[HN Gopher] Gap acquires 3D fitting room startup Drapr
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       Gap acquires 3D fitting room startup Drapr
        
       Author : vitabenes
       Score  : 69 points
       Date   : 2021-08-30 09:26 UTC (13 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (www.retaildive.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (www.retaildive.com)
        
       | istingray wrote:
       | Owning this data myself seems worthwhile. Being able to query a
       | shop's clothes without giving up my dataset, i.e. each
       | measurement and each shirt being anonymized so the vendor can't
       | simply see all my measurements. Think there's a name for this
       | process.
        
       | endisneigh wrote:
       | Personally I don't think the issue is "3D fitting" - the issue is
       | that the sizing and fit of clothes hasn't both been: standardized
       | and quantified. Do both and a 3D fitting room wouldn't be
       | necessary to begin with.
        
         | yeldarb wrote:
         | A recent 99% Invisible dove into the history of standardized
         | sizing that was really interesting (apparently most of the data
         | on human measurements used in industry comes from US military
         | research): https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/on-average/
        
         | doikor wrote:
         | One problem with that is that not all the articles are the same
         | size. You can order 1000 t-shirts in the same size from a
         | manufacturer and not all of them will be the same size
         | (especially if you order the cheapest you can find).
         | 
         | This is mainly due to cheap fabrics stretching unevenly (roll
         | to roll difference and beginning of the roll can stretch
         | differently from the end) and if you cut them by pressing
         | through a thick stack the ones at different spots in the stack
         | stretch differently during the cut and thus end up different
         | size even if "cut" to the same size.
        
           | clipradiowallet wrote:
           | As someone totally ignorant of this industry... how can those
           | problems be fixed? Is it an issue of using higher quality
           | materials, or some factory process change?
        
             | ethbr0 wrote:
             | Inexpensive, quality of construction, reliable sizing.
             | 
             | Pick two.
        
           | rhacker wrote:
           | What if we ended up with a system where I know I'm a B29.
           | 
           | Then after every shirt made, it's tested against the B26 -
           | B34 (since it's probably somewhere in there) and then
           | labelled as a fit for B29.
           | 
           | Then I just go shopping for B29s.
        
             | bee_rider wrote:
             | You'd be mapping a multi-dimensional space to a single
             | dimensional one, which might work, but would probably be
             | less intuitive. In the very least, we'd probably want
             | something like a small/medium/large, then some extra info
             | about the shoulders, and then a little bit more info for
             | guys who want a tight fit (those guys with abs to show
             | off). You could map those all on to 26-34, but I think it
             | would not really help much.
        
               | ethbr0 wrote:
               | This is also a male / female -type body distinction.
               | 
               | I'd argue men have about 4 primary body shapes (roughly,
               | height:shoulders:waist:hips), within which most are +/- a
               | bit.
               | 
               | Women have... a lot more.
        
               | bee_rider wrote:
               | Yeah. I implicitly assumed we were talking about guys
               | because the idea of simplifying women's sizes just seems
               | intractable.
        
             | wtvanhest wrote:
             | Assuming B29 is a series of measurements, this is the right
             | solution in my opinion. The challenge is the cost of
             | measuring and tagging every item after production. The
             | relationship to model out is cost of pre-measuring every
             | garment vs cost of returns. If you could dramatically lower
             | your return rate you may be able to be more profitable
             | measuring every garment. But... even measuring successfully
             | presents challenges.
             | 
             | Going in to a store would seem absolutely insane if you
             | could just order tons of stuff in your size and it all fits
             | and you would not have to make returns.
        
             | Cd00d wrote:
             | "Sorry, B29 is a mild outlier in terms of sizing - only 5%
             | of the population wears B29 so we don't keep that in
             | stock."
             | 
             | I had this problem when I was younger with an outlier
             | waist/inseam ratio. I was only one inseam size out of
             | "normal" but had to catalog order my pants. I wonder how it
             | would work now with modern supply chain efficiencies. Back
             | then I could rely on a warehouse _somewhere_ having my
             | size, but just-in-time may not allow room for that.
             | 
             | I love the idea though. As someone who rarely finds a
             | t-shirt where I like the fit (either too tight or too
             | long), I'd love to just have something I could count on. I
             | can't even rely on just getting the same size from the same
             | store each time.
        
