuing Seiko
       | from obscurity with the SNK809 and SKX007. Old Seiko mechanical
       | chronographs like the 6139 could be had readily for less than a
       | thousand dollars. I had a beautifully restored one I bought and
       | sold for around $300. The same watch is worth at least three
       | times that today.
       | 
       | At that time, it was still possible to acquire steel Rolexes at
       | "modest" prices. As a goal to celebrate my (future) career
       | achievements, I set my sights on a birth year Submariner - which
       | were attainable at the $3,500+ price points at that time.
       | 
       | You can't really buy a Submariner for less than $10k today. As
       | mentioned in the article, Rolex dealers and others play crazy
       | games where stainless models are virtually unobtanium. Even
       | trickle down brands (Tudor, for example) have ridden the wave. I
       | can no longer afford, nor do I want to afford, a birth year
       | submariner. To me, the beauty in those watches is that they are
       | tools; they were built to serve a purpose.
       | 
       | I ended up lucking into a Tudor Pelagos Left Hand Drive. The
       | ultimate tool watch - light titanium, great lume, etc. I wear it.
       | I wear it hard. It's been with me for dozens of life momentous
       | events. When the watch craze passes, I hope I can pass it down to
       | my kiddo as a reminder of my existence.
        
         | vgeek wrote:
         | If you like lume, check out tritium watches from companies like
         | Luminox or Traser. They have automatics that are reasonably
         | priced and are super utilitarian. Most of their models are
         | field or divers, so they may fit your preferences.
        
           | adamomada wrote:
           | My personal favourite tritium that I've been wearing for
           | almost 20 years: the GSAR from Marathon Watch company.
           | 
           | And yes the tritium half-life is real. I can still see it
           | well-enough but it ain't like it used to be.
           | 
           | To GP: I humbly submit this one as the ultimate tool watch
        
             | zucked wrote:
             | I do love the Marathon watches - they are truly a tool of
             | timetelling. I just happen to like my Tudor more :D
        
             | vgeek wrote:
             | Seconded on the tritium fade, my oldest is around 15 years
             | and you can tell a big difference vs newer ones.
             | 
             | I've had my eye on a Marathon GPM for a while, I already
             | have a GPQ-clone with no date complication. Bertucci A5s
             | are similar if you like compact field watches.
             | 
             | https://www.fullgear.watch/en/ these are supposed to use
             | Seiko movements and you can customize the dial quite a bit,
             | but haven't seen much about the build quality.
        
               | kettro wrote:
               | The GPM is honestly really underwhelming -- I tried them
               | on at the windup fair this past weekend. There is no lack
               | of khaki field watches out there with better build
               | quality, not to mention actual water resistance (Hamilton
               | being chief amongst, or other Seiko 5's)
        
         | animalgonzales wrote:
         | this. the speculation around watches right now is completely
         | unhinged. my Rolex Date 34mm sold for $3k in excellent
         | condition three years ago. the same watch now sells for nearly
         | $6k.
        
         | ubermonkey wrote:
         | Re: built for a purpose, I think a lot of folks today just see
         | Rolex as a luxury brand, but when Sean Connery walked out of
         | the waves in _Dr No_ wearing a Rolex, it was because it was
         | precisely the sort of robust, fault-tolerant timepiece a super-
         | spy WOULD wear. Moreover, back then, they weren 't NEARLY so
         | expensive. Rolex's prices have drastically outpaced inflation
         | FOR SURE.
         | 
         | I had thought I'd buy a Subbie, too, but even at the turn of
         | the century they had gotten a bit nuts. I opted for a Seamaster
         | instead, at HALF the price.
         | 
         | >I can pass it down to my kiddo
         | 
         | As I noted uptopic, my first fancy watch was a 1970s Rolex I
         | inherited from MY dad. Someone will inherit it from me. My
         | friend C. has his grandfather's steel Rolex; his son will
         | inherit that one.
         | 
         | That's a nice thing about mechs you can't really get out of
         | electronics.
        
           | dharmab wrote:
           | Spot on. Bond wearing a Submariner with a tuxedo woumd be
           | like showing up to a black tie event wearing a Casio G Shock
           | today.
        
             | achenatx wrote:
             | so funny you say that. I wear a g shock with my tux.
        
