[HN Gopher] Show HN: Web page that parses and explains the label...
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Show HN: Web page that parses and explains the label on a bike tire
History: Last year I had to replace the tire on my bike, and I was
surprised how difficult it was to find a suitable new tire. There
were a lot of numbers written on the casing, so I googled what they
meant. In the end I was successful, but I didn't want to do the
same work again for the next bike after I've forgotten the details.
So I wrote this website. Technically, the web page is kept very
simple, no frameworks, no templates, no website builder. It uses
HTML5, CSS and JavaScript, and it privides a responsive layout for
mobile usage. I'm happy to receive feedback. If you have tried the
label of your bike tire, and it doesn't work, please post it as
well. Thanks!
Author : moasda
Score : 449 points
Date : 2022-01-30 15:31 UTC (7 hours ago)
(HTM) web link (fahrrad-tools.de)
(TXT) w3m dump (fahrrad-tools.de)
| pzumk wrote:
| Nice, well done. I'll bookmark that one!
|
| Let us know how much you make with those Amazon ref links while
| being HN's #1
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! So far, I haven't even earned a coffee, but it would
| be great if I could compensate the hosting costs in the long
| run. :-)
| pharmakom wrote:
| I wish ETRTO was more common terminology for consumers. It tells
| you most of what you need to know with very little ambiguity.
|
| It would also be great if tyre widths were in MM across the
| entire size range. Even in Europe, mountain bike tyres are sized
| in inches!
| hprotagonist wrote:
| https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html has (i think all?)
| of the edge cases you're going to encounter in any bike made
| after about 1925.
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks, this link definitely helps to cross-check if I got the
| mapping right.
| hansvm wrote:
| For anyone else stumbling across this, sheldonbrown.com has a
| wealth of high-quality information about bicycles, and it's
| rare that I don't look there first.
| ImprovedSilence wrote:
| 100%. If I'm doing my own maintenance (for just about
| anything) or want to build up some Franken-bike, I read up on
| my Sheldon "thank god that website is still around" Brown.
| schwartzworld wrote:
| Semi-tangential, I took my fixie to Harris Cyclery for a tuneup
| before it closed. Boy, was I floored when the guy working at
| the counter told me that fixies weren't cool anymore. Sheldon
| was a big part of my journey to riding fixed gear. I learned
| everything I know about bikes from his site and he even
| answered questions personally by email.
|
| I'm pretty sure when the guy said fixies weren't cool, I heard
| Sheldon spin in his grave a little.
| buro9 wrote:
| Sheldon Brown is the go to for everything like this.
|
| There are no affiliate links, and he went way beyond the
| company he worked on, it's a pure act of love and is super
| comprehensive. It's just info to help you.
| KennyBlanken wrote:
| I would caution people reading that site to double-check
| anything they see there, or simply consult a much, much older
| version from archive.org.
|
| Sheldon passed over a decade ago, and the site has been
| modified over time by a guy named John Allen. He fancies
| himself an expert of similar caliber, but has a tiny fraction
| of the hands-on experience Sheldon did.
|
| He's made a number of edits/additions injecting his personal
| opinion. For example: about belt drives, of which he clearly
| has no personal experience.
| bazzargh wrote:
| Huh, I had a look at the belt drive thing - Allen added
| that in 2012(!) when belt drives were still relatively new
| - Gates went mainstream around 2009, and Center Track
| appeared 2010-2011. At the time many more belt drives would
| have been retrofitted onto old bikes instead of frames
| designed for them. He may not have had the experience then,
| but should have by now...that definitely needs an edit.
|
| And wow, over a decade indeed, I can't believe its been so
| long :(
|
| (FWIW my main bike has been belt drive & Rohloff geared,
| dynamo lights for 6 years now, the reduced maintenance is
| great, I can just step on my bike and go)
| nicbou wrote:
| This is the sort of websites we need more of. It's simple, fast
| and useful, and not monetized at the users' expense.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you :-)
| mauvehaus wrote:
| This is handy, but the good news is that if you're dealing with
| anything made in the last 30-40 years, it's all but guaranteed to
| have the ETRTO measurements marked on it somewhere.
