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Tea Punch Was the First Cocktail
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Tea Punch Was the First Cocktail
This boozy brew used to be the British and American drink of choice.
by Andrew Coletti June 10, 2024
Tea Punch Was the First Cocktail
Copy Link Facebook Twitter Reddit Flipboard Pocket
A Midnight Modern Conversation by William Hogarth depicts
punch-drinkers in an 18th-century coffeehouse.
A Midnight Modern Conversation by William Hogarth depicts
punch-drinkers in an 18th-century coffeehouse. Public domain
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* Jump to recipe
THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE JUNE 8, 2024, EDITION OF GASTRO
OBSCURA'S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE.
Cocktail aficionados know that a Long Island Iced Tea contains no
tea. It gets its tea-like color from dark liquor and cola (it also
might not be from Long Island, but that's another story).
These days, you don't have to look far to find alcoholic beverages
that actually are made with tea. Bartenders around the world mix Earl
Grey martinis or chai-spiced White Russians, while the beverage
company Owl's Brew has been selling canned tea cocktails in flavors
like jasmine and blackberry since 2013.
It's easy to see why tea makes a pleasing addition to a mixed drink.
Aside from its flavor, tea provides herbal, astringent notes from
tannins and acids. But you might be surprised to learn that tea
cocktails are far from a recent trend.
The Origins of Punch
Hot Punch by Frank Moss Bennett was painted in 1924 but
shows a historical scene from the beverage's glory days.Hot Punch by
Frank Moss Bennett was painted in 1924 but shows a historical scene
from the beverage's glory days. Public domain
As early as 1632, traders employed by the British East India Company
were drinking a beverage known as "punch." Considered the first
modern mixed drink, punch was likely invented due to the scarcity of
wine and beer in English merchant outposts in Asia. Distilled spirits
kept better on long voyages and took up less space, but had to be
diluted with available ingredients to create something sippable.
A rhyme said to date from the 18th century provides the basic ratios
for "naval punch": One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, and
four of weak. Originally, "sour" meant citrus juice, "sweet" meant
sugar or molasses, and "strong" referred to arrack, a South and
Southeast Asian liquor distilled from coconut or sugarcane. "Weak"
could be water, but was often tea, such as green, black, or orange
Pekoe.
With the optional addition of spices, the beverage had five
ingredients, and one theory states that the word "punch" derives from
panch, Hindi for "five," although it may also have come from
"puncheon," a type of cask in which liquor was stored.
When mariners brought tea punch recipes back to England in the
mid-1600s, the beverage became popular among the wealthy financiers
of sea voyages and others who could afford its imported ingredients.
As these ingredients became more widely accessible, both tea and
punch became mainstays.
By 1750, the two drinks were consumed widely enough that English
physician Thomas Short addressed both in a treatise on the medicinal
properties of beverages. Short extolled the virtues of tea, but not
punch, writing that adding alcohol to tea "tends to make its Use
injurious, where it really would not be."
American Punch
This porcelain punch bowl was made in China for the American market
between 1785 and 1800.This porcelain punch bowl was made in China for
the American market between 1785 and 1800. Metropolitan Museum of
Art, CC0
Tea punch spread to Britain's American colonies, where it continued
to be imbibed well after the Revolution as part of the distinct tea
culture of the early United States. American punch was distinguished
from British versions of the beverage by the use of green tea, the
tea of choice in America up until the 1920s. And while the original
British punch was often hot, American tea punch could be iced.
The option to serve hot or cold is specified in a baffling 1839 punch
recipe from Kentucky, which combined red wine or champagne with
cream, green tea, and a tremendous quantity of sugar. Iced tea
wouldn't be served without booze in it until the Saint Louis World's
Fair in 1904. However, both British and American punches were
typically prepared in large quantities and served in a punch bowl.
By the late 18th century, rum had replaced arrack as the liquor of
choice for punch due to rum production in the Caribbean and other
British colonies. But tea punch could be made with whatever spirit
was on hand. An American recipe for "Regent's Punch" from 1815, said
to give drinkers a "mad, delirious dizziness," contains arrack,
brandy, champagne, and rum in addition to sugar, citrus juice and
green tea.
What Happened to Punch?
Be careful when you make Jerry Thomas's "flaming tea punch." Be
careful when you make Jerry Thomas's "flaming tea punch." Annie
Ewbank for Gastro Obscura
The rise of modern bar culture in the mid-1800s led to the
side-lining of punch. Taverns and coffeehouses where people gathered
for long periods socializing around a punch bowl were replaced by
restaurants and bars where individual drinks were made to order, an
adjustment to the faster pace of industrialized life. Since tea was
brewed by the pot until 1904, when the first tea bags hit the market,
tea-based punch didn't carry over easily to this new format.
Cocktail historian David Wondrich, in his book Imbibe, lists 1670 to
1850 as the golden years of punch's popularity. In 1853, Charles
Dickens--who published his own recipe for rum punch--lamented the
lonely appearance of stacked porcelain punch bowls "no longer asked
for" in the corner of a bar.
However, tea punch didn't disappear altogether. The first British
book of cocktail recipes, published by William Terrington in 1869,
contains numerous examples of "cups" (mixed drinks) made with tea.
British soldiers and later Royal Air Force pilots were issued
"gunfire"--a mixture of rum and tea--as part of official rations up
until World War 2. On military holidays, Australian soldiers may
still start the day with this mixture as part of a traditional
"gunfire breakfast."
In America, the long relationship between alcohol and tea took on a
new dimension during Prohibition, when some establishments served
illegal liquor in teapots to avoid suspicion. Some former speakeasies
and modern bars with a Roaring Twenties theme still serve cocktails
in teacups today.
As modern bartenders look towards the past for inspiration, tea punch
is beginning to see a comeback in recent years. Establishments like
Washington DC's Fountain Inn and London's Punch Room now serve
modern, updated versions of the classic punches of the 18th and 19th
centuries, distinct from the sugary and usually tea-free descendants
we call "punch" today.
If you're hankering to try some tea-based punch yourself, there are
numerous historic recipes to choose from, such as the below recipe
from the 1860s, which adds drama by setting the alcohol on fire.
Flaming Tea Punch
Adapted from How to Mix Drinks by Jerry Thomas (1862)
* Prep time: 20 minutes
* Cook time: 0 minutes
* Total time: 20 minutes
* 6 servings
Ingredients
* 1 cup of brandy
* 1 cup of rum
* 1/2 cup of sugar
* The juice of one lemon
* 4 cups of strong, hot green tea
Instructions
1. Mix together the brandy, rum, sugar, and lemon juice in a large
heat-safe bowl. Stir it with a spoon.
2. Put the bowl into the microwave and heat it for two minutes.
Then, heat it in 20-second intervals, checking regularly, until
the mixture is gently steaming.
3. Stir the mixture again to make sure the sugar has dissolved, and
carry it to a surface cleared of anything flammable. The punch
will burn very hot, with leaping flames, so be very careful.
Watch your fingers!
4. Light the fumes with a long lighter or match. Using a long ladle,
carefully spoon in the hot tea, stirring it once in a while. When
the tea has been completely incorporated, blow out any remaining
flames and serve hot.
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