Service chevron—(army) for enlisted men: a diagonal half-c. of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service to which wearer is attacht, conferred for service in war, completed periods of enlistment, etc.
Service coat—(army) for officers: a single-breasted sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, made with 4 outside choked-bellows pockets (2 above and 2 below), without plaits and with buttoned flaps, falling collar; fitting closely at waist and loosely at chest; 5 bronze buttons; in length reaching to one-third the distance to knee; collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed; officers of general staff corps (except chief of staff) wear a band of ½ inch black braid on sleeve, 3 inches from end; for enlisted men: a single-breasted, straight-front sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, conforming in design and cut to the service c. for officers, trimmed as prescribed.
Service coat—(navy) for officers: a fly-front, close-meeting, single-breasted c. of dark blue cloth or serge, shaped to the figure, in length reaching to the crotch, with a slit or vent over each hip, and a plain standing collar, the collar, front and bottom edges, side seams and hip vents trimmed with wide silk braid, laid on flat, and beside which a narrow black silk braid is laid; collar and sleeves ornamented with appropriate devices, marks, etc., according to rank. (Revenue cutter service) for all commissioned officers, in general, the same as the service c. worn by naval officers. In warm weather a similar c. of white linen duck, trimmed with white linen braid. For non-commissioned officers, a similar c. without braiding; or a white c. For masters-at-arms, a 5 button double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth with rolling collar; or of blue serge or flannel or white duck in warm weather.
Service dress—(navy) uniform to be worn when “Uniform B.” is prescribed on occasions of ceremony where officers of navy and army appear together, and at all times not otherwise provided for; consisting of, for all officers, service coat, undress trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet shall be prescribed with white trousers or may be with blue.)
Service dress—(revenue cutter service) for officers, blue or white service coat, blue or white trousers, blue or white cap, sword and black leather belt, white gloves except at sea. Sword and belt omitted on ordinary boarding duty. For non-commissioned officers, a similar uniform without sword or belt and with appropriate ornaments, etc. For seamen, white duck jumpers with wide collars and cuffs trimmed with dark blue flannel; trousers of dark blue cloth, broadfalls style, laced behind; or of white duck of same pattern; blue flannel undershirt, and other garments, ornaments, etc., as prescribed.
Service dress—(army) see S. uniform; (marine corps) Field d.
Service hat—(army) a soft felt h. of regulation pattern, of the color of the s. uniform, with a cord of gold bullion for general officers and of gold and black intermixt for all other officers; and for enlisted men: a soft felt h. of the color of the uniform, of regulation pattern, decorated as prescribed.
Service trousers—(army) for officers, of same material as s. coat, without stripe, welt or cord.
Service uniform—(army) (a) for habitual wear in garrisons, (b) for duty under arms in garrison unless otherwise prescribed, and (c) at drills (when prescribed), target practice, maneuvers, on marches and in the field. For all dismounted officers: (a) s. coat and trousers, s. cap, russet leather shoes; (b) under arms, add s. belt, saber, drab leather gloves; (c) s. coat and breeches, russet leather shoes, leggings, s. hat, s. belt, drab leather gloves, saber, revolver; officers of signal corps wear russet leather shoulder belt with b. and c. when on duty requiring its use. For all mounted officers: (a) s. coat and breeches, s. cap, russet leather boots or russet leather shoes with leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves; (b) under arms add s. belt and saber; (c) same as a. except s. hat and add revolver; shoulder belt for officers of signal corps when required; for enlisted men, dismounted: (a) s. coat and breeches, s. cap, leggings, russet leather shoes; (b) under arms add drab leather gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box; (c) s. coat and breeches, leggings, russet leather shoes, s. hat, field belt, drab leather gloves. Mounted: (a) s. coat and breeches, leggings, s. cap, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs; (b) under arms add russet leather belt and cartridge box; (c) s. coat and breeches, s. hat, leggings, russet leather shoes, spurs, field belt, and drab leather gloves.
Setting the twist—a finishing process in yarn spinning; the act of steaming the rovings or twisted worsted yarn so that the twist shall become permanent.
Sew-thru—trade term for buttons made with holes to sew thru. Compare Shank.
Sewing machine—an invention that has made readymade apparel a prodigious commercial success.
Sewing silk—a two-cord thread with a left-hand or reverse twist, so that as the needle goes thru the fabric the thread tightens. See also Machine twist and Buttonhole twist.
Sewings—trade term for sewing silk, cotton and linen thread.
Shabby—pretty well worn.
Shabby-genteel—seedy; of incomplete freshness or outworn fashionableness of attire.
Shackle—leg jewelry, not well thought of.
Shad-belly coat—a name, drawn from the contour of the shad, for a c. of the pattern similar to that now known as a cutaway frock or morning c., but originally with standing collar and buttoning nearly or close to the neck. From the fact that Quakers preferred the shad-belly c. at a time when other styles were popular, they received the nickname of shad-bellies. The term is still used occasionally, referring to the cutaway frock.
Shaded—trade term for goods not running exactly alike, one piece with another of the same number; or varying in the same piece. Compare “Off color” and “Cloudy”.
Shadow check—in weaving, monotone effects of plain design.
Shadow silk—changeable; iridescent. See Changeant.
Shadow stripe—an effect in cloth weaving showing a blended stripe pattern of rather darker or lighter shade than the body-color.
Shadow weave—an effect achieved in the loom by alternate or regular repeats or duplications of the pattern in darker shades of yarn, giving the appearance of reflected shadows; in some goods certain of the yarns are twisted in an opposit or reverse direction, which, woven, assist in the shadow effect.
Shag—a heavy woolen cloth with long nap, used for coats, overcoats, skirts, etc., when the country was young.
