https://www.instructables.com/Nintoaster-Build/ * Home * Circuits * Workshop * Craft * Cooking * Living * Outside * Teachers Following InstructablesinstructableslivingProjectsContests * Publish Enter search term[ ] Nintoaster Build By Dizzle813 in LivingVideo Games 3,199 40 13 Featured license DownloadFavorite Introduction: Nintoaster Build Nintoaster Build **DISCLAIMER** Last Update: 7/7/2021 This build is to be used only as a guide. I'm sure there will be steps that might be questioned or could be done in a better way. I am not an electrical engineer or machinist. So please deviate if needed. I'm not responsible for any damage you may do to yourself or system. Please pay attention when dealing with Mains Voltage. Shock or even death may occur if you don't know what you're doing! Read and understand all schematics before you attempt anything. ___________________________________ I wanted to document my Nintoaster build for various reasons. There aren't that many guides on the internet on the subject or if there is, its very vague or the build is incomplete. The video by VomitSaw on YouTube (the original Nintoaster creator) will be used as reference for this build. I wont cover EVERY detail of the process but I will document as much as I can if its relevant. I don't want to repeat too many steps that are already covered in VomitSaws How-To video. I will show and use schematics from his video to create various circuits and construct the Nintoaster. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Supplies This is a general list of items you will need for this project. You may or may not need some of these items or even items not listed depending on your toaster and over all design. You will need quite a few specialty tools to get this project done. Such as a Dremel, tin snips, heat gun, multimeter and soldering iron just to name a few. As you can see, the cost of this project can skyrocket if you don't already have these items, so keep that in mind. 1) Toaster. * I bought a rare brand new vintage Sunbeam toaster. It's very similar to AVGNs' Nintoaster.. 2) NES System - Duh 3) Wire * Various gauges from 22 to 24 AWG. You will need at least 30 Feet. Yes, 30..in 22 gauge to wire the 72 pin cartridge connector to the NES board. The other gauge to connect various items such as the video amp, LEDs etc. We'll cover those later. 4) Game Genie 72 pin connector or equivalent. 5) Perf Board * You will need this to create circuits, LED array and to mount the 72 pin cartridge connector. 6) Epoxy / Hot Glue 7) Heat Shrink Tubing 8) 10k Ohm Potentiometer / Variable resistor * Used to control the brightness of the LEDs. Not required but recommended. 9) 5mm Orange LEDS 10) Various Resistors / Transistors * You'll need: 33 ohm, 220 ohm, 150 ohm resistors and a 2N4401 transistor 11) Momentary Push Button Switch * To turn on / off the system 12) Plexiglass 13) Thermal Paste Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 1: Disassemble NES & Toaster Disassemble NES & Toaster First thing is to disassemble your NES from its original case. There are guides on the net on how to do this. What we need is the bare mother board, controller ports and the reset button. You also have to remove the RF modulator and expansion port thats on the NES board. After you take apart your toaster, there are a couple things to look for. Where will the NES board be mounted? Is there enough room for the board and the other items that need to be installed? Toasters are like snowflakes, they're all unique, so it may take some trial and error in finding the right one. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 2: Cartridge Connector Fitting Cartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector Fitting Cartridge Connector FittingCartridge Connector Fitting Once you determine that everything will fit into the toaster, the next step is figuring out where to mount the 72 pin cartridge connector. Use your tin snips/aviation snips or whatever tools you have and remove any metal, heating elements or anything that my get in the way. Try not to remove too much, you may need to keep some items to mount things to. Put a game cart on top of the perf board to see how much of the game you want showing from the top of the toaster. Measure and measure again, then mark where you want it. I then made these brackets for the board to rest on, then held them in place with epoxy. Next, you need to fit the game genie connector to the perf board. This was probably the second most tedious and difficult part of the build so far. You have to bend and fan out the pins to make them line up on the perf board. If you're not paying attention, you can break a pin off when trying to slide the connector onto the the board. Like I did. Luckily, I was able to cut into the connector and solder in a piece of copper wire to act as a new pin. I got lucky, so be careful! Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 3: Power Switch & Video Amp Power Switch & Video AmpPower Switch & Video AmpPower Switch & Video AmpPower Switch & Video Amp Depending on your toaster, you'll have to determine how you'll turn the system on and off. Since my toaster is from the 1980s, I have a mechanical latch system that holds the switch down. If you have a newer toaster you'll likely have an electromagnet system. In that case, take the electromagnet out, then I'd use two small earth magnets to keep the switch down, which is easier than dealing with the electromagnet. In my case, I had to glue and epoxy pieces of perf board to make a sort of mount for my switch. You'll be making and fabricating many things so be ready. Using the provided amp circuit schematic, I built my video amp on a piece of perf board. I made sure to cut it to size so it fits nicely in the corner of the NES board. You'll see it more in the following steps. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 4: Solder NES to 72-Pin Connector Solder NES to 72-Pin ConnectorSolder NES to 72-Pin ConnectorSolder NES to 72-Pin ConnectorSolder NES to 72-Pin ConnectorSolder NES to 72-Pin Connector Before I began to solder, I wanted to check to see if the NES will fit with the outer shell of toaster in place. Turns out, the capacitors were getting in the way of the shell. So, to fix I decided remove more of the toaster chassis to make some more room. (I later had to bend the Caps down, I still didn't have enough room). Be sure to double check things along the way to correct any issues. Last thing you want is to be completely done and the NES and it not fit...so always double check EVERYTHING. For soldering the 72-pin connector, I decided to to use 22 gauge solid core wire. I've heard from many others that using too small of gauge wire could cause issues with some games. The length of the wire also comes into play. You must keep the wires as short as possible. The downside to using this wire is it makes bending the NES into place more difficult. The wire can be stiff, so bending the wires little by little is required. If I could do it again, I wouldn't use solid core, makes positioning the board way more difficult. Patience is needed when soldering the 144 connections. Cutting, stripping, tinning and soldering will definitely test it. Take your time! Its very easy to make a solder bridge during this step. Check for any shorts/bridges along the way. If you mess up here, the NES will not work! Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 5: Epoxy Cartridge Connector and Acrylic Guides Epoxy Cartridge Connector and Acrylic GuidesEpoxy Cartridge Connector and Acrylic GuidesEpoxy Cartridge Connector and Acrylic Guides Pretty straightforward step. It's time to epoxy the connector and acrylic game guides into place. This is where your measurements from earlier come into play. This is your last chance to get it right. I used J-B Weld Clear and Original for this, its just what I had around. I don't have many photos of the process same with the acrylic. Its covered in VomitSaws video. I will say, the perf board should have some support for it. Over time, pushing down and pulling out games will put stress on the board and epoxy. To help with that, I glued in small pieces of acrylic underneath the perf board. Measure your acrylic and use a heat gun to make a slight bend for the top. Trim to make it fit. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 6: 7805 & Power Supply 7805 & Power Supply7805 & Power Supply7805 & Power Supply7805 & Power Supply I mounted the 7805 and heat sink to the toaster chassis. Don't forget to add thermal paste to the 7805 and the heat sink. If not, the heat will not transfer fast enough away from the 7805 and you'll have major overheating issues. The power supply I used was rather large. In hindsight, I should have used a smaller one. Nonetheless, it works just fine and it fits. Some AC/DC adapters can be a pain in the ass to open. They weren't designed to be opened. I used my Dremel and carefully cut it open to I could solder my power wires to it. Be sure to follow the provided schematic. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 7: RCA / Reset Switch & Controller Ports RCA / Reset Switch & Controller PortsRCA / Reset Switch & Controller PortsRCA / Reset Switch & Controller PortsRCA / Reset Switch & Controller Ports For the RCA and reset switch, I decided to use the male and female connectors to hook everything up. Otherwise, if and when I need to open the Nintoaster again, it'll be easier to take it on and off without having to solder everything back off / on. Its not necessary, but its come in handy during this build. After cutting square holes in the acrylic by hand using a file (that took forever, I highly suggest you find someone with a laser cutter) ...epoxy the ports into place. You can either do it under the acrylic or on top. I chose under it so the ports are less visible. Be sure to make a mount for the reset button as shown. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 8: LED Array LED ArrayLED ArrayLED ArrayLED ArrayLED ArrayLED ArrayLED Array I used Orange LEDs with 2.2 forward voltage. I wired all 6 in parallel, then wired it through the potentiometer to control the brightness. I provided a schematic of what I did. For these LEDs, I had to use 150 ohm resistors. I then soldered everything to a piece of perf board and used epoxy to mount it. I placed a couple pieces of Kapton tape behind the array to make sure it doesn't short to the chassis. Since there was room on the perf board where the cartridge connector is mounted, I soldered each LED on to that as a base. Then mounted two other LEDs on their own mount. Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Step 9: System Test and Reassemble System Test and ReassembleSystem Test and Reassemble Be sure to test the system every step of the way. Once everything is good. Do a once over of the system. Secure all wiring, or anything loose. Last thing you need is a pinched wire or short. Then reassemble your toaster and enjoy! Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload Be the First to Share Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Recommendations Solar Powered Rotating Strawberry TowerSolar Powered Rotating Strawberry Tower Solar Powered Rotating Strawberry Tower by JT_Makes_It in Metalworking 250 16K Simple Wooden Classic Cars. Simple Wooden Classic Cars. 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I figured it out, he meant "Nes - Wikipedia" https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nes#:~:text= NES%20is%20commonly%20used%20as,System%2C%20a%20video%20game%20console ... with which I was unfamiliar. 0 Dizzle813Dizzle813 Dizzle813ShakyKnees Reply 1 day ago ReplyUpvote Basically saying you need a Nintendo to do the project, which should be obvioous. Hence the "duh" 0 JohnC430JohnC430 JohnC430 Question 2 days ago AnswerUpvote what is this thing supposed to do? Is it just one of those super mario games inside a different box? I looked for an explanation but none. 2 answers 0 Dizzle813Dizzle813 Dizzle813JohnC430 Reply 1 day ago ReplyUpvote It's a working original Nintendo inside a toaster. 0 taki2007taki2007 taki2007JohnC430 Answer 1 day ago ReplyUpvote It is supposed to play NES games in the shell of a toaster. 0 throbscottlethrobscottle throbscottle 2 days ago ReplyUpvote So cool. 1 MuzicMakerMuzicMaker MuzicMaker 2 days ago ReplyUpvote Super cool! (Or super hot?) I love this, as a NES player of old and maker. I started on Pong, moved up to Atari, but the NES was the game changer. I still remember fondly my first console and unboxing the shiny golden Zelda cartridge! True NES toaster story - I stayed up ALL night playing and actually melted a cartridge. The plastic casing was like taffy, it was warped and weird, but after cooling it still worked! Just blow on the cartridge, maaaybe blow on the console slot, and you were in business lol. Microsoft could've learned a thing or two from that hardy old system. Awesome build, and I imagine a very satisfying playing experience. 1 ArthurJ5ArthurJ5 ArthurJ5 2 days ago ReplyUpvote Cool. I have an old toaster, I might make a phone charger. Hmmm... 0 Arnov SharmaArnov Sharma Arnov Sharma 3 days ago ReplyUpvote How about making a toster PS1 next! 1 rskursku rsku 7 days ago ReplyUpvote Nicely done, looks great! 1 jessyratfinkjessyratfink jessyratfink 10 days ago ReplyUpvote That is SUPER neat. 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