[HN Gopher] Voltage, Amps, Resistance and LEDs
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       Voltage, Amps, Resistance and LEDs
        
       Author : ingve
       Score  : 57 points
       Date   : 2021-06-16 06:49 UTC (3 days ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (blog.demofox.org)
 (TXT) w3m dump (blog.demofox.org)
        
       | readingnews wrote:
       | I really mean no offense, but for the love of electrons, please
       | stop saying things like: "Amps are measured in amperes". Current
       | is measured in Amperes. It is like being a cook and instead of
       | saying you need one cup of water, you ask for one cup of one cup.
       | You would not do that. Ergo, your title should read Voltage,
       | Current, Resistance and LEDs.
        
         | tyingq wrote:
         | Perhaps a more accurate analogy would be saying "kilos are
         | measured in kilograms".
        
           | Atrix256 wrote:
           | Fixed this typo and i get what you mean how "one is not like
           | the other" in the title.
        
         | wl wrote:
         | I'm not measuring anything but current in amperes. There's
         | plenty of things I can measure in cups besides water.
        
       | sobriquet9 wrote:
       | Fixed voltage drop on an LED is too much of a simplification for
       | this application. A better mental model is to imagine a piecewise
       | linear approximation of current-voltage characteristic aka I-V
       | curve.
       | 
       | I-V curve of a resistor is a straight line that goes through
       | (0,0) point, with slope inversely proportional to resistance. The
       | curve for LED has a bend somewhere between 1.5V and 2V, where its
       | slope changes from low to high.
        
         | compiler-guy wrote:
         | And yet it is exactly how many hobbyists approach the topic,
         | and quite successfully. Not that he does hint at these curves
         | when he talks about how running it at lower current will make
         | it less bright.
        
           | sobriquet9 wrote:
           | My problem with the way the topic is being presented here is
           | not just that the mental model is too simple, but that it is
           | so much simplified that it becomes internally inconsistent.
           | 
           | Resistance is voltage over current, here's LED, it does not
           | have resistance. Or maybe it has more than one resistance,
           | depending on voltage.
           | 
           | Battery is a voltage source, wait, no it's not, it has
           | internal resistance.
        
       | dekhn wrote:
       | a lot of electronics tutorials start with resistors and
       | capacitors and have you build RC circuits and measure their
       | decay, but I found that a diode-first class makes a lot more
       | sense.
       | 
       | Once I discovered constant current controllers, I started to have
       | real fun with LEDs. Sure, you can use a resistor to drop voltage
       | but that's just spewing heat. Switched Constant current
       | controllers are much more elegant not very hot at all and have
       | excellent control over intensity.
       | 
       | These days I typically run LEDs at _half_ their rated current;
       | they are still plenty bright and run FAR cooler than max current.
        
       | carapace wrote:
       | This is almost physically painful to read.
       | 
       | Before I rant off, let me link to a _good_ resource for learning
       | about electricity: http://amasci.com/miscon/whatis.html -or-
       | http://amasci.com/miscon/elect.html
       | 
       | First, don't buy electronics from Amazon (or anything from Amazon
       | really) buy from a reputable source like Digikey or Mouser.
       | 
       | Second, please don't try to explain electricity if you don't know
       | what you're talking about. There are enough misconceptions about
       | electricity (see amasci links above) without adding more noise
       | and half-baked understanding.
        
         | JKCalhoun wrote:
         | Mouser, Digikey are great but, wow, the cost of shipping and
         | time to get parts delivered is painful. For the hobbyist that
         | just wants a shift register to play with their Arduino they're
         | a tough sell.
         | 
         | Maybe SparkFun or Adafruit are better recommendations?
        
           | boredprograming wrote:
           | SparkFun and Adafruit are great, but they're for casuals. If
           | you're building breadboard prototypes there's nothing better
           | than Digikey and Mouser.
        