|
| Practically speaking there are two rim diameters you'll likely
| come across on all but old, "unusual" or high end bikes:
|
| 559mm: the ubiquitous "26 inch" mountain bike tire. Has largely
| fallen out of favor on high end mountain bikes, but there are
| zillions of bikes with 559mm wheels and frames sized for them out
| there. On high end mountain bikes, largely displaced by 29" or
| 27.5" setups.
|
| 622mm: "700c" road rims or "29 inch" mountain bike rims. Nearly
| universal on modern road bikes. If you have something else on a
| _new_ road bike, you probably already know it.
|
| Other sizes you might find in the wild:
|
| 630mm: The largely obsolete "27 inch" road rims. uncommon on new
| bikes, but you'll still find plenty of them on older bikes. Not
| even the slightest bit interchangeable with 622mm. Usually, you
| can't even switch to 622mm rims on frame built for 630mm because
| the brakes won't reach 4mm closer to the axle. Easily mistaken
| for 622mm if you aren't paying attention.
|
| 584mm is the "27.5 inch" mountain bike standard that splits the
| difference between 26" and 29". If you have this, you probably
| know already.
|
| Once you've got the rim diameter right, the tire width is pretty
| straightforward: if it looks right, it is right. It'll be pretty
| obvious that a "29 inch" mountain bike tire doesn't go on a road
| rim, even if the diameter on both is 622mm. If you have needs
| under which that doesn't apply, you're probably already aware of
| them.
|
| You can put hooked tires on straight sided rims safely (I have),
| but likely not the other way even if you could find dedicated
| straight sided tires.
|
| Tubulars are a while 'nother animal, about which I know nothing
| :-)
|
| ETRTO made it much, much simpler to get the rim size right when
| all of the various standards had different names to different
| people.
| timonoko wrote:
| One and only issue is the rim width. There must be some limits
| how fat tire you can put on a narrow rim and vice versa?
|
| But usually everything goes. On a backcountry tour 23-622 on
| front and 47-622 on back works best, because you dont want the
| bike to be front-heavy.
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks a lot for the insights!
| csours wrote:
| I tried to buy bike inner tubes on Amazon and I just could not do
| it. I would do a search, go to a product page, and the thing I
| wanted simply was not on that product page. I wound up going to a
| local bike shop and was in and out in less time than I had spent
| trying to find them online.
| analog31 wrote:
| Yeah, tubes are complicated by the fact that one tube size fits
| more than one tire size, plus there are two different kinds of
| valve stems, and some contemporary wheels need extra long
| stems.
|
| One favor you can do yourself is to start patching your tubes
| if you're not already doing so.
| sasawpg wrote:
| Switched to tubeless last year, but prior to that I've
| patched a few as an emergency and tossed it when I get home.
| All of my patches held but I didn't trust a single one.
| $10/tube was cheap insurance against a potential disaster.
|
| I do run latex on my gravel/cx bike and those go into the
| trash immediately as they're far more difficult to properly
| patch. Hurts a little more when you pay 2-3x the price though
| :(
| convolvatron wrote:
| is there a trick? when I first started riding I got a bunch
| of patch kits. I'm doing this in the shop so I have plenty of
| time to clean the area, rough it up. clamps to make sure the
| patch is firmly set, etc. after about..10 tries? I just gave
| up. I am religiously for wringing the last bit of
| functionality out of something before burying it...but it
| just wasn't worth it.
| chedabob wrote:
| Are you using self-adhesive patches or something that uses
| a tube of glue? I never got on with anything other than
| Rema's patches.
| analog31 wrote:
| Indeed, the answer is Rema. There may be some other
| brands that are as good, but Rema forms an actual
| chemical bond between the patch and the rubber of the
| tire. The vulcanizing fluid prepares the surface of the
| tube so it will bond to the patch. Better living through
| chemistry.
|
| Everything else, check. Roughing up the patch area,
| waiting a few minutes for the vulcanizing fluid to dry,
| squeezing the patch for a few seconds after applying.