               | rhacker wrote:
               | If we got away from factory clothes and moved to a model
               | where someone made two or three year's worth of clothes
               | for $500 (well I guess the price would be based on your
               | packages??)
               | 
               | Then the clothing designer would input B29 and it would
               | adjust all sorts of things and print out a pattern. Then
               | the clothing designer could "test fit" the final shirt on
               | a really cool adjustomatic mannequin made of weird
               | pistons and balloons. Ok that last part is unlikely to
               | happen but it sounds awesome.
        
               | msandford wrote:
               | > If we got away from factory clothes and moved to a
               | model where someone made two or three year's worth of
               | clothes for $500
               | 
               | Lovely idea but what do the poor fools do whose weights
               | are going up and down? I mean I know that's not 80% of
               | the population on a given year but there is some value to
               | being able to buy just a few garments at a time that fit
               | approximately correctly right now, even if they won't
               | really in another six months.
        
         | mint2 wrote:
         | Actually one of the issues is also standardization.
         | 
         | Finding someone that is average on just four or five dimensions
         | is extremely rare. Bucketing people into a handful of clusters
         | and taking those averages is only a marginal improvement.
         | Brands standardizing to those same clusters make it impossible
         | for many people to find fitting clothes.
         | 
         | It's just like shoes. For a given length, at most about 30-40%
         | of the foot widths can be accommodated without offering
         | multiple widths. And most shoes only come in one width.
        
         | brandall10 wrote:
         | Body types vary widely though. If you're athletic you may have
         | a strong shoulder to hip drop, getting shirts that are blousy
         | in the midsection. Conversely, if you're heavy set or short you
         | may get garments that are overly long.
         | 
         | Some companies do try to address this to a degree with slim or
         | athletic cuts, and yes a tailor could take you the rest of the
         | way 'mostly' there, but the future of clothing is 3D scanning
         | and printing.
        
           | mbesto wrote:
           | > Body types vary widely though.
           | 
           | The GP is more referring to companies who deliberately don't
           | conform to standards. Best example of this is women's
           | clothing that alter sizes so they are more appealing to women
           | who don't traditionally fit that size number.
           | 
           | TL;DR - "Omg I finally fit in a size 2 dress" is a huge
           | selling point, even if its not categorically true.
        
           | endisneigh wrote:
           | A 3D fitting room isn't going to solve the issues you mention
           | tho.
           | 
           | I also think what you're describing could be easily solved
           | with more measurements of clothing you're considering.
        
             | zokier wrote:
             | 3D fitting is first step for custom fitted to order
             | clothes, like Amazons "Made for You" t-shirts
             | https://www.businessinsider.com/amazon-custom-fit-t-
             | shirts-u...
        
           | ch4s3 wrote:
           | I can't imagine 3D printing clothing working for most kinds
           | of garments any time soon. Just mechanically stitching
           | straight seams with a robot has proven to be nearly
           | impossible. It might be economically feasible to laser cut
           | some fabrics and drive down MTM costs, but you can already do
           | that fairly cheaply with existing tech.
        
           | mc32 wrote:
           | As exemplified by the old threadbase post: https://web.archiv
           | e.org/web/20160318074519/threadbase.com/un...
           | 
           | The sizes vary within brands themselves.
           | 
           | Traditionally the solution was to get a tailor take your
           | measurements and make a pattern for you and cut from cloth to
           | make you a garment. Obviously, in today's day and age, that
           | gets a bit expensive for most people.
        
             | bluGill wrote:
             | I'm waiting the day when I go into a store and the fitting
             | room scans my body (naked or just underwear) and then it
             | creates an outfit just for my body. We could probably pull
             | it off already, but it can't compete with third world
             | produced on price, and those are good enough.
        
