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The Soul of a Pedicab Driver
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by Carl Etnier
Spoke Divider
Quadracycle
Pedicabbing doesn't make me a better person. By trying to become a
better person, however, I am becoming a better pedicab chauffeur.
This is the story of a little spiritual journey I've taken over the
last year, stimulated in part by my pedicabbing.
I am by hobby a pedicab chauffeur in Oslo. Last year I drove a
Chinese cycle rickshaw with 7 gears, while dressed in a tuxedo top
and black cycling shorts or tights. This year I bought a Quadracycle
(from Indiana, USA), a bright red four-wheeled vehicle that looks a
lot like a pedal-powered dune buggy or Model -T, depending on whether
the roof canopy is on or not. Though I'm originally from the U.S., I
put on a pseudo-British accent when I cycle and go by the nom de
velocipede "Charles Armstrong."
When I started pedicabbing, I found it both lucrative and personally
rewarding. My friends characterize me as a happy, cheerful person.
When I drive a pedicab, that attitude becomes quite infectious. The
experience of riding in a pedicab is so exotic and fun that
passengers often start laughing the moment we start moving, and
sometimes laugh all the way to the destination. Passersby share in
the pleasure, smiling with amusement at the sight of a tuxedoed man
furiously pedaling a human-powered "car." Even car and bus drivers
grin and yell encouraging remarks. Friends who I have taken on
pleasure rides comment on how happy everyone in Oslo seems, when seen
from the seat of a pedicab.
At the same time, I found that pedicabbing could be very stressful.
Dressed in a funny costume, driving a funny vehicle, I am vulnerable,
an inviting target for everyone who feels a need to vent some
frustration or just get some attention. Since I am mostly out on
Friday and Saturday nights, and this is Norway, there is no shortage
of drunks who fll that bill. Pedicabbing was full of everything from
small annoyances--like people who grab on to the vehicle to stop it
while I'm struggling up a hill, or deliberately jump out in front of
it--to threatened and, once, actual violence. Nothing terribly
serious, but it did not increase my joy in life when a drunk giant
shook the whole vehicle while bellowing threats, or I got a hard rap
in the head from a member of a gang of kids who had just run away
from the fare.
These everyday stresses took their toll on me, and I found quickly
that the problems compounded themselves. After particularly
unpleasant encounters, I didn't have the reserves of cheerfulness
left to play the good-spirited chauffeur that Charles should be. Even
very small things--like the sort of people I meet twenty times a
night, who yell out "can you take me to Bergen?" or some other place
tens or hundreds of kilometers away, and then laugh uproariously at
their own wit--got under my skin. I found myself needing to quit for
the evening more often from psychical fatigue than physical
exhaustion.
As I recognized this pattern, I began to plan ways to conserve my
psychical energy, both directly and indirectly. Since body and soul
are intimately connected, I made sure to take short breaks for food
and drink every hour and a half or so, whether I felt a need for it
or not. When stress was high, I'd disappear to some quiet spot I
knew, preferably by the water, and spend a few minutes in quite
meditation, trying to find my center again. Before long, I was also
scheduling "preventive" meditation together with my food and water
breaks.
These measures worked, as far as they went. I realized one night this
last summer, however, that I needed more than that. I had dropped off
some passengers at the bar Barock, and was about to head back to my
usual "taxi stand" when a couple women in their early 20s climbed
aboard and wanted a ride, for free. It's not unusual for women of
that age to try to mooch a free ride while fluttering their
eyelashes, but these were more insistent than flirtatious. I told
them my minimum was 20 crowns (US$2.70) per person. They objected
strenuously, yet they wouldn't get out.
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Demand here is high enough that I normally turn down fares rather
than go under my minimum, because of the opportunity cost--taking two
people for a total of 30 crowns means that I can't take the group of
four for 100 crowns that I meet a couple minutes later. These women
refused to get out, however, so we compromised on 20 crowns total for
a very short ride to the National Theater, maybe 100 meters away.
When we got there, they demanded to be taken to the Lipp, baranother
200 or so meters away and a little uphill, for the same fare. I have
no patience for people who first refuse to get out of my vehicle when
I tell them we can't make a deal, and then try to take 300 meters and
a hill when I give them 100 meters. I told them it would be 20 per
person to Lipp or the ride would end where we were. When they
accepted neither, I tried a tactic that usually works with undesired
passengers--I sped away in the opposite direction to that they wished
to go in. After 100 meters of that, they still weren't prepared to
get out, and it was starting to get uphill in that direction, also.