             | compiler-guy wrote:
             | The disdain for casual hobbyists you show here implies that
             | you are probably not the target audience for the article,
             | which is targeted even lower than hobbyists: people who
             | need an early introduction. Professionals have very
             | different needs than hobbyists and therefore need different
             | materials and suppliers.
        
               | boredprograming wrote:
               | Eh true. And it's not disdain, those companies are great
               | for what they do. The guy above just implied they sucked,
               | which isn't the case. They're great for their target
               | market
        
         | amichal wrote:
         | I tried to read your links above. The first spends over 80% of
         | the article telling everyone how stupid they are and then
         | presents 5 different definitions of "electricity" and then
         | ANOTHER rant about how they are all wrong and finally a list of
         | other articles about various related concepts. If I were a
         | trained EE I would be turned off by the unnecessary ranting. As
         | a grade school level hobbyist I have learned nothing that will
         | help me connect some batteries and LEDs in a useful way.
         | 
         | Same thing for Digikey and Mouser. I've tried to use them to
         | buy a educational kit, set of parts for screwing around with on
         | my desk. Can't figure it out. Here is what i get looking for
         | "kits" at digikey
         | (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/miscellaneous/657).
         | 
         | Amazon has sadly replaced Radio Shack in this space. I have
         | half a dozen FUN kits on my shelf I ordered there from a coin
         | cell battery "toothbrush" robot up to one with bluetooth, USB,
         | ultrasonic, "AI" cameras and all the other fun bit. I even have
         | a SMD solder practice board that cost me 5 dollars and after
         | stressing like mad that I needed to buy some special solder,
         | flux, iron etc I decided I'd give me old butane powered iron
         | and the "High-tech Silver-bearing" solid I got 20 years ago
         | from RS a try and use my cellphone as a microscope. Works fine.
         | 49 of 50 0603 resistors tested fine on the first try.
         | 
         | It's tempting for folks with lots of experience and
         | understanding to look down on beginners or fear they will miss
         | some deep understanding if they learn the wrong metaphors or
         | tools early on. Its fine, my daughter at age 5 thought
         | variables where 'bags' that could hold numbers or letters (some
         | of them only worked with one thing or the other). It doesn't
         | describe the memory model of a modern computer correctly at all
         | but it works well enough that she can write some games for
         | herself a few years later. If she continues to have an interest
         | she can go read "data sheets".
        
         | tyingq wrote:
         | The US Navy's "NEETS" material is pretty good as well.
         | 
         | http://www.compatt.com/Tutorials/NEETS/NEETS.html
        
         | midnightclubbed wrote:
         | Why the hate on Amazon? I can understand why you may want to
         | discourage shopping from Amazon in general but is there a
         | reason why they are particularly bad for electronics?
         | 
         | As a hobbyist (with an EEE background) I seldom have an order
         | that is large enough to make the mouser/digikey shipping costs
         | palatable. If I need something quick (forgot a particular
         | component) then Amazon often works great, although the 'free'
         | shipping means everything is going to be at least $10. If you
         | area business then Mouser etc are the place to go, but you'll
         | also have a business account with friendlier credit and
         | shipping terms.
         | 
         | For hobbyists it is really difficult to beat Aliexpress. Long
         | shipping times but you can order a whole slew of components and
         | stock up on things you might want to try out in the future. Yes
         | you have to pick through potential counterfeits and you may get
         | the odd broken board/component but I'm not sure that is very
         | different from mouser, digikey, spark fun etc?
        
           | boredprograming wrote:
           | I've had bad experiences with counterfeit components on
           | AliExpress. It's rare to get anything real and unused.
        
         | omreaderhn wrote:
         | I'm a software engineer that dabbles in electronics. I have
         | been looking for explanations like that for about 20 years.
        
         | croo wrote:
         | Best resource I found so far on the subject is the
         | allaboutcircuits webpage:
         | https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/
        
         | CapitalistCartr wrote:
         | I do this professionally, and his description is exactly how we
         | do it, except I have a $400 Fluke meter. A bit of testing and
         | basic arithmetic, some searching on Amazon, and I have some
         | LEDs and resistors next day. Because 64 volt electronics are
         | hard to come by.
        