               | mc32 wrote:
               | I think there have been failed attempts at this over the
               | past 20 years or so. If you're willing to wait, they
               | could do this somewhat affordably --just won't be off the
               | rack fast (week or two?)
               | 
               | That said, a tailor will make you pose properly and not
               | slouch or droop your shoulder, so they would take better
               | measurements. Presumably, SW could correct for bad
               | posture as well.
        
               | ethbr0 wrote:
               | Measurement is easy. Even the elastic deformation (i.e.
               | multiple poses).
               | 
               | Manufacturing at scale is currently impossible.
               | 
               | Tailoring is basically robotics' worst nightmare: input
               | material with varying characteristics from batch to
               | batch, delicate materials, multiple different motions and
               | tasks, a non-reducible movement and orientation space
               | (e.g. sew a hem along a curve), and a complex mapping
               | between physical tasks and end result (different stitch
               | on seam = different motion).
               | 
               | We'll get there (and if it weren't for low cost labor,
               | would already be there for t-shirts). But it's _really_
               | hard.
        
             | mikepurvis wrote:
             | There are companies working on scaling this kind of thing,
             | though:
             | 
             | https://www.indochino.com/suits/fit
             | 
             | That one is a "measure at home" affair, but I've also heard
             | tell of ones where there's a pop up at a co-working space
             | or whatever, and you go get measured, pick your fabrics,
             | and get the shirts in the mail a few weeks later.
             | 
             | Cost-wise, it's definitely more than getting them at a
             | department store, but it's not ridiculously more. Think
             | like 2-3x rather than 10x.
        
         | dragonwriter wrote:
         | > Personally I don't think the issue is "3D fitting" - the
         | issue is that the sizing and fit of clothes hasn't both been:
         | standardized and quantified.
         | 
         | Yes, it has. The problem is that nontrivial clothing requires
         | multidimensional fit which is impractical for mass-produced
         | off-the-rack clothing, and marketing of mass-produced clothes
         | is therefore driven by all kinds of things, none of which is
         | using the well-established standardization and quantification
         | of fit, which is used only by people making bespoke clothing or
         | altering off-the-rack clothes for specific individuals.
         | 
         | Of course, unless it is paired by on-demand alteration, 3D
         | fitting doesn't really address that problem.
         | 
         | But its not meant to (though the for-the-public image may be
         | that), its to deal with the problem that taking clothes to
         | actual fitting rooms increases handling, damage, theft losses,
         | and the resulting policing and remerchandising is a major
         | source of labor requirements for shops.
         | 
         | For the Gap, the problem this hopes to solve, or at least
         | mitigate, is "retail employees".
        
           | TaylorAlexander wrote:
           | As technology advances, it becomes easier for us to
           | standardize and quantize the fit of clothes in increasing
           | dimensions. And so instead of one product having a certain
           | cut and then it's just got a few sizes, we could have a
           | continuously variable design which could be produced in
           | 10,000 sizes. Stores could carry popular sizes but any
           | prospective buyer could check if they have their ideal fit
           | range in stock in any items, or could order the correct size
           | by mail.
           | 
           | Of course the garment industry is still heavily reliant on
           | human labor for manufacture and the model I describe would
           | really only work if the process is basically fully automated.
           | But it would be nice if my clothes didn't rely on
           | marginalized labor in Bangladesh so I'd like a fully
           | automated source.
           | 
           | Anyway you're not wrong that it's impractical with the
           | current way of doing things, but it seems fully automated
           | clothing production is advancing, so perhaps in 20 years it
           | will be possible.
        
           | na85 wrote:
           | >Yes, it has.
           | 
           | It most certainly has not. Even in men's legwear where your
           | clothing is more or less fully defined by two measurements
           | (waist circumference and inseam length), there are lots of
           | variations between brands for garments with the same nominal
           | size.
           | 
           | I have 2 pairs of billabong board shorts that are slightly
           | too big and fall down if I don't cinch the drawstrings extra
           | tight. Size 34 waist.
           | 
           | I have another 2 pairs of o'neill shorts that fit perfectly
           | and don't fall down even if I don't lace up the drawstring at
           | all. Size 34 waist.
           | 
           | Let's not even get into women's clothing where you can have
           | such ill-defined terms like "size zero".
        