|
| I've never had a problem with the little sandpaper that
| comes with the kit.
| kevin_thibedeau wrote:
| The sandpaper used in most kits is near useless. The
| sheetmetal "rasp" rougheners work much better to get the
| mold release broken up.
| moasda wrote:
| You are right, for the first time it's confusing to find the
| right tube as they fit to several tire sizes.
| giobox wrote:
| While I commend anyone who takes the time to patch a tube, if
| you have kids/job/life/etc it is so much quicker and easier
| to just replace the tube. They can be bought for very little
| and fitted before you've even tracked down the hole on the
| old tube. If you are out on a longish ride, you probably want
| to be carrying full size spare tubes tucked in a pocket or
| bag anyway - patching at the roadside is not fun, and again
| takes far longer than just popping in new tube and getting on
| your way. Tubes with no air in them are very small/compact.
|
| Over the past 20 years of riding a collection of ~10 bikes, I
| would be lucky if patching tubes would have saved me even 200
| dollars. What your time is worth to you may be different, but
| for most working adults I don't think patching makes time-
| money-sense. Assuming you already have a pump, instead of
| ordering a patch kit to carry with you on rides or keep at
| home, just order one of whatever tube your bike needs
| (usually ~5-9 bucks), some tire levers (reusable, 5 bucks)
| and keep in drawer until day dawns you need it. The rare time
| I buy a new bike with a weird innertube I don't already have,
| I buy a couple of spares immediately with the bike.
| analog31 wrote:
| That's fair, and you need a spare tube anyway because not
| all flats are repairable. I carry a spare tube and a patch
| kit, but typically patch the punctured tube at home. The
| patch kit is in case I get a second flat -- a vanishingly
| rare occurrence thanks to puncture resistant tires.
|
| Each person has to satisfy their own sense of time and
| money, which I suspect is partially subjective for most of
| us. For instance I actually have spare time, and am not
| paid for working extra hours on my day job. Admittedly,
| being self sufficient for bike maintenance is part of
| "life" for me, and even when my kids needed more attentive
| care, I was always able to carve out 15 minutes to patch a
| tube.
| nicbou wrote:
| Amazon's search is completely useless if you're looking for
| specific things. It simply ignores what you typed and throws
| random sponsored products at you.
| Freak_NL wrote:
| Heh. Even in bicycle-rich countries like Germany and the
| Netherlands, these numbers are somehow still tricky. I guess it
| doesn't help that they are often hard to read and a lot of the
| numbers are actually redundant.
|
| So yeah, useful! And my compliments for the neatness in your data
| privacy approach.
|
| At one point I just took the old tyre into a bicycle repair shop
| and asked for the proper replacement, and the person who sold me
| one even managed to get the wrong one (they replaced it for the
| proper one afterwards of course). It used to be that most normal
| use bicycles all had the same tyre, and only racing bikes had
| those weird French style ones, but newer bicycles tend to have
| fatter tyres (which is not a bad development for sturdy day-to-
| day bicycles laden with groceries, an adult cyclist, and a child
| in front or behind the cyclist).
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| aeharding wrote:
| This is really cool, thank you for sharing!
|
| It would be neat if the information and links could be localized.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! The web page is in English and German for now.
| [deleted]
| mywacaday wrote:
| Great work and thanks for NOT making this an app. The people that
| creat the standard should have done this.
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| jackconsidine wrote:
| Great work. I've replaced several tires and every time it's the
| same ambiguous lookups followed by crossed fingers as I install
| the thing. I'm sure I'll use this page in the future
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| ape4 wrote:
| There don't appear to be any newlines. Wasn't it hard to edit by
| hand that way? (Unless I am missing something)
| moasda wrote:
| Are you looking into the HTML code? It's minified by the
| deployment script.
|
| That's not the way I edit HTML files. :-)
| taeric wrote:
| I like putting 700x32 tires on my bike. Haven't issue attention
| to the other numbers. Are they mostly redundant? Guessing for a
| casual rider they don't have much of an impact?