Shagrine—an old-time lining material.
Shaker—see below.
Shaker flannel—a plain woven white f., with a cotton warp and wool filling, well napt.
Shaker goods—general term for fabrics, yarns, hosiery, etc., manufactured by the Shaker community, their most important manufacturing settlements being those in New York and Ohio.
Shaker socks—originally a plain, heavy, woolen variety, in natural color or blue mixt, latterly made with a ribbed leg and also so known.
Shako—a stiff, high military hat or cap with a peak in front and usually a pompon or a plume at the front part of the flat crown; a high fur hat or cap resembling the so-called bearskin; the glory of a drum-major. See Full dress cap (marine corps).
Shalloon—a light, fine, close-woven, worsted or worsted-and-wool fabric, twilled on both sides, usually dyed in plain colors and employed as a lining material, so called from Chalons, France, where first made.
Sham vest—a narrow strip sewed inside the collar of a (livery) body coat, usually of Valencia, extending beyond the collar about ¼ inch.
Shamoying—a process of dressing leather with oil and fatty substances.
Shammy—see Chamois.
Shampoo—a vigorous cleansing of the hair, with soap and water or other adjuvants and much manipulation.
Shamrock linen—a fine, thin, sheer handkerchief l. resembling batiste, woven of 1 warp l. and 1 warp fine sea island cotton alternating and with the same arrangement of weft. Also called pineapple cloth. See Thread-about.
Shanghai—an old term for a tall, lanky dude, swell, or masher. (From Shanghai fowls, a long-legged variety introduced from China).
Shank—that part of a shoe between the tread and the heel; also the steel strengthening piece inserted therein.
Shank—a metal or cloth projection on the underside of a button for sewing thru onto the cloth.
Shankbone—a bone, properly the shankbone of a deer, used to “slicken” or smooth and lightly polish boots which are first drawn on trees, the rubbing of the bone on the surface of the leather imparting sufficient oil for a “finish”.
Shaps—see Chaparejos.
Sharkskin—a name applied to a kind of rain-cloth having a round figure and a glossy back.
Sharkskin serge—a fancy weave s., having some resemblance to chain-weave s.
Sharps—see Needle.
Shaving mirror—a single or triplicate m. that may be adjusted to many angles; a masculin luxury.
Shaving mug—a cup for shaving soap and water.
Shaving soap—a soft emollient luxury unknown to women; supposed to be extra fine and “not to dry on face”.
Shaving stand—a piece of (masculin) furniture having mirrors, drawers, etc.
Shaving stick—a form of shaving soap to be rubbed directly on the wetted bristles.
Shawknit—a proprietary term for stockings made in rights and lefts.
Shawl—a square or oblong wrap of heavy cloth, plain or patterned, often fringed, worn in place of an overgarment; usually of fine, soft wool and woven with a long nap.
Shawl collar—in tailoring, a c. embraced in plain curved lines, without a notch or step; usually silk-faced when made on dinner jackets, self-faced when on waistcoats, or fur covered when on overcoats; a rolling c.
Shawl pattern—general term for designs taken from Oriental shawls.
Shawl pin—a brooch used for fastening the shawls worn by (usually elderly) men.
Shawl roll—same as s. collar.
Shawl strap—buckled leather straps, single or connected double with a handle, for carrying shawls, steamer rugs, parcels, etc.
Shawl waistcoat—formerly a w. made of a shawl pattern; material usually woolen.
She dragon—see Wig.
Shears—exaggerated “scissors” used by clothing cutters.
Shed—the opening or space between divisions of warp threads (or leaves) in weaving for the passage of the shuttle carrying the weft.
Sheepskin—used, with the wool on, for lap robes, fur coats, gloves, etc.; without the wool, for heavy working gloves, polishing leather, etc.
Sheer—very fine, thin and delicate; gauzy.
Shell—term given to winter overcoats that are lined thruout with fur, the cloth part of the garment being so called.
Shell—see Tortoise; see Pearl.
Shell bag—see Ammunition b.
Shell carrier—see Cartridge belt.
Shellalee—a disused spelling of shillelagh.
Shells—the thin metal discs used in making covered buttons.
Shepherd check—a name given to twill woven suitings, having a peculiar small black-and-white check pattern, achieved by six black and six white, repeatedly, both in the warp and filling directions. Sometimes other colors are used instead of black and white; and frequently a colored thread is used at intervals in either or both directions, for illumination.
Shepherder—a 1907 variation of sombrero.
Sherryvallies—overalls, formerly worn over trousers, to protect them from mud and dust when traveling. The word is probably a corruption of “chevalier”. See Shorrevals.
Shetland—very shaggy overcoating, named as some say after the Shetland pony, the coat of which it is supposed to imitate in appearance, or as others say from the coarse wool of the Shetland sheep from which it was first made, and which seems the more probable.
Shield—a sort of fancy dicky or plastron worn with boys’ sailor blouses.
Shield bosom—a stiff shirt b. built up of two or more thicknesses of linen or other material of various fineness, made either in one piece or “open front”.
Shield bow—a b. tie without band, attacht to a shield which fastens by a loop to the collar button and engages the folds of the collar; worn only with turned down collars.
Shillalagh—ask an Irishman.
Shin guard—a sort of shield of rattan reeds sewed into padded leather or canvas, worn around the leg by cricketers, football players, etc.
Shingle—to cut the hair evenly short all-over the head; a “monkey cut”.
Shipping clerk—the chap who makes you cuss a late delivery.