             | hn_user82179 wrote:
             | Agreed, and that's also not taking into account vanity
             | sizing, where the differences in sizes is on purpose
        
             | phil_e_delphian wrote:
             | I've started selecting for brands that have more
             | information than those two measurements. Seat and taper are
             | more helpful, for instance.
             | 
             | More casual button-downs are also very frustrating, as
             | sleeve length and chest circumference aren't provided
             | accurately for S vs M vs L
        
             | noja wrote:
             | > Size 34 waist.
             | 
             | If you want an extra shock: measure your waist. It's not 34
             | inches!
        
             | gruez wrote:
             | >Let's not even get into women's clothing where you can
             | have such ill-defined terms like "size zero".
             | 
             | size zero at least makes sense if it's the smallest, and
             | they're using zero based indexing. It really gets
             | ridiculous when they have size 00.
        
         | ghaff wrote:
         | Sizing is pretty quantified. A tailor has specific measurements
         | they make. (Presumably women's clothing is the same.) One
         | problem is that you end up with a huge number of permutations,
         | no one is "average"[0], people have different preferences when
         | it comes to the type of fit, etc.
         | 
         | This sort of thing has been being talked about for 20+ years.
         | The problems include that you're probably never going to get to
         | the equivalent of a tailored suit--even after taking all their
         | measurements, tailors often will make some final adjustments.
         | On the other hand, most people are fine with their day to day
         | polo shirts, T-shirts, and trousers being off the rack without
         | paying double/triple or whatever for customization.
         | 
         | [0] https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/on-average/
        
           | BugsJustFindMe wrote:
           | > _Sizing is pretty quantified._
           | 
           | Sort of, but it's all fake if you don't have the right QC
           | strictness at manufacture. People like to joke about "fake
           | size numbers" and "S/M/L" and "different style cuts", but
           | forget about that and focus on waist and inseam measurements
           | for a moment.
           | 
           | Men's pants have been labeled with waist and inseam
           | measurements in inches forever, and, differences person to
           | person and brand to brand entirely aside, the same brand of
           | pants in the same style in the same color with the same size
           | label on the same day can have different actual waist
           | circumferences by more than half an inch so that one pair
           | will fit _you_ and another won't fit _you_ because their
           | assembly tolerance is higher than your fit tolerance.
        
           | endisneigh wrote:
           | Sizing isn't really quantified at all. Brands use vague terms
           | like "Small, Medium, and Large" that aren't even consistent
           | within the brand, and depend on the cut and particular style.
        
             | ghaff wrote:
             | Mass-produced clothing sizing is certainly inexact. But the
             | body measurements for an individual are reasonably well
             | specified.
        
               | mint2 wrote:
               | What does "body measurements for an individual are
               | specified" mean? Like body measurements on the size
               | charts are specified? Those don't tell one of the
               | clothing will fit, only that there's a possibility it
               | will fit. And in reality the ranges they give are far too
               | wide.
               | 
               | And one can specify their body measurements all they
               | like, but it barely helps selecting a size online or even
               | in store.
        
           | geoduck14 wrote:
           | >being off the rack without paying double/triple or whatever
           | for customization.
           | 
           | I bought a suit a while back - they tailored it (pants and
           | jacket) for <$20. This is "really expensive" if it is a $10
           | t-shirt, but not that bad if it is an $80 point-down shirt,
           | and even reasonable if it is a $200 pant/jacket combo
        
             | ghaff wrote:
             | That seems cheap for tailoring in the US. I don't really
             | wear suits or even blazers any longer but, when I did, I'd
             | either get them custom-made in Asia or extensively tailored
             | in the US. Haven't done that for ages though.
             | 
             | I was mostly referring to day-to-day wear that's $10-40 or
             | so off the rack.
        
