[HN Gopher] How plastic can rust, sort of
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       How plastic can rust, sort of
        
       Author : giuliomagnifico
       Score  : 69 points
       Date   : 2021-09-27 08:01 UTC (1 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (dfarq.homeip.net)
 (TXT) w3m dump (dfarq.homeip.net)
        
       | AlexandrB wrote:
       | I suspect a lot of these electronics are intended for indoor use
       | and are not made of UV stabilized plastics. I'd rather have
       | yellowed electronics than ones made brittle by being left outside
       | in the sun.
        
         | VLM wrote:
         | Observationally heat seems to make plastics more brittle than
         | sunlight. Top of dash car parts seem about as brittle as shaded
         | bottom of dash car parts.
         | 
         | Field service people seem to kill laptops in a couple years,
         | although we're talking about hours long process not years so
         | that shouldn't matter, anyway I don't recall the exposed tops
         | of their laptops being worse than the bottoms of their laptops.
         | 
         | The scientific debate about plastic breakdown seems to be over
         | centuries vs thousands of years exposures so mere hours will be
         | fine.
         | 
         | https://phys.org/news/2019-10-sunlight-degrades-polystyrene-...
        
         | bujak300 wrote:
         | A couple of hours will not make a difference. After a couple
         | hundred hours you will see uv radiation effects
        
         | timw4mail wrote:
         | Most yellowed plastics are likely brittle too.
        
       | titzer wrote:
       | I've never heard of setting plastic out in the Sun to reverse
       | yellowing. UV light is overall pretty terrible for plastic, as it
       | will become brittle and break down. It _will_ eventually turn to
       | dust from UV exposure alone. So if you care about the longevity
       | of the plastic and not just its cosmetics, don 't do the sunlight
       | thing.
        
       | mrspeaker wrote:
       | I can't believe the sunlight trick works. My brain always thought
       | it was the sun that made it yellow! I saw this first on the Retro
       | Recipes channel a while back where he shared some theories on the
       | maybe how's and why's.
       | (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8P1OVj0IcqY)
       | 
       | I was very skeptical, but I tried it out on my very very yellow
       | Nintendo Famicon, as well as some smoker-teeth-yellow keyboard
       | keys on an old Roland synth... left them out in the sun for a
       | couple of days (2x3hours). It worked really well on both my test
       | subjects! Certainly not perfect "retrobrite" white - but much
       | better than I expected.
        
       | derbOac wrote:
       | In the wetshaving community "butterscotch" shaving brushes became
       | sort of a sought-after commodity. They're basically plastic
       | brushes originally meant to mimic ivory in color that have
       | oxidized to a sort of butterscotch color.
       | 
       | Originally there was a lot of interest in restoring them to their
       | original ivory-like color. If you search there's lots of advice
       | on this, like exposing them to sunlight, or using UV lights
       | and/or peroxides.
       | 
       | Eventually though I think there got to be an interest in the aged
       | color, and interest in restoring the color declined.
       | 
       | I'm not a dentist, but I have family who are, and they explained
       | similar processes are involved in teeth whitening. Basically a
       | peroxide gel that gets put on the teeth with a custom fitting,
       | and then exposed to UV light.
        
       | drivers99 wrote:
       | 8-bit Guy does this frequently in his restorations.[1] He's
       | tested a lot of methods in the past. [2] One thing I noticed in
       | the old video is that heat worked even better than sunlight in
       | the peroxide solution, and the sunlight was also heating the
       | water in the Texas sun. But the light makes a difference as seen
       | by the rock shadows. He's also built indoor UV setups before. He
       | didn't seem to be aware of sous vide immersion heaters as a
       | solution for making larger volumes of heated water at a stable
       | temperature since he was thinking of inventing his own version of
       | one with various parts from the hardware store.
       | 
       | [1] skip to 2:45 https://youtu.be/xhBnyK5lQ2s
       | 
       | [2] https://youtu.be/qZYbchvSUDY
        
       | everdrive wrote:
       | I've only heard of retr0bright in this regard. SNES consoles are
       | pretty famous for yellowing at different rates. As other
       | commenters have stated, sunlight degrades plastic. It may perform
       | some whitening, but you're damaging the old electronics.
       | 
       | https://www.retr0bright.com/make.html
        
         | rowanG077 wrote:
         | I don't think you are supposed to apply it to the electronics.
         | Only the plastics.
        
       | fnord77 wrote:
       | several years back there was an article where someone
       | methodically tried several compounds to restore yellowed plastics
       | (IIRC it was the fire suppressant in the plastic that caused the
       | discoloration)
       | 
       | person put a lot of work into finding a solution. Wish I could
       | find the article. It was a great read - cleverness, hardwork and
       | the scientific method.
        
         | jpm_sd wrote:
         | http://www.mountainouswords.com/mountain-air/retr0bright-res...
         | 
         | http://www.retr0bright.com/
        
           | fnord77 wrote:
           | yes! thanks
        
       | hok wrote:
       | I wonder how hydrogen peroxide (a strong oxidant) can reverse the
       | yellowing of plastics, if the yellowing is the result of
       | oxidation. I'm not a chemist, but this doesn't seem to make
       | sense.
        