       | ubermonkey wrote:
       | I wore exclusively mechanical watches for most of my life,
       | starting with a Rolex I inherited from my dad in the mid-80s.
       | 
       | When he bought it, Rolex wasn't yet as insanely upmarket as
       | they've become. It was kind of the obvious token of upper-middle-
       | class success of the era. Dad's is the two-tone DateJust on what
       | Rolex calls a "Jubilee" bracelet, and you've seen the color
       | scheme and overall look on a million knock-off Citizens and
       | Seikos.
       | 
       | Rolex SAYS you're supposed to service these annually, but even
       | when I wore it daily I didn't do that. I think it's been serviced
       | maybe 3 or 4 times since I've had it; aside from a replaced
       | mainspring a few years back, it runs fine and keeps time as good
       | as any mechanical. That's kind of the appeal of Rolex, or at
       | least it was in the 60s and 70s: they're VERY VERY robust, so you
       | especially see them on wrists of successful people in jobs that
       | would be hard on a less robust watch. (Thinks chefs, or
       | contractors, or -- like my dad -- veterinarians.)
       | 
       | I had a good dot-com era and bought a couple of my own, but
       | nothing in precious metals or super expensive. And then, a few
       | years ago, I was training for a half marathon and wanted a
       | running device with GPS. I ended up with a gen-1 Apple Watch, and
       | the damn thing was so HANDY that I upgraded to a fancier (steel,
       | sapphire crystal) model for Series 3, and now I almost never wear
       | the fancy mechanicals. I still LOVE them -- it's very cool that
       | humans figured out how to keep time using springs and gears! --
       | but for day to day wear, it's almost always the Apple now.
        
         | Domenic_S wrote:
         | Annually?!
         | 
         |  _It is recommended to service your Rolex approximately every
         | 10 years depending on the model and real-life usage._
         | 
         | https://www.rolex.com/watch-care-and-
         | service/faq.html#:~:tex....
        
           | pkulak wrote:
           | The modern movements are a lot more robust. It wouldn't
           | surprise me if a 50-year old watch had 1 year as the
           | recommended service interval.
        
         | MarkMarine wrote:
         | Opposite for me. I don't like wearing a watch in the evening,
         | and I always forgot to charge the Apple Watch because it would
         | be by the sink where I prepped dinner or somewhere. I never
         | have to worry about charging my mechanical. I wear a brand that
         | people obsessed with watches that appreciate don't care about
         | (so they lose value) but are mechanically "perfect." Not a
         | status symbol, I don't have to worry about wearing it on
         | vacation or anything. It's a prized possession because of it's
         | utility.
        
           | thoms_a wrote:
           | Have to chime in with my agreement here. As an engineer, to
           | me the beauty of the mechanical watch lies in its embodiment
           | of "form follows function".
           | 
           | I read this entire article as I find the horology and the
           | hobbyists fascinating, but my passion is strictly that of an
           | engineer for his tool. I like robust, well made tools by
           | companies that value craftsmanship and longevity. Status,
           | collectability and such are superfluous in my estimation.
           | 
           | Now, the history of a watch is important, but that is a
           | personal thing which you create with your own watch. Any
           | watch can have its own story, and the most important story is
           | the one you're living with your own watch, whether it be a
           | Patek Phillipe or a Casio.
        
       | smackeyacky wrote:
       | I have been watching a lot of youtube videos from "wristwatch
       | revival", Marshall has an oddly soothing, breezy voiceover as he
       | services mechanical watches. Its kind of like Bob Ross.
       | 
       | The workmanship in even prosaic mechanical watches is neat to see
       | as he disassembles them.
        
         | thom wrote:
         | It was a weird crossing of streams when I first saw his watch
         | channel, because I'd only known him as a Magic: the Gathering
         | commentator and streamer. I can't even say "better known" given
         | the relative subscriber numbers.
        
       | newaccount2021 wrote:
        
       | jacquesm wrote:
       | If you want an idea of how crazy this can get:
       | 
       | https://www.chronext.com/patek-philippe/nautilus/5990-1a-001...
        
         | noja wrote:
         | EUR449,000 <-- wtf! that's a thousand separator
        
           | daniel-cussen wrote:
           | Shows up as 577,960 USD for me.
           | 
           | EDIT: required javascript, clearly price discriminating.
        
         | ubermonkey wrote:
         | Over half a million IN STEEL. Jesus.
        
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