               | dehrmann wrote:
               | > I'd either get them custom-made in Asia
               | 
               | I'm selfishly disappointed China's takeover of Hong Kong
               | because it gives me very mixed feeling about getting
               | suits from there. They do amazing work, but supporting
               | them is, in a sense, supporting China's takeover, even if
               | the shop had nothing to do with it.
        
         | ezekg wrote:
         | This is especially true for Gap. Their sizing is bonkers
         | compared to the norm. I stopped shopping there a long time ago
         | because it was too much of a hassle to go and try things on in
         | person. Instead, I order online from retailers that have
         | consistent sizing and that I know fit me well.
        
       | noja wrote:
       | Zozo solved this with the Zozosuit:
       | https://corp.zozo.com/en/news/20201029-6375/ (that is version 2).
       | 
       | You wear a ridiculous looking figure-hugging suit and scan
       | yourself with their app. Then you don't wear the suit again
       | (unless you change shape). Version 2 of the suit looks much less
       | silly.
       | 
       | Now you can order what you want and it's for your size!
       | 
       | It does works, but... make sure you know exactly what you want.
       | e.g. do you want a closer fit? Looser fit?
        
       | gootler wrote:
       | Nobody cares. I walk around in my underwear all day thanks to
       | China's Covid!
        
       | wombatmobile wrote:
       | What problem/s does 3D fitting room solve?
       | 
       | What problem/s does 3D fitting room introduce?
        
         | Youden wrote:
         | In theory, it works to bridge the gap between an in-person
         | visit to a clothes store and an online shopping experience like
         | Amazon.
         | 
         | When you buy clothes online, you can only see images of the
         | clothes and see them on other people. You can't really tell how
         | they'd look and fit on you.
         | 
         | When you buy clothes in a store, you can try them on but you're
         | left with the selection of a physical store (e.g. it might not
         | have your size, you might want a different colour).
         | 
         | With a virtual fitting room, you can, at least in theory, get
         | the best of both worlds: a large selection of items and the
         | ability to see how they fit on you.
         | 
         | After going shopping with my wife recently, I came up with a
         | dream for how the experience of clothes shopping would be in
         | the future and a virtual fitting room fits into that vision:
         | 
         | - You digitize your body (e.g. by visiting a store with a body
         | scanner)
         | 
         | - You browse a catalog, on a computer or phone at home or
         | perhaps on some kind of AR mirror in a store (this is where the
         | virtual fitting room fits in)
         | 
         | - You have the items you like the most delivered either to your
         | home or to the store
         | 
         | - You try them on for a final check
         | 
         | - You keep the ones you like and return the ones you don't
         | (either by post if you're at home or just hand them back if
         | you're in-store)
         | 
         | Depending on the specifications available to the retailer, the
         | virtual fitting could also do analysis of the garment and your
         | body to tell you how good a fit it is. The CAD packages
         | available for patternmaking have stress analysis which can show
         | where the garment is too tight or too loose and that could be
         | displayed to the customer based on their own measurements.
         | 
         | The same concept could also be used to eliminate sizes from the
         | customer's mind. The store could use the customer's
         | measurements and the technical details of the garment to
         | automatically supply the best-fitting size.
        
         | mint2 wrote:
         | The problem I've seen with all the online fit systems is they
         | tell you the closest size even if it's a horrible fit, they
         | never tell you the brand's sizes aren't good for you.
        
         | deanclatworthy wrote:
         | Presumably what is my number one issue with online clothes
         | shopping, and why I have and never will do it - sizing and
         | perception.
         | 
         | 1) Sizing - ordering multiple sizes so you get the right one is
         | not a sustainable or environmentally friendly way of purchasing
         | clothes online.
         | 
         | 2) Perception - looking at a good-looking, slim person trying
         | on clothes is not representative of most people. I've seen
         | plenty of clothes look good on a mannequin look awful on me.
         | Wish I could say vice-versa, but the mannequins don't talk
         | back.
        