Shirt—a garment worn between underwear and coat (or vest); specifically a sort of loose sack with sleeves and a plain front or with a plaited or shield bosom, usually made of fine cotton and linen fabrics, tho for neglige wear fine woolen and silk materials are also employed. Shirts with shield bosoms are commonly designated dress shirts (whether white or colored), the designation evening or full dress s. distinguishing those entirely of white and particularly with a large full bosom. Bosom shirts are usually made (1) open front, (2) closed front with open back, (3) open front and back, (4) open front coat style, while those with plaited or plain soft fronts are usually made open front coat style. All varieties are made with and without attacht cuffs and white full dress shirts often with attacht collars. All of which, and more, too, you doubtless knew.
Shirt bosom—a sort of bill board for vulgarians to bedeck with diamonds.
Shirt coat—a windproof, dust proof and waterproof “slip-on” overgarment for motor wear, made (somewhat like a poncho) without a front opening, but having an elastic rubber yoke (thru which the head is past) closely encircling the neck, and sleeves provided with wind shields.
Shirt collar—any c., separate or attacht, worn with a shirt, generally known as standing, wing, lay-down, folded etc.
Shirt cuffs—memorandum tablets.
Shirt frill—the ruffle once worn on shirt bosoms, the decadence of which is seriously to be regretted.
Shirt front—a separate bosom or dicky.
Shirt pin—begemmed bravura now obsolete.
Shirt protector—a sort of muffler, generally shaped, for the protection of dress shirts against dust and ditto the chest of the wearer from colds, etc.
Shirt stud—a button-like sort of fastener for open bosoms, usually of gold with or without settings of precious stones; a similar article for closed bosom shirts usually mounted on a spiral or screw or separable post, by which it is inserted.
Shirting—general term for linen and cotton cloths intended for men’s shirts; usually woven tighter, singed closer and more heavily calendered than when intended for other uses.
Shirting flannel—general term for a large variety of plain and twill woven light-weight soft wool fabrics suitable for outing shirts, etc.
Shirtwaist—a test of masculin fortitude during the summer of 1901 and a while after.
Shirtwaist suspenders—see Invisible s.
Shirty—slang for your state of mind when angry.
Shoddy—cloth made from cheap yarns spun over cotton warp; these yarns are spun from old woolen rags chopt into waste, then carded and spun into threads of various sizes and strength. The cloth is soft, nicely finisht, attractiv in appearance and comparativly free from imperfections; it can be woven into patterns similar to those of the most expensiv woolens, and is a very cheap fabric, often as low as 30c to 15c a yard, and a larger yardage is consumed than of any other kind of goods manufactured for men’s wear.
Shoddy—(adj.) of poor quality; trashy; not genuine.
Shoe—an outer covering or dress for the human foot, usually distinguisht from a boot (qv) by not reaching above the ankle, commonly made of leather.
Shoe—the base or bottom part of a collar button.
Shoe brush—a brush for cleaning or polishing shoes; any of various models, some having daubers and handles attacht.
Shoe buckle—a b. for fastening a shoe by a strap across the instep, or one worn only for ornament.
Shoe button—a small b. that, before the era of patent fasteners, had a habit of dropping off in public, and which still is unable to keep perpetually black.
Shoe buttoner—see button hook.
Shoe horn—a curved metal device, not unlike a surgeon’s speculum, for helping tight shoes onto the foot.
Shoe lace—a fastening that always breaks in public places.
Shoe leather—slang for shoes.
Shoe names—generally those coined, fancy names applied to lasts of peculiar shape with peculiar styles of toes; usually of no permanency or value.
Shoe pack—a shoe made like an Indian moccasin, usually of white, oil tanned stock, and formerly worn extensivly in winter in the northern lumber states, but now in limited demand by western farmers during harvest; known since revolutionary times.
Shoe peg—a small tack or nail of wood or metal used for fastening soles to uppers.
Shoe plate—a triangular device of steel affixt to the toe or heel of a s., or both (as of a baseball s.), the ends of which are bent at right angles to the foot, serving to give a firm footing when running, pitching, etc.
Shoe pull—see Heel strap.
Shoe scraper—an iron contrivance once prominent at the side of the steps to a house, used for scraping dirt from the shoes before entering.
Shoe strings—s. laces.
Shoe tie—a s. lace.
Shoe tree—a wooden form for keeping shoes in shape. See Tree.
Shoemaker’s wax—a mixture of pitch and tallow (highly prized by schoolboys for sticking on the teacher’s chair).
Shoestring—a long, narrow black silk necktie.
Shoestrut—a hose supporter for men, made of spring steel wire, attaching to the top of the shoe and the top of the stocking and so worn in an upright position.
Shootin’-iron—the “weepon” for which hip pockets were invented.
Shooting coat—a sack c. or jacket of corduroy, duck, etc., with deep, capacious pockets, worn by sportsmen.
Shooting hat—a low crowned soft h. of corduroy or mackinaw cloth, with a brim that turns up or down behind.
Shooting hose—same as golf h. (qv).
Shooting jacket—see S.-coat.
Shop—store.
Shop-assistant—English term for what we call salesclerk and salesman.
Shop board—the table that journeymen tailors work upon.
Shop cap—commonly, a flat topt, straight-sided c. with a peak, usually of cheap cotton material.
Shop-made—general trade term for garments and other articles made in a shop where modern machinery and labor saving methods are in use—as, for illustration, garments made in a modern factory instead of by highly paid journeymen. Compare Made.
Shopkeeper—a retail merchant, commonly with but small business.
Shoplifter—just plain thief.
Shopper—a spy in the employ of a rival merchant.
Shopping—“just looking.”
Shopworn—soiled, frayed, rubbed, scuft, barkt, nickt, etc., by handling, dust, accident, etc.
Shorrevals—a sort of pantaloon or legging worn on horseback as a protection against mud, over the trousers or breeches, buttoning on the outside of the leg; obsolete. See Sherryvallies.