         | richrichardsson wrote:
         | If you follow some links in the OP you can end up at a source
         | article[1] that has some comments on the actual chemical
         | processes occurring for both the discolouration and reversal
         | (Ctrl-F "bromine").
         | 
         | TL;DR: Over time the bromine based flame retardants in retro-
         | era plastics degrade (hence the yellow/brown colour) and H2O2
         | plus some energy (UV light/heat) can be used to reverse the
         | process.
         | 
         | [1] http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189
        
         | xattt wrote:
         | I am not sure either. I have some quirky white plastic
         | Matroshka measuring cups that I left out on the sill as a
         | decoration for several years. They were exposed to sunlight,
         | and have yellowed. Interestingly, if I run them through the
         | dishwasher they become even more yellow, and fade with a bit of
         | time.
         | 
         | I wonder if it has anything to do with sodium perchlorate in
         | the dishwasher tabs, the heat of the dishwasher or both.
        
         | delinom wrote:
         | I am not a chemist, but the following comment from a
         | retr0bright video[1] claims that retr0bright works not by
         | reversing the process, but by speeding it up.
         | 
         |  _Interestingly, The idea that the yellowing is from the
         | Brominated Flame Retardants in the plastic is actually itself a
         | myth. It 's a sort of believable just-so story because people
         | look up bromine, see it is brown, and go "ah, makes sense". The
         | interaction doesn't actually involve the brominated Fame
         | Retardants, and is a breakdown of the butadiene chain of the
         | plastic polymer which is effectively an oxidization which is
         | catalyzed by energy (whether light (UV being the most
         | energetic), or Heat). This happens with All ABS plastics,
         | including those that don't have any Tetrobromobisphenol-A. This
         | is why UV Stabilisers and absorbers tend to be a common
         | inclusion in the formula of ABS plastic. (And why when they are
         | forgotten/omitted you see things like car recalls due to
         | seatbelt fasteners degrading). The yellowing is effectively the
         | molecular debris from that breakdown, which gives a colour to
         | the plastic. Hydrogen Peroxide is a strong oxidizer- it works
         | in retrobrite not by reversing the process, but actually
         | speeding it up. It reverses the colour change because while it
         | significantly speeds up the butadiene being broken down, it
         | also breaks down the molecular debris that results from it, to
         | smaller, colorless compounds. It will also interact with other
         | compounds in the plastic- for example, those that might have
         | been added for the factory colouring.The result is that the
         | colour of the original plastic returns- possibly without any
         | factory set colouring compounds as well. Another downside is
         | that because the butadiene chain is still compromised,
         | retrobrite can never restore the structure of the plastic, so
         | it will remain brittle. I've seen suggestions that an acid
         | might be able to chemically recompose the butadiene polymer. I
         | was able to successfully test a paste of Oxalic Acid, without
         | any sunlight exposure for example- though it took a week and
         | the colour change was very small._
         | 
         | This might explain why direct sunlight can brighten plastic
         | instead of yellowing it even more.
         | 
         | [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBS_UEV35W4
        
         | eutectic wrote:
         | Hydrogen peroxide is a very aggressive oxidizer compared to
         | molecular oxygen and will break down molecules instead of just
         | adding to them.
        
         | jstanley wrote:
         | I'd guess it strips away a thin layer of plastic to reveal the
         | non-yellowed plastic underneath.
        
           | VLM wrote:
           | Unfortunately retrobriting doesn't take off surface dirt or
           | ink or similar. Painting-like surface preparation is required
           | beforehand. Just dumping sort-of-casually clean parts in the
           | solution will lead to splotchiness and areas that don't get
           | cleaned. The official site recommends a gentle dishwasher
           | cycle, I've had luck with that.
           | 
           | In a way, its good it works that way. It doesn't strip off
           | the apple logo or "mac" lettering or whatever.
           | 
           | Your theory is reasonable but it seems its actually breaking
           | down a bromine based fire retardant. Bromine itself is kinda
           | gross brown color and some oxides like dibromine pentoxide
           | are clearish-white so its quite realistic that hitting it
           | with an oxidizer clears things up.
        
       | bena wrote:
       | This is done with Lego bricks as well. It may weaken the plastic
       | to some degree. For larger pieces of plastic it shouldn't be a
       | problem though.
        
         | hyperman1 wrote:
         | Maybe someone here can explain me something.
         | 
         | I dug up my old duplo blocks from around 1980. Most colors are
         | ok. The blue ones, however, have all gone brittle.
         | 
         | Is this normal? Why only blue?
        
         | kloch wrote:
         | I remember reading about using Brasso to de-yellow LEGO but
         | I've never tried it myself.
        
       | snvzz wrote:
       | I see the retrobright community as pure OCD.
       | 
       | Just leave it as it is. Yellow is cooler. It shows vintage class.
        
         | buescher wrote:
         | Agreed. Most antiques, you want to keep the patina, right?
        
           | tantalor wrote:
           | I think the reason for "keep the patina" is actually because
           | if you try to remove it then you will inevitably damage the
           | underlying material.
           | 
           | e.g., a very skilled art restorer can remove discolored
           | varnish
        
       ___________________________________________________________________
       (page generated 2021-09-28 23:02 UTC)