           | tomnipotent wrote:
           | > is not a sustainable or environmentally friendly
           | 
           | These products need to be shipped to the U.S., usually by
           | boat, where freight trucks haul them to warehouses before
           | another set of freight trucks deliver product to storefronts
           | which have giant parking lots next to them so customers can
           | drive their gas cars to park in them. Let's not talk about
           | all the unsold waste.
           | 
           | I'm open to options.
        
           | wombatmobile wrote:
           | What does the back end look like?
           | 
           | Is every garment custom made, or selected from inventory?
        
             | deanclatworthy wrote:
             | I've no idea. I've never bought clothing online and don't
             | trust these services either (yet).
        
             | [deleted]
        
           | mint2 wrote:
           | On 2) perception. Not only are the models typically in the
           | top 1% of fitness fit with 40" chests and 31" waists and six
           | packs, but it's rare they're under 5"11 despite the median
           | male height being 5'9".
           | 
           | So all in all the male clothes models usually look like just
           | a fraction of a fraction of the population and that fraction
           | is all outliers in no way representative of a typical
           | shopper.
        
           | sumtechguy wrote:
           | Even sizing can be 'odd' sometimes. I can many times grab 2
           | different items the only difference supposedly is color. One
           | will fit the other will have weird spots that dont. I
           | basically have to try everything on before I buy it.
           | Otherwise I am just going to have to return it immediately.
           | That is currently easier in a store than playing the mail it
           | back game.
           | 
           | If I were ordering custom sized cloths then _maybe_ this
           | would be useful. Neat for sure. But I am not seeing the
           | usefulness because of the wild inconsistencies in most
           | cloths.
        
         | dogman144 wrote:
         | > What problem/s does 3D fitting room introduce?
         | 
         | Nasty PII leaks
        
       | bingohbangoh wrote:
       | No amounts mentioned. Can I assume it was a pittance then?
        
         | yccc wrote:
         | If they're an acquisition target this early in their life then
         | it must be because of potential, not inability to raise money,
         | as being a part of YC would make it straight forward to raise
         | capital to continue to identify business opportunities (if they
         | were struggling). I'd be very surprised if it was under 20m.
        
         | emptysea wrote:
         | Crunchbase says they only raised $125k so even if they were
         | acquired for a few million, they likely made out okay.
        
           | the-dude wrote:
           | That seems to be the YC batch amount.
        
       | RcouF1uZ4gsC wrote:
       | > by showing them how an item will actually look on their body
       | 
       | This is only half of the equation, and I find a lot of people are
       | ignoring - mainly because it seems intractable.
       | 
       | As important as how an item of clothing looks on my body, is how
       | it feels on my body. Does it constrict when I move. Am I able to
       | sit, stand, and walk comfortably in it?
       | 
       | Some times a piece of clothing can look perfect, if I am standing
       | rigidly like a mannequin, but it is highly uncomfortable with any
       | movement.
        
       | yeldarb wrote:
       | Congrats guys!
       | 
       | For those who don't know, Drapr was a YC co from last summer's
       | batch: https://www.ycombinator.com/companies/drapr
        
       | neverywhere wrote:
       | This seems to be an acquihire? IF you wanted to get a high
       | valuation you would have stuck it out by yourself longer I would
       | think?
        
         | tootie wrote:
         | I worked at a big retail company a few years that was desperate
         | to make investments in tech. Probably didn't help that HQ was
         | in Silicon Valley. They ended acquiring a 3D company for a
         | similar purpose to Gap only the company was actually a total
         | mismatch for what they intended. They produced 3D models, but
         | not actual usable software. The tech leadership internally
         | advised against the acquisition but the CEO did it anyway. Then
         | we had to pivot them to basically build what we wanted from
         | scratch with no clear market need. AFAIK, it's been languishing
         | for a few years.
        
         | dehrmann wrote:
         | Gap, Inc. also has a collection of dying brands and is a little
         | desperate. Gap and Banana Republic are stale. I guess Old Navy
         | is doing OK. Google trends says Athleta seems to do OK, but
         | it's a second-rate Lululemon.
        
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       (page generated 2021-08-30 23:02 UTC)