| analog31 wrote:
| You're probably OK as 700x32 is a fairly common designation.
| The ETRTO for that tire is 32-622.
| moasda wrote:
| The ETRTO numbers are the most useful ones. If you just look on
| them, you're good to go.
| wiredfool wrote:
| Yeah, that 28" number is goofy. In Mountain bike terms, it's
| a 29er. For road usage, it's 700c. But the rest of the world,
| at least those who measure in mm, use 622.
| moasda wrote:
| Yes, the outer diameter is a bit more complicated. From
| this point of view, some bikes can use different tire
| sizes.
| 323 wrote:
| A somewhat important factor is if the tire is slick/smooth,
| knobby or in-between. For casual riding you probably want
| something in the middle so that it's fine on most surfaces.
| wiredfool wrote:
| Slick/smooth unless you're doing mud/snow. The tread compound
| matters a lot more than the tread pattern, until you're into
| sloppy stuff, and then the tread starts to matter.
| thinkling wrote:
| Huh. I thought the C in 700C indicated that the tire was a
| clincher as opposed to tubular but that seems to be wrong.
|
| You tool says:
|
| > Reifenhohe C: ca. 39 mm (French designation)
|
| but it says that for 700x19C as well as for 700x40C which seems
| odd?
|
| The wikipedia page for Bicycle wheel [1] says:
|
| > The ISO 5775-2 standard defines designations for bicycle rims.
| It distinguishes between 1. Straight-side (SS) rims 2. Crochet-
| type (C) rims (...)
|
| and also
|
| > Road wheels may be designed for tubular or clincher tires,
| commonly referred to as "700C" tires.
|
| but it doesn't explain the B in 650B.
|
| Sheldon Brown [2] says (emphasis added)
|
| > A second number or letter code would indicate the *width* of
| the tire. (26 x 1.75, 27 x 1 1/4...650B, 700C...)
|
| The wikipedia page does mention both 650B and 650C and that the
| ISO diameter differs by a few mm. So if I understand right, these
| codes (650B and 700C) specify the full-wheel diameter (650/700)
| and the letter indicates how much of that diameter the tire needs
| to make up, i.e. a 650B rim is slightly smaller (571mm) than a
| 650C (584mm) and the tire needs to make up that differencxe to
| get to 650?
|
| [EDITED] 700C rims are ISO diameter 622mm, which matches with 2x
| 39mm tire width: 622 + 78 = 700mm. So I guess the intended tire
| height at time of standard-invention was 39mm?
|
| But in practice a 700x19C rim-tire combo will be smaller in
| diameter than a 700x40C so I guess they're not fully "700C"
| standard compliant?
|
| [1]
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#650B_gravel_bicy...
|
| [2] https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
| moasda wrote:
| Wow, thank you very much for the valuable information. I will
| check how to improve the page accordingly.
| sasawpg wrote:
| Pasted description below from Sheldon's page. The A/B/C
| designation is even more confusing when you consider 700C
| wheels/tires which these days range from the uncommon 19mm to
| well over 40mm.
|
| In the French sizing system, tires are designated by a three-
| digit number, which may be followed by a letter. The number is
| the nominal outside diameter of the tire the rim was originally
| designed for. The absence of a letter indicated a narrow tire;
| "A", "B" and "C" indicated increasingly wider tires."A" was
| originally a tire about 30 mm wide, so the 650A rim is pretty
| large, 590 mm. If you add the top and bottom 30 mm tire
| thickness to 590, you wind up with the 650 mm tire diameter.
|
| The 650C size was originally intended for a quite wide tire,
| about 40 mm wide. Top and bottom 40 mm tire plus the 571 mm rim
| size again bring you to a 650 mm outside diameter, even though
| the rim was smaller.
| Matthias247 wrote:
| Interesting historic context!
|
| My understanding is that in the current world the suffix
| doesn't really matter, since all 28" rims and tires are
| marketed seem to be marketed as 700c, and all 27.5" ones as
| 650b. The height of the tire pretty much correlates with the
| tire width, so one would rather look at the tire and rim width
| to determine whether they are compatible (wider rims should be
| used for wider tires).