After braking as suddenly as I could, I simply ordered them to get
out. When they still sat contemptuously, I took away the cigarette
from one of them and threw it on the ground under the pedicab, once
more telling them to get out. They said that they would get out, but
first I had to crouch under the vehicle and retrieve the cigarette. I
would have none of that, of course, so finally I took each of them by
the arm and, gently but firmly, removed them from the pedicab, as the
expletives hailed over me. It could have been a lot worse if they had
physically resisted, but I was still shaken by the whole thing. I
cycled over to a quiet corner by a fountain and took many minutes to
regain my calm. It took a lot longer time to calm down after the
confrontation than it would have to drive the women to Lipp.
There's got to be a better way to handle things like this, I thought.
I recalled my big, jolly friend Ole Jan, who had pedicabbed with me
last fall, when we both were on rented rickshaws. As we were getting
ready, a disheveled, unwashed street woman, flying high with the glue
she reeked of, tried to force her way into my apartment building
after us. Repelled from the door, she sat herself in Ole Jan's
pedicab and was still there when we returned. I would have removed
her with persuasion or some sort of firmness before pedalling away,
but Ole Jan let her sit there as he followed me up to our taxi stand.
Halfway there, I looked back and Ole Jan was gone. When he caught up
to me later, he explained that he had taken her on a detour to the
railway station, announced that they had arrived, and courteously
given his hand to help her out of the pedicab. She accepted the help
and proudly alighted on the sidewalk, just as if that was where she
had intended to go all along. What a way to handle the problem!
What would Ole Jan have done with the two insolent young moochers?
I haven't seen him since this summer to ask him, but I've got a
better idea now of what I would do. My friend Knut Einar, who got me
started in pedicabbing by renting me his rickshaws last year, told me
that he would have taken the women to Lipp and told them that if they
don't want to pay the standard fare there, he'd rather they pay
nothing at all and just live with the shame of having cheated him.
Knut Einar says that he expects 19 of 20 trips to go well, and
someone will attempt to cheat him or something on the twentieth. If
and when that happens, then he just shrugs it off as part of the cost
of doing business.
I read recently that burn-out in work is a function of expectations.
Some people in very trying jobs, like working with addicts and street
people, can work for decades without burnout, because they have no
illusions about human nature. They don't let themselves be
disappointed by setbacks, don't expect everything to go well. Knut
Einar is a deacon in the Lutheran church and has spent much of his
professional time caring for the poorer aged and other hard-off
people in Oslo. Hmm. I was seeing some connections.
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PedicabBy the time Knut Einar and I talked, I had already begun
modifying my modus operandi as a pedicab chauffeur. It had been
pretty good from the beginning, but needed some fine-tuning. From the
start I had had a Robin Hood philosophy, often taking lower fares
from students and young people and giving free rides to kids in the
neighborhood. I had tried to make myself a part of the street life of
Oslo, taking the time to talk to the Kurds selling roses, the
bouncers at some bars, and others, and visiting with people who just
wanted to talk about the vehicle. I even struck up a light
relationship with a single mother and heroin addict who panhandles
regularly, giving her a free ride sometimes and keeping up with her
progress in trying to overcome her addiction and put her life back
together.
I also tried to make Charles quite civil. When some of my passengers
rudely shouted or swore at pedestrians to get out of the way, I
politely but firmly told them to keep quiet and let me clear the way
with a little ringing of the bell and shouts of "Taxi! Coming
through, please! Thank you!"
Still, I was also quite concerned about making the time on the street
pay. When I quoted a fare to a place, I was thinking about the time
as well as the effort. If people wanted to stop to talk to friends
or--much worse--to stand in line for a hot dog or automatic teller
machine, I soon became impatient. When people wanted to ride for free
or almost nothing, I waved them off summarily. I didn't ignore them,
as I did the people who shouted from across the street that they
wanted to go to Trondheim, but I didn't exactly suffer them gladly,
either.
I decided to let go a little, to sacrifice some income per hour for
the sake of giving people a more fun ride and myself peace of mind.
After all, for almost all my passengers, it is their first time ever
in a pedicab. They should have a completely fun experience, not feel
that they are in conflict with the chauffeur.
At the same time, I was realizing that pedestrians don't understand
how much control I have over my wheels. I've always been pretty
careful, and have disappointed some passengers who have wanted me to
zoom wildly through the crowds. Still, I saw some pedestrians
shrinking back at my passage, when I knew I was leaving plenty of
room to clear them, as long as they maintained course and speed. Ross
Lowell commented, after visiting here and riding with me in the
Quadracycle, that we were missing pedestrians by at least 5 mm. This
was an exaggeration, of course, but it could perhaps reflect how the
pedestrians themselves felt. So I decided to become more cautious,
slower in my movement through crowds. By pushing a little less, I
felt I could also make life easier for those around me and myself.