Short clothes—a graduation step from the long dresses of early infancy.
Short clothes—the knee breeches of the last and preceding century.
Short collar—tailoring term for a c. put on too short for the gorge of a coat and consequently tight.
Short fly—in tailoring a defect in trousers-making, having a penitential effect upon the wearer.
Short hose—a stocking reaching nearly to the knee, worn by children; the short stocking of the Scotch highlanders.
Short measures—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements embracing everything comprehended by the long m. systems, but which are divided, in the taking, into two or more separate measurements and also including measurements which zealots of other systems declare redundant. Compare Long m. and Superlativ m.
Short roll—high buttoning; the reverse of long r. (qv). (Tailoring term.)
Short sleeves—general term for undergarments with sleeves reaching to the elbow, or shorter.
Short staple—short fiber, as cotton, wool, etc. (qv).
Short stout—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of less than average hight. Compare S. and Extra s.
Short vamp—see Long v.
Short wool—fine fleece 2 to 4 inches long. See Wool.
Shorts—early familiar term for knee breeches in contradistinction to long trousers. Compare Longs. See Short clothes.
Shot—(1) textil term for a changeable effect produced by the use of warp threads of one color and weft of another, producing a changeable color effect. See Changeant. (2) Also a textil term for seeded effects, produced usually by a brilliant thread (as silk in a woolen fabric) appearing at close intervals over the face of the goods.
Shoulder belt—a b. passing over one shoulder and about the body on the opposit side; worn as a badge or regalia, or to sustain a weapon, pouch, etc.; a baldric, bandolier, sword b., etc.
Shoulder belts—(army) worn with full dress by officers of the signal corps; for chief signal officer, of red russia leather having 3 stripes of gold embroidery and field-glass case attacht; other officers, a b. corresponding to their waist b., with field-glass case attacht.
Shoulder cape—loosely, any short or small c., whether worn as a separate garment or attacht to an overcoat.
Shoulder closer—in clothing manufacture, a workman who sews up the shoulder seams of coats.
Shoulder form—a coat hanger or display fixture conforming to the shoulders of a coat.
Shoulder holster—a revolver h. with a breast and shoulder strap, worn under the coat on the left side.
Shoulder knot—a braided ornamental k. of gold lace worn on the shoulder in lieu of strap and epaulet, indicating rank, worn by commissioned officers only; a kind of epaulet without fringe.
Shoulder mark—a strip of cloth about 2¼ × 5 inches, pointed at one end, worn by officers in the navy, distinguishing their rank according to the style and manner of braid and other ornament.
Shoulder measure method—one of various systems of garment measurement. (Tailoring.)
Shoulder piece—(1) a piece over the shoulder joining the front and back of a garment; (2) a shoulder strap; (3) armor protecting the shoulders.
Shoulder pitch—see S. point.
Shoulder point—where the forepart and backpart (of a coat) meet and are seamed at the shoulder, particularly the crest thereof; a term in tailor’s measurements.
Shoulder stick—a shoemaker’s tool for “setting” the edges of soles and heels.
Shoulder strap—a s. of cloth edged with gold lace and bearing certain insignia, indicating rank, etc., worn by commissioned officers in the army and navy. See Regulations for specific information.
Shoulder strap—see Tourist s.
Shovel hat—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with a plain flat brim which is longer in front and behind than at the sides and droops slightly; worn by Roman and Anglican clerics, the latter much modified; the name derived from its appearance.
Show card—a window sign; a study in still li—es.
Show off—an inborn predilection for displaying new clothes, jewels, accomplishments, etc.
Show window—a place where goods are displayed, to be damaged by the sun, for the purpose of supplying occasions for reduced prices in “bargain sales”.
Shower coat—a raincoat.
Shrink—general term for (1) the process of reducing or contracting the length and width of fabrics by means of steam, cold water, etc., so that when fashioned into or used as part of any garment or article of apparel, there will be no further appreciable loss; also called sponging (see Sponge); (2) to lose in size in laundering or use; (3) to contract any particular spot or portion of a garment or article of apparel, for purposes of shapeliness, fit or style, by means of a hot iron and water.
Shroud—the last garment we wear; one that the wearer never hurries the maker to complete.
Shushine—proprietary name for a preparation for polishing shoes.
Siberian dog—the fur of a species of dog or wolf found in Siberia; resembles that of a fox in texture. Used for coats, caps, etc.
Sicilian—a plain-woven mohair fabric. See Mohair.
Side-body—tailor’s term for a part of a frock coat, stopping at arm scye and at waist, connecting forepart with backpart.
Side-buckle trousers—t. buckled at each side of the waist instead of behind, the straps and buckle being smaller than on back-buckled trousers.
Side edge—a sort of ornamental welt, placket or rever inserted into the plait seam of the (skirt-) back of skirted uniform and livery coats, variously shaped but usually contrived with 3 points, upon each of which a button is set.
Side leather—a shoemaking term applied to upper leathers made from cow hides which have been split down the backbone, a whole hide making two sides when so split; a term distinguishing certain class of upper l. as compared with calf l.
Side of neck—old name for shoulder point (qv).
Side pocket—the principal trousers p. with opening thru the side seam of trousers. Compare Top p.
Side pocket—a curious name given to a drinking saloon in an out-of-the-way place; a resort for thieves.
Side prick stitch—same as prick s. (qv)—so called from the way the s. is placed. See also Pricking back s.
Side stitch—made similarly to the prick s., the stitches, however, being laid just at the side of where the needle came thru. Employed for especial neatness and firmness.
Side tabs—trade term for standing shirt collars with small flaps on each side, beneath which the scarf is held and prevented from “riding”.
Sideburns—vernacular for short side whiskers.
Signet ring—see Seal r.