         | dekhn wrote:
         | I work with hobbyist electronics and I don't see the problem
         | with Amazon. Can you be more specific?
        
           | willis936 wrote:
           | Counterfeits, mostly. You will never find a legitimately
           | sourced component on amazon.
           | 
           | Maybe that doesn't matter to some people, but it guarantees
           | GIGO.
        
             | rytis wrote:
             | For people like me who can't remember all 100k acronyms:
             | "GIGO" is "Garbage In, Garbage Out".
             | 
             | I agree with the sentiment though - a lot of stuff on
             | Amazon are not exactly what is written on the tin, and so
             | when you read official spec of a component you may get
             | stuff that's way off - noisy opamps, that sort of thing.
        
         | sobriquet9 wrote:
         | Writing an article about a subject that you are studying and
         | getting other people to point out the mistakes is actually a
         | pretty good way to learn.
        
           | guenthert wrote:
           | But does it have to be on the Internet for all to see?
        
             | EricE wrote:
             | I see - the author stood behind you and forced you to not
             | only click on the article, but this hacker news thread and
             | also forced you to comment too. Yes, that is horrible!
        
             | sobriquet9 wrote:
             | How else can you get other people to comment on it, if they
             | can't see it?
             | 
             | Once you fix the mistakes, what's wrong with leaving it up?
        
               | Atrix256 wrote:
               | Plus notice no mistakes were called out. It was just
               | "don't buy parts from amazon".
        
         | Dzugaru wrote:
         | I'd add the MIT 6.002 Circuits and Electronics course available
         | on Youtube. It's been immensely helpful for me starting
         | experiments with Raspberry PI GPIO.
        
       | fallingfrog wrote:
       | Fun fact: When you accelerate an electron across a potential of
       | 4.5 volts, and then stop it suddenly, you get a photon with 4.5
       | electron volts of energy. That's why different colors have
       | different voltage drops.
       | 
       | So a blue LED has about a 4.5 volt voltage drop, and a red LED
       | has about a 2.2 volt drop. And a blue photon has about 4.5
       | electron volts of energy, at a wavelength of around 350nm, and a
       | red photon has about 2.2 electron volts, at a wavelength of about
       | 600nm.
        
         | JKCalhoun wrote:
         | Thank you. I had understood that the wavelength of an LED
         | correlated with the voltage drop but did not know why.
         | 
         | (I had just assumed it was a characteristic of the physical
         | materials needed to obtain the various colors.)
        
         | tyingq wrote:
         | Expanding on that a bit, generally, the shorter the wavelength
         | the higher the voltage drop. So UV leds have the the highest,
         | followed by violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, red, then
         | infrared. Then white being a special case since it's typically
         | 3 leds (r/g/b) and not one.
        
         | jpmattia wrote:
         | > _Fun fact: When you accelerate an electron across a potential
         | of 4.5 volts, and then stop it suddenly, you get a photon with
         | 4.5 electron volts of energy. That's why different colors have
         | different voltage drops._
         | 
         | This explanation does violence to conservation of momentum,
         | since \hbar / \lambda is miniscule for the photon compared to
         | the electron. The correct explanation involves recombination
         | with a hole across the bandgap, which is how momentum is
         | conserved in the interaction, and the motion of the electron is
         | not involved other than transport for electrons to find holes
         | for recombining.
        
       | tyingq wrote:
       | It might be a good idea to talk about PWM in the article, since
       | so many devices drive LEDs with PWM. With PWM, you typically run
       | higher current than the 20ma mentioned in the article...just not
       | continuously.
        
       | zokier wrote:
       | One thing to note that LEDs do not really have constant voltage
       | drop across them, i.e. they very much are not ideal diodes.
       | Typically LED datasheets have two curves that are of interest:
       | current vs voltage curve (IV curve, typically roughly
       | exponential) and light output vs current curve.
        
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