|
| And it's actually fun that 700c bikes are usally ridden with
| narrower and lower tires than 650b bikes (which was in the
| recent years mostly used for mountain bikes and tire width of
| >= 2.3"), despite this designation claiming the opposite.
| petre wrote:
| Actually 650b is used when the tire width is less than 50 mm
| (randonneur and gravel bikes) and 27.5" when the width is
| over 50 mm (mountain bikes). Jan Heine and Kirk Pacenti
| reintroduced this size.
| comprev wrote:
| Pinkbike has a good article on rim width [1]
|
| [1] https://www.pinkbike.com/news/rim-widths-comparison-test-
| mou...
| switchbak wrote:
| In the mountain bike world, there's really only two modern
| standards - 650b (also called 27.5in) and 29er's. 26er's were
| a thing for the longest time, but really no one makes new
| bikes in that size anymore.
|
| We're mostly riding on wider tires, 2.3 seems to be a
| rational minimum for real trail riding, and you'll often see
| widths of 2.6 and beyond (and fat bikes of course go way
| wider) on both 27.5 and 29in bikes.
| pieter wrote:
| What I would love is something that can give alternative tube
| sizes.
|
| My bike uses 22x3 tubes, which are unusual and hard to come by.
| However, there have been reports of 20x4 bike tubes or 18x3
| motorcycle tubes also fitting.
|
| A website that recommends more widely available or cheaper "this
| will also fit" tubes would be amazing.
| moasda wrote:
| You are right, my tube page also doesn't list a fitting tube
| for that size right now.
| [deleted]
| Matthias247 wrote:
| Nice site!
|
| I'll also suggest an easy thing to add: You could add an
| explanation of folding tires vs wirebead tires. Often even tires
| with the same dimensions come with both formats. The difference
| and the benefits of each version (price vs weight and rolling
| resistance) are understandable for most people.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you, good idea, I will add an explanation.
| Lio wrote:
| For anyone interested in tyre rolling resistance I can
| recommend:
|
| https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/
|
| It's a wealth of standardised tests of tyres and tubes, if like
| that sort of thing.
| mkoryak wrote:
| Nit: Send me to the US version of Amazon if I'm from the US.
| moasda wrote:
| Good idea, I will think about that.
| Grustaf wrote:
| The most useful link on HN of the year has already been posted.
| Those labels are baffling.
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| DenisM wrote:
| Needs a note re tubeless setup, esp for mountain bikes. Fewer
| punctures, easier to repair in the field. Tubeless-ready tires
| should also have a note on the sidewall.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you for the hint!
| analog31 wrote:
| Very nice. As a long time cyclist with a fondness for bikes
| thrown together from odd parts, finding suitable tires that are
| affordable is always an issue. I've learned that the ETRTO number
| is the only thing I need to know. Virtually all modern tires
| provide that number.
|
| There have only been some rare cases such as a 1963 Schwinn
| repack cruiser, where I needed to do a bit of research to match
| its oddball tire size. Then the Sheldon Brown website came to my
| aid.
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| BrandoElFollito wrote:
| Thank you for that. Really.
|
| Is there a way to decide which tube to use, having the
| measurements of the frame? (the round metal part on which the
| tyre goes on sorry if this is not the correct expression, I am no
| a native speaker of English)).
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! If you know the diameter of the rim (the round metal
| part in your description), e.g. 600 mm, and you can assume a
| tire width, e.g. 40 mm, then you can search for "40-600" and
| find some tubes:
|
| https://fahrrad-tools.de/tube.html?text=40-600
| BrandoElFollito wrote:
| Thanks. This is especially the "assume a tire width" that is
| a problem - are there hard rules for which width is possible
| for X (X being something I measure)
| moasda wrote:
| I wonder why you focus on the tube first? Wouldn't it be
| easier to choose a tire for your rim first? Then you can
| also easily find the right tube.
| 6LLvveMx2koXfwn wrote:
| Valve length is important if you have deep section wheels,
| something missing from your tube FAQ. Most 40mm valves will not
| fit moderately aero wheels.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you very much for the helpful hint. I will extend the FAQ
| accordingly.
| stazz1 wrote:
| you're a very kind person to create such a tool. is there a way
| to make it work offline so one could use it without an internet
| connection? just a thought -- it seems like it'd be a useful
| standalone program.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you for your feedback! Permanent offline use could be
| achieved through a mobile app, I will think about it.
| ada1981 wrote:
| Make this use the camera so You can just use a photo of the tire
| :)
|
| Rad!