Silesia—a light, stout, closely woven, fine twilled, calendered cotton material used for linings.
Silesia seam—a strong s. finish employed in making garments of fabrics that are liable to slip or pull apart or that have little strength, specifically a strip of silesia laid under a seam and stitcht to same on both sides.
Silk—too exhaustiv for this book; you know what it is, or ought to, for it has been used since 3400 B. C. See encyclopedia for lengthy treatise.
Silk beaver—see Beaver.
Silk braid—a fine, firm tape or b. used by tailors for binding edges of garments, etc., woven fairly close but flexible, of various widths, denominated “lignes”, and also, according to purposes for which designed, known as flat b., half-and-half-b., trouser-b., etc.
Silk braid button—a b. made on a wooden or metal mold covered with silk braid, used on dress coats, waistcoats and overcoats.
Silk hat—an uncomfortable piece of aristocratic (?) headgear having the faculty of elongating the tall and stunting the short, and a style of headdress perennially threatened with retirement, but which seems to be quite as cheerfuly ineradicable as dandelions in a grass plot.
Silk-mixt—wool, cotton, linen, etc., intermixt with silk in the yarn.
Silk mixtures—trade name for worsted and woolen cloths, having decorativ threads of silk intersperst in the weaving, or woven partly of yarns in which the silk threads are twisted.
Silk-plated—a s. face on a cotton or wool body, as silk-p. hosiery.
Silk stick—a piece of wood about 2½ × 12 inches, partly covered with cloth, used by tailors for holding sewing silk in such a way that it may readily be drawn out, a needleful at a time, without snarling.
Silk stocking—epithet applied to aristocrats unexpectedly meddling in politics or other affairs that do not ordinarily concern them.
Silk tests—see Elasticity t., Flame t., Pure dye t., Weighted s. t., Cotton t., etc.
Silker—Briticism for silk hat.
Silkopolis—Paterson, N. J., where most of the domestic silk goods are manufactured.
Silkworm—bombyx mori, attacus ricini, attacus cynthia, telea polyphemus, et al.—all of which probably tells you little more than you know. Encyclopedias are good investments—get one.
Silvalin—a yarn or weaving material spun from a sort of paper obtained from wood, manufactured in Southern Germany. Probably an incorrect spelling of Xylolin (qv).
Silver fox—the most valuable of all fox furs. Single skins are often sold as high as $500.
Silver gilt—(1) gilded silver; (2) spurious gilding of s. by means of a yellow lacquer.
Silver headed—getting along in years.
Silver plated—baser metal coated or plated with s.
Silver stick—same as gold s.
Silver top—jocular for a gray haired person.
Simitar—see Scimitar.
Simulated cuff—in tailoring, a welt, plait or other imitation of a turned back c., on a coat sleeve.
Singeing—the process of removing nap from the surface of fabrics by means of heat or flame.
Single-breasted—fastened with a single row of buttons or other fastening and having but one thickness or leaf of the garment or fabric at the breast. Compare Double-breasted.
Single-breasted cutaway—see C. frock coat and Frock coat.
Single-breasted frock coat—(1) a f. c. made with full straight hanging skirts and unspliced foreparts; a “s. b. Prince Albert”; (2) a cutaway f. c. See Frock c.
Single-breasted Prince Albert—(a misnomer, the “Prince Albert”, so-called, being strictly a double-breasted frock); except for a single row of buttons, of the same general style as the double-breasted or P. A. frock.
Single-breasted sack coat—see Sack c.
Single crepe—a black silk c., less crinkly and softer than double c. (qv); used for light mourning. See Crepe.
Single cuff—(1) an imitation coat sleeve c.; (2) an unfolded shirt c. Compare Double c.
Single soled—having but one sole; cheap; poor.
Single-stitcht—tailor’s term for an edge finish obtained by stitching on machine at a stated distance from the actual edge (as “1–16 in. s. s.”) the edges having first been joined and turned.
Single-stitcht seam—see Cord s.
Single warp—a term used (1) in reference to yarns, meaning that the warp threads are single and not two or more ply; also (2) in connection with fabric construction indicating a single system of warp threads with, say, a double system of weft or filling threads.
Singles—reeled filaments of raw silk twisted for firmness but not doubled.
Singlestick—a light ash rod or stick, used as a substitute for the sword in fencing exercises.
Singlet—(1) an aboriginal waistcloth; (2) an undershirt; (3) an unlined waistcoat similar to a doublet.
Sir Knight’s coat—(Masonic) a single-breasted frock c. of black cloth, with standing military collar, the front closing with 11 buttons. Compare Commander’s c. and Fatigue blouse.
Sissy—opposit of tomboy.
Size—a unit of measurement.
Size—to size up; to form an opinion concerning a person or thing, the equivalent of to take one’s measure.
Size stick—a shoe dealer’s foot measure.
Size strap—a foot measuring tape used by shoe dealers.
Size ticket—a small, square paper ticket with a big size number sewed or pinned to the tail of a coat—which the customer sometimes is allowed to wear away to show that he is a readymade man.
Sizes—trade term for an assortment or range of sizes and shapes.
Sizes—in the readymade clothing trade garments are classified as regular, long, stout, slim, short-stout, corpulent, extra stout, long-stout, long-slim, etc., indicating normal proportions and variations thereof; all of which see.
Sizing—(1) the process of strengthening warp yarns by means of a gummy preparation to enable them to withstand the weaving process without chafing or breaking; (2) a finishing operation, similarly achieved, applied to certain grades of cotton, linen or silk fabrics for purposes of fictitious weight and appearance. See Glaze and Washable.
