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The Mysterious Street Snack That Has Baffled Botanists for Decades
Even DNA tests have yet to confirm its identity.
by Barkha Kumari August 5, 2021
The Mysterious Street Snack That Has Baffled Botanists for Decades
Copy Link Facebook Twitter Reddit Flipboard Pocket
A stand selling the snack in Bangalore.
A stand selling the snack in Bangalore. Courtesy Mahesh M
In This Story
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Destination Guide
India
A vendor was cutting slices off what looked like the trunk of a tree
on his push-cart. This was in Bengaluru, the city in the south Indian
state of Karnataka where I live. The core was a creamy white and the
skin a brownish-orange. He cut horizontally, in circles, with the
precision of a surgeon, so thin that I could see through the pieces.
"It's a root. It can grow five feet deep and 300kg," he explained, in
response to my shock. He sources it, he said, from the neighbouring
state of Kerala, from people who "get it from the forests." He hasn't
seen anybody extract the root, but has seen the tree it comes from.
"It's like a climber. It gives flowers. It grows near the sea. It's
called Bhoochakara Gadda in south India and Ram Kand Mool up north."
Can a root be this massive? Especially the root of a climber or vine?
Before I could ask Google, my snack was ready. It was seasoned with
salt, chili powder, and lime; my husband's had sugar and lime. It was
crunchy, juicy, and refreshing, but had no taste of its own.
That night, I googled Bhoochakara Gadda. There wasn't much. Wikipedia
identified the scientific name of the plant as Maerua oblongifolia,
but had no photos of it. Maerua oblongifolia is a low, woody,
undershrub found in India, Pakistan, parts of Africa, and Saudi
Arabia, whose tubers are sold as snacks and used as a stimulant in
the ancient medicine system of Siddha, I read. Research papers showed
its leaves and flowers but not the root. So I decided to dig in.
Most online sources cite Maerua oblongifolia, pictured here,
as the source of the snack, likely inaccurately.Most online sources
cite Maerua oblongifolia, pictured here, as the source of the snack,
likely inaccurately. Courtesy Dr. MS Rathore
I contacted a wood scientist, a professor of food science, and a
Siddha practitioner, each from my state. They hadn't seen the tree. I
pivoted my search to another state in the south, Andhra Pradesh. I
called up its tribal department, but got no leads. Then my messages
to the head of the biodiversity board were met with silence. I spoke
to a botany researcher who had studied the tree, only to learn he had
never seen it in person.
Soon enough, I'd learn that my idle curiosity was, in fact, a mystery
that has baffled and, at times, infuriated botanists for decades.
This snack has been widely sold on the streets for decades--from the
city of Haridwar in the north to Pune in the west and in several
places in the south--and yet, somehow, no one seems to know what it
is.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I had a breakthrough a few months later when I came across a thesis
paper by Dr. MS Rathore, who had propagated Maerua oblongifolia in
the lab in 2011. He had seen the tree many times in the desert state
of Rajasthan. "But I haven't heard or seen anybody eating the root,"
the scientist said over a call, sounding puzzled.
"Its roots are sparse and inedible," added Dr. NS Shekhawat, his
thesis adviser and a retired professor of botany. "Growing in dry
regions, where will it have so much water to develop big roots and be
fat and juicy? [The snack] can't be Maerua oblongifolia."
The duo sent me photos of the tree, which did not match the
description on Wikipedia. And the roots in the photos were grown in a
lab and too tiny to conclude anything.
I spoke next to Dr. T Pullaiah, former president of The Indian
Botanical Society. In his 2019 Encyclopaedia of World Medicinal
Plants, he links this snack to Ipomoea digitata, a climber that grows
a large tuberous root with a yellowish-brown coat. He must have seen
the root, I thought. "No. It was second-hand knowledge. We are
professors, busy between teaching and administrative work, so we rely
on existing literature to come to conclusions," he explained.
So I made more calls, wrote more emails. And a new name came up that
nullified all my research.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The year was 1994. Ethnobotanist Dr. Koppula Hemadri was going around
India "digging out roots" to confirm the origins of this snack. He
ended his search with agave. These are succulents that look like aloe
vera but can grow up to 10 feet wide and twice as tall. Some have a
stout stem topped with spiny leaves, like pineapples. Some appear
stemless.
"I tasted the base of agave, that's attached to roots," remarked Dr.
Hemadri, who's now retired and lives in Andhra Pradesh. "It was
starchy and a bit like that snack. But I did not pursue [the lead]
after that."
Agave grows abundantly a few hours from Bengaluru, a city where the
snack is a commonly sold.Agave grows abundantly a few hours from
Bengaluru, a city where the snack is a commonly sold. Courtesy Barkha
Kumari
In the same year, in the same state, botanist Dr. Ali Moulali got
closer: "I told a vendor I would pay him Rs1,000-2,000 ($13-27) more
if he revealed the identity of the plant. He hesitated and said,
'It's the base of Kitta Nara.' " That's what the fibre made from
agave is locally called. The vendor also revealed that it wasn't a
root, but something that grew just above the ground.