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you for the hint!
| tpmx wrote:
| Is there something like this for car tires?
| jawmes9 wrote:
| Kind of similar: https://tiresize.com/calculator/
|
| I've used it for buying my truck's tires in the past.
| habibk0322 wrote:
| https://techlinear.blogspot.com/2022/01/its-not-just-irs-us-...
| deweywsu wrote:
| yawnxyz wrote:
| This is really great!! Definitely something that would have
| helped me back in the day before I realized how complicated /
| annoying getting proper tires was.
|
| I won't need it for my own bike anymore, but definitely when I
| get a new (used) one next.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you :-)
| aaaaaaaaaaab wrote:
| Beautiful website! No bullshit, high utility, zero tracking. As
| it should be!
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks!
| grumbly09 wrote:
| Nice website. Where did you source your data from?
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! I used the official product specification from the
| manufacturers.
| sasl wrote:
| Thanks for this, I remember going down a rabbit hole parsing the
| codes on my last set of tyres trying to figure out what to
| replace it with (I learned there's a standard, ETRTO [1]) and I'm
| glad something like this now exists! Great work. Do you have
| plans for it beyond what's there already?
|
| [1]
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Tyre_and_Rim_Technica...
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! Right now, I just implemented my knowledge from my
| personal notes when I had to replace my tire. Maybe I'll add
| some more tools after I learnt something new about bikes.
| Simon_O_Rourke wrote:
| Great idea! I made a mess out of buying a new stem for a road
| bike and I can confirm that reading/guessing numbers from bikes
| parts is non trivial.
|
| How are you going about monetizing this? Affiliate links?
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you! Yes, there are affiliate links on the page to get
| some money for the hosting, but that's not the main goal of the
| page.
| sasawpg wrote:
| I've never understood why bike manufacturers don't make it
| easier to look up parts by serial number. SRAM has done this
| right, you can search for parts based on s/n and it will give
| you exact specs (s/n is stamped onto the part). Their service
| manuals are also very well designed and free!
| sasawpg wrote:
| If you think decoding those numbers is tough, wait until you try
| fitting road (700c) tubeless tires. Buying is the easy part as in
| theory any 700c tubeless tire will fit provided you're within the
| appropriate width range, which is relatively generous (provided
| you respect hooked/hookless). In practice it is far more
| complicated and the experience can be a nightmare. Sometimes the
| wheel/tire manufacturers don't follow standards, other times they
| do but results leave something to be desired. You have Uniform
| Standard Tubeless, Tubeless Ready, Tubeless Easy, Tubeless
| Compatible, hooked, hookless, yet no real guarantees the tire and
| wheel will be compatible.
|
| I fit Continental GP5000TL (depending on the generation and
| width, they are notoriously difficult to mount) to two different
| sets of wheels. One set of wheels gave me a hard time and it took
| 30-45m per tire, but they eventually went on. On the second set
| of wheels, one went on easy enough. The second took well over an
| hour and resulted in multiple blisters (and much cursing) even
| after using every known trick. Schwalbe Ones in comparison
| mounted in a minute with no struggle, and actually hold air
| better than the Contis which can supposedly be used without a
| sealant.
| stefan_ wrote:
| It is really pissing me off that "tubeless ready" wheels and
| "tubeless ready" tires have made it infinitely harder to just
| fit a tire with a good old tube inside.
| sasawpg wrote:
| Can you elaborate on this?