Sizing—a process in hat manufacture where the hat, still in the large cone as delivered from the forming department, is carefully shrunken by continual rolling, sqeezing, dipping in hot water, etc., until reduced or fitted to its proper size, but still retaining the cone shape.
Sizy—overloaded with dressing.
Skating cap—(1) a knitted toque; (2) a turban c. of fur or cloth.
Skating jacket—a short, snug-fitting coat.
Skating shoe—a soft, flexible s. of less than regular hight.
Skean dhu—a Scottish highlander’s knife, worn in the stocking when in clan costume.
Skees—bed slats with footholds affording first-rate amusement to those fond of pitching head-first into snow banks.
Skein—a certain quantity of yarn or thread, wound, doubled and knotted. Compare Hank.
Skein dyes—trade term for fabrics dyed in the yarn before weaving. Compare Piece d., Ingrain d., Slub d., etc.
Skeleton—term applied to a coat made without lining.
Skeleton suit—a close-fitting s. of clothes, the jacket or vest having a series of buttons at the waist to which the trousers are attacht.
Ski—see Skees.
Skilts—a kind of short trousers worn by boys and farmhands in Colonial times; they reacht to just below the knee, were very broad in the legs, but fitted snugly at the waist, needing no brace to support them.
Skimpt—done in a superficial or careless way. (Skimped.)
Skin (to)—trade term for leather with grain so tender that it peels or barks easily.
Skin wool—see Pulled w.
Skinner’s—trade diminutiv for the general line of silk goods, especially lining silks and satins, made by Wm. Skinner Mfg. Co.
Skins—trade term for the hides of small animals, as sheep, goat, deer, etc., and for the lighter forms of leather. Compare Hides.
Skirt—the lower or hanging part of a coat, shirt, etc.; a peplum.
Skirt pocket—any p. made in the skirts or tail-part of a coat.
Skirt strap—a narrow band-like piece sewn to the waist seam of an evening dress coat, extending from the skirt (of which it is usually an integral part) to the front fore-edge.
Skirted—a term applied to certain wool fleeces imported into the U. S. from which the head, belly and breech wool (inferior parts) have been removed, to avoid full effect of the tariff.
Skirty—said of a coat with very full drapery.
Skive—in shoemaking, the process of shaving or paring leathers for joints, etc.
Skiver—(1) split leather; (2) a workman who burls edges of leather; (3) a machine for cutting counters and rands.
Skull cap—a light c., without peak or brim; closely fitting the skull.
Sky piece—slang for hat.
Slanting pocket—a p. placed at an angle.
Slash—a strip of tape, lace, braid, etc., worn on a non-commissioned officer’s sleeve to distinguish him from a private.
Slash pocket—see Slit p.
Slasher—a machine for sizing and finishing warp yarn.
Slasht—said of a garment as a doublet, having many decorativ slits underlaid or puft with fabric of different color. (Slashed.)
Slater’s—general term for standard flannels, uniform cloths, etc., made by S. Slater & Sons, Webster, Mass.
Sleeping bag—a large b.-like receptacle used at night by explorers, prospectors, campers, etc., usually of sheepskin with the wool on, waterproof duck, blanketing, etc., sometimes in combination with an air mattress, the individual creeping into it for warmth.
Sleeping stockings—see Bed socks.
Sleeping suit—a loose fitting, one-piece, sleeping garment, usually of canton flannel, or flannel, so fashioned as to cover the entire body except head and hands.
Sleeve—that part of a coat, or shirt, or other garment, covering the arm.
Sleeve buttons—in coat making, usually the same size as the waistcoat b. tho fashion is fickle.
Sleeve head—tailor’s term for that part of a s. where a join is made with the shoulder; if slightly puft or fulled on it is called full-headed (qv).
Sleeve head seam—juncture of s. and body; the scye.
Sleeve holder—a device for holding up or shortening one’s shirt sleeves to allow of freedom for forearm and protect the s. from undue soiling or injury.
Sleeve lining—(1) a fine quality of silesia with a lustrous face printed in fancy patterns, or with silk stripes, or both; (2) a fine quality of cambric similarly illuminated; (3) a light, thin silk.
Sleeve protector—see Oversleeve.
Sleeve ticket—a paper or paper-faced cotton-back ticket attacht to readymade coat sleeves having lot number, size and price marks printed thereon.
Slender—see Slim.
Slick up—to get drest.
Slicker—a waterproof overcoat; an oilskin.
Slide—see String out.
Sliders—overalls; term obsolete.
Sliding pads—adjustable articles worn by base-stealers as protection when making grand stand plays.
Slim—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit slenderly built persons with waists of less than normal measure. Compare Long-slim.
Slimsy—slightly made; frail in build; flimsy in texture.
Sling—(1) a suspensory band for supporting an injured arm or leg; (2) an elementary article of apparel among savages; (3) a strap by means of which a rifle may be slung on the shoulders.
Sling strap—an attachment to a sword belt to which the scabbard is attacht.
Slinks—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn calves from parturient cows purposely slaughtered.
Slip—an infant’s dress.
Slip—see String out.
Slip collar—a detachable c.
Slip-on—(1) a loose single-breasted sack overcoat, made without side seams; usually of waterproof material; (2) a raincoat; (3) a waterproof overcoat with skirts ample enough to cover saddle and legs.
Slip-over—a loose overcoat. Same as Slip-on.
Slip sole—a thin piece of sole leather placed between the outer s. and inner s. of a shoe to make the finisht edge of the bottom thicker.
Slip stitch—a s. slipt over the next succeeding s. without catching or knitting. See Drop-s.
Slipper—a low, light shoe, for indoor wear, into which (or out of which) the foot is easily slipt, fraught with boyish reminiscences.
Slipper—a workman who removes the newly formed hat body from the cone. See Coning, Slipping, etc.