Pedicab These thoughts, along with some other things that were
happening in my life, contributed to the birth of a new, even more
mild-mannered Charles: a mellower chauffeur who would push less and
prioritize others' wishes more, giving up some control of the
situation. I would still make the decisions about traffic
safety--e.g. refusing to go the wrong way on one-way streets, and
firmly quashing any passenger's encroachment on the steering wheel or
brake--but within bounds of reasonableness and safety, I would make
an extra effort to make passengers, potential passengers, and
pedestrians alike comfortable with the pedicab. Regular breaks for
rest, food, and meditation are still an important part of my routine,
but how I act in between the rests is now changed.
Once I identified the changes that needed to take place and decided
to make them, it was relatively easy actually to carry them out. The
first night out after my Big Decision, two teenage guys wanted a ride
down to the Bozos bar. On the way there, they shout-flirted with some
women they didn't know. We sped past the women, and the guys insisted
we stop and back up. Before, I might have refused, or said I'd charge
extra. This time, I meekly stopped, turned around, and drove back 50
m to let the flirting continue. It could have gone on for some time,
so I invited the women to hop in, a suggestion which everyone liked.
When we got to Bozos, I announced that the women rode for free and it
was 35 crowns apiece for the guys. (Fortunately, they had not asked
the fare before, so they didn't know it was usually a 25 crown trip.)
Everyone was extremely pleased.
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Later that evening, a group of 15-year-olds stopped me as I was
cycling back to my main taxi stand. They wanted a short ride, but
balked when they learned of the 20 crown minimum per person. Their
destination was normally at least a 25 crown fare from where we were,
and too far away and uphill for me to want to give them as much Robin
Hood discount as they needed. Before, I might have just said "Sorry!"
and continued on, leaving them disappointed. But they were going the
same direction as I was headed, so I offered to let them ride for a
block for free, as long as one of them helped pedal. They had a ball,
leaving all of us laughing. Sure, I might have been flagged down by
four-five people for a 25-30 crown fare apiece on that block if I'd
been empty, but letting the kids ride spread the fun around more.
Besides, a cab filled with happy passengers is good advertising.
When pedestrians stop in front of me now to give me a hard time,
refusing to move, I just give them a disappointed look and wait, not
edging towards them as I sometimes did before. Occasionally I'll make
gentle fun of them in comments to my passengers. It doesn't take long
for them to get bored and move off, or for their friends to grab them
in embarrassment and drag them out of the way.
I'm just trying to strike a better balance between maintaining my own
integrity, self-respect, and wishes, and looking out for those of
others. Mind you, I'm still firm on many things, even beyond those
that directly affect safety. For example, the courtesy and respect I
try to show my passengers means that those who show little respect
for me or others sometimes don't get what they want at all. It
frequently happens that two groups will approach me at nearly the
same time, and one will hop aboard and shout out a destination, while
the other group talks to me first. The group who talks to me first
gets to ride, and I tell those who just grabbed the seats that the
cab is already taken. But I also encourage them in a friendly way to
catch me again some other time.
In the time since my Big Decision, I have had no serious incidents,
and minor incidents have remained minor. I have never had to go home
early because of psychological pressure. I understand this to mean
that I had been a significant part of the dynamic of the problems
before. By changing my behavior, I avoided many of the problems that
previously had plagued me.
I'm trying to apply the lessons to other parts of my life, and that
is not as easy. Changing the behavior of Charles, a character whose
narrowly defined role I play for some hours at a time, several times
a month, is easier than changing the behavior of this Carl figure I
live with every minute. But I'm starting to catch on and, with a
little help from my friends, am finding ways to, as well as the
advantages of giving up some more control and accepting life more as
it comes.
Because Charles can pedicab longer with less psychological pressure,
I may even be making more money since adjusting my behavior. I don't
know. The more important thing is the effect on me and those around
me. This is not impenetrable armor--the new, mellower Charles is not
immune to hassles, and it's not impossible that I'll get shoved next
week by some drunk who just hates tuxedos. But the shove is a lot
less likely than before, and, if it happens, it will bother me less
than it would have before. Every night I leave people feeling better
inside than I did before. This makes me feel better, too.
Why put this on a cycling page? If cycling can lead to enlightenment,
then that's worth talking about, too. Also, the lessons I've learned
apply to some degree to cycling in other circumstances. Someone
posted on the HPV mailing list a few months ago that his accidents
and close calls were always the other guy's fault. Yet when he
started pushing the limits of the safety envelope less--a kinder,
gentler cycling style--he found that his mishaps and near-misses
practically disappeared. Same principle.
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For more about Pedicabs, visit the Pedicab Forum
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Carl Etnier wrote this while living in Oslo in the 1990s; he has
lived full-time in Vermont since 2001 -- see bio here. This essay
originally appeared on the IHPVA e-mail list, now discontinued. The
IHPVA now has a Facebook group, though.
Sheldon Brown converted this essay to HTML and added the links.
Back to Fiction and Essays
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