|
| With the exception of hookless rims (which are not common
| yet, at least here), TL wheels will take a clincher tire and
| tube, and TL tires will take a tube. The potential
| incompatibility comes from TL tires and TL wheels, not at all
| related to tubes, and is because of lack of spec and
| manufacturing tolerances.
| notatoad wrote:
| normally when fitting a tire, you put the bead on one side
| in the "gutter" in the center of the rim where the diameter
| is narrower while you lever on the bead on the second side.
| leaving the first bead loose and un-seated while you pop on
| the second bead makes it pretty easy.
|
| rims with thick rim tape designed to seal with tubeless
| tires have much less gutter, so it's a bit more difficult
| to squeeze the last bit of the tire onto the rim. they're
| compatible, just difficult to work with.
| sasawpg wrote:
| There are tire/wheel TL combos that are just not
| compatible, no matter what you try. Centering the tire is
| key, soapy water helps, you may need to warm up the tire,
| a tire jack may be needed in some cases .. but none of
| those will work 100% of the time, which is ridiculous.
| stefan_ wrote:
| Sure, except now rim and tire manufacturers go to the
| opposite ends of manufacturing tolerances on their
| respective parts because no one wants some niche road
| tubeless setup popping off at 7 bar. The result is tires
| like the GP5k (not even TL version) where I've struggled to
| get even the first side over, on rims that are tubeless
| ready and, no coincidence, have a history of being
| difficult to fit tires on.
|
| I want to be able to fix a flat outside, not call an Uber.
| sasawpg wrote:
| Ah fully understand, I thought you meant there is somehow
| incompatibility between tubes and TL wheels/tires.
|
| I'll echo your frustration 100%. I found Schwalbe Ones
| are much looser fitting and have no problem mounting them
| on two sets of rims I have that will barely take a GP5K.
| ndsipa_pomu wrote:
| I've heard quite a few people complain about GP5000TLs, but
| that's what I've been using for a while (on Prime carbon
| wheels) and haven't had too much trouble with them. With
| tubeless tyres, you really have to make use of the inner rim
| well (i.e. the middle bit) to give you the crucial extra mm or
| so. At least with tubeless tyres you can use tyre levers to get
| the last bit on and not worry about puncturing a tube. Schwalbe
| Ones are easier to fit in my experience, but they seem to have
| the durability of butterfly wings and even worse, they can get
| slippery in the wet when they're at high pressure (e.g. over
| 70psi).
|
| I've seen videos of people easily fitting tyres using just
| their thumbs, but I refuse to believe that's possible.
| sasawpg wrote:
| It entirely depends on the rim. First generation GP5000TLs
| were impossible to fit on some rims, difficult to fit on most
| rims and reasonable on a few. Second generation (I think late
| 2020/early 2021) are a slightly looser and will fit on more
| rims. I can't speak about the latest gen. released late last
| year.
|
| I personally love GP line of tires (used 4k/5k clincher and
| 5k TLs) as they have a good compromise of puncture
| protection, tread wear and rolling resistance. They generally
| rate at the top for just about any tire I'd use in a non-race
| scenario. I will not buy another pair though until I switch
| wheels as I have no desire to torture myself. I did not go as
| far as to bake the tires to loosen them, but I did let them
| sit out in the sun which made a bit of a difference.
|
| The other factor to consider is roadside repairs. If you have
| a really hard time mounting the tire initially and you
| puncture severely enough to need a tube (sealant leaked and
| plug won't hold), you're likely calling for a ride back. I
| did find they loosen after 500-750km so you are more likely
| to be able to fix it roadside if needed. I sliced the
| sidewall on my almost new GP5k but thankfully the plug held.
| Irresponsibly I used it for another 500km+ until it would no
| longer hold pressure overnight, but I do not recommend that
| route!
|
| As for using tire levers - buyer beware when it comes to
| carbon. I resorted to levers, but you do run a risk of
| permanently damaging your wheel. I have seen a picture of
| someone put one of the plastic with steel spine levers
| straight through their rim doing this. A tire bead jack is a
| far safer and far easier option (though I've yet to buy it).