Slipping—in hat making, the act of removing the body of a hat from the cone.
Slipshod—down at the heel.
Slit pocket—any p. without welt or flap. See Welt p., Flapt p., Jetted p., Raincoat p., etc.
Slit welt—the felled or hemmed opening in the palm of a glove.
Sliver—a soft, continuous rope or strand of wool, cotton or silk fibers, as obtained in the carding and combing processes.
Slob—one who is untidy or slovenly in his personal appearance.
Sloonly—badly attired; slovenly drest.
Slop shop—(English) a shop where sailor’s readymade clothes, small wares, etc., are sold.
Slope of shoulder measure—tailor’s term for (1) the upper or strap measurement (qv) as taken by the long m. system and (2) the depth of scye m. as taken by the short m. system. See Over-shoulder m.
Slops—English for readymade clothing of the cheaper grades and workingmen’s jeans; up to and including the year 1903 exports of clothing from the United Kingdom were officially classified as “apparel and slops”. In 16th century, a term applied promiscuously to all garments easily adjusted and imaginably ungainly, neglige or slipshoddy. The word itself is derived from “slip”.
Slouch hat—any soft felt h.; especially a fedora or alpine h.
Slub—see Slubbing.
Slub dyed—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns dyed while still in the slub state. See Slubbing. Compare Skein d. and Piece d.
Slubbing—a slightly twisted or badly twisted roll of wool; also called slub and slubber.
Slubbing machine—a machine for drawing out and slightly twisting carded wool; now superseded by improved devices attacht to wool-cards.
Slug—an iron for heating hollow hat irons.
Slug lugger—the youngster who carries the hot iron slug used for heating hatter’s irons.
Slugging—a process in shoemaking performed by a s. machine which drives in round the edges of the surface of the finisht heel rows of brass or iron nails called slugs. A wire is put thru the machine and this wire is automatically driven into the leather and cut off, having the effect of leaving in the leather brass or iron nails.
Slumber robe—undertaker’s euphemism for shroud.
Small—tailor’s term for the hollow of the back at waistline (small-of-the-back).
Small arms—fire arms, carried in the hand, and fired from the hand or shoulder.
Small-falls—see Narrow f. and Front-f.
Smalls—close-fitting knee breeches.
Smart—a dandy of 1760 or thereabout.
Smart set—that element of our social organization that assumes to be better drest, better mannered, better financed and better in various other ways (not including morality) than the rest of us.
Smock—a large apron covering the person, such as is worn by butchers.
Smock frock—a yoked blouse or loose shirt of coarse linen or cotton, worn by field laborers (in Europe) over other clothes.
Smock linen—a coarse, linen material for smocks.
Smoke helmet—a protectiv head covering, similar to a diver’s h., worn by firemen and supplied with air from a comprest air receiver carried on the back.
Smoked pearl—dark, cloudy.
Smoked spectacles—s. with lenses of smoked glass.
Smoking cap—broadly, any c. worn indoors while smoking, more specifically, a fancy velvet, silk or cloth c. similar to a fez (qv).
Smoking jacket—any fancy coat for house (smoking) wear.
Smoothing iron—see Goose.
Smudge—to soil.
Smuggler—a dealer in contraband merchandise; an evader of customs duties; a fraudulent importer.
Smut—a soiled or dirty condition as of soot, coal dust, ink smears, etc.
Smutch—see Smudge.
Snack basket—a lunch b.
Snag—a broken tooth.
Snail back—see Wig.
Snail pearl—trade name for p. buttons, etc., in color, sometimes natural, but more often dyed, and usually dark blue or red.
Snakeskin garters—worn in 18th century “to ward off cramps in the legs”.
Snap brim—a hat b., flat structurally, tighter around the outer circumference so that it may be tilted up or down in front, back or sides; name probably from a snapping sound made in effecting the desired tilt.
Snap button—a self-locking b. for bachelors, widowers and men with negligent wives; especially useful when suspender buttons drop off.
Snaps—metal ball-and-socket clasps used on plackets, flies, gloves, etc.
Snarled—tangled.
Sneakers—slang for rubber soled shoes; rubber heels; overshoes.
Snide—base, imitation, undesirable, fraudulent.
Snip—an overdrest man; a coxcomb; a finical person.
Snipe collar—tailor’s term for a long and slender coat c.
Snob—an imaginary somebody; read Thackeray for elucidativ treatis.
Snob—a journeyman shoemaker; an old English usage which has well-nigh disappeared in the mother country, and is not much used in America, save in some parts of Massachusetts and Pennsylvania.
Snow—cant term for linen.
Snow goggles—see below.
Snow spectacles—(1) of various forms; commonly a slotted wood, celluloid or metal shield, contrived to permit vision while shutting off glare; (2) more loosely, smoked glass s.
Snow shoe—a sort of mammoth tennis racket affording easy means of suicide.
Snub nose—broad and tip-tilted.
Snuff box—a small b., often ornamental or costly, for snuff, carried in the pocket; in very general use in the days of the dandies—when may it not be revived?
Soap—a detergent—used for personal cleanliness, in the laundry, in wool preparation, mechanically, medicinally, and palaverously.
Soap box—a small b., usually fancy, of celluloid, metal or other material, used principally by travelers for carrying their personal cakes of s.
Soap-chalk—tailor’s marking c., compounded of pigment and soap or wax so as to disappear under a hot iron or by agency of benzine.
Soap shrunk—trade term relating to a process of contracting cloths and fabrics in soap and water, by which the maximum amount of shrinkage is obtained; the best process for heavy cotton goods, as duck, canvas, etc. Compare Steam s., Cold water s., etc.
Soap-stiff—tailor’s term for work, as of hems on the bottoms of trousers, stiffened with soap instead of, as is common (with cheaper work) with rubber tissue.