In the same period, flowering-plant taxonomist Dr. SR Yadav was
encouraging his students in the western state of Maharashtra to
scrutinise Ram Kand, which is the snack's local name there. Two of
his students--Dr. Mansingraj S Nimbalkar and Dr. Vinod B Shimpale, who
were studying molecular biology and taxonomy--went on to provide the
most scientific insight into this mystery.
In 2010, after a long anatomical study, they performed DNA barcoding
on a slice of the snack and found it to match that of agave's by 89
percent. There are several species of agave, but the lab test
narrowed it down to Agave Sisalana, a plant sometimes used to make a
tequila-like drink. They did a field visit soon after and plucked out
a Sisalana only to find mesh-like, shallow roots. Next, they chopped
off its leaves and there it was: the fat, white, watery trunk
familiar to millions of Indians from food carts. They ate a slice
from it, and it was tasteless and crunchy just like Ram Kand. The
findings were published inCurrent Science the following year.
It's sold only in ultra-thin slices.It's sold only in ultra-thin
slices. Courtesy Mahesh M
So why is there still doubt about the identity of this snack? "Which
species of agave is it--Sisalana or Americana or any other?" Dr.
Shimpale says. "We can't conclude until the vendors show the plant to
us. They keep this as a business secret to create curiosity around
it."
Yes, there is a pattern to what the vendors say: It's a root; it's
medicinal; they get it from a forest 200 kilometers away or in
Africa. They say the Hindu god Ram, and his wife and brother,
subsisted on Ram Kand during their exile in the forests, and that
Bhoochakara Gadda is a sweet-something growing underground. Try to
buy their stock in bulk and they'll spare no more than a few slices.
Probe them and they'll cart away. "Forest officials in Maharashtra
have tried to spy on them, but it was futile," Dr. Nimbalkar recalls.
Going on a hunch, I rang up a senior forest official in Karnataka, GS
Yadav. "You need permission to remove or extract anything from any
forest," he says clearly. But agave doesn't fully fit into the forest
bracket. It grows widely in India, on roadsides, along railway
tracks, as fencing. However, it may not be so healthy. "Agave has
lots of alkaloids. It can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities.
Maybe that's why they sell thin slices," Dr. Yadav, now retired,
warns.
I felt increasingly certain that agave was the answer until Dr.
Chenna Kesava Reddy Sangati, an assistant professor of nutrition &
technology in Bengaluru, dubbed it "impossible." He has researched
agave extensively in order to produce an alcoholic beverage from its
Albomarginata variety. "I have eaten Bhoochakara Gadda. It has a
smoother mouthfeel, is softer to bite, and is not very sweet," he
says. "Whereas this agave is highly sweet, astringent, fibrous, and
hard to bite."
Dr. Chenna Kesava Reddy Sangati shows the insides of the trunk of
Agave Albomerginata. He says this snack can't be related to
agave.Dr. Chenna Kesava Reddy Sangati shows the insides of the trunk
of Agave Albomerginata. He says this snack can't be related to agave.
Courtesy Dr. Chenna Kesava Reddy Sangati
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In April, the second wave of coronavirus in India had set in. Crowds
on the street had thinned, push-carts were fewer, and the vendor I
had first met was gone. "He has gone to his village," a man who sells
watermelons on the same street told me. But he passed on the vendor's
contact number.
Fearing another lockdown, the vendor had returned to the northern
state of Jharkhand. The pandemic was killing his business and he
wanted to know from me when things will be normal. What could I say?
We shifted the topic and he came clean easily: "It's a stem ... I sell
it year-round ... I have seen the plant only in photos, on the phone."
Oh! "Will you give me the phone number of the person you source
Bhoochakara Gadda from?" I asked. He went silent.
"Ask anything but this, please. Nobody will tell you anything. This
is how this business is," he told me, getting irritated by the
minute. Then he calmed down. "I've been eating this for years. It
cools the body. Customers say it's good for diabetes. It's not
illegal, I know."
The vendors smear red coloring on the sides to preserve the white
interior.The vendors smear red coloring on the sides to preserve the
white interior. Courtesy Barkha Kumari
After questioning my motives for calling him, he agreed to look at
photos of the plants that experts were debating. "None," he replied.
I was gutted but called back to thank him. But then he said, "Photo
number 3. That's the plant." It was Agave Sisalana. He okayed Photo
number 2 as well, which was Agave Americana. There was no word on
Photo No. 1, Maerua oblongifolia.
"They cut the leaves and rub red color on the trunk to preserve its
white color," he explained.
So is this an agave snack, after all? I will wait for the final word,
as Dr. MS Shekhawat, another botanist from Rajasthan, has assured me
that after the pandemic is over, he will go into the field, uproot,
slice, and taste a sample of each likely candidate, and resolve the
mystery once and for all.
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