| johns wrote:
| Did you try a tire bead jack? The Kool Stop one has worked
| wonders for me getting GPs on.
| sasawpg wrote:
| I figured someone would ask - no, I didn't have one handy,
| all LBSs were sold out and online orders would have taken too
| long.
|
| Did I learn from the experience? Absolutely not, still
| haven't bought the Kool Stop jack ...
| sasawpg wrote:
| Did I break down and take it to the LBS for mounting? Also,
| absolutely not. Why pay someone $20 to mount the tire when I
| can spend an hour fighting it and end with nasty blisters?
| melissalobos wrote:
| Thanks for sharing, this looks really useful. I have started
| biking again recently and the labels on the tire are super
| confusing. Do you have any plans to extend this(attempt OCR or
| something)?
|
| I tried looking at the source a bit and it seems like your markup
| is pretty clean, if a bit unreadable after minification. I liked
| the classes "question" and "answer". It looks like you are
| planning on using affiliate links to monetize it?
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you for the feedback. OCR is a great idea, for me it
| seems to be quite difficult to implement and probably requires
| a mobile app.
|
| The affiliate links are just a side effect to pay for the
| hosting.
| phkx wrote:
| There is a barcode scanner on https://schnelltesttest.de/
|
| Their source code is here:
| https://github.com/zerforschung/schnelltesttest.de
| moasda wrote:
| Thanks for the tip, I will look into it.
| AlexAndScripts wrote:
| You could possibly do it server side. I would personally
| implement it as a Flask server that took an image, ran it
| through either Pytesseract (quick, got to manually
| preprocess, needs tesseract installed) or Easyocr (slower but
| works out the box) then send back the if and only if it was a
| valid tire-info-string to avoid people abusing it for other
| purposes.
| moasda wrote:
| Wow, thank you, I will check that.
| hjek wrote:
| You could use a simple client-side JS OCR library, like
| GOCR.js[0]. It may only work on good photos of relatively new
| tires with clearly printed text, and that's not always what
| bicycle tires look like when you're looking to replace it, so
| not sure how useful it'd be.
|
| [0]: https://antimatter15.com/gocr.js/demo.html
| amelius wrote:
| I tried to to use GOCR packaged with Ubuntu on playlists,
| expecting it to work well since it's computer output. But
| it turned out not working so well. I also tried scaling the
| text but that didn't fix it.
| moasda wrote:
| Interesting approach, thank you. Sure, old tires might be
| hard to scan, but definitely worth to think about.
| mbrameld wrote:
| The first scenario in the FAQ sounds more like a pinch-flat to
| me. This happens when you ride up a curb or over a rock and the
| tire compresses, pinching the tube between the rim and the curb.
| Running higher tire pressures, using a product like CushCore, or
| as the author discovered running stiffer casings can all help
| reduce the incidence of pinch-flats.
| sasawpg wrote:
| A pinch flat (aka snake bite) will generally have two pinholes,
| making it relatively easy to identify.
|
| With that said I have never had a flat on the outside of the
| casing without actually an obvious sidewall tear/puncture.
| Definitely possible, but I would say it is far less likely.
| moasda wrote:
| Thank you for the hint.
| sasawpg wrote:
| I'd also add an important point - never replace a punctured
| tube without thoroughly checking the inside of your tire for
| sharp objects. You'll likely only make this mistake once.
| pbhjpbhj wrote:
| I've never really found a good way to check - visual check
| can miss things, running your hand around the inside works
| but you're liable to get something such in your hand! Wiping
| a around can work. But I've not come up with anything better?
| Maybe a tissue, or microfibre cloth will snag more easily and
| avoid missing something?
| sasawpg wrote:
| I take the chance and run my hand on the inside. Gloves
| should usually work well too, though I use fingerless on
| road.
|
| For off-road riding (cross) I pinch flat almost exclusively
| so I don't bother checking around. It is pretty obvious
| when you smack a root or rock.
| manwe150 wrote:
| I am often still wearing my biking gloves anyways, so I run
| my hand around inside, and then toss them in the wash when
| I get home.
| virgulino wrote:
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_5775
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