Soapstone—steatite or talc-rock, used as a marking-chalk on cloth.
Social full dress—(revenue cutter service) worn by commissioned officers on occasions of strictly social nature, conforming in material, cut, etc., to the evening dress of the navy, differing principally in that the coat has 5 buttons on each breast instead of 3.
Society—broadly, the intercourse of people of self asserted superiority, such as the new rich.
Society man—useless in business; good to sell clothes to.
Sock—(1) a knit or woven foot covering, having a leg shorter than that of a stocking, a term much less euphonious than hose; (2) the light shoe worn by comic actors in the Greek and Roman drama; (3) a warm insole; (4) a sandal or clog formerly worn by the Recollect friars.
Sock lining—a piece of felt, cloth or leather, placed on the inside of a shoe at the heel; used as a finishing method for covering up the ends of nails and tacks used for attaching the heels to the sole.
Sock stick—in a lumber camp, a pronged s. or tree branch on which the workmen hang their clothes near the fire.
Soft finishing—a process in hat manufacture whereby, after blocking and drying, soft hats are adjusted on wooden blocks, pounced and finisht smooth, ironed and trimmed to exact sizes of brim.
Soft front—a trade term for neglige shirts, more specifically those without plaits.
Soft prest—but lightly gone over with the iron; not creased. (Tailoring term.) Compare Hard p. (S. pressed.)
Soft roll—tailoring term, most commonly applied to lapels and coat fronts, meaning not made or prest hard or stiff, but workt to turn or handle freely; or lightly prest for same end.
Soie—French for silk.
Soie ondee—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.
Soiled—ready to be “marked down”.
Soisette—proprietary name for a mercerized cotton cloth used for pajamas, outing shirts, etc.
Solar tip—proprietary name for a make of children’s shoes having heavy sole leather protectiv t.
Sold out—trade term expressiv of being out of a certain line and unable to make further deliveries.
Sold up—trade term expressiv of being in a condition to accept no more orders for delivery or manufacture.
Soldiers’ uniforms—see the various descriptions of army u. under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.
Sole—the bottom or walked-on part of a shoe or stocking.
Sole scouring—one of the final processes in modern shoemaking, whereby all roughness of a s. is scoured off by holding against a machine having rolls covered with sandpaper. See Sandpapering.
Sole leather—thick, heavy cowhide or other l. used for soles.
Sole plate—same as Heel p.
Solid gold—24 carats pure.
Soliel—textil term for a shining, lustrous, finish on silk and woolen fabrics.
Solitaire—a ribbon of black silk tied loosely and worn around the neck, sometimes attacht to the bag of the wig and tuckt loosely into the front of the shirt (1760 or thereabout).
Solitaire—a diamond ring marking a great event in a young man’s life, afterward often becoming a commonplace happening in his relations with other men’s wives.
Sombrero—a broad-brimmed hat, usually of felt, common in Mexico and the Southwest; often lavishly ornamented with gold lace, etc.
Sonabitch—a small imperial or goatee (qv).
Sons of wax—humorous term for shoemakers.
Sorting—the first process in woolen manufacture; classifying the fibers of the fleece.
Sorting kersey—one of the old names for kersey (qv).
Sorts—trade term for sizes (qv), used specially when one is buying to fill in the range.
Sour—a chemical step or process in cotton and linen bleaching.
Soupled—in silk throwing, having the external gluey covering removed by heating in an acid bath.
Soutache braid—a narrow, roundish braid of the herringbone variety, of silk, mohair, tinsel, etc.; used decorativly.
South street—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s., N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap clothing.
Southern ties—laced low shoes, slightly higher than Oxfords, similar to the Blucher model, but with the tops beginning farther back toward the sides of the foot.
Sou’wester—a tarpaulin hat with a broad, drooping brim, especially so behind to protect the neck.
Sox—vulgar for half hose (qv).
Spaced front—trade term for folded shirt collars more or less cut away in f., meeting or not meeting at point of fold. Compare Meeting folder. Term also applied to straight standing collars having an opening or space in f.
Spanish cape—a semi-military c.
Spanish linen—a strong, plain woven fabric of l. warp and cotton filling, 27 inches wide. Said to be fast color, non-creasable and washable without mildew; of weight suitable for office coats, shirts, pajamas, etc.; formerly made entirely by hand, but nowadays by machinery.
Sparkler—diamond.
Sparrowtails—see Swallowtail.
Spat puttee—a p. legging covering the instep.
Spats—overgaiters.
Spatterdash—a sort of overgaiter or legging.
Special full dress—(army) see Evening d. uniform.
Special full dress—(navy) worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving the President, any foreign ruler or member of royal family; at special ceremonies or entertainments; at general muster on first Sunday of every month; receptions to ex-Presidents, to Vice President or Secretary of Navy. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—special f. d. coat, f. d. trousers, cockt hat; epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, white gloves, medals and badges; for the commissioned officers excepted above, and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as “full dress”; (marine corps) worn on the same or similar occasions. Consists of—for major general commandment: f. d. coat, special f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword, f. d. sword, belt and knot, epaulets, white standing collar, black shoes, white gloves (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for all officers of the line: a similar uniform except that chapeau and sash belong to the higher rank, and that f. d. trousers are worn; for staff officers: a uniform similar to that of the major general commandant excepting there is no sash and that shoulder knots and aigulets are worn instead of epaulets; for leaders and all members of the band (to be worn on occasions of indoor functions at which the band has to play, or other special occasions when ordered): special f. d. coat, special f. d. trousers, special f. d. cap, sword with f. d. sword knot and belt (leader only), shoulder knots (leader only), white gloves and black leather shoes.